Stus-List Mast Rake for C 41

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

I'm looking for advice on what mast rake works best for a C 41

Doug Allardyce
C 41 BULLET
Detroit
~_/)~


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Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Edd, 
More than likely its hollow under the head platform. What I have done on 
several boats is to tap the fiberglass for a 1/4-20 thread. I always prefer to 
tap instead using a coarse threaded sheet metal or wood type screw. Holds 
better with much less gelcoat chipping. I have used the Jabsco "Quiet Flush" 
heads with no problems for 10 years now.

Doug Allardyce 
C 35 III 
"BULLET" 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Edd 
Schillay via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 9:13 AM
  To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
  Cc: Edd Schillay
  Subject: Stus-List Head Replacement


  Listers,


  I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my C 
37+ to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which has the 
same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing, I’d like to 
consider other manufacturers as well. 


  Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no access 
underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and avoid a, 
pardon the pun, crappy job. 


  All the best,


  Edd




  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log










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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Boat_SigSince you are checking everything, check the tapered pin that holds the 
sprocket to the pedestal shaft.

Doug Allardyce 
~_/)~ 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Jeffrey 
Nelson via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 4:21 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Jeffrey Nelson
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?


  Do you know any really good practical jokers?

  I can't imagine a possible way for the chain to jump off the socket and the 
key's unless they somehow broke would prohibit slipping elsewhere.






  On 1/23/2018 9:54 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all, 



OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...


I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when 
the wheel is centered.  I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came 
back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.  By the way, were 
talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder.   After installing my 
autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to 
approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment 
bolts through the radial drive wheel.  This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 
notches on the wheel sprocket.


All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only 
to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.  During these 
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the 
feel of the wheel.  I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing. 



During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
little loose, and tightened those.  



Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and 
the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping 
on the sprocket.


Thoughts?

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
Madiera Beach, FL

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


 

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  -- 
  Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C 30
  Armdale Y.C.
  Halifax


   Virus-free. www.avast.com  
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Re: Stus-List Windows Navigation Software

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Neil,
I'm in Detroit and may have some sails available for sale this spring for a C 
35 III. All are no older than two years with little use. Sail loft is either 
Doyle or Ullman.
Contact info:
doug.allard...@gmail.com
248-318-5677

Doug Allardyce 
C 35 III 
"BULLET" 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of schiller 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, December 29, 2017 10:23 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: schiller
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows Navigation Software


  I still keep SeaClear on my boat and home laptops.  Easy to download charts 
from NOAA and I have a USB GPS module that originally came with Microsoft 
Streets and Trips 2010 that still works.  Only used for trip planning and as a 
backup to the backup to the backup.  Free and still works.

  Neil Schiller
  1983 C, #028
  "Grace"
  White Lake, Michigan


  On 12/29/2017 8:49 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

As I recently mentioned I have upgraded from a Windows Surface RT tablet 
running Windows 8.1 to a Windows Laptop/Tablet hybrid running Windows 10.  
Navionics has discontinued support of BoatingHD app for Windows so I cannot 
reload my subscribed charts to Windows 10 machine although I could install the 
app.



Since this is a laptop or a tablet under windows 10 (you can switch 
interfaces) I should have quite a bit of flexibility in choosing nav software.



What are the preferred products for windows 10 platform?  Please keep in 
mind that I am in Canada and we do not get free charts as the US does from NOAA



Thanks



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS


 

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Re: Stus-List Looking for a C 29mk2 on the great lakes.

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

There is a 1988 30 MkII for the asking price of $31,900. located in Detroit.
Listed by Bob Reeds Sailboat Center.
http://www.scsailboat.com/boat-inventory/?slim=pp287215
Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Bruce
and Kathy Fielding via CnC-List
  Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2017 6:04 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Bruce and Kathy Fielding
  Subject: Stus-List Looking for a C 29mk2 on the great lakes.


  Can you post this for me?

