Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller for the CnC 35 mk2

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

Did you get this resolved?  I actually have one I'm not using (as I
switched to tiller).

John

On Tue, Feb 6, 2018 at 6:55 PM, Jeremy Johnston via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good evening everyone,
>
> I'm new to email distribution lists so I hope I'm doing this right. I just
> bought a CnC 35 mk2! She's a '74 and needs work but her bones look good to
> me. The one thing missing is the emergency tiller.
>
> Looking at the square-ish attachment on the cockpit sole it seems like it
> would be easy for a machine shop to fab a piece to fit other that which I
> would then attach to a wooden or metal tiller arm.
>
> Does anyone know if these are already available out there? If not, any
> tips for making one? The boat is an 11hr drive from me and I didn't think
> to measure that square piece it fits on. Do any schematics around refer to
> it's size so I can work with a machine shop on this?
>
> Thanks so much, looking forward to joining the family !
>
> Jeremy
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
>
>
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Stus-List C 35 mk ii rudder removal question

[John Rand via CnC-List]

I have a C 35 Mk II and I would like to drop the rudder.



I have removed the Edson Marine steering quadrant.  The quadrant was
wrapped around a piece which is in turn wrapped around the rudder shaft.
This piece has the rectangular key which matches with the quadrant.



I can’t see any bolts on the piece, or any way to remove it (which I will
have to do to drop the rudder).



Would anyone have a clue about how to remove this?



Thanks in advance.



John
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Re: Stus-List Converted to SmartPlug Shore Power

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Just did this myself last week as part of a revamp of shore power.  Pretty
simple.

John
C 35 MkII

On Wed, Jun 14, 2017 at 11:36 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Danny,
>
> The conversion kit ran me around $130 when I bought it during a Defender
> sale. See http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C328%
> 7C2290035%7C2290039=3472976
>
> Converting the cable took me 15-20 minutes. The boat side took about an
> hour because I had to drill new holes. As long as the bottom of your inlet
> isn’t up against the deck, that conversion will also be 15-20 minutes.
>
> Inlet installation video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vB481DZE1vs
>
> Cable conversion video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xL-JzGtFygY Use
> lots of soap!
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 14, 2017, at 11:22 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Edd,
>
> What did that cost you?  e.i. parts and time?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Danny
>
> On 6/14/2017 11:08 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Just wanted to pass along my success in installing a SmartPlug shore power
> system on to the Enterprise.
>
> As some of you may know, the shore power system that exists on most of our
> boats is not the best of technology (70 years old) and has been the cause
> of many a boat fire due to excessive heat and short circuiting. See:
> http://threesheetsnw.com/files/2014/03/PowerCord.jpg
>
> After hearing a few horror stories, I heard about the SmartPlug system:
> http://smartplug.com
>
> The basic combo kit comes with everything you need to change your boat’s
> inlet and change the connector on your existing cable. The cable
> installation was an easy one. The boat end, however, given the placement of
> the existing inlet and its proximity to the deck, required some new holes
> to be drilled, but certainly an easy enough job with a drill and hole saw,
> and well worth the added layer of safety.
>
> If you ever use shore power, I can’t recommend this upgrade enough.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
> Enterprise YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/
> UCOgsTCs2akqxThptvm_Zxyw
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
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> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Danny is that the Watco Danish oil?

Thanks.

