Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If
it's attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid
and have a new lens put in, and put new gasket in?

Bill Coleman

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List 
wrote:

> After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it
> is bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?
>
>
>
> John Read
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Yeah, that's a nothing burger. Just take it too someone who can weld
aluminum properly. I've done that a couple times with my own.

Bill Coleman

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 03:38 Macdara Vallely via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
> Anyone got any experience replacing spreader on an  80s C?
> I have a 1982 C 32 cb.  The crack in the picture is on the SB spreader 
> leading
> edge.
>
> Here is a link to a photo of the damaged section
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PqaaEQj_VdWYvkdtyLgIO11Gto9svM9J
>
>
> I want to replace but don’t know where to source the part.
> In the meantime, would it be worth trying to throughbolt or rivet plates
> top and bottom to increase strength?  Or would the necessary holes
> compromise further?
> All advice much appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Macdara
> NYC
> --
> Macdara
>

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My 1973 39 came with a 13 foot boom, but the original drawings were for a
15' boom, which actually looked more balanced. When I replaced the boom, I
made it 14', with a large roach. Cost me 6 Seconds, and was probably worth
12!

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Thu, Nov 3, 2022 at 4:32 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I thought the shorter boom was due to designers placing the mast further
> back to get a large J measurement so 150% genoas were bigger.  More sail
> area overall.
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 11/03/2022 2:16 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> I believe that large mainsails were penalized under IOR at that time so
> huge foretriangles became popular and also very large overlapping genoas.
>
>
>
> If I am not mistaken IMS and other rules that followed IOR were more based
> on performance than design and allowed larger main sails to come back and
> resulted in smaller more easily managed headsails
>
>
>
> My conspiracy theory is that the deck sweeping 170% genoas were heavily
> influenced by insurance companies and boat yards that wanted more
> collisions and more work! 
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> HAlifax
>
>
>
> *From:* Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* November 3, 2022 3:04 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%
>
>
> That 170 seemed to be popular sport back in the day.  We had one for our
> 30-1 when I bought it and I noted that two other 30s at the lake had them
> also.
>
> PHRF killed that sail; the additional penalty was deemed too much.  Crew
> didn't mind tossing them away.  By the time we finally got it trimmed in,
> it was time to tack again.
>
> Ron
>
> Wild Cheri
>
> C 30-1
>
> STL
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, November 3, 2022, 11:22:32 AM CDT, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> That would likely sheet to the dinghy towed behind your 34
>
>
>
> There was a story behind the use of 170 genoas back in the day but I
> forget what it was
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Keel Bolt Questions

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

350 # appears correct. I never had a problem with galling, but having
worked with SS all my life, I know it is a real problem, one you don't want
there for sure. So If you are worried, I would put some penetrating oil
that is also lubricating on the bolts before removing.   When they are out,
clean them and use TefGel on the threads, and maybe only torque to 300#.
If you have Carbon steel washers, replace them with big, heavy SS washers,
or have some plates made. The 1 5/8" nuts sound like heavy duty nuts, nice.
If the pitting is bad, you might want to replace, if not, dip them in acid
to remove the corrosion.
I also had long bolts, I sawed the socket in half, and welded a piece of
tubing in to extend it.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Tue, Nov 1, 2022 at 3:51 PM James Hesketh via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My boat is a ’78 C 26. It’s a Florida boat and has spent all its life
> year round in salt water. I’ve had her for a few years now and I found the
> infamous “Smile” when I hauled out yesterday and have a few questions about
> re-torquing the bolts. After sanding in prep for paint I can see previous
> smiles have been repaired.
>
>
> 1) From the Keel Bolt Specification chart in the C Photo Album it shows
> the torque spec to be 350 Foot Pounds for the 1-inch bolts. Is Ft-Lbs
> correct or could that be Newton Metres?
>
>
> 2) I have three 1-inch bolts and one 1/2-inch bolt that is furthest aft.
> The Spec Chart lists a 1 1/2-inch nut for the 1-inch bolts. Mine are 1
> 5/8-inch. Does that mean these might not be original, or could C have
> sometimes used different size nuts?
>
>
> 3) All three of the 1 5/8-inch nuts have various stages of pitting, I’m
> assuming it's from electrolysis. The deepest pits appear to be about 1/8th
> inch deep. I’ll remove one nut and take it with me when searching for
> replacements to make sure I have the correct thread pattern. The question
> is: do I worry about the bolts themselves, or leave them be following the
> ignorance-is-bliss principle?
>
>
> 4) I once had a SS nut on a SS all-thread keel bolt gall when I was
> removing it — which caused all sorts of complications. I'm terrified of
> that happening here. Any tricks or suggestions to lessen the chance of that
> happening, especially since I suspect electrolysis issues? Also, I will
> need to cut about a 1/2- inch off the tops of two of the 1-inch bolts to
> get my deep socket onto the nuts (the bolts currently protrude 1 3/4-inch
> above the nuts. Will the heat from cutting through them contribute to or
> lessen the chances of galling?
>
> 5) When re-torquing should I use some sort of anti-seize or torque it dry?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim Hesketh
> C 26 - Whisper
> Miami, FL
>

Stus-List Re: Engine panel button/switch replacement

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I can sympathize with you Dave, which I will elaborate on. As far as your
situation, it seems like They should be eye terminals. Probably with an
elastic stopnut on the solenoid. In fact, I think nearly all terminals on
boats should be eyes and not spades due to the problem you just mentioned
of them slipping off.
Bringing a new to me boat home a few years ago, the first day out, the
secondary alternator charging the house batteries failed. I spent almost
every evening that we stopped rolling around in a hot engine room trying to
find the problem. Finally, halfway up the Hudson, I found an eye terminal
laying in the bottom of the bilge. I was able to find a wire that was
orphaned. Put a new terminal on it and voila! So, even having the eye
didn't save that situation. I suppose it needed a heavier eye, and probably
some form of stabilization of the wires due to vibration.
Anyways, glad you finally solved your problem. They can sure be
frustrating, especially in tight compartments!

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Sun, Oct 30, 2022, 09:58 David Knecht via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I think I fixed the starting problem yesterday and it is still at once
> mysterious and satisfying.   I started by carefully checking all the
> power circuits after having gone over my circuit diagrams of how everything
> should be connected.  All seemed correct on the panel and I had 12+ V at
> all contacts.  Pushed the start button and nothing.  I went to the engine
> to check the power at the starter solenoid and found the wire dangling from
> the solenoid spade fitting (impossible to see or get a hand in there).  I
> reattached the wire and tried again and the engine turned over and started
> right up.  In fact, it started quickly and easily.  So I think my primary
> problem is fixed and in the end, the engine works better than before, which
> is what I was hoping for.  I still don’t understand all the strange
> electrical issues I encountered along the way.  Maybe that wire was
> intermittently contacting the starter housing and maybe that created would
> have created a short.  I am not thrilled with the fact that a spade
> connector worked its way off over time.  Maybe a spade connector is not the
> right type of connection for something vibrating all the time with the
> engine running.  I don’t see a way to change the spade to something else
> unless someone has a suggestion.  I have not touched that area of the
> engine for several years so it was not something I did while installing the
> switches.  But the loose spade might explain why I has having intermittent
> starting issues.  I will likely replace the spade fitting on the wire this
> winter/spring, but it is a really hard thing to get to without removing
> either the starter or the alternator so will leave that job for later.
>  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Oct 20, 2022, at 1:37 PM, Carl Freeman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Occasionally you will get a push button that will not cooperate.  Worse
> case scenario grab the back of the switch with water pump pliers or vice
> grips and drill out the center of the switch. Start a little undersized as
> it is likely that the switch will break off.
>
> The push button will probably be able to be ripped off the switch with
> pliers allowing you access to the center.
>
> Good luck.
>
> COMP
> 1979 C 34
> Groton, CT
>
> On Thursday, October 20, 2022 at 11:46:20 AM EDT, David Knecht via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> I took the boot off and tried to loosen the collar on the outside, but no
> luck.  That is why I am not sure there isn't some hidden trick.  Sprayed it
> with PB Blaster and will try again next time I am on the boat.  It is
> possible that the PO put a different push button in, but I can't find
> anything like that one in the Cole Hersey catalog.  The other push button
> and the new ones all have boots that pop on. This one the boot seems more
> securely attached, which might be more weather resistant.  I think the
> outside collar actually trapped the rubber boot.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> On Oct 19, 2022, at 12:03 PM, Carl Freeman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi David,
>
> That back up nut on the backside will loosen it up if you can get at it.
> As an alternative you can cut the rubber boot off and grab the outside
> metal with a pair of vice grips or something similar. Sounds like it is no
> good anyway so tearing it up shouldn't be a problem.
>
> Regarding different switches, one may have been replaced in the past or
> have a different amperage rating than the other.
>
> Best,
>
> Carl
>
> On Wednesday, October 19, 2022 at 11:30:39 AM EDT, David Knecht via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal
> M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem.  I had bought a new Cole
> Hersee key switch and two push button switches for the replacement.  I was
> 

Stus-List Re: Navionics

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Do you have to pay an annual subscription to keep that feature working
every year?

Bill Coleman
Erie Pa

On Fri, Oct 28, 2022, 21:51 Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With Navionics that I use I can put in a final destination and have it
> plot a course using my boat configuration settings
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, October 28, 2022 8:57:48 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Rick Brass 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Navionics
>
>
> I think I understand it now. The red line is always shown and infinite
> length, and it is based on boat heading adjusted by current - or more
> probably recent - set and drift. If your destination or the next turn is
> off the edge of the display, you zoom out to bring it onto the screen and
> steer to keep the boat moving to that desired point. And I presume you
> reduce detail, depth markers, etc. when you zoom out.
>
>
>
> In the eastern NC area where I mostly sail, but also in Chesapeake Bay and
> along the ICW and coast going south, my target is usually in the 10 to 30
> NM range in front of me. With the plotter and IPad I usually scroll over to
> the target, tap the screen, and then select "Go To". That puts a line on
> the chart display from my starting point to the destination. Then I can
> scroll back (or press stop scrolling on the menu) to recenter on the boat
> and see the nearby detail (depths around here are frequently 10 feet or
> less, and the ICW has a lot of twists and turns), see the boat position and
> heading in relation to the course line on the chart, and make steering and
> trim adjustments accordingly.
>
>
>
> I wonder if the displays would work the same on Active Captain, my IPad
> that I use on deliveries, or my laptop had I chosen the Navionics charts
> instead of Bluecharts when I bought my Garmin chart plotter?
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Stus-List 
> Sent: Oct 28, 2022 2:24 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Navionics
>
>
>
> Thanks, Rick.  The red line is not a route.  The red line is always
> visible and shows your projected course an unlimited distance ahead.  If I
> change course, the red line changes as well.  It’s like an on-screen laser
> pointer.  You point the boat in the general direction and adjust steering
> until the red line goes to where you want to go.  That’s your course.  Miss
> Connie from Romper Room could navigate a boat this way.
>
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I would have to agree with Rick.  You can't go wrong with 3M.  Never used
their butyl, but I don't quibble all over the price of 3M, although it's
usually high. But at least you know you're going to get great results. I
just Had to buff out a large Curved windshield that looked like it had been
lightly sandblasted, and after digging through all sorts of compounds, I
finally found 3M glass polish.  80 bucks for a little bottle, but the
results were amazing. It did take an hour and a half, but still... Not
something you want to take a chance on.

Bill Coleman

On Tue, Oct 25, 2022, 20:27 Rick Brass via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I still have about a half a roll of 3M butyl tape purchased about 18 years
> ago at an auto supply house that caters to body shops. Long time ago, when
> I was in the car business working for GM, I learned that there were no
> higher quality alternatives to 3M products. So that has pretty much been my
> go-to source for adhesives and so forth. In the 18 years I’ve had Imzadi
> I’ve never had a leak or had any of the 3M tape squish out from under the
> hardware.
>
>
>
> Never tried Bed-It Butyl, though I know it to be highly regarded by those
> on the list. So I can’t compare it to what I’ve used. But 3M stuff is
> readily available and performs well in my experience.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
>
> la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2022 6:02 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source
>
>
>
> My feeling of the Bed-it-Butyl, is that it seems to kind of hold together.
>
> While the original or garden variety from the RV stores keeps moving,
> under head it seems like it will drip away, while the Bed-it seems to not
> move, more firm,  like it has invisible fibers in it. (it doesn't)
>
>
>
> Also, diesel will dissolve it, as well as 5200 and 4200.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 5:26 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.   I find
> it doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that other quality
> products don’t.it is very likely Rod found a good product he trusted,
> has had private labelled, and has done a good job of promoting it.  (Good
> for him)   Likely there is another brand out there with identical packaging
> etc….
>
>
>
> The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use that
> for any refit, knowing it will outlast me.
>
> Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?
>
> Dave 33-2 windstar
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it.
>
>
>
> Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List :
>
> I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for
> several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1
> 1/8" x 3/4”
>
> x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.
>
>
>
> Here is the link to Amazon:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
>
>
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
>
> 1981 C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl
> tape.  I have both and find them similar.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
>
> On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is
> sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently?
>
>
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My feeling of the Bed-it-Butyl, is that it seems to kind of hold together.
While the original or garden variety from the RV stores keeps moving, under
head it seems like it will drip away, while the Bed-it seems to not move,
more firm,  like it has invisible fibers in it. (it doesn't)

Also, diesel will dissolve it, as well as 5200 and 4200.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 5:26 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.   I find
> it doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that other quality
> products don’t.it is very likely Rod found a good product he trusted,
> has had private labelled, and has done a good job of promoting it.  (Good
> for him)   Likely there is another brand out there with identical packaging
> etc….
>
> The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use that
> for any refit, knowing it will outlast me.
> Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?
> Dave 33-2 windstar
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it.
>
> Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List :
>
> I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for
> several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1
> 1/8" x 3/4”
> x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.
>
> Here is the link to Amazon:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl
> tape.  I have both and find them similar.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
>
> On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is
> sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently?
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My Yanmar 4JH3 calls for 15-40. I think most use this, Rotella.

Bill Coleman

On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 3:51 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is
> available, versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
> Yanmar 2GM….  Thx.
>
> Dave.
>
> Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Pretty much as Dennis says, the fiberglass probably does compress a little.
The fact is, that they do get loose as we all know. However that happens,
they need to be kept quite snug. If you can imagine, having loose bolts and
you tip your boat over 50° and imagine that lever flopping back and forth,
compressing on a few inches of your glass stub.. it's one hell of a lever.
In one of my recent posts on this, I mentioned something from the Tartan
list on the subject. On there I saw a post from a friend of mine, who said
you should never tighten your keel bolts.  It was all I could do to not
jump in there and say something, but amazingly, I refrained. But the fact
is, if you tighten your keekbolts to the required torque, and they don't
turn then everything is hunky-dory. What's wrong with that?  If they do
turn, then you know you had a problem. I don't understand how that could
not be self-evident. But having said that, the keel should be so tight that
it is a completely solid part of the boat, with absolutely no movement. The
first time you see a check mark on your new boats keel, you know too late
it probably should have been tightened, (unless you had a hell of a
grounding)  Not tightening your bolts is like pouring a concrete driveway,
and not putting saw cuts in it because you didn't see crack the next day.
You know sooner or later you're going to get cracks. So you'd  better
prepare for them..


Bill Coleman

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 11:41 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A quick update:
>
> Pretty much every nut needed tightening. I can’t recall exactly when I did
> it last, but it was probably at least 5-10 years ago. Water that was
> getting in the bilge is no longer getting in 
>
> This raises a question: I cannot imagine that these nuts are backing off,
> so why is this a maintenance thing? I would think they would stay once set?
>
> * next time I am using a torque multiplier, my arms are still sore!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I wouldn't get your knickers in a twist, but whenever you go to check them
you could do it.
Where I would not want to wait is wherever you have SS screws in aluminum,
Because that is a constant chemical reaction!
I have even tried to Tef-gel some screws in carbon fiber, like the screws
holding the Eye for my mainsheet attachment, and they are stuck in there
for the duration!

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 12:02 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Would you recommend I Tef Gel the bolts this winter?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 13, 2022, at 11:43 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Nope.
> I can recall torquing on my 39, I have a 3/4" torque wrench with a 4 foot
> extension - I would have to put my left foot on the top of the socket
> extension, and my other foot on the bulkhead while pulling on the 4 foot
> extension, and that was hard. I eventually put Tef-Gel on the threads which
> allows you to use a little less torque. Stainless LOVES to gall on itself,
> and once a nut starts to lock up, you are screwed!  No Pun intended.
> This comment below is from the Tartan site.
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Keelbolt Torque 6/21/02
>
> Good morning [all]. It appears the [folks here] have been busy coming up
> with
> questions regarding our keel installations which have been surfacing
> ever since I've been monitoring the list. I hope the following will answer
> some of your questions:
>
> Tartan uses a "Live" joint to mate the keel to the hull.
>
> A live joint is a joint that is able to flex during thermal expansion and
> contraction as well as accommodate movement in the structure while
> normally loaded as well as those occasional abnormal loads (grounding).
>
> This installation has been in use since the early 1960's with great
> success.
> One of the great advantages of this installation is that tightening the
> keel bolts will not promote water intrusion.
>
> We use a two-part THIOKOL adhesive sealant between the keel to hull
> joint which creates a permanent gasket. As you know, gaskets
> are used elsewhere on your boat such as on the engine water pump.
>
> Tightening the bolts on gasketed seals does not promote leaks as long
> as the bolts are evenly torqued.
>
> Keel bolts should be torqued to the following specifications:
> 1" bolts should be maintained at 350 ft/lbs
> 3/4" bolts at 250 ft/lbs and
> 1/2" bolts at 180 ft lbs.
>
> Tartan no longer covers up the keel to hull joint with glass tape for
> cosmetic
> purposes. For the last several years we have been leaving the seam
> exposed and faired with a THIOKOL bead to eliminate the maintenance
> issues with glass tape. Some other manufacturers install their
> keels with an epoxy joint. We don't find this to be reliable since
> the lead will expand and contract at a different rate than the
> fiberglass. If the bolts become loose the joint will fail and there is no
> chance of tightening up the bolts to eliminate a leak. A sudden
> impact can also jar the joint enough to break the bond.
>
> There you have it. I hope I answered all the keel joint questions.
> George GuldenTartan
> Yachts
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 10:58 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I am using these numbers:
>>
>> http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm
>>
>> Are they wrong?
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Wyatt via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 13, 2022 10:52 AM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com; Wyatt 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>>
>>
>>
>> That’s too much torque? I’ve seen C specs based on nut size, and for my
>> 36-1 it was around 150 ft-lb
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 10:46 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I should have driven down and got it. 350 pounds is a LOT. My arms are
>> still sore!
>>
>> FYI – what you think is really tight with a normal extension is about 150
>> pounds, not 350. I have about 4 feet total to get to 350.
>>
>> If anyone needs to borrow the torque meter let me know.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Josh via CnC-Li

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Nope.
I can recall torquing on my 39, I have a 3/4" torque wrench with a 4 foot
extension - I would have to put my left foot on the top of the socket
extension, and my other foot on the bulkhead while pulling on the 4 foot
extension, and that was hard. I eventually put Tef-Gel on the threads which
allows you to use a little less torque. Stainless LOVES to gall on itself,
and once a nut starts to lock up, you are screwed!  No Pun intended.
This comment below is from the Tartan site.

Bill Coleman

Keelbolt Torque 6/21/02

Good morning [all]. It appears the [folks here] have been busy coming up
with
questions regarding our keel installations which have been surfacing
ever since I've been monitoring the list. I hope the following will answer
some of your questions:

Tartan uses a "Live" joint to mate the keel to the hull.

A live joint is a joint that is able to flex during thermal expansion and
contraction as well as accommodate movement in the structure while
normally loaded as well as those occasional abnormal loads (grounding).