  Bruce Fielding
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Stus-List C 40-2 Survey

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

I'm trying to make a list of the remaining C 40-2's that are still on the
great lakes. If anyone is aware of one, please send me any info you might
have. Thanks

Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 

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Stus-List C 40-2 Survey

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

I'm trying to make a list of the remaining C 40-2's that are still on the
great lakes. If anyone is aware of one, please send me any info you might
have. Thanks

Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Thank again Gary. This is very helpful. You did a great job laying everything 
out and then executing. No mysteries now on what needs to be done. Great 
installation.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 11:25 AM
  To: C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Hi Doug,
   I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked out 
great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so everything 
stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures below:


  Gary
  ​
   High Maintenance Autopilot Project​



  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have to 
cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
  To: C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it. 


  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on 
a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


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All contributions are greatly appreciated!





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Re: Stus-List C 34 plus auto pilots

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh. Very helpful.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Josh 
Muckley via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 9:49 AM
  To: C List
  Cc: Josh Muckley
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C 34 plus auto pilots


  I didn't install it but I have one and have absolutely no complaints.  Here 
are some pictures.


  https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yZU1hczd0QlNEOWc



  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C 37+
  Solomons, MD 






  On Oct 27, 2017 9:18 AM, "Doug Allardyce via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.

Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have to cut 
a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
  To: C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.


  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


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contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Stus-List C 34 plus auto pilots

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.

Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 

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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Jonathon,
Replaced the cabin sole on a 35 III three years ago. It took three sheets. I
started with the big piece in front of the settee first, then worked the
other pieces from it. Rough cut the shape with skill saw or table saw and
finished with a router for a clean edge. try to get the seam on the teak to
holly joint. Finish with Minwax polyurethane satin, three coats on bottom
and edges and six coats on top to get nice smooth finish with no grain. Use
220 between the last three coats. I've used Minwax on three boats now, and
I'm very pleased with the results. Just like a hardwood floor it wears like
iron. I recoat after 3/5 years (depends on usage) with maybe two coats to
freshen it up. Send me your email and I'll send some pictures of the project
if that would help.

Doug Allardyce
C 35 III
"BULLET"
~_/)~~~_/)~


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Indigo
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII


I am just about to start on the project to replace the teak and Holly cabin
sole on Indigo. I have gleaned much info / advice from past postings on this
list, but was wondering if anyone has prepared a "step by step" guide.

Things I need help on!

1) steps to ensure that the Holly lines up exactly for each piece.   I
recently asked, and was told I need 2 pieces of 4' x 8' to complete the job
and allow the lines to match up - but I thought from past postings that 3
pieces are needed. Can someone who has done a 35mkiii confirm which?

2) best tool(s) to use to cut out the new pieces using the old boards as
templates.  Any tips / techniques to ensure accuracy and minimise damage to
new veneer?

3) I know I should epoxy the underneath (and sides?) of the boards - how
many coats are advised - can the first coat be "thin" to aid penetration
into the plywood?

4) advice on what to use for the top surface - presumably a polyurethane
varnish - preferred brand, number of coats recommended, what finish (matt,
semi-gloss, gloss?)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

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Re: Stus-List Broke my boat

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Neil, Sorry to hear about your disaster. Clearly one of every sailors worst 
nightmares. I can only imagine what you and your crew went through. On the 
bright side, no one was injured.
After looking at your pictures I was surprised that the damage to the boat 
wasn't more extensive. The shroud came out fairly clean so the damage to the 
deck wall ugly is very repairable. The bulkhead will take a little more work, 
but also very repairable. I would replace about 18" of the bulkhead from 
outboard or until you get into good wood. Glass it in and add a large aluminum 
plate on the back side, and it will be stronger than new. It may not look like 
a new boat on the inside, but it will be stronger. If the insurance will cover 
the majority of the cost, its always nice to have a bran new Offshore rig with 
new shrouds you can trust.

Good luck my friend.  The Redwing 35 is a classic. We still have many active 
35's in the Detroit racing circuit.