John

On Tue, Jun 6, 2017 at 9:48 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dave!
>
> a week in the BVIs ate up 2 weekends and then I threw my back out and have
> been on the disabled list for a week...
>
> Danny
>
> On 6/6/2017 9:41 AM, David via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Where have you been?  No boat yard sightings last few weeks
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> 
> Date: 6/6/17 08:35 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question
>
> I'm doing this on my Tartan this year and I've learned a few things in
> trying several different techniques in applying the watco oil and liquid
> wax.
>
> In the owner's manual for my boat (which was on board) it stated that the
> watco danish finish was applied by wetsanding with 300 grit wet/dry sand
> paper.  Then wetsanding again with 400 grit.  Followed with the watco wax.
> It did not mention any kind of abrasive application.  Probably due to the
> wetsanding.  It also stated that this process should never have to be done
> again as long as a coat of wax was allied every year.  well that never got
> done and some of the wood was pretty dried out.
>
> So, I decided I would go back to the wet sanding.  At first, by hand with
> sanding blocks.  I had really good results in the wood that still held a
> healthy luster.  Not so great with the really dried out pieces.  Some areas
> seemed to have a wax buildup, very heavy and coarse.  I was not happy with
> how these pieces were coming out with the hand sanding.  Initially, I
> thought I was being too particular.  They looked much better but not like
> new.
>
> I took most of the doors home to work on them in the garage and did some
> experimenting.  I tried going to just wetsanding the wax product.  although
> it looked great when finished, 3 weeks later it was starting to fade on the
> slightly dry pieces.  In fact making the peices look even worse.  I assume
> this to be the wax having been absorbed into the grain and not being fully
> removed by polishing with a rag.
>
> So I decided to go back to wetsanding with the oil.  Then, I went to try
> and speed up the sanding, I used a vibrating palm sander.  This is now my
> go to method.  The idea behind wetsanding the oil is that, the wood dust
> created from sanding, mixes with the oil to create a kind of slurry.  This
> then gets down into the grain, seals and protects the wood.  The oil dries
> really hard on a rag or, any other surface, after a few days.  So, it is
> way more than simply oiling.
>
> The palm sander with the 300 and then 400 grit paper goes much faster and
> brings a much smoother finish.  The doors I used it on do look new with the
> exception of a few scratches.  I'm thinking I may end up going over the
> troubled areas of the builtin areas that were really bad next year again.
>
> Some areas had some water staining.  That was not completely removed but
> almost unnoticeable after the palm sanding.  The palm sanding was very
> light over most parts and a bit heavier over the built up waxy areas.  The
> doors and hatch covers, I did last, was probably 3 weeks ago.  I have not
> waxed them yet but they still look incredible.  I used the natural version
> of the oil and as the finish cured/dried the wood got lighter, closer to
> that nice honey color I was hoping for!
>
> So, I wasted some time but, gained a lot of experience with this product
> and will definitely go with the palm sander from here on out.  The added
> step is well worth the effort and really is not nearly as labor intensive
> as the hand sanding.  The fact that you're wetsanding keeps dust to a
> minimum but, you get some dripped oil.  Have plenty of drop clothes and
> rags cus, it dries really hard!  So, leave time after each sanding session
> for cleaning up drips at the end.
>
> Hope this helps someone save some time.
>
> Danny
>
> On 6/5/2017 9:08 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
>
> A white 3M Scotchbright pad is about the same coarseness as bronze wool.
> DO NOT use steel wool. My PO used steel  staples in upholstery, and I have
> several lines of rust colored pockmarks in the teak.
>
>
>
> Watco Danish Teak Oil is a very close match for the color of the teak in
> both of my mid-70s boats.
>
>
>
> Step 1: wash with Murphy’s Oil soap & let dry
>
> Step 2: Lemon Oil
>
> Step 3: Watco oil & buff when it is all soaked into the teak
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Gary Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, June 05, 2017 7:02 PM
> *To:* C List  

Re: Stus-List One more kick at windlass for C 34

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Actually, I installed a Tigres Lofrans on a 35 MkII. That's a horizontal
windlass.  The installation isn't completely finished, as it still needs
wiring.  Because I wanted to include a lot of chain, I have a PVC pipe
receiving the chain and leading it back to v-berth lockers.  I also
included substantial backing plates, and an anchor roller.

