Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Cleaned and shocked the tanks every year.  Its what we drank numerous times 
when Bermuda bound.  No ill effects from the water.

We now live aboard and drink tank water twice filtered.

Key is rotation.  Use it and fill it.

However took four water tests - 1) unfiltered, filtered once, filtered twice 
and bottled water.  The results were the same.



From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 2:36 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

Are you brave enough to drink water from your fresh water tanks or even cook 
food with it?  Filter or not it's good for washing dishes and showering. 
Quality potable in those tanks; if I was dying of thirst. Maybe. Take the 
filter out. Be careful of where you take on water and chlorinate

On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 12:59 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I mostly solved the mystery of my fresh water pump and wanted to update the 
discussion.  I got another identical Jabsco pump from Defender to replace the 
new one that was not shutting off and I was able to test the new one without 
removing the previous new one.  It did exactly the same thing which made me 
convinced the problem was elsewhere.  The hint came when I realized that air 
was getting into the system because the water coming out of the tap had 
frequent air gaps in flow.  I knew the problem was in the inflow because the 
pressure that the pump generated was maintained in the outflow system for many 
days.  I did not think the problem was in the tank lines since they were not 
leaking water.  The manifold also seemed fine.  My suspicion then centered on 
the filter between the manifold and the pump.  I pulled that out of the line 
and the pump pressurized and shut off quickly.  I am still not sure where the 
filter housing was leaking air but there is no obvious seal between the housing 
and the base.  Unlike the pump, that filter design has changed radically in 
what came with the new pump, so I suspect I am not the first to have problems 
with it.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D8D1D6.B882B550]


On Sep 9, 2022, at 2:52 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I have had new pump pressure switch failure occur shortly after installation.

Get Outlook for 
Android

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2022 12:06:47 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

And not to beat a dead horse, but as I mentioned B4, I had no luck with the 
t;ypical pumps available, and once I went with the Johnson, all my problems 
went away. Maybe they have a better designed check valve.

Bill Coleman

On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 3:07 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Good thoughts.  I can see in my tanks and there is not any significant amount 
of sludge.  I also have a strainer that was already in the line just before the 
pump.  The pump came with one, but I elected to leave the existing one in 
place.  I cleaned the filter and there was not much there.   Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT




On Sep 6, 2022, at 2:21 PM, Matthew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

If you have that much sludge, you may want to consider an in-line strainer.  I 
have one between my bilgewater intake and my diaphragm bilge pump, and I know 
I've saved the pump from a lot of crud.  My strainer is simple and looks like 
the product at the link below, but as I recall it was made by a company with a 
marine presence (like Forespar or Surflow).  Very easy to install and clean 
periodically.

1/2 Inches Water Pump Strainer, Compatible with 3/8 Inches Hose Barb In-Line 
Strainer Twist-On Pipe Sprayer Filter for Water Pump 12V DC 80 PSI RV Camper 
Marine Boat Lawn (1): Amazon.com: Industrial & 
Scientific