Doug Allardyce
C 35 III
BULLET
~_/)_/)

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of schiller 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2017 7:33 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: schiller
  Subject: Stus-List Broke my boat


  We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon, Michigan 
yesterday.  The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and the chain plate 
pulled out through the deck.  The mast snapped at the spreaders and fell off to 
the leeward side.

  We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race.  The 
conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts when the chain 
plate failed.  Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been on a beam reach doing 
7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to closehauled to see if we were going to be able 
to point to the turning mark when it failed.  We had about twenty seconds 
between hearing the pop and having the chain plate fly out of the deck with the 
mast failed.  Luckily, all were in the cockpit at failure.  I was just starting 
out to crash drop sails from the first pop and seeing the slack leeward shroud. 
 The helmsman had just started turning into the wind.

  After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed and get the 
jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit.  Took the boat back in to 
Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it in their haulout well until Monday when 
they can start assessing it.

  It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will support a new 
mast and structural repairs necessary.

  The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed in the 
bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22 years ago) but the 
wood in the area does not look good.

  I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.

  Neil Schiller
  1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
  (C 35, Mark I)
  "Corsair"
  White Lake, Michigan
  (Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)
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Re: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle sensor they would be willing to part with?

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Ok, but just in case the AIRMAR number is 31-277-9-71, REV 4, and the customer 
part (perhaps B) is 650-AA-110/SEN-SPEED-N.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/) 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of 
doug.welch--- via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 4:07 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle 
sensor they would be willing to part with?


  Thanks for your generous offer. I think your sensor is from the hornet series 
(1.55 inch diameter) and i have the network series (1.2 inch diameter).


  Cheers,
  Doug
  Celtic Knot
  85 33-2 cb


  Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android


On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 11:04 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Doug,
I have an old speed paddle for early B speed instrument. It was installed 
on a 1985 C III. I don't know when it was installed on the boat. Its a (4) 
paddle unit. Needs a bore size or 1.55". It has 7 wires, white, brown ,red, 
green, black, yellow, gray. You can have it for shipping cost.


Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/) 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Doug 
Welch via CnC-List
  Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2016 4:09 PM
  To: C List
  Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
  Subject: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle 
sensor they would be willing to part with?


  Mine broke in 2? Don't ask me how. It went in in 1 piece and came out in 
2. Anyways B wants $500 for a replacement and I can't see myself spending 
that much for sensor replacement. If I can't find one at a reasonable price, I 
will seek permission from the admiral to replace my wind, depth and speed. I do 
like the current B and G series (Triton?) but would appreciate any input on the 
best bang for the buck.


  If you do have a sensor, please let me know how much you want for it.


  Cheers,
  Doug


  Celtic Knot
  85 33-2 cb ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle sensor they would be willing to part with?

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Doug,
I have an old speed paddle for early B speed instrument. It was installed on 
a 1985 C III. I don't know when it was installed on the boat. Its a (4) 
paddle unit. Needs a bore size or 1.55". It has 7 wires, white, brown ,red, 
green, black, yellow, gray. You can have it for shipping cost.


Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/) 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2016 4:09 PM
  To: C List
  Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
  Subject: Stus-List Anyone got a B and G network series knot log 6 paddle 
sensor they would be willing to part with?


  Mine broke in 2? Don't ask me how. It went in in 1 piece and came out in 2. 
Anyways B wants $500 for a replacement and I can't see myself spending that 
much for sensor replacement. If I can't find one at a reasonable price, I will 
seek permission from the admiral to replace my wind, depth and speed. I do like 
the current B and G series (Triton?) but would appreciate any input on the best 
bang for the buck.


  If you do have a sensor, please let me know how much you want for it.


  Cheers,
  Doug


  Celtic Knot
  85 33-2 cb ___

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Stus-List Short Genoa Track on 35-III

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Just wondering if anyone is using the short Genoa tracks just forward of the
primary winches on the 35-III.