John Rand
Wit's End
C 35 MkII

On Mon, May 29, 2017 at 12:10 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh, I also discovered that I couldn't get the full-width shelf into the
> locker, so I tabbed supports to either side and bolted the shelf to those.
> The angled insert gives the right entry angle for the chain to the
> windlass. http://imgur.com/HHLi2nR.jpg
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 28 May 2017 at 19:20, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Jim, Did you do the install? How does the shelf fit into the locker?  I
>> tried to start mocking up an installation of my own based loosely on Dave
>> Godwin's.
>> http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2014/10/anchor-windlass-shelf.html?m=1
>>
>> I quickly discovered that my solid cardboard shelf couldn't be removed if
>> kept flat and straight like a board that went full width of the locker.
>>
>> Does yours have any support beneath?
>>
>> What about fasteners to anchor the shelf to the bulkhead?  Or is it all
>> just epoxy and fiberglass tabs?
>>
>> Discussed with Dave and he agrees that a hybrid of his install and Tom
>> Buscaglia's would be ideal.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/15752113372/in/al
>> bum-72157629350057893/
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/15565407757/in/al
>> bum-72157629350057893/
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Hi Alex,

I moved my batteries from under the quarter birth to under the port
settee.  The wires ran from the engine area under the galley sink or aft
along the port side from the bow.  I've used 2 AWG for this.

John
C 35 MkII

On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 1:40 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alex — remember that the fuse or breaker protects the *wire*, not the
> device.  A 15-amp breaker will be appropriate for any wire down to 18AWG in
> the engine space.  The only branch circuit devices that need specific fuse
> sizing are things with motors in them (pumps or blowers).
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Feb 17, 2017, at 9:51 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Joe,
>
> That is pretty comprehensive.  I am saving this to my folder where I store
> electrical wisdom.  Did you convert to breakers or kept a fuse based system?
>
> I ask because the standard BS panels are supplied with all 15 A breakers
> which is too much for a lot of my branch circuits, whereas their fuses vary.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
> a...@airsensing.com
> (416) 203-9858
>
>
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Hi Alex,

I also have a C 35-II (1974).  Just moved my batteries and am installing
a windlass and solar panels.  Lots of electrical questions, AC and DC.
Thanks for posting this.  I'll be following it closely.

John
john.e.r...@gmail.com


On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 1:49 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is now
> going to get new cabin wiring.
>
>
>
> I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head is
> spinning, so thought I ‘d turn to the list for some collective wisdom
>
>
>
> Here’s a few:
>
>
>
> What sort of panels do people recommend?  The spread is for a couple
> hundred bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined AC/DC
> Blue Seas baby.
>
>
>
> I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with one
> 6 gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav Station.
>
>
>
> SHORE POWER
>
>
>
> Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer?
>
>
>
> Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on your
> incoming?
>
>
>
> BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION
>
>
>
> Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle
> also connected with battery ground?  Has anyone ever considered bonding the
> aluminum toe rails?
>
>
>
> RFI shielding
>
>
>
> What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk?
>
>
>
> That’s it for now.
>
>
>
> This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and Standard
> Instruments.  The power supply for the electric motor was done already by a
> marine electrical guy and works extremely well.
>
>
>
> Suggestions?
>
>
>
> Let ‘er roll!
>
>
>
> Alex
>
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
>
> C 35-II (1974) no 282
>
> a...@airsensing.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Pins in Chainplates

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Yes, you tap them out (and back in) with a nail countersink.


John

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 9:34 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes, that pin is to hold down the plate covering the bedding compound.
>
> Bruce
>
> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>
> On Jan 31, 2017, at 8:42 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> They are likely there to hold down the bedding plate.  Sometimes you have
> screws and pins which can be lifted up for rebedding around the chainplates.
>
>
> On Jan 31, 2017, at 5:36 12PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Does anybody know what the heck these pins in C chainplates are for?
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTa2dfMFlmWHlsR0U
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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>
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Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Hi Randy,

I've been thinking about this myself.

I have a 35 Mk II, which came out of the egg in 1974.  It was not well
cared for.

When I examined the chain plates, everything looked OK.  But I decided to
remove them anyway, as there was some leaking, just as you have.  When I
went to remove the ss bolts, they twisted off in the wrench, completely
rusted through inside the fiberglass knees - a possible dismasting waiting
to happen!