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2022 1:52 PM

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

This is not that kind of filter.  It is a wire screen for large particulates to 
protect the pump.  But in answer- I don’t drink or cook with the water from the 
tanks. Just used for washing and showering.  I gave up on trying to maintain 
tank water many years ago and keep liter bottles of water in the sink that I 
refill from home.  Our usage is not high.  I won’t even use the Yacht Club 
water because there is a large cluster of Parkinson’s Disease at the club and 
they are all people who grew up in New London.  No idea if it is the water, but 
not worth the risk.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 26, 2022, at 2:36 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Are you brave enough to drink water from your fresh water tanks or even cook 
> food with it?  Filter or not it's good for washing dishes and showering. 
> Quality potable in those tanks; if I was dying of thirst. Maybe. Take the 
> filter out. Be careful of where you take on water and chlorinate 
> 
> On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 12:59 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I mostly solved the mystery of my fresh water pump and wanted to update the 
> discussion.  I got another identical Jabsco pump from Defender to replace the 
> new one that was not shutting off and I was able to test the new one without 
> removing the previous new one.  It did exactly the same thing which made me 
> convinced the problem was elsewhere.  The hint came when I realized that air 
> was getting into the system because the water coming out of the tap had 
> frequent air gaps in flow.  I knew the problem was in the inflow because the 
> pressure that the pump generated was maintained in the outflow system for 
> many days.  I did not think the problem was in the tank lines since they were 
> not leaking water.  The manifold also seemed fine.  My suspicion then 
> centered on the filter between the manifold and the pump.  I pulled that out 
> of the line and the pump pressurized and shut off quickly.  I am still not 
> sure where the filter housing was leaking air but there is no obvious seal 
> between the housing and the base.  Unlike the pump, that filter design has 
> changed radically in what came with the new pump, so I suspect I am not the 
> first to have problems with it.  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 9, 2022, at 2:52 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> I have had new pump pressure switch failure occur shortly after installation.
>> 
>> Get Outlook for Android 
>> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List > >
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2022 12:06:47 PM
>> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>>  
>> And not to beat a dead horse, but as I mentioned B4, I had no luck with the 
>> t;ypical pumps available, and once I went with the Johnson, all my problems 
>> went away. Maybe they have a better designed check valve.
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> 
>> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 3:07 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Good thoughts.  I can see in my tanks and there is not any significant 
>> amount of sludge.  I also have a strainer that was already in the line just 
>> before the pump.  The pump came with one, but I elected to leave the 
>> existing one in place.  I cleaned the filter and there was not much there.   
>> Dave
>> 
>> David Knecht
>> Rear Commodore
>> Thames Yacht Club
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sep 6, 2022, at 2:21 PM, Matthew via CnC-List >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you have that much sludge, you may want to consider an in-line strainer. 
>>>  I have one between my bilgewater intake and my diaphragm bilge pump, and I 
>>> know I’ve saved the pump from a lot of crud.  My strainer is simple and 
>>> looks like the product at the link below, but as I recall it was made by a 
>>> company with a marine presence (like Forespar or Surflow).  Very easy to 
>>> install and clean periodically.
>>>  
>>> 1/2 Inches Water Pump Strainer, Compatible with 3/8 Inches Hose Barb 
>>> In-Line Strainer Twist-On Pipe Sprayer Filter for Water Pump 12V DC 80 PSI 
>>> RV Camper Marine Boat Lawn (1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List >> > 
>>> Sent: Tuesday, 

Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List]

I spoke with Yanmar about this issue a couple years ago.  The Yanmar tech sent 
me a screen shot of the service manual.  I can't figure out how to do a link 
here and can't past the screen shot, but this is the info:

Service Categories

Use an engine oil the meets or exceeds the following guidelines and 
classifications:

  *   API Service Categories CD, CF, CF-4, CI, and CI-4.
  *   SAE Viscosity: 10W-30, 15W-40.  Engine oil 10W-30 and 15W-40 can be used 
throughout the year.

NOTICE

  *   Be sure...
  *   Change the oil...
  *   Select the viscosity based on the ambient temperature where the engine is 
operated.  See the SAE Service Grade Viscosity Chart (Figure 5).
  *   Yanmar does not recommend the use of engine oil "additives".

The Yanmar tech did not think there was any benefit to using synthetic oil.

I use 15W-40 Rotella T4 in Michigan.  Ambient temps during my May through 
September sailing season are 50 degrees to 80 degrees.   Works fine, as far as 
I can tell.

Jeff Laman
81 C Harmony (3GM -- 20hp)
Ludington, MI


From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 4:15 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

Yes Rotella is good oil. I use in 5W-40 T6 synthetic my diesel truck and it 
would be good for your Yanmar but it's expensive.  For sailboat engines which 
hardly ever run in freezing temps SAE 30 would be fine. Basically all 
lubricating oils nowadays will do. In my Universal M4-30 I used 10w-40 or 
15w-40 no special name.

On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 5:05 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
My Yanmar 4JH3 calls for 15-40. I think most use this, Rotella.

Bill Coleman

On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 3:51 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is available, 
versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
Yanmar 2GM….  Thx.

Dave.

Sent from my iPhone
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

I use 10-30, which I think Yanmar recommends.  The Rotella works well.  I keep 
the level of oil at about 80% of full and I see very little smoke and don’t 
have to add oil between changes (once a season).
Pete W.
Siren Song 
C
Irvington, Va

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2022, at 3:51 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is 
> available, versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
> Yanmar 2GM….  Thx. 
> 
> Dave.   
> 
> Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Yes Rotella is good oil. I use in 5W-40 T6 synthetic my diesel truck and it
would be good for your Yanmar but it's expensive.  For sailboat engines
which hardly ever run in freezing temps SAE 30 would be fine. Basically all
lubricating oils nowadays will do. In my Universal M4-30 I used 10w-40 or
15w-40 no special name.