Doug Allardyce
C 35-III
Bullet
Detroit
_/)~~~_/)

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Stus-List C 41 Wing Keel

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Checking to see if anyone has experience with C 41's with the wing keel
(6'2" draft) . I'm interested in the overall performance and stability. I'm
just trying to get a feel for what I might be giving up with the wing, and
to know how tender the boat might be.


Doug
_/)~~~_/)

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two blade 
16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade Maxprop. 
Less vibration.


Doug Allardyce

C 35-III


"BULLET"

Detroit

_/)~~~_/) 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 5:55 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Jake Brodersen
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3


  Sam,

   

  My Martec doesn’t like to turn at slow speeds. I can actually feel the blades 
flopping around if I’m near idle speed.  It’s not a big issue, but the prop 
does have some favorite rpm ranges.  Mine is now about 12 years old and has 
never been rebuilt.  I only average about 50 hours a year motoring though.

   

  Jake

   

  Jake Brodersen

  C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

  Hampton VA

   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam 
Wheeler via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 16:13
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Sam Wheeler 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

   

  Thanks, everyone!  

   

  Tim and Dave, you mentioned issues getting the Martec to open at low revs.  
Would a short boost to high revs when you start the engine solve that issue?

   

  Sam

   
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

I think so. Not much maintenance in fresh water. Just grease it every spring.


 

Doug Allardyce

C 35-III


"BULLET"

Detroit


_/)~~~_/) 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Sam Wheeler 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 6:58 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Sam Wheeler
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3


  Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a 
Max-Prop is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those retail 
for a non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.  Plus ongoing 
maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?


  On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two 
blade 16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade 
Maxprop. Less vibration.


Doug Allardyce

C 35-III


"BULLET"

Detroit


_/)~~~_/) 
  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 5:55 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Jake Brodersen
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3


  Sam,



  My Martec doesn’t like to turn at slow speeds. I can actually feel the 
blades flopping around if I’m near idle speed.  It’s not a big issue, but the 
prop does have some favorite rpm ranges.  Mine is now about 12 years old and 
has never been rebuilt.  I only average about 50 hours a year motoring though.



  Jake



  Jake Brodersen

  C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

  Hampton VA







  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam 
Wheeler via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 16:13
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Sam Wheeler <samwheeler.s...@gmail.com>
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3



  Thanks, everyone!  



  Tim and Dave, you mentioned issues getting the Martec to open at low 
revs.  Would a short boost to high revs when you start the engine solve that 
issue?



  Sam




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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Chuck,
I installed a Garhauer RV20-1SL several years ago now. I have an Offshore rig 
so the mast and boom already had the needed brackets for mounting. You will 
want to ask for the strong springs (yellow) when you order it. There are three. 
Great van for main trimming. I lead it back to the cockpit. You will find even 
with the strong springs the boom will be some what springy, so you will 
probably want to keep your topping lift, or put the main halyard on the boom 
when you put the boat away for the day. It will support the boom when I drop 
the main, but again a little spongy. I have a topping lift lead back to the 
cockpit, and leave it a little slack when sailing, and tighten it up after the 
main is down. I hopes this helps.

Doug Allardyce
Bullet 
C 35-3
Detroit
_/)~~~_/) 
  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Saur 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2016 12:48 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Chuck Saur
  Subject: Stus-List Boom vanging...


  Here's another post to get some experience-based advising.  I am looking to 
purchase a rigid boom vang to replace the topping lift (damn thang) which is 
always in the way of everything.   I will also replace the blocks/line I have 
as manual vang. Tangs are built-in on the boom and mast base. I don't want 
hydraulics, but wonder who can recommend which vang/size and other 
considerations (vendor, etc) based on your purchase/use of them.


  There is Forespar, Garhauer, Boomkicker, etc.  Some are less expensive but 
appear the same.  Thoughts?