I did follow the Don Casey prescription of digging out about a half inch of
core where the chain plate goes through the deck, filled the hole with
thickened resin and sealed the aluminum cover with 3M 4000.  This fixed the
leaks.  However, I'm not absolutely positive this was the right thing to
do.  I think what I should have done was to drill test holes around the
suspect area, and then removed the top layer of fiberglass, and replaced
the core.  I think the real problem is that once moisture gets into the
core, it has no way to get out, and will eventually travel.  I don't know
if I had thought about that at the time.  Maybe I just didn't want to think
about it!

John
C 35 MkII
Wit's End

St. Petersburg FL

On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 7:52 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you don't have a bent nail, an Allen wrench works as well.
>
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Jan 29, 2017, at 22:05, RANDY via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Thanks Dennis (and Gary and Sam).  Let me see where I stand on Tuesday - I
> may be ready to epoxy if I can do the bent nail and acetone thing
> tomorrow.  Let's call or text on Tuesday.
>
> Gary - my chainplate covers are aluminum and still in good shape, just
> needed a really good cleaning (probably 44 years' worth of various sealant
> jobs built up on their undersides).
>
> Sam - yes my chainplates bolt to fiberglass "knees" tabbed to the hull.
> And the chainplates and knees are in good shape - no sign of weakening from
> exposure to moisture.  I just want to make sure I do a proper job of
> sealing it all up so I don't get more coring in the deck going forward.
> Unfortunately it looks like my boat's previous owners didn't do a proper
> job (e.g. per Don Casey's prescriptions) of keeping this area sealed, and a
> little bit of coring occurred.  The starboard side was all gooped up with
> clear silicone, and the port side had an ineffective bead of white caulk
> around the edge of the cover, and both sides had hard-as-rock probably
> original white-colored sealant under those other sealants.
>
> I'll be using polysulfide (Life Caulk) per Don Casey for the re-bedding
> sealant.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"Dennis" 
> *Sent: *Sunday, January 29, 2017 4:30:09 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates
>
> Randy,
>
> You're on the right track.  Wish I'd known you were doing that, I would
> have stopped by and taken a peek.  I'm back up in the mountains now.
>
> If it was me, I'd remove the wet core as far back as I could with bent
> nail, etc., dry it with acetone and/or heat gun, tape the area, inject some
> neat epoxy until it was level with the deck, use bent nail to agitate it
> then quickly suck out the epoxy.  That will coat the exposed surfaces so
> the thickened epoxy will bond better.  Then I'd inject thickened epoxy, let
> it cure and re-install the chalnplates.  Don't forget to chamfer the hole
> so the bedding plate doesn't sit down on a square edged cut.
>
> I'm headed back down to the airport Tuesday afternoon.  Got to pick up my
> ski buddies Wednesday morning. I might be able to swing by the dry storage
> on the way.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Jan 29, 2017 3:48 PM, "RANDY via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> Listers-
>
> We're having a spate of nice weather here in Denver - supposed to be sunny
> all week and 61 degrees tomorrow (yes, in late January / early February).
>
> So today I pulled the chainplates on my 1972 C 30 MK I as part of a
> planned rebedding job (I confirmed leaks down the chainplates last year).
> Unfortunately after removing all old sealant I found some wet and rotten
> wood core material between the outer and inner deck skins around the
> chainplate cutout holes.
>
> Now I want to solicit the list's collective wisdom on how to deal with
> this the right way.  The lazy approach would be to just reinstall the
> chainplates and inject new sealant all around, including into the void
> between deck skins where rotten core came out, butting up against remaining
> (and possibly still wet) core.
>
> On the other hand I've read everything Don Casey has to say about cored
> deck repair.  I could consider removing core around all sides of the
> cutout, about 

Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[John Rand via CnC-List]

I just used mineral spirits and a tooth brush.

John

On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 2:54 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for service
> (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the bolts had fused
> to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB Blaster, vinegar and
> acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got them off.
>
> The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable
> solvent I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and
> kerosene are out.
>
> Joel
>
>
>
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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Re: Stus-List Bow Hatch Replacement

[John Rand via CnC-List]

On my C 35 MkII I got a really good deal on a Bomar hatch.  It was a
little larger than the old one, so I just enlarged the hole, patched with
fiberglass and set the new one with 3M 4000.  It fits great, no leaks.