This installation has been in use since the early 1960's with great
success.
One of the great advantages of this installation is that tightening the
keel bolts will not promote water intrusion.

We use a two-part THIOKOL adhesive sealant between the keel to hull
joint which creates a permanent gasket. As you know, gaskets
are used elsewhere on your boat such as on the engine water pump.

Tightening the bolts on gasketed seals does not promote leaks as long
as the bolts are evenly torqued.

Keel bolts should be torqued to the following specifications:
1" bolts should be maintained at 350 ft/lbs
3/4" bolts at 250 ft/lbs and
1/2" bolts at 180 ft lbs.

Tartan no longer covers up the keel to hull joint with glass tape for
cosmetic
purposes. For the last several years we have been leaving the seam
exposed and faired with a THIOKOL bead to eliminate the maintenance
issues with glass tape. Some other manufacturers install their
keels with an epoxy joint. We don't find this to be reliable since
the lead will expand and contract at a different rate than the
fiberglass. If the bolts become loose the joint will fail and there is no
chance of tightening up the bolts to eliminate a leak. A sudden
impact can also jar the joint enough to break the bond.

There you have it. I hope I answered all the keel joint questions.
George GuldenTartan
Yachts


On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 10:58 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am using these numbers:
>
> http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm
>
> Are they wrong?
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Wyatt via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 13, 2022 10:52 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com; Wyatt 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
>
>
> That’s too much torque? I’ve seen C specs based on nut size, and for my
> 36-1 it was around 150 ft-lb
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 10:46 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I should have driven down and got it. 350 pounds is a LOT. My arms are
> still sore!
>
> FYI – what you think is really tight with a normal extension is about 150
> pounds, not 350. I have about 4 feet total to get to 350.
>
> If anyone needs to borrow the torque meter let me know.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Josh via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, September 5, 2022 4:18 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Josh 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
>
>
> You can come borrow my torque multiplier.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6B0IPKQERc
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> Sep 5, 2022 14:09:28 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List :
>
> Those sizes are correct – thanks!
>
> I don’t have a torque wrench that big, so I have them “tight”. I just
> ordered this thing, so I can set them exactly:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW?psc=1=ATVPDKIKX0DER_=chk_typ_imgToDp
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
> *From:* Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 28, 2022 10:08 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com; Thomas Delaney 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
> Hi Joe,
>
> I believe it is 1 1/8" for the front-most nut and 1 1/2" for the rest.
>
> Best,
>
> Tom
>
>

Stus-List Re: anyone try this chafe guard?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I need 3 chafe guards, what I did was measure the radius it was going on
and bought some SS tubing to fit that radius.
Then cut it longitudinally in quarters and cleaned  the edges up, & buffed
it out. Going to stick it on with 5200,  Just another thought. I think for
the anchor, I will glue a piece of urethane where the chain rubs. Chain can
make a mess of SS.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Thu, Sep 8, 2022 at 12:11 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> https://www.nowearguard.com/
>
>
>
> It sure looks nice. I am tempted to use it on the bow where the anchor
> tends to hit the boat.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: C Steak Rub

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Look at the ingredients and make your own, using Iodized salt..
I had to get Iodized salt for my A-SALT fly shooter gun so it wouldn't gum
up.
Nothing like going to shoot a huge spider and have your rifle jam up!

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA,

On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 4:51 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Okay, so Stu doesn't sell a C brand steak rub.  I wanted to make it
> "list legal".  :)  List traffic has been light so here's a new thread.
>
> Although I'm usually happy with just Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper
> on my boat steaks, occasionally I like to amp up the flavor profile.
>
> I've tried a number of store bought steak rubs, McCormick, Weber, etc.
> Here in Louisiana the humidity causes them to set up into a lump when
> stored on the boat.  I even keep them in a plastic zipper bag.  One rub I
> use, Bolners Fiesta Hamburger Deluxe, stays loose and shakeable for
> whatever reason.
>
> Any suggestions on a steak rub that wouldn't clump up?
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

And not to beat a dead horse, but as I mentioned B4, I had no luck with the
t;ypical pumps available, and once I went with the Johnson, all my problems
went away. Maybe they have a better designed check valve.

Bill Coleman

On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 3:07 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good thoughts.  I can see in my tanks and there is not any significant
> amount of sludge.  I also have a strainer that was already in the line just
> before the pump.  The pump came with one, but I elected to leave the
> existing one in place.  I cleaned the filter and there was not much there.
>   Dave
>
> David Knecht
> Rear Commodore
> Thames Yacht Club
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> On Sep 6, 2022, at 2:21 PM, Matthew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> If you have that much sludge, you may want to consider an in-line
> strainer.  I have one between my bilgewater intake and my diaphragm bilge
> pump, and I know I’ve saved the pump from a lot of crud.  My strainer is
> simple and looks like the product at the link below, but as I recall it was
> made by a company with a marine presence (like Forespar or Surflow).  Very
> easy to install and clean periodically.
>
> 1/2 Inches Water Pump Strainer, Compatible with 3/8 Inches Hose Barb
> In-Line Strainer Twist-On Pipe Sprayer Filter for Water Pump 12V DC 80 PSI
> RV Camper Marine Boat Lawn (1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
> <https://www.amazon.com/Strainer-Twist-Sprayer-Filter-Camper/dp/B094NQNVMF/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=water+strainer+marine=1662487937=8-6>
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 06, 2022 1:52 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>
> Maybe you have a lot of sludge in your tank, I often put a hose on the far
> end of my water system and run a couple tanks out into the slip to clean it
> up.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 1:17 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> It looks like the pump version was not the problem.  I will confirm
> tomorrow, but according to Defender, I did indeed purchase the pressure
> limited version of the pump.  I don’t think they even sell the non-pressure
> limited version.  The response I got from Jabsco/Xylem customer support
> said to do this:
>
> The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do
> is too clean it. Take the six screws out they would are Long then Short in
> size; the pump will come part in two pieces the motor and lower housing as
> one piece and the pump head; once you spread the two pieces apart the check
> valve will usually fall out by itself. The check valve looks like a
> triangle with suction cups in each corner on one side and the other side
> theirs a rubber diaphragm in the center; that are machine press in(Take a
> picture of the check valve “Both Sides”). Take the check valve and place it
> in a bucket of warm water wait a couple of minutes. While the check valve
> is soaking; take the head where the suction and the discharge hose hookup
> and rotate and look inside. You will see a circle in the center a 1/8”
> edge; take a wet towel and wipe off that edge (Front, Back and Top Edge).
> Take the Check Valve when it’s submerged pick it up and slush it back and
> forth in the bucket of water for a couple of minutes (While Submerged).
> This should clear all the particles. Place the check valve back into the
> Head of the pump and put it back together. 90% of the time your pump will
> be back to normal.
>
> Seems excessive for a brand new pump but I guess I will have to try it.
> Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Maybe you have a lot of sludge in your tank, I often put a hose on the far
end of my water system and run a couple tanks out into the slip to clean it
up.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 1:17 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It looks like the pump version was not the problem.  I will confirm
> tomorrow, but according to Defender, I did indeed purchase the pressure
> limited version of the pump.  I don’t think they even sell the non-pressure
> limited version.  The response I got from Jabsco/Xylem customer support
> said to do this:
>
> The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do
> is too clean it. Take the six screws out they would are Long then Short in
> size; the pump will come part in two pieces the motor and lower housing as
> one piece and the pump head; once you spread the two pieces apart the check
> valve will usually fall out by itself. The check valve looks like a
> triangle with suction cups in each corner on one side and the other side
> theirs a rubber diaphragm in the center; that are machine press in(Take a
> picture of the check valve “Both Sides”). Take the check valve and place it
> in a bucket of warm water wait a couple of minutes. While the check valve
> is soaking; take the head where the suction and the discharge hose hookup
> and rotate and look inside. You will see a circle in the center a 1/8”
> edge; take a wet towel and wipe off that edge (Front, Back and Top Edge).
> Take the Check Valve when it’s submerged pick it up and slush it back and
> forth in the bucket of water for a couple of minutes (While Submerged).
> This should clear all the particles. Place the check valve back into the
> Head of the pump and put it back together. 90% of the time your pump will
> be back to normal.
>
> Seems excessive for a brand new pump but I guess I will have to try it.
> Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I had similar problems with jabsco and shurflo, after going with the
Johnson, no problems.
I wondered if it could be a check valve, leaking back to the tank.  Another
thing to look at is the orientation of the pump - make sure you follow
directions, I think the exit should be on top.  you want to make sure it
doesn't trap air in the chamber, and running continuously could be just
trying to pump air.

Bill Coleman
Erie PA

On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 10:40 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am back to working on the freshwater pump problem.  I replaced the old
> pump (unknown age) with the same model Jabsco ParMax 1 that had failed and
> now it is pressurizing the system, so the old pump was definitely the
> problem.  However, the new pump will not shut off, even if left for
> extended time.  I can find no water or air leaks and the system stays
> pressurized enough to get water from the sink days after running the pump,
> so it does not seem to have a leak on the outlet side.  I am stumped as to
> why it will not shut off.  Suggestions?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2022, at 3:17 PM, Chris Riedinger 
> wrote:
>
> The new shurflo is 4138-111-E65
>
> It's 12v, 6.5a max and 3gpm. It's got 55psi auto shutoff
>
> On Tue, Aug 9, 2022, 6:41 AM Chris Riedinger 
> wrote:
>
>> Was a jabsco, I replaced with sureflo.
>>
>> I can't find the model# on my log- I'll take a peek down there this
>> morning .
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 9, 2022, 6:17 AM David Knecht  wrote:
>>
>>> I can hear and feel the pump running fine, so I don’t think it is a
>>> connection issue.  What pump did you replace yours with?  Dave
>>>
>>> S/V Aries
>>> 1990 C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 8, 2022, at 10:35 PM, Chris Riedinger 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Checking breakers or fuses
>>>
>>> Any connections made - any corrosion in there? Are you getting
>>> (batteryV+)12v or only 10.2 indicating a possible short
>>>
>>> Our water pump, which I believe was the original, just died last year
>>> and I swapped it out. I wish I had done that sooner, the new pump is both
>>> quieter and uses less aH
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Swaloon 37/40+
>>>
>>> On Mon, Aug 8, 2022, 7:26 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hi Folks- I found that my fresh water pump was running continuously
 today and not pressurizing the system and not cutting out when
 pressurized.  I confirmed there was water in the tanks and flow to the
 manifold that controls tank choice.  But there was no water in the filter
 after the manifold and before the pump.  I removed the hose connecting the
 manifold/filter to the pump and when I sucked on it, I got water, so
 nothing appears blocked.  When I turned the pump on (Par-Max4), I could not
 feel any suction on the opening.  I presume these are self-priming pumps,
 so I should have felt some pull.  The pump is 30 years old, so I am
 presuming it is just dead, but wondering if there is any other scenario
 that might make it not work before I replace it.  Thanks- Dave

 S/V Aries
 1990 C 34+
 New London, CT


 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>

Stus-List Re: Simrad Autopilot Repair

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Also wondering if you looked into magnetic interference, as in, a power
cord nearby, or crossing close to one of your data wires or the box
itself.  I can recall of cases where a  pump starting up, or a randon quick
surge of a light or fan could confuse Otto.
however, if you have already gotten a new brain, you may be happy anyways -
I replaced an older Simrad with a B, because I was tired of trying to get
things to work with a mis-mash of 0183 and 2000 - after many thousands and
now all NMEA 2000 components, all of a sudden everything works wonderfully!

Bill Coleman
Erie, PA ENTRADA

On Fri, Aug 19, 2022 at 9:16 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
>
>
> I have a Simrad TP [tiller pilot] 30 which has started to do hard over
> “crazy Ivan’s” with increasing frequency, to the point it does it within
> 3-4 minutes of turning it on.
>
>
>
> Has anybody had a similar situation and solved it?  At first I would turn
> it off, let it rest for 10 – 20 minutes and try it again for several hours
> if not a full day.  That is not cutting it now.  5+ years ago I used it for
> several double handed races and it did sit in salt water that could not
> drain out the scuppers fast enough while in Standby mode – was a rough
> day.  So salt water may have gotten into the electronics.
>
>
>
> Has anyone used the Simrad repair facilities with any success?Is it
> worth attempting a repair or am I better off just buying a new unit, the TP
> 32?  I have had this unit for over 10 years, so can rationalize buying new
> and not playing with repairing this unit. Especially if I want to use it
> this season.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Try taking it apart and cleaning the vanes. Sometimes they get crud in
there.

Bill Coleman

On Mon, Aug 8, 2022 at 10:24 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Folks- I found that my fresh water pump was running continuously today
> and not pressurizing the system and not cutting out when pressurized.  I
> confirmed there was water in the tanks and flow to the manifold that
> controls tank choice.  But there was no water in the filter after the
> manifold and before the pump.  I removed the hose connecting the
> manifold/filter to the pump and when I sucked on it, I got water, so
> nothing appears blocked.  When I turned the pump on (Par-Max4), I could not
> feel any suction on the opening.  I presume these are self-priming pumps,
> so I should have felt some pull.  The pump is 30 years old, so I am
> presuming it is just dead, but wondering if there is any other scenario
> that might make it not work before I replace it.  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Bed-It butyl tape

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I recall a cartoon years ago, showing girl scouts rubbing two Toy Pintos
together to start a campfire!

On Sat, Aug 6, 2022, 11:04 Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
wrote:

> But a Ford Pinto was an “explosive” example of engineering in a small car
> .  What is there not to love about a Pinto
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, August 6, 2022 10:27:00 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* Leeward Rail 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Bed-It butyl tape
>
> FWIW.  The man who developed the Bed-It tape had a stoke last year and is
> slowly getting going again, along with the help of the sailboatowners.com
>
> New shipments are going out this month. I ordered 2 rolls to make sure I
> don't run out again.
>
> Other 'versions' that you can buy are not even close to the quality and
> performance of Bed-It.  I wasted money on a few.
>
> It is like comparing a Rolls Royce to a Ford Pinto.
>
Bill Coleman

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium Batteries

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Oh!
For some reason, I thought Ah were constant, regardless of voltage - I
guess maybe that is Kilowatts -
So with a 200 Ah Lifepo battery vs a 255 AGM, looks like I will lose some
capacity, unless that is made up with efficiency from the Lithium - .
Does that make sense?

Thanks Joe.

Bill Coleman

On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 2:40 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A 100 AH 24 volt battery and a 200 AH 12 volt battery hold the same amount
> of power.
>
> Assuming they are using 100 AH cells, the 12 volt will have 2 sets of 4
>  in series in the case that are then in parallel and the 24 volt version
> will have all 8 in series. You could literally open the case and change a
> 12 to a 24 volt or back again, BMS issues aside.
>
> Don’t forget the lithium batteries in a standard-size case may not be
> using all the real estate inside that case either, it isn’t like lead-acid
> where a certain capacity means a certain size.
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 27, 2022 2:33 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Lithium Batteries
>
>
>
> These are confusing, they have a 24 V that looks similar in size to the
> lifeline 8D, but the 8D is 255 Ah, and the
> <https://www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/sok-24v-100ah-lifepo4-battery>
> *SOK 24V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery
> <https://www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/sok-24v-100ah-lifepo4-battery>*
>
>
>
> is only 100 Ah - are they supposed to be equal, even with that disparity?
>
>
>
> Blil Coleman
>
> Entrada Erie PA
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 26, 2022 at 4:45 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I think I am going to get 2 of these:
>
> https://www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/sok-12v100ah-lifepo4-battery
>
>
>
> Advantages I see:
>
>1. Two of them means a dead BMS only takes half the bank offline, not
>100% of your power.
>2. They have heaters for the very rare times the cabin might be below
>freezing.
>3. They have Bluetooth for access to the BMS.
>4. I saved the best for last, if the BMS craps out or you just want a
>better one, just open it up and replace it! This is NOT possible with most
>batteries unless you cut them apart.
>5. See 4, a dead cell can be replaced.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Lithium Batteries

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

These are confusing, they have a 24 V that looks similar in size to the
lifeline 8D, but the 8D is 255 Ah, and the SOK 24V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery

is only 100 Ah - are they supposed to be equal, even with that disparity?

Blil Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Tue, Jul 26, 2022 at 4:45 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think I am going to get 2 of these:
>
> https://www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/sok-12v100ah-lifepo4-battery
>
>
>
> Advantages I see:
>
>1. Two of them means a dead BMS only takes half the bank offline, not
>100% of your power.
>2. They have heaters for the very rare times the cabin might be below
>freezing.
>3. They have Bluetooth for access to the BMS.
>4. I saved the best for last, if the BMS craps out or you just want a
>better one, just open it up and replace it! This is NOT possible with most
>batteries unless you cut them apart.
>5. See 4, a dead cell can be replaced.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: No recent mail - now alternator belt

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Why do you need the DC-DC Charger?
I am thinking about this too. I need to replace my Heart Inverter/Charger,
so there is that. I have fairly new Balmer Regulators, so I am pretty sure
they have a lithium battery setting.
Also, I am on 24 Volt, so if it is available would there be an advantage to
using 24V instead of putting 12V in series?

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Mon, Jul 25, 2022 at 2:13 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My battery charger does have a lithium setting, so that part is covered.
>
> What I don’t have is the DC-DC charger I’ll need to charge lithium from
> the engine bank.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Chris Riedinger via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, July 25, 2022 12:48 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Chris Riedinger 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: No recent mail - now alternator
> belt
>
>
>
> Why not just get a solar panel and some AGM batteries? Lithium requires
> new charger, AGM profile for charging is often available on legacy
> chargers.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 25, 2022, 6:28 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> To add to my fun it was about sunset and my batteries are about shot. I
> had 16 miles to go and didn’t want run on battery power, so digging through
> my spare belts it turns out they were all too short ☹ I had to swap
> alternators back to the one that uses the shorter belts, so a 10 minute job
> became quite a bit longer.
>
> I think I need to quit researching lithium batteries for the 25th time
> and just pick one!
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *Coquina*
>
>

Stus-List Re: No recent mail - now alternator belt

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

That's why I converted everything to serpentine!

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Sun, Jul 24, 2022, 19:55 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I've finally found a Kevlar reinforced belt for my Universal 25XPB.
> Haven't tried it yet.  The OEM and Gates belts seem to stretch out
> quickly.
>
> Kevlar reinforced belts are hard to find in the smaller sizes.
>
> This also ties into the recent thread on intake air filters.  The dust
> from my alternator belt makes my engine compartment far from clean.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sun, Jul 24, 2022 at 1:11 PM Joe via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> My alternator belt broke if that counts as a problem.
>> Joe
>> coquina
>> Anchored in Corsica river
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Jul 24, 2022, at 09:58, Stu via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > I guess everyone is enjoying the sailing season and not having problems
>> > with their boats and not doing any upgrades.
>> >
>> > Stu
>> >
>> >> On 7/24/2022 8:39 AM, jason shoemake via CnC-List wrote:
>> >> Morning Stu,
>> >>
>> >> I haven’t received any mail in about a month.
>> >> Is there a problem or just not much going on? What should I do?
>> >>
>> >> Thank you,
>> >> Jason Shoemake
>> >>
>> >> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Sea Foam

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I question even the need for an air filter on these boats. My Nanni Kubota
came with a tuned intake, a plastic piece that I think is supposed to cut
down on the noise, but it looked like the opening of a clarinet. No screen
or paper or anything. And my current I'd be just has a simple screen over
the turbo, about 6 in diameter by 2 inches wide. Looks like it would keep
flies out, but not smaller bugs if they should should be so unlucky as to
to get in the engine compartment. As I mentioned before, the oil in my boat
is clean as a whistle, as compared to the Kubota in my lawn mower which is
black as tar after probably 100 hours, because of the filthy air, even with
a pretty good paper air filter.