  Chuck Saur
  Morning Sky
  C 35-3
  Hessel Michigan___

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Re: Stus-List Stuffing Box Packing Recommendation needed

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Pete,
You should find this site a big help.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

Doug Allardyce
C 35 III

"BULLET"
_/)~~~_/)

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of kelly
petew via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, January 01, 2016 10:55 AM
  To: cnc-list
  Cc: kelly petew
  Subject: Stus-List Stuffing Box Packing Recommendation needed


  Happy New Year to All!!
  I have a 30-2 and the stuff box was leaking noticeably all last season.
While periodic tightening helped, I'm guessing it's time to renew the
packing.
  And While a dripless seal would be great, it's not in the boat "budget".

  Any thoughts to share on preferred packing materials would be greatly
appreciated.

  Pete W.
  Siren Song
  1991 30MKII
  Deltaville, Va.



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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Sam,
I purchased a 1985 35-III about three years ago, and one of the initial 
upgrades was refrigeration. I wanted cold beer for my crew and I whenever we 
were out sailing or at the dock talking over the days race. I installed a 
Domestic CU-86 CoolMatic 80 Series Condensing Unit - Air Cooled, with a 
Domestic VD-09 CoolMatic 80 Series Evaporating Unit. I liked the CU-86 unit 
because it is smaller than most compressor units. It is designed so that it can 
be mounted on a bulkhead (no need to fabricate a shelf). In the case of the 35, 
it hangs on the bulkhead behind the ice box. Easy install. Nice and neat, out 
of the way. It generates almost no heat, and I never hear it running. It seems 
to be very efficient because I can sail all day 5-6 hrs running a complete set 
of instruments, a sail comp unit, 2 GPS's, an inverter powered laptop, with the 
refrigeration on two group 31 batteries with minimal battery loss. I'm in 
Michigan and the summers are generally in the 80's. I have not added any 
insulation to the box, and beer is always cold.

The unit was purchased online from Defender Marine. The CU-86 Condensing Unit 
was $755.00, and the VD-09 Evaporating Unit was $260.00. If your interested I 
can send you pictures of the installation.

I don't have any experience with the unit you referenced. I'm not sure how to 
install that unit on a 35 III. With the unit I described, I can keep a bag of 
ice cubs in the evaporator for cool drinks, which also makes the unit more 
efficient. I would go with a DC system if it were me. Its always running, 
always cold whether you are at the dock on shore power or out on the water.


Doug Allardyce
"BULLET"
C 35 MK III

_/)~~~_/) ~~~

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Sam Wheeler 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 9:38 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Sam Wheeler
  Subject: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III


  Hi everyone,


  I'm new here.  I recently purchased the 1984 C 35 mk III Spanish Dancer.  
My goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to live on and 
capable enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm extremely excited 
about this one.  I've been sailing since I was a kid but this is my first 
(non-dinghy) boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring you all with a lot of 
stupid questions over the next few months.


  First up: Refrigeration.  My boat doesn't have it.  Has anyone added 
refrigeration to a 35-3?  How's the stock insulation in the ice chest?  Any 
suggestions on what works or doesn't?


  Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a night 
away from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with a holding 
plate system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system.  That would keep 
the load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the compressor running 
as often, and it should store enough cooling in the plate to last for daysails 
and short trips away from the dock.


  On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined up, 
and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit starts 
to look pretty appealing.  Has anyone used that or something similar?  I'm a 
little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting the compressor 
(which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with what looks like 
minimal insulation between it and the evaporator.


  Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at: 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881


  Focusing on air cooling at the moment.  I'd rather listen to compressor noise 
and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in.


  Thanks in advance!  I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems like a 
great community.


  Sam


  Spanish Dancer
  C 35 mk III
  San Francisco___

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Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Could it be siphoning in through your bilge pump discharge hose?

Doug
"BULLET"
C 35 MK III

_/)~~~_/) ~~~
  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Sailnomad 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 11:46 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Sailnomad
  Subject: Stus-List Water Ingress ??