John

On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 4:01 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brandon:
>
> My previous boat, an Ericson 30, had wood framed hatches.  I replaced them
> with Bomar hatches, and removed some of the fiberglass to which the old
> hatches were mounted.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> I'm looking to replace my forward hatch on my C 35 Mk1.  Dimensions are
> 21.625" X 25.375" OD, 20.75" X 24.5 ID.  Any suggestions on what to replace
> it with?  I can't seem to find anything to fit, so should I consider
> removing the "lip" the old hatch fit over?  Or should i epoxy in an
> additional spacer to get the frame down to a standard size, say maybe the
> Bowmar 20 3/16" X 30 3/16" or similar?  Or should I just build a new hatch
> out of fiberglass and wood frame like the original that's on the boat?  I'd
> prefer something that's going to be water tight, obviously.  and it would
> be nice to have some light coming through.
>
> Thanks in advance for any tips and recommendations.
>
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>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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Re: Stus-List Maxwell Liberty windlass - experience? opinions?

[John Rand via CnC-List]

I got a Lofrans Tigres from billacle.com for $1750.  It's horizontal, and
way more than I need for a C 35.

http://us.binnacle.com/p5536/Lofrans-Tigres-Windlass-12-Vdc-1500w/product_info.html

John

On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 9:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've got a 25 year old Maxwell vertical.  I've only used it a couple of
> times, but it seems very robust.
>
> On Thu, Dec 29, 2016 at 10:14 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I don't recall anyone complaining that their windlass was too big!
>> Unfortunately, I have no experience with the Maxwell. I just installed a
>> Lewmar that I'm pleased with. It is all stainless, which was important to
>> me. No manual recovery, though, which is a downside.
>>
>> Andy
>> C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI
>> USA02840
>>
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>>
>> > On Dec 29, 2016, at 21:37, Steve Thomas via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Maxwell Liberty RC2500, 12 volt.
>> >
>> > Westmarine had one of these for sale at a considerable discount, and I
>> have been looking around for something for my 1980 C project boat. The
>> boat has never has any sort of windlass installed, and I want to get some
>> serious ground tackle for cruising purposes. Long story short, there was
>> only one in stock so I placed an order to ship to store, but I could return
>> it when it comes in if I change my mind.
>> >
>> > I really like the built in geared manual recovery, and the chain tube
>> is round which would be easier to plug for passages.The stock gypsy is for
>> 3/8 chain, but there is/was a 5/16 version that will fit. It is big and
>> powerful for the size of boat, and maybe overkill to spend a boat buck for
>> a new windlass. I also wonder why Maxwell decided to stop making that
>> particular line, so any experience,  information, or thoughtful comment
>> regarding these things would be much appreciated. I have never sailed,
>> except for an afternoon day sail on Jim Watt's boat, on a boat that was
>> equipped with a vertical windlass, let alone one with a capstan.
>> >
>> > http://www.maxwellmarine.com/PDF/Catalogue/MAXWELL_PS_2010-2011_usa.pdf
>> >
>> > Steve Thomas
>> > C
>> > Merritt Island, FL
>> >
>> > ___
>> >
>> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> >
>> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
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>>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
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Re: Stus-List Energy audit spreadsheet

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Joel, here's one I found online somewhere.  I can't really vouch for it.
You'll just have to look it over carefully.

John

On Wed, Dec 28, 2016 at 2:24 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Happy New Year to all!
>
> I'm starting to think about adding solar panels when I get a new bimini.
> Does anyone have an energy audit spreadsheet they can share as a starting
> point?
>
> I've already switched to LEDS, so my power hogs are the refrigerator and
> auto-pilot.  The plotter and computer/monitor, phone charging all need to
> be considered, but I'm sure I'm missing stuff.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
>


boat_dc_loads.xls
Description: MS-Excel spreadsheet
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Stus-List C 35 MkII original location of batteries

[John Rand via CnC-List]

I have a C 35 MkII, and can't figure out where the batteries were
originally. Mine now has batteries under the quarter birth, and they don't
really fit there (currently no battery boxes, straps, etc).
So where should they go?

Thanks,

John
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