On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 5:05 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My Yanmar 4JH3 calls for 15-40. I think most use this, Rotella.
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 3:51 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is
>> available, versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
>> Yanmar 2GM….  Thx.
>>
>> Dave.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Merci!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2022, at 3:52 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> No. 
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 4:51 PM Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is 
>> available, versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
>> Yanmar 2GM….  Thx. 
>> 
>> Dave.   
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My Yanmar 4JH3 calls for 15-40. I think most use this, Rotella.

Bill Coleman

On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 3:51 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is
> available, versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
> Yanmar 2GM….  Thx.
>
> Dave.
>
> Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

No.

On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 4:51 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is
> available, versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
> Yanmar 2GM….  Thx.
>
> Dave.
>
> Sent from my iPhone

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is available, 
versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
Yanmar 2GM….  Thx. 

Dave.   

Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I’ve been following this thread a little bit, And I can’t help but wonder if 
the lead doesn’t creep a tiny bit over time.  There’s a lot of compression 
involved.  It wouldn’t take much to see a reduction in bolt torque.

Dave 33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2022, at 2:27 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> What do Mars Keels have to say?
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows
>  
> From: G Donald Wagner via CnC-List
> Sent: September 25, 2022 7:30 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com; G Donald Wagner
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>  
> I believe our C yachts use lead doped with  a percent of Antimony. The 
> Antimony adds strength, hardness, oxidation resistance,  and aids in the flow 
> for the casting process.
> It not like pure lead, and the properties are not the same. maybe we have 
> some metallurgists in the group, and they can comment ?
> 
> Don Wagner
> C 41 CB
> "Der Baron"
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
> Sent: Sun, Sep 25, 2022 2:32 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
> 
> I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep the 
> boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
>  
> From: Leeward Rail via CnC-List  
> Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Leeward Rail 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>  
> The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull 
> upwards slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to 
> contact MARSKEEL and get some pro info.
>  

Stus-List If anyone is in the market for a 35 mk1

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/london/c-c-35-mk1/1634427386

Shoot an email if you have any questions.

Cheers!
Jeff Helsdingen
Caposhi
C 35 mk1 #54

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Are you brave enough to drink water from your fresh water tanks or even
cook food with it?  Filter or not it's good for washing dishes and
showering. Quality potable in those tanks; if I was dying of thirst. Maybe.
Take the filter out. Be careful of where you take on water and chlorinate

On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 12:59 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I mostly solved the mystery of my fresh water pump and wanted to update
> the discussion.  I got another identical Jabsco pump from Defender to
> replace the new one that was not shutting off and I was able to test the
> new one without removing the previous new one.  It did exactly the same
> thing which made me convinced the problem was elsewhere.  The hint came
> when I realized that air was getting into the system because the water
> coming out of the tap had frequent air gaps in flow.  I knew the problem
> was in the inflow because the pressure that the pump generated was
> maintained in the outflow system for many days.  I did not think the
> problem was in the tank lines since they were not leaking water.  The
> manifold also seemed fine.  My suspicion then centered on the filter
> between the manifold and the pump.  I pulled that out of the line and the
> pump pressurized and shut off quickly.  I am still not sure where the
> filter housing was leaking air but there is no obvious seal between the
> housing and the base.  Unlike the pump, that filter design has changed
> radically in what came with the new pump, so I suspect I am not the first
> to have problems with it.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Sep 9, 2022, at 2:52 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have had new pump pressure switch failure occur shortly after
> installation.
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> --
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 6, 2022 12:06:47 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>
> And not to beat a dead horse, but as I mentioned B4, I had no luck with
> the t;ypical pumps available, and once I went with the Johnson, all my
> problems went away. Maybe they have a better designed check valve.
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 3:07 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Good thoughts.  I can see in my tanks and there is not any significant
> amount of sludge.  I also have a strainer that was already in the line just
> before the pump.  The pump came with one, but I elected to leave the
> existing one in place.  I cleaned the filter and there was not much there.
>   Dave
>
> David Knecht
> Rear Commodore
> Thames Yacht Club
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> On Sep 6, 2022, at 2:21 PM, Matthew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> If you have that much sludge, you may want to consider an in-line
> strainer.  I have one between my bilgewater intake and my diaphragm bilge
> pump, and I know I’ve saved the pump from a lot of crud.  My strainer is
> simple and looks like the product at the link below, but as I recall it was
> made by a company with a marine presence (like Forespar or Surflow).  Very
> easy to install and clean periodically.
>
> 1/2 Inches Water Pump Strainer, Compatible with 3/8 Inches Hose Barb
> In-Line Strainer Twist-On Pipe Sprayer Filter for Water Pump 12V DC 80 PSI
> RV Camper Marine Boat Lawn (1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
> 
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 06, 2022 1:52 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>
> Maybe you have a lot of sludge in your tank, I often put a hose on the far
> end of my water system and run a couple tanks out into the slip to clean it
> up.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 1:17 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> It looks like the pump version was not the problem.  I will confirm
> tomorrow, but according to Defender, I did indeed purchase the pressure
> limited version of the pump.  I don’t think they even sell the non-pressure
> limited version.  The response I got from Jabsco/Xylem customer support
> said to do this:
>
> The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do
> is too clean it. Take the six screws out they would are Long then Short in
> size; the pump will come part in two pieces the motor and lower 