  When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely no 
water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in, maybe 2 
quarts an hour, even in calm seas.
  I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem 
to be tight and I have no "smile".

  I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel 
bolts.
  Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on 
the leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.

  Ahmet
  S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
  S/V Tabasco C 25
  Winthrop, MA, USA

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Re: Stus-List C 33 mkii mast step revisited

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Dave,
A fellow club member with a 33-2 had big problems with his mast step to the 
point that he couldn't keep his rig tight. He did allot of rebuilding inside 
the boat, including the cavity under the step that is filled with high density 
foam. After 30+ years it breaks down and you can't get proper torque on the 
leading keel bolt. If you have the "smile" on the leading portion of the keel 
where it beds up against the fiberglass hull, I would guess that you no longer 
have the support under the mast step that you need, and tightening the keel 
bolt just starts to compress the step adding to the problem. This has been a 
common issue on several C models. I have a 35-3 that needed repair for that 
reason. Not an easy fix, but it can be done. If you want to share you email 
address, I will send you pictures of the my 35-3 fix.

Doug

 _/)~~~_/)  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Dave Syer via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2015 12:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Syer
Subject: Stus-List C 33 mkii mast step revisited


Hi All,

So I checked the various posts and photos available, and chatted with one 
lister, but I have yet to see a really clear description of outright failure of 
the mast step area, other than repeat references to the 33ii collapsing mast 
step syndrome, and the assertion that the construction is inadequate.  So, I 
took my (unfailed) boat apart, 'cuz, well, that's what I do...  

The mast sits in a rectangular cast-alloy base, that is longer and wider than 
the mast itself.  This allows mostly for shimming fore and aft to adjust mast 
rake.  
The alloy base sits on the 'glass liner, which sits on a piece of 3/4"plywood, 
which sits on a pile of putty,(bog) which sits on a built up section of glass 
where one of the keel bolts penetrates and on a fabricated fiberglass 
cross-member spans the bilge, athwartships. This cross-member (aka "floor 
timber") is a hollow fiberglass beam which is semi-elliptical in section.  
(like an inverted trough.)  It is part of the "spider" or whatever they called 
it, which stiffens the hull.
 
The mast is still stepped, so I can't yet go further, but for now I can see 
three areas of potential failure: 
 
1: The wood can deteriorate allowing the mast to settle by its thickness, 
2: the putty could fracture crumble, move, fail, - ditto, 
3: worst of all, the cross-member could conceivably collapse, allowing the mast 
to settle by some portion of its height.  This would not be good

If my mast step has settled, it's not by much.   To me, the wood and putty part 
is kind of cheesy,  and I'll re-do that anyway because it bugs me and I think 
wood in a wet place is bad news.   The crossmember looks really strong, and 
while I have this apart I could get clever and reinforce it, but it may be 
totally unnecessary.   

Has anyone actually observed the mode of this particular failure?  Can anyone 
confirm that this crossmember has been a failure point in normal use and has 
contributed to this purported flaw in the boat?

Thanks!  Dave

BTW, I will document and post this work for the benefit of future generations.  

___

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Re: Stus-List CC 35-3 Mast Step rebuild

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Tim,
Do you have an out side email address. I just finished what you are about to 
start, and I have lots of pictures.

Doug
Bullet
CC 35-3
Troy, Mi
_/)~~~_/)  
  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Tim 
Goodyear via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, April 10, 2015 3:28 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List CC 35-3 Mast Step rebuild


  I have a mast step reinforcement / rebuild project ahead of me (ahead of the 
yard anyway) this spring.  Looking closely, the fiberglass that the aluminium 
step plate sits on has sunk compared to the area around it and probably flexes 
more when the mast is stepped and there is pressure on the rigging.  I know 
others have done this before - does anyone have photos  / advice they can share 
so I can plan this out with the yard?   I have pictures from Jake's RR job, 
but only one showing the step in that set.


  Thanks!


  Tim
  Mojito
  CC 35-3
  Branford, CT___

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Re: Stus-List Rigging Question

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Tim,
You could always drill the holes for a larger bolt.