Thanks

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Tue, Jul 19, 2022, 09:35 Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I mentioned this a few weeks backmid June my Yanmar 2 GMF was
> producing black smoke when starting up and would not rev above 2,100 RPM's.
>
> Late last season, I decided to do some regular maintenance and checked my
> air filterthere was no air filter material...it had
> disintegrateddidn't have a new one on hand so genius here cut a piece
> of sponge and fitted it in the metal ring.  Engine worked fine.   But over
> the winter the sponge more than likely absorbed some water which would
> restrict air flow through it.
>
> I had a new Yanmar air filter on the boat which I got late last year and
> never installedchanged out the sponge and replaced with new one, and
> guess what, in neutral, the engine revived up to 3,400 ran the engine
> in forward gear at the slip for another 20 minutes shut the engine
> off...started again...revved up and downengine works as it should.
>
> The problem was a lack of airexplains where the smoke was coming from
> and the low RPM'sincomplete combustion because of restricted air flow.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 -#277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Sea Foam

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Wondering what you are trying to achieve, as I was just about to start a
discussion on white smoke. I am thinking that has more to do with unburnt
diesel. Was thinking about new injectors, but maybe I will try some of this
Motor magic, and then do the injectors. It doesn't seem to be burning oil,
as it is clean as a whistle, and not using any.
I am already using FPPF 8+ Cetane Improver, and Lubricity Plus Fuel Power.
And of course BioBor.
If none of this works, I will try spraying water/Soap into the Turbo as the
Manual suggests for carbon.

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Mon, Jul 18, 2022 at 1:24 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Every time. Also in the dinghy motor gas, mower gas, snowblower gas...
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Thu, 7 Jul 2022 at 05:59, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone put Sea Foam in their Diesel fuel?
>>
>> Wade Glew
>> Oh Boy, 33 MK II
>> Lake of the Woods
>>
>

Stus-List Re: Non- Gooey VHF handheld

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

So, I examinedthis handheld a lot closer, and it turns out that the area of
disintegration is basically around the front and around the edges. If it
had gotten all over everything it looked like it was totally ruined. So, I
used a pairing knife and I was able to shave off all of the goo. It was
pretty much, basically exactly like tar. I used alcohol, it took longer,
but I think safer as I didn't want to ruin the plastic clear lens. ( I know
what acetone does to lexan, after mistakenly cleaning sikaflex off and
having it melt the plastic )  So, now the handheld is, I guess usable
again. Only problem is, now I want a newer one with with automatic rewind,
and AIS!
 Thanks for all the suggestions.

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Fri, Jul 15, 2022, 16:27 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Some plastics turn into a soft goo after a while. Actually, cleaning with
> alcohol usually works better.
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
> Date: 2022-07-15 14:39 (GMT-05:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Korbey Hunt 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Non- Gooey VHF handheld
>
> Did you handle Deet / mosquito repellent with radio.  It will soften some
> plastics.  Try cleaning it with acetone before you pitch it.
>
> Get Outlook for Android
> <https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Faka.ms%2FAAb9ysg=05%7C01%7C%7C3139d3a68b544229150e08da669165d8%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637935071901369229%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=QpUDNHlOxJi14rKB5yyAzh09VxN1LBU0CU7zf3zuFac%3D=0>
> --
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 14, 2022 12:01:46 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Non- Gooey VHF handheld
>
> I am afraid I'm going to have to ditch my standard horizon 850 handheld.
> It has gotten so gooey, I can't stand to touch it, not to mention any place
> I leave it, it leaves gooey stuff. I blame the company for outsourcing to
> China. I wonder if anybody has a handheld that they feel the rubber is of a
> decent quality that it won't go to hell in a hand basket in a few years?
> I'm kind of looking for a mid-grade, maybe like an Icon m73 plus? I like
> the idea of being able to repeat the last minute of audio, as I have gotten
> so accustomed to backing up on my TV when I can't hear something clearly.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada Erie PA
>
>

Stus-List Re: C 35 Mainsheet

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Josh has an amazing mainsheet setup, I thought I bookmarked it, but can't
find it.
I think if you are not racing a 4:1 would work, just feather up and pull.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA


On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 11:13 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone changed their 35 to a multi-part tackle and cam cleat that you
> operate from the traveler back at the helm instead of the stock system that
> runs a line up to the mast and back to a cabin top winch?
> Would 4:1 be enough or would 6:1 be better?
>
> My preventer is a pretty big 4 part and cam cleat setup, it just about
> looks like it could do the job.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Standard Horizon VHF gone Gooey

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I am afraid I'm going to have to ditch my standard horizon 850 handheld. It
has gotten so gooey, I can't stand to touch it, not to mention any place I
leave it, it leaves gooey stuff. I blame the company for outsourcing to
China. ( suppose all of them are made there now, unfortunately. ) I wonder
if anybody has a handheld that they feel the rubber is of a
decent quality that it won't go to hell in a handbasket in a few years?
I'm kind of looking for a mid-grade, maybe like an Icon m73 plus? Also just
found this, a Cobra MR HH600. The only thing this doesn't have is AIS.   I
like the idea of being able to repeat the last minute of audio, as I have
gotten. Has anyone had a Cobra for several years that the rubber is still
in good shape? (Not gooey)
So accustomed to backing up on my TV when I can't hear something clearly, I
sometimes find myself wanting to push a button when someone is talking to
me-.

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

Stus-List Non- Gooey VHF handheld

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I am afraid I'm going to have to ditch my standard horizon 850 handheld. It
has gotten so gooey, I can't stand to touch it, not to mention any place I
leave it, it leaves gooey stuff. I blame the company for outsourcing to
China. I wonder if anybody has a handheld that they feel the rubber is of a
decent quality that it won't go to hell in a hand basket in a few years?
I'm kind of looking for a mid-grade, maybe like an Icon m73 plus? I like
the idea of being able to repeat the last minute of audio, as I have gotten
so accustomed to backing up on my TV when I can't hear something clearly.

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

>

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Barient 26 winch questions

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Those are pretty much generic, just find and measure one from the other
winch, and order a bag from McMaster!

Bill

On Thu, Jul 14, 2022, 09:20 Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
> I’ll just go measure the winch, I can’t seem to find that spec anyplace
> online.
>
> As for the springs, last time I greased the winches one launched itself
> overboard. Back then they were in stock at West Marine. Maybe not so much
> now?
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *From:* Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 13, 2022 3:01 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Rick Brass 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Barient 26 winch questions
>
>
>
> Can't help with the diameter, Joe, got 22's on my 25, and 25's, 28's, and
> 32's on Imzadi.
>
>
>
> To prevent losing anything over the side, go to Office Depot and buy a
> cardboard box that is X by X by X, where X is a comfortable amount larger
> than the diameter of your winch base. I use 4" larger myself.
>
>
>
> Or you can go to the post office and get a large flat rate priority mail
> box. Probably larger than you need, but it is free.
>
>
>
> Assemble the box and remove the top flaps. Cut a hole in the bottom the
> diameter of the winch base. Put the box over the winch, and anything that
> jumps and anything you drop or spill falls into the box.
>
>
>
> As far a springs go, as someone already said there is a source for Barient
> parts in New Zealand, though I don't believe it is Arco.
>
> But check with your local West Marine first, that is where the packet of
> spare pawl springs for my Barient winches came from a few years ago, and I
> presume they still sell them.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Stus-List 
> Sent: Jul 13, 2022 2:23 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Subject: Stus-List Barient 26 winch questions
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the drum diameter of the Barient 26s that are on the 35
> MK I?
>
> Also do I dare take them apart for greasing? If a spring shoots overboard
> can I still get more?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I really think you would notice a difference by leaving the Asym on the
deck until near the windward mark, you might try that once and see if it
makes a difference between you and your nemesis. Not a good comparison, but
when we pull our asym up (in a sock, tho, ) it really makes things wonky.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Tue, Jul 12, 2022 at 6:34 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a regular crew that has been together for seven years.  When we fly
> the symmetrical I’m on foredeck, and probably will be with the asym too
> (working its furling line).  I’m confident our sail changes will be faster
> with furling genoa and furling asym than with the previous  genoa luff rope
> in a head foil, and symmetrical in a sock with big heavy spin pole.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> On Jul 12, 2022, at 2:13 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Do you race your 30 single handed or with crew. If with good crew i think
> your symetrical kite hoists and take downs would be close to seemless sail
> transtions and very fast. I hope changing gear makes the difference you are
> looking for but you may still need help from good crew and you may still
> need to make some good tactical decisions that turn out lucky decisions.
> Gear changes will affect ratings.  Ratings assume equal crew. Your crew
> might be more important to success.
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Wow, you must really want to whoop your main competitor!

I guess that's what we do - it's just boat bucks!

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 9:46 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers I am appealing to your collective wisdom on rigging and trimming
> an asymmetrical spinnaker.
>
> For Grenadine’s 50th birthday this year, I added a new furling genoa on a
> new Selden 204S furler, a retractable Selden 75 bowsprit, and an A2
> asymmetrical spinnaker on a Selden GX10 top-down furler.  I’m installing
> the latter two birthday presents on Tuesday.
>
> This is all to improve my downwind performance, and facilitate fast upwind
> / downwind sail plan changes at the marks and on the course, in my club’s
> races.
>
> I guess my specific questions are as follows, but I would appreciate any
> additional tips you old salts might offer.
>
> 1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block,
> side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line
> to run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit
> lengthwise.  My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so
> I’ve repurposed a little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware
> was sufficient for a symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an
> asym tack line.  Am I wrong?
>
> 2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for
> the symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I
> use snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.
>
> 3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads
> his asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck
> so the trimmer can see the whole sail.
>
> 4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s
> tensioned so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut,
> but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions?
>
> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you mmight share.
>
> Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides,
> because of the etymology of my boat’s name, and because of her color scheme
> (red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Getting a little off subject, but I was really  amused when Rob Ball
commented about his 34, when he realized he would have to remove his engine
to fix something, and there was only 4 inches between the top of the engine
and the bottom of the cockpit floor - , I think, the story is getting fuzzy
now, but the point is that if he and other Naval Architects  had owned or
had to work on some of these boats early on, they might  have been more
user friendly!

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Fri, Jul 8, 2022 at 10:20 AM Novabraid via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Marek,
>
> The vast majority of issues relating to maintenance and especially
> replacement of components are caused by “efficiencies” in the build
> process.  Specifically regarding the order in which the hull, interior
> structure, headliner, and subsequently the deck are assembled.  Until
> you’ve seen a “modern” boat, especially a powerboat, with no deck or
> interior pan installed, you have no idea of how much “stuff” is hidden in
> the bilge or sandwiched between layers of assembled structures.  Truth be
> told, accessing wire connections after 40 years of service pales in
> comparison to the hours saved in assembly and it makes little difference to
> the buyer at the time of purchase of the boat when new.  And unlike the
> automotive world where each car model has a comprehensive service manual,
> actually working and fixing boats has never been a builder priority, and
> many repair techniques are discovered by trial and error.
>
> Many of the bits and pieces of the interior that are screwed in place can
> be made inaccessible after the deck is installed.  I cite my refrigerator
> lid that uses a piano style hinge to open.  After 38 years, the screws
> holding the hinge lid have pulled out from the countertop; however you cant
> access the screw heads to replace them because the extent of the opening is
> limited by the overhang of the deck in the galley.  Try removing a factory
> installed Raritan water heater that’s bigger than the opening in the
> lazarette.  Easy, just remove the entire diesel.  Of course it was
> installed at the factory with the deck off.
>
> That’s why forums such as these are so darn valuable.  Thank you Stu!
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Pandanaram, MA
>
> *From:* Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, July 8, 2022 9:53 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over
>
>
>
> Is this an ABYC rule to hide all the important electrical connections in
> places that are completely inaccessible for a normal person?
>
>
>
> It seems that way...
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 Legato
>
> Ottawa ON
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Annapolis Rigging Still in Business?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Sorry for the late response, Brian I had to think about this one. As far as
I know, they are still in business. Having said that, my experience with
them has been less of them stellar. I was a little apprehensive of them, as
they had stiffed me for a bill around $100 some 16 or 17 years ago. Then,
about 4 years ago I got a boat that happened to be in Jabin's Yard where
Annapolis rigging is located. The previous owner had put a 50% deposit on a
Duneema backstay Jay was supposed to produce. He was nice enough to let me
borrow a sawzall I needed to get the mast out. And I thought maybe I've
misjudged this fellow. I was pretty happy for the loan at the time, so  I
sent him $100 worth of extra Sazall blades. Then I had him rebuild a couple
of SailTec backstay adjusters that he was qualified to repair. It took many
calls ( unanswered or unreplied to,) trips by myself and others and finally
just going over there and getting them from one of his employees - he said
that they weren't completely bench tested, but I said That's okay Just give
them to me and I'll pay you. He said the dynema back stays were on
backorder, coming from Europe, and would take another 6 months. Well, long
story short, (too late)I never got the backstays, but I did get to talk to
a fellow at Annapolis Boat Show who represented the company that makes the
dyneema backstays, ( can't remember the name right now )and he arranged to
have them made in just a couple of weeks through through The Rigging
Company, which is just west of Annapolis rigging by about 300 or 400 ft.
 I'm guessing probably a former employee who saw that people needed another
alternative. So I ended up getting the back stay for four grand from the
Rigging  Company and lost 1800 to Jay. One of life's lessons. As my
daughter always says, life is hard.

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Sat, Jun 25, 2022, 05:58 nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone in the Annapolis area know if Annapolis Rigging is still in
> business?
>
>
>
> Their voice mail box is full and is not accepting any calls.  Jay does not
> respond to emails.
>
>
>
> Am not local [~ 280 miles away] so cannot just drive by.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>

Stus-List Re: diesel engine air filter

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I think a lot of them just do have silencers. They expect low contamination
and I think that's all I've ever had like through the years. I think my
Yanmar just has a screen over the turbo. Niel's point, about 15 years ago,
I bought a Kubota four-cylinder diesel for the boat, and a Kubota 3
cylinder diesel mower. After a few years, I noticed changing the oil, that
the boat engine oil was always clean as a whistle, and the lawn mower oil
was black like my old trucks used to be.

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Fri, Jul 1, 2022, 20:03 schiller via CnC-List 
wrote:

> So, not to get into the middle of this, but air filters are designed to
> remove dust particles from the air.  My tractors have oil filled air
> filters to accomplish this.  A boat, operating on a body of water is not in
> a high dust environment.  I figured this out with my first Atomic 4, that
> did not have an air filter and explained it as not being in a high dust
> environment.  There are a lot of antique motorcycles that have open
> ventures that have existed much longer than our boats. I am not opposed to
> air filters, but our environment is not one that screams for anything other
> than a silencer.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
>
> On 7/1/2022 6:12 PM, Josh via CnC-List wrote:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-GI38vE4hQ
>
> In the first minute of the video you'll see my solution for high flow AND
> high efficiency air filter at a reasonable price...well maybe not
> reasonable - $48.98!!!
>
> AEM 21-2201DK DryFlow Air Filter https://a.co/d/i5pGWhj
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> Jun 29, 2022 16:52:12 CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
>  :
>
> Hey guys,
>
> A new air filter for my Universal M4-30 cost $17 and which seems expensive
> for a simple ring of foam rubber sown like a bracelet.  I removed the old
> oil caked foam from the little screen and cleaned it up with solvent before
> installing the new one and had to flatten the venturi to get a good fit.
> The parts guy said it was more of a silencer than a filter.  Anybody know
> of a better air filter for a diesel engine like mine?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R
>
> On 06/29/2022 2:10 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
>
> Good to know.  Ill check my 30 hp Yanmar.  Last sumner running at WOT for
> 1/2 hour the motor shut down.  It restarted easily and ran fine.  I cleaned
> the fuel strainer but found no issues.  Ill replace the air filter.
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> --
> *From:* Dave S via CnC-List 
> 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 29, 2022 10:06:46 AM
> *To:* Stus-List  
> *Cc:* Dave S  
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF
>
> Good to hear.   How the heck did the old one get that clogged?   Bad
> decade for mosquitoes?
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Tue, 28 Jun 2022 at 22:19, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> While I awaited another day for a marine mechanic to get around to
> addressing my engine problem, while on the boat today, I thought of
> something.I had a new Yanmar air filter on the boat which I got last
> year, which I thought what harm could a new air filter dochanged out
> the old one and replaced with new one, and guess what, in neutral, the
> engine revived up to 3,400 before i stoppedran the engine in forward
> gear at the slip for another 20 minutes shut the engine
> off...started again...revved up and downengine works as it should.
>
> The problem was a lack of airexplains where the smoke was coming
> fromincomplete combustion...now, with the new air filter, no smoke.
>
> Thanks to everyone for thoughts/possibilities of what might be the cause
> of my engine issue.
>
> Going for a sail tomorrow.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: diesel engine air filter

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I just removed a shitload of that crap. Some kind of white fabric
perforated nagahide with acoustic holes, and completely disintegrated black
foam. It makes me worried that it may have lead in it, I've heard sounddown
had lead or something for sound deadening. I replaced it with those foam
egg crate material. It's probably supposed to be fire retardant, and I'm
not sure. Maybe I'll try setting some on fire. Outside of the boat that is.



Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Sat, Jul 2, 2022, 12:09 Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Josh,
>
> You are absolutely correct about sound deadening material disintegrating
> all over the engine roomthat is the case on my boat...the stuff on my
> boat is now so old it should be removedthe black dust particles are
> quite apparent in the engine compartment.
>
> Actually thinking about moving it and replacing it with either new
> material or a different material.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 -#277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2022-07-01 10:41 p.m., Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Neil, you're not wrong about the air being relatively clean but everyone
> should consider just how small 5 microns is while also remembering the last
> time the sound deadening material disintegrated all over the engine
> compartment.  Its also fascinating the speed at which the bilge gets dirty
> on a clean boat.  If the air truly is clean then ANY filter should last
> forever.  If, on the other hand, there is some mishap then any filter will
> help mitigate damage to the engine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> et Outlook for Android 
>
>> --
>>
>>
>

Stus-List Re: Painting hull

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I found what work best for me. Was putting the paint in a squirter, like a
ketchup squirter that I got at Sam's. About a 16 oz container. I just
squirted the paint. I was doing a mast at the time and it worked so so much
better than trying to roll it out and then use a paintbrush. I just
squirted it on, tiped it with the paintbrush and Bob was my uncle indeed.
And yes I happen to be in Canada at the moment.

Bill Coleman
Entrada
Erie Pennsylvania

On Fri, Jun 24, 2022, 16:05 Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Do any of you listers have experience rolling and tipping your boat with
> Epifanes 2 part poly-urethane?
> I would appreciate any comments about the process and results.
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland Or
>
> Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

But in the good ole USA, Sales tax lives on forever . . . .

Bill Colelman
Erie PA , 6% !  (I know, you Canucks have it way worse!)

On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:39 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I do know that import duties are only paid once
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* Dan via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 23, 2022 5:54:26 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dan 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country
> of manufacture
>
> Why would no duties be due?
> I thought if a Canadian boat is purchased in the USA by an American would
> they not have to pay an import tax or something?
>
> Dan Cormier
> C Breakaweigh
> Halifax, NS / Florida
>
> On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:36 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I don't think that it makes any difference if the boat was built in the US
> or Canada. No duties are due, regardless.
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Dan via CnC-List 
> Date: 2022-06-23 15:46 (GMT-05:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Dan 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of
> manufacture
>
> Thanks for the link to the Hull number lookup - exactly what I was looking
> for.
>
> I'm not near the boat right now but I do have the aluminum plaque in  the
> cockpit that simply says "C"... not sure if "made in the usa" is below
> it... and inside the boat there IS a small wooden plaque over the v-berth
> door but I don't think it is a maker's plaque.
>
> I'm still not able to pinpoint or prove where exactly my C was made
> although the history is pointing to Rhode Island as the boat was
> manufactured in August 1985 for the 1986 line. I'm selling it within the US
> and if I can prove it was made in Rhode Island it will be easier and less
> costly to the buyer.
>
> Does anyone know this information or can any other C owners who know
> where their boat was made chime in?
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 2:21 PM Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Nothing in the HIN will identify where your boat was built.  ZCC and CCY
> where both used in each plant
>
> Look for a builder’s plaque, which I suspect you haven’t found.
>
> The other way is to find Hulls near yours to see where they were built
>
> The project #84-1, 44 was originally built in Rhode Island as you noted in
> 85 and “coming to Canada” in 86 after Rhode Island was shut down November 85
>
> JKC
>
> www.candcyachts.com
> 
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
>
>

Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

That is a great article, and I think a great alternative . I get PS, but I
don't remember that. I remember them doing the Hypalon boat painting. I
didn't realize that paint was actually considered a premium product at the
top sailmakers. When I first heard of people putting house paint on their
sails, I thought oh my God! But it looks like that Amazon hypalon paint is
just the ticket. I wish I had done that instead of putting the insignia
sticky stuff on. Not sure how I'll get that off!

Also interesting in the comments below that, about the cover causing a hook
in the leech. The Frisbee effect! I have that now, and I don't know how to
get rid of it

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Wed, Jun 22, 2022, 06:31 David Swensen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Painted UV protection?
>
>
> https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/the-case-of-the-painted-jib%3Famp%3D1
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 21, 2022, at 7:54 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I think I am going to use the sew-on cover again, the sock seems a little
> involved. Last time I had a UV cover done it was $500 or so, inflation
> sucks. I am going to ask around a few places. One thing that can bug you
> about an old boat is fixing the same stuff over and over. I am after
> batteries again and that isn’t going to be cheap either just like the last
> time or the one before that or the one before that….
>
>
>
> To make it even worse, going to Saint Michael’s on Saturday the wind was
> CRANKING from astern, way too much for the spinnaker, the genoa is in the
> shop, and I don’t even have my working jib anymore. We ended up using just
> the main and that was good for hitting 8 knots, but the balance was
> terrible. Steering a straight line and not rounding up was a bit of a
> challenge.
>
> In hindsight dragging out the storm jib would have been worth it for
> balance.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Cool, just learned a nice new knot.
And easy too, with this video -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2aRj8dQPRQ


Bill Coleman

On Fri, Jun 17, 2022 at 9:29 AM Josh via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Your experience sounds exactly the same as mine.  The use of the Alpine
> Butterfly has similar physics but allows for the use of a soft shackle
> which makes changing the headsail a possibility.
>
> Josh
>
>

Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

So, do you zip down to your sheets, and zip up to them, or do you take the
sheets off altogether and just zip with one zipper?

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Mon, Jun 20, 2022, 21:55 Bob Mann via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Do away with the sacrificial altogether!  I bought a jib sock for my 35 in
> December 2017 for $580 from a small, local sailmaker.  A few tears in it
> but still going strong!
>
> Bob Mann
> Detroit
>
> On 06/20/2022 9:45 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> I had a “stick on” sacrificial cover attached to my 150 years ago.  I was
> rounding Bloody Point on the Chesapeake in fairly strong winds when the
> cover got attached to the shrouds instead of the sail.  Not a lot of fun as
> we could only adjust our heading so much, we’re running out of “runway”,
> and the sail was basically glued to the shroud.   I will NEVER use a glue
> on item like that unless it is also sewn on as well.
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, June 20, 2022 8:28:31 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover
>
> U V cover replacement is by the foot. What else did they recommend?  New
> webbing? Restitching?
>
> On Mon, Jun 20, 2022 at 7:34 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Maybe it's time for a SailRite machine!
> On the other hand, isn't there some kind of a white sticky material you
> can buy and just put it on yourself? It sticks like the numbers or
> graphics. I'm pretty sure I had that on one of my leeches.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada Erie PA
>
> On Mon, Jun 20, 2022, 19:08 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> The UV cover on my genoa is starting to fail, so I took it to Bacons to
> get repaired. I figured 5 or 6 boat bucks maybe. Well I figured wrong, the
> estimate came back at $1350! Yikes!
>
> Are they nuts or is this the going rate now? That seems like a pretty good
> chunk of an entire sail!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
>
>

Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Yeow!

Bill Coleman

On Mon, Jun 20, 2022, 21:46 Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a “stick on” sacrificial cover attached to my 150 years ago.  I was
> rounding Bloody Point on the Chesapeake in fairly strong winds when the
> cover got attached to the shrouds instead of the sail.  Not a lot of fun as
> we could only adjust our heading so much, we’re running out of “runway”,
> and the sail was basically glued to the shroud.   I will NEVER use a glue
> on item like that unless it is also sewn on as well.
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, June 20, 2022 8:28:31 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover
>
> U V cover replacement is by the foot. What else did they recommend?  New
> webbing? Restitching?
>
> On Mon, Jun 20, 2022 at 7:34 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Maybe it's time for a SailRite machine!
> On the other hand, isn't there some kind of a white sticky material you
> can buy and just put it on yourself? It sticks like the numbers or
> graphics. I'm pretty sure I had that on one of my leeches.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada Erie PA
>
> On Mon, Jun 20, 2022, 19:08 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> The UV cover on my genoa is starting to fail, so I took it to Bacons to
> get repaired. I figured 5 or 6 boat bucks maybe. Well I figured wrong, the
> estimate came back at $1350! Yikes!
>
> Are they nuts or is this the going rate now? That seems like a pretty good
> chunk of an entire sail!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
>
>

Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Maybe it's time for a SailRite machine!
On the other hand, isn't there some kind of a white sticky material you can
buy and just put it on yourself? It sticks like the numbers or graphics.
I'm pretty sure I had that on one of my leeches.

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Mon, Jun 20, 2022, 19:08 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> The UV cover on my genoa is starting to fail, so I took it to Bacons to
> get repaired. I figured 5 or 6 boat bucks maybe. Well I figured wrong, the
> estimate came back at $1350! Yikes!
>
> Are they nuts or is this the going rate now? That seems like a pretty good
> chunk of an entire sail!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Bilge Pumps

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I replaced a rule with a johnson, I believe it was almost identical as far
as th attachment, except the rotation was off just a bit.
I have to say, I have tried every possible potable water pump there is, and
I just discovered Johnson had a pump, I think it is variable speed Flow
Master 5.0, but is the best pump I have ever had in 25 years.

On Mon, Jun 13, 2022 at 11:53 AM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have had good service from Rule pumps with an integral float switch for
> 20 years and multiple problems with external switches.
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> --
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, June 13, 2022 4:33:06 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Bilge Pumps
>
> Randy,
>
> I've never been fond of automatic bilge pumps.  I much prefer a separate
> pump and float switch.  I recommend the Ultra Safety Systems Junior bilge
> pump switch.  Pricey but worth it, IMHO.
>
> I replaced several Rule float switches before I finally spent the extra $$
> for the USS pump.  On the other hand, Touche's Rule 1500 bilge pump has
> been working for over two decades.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Jun 13, 2022 at 2:36 AM Randal Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Listers,
>
> What are your favorite bilge pumps?
>
> I think I’m pretty done with RuleMate 1100s.  I’ve had really mixed
> experiences with their reliability.
>
> I’m general I’d prefer an automatic pump so I don’t have to fuss with a
> float switch, but I could relent on that.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Varnish

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Arlet likes Minwax, polyurethane, satin. Or glass. I used that inside . .
Sea Fox,  and it held up great for as long as I had it. I imagine it is
still holding up great. Polyurethane is just fine inside, & it wears like
iron.

Bill Coleman

On Sat, Jun 18, 2022, 14:10 Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers:
>
>
>
> I know this topic has been covered before, so please
> forgive my ignorance.  Although I don’t ordinarily varnish my interior teak
> ply, I plan to do so around the companionway to protect against water.
> I’ll likely use a satin finish.  What type/brand of varnish would you
> recommend?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Matt
>

Stus-List Re: Reefing lines

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I have always found that tough to do as well, the initial tightening of the
reefine.

And sometimes, I still forget this, but once I just let the main sheet
free, I let the boom go where it wants, I can just tighten up. The boom
always ends up higher than you're used to, so I think there's a tendency to
have it down too low and try and tighten the main clew where it cannot go.
I don't tie it around the boom, though I have a padeye on the top of the
boom where the reeefine dead ends. My boat sails & looks better with the
number one reef oddly enough. And it is blowing cats off of roofs here as
well. Sitting at the dock with the boat laying at 10°

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Sat, Jun 18, 2022, 18:55 David Knecht via CnC-List 
wrote:

> We raced today in a real blow and I was reminded to ask how others rig
> their reefing lines.  I have a single reef point in my main and outhaul and
> reefing line both exit the pulleys on the end of the boom.  When I want to
> reef, I have generally run the reefing line up to the cringe, down and
> around the boom and tied it to the boom. I have found it to be really
> difficult to pull the new clew down and back to flatten the sail in both
> directions.  It seems like it should work, but I am not sure if there is a
> better way.   How do others rig for reefing?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: air conditioner pump

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I have a Primetimepump.com which is well built, mostly SS. Only problem I
had with it was an impeller explosion, which they had a repair kit for.
For smaller units, I have a dometic LC-2CP that seems to work well. I
replaced the original once on a trip, I thought the bearings were shot by
the horrible noise, but unfortunately I threw it out. I later discovered
the new one would make the same noise if it wasn't primed properly. As you
probably know, they won't pull a head. A priming valve is essential.
Someone mentioned a Refrigeration pump, but it seems these are usually 12V
DC, and the AC Pumps are usually 120V AC, the same voltage as the units.

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

On Tue, Jun 14, 2022 at 11:15 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey guys,
>
> I need to replace the air conditioner pump and wondered if anybody has
> recommendations.
>
> Chuck
>

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Thank you for outing the hack, sometimes it is hard to know who to believe when 
something (like this) is not your area of expertise.

I just found this on my Balmar regulator instructions, which gives me pause . 
.. 

 

LFP LiFeP04 Recommendations

Our LFP program is a generalized version of the recommendations provided by the 
top LFP battery manufacturers. For best performance and compatibility, please 
consult your battery manufacturer and use the regulator’s advanced programming 
features to adjust the LFP program as needed. LFP batteries are more sensitive 
to abuse than a traditional chemistry battery and can fail catastrophically. It 
is HIGHLY recommended that the charging system as a whole be installed or 
inspected by a qualified marine electrical installer that has experience with 
Balmar charging system products and LFP batteries. The LFP profile is intended 
to work with the battery manufacturer’s battery management systems (BMS). The 
LFP profile IS NOT a replacement for a BMS.

 

FMany LiFePo4 batteries have a Battery Management System (BMS) that may 
disconnect the battery from the alternator as a protective action or when 
charging is complete. The regulator must be shut down before the battery is 
disconnected .Running an alternator without a battery will damage the 
alternator and may damage any attached system. This is doubly true if the 
battery can be disconnected during high current charging, causing a load dump. 
The load dump can easily cause a high voltage spike which will destroy the 
alternator’s rectifier, at minimum. This is not a warrantable failure. To 
reiterate: THE ALTERNATOR MUST BE SHUT DOWN BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY. 
THE ONLY SAFE WAY TO SHUT DOWN THE ALTERNATOR IS TO TURN OFF THE REGULATOR. The 
preferred method of turning off the regulator is disconnecting the regulator’s 
ignition (brown) wire, but if used as an EMERGENCY ONLY shutdown, disconnecting 
the regulator’s power input (red) wire in addition to the ignition wire has a 
very low chance of damaging the regulator.

 

FLFP batteries will readily accept a damaging amount of current. Applying too 
much charge current to a LFP battery will, at the very least, permanently 
damage the battery’s capacity. It is CRITICAL to ensure that the alternator is 
not capable of exceeding the maximum continuous charge current rating of your 
battery (or batteries). As always, check with your battery manufacturer for 
specifics. Your battery manufacturer may supply you with a “C-rate” for 
charging and discharging. The maximum amount of charging current your battery 
can safely handle is determined by multiplying the “C-Rate” by the capacity of 
the bank. i.e. 4x 100Ah 12V batteries rated at 0.5C charge = 400 Ah * 0.5C = 
200amps MAX. If your alternator is capable of outputting more current, at any 
time or condition, than the battery (or batteries) can handle, you may use the 
Amp Manager feature on the MC-624 to lower the maximum field drive output, and 
thereby lower the maximum alternator output current. See page 10 of your 
regulator manual for details and instructions. Be aware that it is not an exact 
1:1 correlation between field output and alternator output, so start with more 
reduction (lower output) than you think you need and adjust accordingly.

 

FIt is strongly recommended that an alternator temperature sensor (MC-TS-A) be 
used when charging LFP batteries. Given the extremely high charge acceptance 
rate of LFP batteries, the alternator will be driven to full output for almost 
all of the charge cycle. This can cause overheating in automotive style 
alternators resulting in a significantly shortened lifespan. When equipped with 
the MC-TS-A temperature sensor, the MC-624 will help you protect your 
investment by reducing the field voltage to your alternator by 50% when over 
the “AL1” temperature threshold. If you cannot use an MC-TS-A in your 
application, you should monitor the alternator’s temperature (measure as close 
to the loop ends of the stator as possible) and discontinue charging if the 
alternator temperature rises above the maximum recommended level. You may also 
use the Amp Manager feature on your MC-624 to reduce maximum output until a 
tolerable alternator temperature is maintained under all conditions.

 

FMost LFP battery manufacturers specify minimum and maximum charging 
temperatures to be from freezing (32°F, 0°C) to around 111°F (44°C). Again, 
consult with your battery manufacturer for specifics. When equipped with a 
MC-TS-B, the MC-624 can disable charging if the battery temperature exceeds the 
“B1L” temperature threshold and re-enable charging when the temperature drops 
below the threshold. This feature is meant to supplement, not replace, your 
BMS’s temperature protection features. “B1L” should be adjusted to be slightly 
less than BMS’s temperature threshold. Note that the regulator does not have 
the capability to prevent charging during low temperatures.

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

One of the newer chargers.

I got a Pronautic 1220P for my start battery for some reason, and it has a 
setting on it for LiFePO4.

I will send you a PDF of the manual off list.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: james taylor via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2022 7:20 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: james taylor
Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again

 

Another question that haven't seen in this discussion. What battery charger do 
you need for this type of battery? My charger has setting for flooded, sealed 
and AGM, and I haven't seen many chargers that mention LiFePO4settings. 

 

 

On Fri, May 27, 2022 at 7:19 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Quick battery facts:

 

An ideal battery is like a water tank. It holds X amount, can be filled as fast 
as you want or as slow as you want, and likewise for emptying the water. No 
matter what, you get 10 gallons out of a 10 gallon tank.

How all types of lead-acid batteries fail in being perfect:

1.  Peukert Effect – A 200 amp hour battery might last 250 hours if only 
drawing one amp and maybe one hour at 100 amps.
2.  Charge efficiency – Not all the electricity that goes in gets stored, 
some amount is converted to heat, off gassing, etc.
3.  Cycle life – A 200 amp hour battery eventually declines to a lot less 
than 200 and then is dead. Battery manufacturers supply graphs of 
depth-of-discharge vs. lifespan of the battery. A battery discharged to 80% and 
recharged carefully to 100% might last well over a thousand cycles. One 
discharged to 0% and recharged might last 10 or 20 cycles or maybe 1 cycle if 
it was a starting battery. Most cruisers figure on 50% depth-of-discharge as 
the limit for a good lifespan.

 

What this means is a 200ah lead battery is good for 100ah if you want it to 
last AND have a way to get it all the way back to 100% easily. Many people 
figure on cycling between 50% and 90% or so. The fuller a lead battery gets, 
the slower it charges.

 

In contrast, a lithium battery is a lot closer to the ideal. The charge 
efficiency is high, the Peukert Effect doesn’t really exist for them, you can 
charge them fast if needed, and their lifespan is good to 80% discharge. A 
200ah lithium battery is good for 160ah useable capacity, not the less than 100 
that is the practical useable capacity of lead battery of the same nominal 
rating.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

 

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2022 4:27 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again

 

So Dave, would the SOK Battery 206Ah 12v LiFePO4 Battery Solar Battery be an 
equivalent swap-out for a Lifeline GPL-8DA 12 V 255 AH Battery?

This is a little confusing  (and intimidating) for the non-initiated . . 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Dreuge via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 3:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again

 

Dave,

 

As I mentioned in previously replies to the list, it no longer makes any sense 
to buy lead acid batteries(i.e. flooded, gel, or AGM)  for a house bank.   For 
lead acid, the AH capacity is highly dependent on the current load due to the 
Peukert Effect.   Deep cycle lead acid batteries are rated at C/20.  For a 
100AH rated battery, this is 100AH/20H = 5A.   This is often called the 20H 
rate, i.e.  5A * 20H = 100AH. If the actual load is 20A, then the same 
100AH rated lead acid battery would only provide 60AH (or 10AH at 100A).  And 
worse, one should only use 50% of a lead acid battery’s capacity as going below 
50% substantially degrades the battery lifetime.   This means that a 100AH lead 
acid battery has an effective 50AH @ 5A (or 30AH @ 20A).  

 

Let’s assume a 100AH lead acid battery price of $264 (the average of the Amazon 
prices), then 2 batteries would cost one $528 and one would get an effective 
100AH (50%*200AH) at 5A loads.  

 

Now,  the price of LiFePO4 batteries have come way down in the last few years 
and their performance and lifetimes are a magnitude better.   A 100AH LiFePO4 
battery is typically rated at 1C.  That is they can deliver 100AH at 100A for 
1H(or 5A at 20H or 20A at 5H).  They can also charge at amps up to 100A which 
is impossible for a lead acid battery.   And LiFePO4 batteries live 5 times 
longer.  That is,  one would expect to replace 5 sets of lead acid batteries 
before replacing a LiFePO4 battery.Yes, LiFePO4 batteries are more complex 
as they require a battery management system (i.e. BMS), but there are companies 
which provide 12V drop in replacements with the BMS built internal to the 
battery.   Top companies like Battle Born sell a 100AH LiFePO4 for $874 and 
provide a 10yr warranty.   Renogy sells a 100AH LiFePO4 for $765.   A company, 
CurrentConnected.com, sells a SOK 100AH LiFePO4 battery for $569 and it has

Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

It certainly does not seem unreasonable for the yard to have cut it if there 
was no way to disconnect it, That is just common sense. But they should have 
taped a line onto the hidden part so you could fish another from the radio.

At some point a mast is going to have to be removed.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: cenelson--- via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2022 9:44 AM
To: Hoyt, Mike; Stus-List
Cc: cenel...@aim.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes

 

A great idea although my mast is not routinely removed—twice since new in 1995.

 

At least this solution allows the cable to be disconnected and reconnected 
without cutting it, which the Shakespeare connector requires.

 

Of course, I would need a ‘crimper’ for the male connectors—as another poster 
proclaimed “…it never ends…”

 

Charlie

 

PS: I am going to lean hard on the yard to do this fix—they were the one who 
broke it—as other listers have suggested!


Sent   
from the all new AOL app for iOS

On Monday, May 30, 2022, 8:57 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

You should put a connector there anyway so that you can remove the mast in the 
future.  Majority of boats at our club take down mast every year and are set up 
this way.  Basically same connector as at radio and antenna ends of the cable 
with a  barrel connector

 

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
Sent: May 28, 2022 7:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes

 

About 8" from where it enters the bottom of the mast in the bilge (dry). Except 
for working on my old knees and removing part of the sole, it is reachable. I 
have not found the other end that goes to the radio but I suspect it is hidden 
under the sole that I must remove to see/find it.  

 

Charlie

-Original Message-
From: Andy Frame via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andy Frame 
Sent: Sat, May 28, 2022 4:26 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes


Where is the cut?


On 5/28/2022 12:07 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
> The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the
> mast antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or
> 'splice' the current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that
> claim to connect the shield and the conductor without solder, etc.
>
> Has any one on the list used such connectors and had any luck (or hints
> on how to proceed!) or am I faced with running new cable and the expense
> of someone to climb the mast, etc. The connector was only $16 so I
> figured it was worth that much to give it a try.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom C 36 XL/kcb
> New Bern, NC


>
>
>

--
s/v MaryMe
1975 C 24
Port Labelle, FL USA
Amateur Radio WD4RCC 

 

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

So Dave, would the SOK Battery 206Ah 12v LiFePO4 Battery Solar Battery be an 
equivalent swap-out for a Lifeline GPL-8DA 12 V 255 AH Battery?

This is a little confusing  (and intimidating) for the non-initiated . . 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Dreuge via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 3:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again

 

Dave,

 

As I mentioned in previously replies to the list, it no longer makes any sense 
to buy lead acid batteries(i.e. flooded, gel, or AGM)  for a house bank.   For 
lead acid, the AH capacity is highly dependent on the current load due to the 
Peukert Effect.   Deep cycle lead acid batteries are rated at C/20.  For a 
100AH rated battery, this is 100AH/20H = 5A.   This is often called the 20H 
rate, i.e.  5A * 20H = 100AH. If the actual load is 20A, then the same 
100AH rated lead acid battery would only provide 60AH (or 10AH at 100A).  And 
worse, one should only use 50% of a lead acid battery’s capacity as going below 
50% substantially degrades the battery lifetime.   This means that a 100AH lead 
acid battery has an effective 50AH @ 5A (or 30AH @ 20A).  

 

Let’s assume a 100AH lead acid battery price of $264 (the average of the Amazon 
prices), then 2 batteries would cost one $528 and one would get an effective 
100AH (50%*200AH) at 5A loads.  

 

Now,  the price of LiFePO4 batteries have come way down in the last few years 
and their performance and lifetimes are a magnitude better.   A 100AH LiFePO4 
battery is typically rated at 1C.  That is they can deliver 100AH at 100A for 
1H(or 5A at 20H or 20A at 5H).  They can also charge at amps up to 100A which 
is impossible for a lead acid battery.   And LiFePO4 batteries live 5 times 
longer.  That is,  one would expect to replace 5 sets of lead acid batteries 
before replacing a LiFePO4 battery.Yes, LiFePO4 batteries are more complex 
as they require a battery management system (i.e. BMS), but there are companies 
which provide 12V drop in replacements with the BMS built internal to the 
battery.   Top companies like Battle Born sell a 100AH LiFePO4 for $874 and 
provide a 10yr warranty.   Renogy sells a 100AH LiFePO4 for $765.   A company, 
CurrentConnected.com, sells a SOK 100AH LiFePO4 battery for $569 and it has a 
10 yr warranty!   YouTuber Will Prowse rates the SOK as the best value LiFePO4 
12V drop in replacement (see 
https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html).  There are a 
plethora of cheaper 100AH LiFePO4 batteries that can be found on Amazon, Ebay, 
AliExpres, …, but one gets little service and limited warrantees,  so I would 
recommend avoiding these.

 

Rather than buying 2 100AH lead acid batteries for $528 at a total weight of 
140lbs(70lbs each) , one could just buy 1 100AH LiFePO4 for $569 weighing only 
28lbs and get a better performing battery.  That is basically the same price.   
If one takes into account the increased lifetime, the saving is HUGE!  

 

If one builds their own DIY LiFePO4 battery, the savings is much much greater.  
 Last year I replaced 2 100AH lead acid batteries with one DIY 560AH LiFePO4 
battery for a little over $900 (see my blog link below).  The DIY LiFePO4 
battery occupies the same location and physical space as the previous 2 lead 
acid batteries, it weighs much less (95 lbs vs 125 lbs), but has 5 TIMES the 
capacity.

 

I recently gave a talk on off-grid solar systems a local  amateur radio society 
meeting.  The discuss the battery as the heart of the system and make the case 
for LiFePO4 batteries.  My slides from the talk are available on my blog:

 


https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/10/solar-off-grid-system.html

 

 

Also, the details of my DIY 560AH LiFePO4 are posted at the link below which 
includes details about alternator charging. 

 


https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/06/adding-new-lifepo4-to-house-battery.html

 

 

 

 

Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Went down to Rinse/fill my water tanks last nite, after around 10 - 15
minutes of pumping rinse water overboard, I happened to look in the engine
room, and there was water pouring all over - some unnamed moron forgot to
close the drain valve on the hot water tank last fall.

Sometimes I make more work for myself than I accomplish.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: John Read via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:47 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: John Read
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.

 

Geez John - it never ends L

 

John Read

 

 

Stus-List Re: knot meter not working

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Have you posed this to the B group on Facebook?

Bill Coleman

On Tue, Apr 26, 2022, 07:51 Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Bob,
>
> Is the boat in the water? If so, pull the transducer and clean it /clear
> it thoroughly.
>
> I didn’t have B, but that solution worked well on my old Raymarine
> system.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> Bayliner 3788 | NCC-1701-C
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   |Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On Apr 26, 2022, at 7:34 AM, Bob Mann via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> 
> My speed/depth/temp thru-hull is now showing dashes instead of values.
> It's the airmar DST800 that came with my B displays.  Can these be
> repaired or am I SOL?  Is there a number/email for B?  The local,
> official installer isn't worth crap so even though only ~25 months old
> probably not covered under warranty.
>
> Bob
> Mystic
>

Stus-List Vacuum Gauge replacement

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Occasionally Fuel Filter gauges come up in our discussion – and running a tube 
back to the cockpit to monitor.

 

Just saw this post pop up on a Panbo post I was on, about a pretty cool 
electronic sensor to pipe this info into your NMEA trunk and view on your MFD. 
Pretty cool for the nerd in us. $190 bucks, but certainly would keep you more 
aware of an engine shutdown.

 

Go to Racorstore dot com, and search for   AOS NMEA 2000 Vacuum Sensor

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Stus-List Re: USCG flares vs electronic devices

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Well, I’m glad Rick left a few dangling participles below, B/C I don’t seem to 
be getting all the emails like the one from Joe, even in spam folders on the 
Gmail Server.

 

Having said that, this got me excited enough to get one of these SOLAS 
Parachute flares, only to be told you have to pick them up at the store! I 
wonder if they are that dangerous,(no shipping) if they should be stored in an 
Army Surplus 50 Caliber cartridge box or something – I would hate to have 
something like that go off below!

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2022 8:38 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Stus-List Re: USCG flares vs electronic devices

 

I have to agree with Joe about the value of SOLAS flares. I hate spending $50 
each on them – it’s the frugal (read cheap) sailor part of me – but if I ever 
need help I want someone to notice.  12 or 25 gauge flares are glorified bottle 
rockets, and USCG approved aerial flares go up 250-300 feet and burn for a few 
seconds.

 

A few years ago I took a couple of expired SOLAS flares to my folks’ house on 
an inland lake in Michigan over July 4th. I figured to see what the flares 
looked like and make sure I knew how to set one off while everyone was shooting 
fireworks and wouldn’t notice the flare. WRONG! The rocket went up 1000 feet or 
more, the flare burst red and rode down on its parachute for what seemed like 
forever, and the whole lake was lit up like a blood red noon.

 

I’m convinced that when you pop one of these puppies someone – probably 
everyone – will notice. Which is just what I want if I really need help.

 

I also carry a couple of SOLAS smoke canisters aboard. I can’t recall the cost 
but it was pretty high. But when you pull the string and toss the can in the 
water, it lets out a cloud of orange smoke that seems like it would cover half 
of Lake Erie. I know this from watching a USCG training exercise ( I happened 
to be passing near Elizabeth City when the exercise was taking place) and I 
could see the smoke cloud from over three miles away.

 

I hope I never have to use any of this, but if I do I know the SOLAS stuff will 
be well worth the cost.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2022 10:36 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: USCG flares vs electronic devices

 

The electronic “flares” are a cheap way to be in compliance, but if you 
actually think you might need help they aren’t even remotely close to SOLAS 
flares. The strobes are probably going to be ignored by everyone, 12 gauge 
flares are useless unless you are right next to someone, but SOLAS flares light 
up the sky bright enough to read by!

 

Joe

Coquina

 

Stus-List Re: Teak Handrail install

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

The Brass are a little fatter, but you don’t have to worry about SS on SS 
Galling.

https://www.rockler.com/e-z-knife-threaded-insert-for-hard-wood-brass-pack-of-25

 

 

The SS ones allow for a smaller hole. Similar in price. I put a thin coating of 
tefgel on a screw, put it in the helicoil, and pushed that into the hole filled 
with thickened epoxy. I guess I liked the SS Helicoil better. Just a personal 
preference. 

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/helicoils/stainless-steel-helical-inserts-9/

 

I put them on the deck with 5200 (Don’t say it!) because  these hand rails 
inevitably are stepped on sideways when the boat is heeling, and a 10-24 
machine screw can’t handle that too well. But the allure of having an O-ring 
seal for the ease of removing in the fall for varnishing is pretty hard to 
ignore.

 

I sent you a picture of the install off list.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2022 8:35 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: Teak Handrail install

 

Hey Bill, 

I am just learning about these threaded inserts and heli-coils.  Can you share 
what you learned from using both? 

 

Chuck S

 

 

On 03/19/2022 11:16 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote: 

 

 

Yes, I did that about 15 years ago, I used brass inserts epoxied into the 
outside rails.

Then later I did the sliding hatch cover by epoxying  SS Helicoils into the 
teak.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2022 9:37 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER
Subject: Stus-List Teak Handrail install

 

Curious if anyone else tried this? 

 

My cabin top handrails are bolted to a matching set in the cabin ceiling.  They 
were throughbolted to each other using long bolts and nuts and the holes 
bunged.  I removed them to fix leaks many years ago and want to install them 
now so I can simply remove the screws from inside and remove both for a winter 
retouch.

 

They were originally through bolted together, the outside cabintop handrails 
had 3 1/2" long 10-24 screws and the cabin ceiling handrails had nuts holding 
it all together, both fasteners had teak bungs over the fasteners. 

 

My plan is to install threaded inserts into the outside handrails and use 
stainless 10-24 screws from the inside ones to hold them together.  My plan is 
to bung the outer handrails and leave out bungs on the inner set, so I can 
remove the the screws from inside, each winter.  I've already overbored and 
redrilled and countersunk the deck holes, and will use butyl tape for bedding.  
This should provide a way to remove the long screws from inside without 
removing the bungs on the outside handrails. 

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/90016A011/ 

 

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stus-List Re: Teak Handrail install

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Yes, I did that about 15 years ago, I used brass inserts epoxied into the 
outside rails.

Then later I did the sliding hatch cover by epoxying  SS Helicoils into the 
teak.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2022 9:37 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER
Subject: Stus-List Teak Handrail install

 

Curious if anyone else tried this? 

 

My cabin top handrails are bolted to a matching set in the cabin ceiling.  They 
were throughbolted to each other using long bolts and nuts and the holes 
bunged.  I removed them to fix leaks many years ago and want to install them 
now so I can simply remove the screws from inside and remove both for a winter 
retouch.

 

They were originally through bolted together, the outside cabintop handrails 
had 3 1/2" long 10-24 screws and the cabin ceiling handrails had nuts holding 
it all together, both fasteners had teak bungs over the fasteners. 

 

My plan is to install threaded inserts into the outside handrails and use 
stainless 10-24 screws from the inside ones to hold them together.  My plan is 
to bung the outer handrails and leave out bungs on the inner set, so I can 
remove the the screws from inside, each winter.  I've already overbored and 
redrilled and countersunk the deck holes, and will use butyl tape for bedding.  
This should provide a way to remove the long screws from inside without 
removing the bungs on the outside handrails. 

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/90016A011/ 

 

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stus-List Re: Surveyor in the Baltimore/Annapolis Area?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Trim it before you send it!
There is a Robert Noyce in Annapolis, (410-703-5380) I saw a survey on a
boat he did for the seller, so that  survey looked pretty good, as in
nothing of any consequence. I think he's an older fellow.  I declined to use
him, because of this prior association. A potential buyer B/4 me used him,
but I didn't get to see that survey. I used Kevin White, (410-703-2165)
which someone on this list recommended. He did a decent job, missed a couple
things because it wasn't in the water, but he was pretty good on hull
tapping.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie PA

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2022 9:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Stus-List Surveyor in the Baltimore/Annapolis Area?

 

A client of mine recently lost their 42' Jefferson motor yacht in a fire.
They are boat shopping again.

 

They have an interest in a President 43 Sundeck that is in the Pasadena, MD
area. From the photos and listing it looks like it could be a decent boat
for their expectations. We will probably be making a day trip up there next
week to look at the boat.

 

Of course, at the cost of one of these puppies, if this progresses to offer
and acceptance, we will need to get a survey and sea trial done.

 

Can anyone recommend a good surveyor in the area? Someone knowledgeable
about turbo diesels (Lehmans in this case) and other systems typical of big
power boats.

 

I'd rather get a survey from someone recommended, rather than use one the
broker suggests. Or perhaps use the broler's surveyor if he is recommended
by someone on the list.

 

Thanks for your input.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

That doesn't sound like anything that is supposed to happen. I would think
of somebody could flex it from the outside while someone is watching
inside, you should be able to see something. In any event, it seems like
something that might cause it to fall off at some point. I would think it
should be reinforced, or find out why that is happening. Maybe someone had
a hard grounding at some point.

Bill Coleman

On Fri, Mar 18, 2022, 19:31 Stephen Kidd via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Greetings,
>
> I wanted to give an update on the keel wobble on our 25 MKII. It took a
> while for us to get our ducks and the weather in a row, but it gave us time
> to do a lot of reading and research following the leads provided through
> the list. As our next step in investigating the keel wobble, we tightened
> the bolts and checked the keel with the boat in slings. Torquing the bolts
> went smoothly using a torque wrench, torque multiplier and an extra deep
> socket. Before tightening, we backed them up a little, and they all budged
> with between 100 - 150 ft/lbs of torque on the wrench. We were able to
> torque the keel bolts to 350 ft/lbs, and there was no indication of the
> bolt spinning or washers digging into the glass.
>
> We then had the boat lifted in slings, and the keel continued to flex with
> a moderate push with a foot. At this point, I noticed that the flex wasn't
> between the keel and the hull (that was encouraging!), but it was the
> entire hull flexing. I then climbed aboard and asked the very
> accommodating marina manager to wiggle the keel, which he did with vigor.
> The entire bottom of the bilge visibly flexed. Interestingly to me, the
> keel bolts didn't appear to move relative to the rest of the hull,
> everything was in it together. The hull/keel joint actually seems pretty
> solid, so I am glad that we took this step before dropping the keel.
> The hull flexing is something we should have caught right away, but we
> looked right past it because we assumed it was the hull/keel joint.
>
> Even if the hull/keel joint is off the hook for the wobble, from past
> discussions on this list and elsewhere, I suspect this is not a good
> finding. We have seen cases where people have made significant and
> impressive structural repairs, many of which have been referenced here on
> the list, to increase rigidity. The both of us carefully inspected the
> bilge area for signs of cracking or separation, and we have not identified
> anything obvious (untrained eyes). Thus, we would not know what to fix were
> we to go that route. The marina manager is similarly at a loss. I'm also
> not comfortable not knowing why the hull is visibly flexing. At the same
> time, several sailors at the marina suggested that she's probably fine and
> we should just go sailing and keep an eye on it. As tempting as that is,
> that's beyond our comfort zone.
>
> So, that's the general outcome of the wobbly keel investigation. I do have
> a question: Is this a repair that a reasonable person would be able to take
> on? I'm not sure that person would be me, but I do not want to scrap a boat
> that someone could make good use of. Afterall, she has been an incredible
> boat for us and is undeniably an adorable 25' C
>
> Many thanks,
> Stephen
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 2, 2022 at 3:32 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
 Happy New Year! We're hoping to get some insights on an issue we are
> having with our keel. We recently had our 25 MKII hauled for some winter
> projects and were surprised to see that the keel "wiggled" when the boat
> was on the travel lift, a little bit laterally.
>
>
>
> I've uploaded some photos of the keel and the keel bolts
> . Here are some
> observations:
>
> 1) No signs of weeping from the keel joint and no visible separation
> when lifted from the stands.
>
> 2) None of the keel bolts (3 in total) leak.
>
> 3) Crack at the aft end doesn't look typical of the C smile based on
> internet searches.
>
>
>
> Should we torque the keel bolts, grind out the crack, fill (G-flex?),
> fair, and paint, or is this beyond a "smile" fix?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Stephen
>
>
> Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx
Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Stus-List Defender, West, Sea Dog

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

All sold! I hate to see these things going to hedge funds and private
equity. It's not the same as dealing with their founders.

 

FortNine Acquires Defender Industries

*   Gary Reich  
*   1 hour ago

1_DEFENDER

Canadian powersports company FortNine, which sells equipment through an
e-commerce platform, yesterday announced that it acquired Defender
Industries in partnership with private equity firm Novacap.

"FortNine and Defender share a passion for serving sports enthusiasts. We
both have a very loyal customer base who trust our knowledge and experience
to outfit them with the equipment they need," FortNine founder and president
Amin Sawaf said in a statement
 . "It is truly a privilege to acquire a company with such a
stellar reputation, and we look forward to bringing our unique go-to-market
expertise to the marine industry."

Added Defender president Stephan Lance: "The Lance family has been honored
to serve our customers since 1938, and in FortNine, we believe that we have
found the perfect match in our shared values. We are a marine outfitter
staffed by passionate boaters that enable us to deliver on our mission of
great customer service. We are proud to unite with FortNine's team of
enthusiasts to drive Defender into its next stage of expansion."

 

cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

They look like A, but a link to a picture, and this list will remove all 
doubt.

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2022 8:58 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Fred Hazzard
Subject: Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed

 

How can I tell the maker of the hatch’s used on my 1986 C 44?

Fred Hazzard 

S/V Fury

Portland Or. 

Sent from my iPhone





On Feb 17, 2022, at 4:17 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:



The gaskets that A used are EPDM foam cord.   This can be purchased in 3ft, 
10ft, or 100ft lengths from McMaster-Carr at “non-marine” prices.  The 
Landfall 38 hatches use 3/8” diameter foam cord  for the small head/galley 
and 1/2” diameter cord for the larger A hatches.  For the small hatches 
which were repaired first,  I used the A recommended Silaprene Adhesive to 
glue in the gaskets.When I later replaced the gaskets for the larger A 
hatches, I used Dow 795 as the gasket adhesive.   Since I  was using the Dow 
795 for reseating a new hatch lens, I saved on gasket adhesive costs.   The Dow 
795 worked just as good if not better than the Silaprene Adhesive. I highly 
recommend Dow 795 as the gasket adhesive over the Silaprene.  One pay a premium 
for Silaprene as it is not common and very limited in availability whereas a 
10oz cartridge of Dow 795 cost $12 at McMaster-Carr. 





cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Um.  I guess you give it away?

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA



> The only downside is what you do with the 90+ feet of rubber you will have
> left over after you rebuild the hatch.
>
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi C 38 mk1
> la Belle Aurore C 25
> Washington, NC
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Stus-List
> Sent: Feb 12, 2022 1:51 PM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: Bob Mann
> Subject: Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed
>
>
> The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can
> anyone suggest where I can find a replacement? Nothing I've seen at
> hardware stores even comes close to what is already there.
>
> regards,
> Bob Mann
> Mystic
> Detroit
>
>

Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I purchased a roll of 3/8 in diameter foam from McMaster-Carr for that
purpose. So, I used a few feet out of 100 ft roll, but it was way cheaper
than any other option. Of course you have to find a proper adhesive. And I
cannot remember what I used.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Sat, Feb 12, 2022, 14:35 Don Kern via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> Bob
>
> Right now my fwd hatch is at Atkins & Hoyle in Canada for a full refurb.
> They should be able to help.  Brian was very accommodating, his contact
> info below.  I tried a gasket replacement from West Marine and it was a
> little too big in diameter.
>
> Brian Atkins
> Atkins & Hoyle LTD
> 180 Kimmetts side rd
> Napanee Ontario Canada K7R3L2
> Ph. (613) 354 1919
> Fx. (416) 596 8989
> www.AtkinsHoyle.com
>
> Don Kern
> *Fireball,* C Mk2
> Bristol RI
>
> On 2/12/2022 1:51 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
> The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone 
> suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores 
> even comes close to what is already there.
>
> regards,
> Bob Mann
> Mystic
> Detroit
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Long shot: replacement C 36-1 anchor locker hatch/cover

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Back around 1970, I damaged my left front fender (’61 MKII Jag) and as there 
were not many spare fenders sitting around, I used my brothers 58 for a 
pattern. I think I wiped some grease on his, and laid several layers of 
fiberglass, then peeled it off and buffed his fender off. And Bob was my uncle, 
and brother too.

 

Find another 36 to borrow the lid, you could make a female pattern and make 
your final off that.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

From: Wyatt via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2022 8:30 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Wyatt
Subject: Stus-List Long shot: replacement C 36-1 anchor locker hatch/cover

 

Hi all, so the hinges on my anchor locker failed in a rough sea state and I 
lost it unfortunately (1979 C 36-1)…anyone have a lead on where I could 
find a replacement? Otherwise looking at crafting one out of marine plywood and 
fiberglass.

 

Thanks!

Wyatt

Stus-List Canadian Luxury Tax

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

OK, I know I should just get back to work, but this is a very thought
provoking Bill about to take place, 

and it is like watching a slow motion train wreck.

 

The American Version of the 90's may not have been what completely killed
C, but it certainly guaranteed it.

 

What do they say, "Those who do not remember the mistakes of the past are
condemned to repeat them in the future" ?!

It's been about a generation, long enough to forget, I guess. And Canada has
a lot to lose.

 

https://marinefabricatormag.com/2021/12/20/analysis-shows-canadas-proposed-l
uxury-tax-will-have-heavy-impact-on-marine-industry/

 

 

https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1991-06-13-9102220626-story.html

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Board

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Wood Honey - 

And great on Waffles too!

 

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/336473?trk_msg=
BE9M5SDG1L24R902T5DB6HSV8C

_contact=U3UH340HJPEKVHEQPG127NC524_sid=GM9FJ62NKI8U0QBC290VN8MP30
rk_link=RBJ21RQJH9P47EJUALCI4QGCHS_source=listrak_medium=email_t
erm=TotalBoat%20Wood%20Honey_campaign=Weekly%20Feature%20-%20January%202
022_content=TB%20Wood%20Honey

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I have to agree with Dwight on the backing plates, ESPECIALLY the aft most one, 
I think. It looks like they cut the edges off the stack of washers, so the nut 
would fit in that tight space with a socket. I can see where the washers 
rotated with the tightening, and are chewing into the fiberglass big time. 
Maybe a 3/8” plate that just fits into that space, then either a short piece of 
heavywall SS Pipe as a spacer and then a couple washers, or take that stack of 
washers and orient them correctly, and compress them with a bolt onto the 
backing plate, and have a welder fuse them together with a TIG without getting 
it too hot. Just enough to keep them from rotating. Then put in back in and 
tighten it up to specs.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2022 11:31 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

 

You can fix that. Yes grind it out and clean surfaces well with acetone soaked 
rags. Use a brush and apply West system epoxy to cleaned surfaces. The fill the 
gap(s) with silica thickened epoxy putty.  Then a couple of layers of epoxy 
soaked glass matte. Grind to shaped and fair with polyester resin like 
lightweight car body filler. Torque keel bolts to spec before the crack repair 
and replace the washers with larger 3/8 inch stainless steel backing plates. 

 

On Sun, Jan 2, 2022 at 3:32 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Happy New Year! We're hoping to get some insights on an issue we are having 
with our keel. We recently had our 25 MKII hauled for some winter projects and 
were surprised to see that the keel "wiggled" when the boat was on the travel 
lift, a little bit laterally. 

 

I've uploaded some photos of   the 
keel and the keel bolts. Here are some observations:

1) No signs of weeping from the keel joint and no visible separation when 
lifted from the stands.

2) None of the keel bolts (3 in total) leak. 

3) Crack at the aft end doesn't look typical of the C smile based on internet 
searches.

 

Should we torque the keel bolts, grind out the crack, fill (G-flex?), fair, and 
paint, or is this beyond a "smile" fix? 

 

Thanks!

Stephen

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C to race - cold weather discussion topic

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Don't kid yourself-even with the longer rudder they are still amazing
broachers! We've had several, including one spectacular one+

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Sun, Dec 12, 2021, 1:19 AM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> More often than not both bloopers and staysails seemed to add a quarter
> knot going up and a quarter knot coming down.
>
>
>
> One of the best uses of a blooper I experienced early on was during the
> windy 1977 Transpac. The C 39 I was on still had the original short, low
> aspect ratio rudder and small diameter steering wheel.
>
> In typical trade wind conditions, sailing as close to DDW as possible, the
> blooper helped balance the sail plan pulling the bow back down when the
> boat was thinking of taking a hard swing to weather.
>
>
>
> Those short C 39 rudders embarrassed more that a few helmsmen.  Here in
> the PNW, back in the late 70’s there was  4 or 5 C 39’s actively racing
> and competitive.  A local sailmaker and rockstar helmsman named Scott
> Rohrer (an acquaintance of mine still) was at the helm of a 39 a few boat
> lengths behind us. We all had spinnakers up but the conditions were
> deteriorating. As the 39 Scott was driving began performing the death roll,
> we could hear Scott yelling “I got it, I got it..” just before his boat
> spun hard to weather in a full broach.
>
>
>
> For a long time we called Scott “Rodeo Rohrer” as in “going to the rodeo
> for a roundup”.  PNW C 39s with the short rudder got a reputation as
> “broach coaches” until they received the rudder upgrade.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C 43
>
> Port Ludlow/Seattle
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Saturday, December 11, 2021 4:52 PM
> *To: *Stus-List 
> *Cc: *Fred Hazzard 
> *Subject: *Stus-List Re: C to race - cold weather discussion topic
>
>
>
> That all sounds good except the blooper.
>
> My recollection of using the blooper on my one tonner  was, we went a
> quarter knot faster when we put it up and quarter knot faster when we took
> it down. The best thing about it was that it kept the crew ingaged trying
> to keep it full and out of the water.
>
> 
>
> Fred Hazzard
>
> S/V Fury
>
> C 44
>
> Portland Or
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Dec 11, 2021, at 3:43 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Martin, do I remember correctly; wasn't your boat originally Esta Es from
> Lake Michigan?
>
> Ron
>
> Wild Cheri
>
> C 30-1
>
> STL
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, November 30, 2021, 01:51:01 AM CST, Martin DeYoung via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> I would go back to a C 39, tall rig, deep rudder and the light weight
> Atomic 4 aux engine. Prep it to be fully optimized for its PNW PHRF rating
> but include a “penalty pole” and blooper for those long DDW legs. I would
> also want the upgraded winch package that included the Barient titanium
> drum 3 speed primary winches.
>
> Back in the late 70’s the 39s did well in the typical light air races that
> were long enough to experience several changes of current that could keep a
> crew of 6 out for 24 to 36 hours in relative comfort. If the wind came up
> it could still go upwind without the whole neighborhood camped out on the
> rail.
>
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Port Ludlow/Seattle
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37/40R for sale

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

And the keel on it don’t look like the keel in the drawring above it.

It looks eerily similar to the keel of a Beneteau 40 First.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2021 2:02 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Ken Heaton
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 37/40R for sale

 

That is a very unique C 37R.  It was the 14th 37R built, called Wave Trane, 
and it had quite a number of factory modifications to make it stronger and 
stiffer than the usual C 37R.  As an example, all bulkheads were tabbed to 
the deck from below, not usual for the 37R.  There are a set of drawings at the 
Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston, just for that boat.

 

It also has a weird looking one off custom keel designed by Britton Chance Jr., 
designer of America’s Cup Boats among other things, which explains why there 
are so many keel bolts.  Some info here: 
http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/boat-design-c-37r-designer-robert-ball.html

 

Some of the links there, to download the drawings, aren't working just now, 
Google changed something.  I'll see if I can get that linking cleared up this 
evening.

 

Ken H.

 

 

 

On Tue, 7 Dec 2021 at 23:07, Ian Matthew via CnC-List  
wrote:

A friend of mine who sails with me on my C 29-1 has seen this boat and may be 
interested.  Anyone got any comments to make that would be helpful to him.

 

He's here in San Francisco and the boat is in BC so that's one problem

 

1989 C   40R 
Plus 37R Racer/Cruiser for sale - YachtWorld

 

Thanks

 

Ian Matthew

"Siento el Viento"  C 29-1

San Francisco Bay

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 12 volt DC power supply

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

This is what I use, it is sweet on many levels.

 

https://powerwerx.com/variable-power-supply-digital-meters-30amp

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2021 3:39 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List 12 volt DC power supply

 

Over the years, I've found a need for 12 volt power.  For instance, if I wanted 
to test a marine GPS or VHF.  My answer is usually to attach wires with 
alligators clips to the battery in my truck or to a 12 volt jump starter.  This 
is less than ideal..

 

I know there are inexpensive 120 VAC/12 volt power supplies out there.  I see 
them on eBay, Amazon, etc.  Many are just a box with no 120 VAC wire and plug.  
Like this:

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/RS-15-12?qs=ql1K%252BkDau3qz9%252BonMzIW2g%3D%3D
 

 =1

 

Ideally, I would like one that already has the 120 VAC cord and has a terminal 
strip to insert the stripped power wires of the device I'm testing.  Can some 
of you hobbyists point me towards an inexpensive but decent power supply?  It 
need not be powerful.  10 watts would probably suffice.


 

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

First off, I would like to thank Joe for overstating the obvious – 

I had found the site, but the thought of Verbaling them (Gasp) and actually 
buying from them had never occurred to me. I figured I would have to go through 
their distributors, etc – 

But when I called, the nice lady told me that would be John who was gone, call 
tomorrow, which I did, and he actually answered and asked me a few questions 
and Viola, I now have an identical replacement!

Like you say, not that I can do anything if the frequency is off, but I just 
don’t want to have a burnt out display. Just doesn’t look good.

Now I think I will need the Volts Display!

Thanks Joe - 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2021 12:27 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

 

The frequency should be 60 Hz, period. The way the power grid works would cause 
an emergency disconnect of your local generator from the grid if it gets off of 
60 or a disconnect of your grid ties to the wider world. The results of not 
doing this can include your local power plant physically coming apart.

If you saw a low frequency from a shore power connection something is very 
wrong somewhere. The only readings I have ever seen from shore power are 59.9, 
60, and 60.1.

(A very quick explanation, any generator is a motor and vice-vera. Commercial 
power plants are all connected together, so if one gets out of synch all the 
other ones can try and force it to do something like speed way up or turn the 
other direction, which would have disastrous results for anyone standing near 
it)

 

The company that made your meter is here:

Brighton Electronics

sa...@beimeter.com 

503-624-7116 

866-837-8371 

 

I bet if you give them a call they can point you at a place to get another one.

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2021 11:46 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

 

If it is there, I would like it working, is all.

It was interesting to watch the progress of the Frequency coming back up, along 
with volts, as I was trying to bring life into four large, nearly dead 
batteries at Jabins a few years ago – took a few days, pulling through a 150 
foot extension cord on the hard.

I just thought if someone had replaced a similar volt or ammeter they might 
have a good source. Have not had much luck on Flea Bay.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

There are tons and tons of them on Amazon and FleaBay, but matching the size is 
tricky. Also note that a frequency meter for shore power is a bit odd, what are 
you going to do if it is wrong? Call the power company?

99% of the time I see them on boats with generators or sometimes boats that 
travel to places that might have 50Hz power.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

 

 

Does anyone have a source for the Panel Meters, specifically a frequency meter 
for shore power? The manufacturer is Brighton Electronics, altho still around, 
They don't seem to sell retail. The Cutout hole is 2 3/8" x 15/16" ( 60 mm X 
23.8).

FrequencyMeter.jpg

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Burnished bottom paint

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

There is some chatter amongst some designers of Catamarans, like Crowther and 
the Gunboat, but I can’t find any pix.

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2021 4:42 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Stus-List Re: Burnished bottom paint

 

 

So a deleterious effect despite the increased WLL

On Wed, Dec 1, 2021 at 5:25 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Found this in Sailing Anarchy – 

Back to the drawing board.

Bulbous bows are designed to "cancel" out the hull's bow wave by inducing their 
own wave set that has the same frequency, but opposite phase, thereby reducing 
wave making resistance.

 

To make this work, the boat's speed has be within a very tight specified range 
and the amplitude of the pitching moment has be  relatively small to keep the 
bulb at the proper depth.

 

Neither of these conditions can be met on a small-ish hull form. The additional 
wetted surface and form drag eats you up.

 

Was tried in the 70's on 6 Meters and flopped horribly.

 

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2021 4:14 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Stus-List Re: Burnished bottom paint

 

Would a bulbous bow below the waterline help

 

On Tue, Nov 30, 2021 at 9:31 PM schiller via CnC-List  
wrote:

No, but we did add "turbulators" to the tail section of the GBU-24 Bunker 
Buster Guided Bomb to break up the boundary layer between the bomb body and the 
wing section, causing turbulent flow over the wings.

Neil Schiller
1983 C #5-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan

On 11/30/2021 6:05 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:

Indeed.  You don't see dimples on the wings of aircraft, for a good reason...

Graham Collins
CS 36T

On 2021-11-30 3:50 p.m., Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:

 

On Nov 30, 2021, at 1:47 PM, Doug via CnC-List  wrote:

 

This is the reason golf balls have dimples. Aides in better flight, less 
resistance.  

 

 

 

 

Yes (if spinning) and No (as it adds lateral resistance).

 

Going with a smooth surface is the overall best approach as it promotes smooth 
laminar flow.   There are times when a ruff surface helps maintain laminar 
flow.  For example, the dimples on a golf ball create a thin turbulent layer 
which drags air and helps keep the lamina flow closer to the surface behind the 
ball.  The dimples add resistance to the flow but reduces the air wake behind 
the ball which reduces the overall drag force.  The laminar flow around a 
smooth ball does not wrap around the back of the ball as well and leaves a 
larger wake.  The larger the wake, the larger the drag. 

 

I think it would be foolish to add dimples or an orange peel bottom, unless you 
have the resources to model and measure the effect for a particular boat.  
Maybe adding some aft ruffness as the hull as turns inward, but this will 
strongly depend on the individual hull shape and likely have a positive effect 
at high water speeds (and a negative effect at low).   Of course, a great way 
to reduce one's wake is to foil.

 

Most may recall that dimples of a spinning golf ball help in another and bigger 
way by providing lift(i.e. aids in better flight).  The spinning dimples drag 
air towards incoming flow and drag air away from the flow on the opposite side 
causing a high/low pressure difference (i.e.  lateral lift force).   This 
latter effect has not yet been exploited by sailors.   Who knows, maybe we’ll 
see a spinning belted keel in the future driven by Kiwi’s pedal power.  

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

 

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Burnished bottom paint

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Found this in Sailing Anarchy – 

Back to the drawing board.

Bulbous bows are designed to "cancel" out the hull's bow wave by inducing their 
own wave set that has the same frequency, but opposite phase, thereby reducing 
wave making resistance.

 

To make this work, the boat's speed has be within a very tight specified range 
and the amplitude of the pitching moment has be  relatively small to keep the 
bulb at the proper depth.

 

Neither of these conditions can be met on a small-ish hull form. The additional 
wetted surface and form drag eats you up.

 

Was tried in the 70's on 6 Meters and flopped horribly.

 

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2021 4:14 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Stus-List Re: Burnished bottom paint

 

Would a bulbous bow below the waterline help

 

On Tue, Nov 30, 2021 at 9:31 PM schiller via CnC-List  
wrote:

No, but we did add "turbulators" to the tail section of the GBU-24 Bunker 
Buster Guided Bomb to break up the boundary layer between the bomb body and the 
wing section, causing turbulent flow over the wings.

Neil Schiller
1983 C #5-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan

On 11/30/2021 6:05 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:

Indeed.  You don't see dimples on the wings of aircraft, for a good reason...

Graham Collins
CS 36T

On 2021-11-30 3:50 p.m., Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:

 

On Nov 30, 2021, at 1:47 PM, Doug via CnC-List  wrote:

 

This is the reason golf balls have dimples. Aides in better flight, less 
resistance.  

 

 

 

 

Yes (if spinning) and No (as it adds lateral resistance).

 

Going with a smooth surface is the overall best approach as it promotes smooth 
laminar flow.   There are times when a ruff surface helps maintain laminar 
flow.  For example, the dimples on a golf ball create a thin turbulent layer 
which drags air and helps keep the lamina flow closer to the surface behind the 
ball.  The dimples add resistance to the flow but reduces the air wake behind 
the ball which reduces the overall drag force.  The laminar flow around a 
smooth ball does not wrap around the back of the ball as well and leaves a 
larger wake.  The larger the wake, the larger the drag. 

 

I think it would be foolish to add dimples or an orange peel bottom, unless you 
have the resources to model and measure the effect for a particular boat.  
Maybe adding some aft ruffness as the hull as turns inward, but this will 
strongly depend on the individual hull shape and likely have a positive effect 
at high water speeds (and a negative effect at low).   Of course, a great way 
to reduce one's wake is to foil.

 

Most may recall that dimples of a spinning golf ball help in another and bigger 
way by providing lift(i.e. aids in better flight).  The spinning dimples drag 
air towards incoming flow and drag air away from the flow on the opposite side 
causing a high/low pressure difference (i.e.  lateral lift force).   This 
latter effect has not yet been exploited by sailors.   Who knows, maybe we’ll 
see a spinning belted keel in the future driven by Kiwi’s pedal power.  

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

 

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

If it is there, I would like it working, is all.

It was interesting to watch the progress of the Frequency coming back up, along 
with volts, as I was trying to bring life into four large, nearly dead 
batteries at Jabins a few years ago – took a few days, pulling through a 150 
foot extension cord on the hard.

I just thought if someone had replaced a similar volt or ammeter they might 
have a good source. Have not had much luck on Flea Bay.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

There are tons and tons of them on Amazon and FleaBay, but matching the size is 
tricky. Also note that a frequency meter for shore power is a bit odd, what are 
you going to do if it is wrong? Call the power company?

99% of the time I see them on boats with generators or sometimes boats that 
travel to places that might have 50Hz power.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

 

 

Does anyone have a source for the Panel Meters, specifically a frequency meter 
for shore power? The manufacturer is Brighton Electronics, altho still around, 
They don't seem to sell retail. The Cutout hole is 2 3/8" x 15/16" ( 60 mm X 
23.8).

FrequencyMeter.jpg

 

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Digital Panel Meter

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a source for the Panel Meters, specifically a frequency meter 
for shore power? The manufacturer is Brighton Electronics, altho still around, 
They don't seem to sell retail. The Cutout hole is 2 3/8" x 15/16" ( 60 mm X 
23.8).

FrequencyMeter.jpg

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Marine Museum

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Yes, but we unwashed gringos still have to provide a Covid test – 

O, but for the simpler days.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, November 19, 2021 2:16 PM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Stus-List Marine Museum

 

I received this invitation in the mail today:

 



You are cordially invited to attend our special Open House event on Monday 6 
December from 5 to 7pm at 55 Ontario St., Kingston, Ontario.

 

Thanks to your generous support, we are delighted to announce that the Marine 
Museum has moved home and our doors are now open. Our storefront gallery is 
open in the front lobby and our new  

 guided tours of the  

 Kingston Dry Dock and Pumphouse 

  National Historic Site are available for booking.

 

To celebrate this momentous occasion and express our thanks for your support, 
we invite you to join us for an evening of celebration. Come by to witness the 
developments, meet the team and celebrate the achievements you have made 
possible. Beer, wine and appetizers will be served.

 

To ensure the safety of staff and visitors, the following COVID-19 protocols 
are in place;

· Proof of full vaccination (or exemption) will be required

· Contact tracing will be in place

· Masks must be worn except when you're actively eating or drinking

· Hand sanitizer will be made available

 

Please RSVP by Friday 3 December at 5pm.

 

We look forward to welcoming you back in person.

 

Chris

 

Chris West

Marine Museum Chair

 




   

 





 

 RSVP

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Whisker pole with a 37/40+?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I can’t believe you don’t have a topping lift – right around your upper 
spreader? Take a look with some binoculars. 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2021 5:18 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Re: Whisker pole with a 37/40+?

 

Thanks everyone for the insights.  I had a feeling that using the ring I showed 
was a bad idea, but I had to ask.  Now another related question - What do you 
use for a topping lift on the pole?  We have a main halyard, jib/genoa halyard 
and two spinnaker halyards on the boat.  How would one rig the topping lift for 
the whisker pole?

 

As to the reason why I am considering this, down here in Tampa, most of our 
days result in 10 kts. of wind or less, and I keep the 150% Genoa on the roller 
furler year round.  We only occasionally have to reef the main and/or roll up 
the Genny because we're overpowered.  So, there are days I want to fly a large 
asymmetrical instead, but I commonly find myself wanting it poled out for 
better performance.   

 

I'm not a racer and more often than not daysail, though we want to cruise up & 
down the coast of Florida more over the next few years.  

 

Thoughts?

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"

Madeira Beach, FL

 

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Whisker pole with a 37/40+?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Looks like the PO took that pin with the ring on it and turned it upside down 
when he had that barbaric looking Tack clevis with the hooks made. (sorry)

Seems like that would be a little low for a Whisker/Spin Pole to me. Is there 
any reason you couldn’t just attached a ring to the front of the mast?

I put a long Harken track on the front of my mast to store the pole, it worked 
great to store it and deploy it.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2021 9:28 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Whisker pole with a 37/40+?

 

Hello all,

 

I was wondering if you folks can give me some advice as to rigging a whisker 
pole on our 37/40+.  The boat, which has spent a good part of its time on the 
west coast of Florida, was previously named "Dagny" and saw its share of races. 
 Yet, the boat does not have a whisker pole ring/car on the front of the mast, 
and does not have a whisker pole onboard.  Nor does it have the equipment for a 
spinnaker pole, though the boat came with a symmetrical spinnaker.

 

I'd like to rig a whisker pole for use with our 150 Genoa and a large 
asymmetrical spinnaker.  

 

Funny thing is, at the gooseneck, there is a bolt that holds the two pieces 
together that has a ring mounted at the bottom.  I don't think it would get the 
perfect angle, but would it be that easy to rig the pole to that ring?  A photo 
of that bolt/ring can be found here:  

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/re5kalfn9slfidr/Gooseneck%20Fitting.jpg?dl=0

 

The 150 and the asymmetrical will both have the clew behind the mast most if 
not all the time I would be using it.  In the case of the big asymmetrical, I 
think it might be so far back as to bank up against the rigging, though 
obviously I haven't used one on this boat as of yet.

 

Can anyone provide any insights?  

 

Thank you!!!




Bruce Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"

Madeira Beach, FL

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Haul Out Question

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

The drum comes up with it. Pretty hard to take it apart. I bring a heavy
towel or blanket, and wrap it around the drum a few times, and tape it up
so it doesn't scuff the deck up

Bill

On Sat, Nov 13, 2021, 8:44 AM Brian Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello CnCers,
>
> I’m hauling out for the winter at a new boat yard. I’m having the mast
> pulled to do some work. I’ve never pulled the mast with the furling drum. I
> was wondering if the drum stays attached to the forestay, remains on the
> bow or is completely removed. Appreciate any responses.
>
> Thanks
> Brian C. Morrison
> 1979 C 34
> Rekofa
> Fells Point, MD
>
> On Nov 12, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Matthew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Not only cheaper and faster, Schaefer makes quality, robust products.
>
>
>
> *From:* Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, November 12, 2021 1:40 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Jim Watts 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves
>
>
>
> The boom sheaves are a stock Schaefer item. They were OEM parts. Cheapest
> and probably fastest option.
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Wifi antenna at top of mast

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

http://www.wavewifi.com/

Bill

On Wed, Nov 10, 2021, 6:18 AM DJ via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hi all,
> I think someone mentioned having an antenna at the top of the mast that
> helps pull in distant wifi signals.  Can anyone point me in the direction
> of a product that would help with picking up wifi while on the hook?
>
> Is it a 2 part system?  One to receive the signal at the top of mast
> connecting to another,  in the boat, that transmits?
>
> Danny
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I have some 2” Delrin sheaves that were grooved a little deeper than I like,
They are ½” Thick. With the ½” bronze bushing the axle would be 3/8” .
$8.00 each + Shipping.  I can send Pictures if interested.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2021 2:58 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: Rod Stright
Subject: Stus-List Source for sheaves

 

I am looking for some 2” sheaves for the end of my boom (4).  I believe the
old ones were Delrin or some sort of plastic and the sun took its tool.  I
believe someone had a very good source for sheaves on the list.

 

Rod Stright

Halifax

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Main halyard shackle

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

A snap shackle on a halyard is not likely to fit through a headboard, or in my 
case where there is a snap shackle spliced on the jib halyard, I flipped it 
sideways (not used) and put a regular shackle on B/C the snap shackle won’t fit 
through the roller furler casting. I think snap shackles are mostly intended to 
be attached to a sail ring.

If you have a snap shackle on the main halyard, you may likely have a regular 
shackle on your headboard, which of course will work. Just lowers your main a 
couple inches.

Not sure why you take the halyard off every time?

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2021 7:52 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Main halyard shackle

 

My boat came with a main halyard shackle of a type I have never seen anywhere 
else.  It has a pivoting arm that swings up after inserting through the 
headboard and secured with a threaded pin.  It has worked fine for years and 
easy to remove and attach, which I do routinely when done sailing for the day.  
Recently, I twice found it nearly completely unscrewed after a day of rough 
weather sailing, and that is concerning.  I don’t want to lose the halyard up 
the mast.  I am considering replacing it this winter with a standard snap 
shackle of the sort used on my genoa halyard.  I looked at a rigging company 
web site and they used snap shackles for genoa halyards and pin shackles for 
main halyards.  The logic of that escapes me.   On my boat, I take down the 
roller furling genoa only a few times a season while the main halyard is 
detached every time I go sailing.  I have no idea what the forces are on the 
main halyard but I would not think much greater than the genoa.  Any words of 
wisdom, or reason not to use a snap shackle for the main?  Thanks- Dave

 

David Knecht

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Perry on Ball

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

♪  You can check out any time you like, 

♫But you can never leave! ♪

 

 

From: Paul Nixon via CnCList [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2021 3:24 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Paul Nixon
Subject: Stus-List Re: Perry on Ball

 

How do I get off this list? 

Paul

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Perry on Ball

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Not sure who all was present or have watched replays of the 2 hr Zoom Interview 
Bob Perry did with Rob Ball , but it was worth the time. Kind of reminded me of 
the David Rubenstein Peer to Peer interviews.

 

I was great to get insight from two of the best boat designers of our 
generation – and Perry will soon be doing some other designers.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Poli-Glow question

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I think you're right to go back to the gelcoat, but as far as temperature,
if the what you're inquiring about, I would call the manufacturer, the're
pretty friendly that way

Bill Coleman

On Sun, Oct 31, 2021, 8:27 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Got a Poli-Glow question.
> I didn't apply Poli-Glow on the hull for two years and recently noticed
> some peeling.  I hope to try using Poli-Strip but thought I'd ask the group
> for tips.   Is there any temperature minimum?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I have read that a poor man’s Prop Speed is to spray some Zinc Primer on the 
shaft and prop every spring.

Haven’t tried it myself, but I will when my Prop Speed wears away.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 


Subject: Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

 

First full season for me with my C 34 and I used Interlux Micron CSC, as 
that’s what the previous owner ’thought’ was on it when I bought it. A good 
friend has also used it on his Tartan 3700 for years with good results.

 

I used 2 to 3 coats after a light sanding of the previous coat(s) and it has 
worked very well. Five months moored in the Northwest Arm in Halifax NS and it 
was surprisingly super clean when it came out at end of season… a little green 
scum in places but that’s it! Stainless prop shaft was caked with barnacles and 
growth, so I’m guessing bottom paint worked great where it was applied!

 

Does anyone  coat their stainless prop shaft (or brass folding prop) with 
bottom paint?

 

Dean

 

 

On Oct 25, 2021, at 9:17 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Hi Bill- Can you clarify what you used?  I looked at the Pettit site and there 
was nothing called Odyssey Trinidad.  There was an Odyssey Triton?   Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT


 





On Oct 23, 2021, at 2:16 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

I know this subject is as old as boats, but I think I commented in the spring 
that I was trying a brand new paint and would report in the fall, so here it 
is.  It is raining and chilly and not much else going on in the NE, so . ..

 

The paint is Pettit Odyssey Trinidad, and when I hauled a week ago the results 
were nothing less than amazing. All of the clubs haul out guys (and girl) were 
in awe, and said it was the cleanest boat the have hauled this year.

 

There was some scum from the bow back amidships and going down a few inches, 
mostly on the north side, oddly enough.  But the rest was amazingly clean. Of 
note, here in the Great Lakes over the last 10 years or so there has been some 
new growth that no one seems to know anything about, looks like a spider web 
growing all over the bottom, and there was NONE of that. No Zebra Mussels, 
nothing.

It is called ablative, but it is nowhere near as ablative as the previous 
year’s paint, very little came off with the pressure washer. Also, it called 
for two initial coats, I only used one. It goes on nice, and what I liked is 
that there is no heavy copper falling out, you don’t seem to need to keep 
stirring it as you go. In fact, I don’t think it has copper as we know it, 
Three Ingredients, Copper Thiocyanate, Econea, and Zinc Pyrithione.   I 
wouldn’t consider it a racing paint, but after a month, I might. One of the 
guys hauled his First 40 out and cleaned it (VC17) for the last race two weeks 
before his final haulout, and his bottom was a mess, complete with ‘spiderwebs’ 
and Zebra Mussels. He was amazed to see how much scum was back on 2 weeks later.

 

I think it’s the Zinc . .  . .Also, a $30 rebate going on.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Dwight,

 

It’s been quite a few years since I got my setup finely polished, but I do 
remember this little tidbit from one of the Raymarine techs that made it work 
better – 

 

Lee Tang of Raymarine told me upon upgrading the 80CRC to change the AUTOPILOT 
setting to 5000  Whl  when I add the rudder sensor. 
This helped a LOT.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2021 12:31 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

 

Same for my 4000 plus. It needed the rudder sensor to work at all. What a PITA 
installing the rudder sensor was. When the Raymarine 4000 plus works well on my 
boat I can use it to steer the boat straight upwind to hoist the mainsail and I 
can use it while motoring but it seems to adjust too much when sailing off the 
wind so I just don’t use it for that. 

 

On Sun, Oct 24, 2021 at 8:02 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

That's what I was wondering about. When I bought my 4000 Plus, the sales guy at 
defender said I didn't need the rudder feedback unit. But it was pretty 
worthless and I was very disappointed. Once I put the rudder feedback unit in, 
it worked brilliantly. The brains need to know where the rudder is otherwise 
it's just shooting in the dark. I wouldn't want to  dissuade you from going to 
the hydraulic unit, as they are definitely superior. But I think you would be 
very surprised at how good it would work with the 4000 Plus and a rudder 
feedback.

 

Bill Coleman

 

On Sun, Oct 24, 2021, 4:45 PM Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Bill,

My manual and technical records are  on the boat so I had to google “rudder 
feedback arm”. Ete’ does not have a separate one. All feedback signaling 
appears to happen via the wheel apparatus and dealt with in the control head. 
As arms are readily  available new I would guess that they are used in more 
current models. My Autohelm Wheel Pilot is quite old - 20 years? Shortly after 
I bought the boat in 2015 I looked into replacing the autopilot. I remember 
that the latest wheel units were rated for no heavier a boat. It’s at that 
point that I realized I would need to spring for and shoehorn in an under deck 
unit. An engine replacement and compartment refit in 2019 put that item off  a 
couple of years. I hope this helps. 

 

Hans R

S/V Ete’

1982 C

 

Sent from my iPhone





On Oct 24, 2021, at 12:10 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:



Hans, does your 4000 unit have the rudder feedback arm?

Bill

 

On Sun, Oct 24, 2021, 1:52 PM Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Chuck,

My 1982 C came with the older Autohelm 4000 (Raymarine) autopilot. The  
unit is supposedly not that different than the latest model you are 
considering. Mine is inadequate downwind even in our relatively protected 
central Puget Sound waters. It is affected by more than wind speed - random 
puffs, wind shifts, crossing wave patterns,  large boat wakes, boat roll, etc. 
All give it panic attacks  and me the need for a beer once I am safely back on 
the dock.若 As the wind rises to the upper teens the unit is often inadequate 
upwind. As the wind rises further into the twenties I have found the unit to be 
useless. More experienced friends and marine tech sorts are not surprised. 
Fancy that. As my budget allows I plan to install a below deck unit, hydraulic 
or direct drive. That will be a bit of fun. FWIW, at 16-18K lbs. loaded, my 
boat is over the recommended displacement for the Autohelm wheel unit. I 
believe yours is similar. I have had to replace the little SSTL drive pins 
often. I’ve also changed drive belts and otherwise kept the unit well 
maintained and clean. I mostly singlehand and a strong, reliable autopilot is 
critical to my continued use of the boat. I am 70, reasonably fit and grew up 
around smaller boats and stupidly self-endangering marine situations  but am 
no champion or truly experienced old sea dog. 

So … happily not dead yet. 

Twixt and ‘tween is not a generally happy place to be in, so …

All the best,

Hans R

S/V Ete’   1982 C

Shilshole Bay Marina

Seatlle 

 

Sent from my iPhone





On Oct 22, 2021, at 12:13 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Chuck
minor typo!  Fat fingers!! - should have been 20 kts not 29.
Don

On 10/22/2021 2:51 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List wrote:

Chuck

I have a C 35 Mk2 that has the older Raymarine ST4000 autopilot which is 
being used at its upper limits.  It does Ok up to about 20kts on Narra Bay, 
Buzzards Bay and Long Island Sound.  Have never engaged it above 20 kts. The 
only problem I have had is the the three plastic "U" brackets that connect the 
unit to the helms spoke have cracked and needed to be replaced.  I think this 
was due to the Edson pedestal's brake which has become none functional and I 
initially used the Autohelm to lock the rudder when at anchor/mooring.  Not too 
smart!!

Don Kern
Fireb

Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Triton, Trinidad, 220, 221, whatever it takes!

 

Yes, Triton, sorry.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSoORXWLzSA

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2021 7:59 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

 

Hi Bill- Can you clarify what you used?  I looked at the Pettit site and there 
was nothing called Odyssey Trinidad.  There was an Odyssey Triton?   Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








On Oct 23, 2021, at 2:16 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

I know this subject is as old as boats, but I think I commented in the spring 
that I was trying a brand new paint and would report in the fall, so here it 
is.  It is raining and chilly and not much else going on in the NE, so . ..

 

The paint is Pettit Odyssey Trinidad, and when I hauled a week ago the results 
were nothing less than amazing. All of the clubs haul out guys (and girl) were 
in awe, and said it was the cleanest boat the have hauled this year.

 

There was some scum from the bow back amidships and going down a few inches, 
mostly on the north side, oddly enough.  But the rest was amazingly clean. Of 
note, here in the Great Lakes over the last 10 years or so there has been some 
new growth that no one seems to know anything about, looks like a spider web 
growing all over the bottom, and there was NONE of that. No Zebra Mussels, 
nothing.

It is called ablative, but it is nowhere near as ablative as the previous 
year’s paint, very little came off with the pressure washer. Also, it called 
for two initial coats, I only used one. It goes on nice, and what I liked is 
that there is no heavy copper falling out, you don’t seem to need to keep 
stirring it as you go. In fact, I don’t think it has copper as we know it, 
Three Ingredients, Copper Thiocyanate, Econea, and Zinc Pyrithione.   I 
wouldn’t consider it a racing paint, but after a month, I might. One of the 
guys hauled his First 40 out and cleaned it (VC17) for the last race two weeks 
before his final haulout, and his bottom was a mess, complete with ‘spiderwebs’ 
and Zebra Mussels. He was amazed to see how much scum was back on 2 weeks later.

 

I think it’s the Zinc . .  . .Also, a $30 rebate going on.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

That's what I was wondering about. When I bought my 4000 Plus, the sales
guy at defender said I didn't need the rudder feedback unit. But it was
pretty worthless and I was very disappointed. Once I put the rudder
feedback unit in, it worked brilliantly. The brains need to know where the
rudder is otherwise it's just shooting in the dark. I wouldn't want to
dissuade you from going to the hydraulic unit, as they are definitely
superior. But I think you would be very surprised at how good it would work
with the 4000 Plus and a rudder feedback.

Bill Coleman

On Sun, Oct 24, 2021, 4:45 PM Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bill,
> My manual and technical records are  on the boat so I had to google
> “rudder feedback arm”. Ete’ does not have a separate one. All feedback
> signaling appears to happen via the wheel apparatus and dealt with in the
> control head. As arms are readily  available new I would guess that they
> are used in more current models. My Autohelm Wheel Pilot is quite old - 20
> years? Shortly after I bought the boat in 2015 I looked into replacing the
> autopilot. I remember that the latest wheel units were rated for no heavier
> a boat. It’s at that point that I realized I would need to spring for and
> shoehorn in an under deck unit. An engine replacement and compartment refit
> in 2019 put that item off  a couple of years. I hope this helps.
>
> Hans R
> S/V Ete’
> 1982 C
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 24, 2021, at 12:10 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Hans, does your 4000 unit have the rudder feedback arm?
>
> Bill
>
> On Sun, Oct 24, 2021, 1:52 PM Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Chuck,
>> My 1982 C came with the older Autohelm 4000 (Raymarine) autopilot.
>> The  unit is supposedly not that different than the latest model you are
>> considering. Mine is inadequate downwind even in our relatively protected
>> central Puget Sound waters. It is affected by more than wind speed - random
>> puffs, wind shifts, crossing wave patterns,  large boat wakes, boat roll,
>> etc. All give it panic attacks  and me the need for a beer once I am
>> safely back on the dock.若 As the wind rises to the upper teens the unit is
>> often inadequate upwind. As the wind rises further into the twenties I have
>> found the unit to be useless. More experienced friends and marine tech
>> sorts are not surprised. Fancy that. As my budget allows I plan to install
>> a below deck unit, hydraulic or direct drive. That will be a bit of fun.
>> FWIW, at 16-18K lbs. loaded, my boat is over the recommended displacement
>> for the Autohelm wheel unit. I believe yours is similar. I have had to
>> replace the little SSTL drive pins often. I’ve also changed drive belts and
>> otherwise kept the unit well maintained and clean. I mostly singlehand and
>> a strong, reliable autopilot is critical to my continued use of the boat. I
>> am 70, reasonably fit and grew up around smaller boats and stupidly
>> self-endangering marine situations  but am no champion or truly
>> experienced old sea dog.
>> So … happily not dead yet. 
>> Twixt and ‘tween is not a generally happy place to be in, so …
>> All the best,
>> Hans R
>> S/V Ete’   1982 C
>> Shilshole Bay Marina
>> Seatlle
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 22, 2021, at 12:13 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>  Chuck
>> minor typo!  Fat fingers!! - should have been 20 kts not 29.
>> Don
>>
>> On 10/22/2021 2:51 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>> I have a C 35 Mk2 that has the older Raymarine ST4000 autopilot which
>> is being used at its upper limits.  It does Ok up to about 20kts on Narra
>> Bay, Buzzards Bay and Long Island Sound.  Have never engaged it above 20
>> kts. The only problem I have had is the the three plastic "U" brackets that
>> connect the unit to the helms spoke have cracked and needed to be
>> replaced.  I think this was due to the Edson pedestal's brake which has
>> become none functional and I initially used the Autohelm to lock the rudder
>> when at anchor/mooring.  Not too smart!!
>>
>> Don Kern
>> *Fireball, *C Mk2
>> Bristol, RI
>>
>>
>> On 10/22/2021 12:10 PM, Novabraid via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> I’m contemplating adding a new wheel mount auto pilot (Raymarine EV-100)
>> on my 1983 Landfall 35, equipped with an Edson 737 dual lever engine
>> control (the type with the two extra stainless tubes that carry the control
>&g

Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Hans, does your 4000 unit have the rudder feedback arm?