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

What do Mars Keels have to say?

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: G Donald Wagner via CnC-List
Sent: September 25, 2022 7:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com; G Donald 
Wagner
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

I believe our C yachts use lead doped with  a percent of Antimony. The 
Antimony adds strength, hardness, oxidation resistance,  and aids in the flow 
for the casting process.
It not like pure lead, and the properties are not the same. maybe we have some 
metallurgists in the group, and they can comment ?

Don Wagner
C 41 CB
"Der Baron"
-Original Message-
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Sent: Sun, Sep 25, 2022 2:32 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep the 
boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA



From: Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Leeward Rail 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull upwards 
slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to contact 
MARSKEEL and get some pro info.

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Pretty much as Dennis says, the fiberglass probably does compress a little.
The fact is, that they do get loose as we all know. However that happens,
they need to be kept quite snug. If you can imagine, having loose bolts and
you tip your boat over 50° and imagine that lever flopping back and forth,
compressing on a few inches of your glass stub.. it's one hell of a lever.
In one of my recent posts on this, I mentioned something from the Tartan
list on the subject. On there I saw a post from a friend of mine, who said
you should never tighten your keel bolts.  It was all I could do to not
jump in there and say something, but amazingly, I refrained. But the fact
is, if you tighten your keekbolts to the required torque, and they don't
turn then everything is hunky-dory. What's wrong with that?  If they do
turn, then you know you had a problem. I don't understand how that could
not be self-evident. But having said that, the keel should be so tight that
it is a completely solid part of the boat, with absolutely no movement. The
first time you see a check mark on your new boats keel, you know too late
it probably should have been tightened, (unless you had a hell of a
grounding)  Not tightening your bolts is like pouring a concrete driveway,
and not putting saw cuts in it because you didn't see crack the next day.
You know sooner or later you're going to get cracks. So you'd  better
prepare for them..


Bill Coleman

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 11:41 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A quick update:
>
> Pretty much every nut needed tightening. I can’t recall exactly when I did
> it last, but it was probably at least 5-10 years ago. Water that was
> getting in the bilge is no longer getting in 
>
> This raises a question: I cannot imagine that these nuts are backing off,
> so why is this a maintenance thing? I would think they would stay once set?
>
> * next time I am using a torque multiplier, my arms are still sore!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I mostly solved the mystery of my fresh water pump and wanted to update the 
discussion.  I got another identical Jabsco pump from Defender to replace the 
new one that was not shutting off and I was able to test the new one without 
removing the previous new one.  It did exactly the same thing which made me 
convinced the problem was elsewhere.  The hint came when I realized that air 
was getting into the system because the water coming out of the tap had 
frequent air gaps in flow.  I knew the problem was in the inflow because the 
pressure that the pump generated was maintained in the outflow system for many 
days.  I did not think the problem was in the tank lines since they were not 
leaking water.  The manifold also seemed fine.  My suspicion then centered on 
the filter between the manifold and the pump.  I pulled that out of the line 
and the pump pressurized and shut off quickly.  I am still not sure where the 
filter housing was leaking air but there is no obvious seal between the housing 
and the base.  Unlike the pump, that filter design has changed radically in 
what came with the new pump, so I suspect I am not the first to have problems 
with it.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 9, 2022, at 2:52 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have had new pump pressure switch failure occur shortly after installation.
> 
> Get Outlook for Android 
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2022 12:06:47 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>  
> And not to beat a dead horse, but as I mentioned B4, I had no luck with the 
> t;ypical pumps available, and once I went with the Johnson, all my problems 
> went away. Maybe they have a better designed check valve.
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 3:07 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Good thoughts.  I can see in my tanks and there is not any significant amount 
> of sludge.  I also have a strainer that was already in the line just before 
> the pump.  The pump came with one, but I elected to leave the existing one in 
> place.  I cleaned the filter and there was not much there.   Dave
> 
> David Knecht
> Rear Commodore
> Thames Yacht Club
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 6, 2022, at 2:21 PM, Matthew via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> If you have that much sludge, you may want to consider an in-line strainer.  
>> I have one between my bilgewater intake and my diaphragm bilge pump, and I 
>> know I’ve saved the pump from a lot of crud.  My strainer is simple and 
>> looks like the product at the link below, but as I recall it was made by a 
>> company with a marine presence (like Forespar or Surflow).  Very easy to 
>> install and clean periodically.
>>  
>> 1/2 Inches Water Pump Strainer, Compatible with 3/8 Inches Hose Barb In-Line 
>> Strainer Twist-On Pipe Sprayer Filter for Water Pump 12V DC 80 PSI RV Camper 
>> Marine Boat Lawn (1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific 
>> 
>>  
>> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List > > 
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2022 1:52 PM
>> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>>  
>> Maybe you have a lot of sludge in your tank, I often put a hose on the far 
>> end of my water system and run a couple tanks out into the slip to clean it 
>> up.
>>  
>> Bill Coleman
>> Entrada, Erie PA
>>  
>> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 1:17 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> It looks like the pump version was not the problem.  I will confirm 
>>> tomorrow, but according to Defender, I did indeed purchase the pressure 
>>> limited version of the pump.  I don’t think they even sell the non-pressure 
>>> limited version.  The response I got from Jabsco/Xylem customer support 
>>> said to do this:
>>>  
>>> The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do is 
>>> too clean it. Take the six screws out they would are Long then Short in 
>>> size; the pump will come part in two pieces the motor and lower housing as 
>>> one piece and the pump head; once you spread the two pieces apart the check 
>>> valve will usually fall out by itself. The check valve looks like a 
>>> triangle with suction cups in each corner on one side and the other side 
>>> theirs a rubber diaphragm 

Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Good to hear. It seems it was much worse further North (Cape Breton and NL).


From: dwight veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 6:21 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)

OK here for us in St. Margaret's Bay communities.  A mess of limbs and downed 
trees to clean up but people all good near by. Lost power for a few hours here 
and some nearby neighbours still no power.  Many people in NS still no 
electricity and some gas stations in Halifax ran out of fuel and lineups at Tim 
Hortons pretty long. I have a little Honda 2000i generator which allowed us to 
serve coffee and muffins to neighbours morning after the storm.

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 10:32 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Dwight,

How did you survive the visit from Fiona? I hope you and your close ones are ok.

Marek
Ottawa ON


Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 2022-09-25 17:21 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: dwight veinot mailto:dwight...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

I think if you had water ingress and sloved the issue by tightening the nuts on 
your keel bolts then getting good effect from the bedding compound used was the 
problem. Anybody know what bedding compound was used on build.

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 3:32 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep the 
boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA



From: Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Leeward Rail mailto:leeward_r...@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull upwards 
slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to contact 
MARSKEEL and get some pro info.
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

OK here for us in St. Margaret's Bay communities.  A mess of limbs and
downed trees to clean up but people all good near by. Lost power for a few
hours here and some nearby neighbours still no power.  Many people in NS
still no electricity and some gas stations in Halifax ran out of fuel and
lineups at Tim Hortons pretty long. I have a little Honda 2000i generator
which allowed us to serve coffee and muffins to neighbours morning after
the storm.

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 10:32 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Dwight,
>
> How did you survive the visit from Fiona? I hope you and your close ones
> are ok.
>
> Marek
> Ottawa ON
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> Date: 2022-09-25 17:21 (GMT-05:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: dwight veinot 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
> I think if you had water ingress and sloved the issue by tightening the
> nuts on your keel bolts then getting good effect from the bedding compound
> used was the problem. Anybody know what bedding compound was used on build.
>
> On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 3:32 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep
>> the boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Leeward Rail 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>>
>>
>>
>> The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull
>> upwards slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to
>> contact MARSKEEL and get some pro info.
>>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile