Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

hey now???!!?

:)

> On Oct 9, 2018, at 3:53 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Edd, don't feel bad, when we have a C rendezvous here in the Ohio Valley, 
> its a party of one
> 
> Richard
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Sent: Tue, Oct 9, 2018 3:47 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous
> 
> So it looks like Josh Muckley’s rendezvous is going to be well-attended by 
> C’ers — many more than we had over the last few years up here in the 
> Northeast. 
> 
> I’m trying to be happy for him, but it feels more like this:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/r86k6e592h8d3bg/muckley.png?dl=0 
>  
> 
> Have fun, guys — and enjoy the swag. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

A boat in our boatyard had their hull soda blasted and it looked like concrete 
when done.   They ended up having to do 3-4 coats of epoxy filler and then 
fairing the entire hull.   I was envious when their boat was stripped in 1 day 
but then seeing the extra work and sanding required, felt great with my option 
to sand. 

I redid my hull this year as well.   There were many layers of ablative paint.  
 I took down to gel coat / barrier with a 80 / 100 grit sanding using a festool 
sander.   Already had from work which was a plus but would have bought it for 
this job alone.   

Then two coats of petit epoxy  barrier and 2 coats of petit vivid over top of 
that.I must say, I love the vivid paint.Boats been back in the water 4 
months now, on the river, and have zero growth.When scraping with my 
fingernails, nothing comes off, growth or paint, and the hull feels nicely 
polished.   

Overall it took about 50 hours start to finish at a casual pace working solo on 
the boat. If I didn’t truly enjoy it, probably not a money savings in 
taking time from work but satisfaction wise, would do again.

As a side, last year I did the "1000 dollar" option, scraped off loose stuff, 
overcoat with 2 coats of ablative and it all sheeted off during the year.   I 
have ideas of what happened, but I kind of knew i was putting a band aid on 
something more serious.  Wasted my time and money.

I’ve quickly learned with sailing there are no shortcuts.

Donald








> On Aug 8, 2018, at 10:47 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Charlie,
>  
> Have no experience with this “yet” but have a similar bottom situation.  This 
> past spring I asked the yard manager about it and he estimated if he [the 
> yard] were to do all of work [subcontracting the soda blasting] and supplies 
> the full job would be ~ $7,000.  He said the soda blasting frequently leaves 
> pitting in the gelcoat which then needs to be filled / sanded / filled and 
> faired / sanded, barrier coats and finally 2-3 coats of bottom paint.  He is 
> pretty relaxed about DIY and said that $$$ amount could be reduced depending 
> on how much of the labor I want to do, and if I supply the barrier coat and 
> bottom paint materials.  I am NOT going to sand off the bottom paint myself; 
> using a random orbital sander this spring managed to get too much paint dust 
> / particles in my eyes, even with goggles. 
>  
> Find it difficult to rationalize investing that much in a 30 yo boat I have 
> owned for 20 years, especially if there is a possibility there might be a 
> “next” boat in the future… 
>  
> I like Danny’s $1k and good finish on the bottom much better…Danny:  
> Which yard in Mattapoisett did you use?  And what time of year was the work 
> done?  Would guess there are seasonal variations in the rate schedule.  
> Thanks.
>  
> Brian
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
> Nelson via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2018 9:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms
>  
> I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
> seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
> possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the
> yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
>  
> Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or 
> stay with the sanding method).
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>  
> cenel...@aol.com 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

I have used this method with success at my slip  where I have lots of current 
and I am also on the down stream side of my slip. For a mid ship line, I 
just use a carabiner to attach a line to the toe rail.   I just use a pole to 
loop the line on the back cleat and then just comfortably go back to the helm 
until the boat is nice a steady and then just step off and attach my lines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-v-KCVmrwMA=531s 



Donald
still no name……
Louisville, KY 



> On Aug 2, 2018, at 11:47 AM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I use the midship SS toe rail cleat without issue.
> 
> With just a spring line decelerating the boat, how do you stop the bow from 
> swinging into the finger and the stern from swinging out?  This is the reason 
> I have a stern/spring line combo for my setup.  Tightening the stern line 
> from the cockpit (or dock) once the spring is loaded stops that. 
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: robert mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 09:36:58 -0300
> Subject: Stus-List Docking seamanship
> Dennis:
> 
> One guy at our club single hands his J120 regularly.he installed a deck 
> cleat about mid shiphe approaches the finger pier at approx. 1 to 2 knts, 
> steps off the boat as the starboard gate meets the pier, picks up his spring 
> line which has a 'snubber' and attaches to the mid ship cleatif he wind 
> is strong to blow him off the pier, he leaves the engine in gear at idle 
> speed and the boat just lays up against the pier.  Like you, he has little 
> room for forward movement once the spring line is attached.The big 
> Nonsuch 36 next to me does the same thing.
> 
> Another member has a 'line catcher' at the end of his pier where he hangs his 
> spring line when he leaves.   On approach, he either reaches out or uses a 
> pole to grab the spring line and attaches to his mid ship deck cleatonce 
> attached and the boat comes to a stop leaving the engine in gear at idle 
> speed, he gets off the boat and attaches his lines.  He doesn't step off his 
> boat to attach the spring line as there is too much freeboard and he is not 
> comfortable making a jump to the pier from that height.it's a big boat, 
> centre cockpit and no one is going to 'man handle' it the way we can with our 
> C's
> 
> My method, earlier described, is similar however I use my main winch because 
> I don't have a mid ship deck cleat.I have one of those SS toe rail cleats 
> which I don't think was designed to stop the forward movement of the boat, at 
> least I am not going to experiment to find out.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32-84
> Halifax, N.S. 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Structural glass work

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Hey Richard,

https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Boat-Repair-Manual/dp/0071569146/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1532447102=8-1=The+Fiberglass+Boat+Repair+Manual



Donald



> On Jul 24, 2018, at 11:40 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Paul, thanksI hadn't noticed that, if I switch it over to .com I should 
> be OK; Thanks again!
> 
> Richard
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Paul Fountain 
> Sent: Tue, Jul 24, 2018 11:19 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Structural glass work
> 
> Think it’s because the link is to amazon.ca not amazon.com.
> 
> 
> 
> Paul
>  
> From: 30031472000n behalf of 
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 11:07 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: bushma...@aol.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Structural glass work
>  
> OK this is weird: I tried to order the Fiberglass manual book and Amazon wont 
> deliver it to my address!  Does it have something to do with it being 
> published in Canada? Does anyone understand this?   Any suggestions on how to 
> get it delivered?
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List 
> To: C List 
> Cc: Sylvain Laplante  >
> Sent: Tue, Jul 24, 2018 10:57 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Structural glass work
> 
> Hi,
>   I read many, and teh Gougeon brothers manuals. By far I would recommend " 
> The fiberglass boat repair manual " by Allan H Vaitses , excellent knowledge 
> with real life experience and very objective in the subjects covered. He 
> built boats, fixed other's mistakes and is a pleasure to read from page one 
> to the end. Look at the cover and you can see the extend of knowledge 
> described in this book.
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/Fiberglass-Boat-Repair-Manual/dp/0071569146 
> 
> 
> No, my copy is not for sale!
> 
> Sylvain
> C MkIII
> 
> On Monday, July 23, 2018, 9:22:07 PM EDT, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi folks.  
> I’ve worked with fibreglass for years and have pretty much memorized the West 
> epoxy how-to book. I want to learn more about engineering the reinforcements 
> and repairs I’m doing.  Can anyone in the know recommend a good text book on 
> the subject of marine composites which goes into more depth than your typical 
> toilet tank page flipper.  
> Thanks. 
> 
> Brent Driedger 
> s/v Wild Rover
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

I’ll write up my experience this summer with replacing a broken cable on my 
boat while in the water with no option to haul out.   I’ll try to do that 
tonight with pictures of my solution. 

Donald



> On Jan 16, 2018, at 1:37 PM, Sean Richardson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Calling on the collective C brain trust!
> 
>  
> I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any 
> advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics of 
> the center board version if anyone has any.
> 
>  
> The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to be 
> in very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for our 
> next boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how it 
> effects performance/stability as well as required maintenance.
> 
>  
> I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to 
> sail out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then 
> return the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to 
> Florida then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for 
> the ICW and Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more 
> challenging conditions of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?
> 
>  
> My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I would 
> assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to clean 
> marine growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down position. 
> And how difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS lifting strop with 
> the boat in the water?
> 
>  
> The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the road.
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List C 37 Centerboard

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Bob,

I have been working on writing down how I ended up fixing my centerboard issue. 
  I had to get get creative and was actually able to do everything in the water.

If I don’t respond to  your questions later, shoot me an  email later in the 
week when i will have a moment to think.

Donald




> On Oct 10, 2017, at 10:46 AM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a new, 
> but related, one.
> 
> I'm looking at a 1983 C 37-P K/CB. 
> (The "P" stands for Project Boat).
> 
> One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
> When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended partially 
> (I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that barnacles 
> prevented a full extension. 
> 
> 1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
> 2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
> 3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> --Bob M
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
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> 
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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List NMEA 2k wind instrument problem

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Double check the installation instructions closely and follow each step when it 
comes to setting up the control panel.  When I set it up, wind was not showing 
as well but everything else was, so I re climbed the mast several times double 
checking every connection and found you just had to specify for it to show in 
the panel.   

I’ll glance at the control panel later and send you a picture of the location 
to set it in the panel.   It slightly confusing and I think something they are 
aware of because there was special note in the instructions to connect the wind 
sensor in a different method than the other sensors.

Donald



> On Jun 28, 2017, at 10:15 AM, Chris Hickey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've got a NMEA 2k network aboard my C 30, including a Garmin GWS 10 wind 
> sensor at the top of the mast. Everything was working well at the end of last 
> season, but when I launched and stepped my mast this spring I found that the 
> wind speed/direction was not appearing on my instruments. The other 
> components (depth, sea temp, speed) appear to be working fine. The mast cable 
> attached to the network with a field installable connector and I've rechecked 
> those connections and they look good. I've also tried a different tee 
> connector to make sure that wasn't the problem, but still no luck.
> 
> Are there any other tests or diagnostics I can run to determine the root of 
> the problem without having to send someone up the mast? I'm guessing the 
> possibilities are either a bad connection between the mast cable and wind 
> sensor or a failure of the sensor itself, but I'm open to any tips or 
> suggestions you might have!
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris
> SV Seeker - C 30
> Holyrood, NL
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Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

I was think of going from top down with feeding the new line.Seems like the 
amstel blue may make that easier.  Thoughts on that?


Donald








> On Jun 12, 2017, at 4:37 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Donald:
> 
> It seems to me the tough part in any case is how you connect the old cable to 
> the new.
> 
> When you're hauled out, you can tape them together. When you're underwater? I 
> dunno. A thin messenger line tied to the old cable and the new one? If the 
> connector is bulky, it may get hung up while going through a sheave.
> 
> Maybe someone on the list has a better idea. I've seen a ton of clever 
> solutions pop up here over the years.
> 
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Former C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> -Original Message- From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:18 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Donald Sebastian
> Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
> 
> Jack,
> 
> Thanks for the information.  I like that as an option.
> 
> The complication in all of this is the closest travel lift is a 4-5 day one 
> way motoring trip up the Ohio to Cincinnati.My closest local option to 
> lift would require a de-masting with a crane I hire in myself as their lift 
> cannot accommodate masts taller than 30 ft or so.  With the haul out, crane 
> rental, lift rental, 2nd crane rental, and relaunch I would have several 
> thousand just in those services.I think the diver may be cheaper.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Donald
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 12, 2017, at 3:47 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> One alternative to consider is replacing the cable with high-tech line such 
>> as Amsteel Blue. This is an increasingly common strategy for avoiding steel 
>> cables failing without notice.
>> 
>> Amsteel Blue is stronger than the same size steel cable, impervious to salt 
>> water and resistant to abrasion. UV is its only weak point, which is not an 
>> issue with a centerboard cable.
>> 
>> On my current sailboat, I just replaced an Amsteel Blue line that had served 
>> as a centerboard cable for eight years. The rigger who did the (simple) job 
>> for me said it could have lasted eight more years. No wear or deterioration 
>> at all.
>> 
>> The rigger's approach was to put a Brummel splice in the centerboard end, 
>> then loop the line through it to connect to the board. Then connect the new 
>> cable to the old one and crank it up.
>> 
>> If you're near a yard with a Travel Lift, you should be able to get a 
>> two-hour short haul for about $200. That would be plenty of time to do the 
>> job. I think the rigger charged me $75 in labor plus $20-something for the 
>> Amsteel Blue.
>> 
>> Jack Brennan
>> Former C 25
>> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
>> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message- From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 1:01 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Donald Sebastian
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
>> 
>> Paul,
>> 
>> Thank you very much for the information.I’ll contact them today.I’m 
>> thinking its just the fitting at the actual keel as I can’t pull the actual 
>> line up so I think the loop is still attach, or the loop is no longer a loop 
>> but the swagging is still attached and not able to pul through the hole.
>> 
>> Thanks again.
>> 
>> Donald
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:35 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I have a 33-II with a centreboard whose pendant broke a couple of years 
>>> ago. I had Rob From South Shore yachts make and install the new one. They 
>>> had an eye fitting roll swagged on the lower end, which the fed down and 
>>> attached with a pin to the board, then hand swagged 2 fittings to make the 
>>> eye on the deck end.
>>> 
>>> When hauled the board swung just far enough forward to allow you to reach 
>>> up and remove and replace the pin. Have a new pin ready! Ours was just 
>>> about worse thru.
>>> 
>>> Contact for Rob MacLachlan at South Shore Yachts 
>>> sa...@southshoreyachts.com, or try calling (works better) tel:905-468-4340
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>&

Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Jack,

Thanks for the information.  I like that as an option. 

The complication in all of this is the closest travel lift is a 4-5 day one way 
motoring trip up the Ohio to Cincinnati.My closest local option to lift 
would require a de-masting with a crane I hire in myself as their lift cannot 
accommodate masts taller than 30 ft or so.  With the haul out, crane rental, 
lift rental, 2nd crane rental, and relaunch I would have several thousand just 
in those services.I think the diver may be cheaper.

Thanks,

Donald












> On Jun 12, 2017, at 3:47 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> One alternative to consider is replacing the cable with high-tech line such 
> as Amsteel Blue. This is an increasingly common strategy for avoiding steel 
> cables failing without notice.
> 
> Amsteel Blue is stronger than the same size steel cable, impervious to salt 
> water and resistant to abrasion. UV is its only weak point, which is not an 
> issue with a centerboard cable.
> 
> On my current sailboat, I just replaced an Amsteel Blue line that had served 
> as a centerboard cable for eight years. The rigger who did the (simple) job 
> for me said it could have lasted eight more years. No wear or deterioration 
> at all.
> 
> The rigger's approach was to put a Brummel splice in the centerboard end, 
> then loop the line through it to connect to the board. Then connect the new 
> cable to the old one and crank it up.
> 
> If you're near a yard with a Travel Lift, you should be able to get a 
> two-hour short haul for about $200. That would be plenty of time to do the 
> job. I think the rigger charged me $75 in labor plus $20-something for the 
> Amsteel Blue.
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Former C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message- From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 1:01 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Donald Sebastian
> Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
> 
> Paul,
> 
> Thank you very much for the information.I’ll contact them today.I’m 
> thinking its just the fitting at the actual keel as I can’t pull the actual 
> line up so I think the loop is still attach, or the loop is no longer a loop 
> but the swagging is still attached and not able to pul through the hole.
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Donald
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:35 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I have a 33-II with a centreboard whose pendant broke a couple of years ago. 
>> I had Rob From South Shore yachts make and install the new one. They had an 
>> eye fitting roll swagged on the lower end, which the fed down and attached 
>> with a pin to the board, then hand swagged 2 fittings to make the eye on the 
>> deck end.
>> 
>> When hauled the board swung just far enough forward to allow you to reach up 
>> and remove and replace the pin. Have a new pin ready! Ours was just about 
>> worse thru.
>> 
>> Contact for Rob MacLachlan at South Shore Yachts sa...@southshoreyachts.com, 
>> or try calling (works better) tel:905-468-4340
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Donald 
>> Sebastian via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 2:54 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Donald Sebastian <donaldsebast...@me.com>
>> Subject: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
>> from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
>> underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going 
>> on.My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that 
>> the cable attaches to has broken.
>> 
>> I have a few questions:
>> 
>> 1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great 
>> option to pull locally without demasting.
>> 2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
>> sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the 
>> keel from droppiing too far?
>> 3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
>> does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Donald
>> 
>> Louisville, KY
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 

Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Paul,

Thank you very much for the information.I’ll contact them today.I’m 
thinking its just the fitting at the actual keel as I can’t pull the actual 
line up so I think the loop is still attach, or the loop is no longer a loop 
but the swagging is still attached and not able to pul through the hole.

Thanks again.

Donald






> On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:35 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a 33-II with a centreboard whose pendant broke a couple of years ago. 
> I had Rob From South Shore yachts make and install the new one. They had an 
> eye fitting roll swagged on the lower end, which the fed down and attached 
> with a pin to the board, then hand swagged 2 fittings to make the eye on the 
> deck end. 
> 
> When hauled the board swung just far enough forward to allow you to reach up 
> and remove and replace the pin. Have a new pin ready! Ours was just about 
> worse thru. 
> 
> Contact for Rob MacLachlan at South Shore Yachts sa...@southshoreyachts.com, 
> or try calling (works better) tel:905-468-4340
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Donald 
> Sebastian via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 2:54 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Donald Sebastian <donaldsebast...@me.com>
> Subject: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
> from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
> underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going on. 
>My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that the 
> cable attaches to has broken.
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
> 1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great option 
> to pull locally without demasting.
> 2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
> sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the keel 
> from droppiing too far?
> 3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
> does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Donald
> 
> Louisville, KY
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Mike,

Any help or information would be very much appreciated.Pictures would be 
great.   Trying to plan out as much as possible.

Thanks,

Donald
donaldsebast...@me.com



> On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:23 AM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Donald
> 
> This happened to me in the Bahamas, fortunately my board was jammed in the up 
> position.  If my board was down I would be concerned it could get damaged.  I 
> believe the cable can be replaced while the boat is in the water.  Your 
> biggest challenge will be getting the cable end made that's attached to the 
> board.  I've been told they are not available so I had a machine shop make on 
> for me.  I could get you the dimensions but it may not be the same.  Also, I 
> could give you a picture of my board as I have yet to do the reinstall.  
> 
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> www.persuasion37.com
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
>> On Jun 12, 2017, at 2:53 AM, Donald Sebastian via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
>> from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
>> underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going 
>> on.My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that 
>> the cable attaches to has broken.
>> 
>> I have a few questions:
>> 
>> 1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great 
>> option to pull locally without demasting.
>> 2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
>> sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the 
>> keel from droppiing too far?
>> 3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
>> does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?
>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> 
>> Donald
>> 
>> Louisville, KY
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Hello all,

I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, from 
its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving underneath, the 
keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going on.My assumption 
is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that the cable attaches to has 
broken.

I have a few questions:

1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great option 
to pull locally without demasting.
2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by sailing 
as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the keel from 
droppiing too far?
3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, does 
any one have specs on that connection or pictures?

Thanks, 

Donald

Louisville, KY


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Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

 Joe,

I did the same thing with an mattress from Ikea.   I cut it down and 
actually resewed the cover to fit the new wedge shape so that can be removed 
and cleaned. The loss of head space is definitely worth the extra comfort.

Just a hint to help move it.   Put it in a thick plastic bag and suck the air 
out with a shop vac and then duck tape the opening shut.   This will compress 
it down to a small ball that will  grow fairly slowly back to size once in 
place and removed from the bag.I do this each season.

Donald
(no name yet after 2 years)
C 33 MKII




> On May 8, 2017, at 4:31 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had finally had enough of the 1980 era fabric on 1973 era foam v-berth 
> cushions and decided to make something better. I ordered a 6 inch thick king 
> sized memory foam mattress and an electric carving knife from Amazon, drew an 
> outline of the cushions, and started cutting.
> So far so good J
> I crammed and stuffed it into the car, drove down to the dock, and now had to 
> carry this huge thing in wind gusting to 30 onto the boat and get it aboard 
> without getting launched off the dock. Well that was hard enough, but the 
> next step was not totally thought through. The companionway and the passage 
> past the head to the v-berth are not really up to king sized mattress moving. 
> After what felt like a huge fight with an angry giant octopus, I finally got 
> it up there. It is very comfortable too, but what a freaking pain!
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Smelly Water Tank

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

I am in the same boat with trying to clean my tanks.   I don’t think they have 
been used in about 10+ years and were filled with winterizer solution for 
probably the whole time.

I have flushed them probably 50 times at this point, bleach, etc and still 
cannot get rid of the smell.

It seems to smell worse after they have set a bit so I am assuming the chemical 
is either settling to the bottom, or the tanks are just leaching the smell.   

I’m hoping to not have to change the tanks but afraid that is where it is 
headed.

Donald






On Jun 13, 2016, at 2:42 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List  
wrote:

> The pull out platform the settee cushions sit on can be lifted off. Under 
> that is an access
> plate that screws off. I usually in the spring use a clean microfiber cloth 
> and wipe down
> the tank with clean water and a little bit of bleach.
> 
> There are various chemicals you can add ( Sudbury Aqua Fresh and such ) that 
> work well.
> 
> I routinely add a small amount of bleach, maybe a tablespoon per 5 gallons, 
> when refilling
> the tank.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
> 
> Listers- 
> 
> My 30-1 has developed a bad odor in the water tank under the starboard settee 
> (the tank that supplies the galley sink). 
> 
> Any tips on how to get rid of it? I'm tempted to pour some bleach in the tank 
> but wanted to check with you all first to see if there is any risk of 
> damaging the material from which the tank is made (fiberglass, I think - the 
> tank seems to be a molded part of the settee). 
> 
> Note I don't drink that water or even use it for cooking. I mainly use it for 
> cleaning. 
> 
> Thanks in advance. 
> 
> Cheers, 
> Randy Stafford 
> S/V Grenadine 
> C 30-1 #7 
> Ken Caryl, CO 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Through hole location for bilge outputs

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Gene,

I was actually going to do the same thing on my boat.Just recently 
purchased a boat and had a bilge pump but was not automatic.

I actually hooked the current smaller pump that fits into the small well and 
did install a float valve but had to attached it slightly higher that the pump 
just because it wouldn’t fit tin the small well.

I am going to add a second pump and sensor  and looking at the option below. 


The plan is to attach a smaller electronic bilge pump switch that i can epoxy 
to the side of the small well.

Then add a larger external pump that will have a hose running to that well.  
This hose will have a one way valve in that well to prevent the water from 
flowing back into the well and keep the pump from cycling on and off with flow 
back.

Then I plan to put a y connector to the current hose near the exit point of the 
boat.  I do plan to put 2 one way valve on each hose at this point to keep 
water form being pumped back into the other pump hose and assume flow to the 
outside.


The sensor and pump are here:

http://www.iboats.com/Johnson-Pumps-Ultima-Bilge-Switch/dm/cart_id.141200884--session_id.712849042--view_id.49248

http://www.pbsboatstore.com/Jabsco-31705-0092.htm


Donald






On May 12, 2016, at 1:14 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Hi Folks,
> 
> I just purchased a C 29 Mark II, Hawk, and I'm looking for advise on 
> upgrading the bilge pump situation. There is no auto pump in the boat which 
> scares the hell out of me, so that's the first improvement in order. I'm 
> following Don Casey's advise on putting in a small automatic bilge pump at 
> the very bottom and then I plan to put in a larger one above it for when I 
> really need to move water (which hopefully never happens).  So here's my 
> question:
> 
> Question 1: Where to put the through hole for the output? I'm thinking about 
> halfway between the midship and stern and just below the deck hull joint. 
> That way if the rail is buried it still won't siphon. This hole/hose will be 
> 1/2 inch.
> 
>  Question 2: For the larger pump, I'm wondering if it would be acceptable to 
> put in a Y connector shared with the manual bilde pump to avoid putting 
> another hole in the hull. I would put the connector right above the 
> throughhole assuming it fits so that gravity would ensure that they don't 
> pump back into the other hose. This hole/hose will be over 1". The current 
> one goes out above the water line in the stern.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Gene Fodor
> "Hawk", 29 mark II
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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