Doug Allardyce

Bullet

1985 CC 35 MK III

 Detroit

_/)~~~_/) 


  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Tim 
Goodyear via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 3:44 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Rigging Question


  There was mention recently of 'hooks that insert into the mast collar then 
bolt to the mast to hold the deck down when running rigging is under tension.  


  On my 35-3, the bolt through the mast has started to tear at the mast column 
and elongate the holes.  I could change the length of the hooks and create 
another hole somewhere else on the mast.  In that case, has anyone used a 
sleeve to stop the relatively small bolt sawing at the mast tube?  Does anyone 
have any other solutions out there (e.g. wire to the mast step each side)?


  Thanks,


  Tim
  Mojito
  CC 35-3
  Branford, CT___

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Re: Stus-List CC 38 MK III Info

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Thanks Pierre,
That helps a lot. Impressive numbers. I'm lucky to get 30 degrees out of my
35-3, and I need to reef way before 15 TWS with the #1 up which is a mylar
sail.

Doug
_/)~~~_/) 

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Pierre
Tremblay via CnC-List
  Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2014 9:26 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 MK III Info


  Hi Doug,


  Avalanche has a wing keel. Cannot compare with the full keel, but I can
say that upwind performance is impressive. All the experience sailor at the
club think I have the full keel because I can point so well.


  With the genoa sheeted tight in the shrouds, the telltales are streaming
up to 27 degree AWA. At 25 AWA, the windward telltales are lifting, I can
hold 20 degree AWA for few minutes without stalling, but it is slow.


  I found the polar diagram of a CC 38-3 full keel (from an ORC
International Certificate), and the VMG is at 42 degree TWA. Last summer, I
recorded my boat data during a race, and most of my tack where 85 degree
(there were no wind shift during those).


  It is tender that other sailboat, but not that much. With my cruising
sails, I have to reef early (15 knots TWS), but I think it is more related
to my old 15 years old cruising sails (read potato bag shape). During a
race, we had the #1 genoa up, and with 15 knots TWS, never heeled more than
22 degree. With the huge sail plan, it heel faster that other boat, but it
rapidly sits on its cheeks. Huge beam those 38-3. I have all sorts of
comment on my boat; it looks pregnant, looks like a squirrel with a mouthful
of nuts, etc...


  Around here (St-Lawrence 1000 Islands), the shoal draft is priceless.


  Pierre Tremblay
  Avalanche #54988
  CC38-3 WK, hull #76


  De : Doug Allardyce via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  À : CnC- List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Envoyé le : samedi 8 novembre 2014 10h44
  Objet : Stus-List CC 38 MK III Info


  I'm looking at a 1987 CC 38 MK III with a wing keel. Does anyone out
there
  have any experience on how the upwind performance is with the wing keel at
  5' 6 draft vs the full keel at 7' 7 draft. I understand that the full
keel
  model will probably point better, I'm just trying to get a feel for what I
  might be giving up with the wing. Also curious to know how tender the boat
  might be. Plan to do some casual club racing.

  Doug
  _/)~~~_/) 




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Stus-List CC 38 MK III Info

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

I'm looking at a 1987 CC 38 MK III with a wing keel. Does anyone out there
have any experience on how the upwind performance is with the wing keel at
5' 6 draft vs the full keel at 7' 7 draft. I understand that the full keel
model will probably point better, I'm just trying to get a feel for what I
might be giving up with the wing. Also curious to know how tender the boat
might be. Plan to do some casual club racing.

Doug
_/)~~~_/) 



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Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Has anyone out there done any reconstruction in that cavity under the mast
step where the keel bolt comes up. My mast step is solid, but I can't seem
to get the forward keel bolt tight enough. I dropped the keel last spring
and rebeded it with 5200 but the forward bolt still leaks after a hard race.


Doug
Bullet
CC 35 MK 3, 1985
_/)~~~_/) 


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