Bill

On Sun, Oct 24, 2021, 1:52 PM Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chuck,
> My 1982 C came with the older Autohelm 4000 (Raymarine) autopilot. The
>  unit is supposedly not that different than the latest model you are
> considering. Mine is inadequate downwind even in our relatively protected
> central Puget Sound waters. It is affected by more than wind speed - random
> puffs, wind shifts, crossing wave patterns,  large boat wakes, boat roll,
> etc. All give it panic attacks  and me the need for a beer once I am
> safely back on the dock.若 As the wind rises to the upper teens the unit is
> often inadequate upwind. As the wind rises further into the twenties I have
> found the unit to be useless. More experienced friends and marine tech
> sorts are not surprised. Fancy that. As my budget allows I plan to install
> a below deck unit, hydraulic or direct drive. That will be a bit of fun.
> FWIW, at 16-18K lbs. loaded, my boat is over the recommended displacement
> for the Autohelm wheel unit. I believe yours is similar. I have had to
> replace the little SSTL drive pins often. I’ve also changed drive belts and
> otherwise kept the unit well maintained and clean. I mostly singlehand and
> a strong, reliable autopilot is critical to my continued use of the boat. I
> am 70, reasonably fit and grew up around smaller boats and stupidly
> self-endangering marine situations  but am no champion or truly
> experienced old sea dog.
> So … happily not dead yet. 
> Twixt and ‘tween is not a generally happy place to be in, so …
> All the best,
> Hans R
> S/V Ete’   1982 C
> Shilshole Bay Marina
> Seatlle
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 22, 2021, at 12:13 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>  Chuck
> minor typo!  Fat fingers!! - should have been 20 kts not 29.
> Don
>
> On 10/22/2021 2:51 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Chuck
>
> I have a C 35 Mk2 that has the older Raymarine ST4000 autopilot which is
> being used at its upper limits.  It does Ok up to about 20kts on Narra Bay,
> Buzzards Bay and Long Island Sound.  Have never engaged it above 20 kts.
> The only problem I have had is the the three plastic "U" brackets that
> connect the unit to the helms spoke have cracked and needed to be
> replaced.  I think this was due to the Edson pedestal's brake which has
> become none functional and I initially used the Autohelm to lock the rudder
> when at anchor/mooring.  Not too smart!!
>
> Don Kern
> *Fireball, *C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
>
>
> On 10/22/2021 12:10 PM, Novabraid via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I’m contemplating adding a new wheel mount auto pilot (Raymarine EV-100)
> on my 1983 Landfall 35, equipped with an Edson 737 dual lever engine
> control (the type with the two extra stainless tubes that carry the control
> cables). I was curious to see if anyone on the list may have attempted to
> add this style auto pilot to their boat using the same engine control to
> see if there were any clearance issues between the autopilot motor/drive
> unit and the control housing.  This type engine control extends below the
> top of the pedestal (beneath the compass) and has up/down levers on port
> and starboard.
>
> I am aware that I’m at the top end of the displacement range for a wheel
> pilot, however my main reason for wanting a pilot in the first place is to
> facilitate single handing the boat for setting and dousing sails as well as
> picking up moorings, etc.  I’m not looking to cross oceans, just simple
> coastal cruising but since my primary crew member has moved out West, not
> having an auto pilot means the boat will sit on the mooring far more often.
>   A below deck pilot brings with it the challenge of where to mount the
> drive unit and the cost of the more expensive pilot, the Edson tiller arm,
> and the fabrication of a shelf to mount the drive unit.
>
>
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the 

Stus-List Bottom Paints Again

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I know this subject is as old as boats, but I think I commented in the spring 
that I was trying a brand new paint and would report in the fall, so here it 
is.  It is raining and chilly and not much else going on in the NE, so . ..

 

The paint is Pettit Odyssey Trinidad, and when I hauled a week ago the results 
were nothing less than amazing. All of the clubs haul out guys (and girl) were 
in awe, and said it was the cleanest boat the have hauled this year.

 

There was some scum from the bow back amidships and going down a few inches, 
mostly on the north side, oddly enough.  But the rest was amazingly clean. Of 
note, here in the Great Lakes over the last 10 years or so there has been some 
new growth that no one seems to know anything about, looks like a spider web 
growing all over the bottom, and there was NONE of that. No Zebra Mussels, 
nothing.

It is called ablative, but it is nowhere near as ablative as the previous 
year’s paint, very little came off with the pressure washer. Also, it called 
for two initial coats, I only used one. It goes on nice, and what I liked is 
that there is no heavy copper falling out, you don’t seem to need to keep 
stirring it as you go. In fact, I don’t think it has copper as we know it, 
Three Ingredients, Copper Thiocyanate, Econea, and Zinc Pyrithione.   I 
wouldn’t consider it a racing paint, but after a month, I might. One of the 
guys hauled his First 40 out and cleaned it (VC17) for the last race two weeks 
before his final haulout, and his bottom was a mess, complete with ‘spiderwebs’ 
and Zebra Mussels. He was amazed to see how much scum was back on 2 weeks later.

 

I think it’s the Zinc . .  . .Also, a $30 rebate going on.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Chuck, Isn’t the EV100 Wheel Pilot a belt driven unit? From what I see on 
YouTube it seems to be . . .

Maybe you can get the dimensions from Raymarine and just measure how it will 
fit – or just get them from an existing installation around you.

I had a 400+ on a 39, and it performed beautifully.  The rudder was perfectly 
balanced, tho, and you could let it steer itself, and spin it with a finger.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2021 4:59 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

 

Thanks folks for the input on the feasibility of using the wheel pilot with a 
vessel the size and displacement of Half Magic.  I recently brought a Cape Dory 
36 with a wheel pilot from Narragansett Bay to Martha’s Vineyard and while it 
has limits It worked great on the much heavier boat. Not in 25 kts, but just 
fine in 15 kts.

 

What I want the pilot to do is to keep the boat on a heading when I set or 
douse sails, or go to pick up a mooring. No passagemaking…

 

But please reread my initial question:  Will a new Raymarine EV100 wheel pilot 
(not the belt kind) fit an Edson pedestal with a model 737 Dual Lever ( unique 
to C& C) engine control without interfering with the control housing?

That’s what I’m really needing to know before making a purchase.  If the answer 
is no, I defer a few more years to buy the significantly more expensive below 
deck pilot and sail the boat a whole lot less until then.

Sent from my iPhone





On Oct 22, 2021, at 3:29 PM, Doug via CnC-List  wrote:



Is like Gorillas and guérillas? 

 

 

 

Doug Mountjoy 

sv Rebecca Leah 

C & C Landfall 39

Port Orchard Yacht Club 

Port Orchard, WA

 

 

 Original message 

From: Don Kern via CnC-List  

Date: 10/22/21 12:13 (GMT-08:00) 

To: Stus-List  

Cc: Don Kern  

Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots 

 

Chuck
minor typo!  Fat fingers!! - should have been 20 kts not 29.
Don

On 10/22/2021 2:51 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List wrote:

Chuck

I have a C 35 Mk2 that has the older Raymarine ST4000 autopilot which is 
being used at its upper limits.  It does Ok up to about 20kts on Narra Bay, 
Buzzards Bay and Long Island Sound.  Have never engaged it above 20 kts. The 
only problem I have had is the the three plastic "U" brackets that connect the 
unit to the helms spoke have cracked and needed to be replaced.  I think this 
was due to the Edson pedestal's brake which has become none functional and I 
initially used the Autohelm to lock the rudder when at anchor/mooring.  Not too 
smart!!

Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol, RI 



On 10/22/2021 12:10 PM, Novabraid via CnC-List wrote:

I’m contemplating adding a new wheel mount auto pilot (Raymarine EV-100) on my 
1983 Landfall 35, equipped with an Edson 737 dual lever engine control (the 
type with the two extra stainless tubes that carry the control cables). I was 
curious to see if anyone on the list may have attempted to add this style auto 
pilot to their boat using the same engine control to see if there were any 
clearance issues between the autopilot motor/drive unit and the control 
housing.  This type engine control extends below the top of the pedestal 
(beneath the compass) and has up/down levers on port and starboard.

I am aware that I’m at the top end of the displacement range for a wheel pilot, 
however my main reason for wanting a pilot in the first place is to facilitate 
single handing the boat for setting and dousing sails as well as picking up 
moorings, etc.  I’m not looking to cross oceans, just simple coastal cruising 
but since my primary crew member has moved out West, not having an auto pilot 
means the boat will sit on the mooring far more often.   A below deck pilot 
brings with it the challenge of where to mount the drive unit and the cost of 
the more expensive pilot, the Edson tiller arm, and the fabrication of a shelf 
to mount the drive unit.

 

Thanks for any advice.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu






Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal 

Stus-List Re: GelCoat Color Matching and Cracked Mast Step

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

There is this from practical welding- 

 

CASTINGS

The most common casting alloys by Far are the AlSiMg heat-treatable castings 
such as A35G and A319. The correct filler metal for the 3XX casting alloys is 
4043. If you don't know what the casting alloy is, it is logical to assume that 
it is a 3XX alloy. 

Again, this isn't foolproof. I would estimate that 90 percent of the castings 
you see will be 3XX alloys, but 5XX casting alloys are also somewhat common, 
These are non-heat-treatable and should be welded using 5356. Unfortunately,  
there is no easy way to tell a 3XX casting from a 5XX casting.  Well, I don’t 
uppose any of this information is scientific, but hopefully it will allow you 
to make a more informed filler metal choice the next time you are confronted 
with this dilemma..

 

 

 

I have had good luck welding castings on C’s with 5356.  Obviously you will 
have to pull your mast to repair this. Then I would look for softness under it 
t see why it cracked in the first place.  Or you can make up a SS plate and not 
worry about the cracking..

 

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: Todd Williams via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2021 11:39 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Todd Williams
Subject: Stus-List GelCoat Color Matching and Cracked Mast Step

 

Well, yesterday, the boat was hauled out for the winter... time to get busy 
before winter sets in for Upstate NY. We had a great summer of sailing on our 
new to us 1980 C which we named Indigo Out We Go.

 

1 - There are some chips in the gelcoat, especially around the perimeter of the 
transom. What is the best way to go about color matching my beautiful blue 
gelcoat? Is this a factory color that I can reference by name or number at a 
marine supply store and get tinted? (See Photos for nice blue color)

 

2 - I bought Indigo with a cracked mast step plate. We sailed all summer with 
it, even up to 25+ knot gusts. I see no evidence of movement. I called an 
aluminum welder and he told me it would be tough to adequately reconnect the 
plate without knowing the alloy and grinding down the plate so the keelbolt 
doesn't crack it again (not sure if that is the original cause). Should I be 
concerned with this crack? Where am I likely to find a replacement part? (See 
Photos)

 

PHOTOS - https://photos.app.goo.gl/XNxxNMUeBmkdUkyHA

 

Thanks for the information on various threads all summer, I have learned a lot!

 

TODD

Sodus Bay, NY

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Freshwater pump and hose

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Another one to consider is the Johnson variable rate. I hadn't noticed them
before, so they may be fairly new on the market. I have tried the above
pumps, and also a Marco, and none of them worked properly for me. I got one
of the Johnsons this spring, and it has worked flawlessly. The other ones,
for some reason, would let air get into the system, and then they would
just run without pumping anything. Very pleased with the Johnson so far.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Sun, Oct 17, 2021, 11:49 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would consider a pump with variable rate - it won't start/stop
> frequently and does not need an accumulator. Jabsco and Sureflow both have
> a model.
>
> Marek
> 1994 c270 Legato
> Ottawa ON
>
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> Date: 2021-10-17 08:29 (GMT-05:00)
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: John and Maryann Read 
> Subject: Stus-List Freshwater pump and hose
>
> Well the 40 year old OEM freshwater pump gave up the ghost.  Actually the
> pressure switch.  It still pumps fine but without the switch to shut it off
> it trips the breaker.
>
> Pump is a PAR  / ITT JABSCO 36970-1000, 2.8 GPM.  Has been out of
> production for years.  Some internet search show a switch  37121-0010 is
> supposedly available on flea bay for about $60 plus shipping.  Supposedly
> OEM part that has been sitting on the shelf for years.  A brand new pump
> assembly is less than $150.  Given the age of the current pump, a new one
> seems to make sense.  That gets us into the tubing which is Qest, is also
> OEM and there is a small leak that so far has eluded discovery.  The new
> pumps do not provide fitting compatible with Qest.
>
>
>
> One of my options would be to replace the tubing especially with the new
> plastic tubing now available.  Any thoughts on which system works best?
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Sounds like a YouTube setting – you have to tell it to not keep running.

They like to keep switching that back on.

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2021 5:23 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

 

Those videos don’t stop. I had to reboot to get rid of them

 

On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 3:23 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Here are a couple videos of me pulling the spar on my 39 about 18 years ago, 
the first one it gets dark towards the end, done with one crew and my 
girlfriend at the time. 

The second you will have to cock your head sideways (sorry), this done with 
just me and the same woman, but it only takes us 2 minutes and 30 seconds to do 
the deed each time, and the music is good.

 

Worth exactly what you paid for it.

 

https://youtu.be/cpz1hAODZAY 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icWBBccAKY8

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2021 8:36 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

 

I agree with Joe

 

Although we do it ourselves and do it every year we also need to have a group 
of people who come on their own time.  For these reasons I do everything I can 
before they arrive to use the least amount of their time that is necessary.  
Much would be the same if you pay to have someone else do it as otherwise the 
Rigger would have to do these tasks that are very time consuming.

 

Prior to the day of un-stepping the mast these are the things that I do and 
that you can also do:

 

-  Have all masthead gear removed.  Wind transducer, windex, VHF 
antenna.  Send someone aloft to do this 

-  Have boom removed.

-  De-rig all running rigging.  Have the halyards no longer running 
thru any blocks attached to the deck and coiled neatly and attached to mast 

-  Un-pin all shrouds and stays.  Lubricate all turn buckles.  Take a 
turn off of each to ensure they are not seized

 

These few steps take a lot of time but perhaps you can contact the people 
un-stepping the mast and see if doing this on un-stepping and then you doing 
the re-rigging would save on your quote.

 

I know that we have worked on a lot of masts.  Some owners are far more 
prepared than others and as a result the job takes less than half the time

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

 

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
Sent: October 3, 2021 3:30 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

 

This is not routine here in Maryland, my mast has been out exactly one time. I 
think it was $160 out and $160 in, which was the hourly crane charge back then. 
I had all the sails off, wiring disconnected, forestay and backstay off 
replaced by halyards, boom off, and the shrouds ready to go. The crane was 
literally done in about 10 minutes. If you paid the yard to do everything I can 
well see it hitting $1000.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

You’ll have a great time going through the canal, if you choose to go that 
route.  I guess with a 29 you could truck it reasonably. 

RCR in Buffalo, across from the Cheerios Plant is a nice marina, they have a 
crane atop their travel lift.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Thomas Perison via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2021 5:39 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Thomas Perison
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

 

Bill - 

Thanks for sharing - is helpful. 

I’m looking to pull mine next season in prep for a move to Buffalo, NY area. 

 

Regards- 

Tom 

 

Therapy 

29 Mk II

Annapolis

Sent from my iPhone





On Oct 4, 2021, at 5:23 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List  
wrote:



Those videos don’t stop. I had to reboot to get rid of them

 

On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 3:23 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Here are a couple videos of me pulling the spar on my 39 about 18 years ago, 
the first one it gets dark towards the end, done with one crew and my 
girlfriend at the time. 

The second you will have to cock your head sideways (sorry), this done with 
just me and the same woman, but it only takes us 2 minutes and 30 seconds to do 
the deed each time, and the music is good.

 

Worth exactly what you paid for it.

 

https://youtu.be/cpz1hAODZAY 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icWBBccAKY8

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Here are a couple videos of me pulling the spar on my 39 about 18 years ago, 
the first one it gets dark towards the end, done with one crew and my 
girlfriend at the time. 

The second you will have to cock your head sideways (sorry), this done with 
just me and the same woman, but it only takes us 2 minutes and 30 seconds to do 
the deed each time, and the music is good.

 

Worth exactly what you paid for it.

 

https://youtu.be/cpz1hAODZAY 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icWBBccAKY8

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2021 8:36 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

 

I agree with Joe

 

Although we do it ourselves and do it every year we also need to have a group 
of people who come on their own time.  For these reasons I do everything I can 
before they arrive to use the least amount of their time that is necessary.  
Much would be the same if you pay to have someone else do it as otherwise the 
Rigger would have to do these tasks that are very time consuming.

 

Prior to the day of un-stepping the mast these are the things that I do and 
that you can also do:

 

-  Have all masthead gear removed.  Wind transducer, windex, VHF 
antenna.  Send someone aloft to do this 

-  Have boom removed.

-  De-rig all running rigging.  Have the halyards no longer running 
thru any blocks attached to the deck and coiled neatly and attached to mast 

-  Un-pin all shrouds and stays.  Lubricate all turn buckles.  Take a 
turn off of each to ensure they are not seized

 

These few steps take a lot of time but perhaps you can contact the people 
un-stepping the mast and see if doing this on un-stepping and then you doing 
the re-rigging would save on your quote.

 

I know that we have worked on a lot of masts.  Some owners are far more 
prepared than others and as a result the job takes less than half the time

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

 

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
Sent: October 3, 2021 3:30 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

 

This is not routine here in Maryland, my mast has been out exactly one time. I 
think it was $160 out and $160 in, which was the hourly crane charge back then. 
I had all the sails off, wiring disconnected, forestay and backstay off 
replaced by halyards, boom off, and the shrouds ready to go. The crane was 
literally done in about 10 minutes. If you paid the yard to do everything I can 
well see it hitting $1000.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Diesel smell in clothes

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My cure-all, as I have mentioned B4 Here, is Oil Eater. If I get a little
grease or diesel on my clothes, I spray them with that, and then in the
wash. It is a very alkaline cleaner.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2021 8:30 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Diesel smell in clothes

 

All that work on the fuel system left me with some clothes that smell of
diesel. They got washed normally and now all the cotton clothes from that
load smell like diesel.  Anyone have any DIY tricks for getting diesel smell
out in the laundry?  I saw vinegar and baking soda in a Google search, but
it did not sound particularly effective.  Thanks- Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: bottom wash

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Think about eating a bowl of oatmeal, leave the bowl on the counter  for a 
couple weeks, vs put it in the sink with water, and clean a few hours later.

So yeah, You want to get to this muy pronto.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: G Gao via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2021 4:33 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: G Gao
Subject: Stus-List bottom wash

 

Hi,

 

Again a simple question that I have for experienced sailors.

 

In the past I have had the marina to "bottom wash" my boat when they do the 
haul out. This year I wanted to do it myself (want to save myself a few bucks), 
however this is not going to be at the time of haul out, but a couple weeks 
later. Is the two weeks delay a problem?

 

Thank you in advance.

 

Bo




 

-- 

1974 C 35 MK2

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu