Danny is that the Watco Danish oil? Thanks.
John On Tue, Jun 6, 2017 at 9:48 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Dave! > > a week in the BVIs ate up 2 weekends and then I threw my back out and have > been on the disabled list for a week... > > Danny > > On 6/6/2017 9:41 AM, David via CnC-List wrote: > > Where have you been? No boat yard sightings last few weeks > > > > Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Date: 6/6/17 08:35 (GMT-05:00) > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com> <djhaug...@juno.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question > > I'm doing this on my Tartan this year and I've learned a few things in > trying several different techniques in applying the watco oil and liquid > wax. > > In the owner's manual for my boat (which was on board) it stated that the > watco danish finish was applied by wetsanding with 300 grit wet/dry sand > paper. Then wetsanding again with 400 grit. Followed with the watco wax. > It did not mention any kind of abrasive application. Probably due to the > wetsanding. It also stated that this process should never have to be done > again as long as a coat of wax was allied every year. well that never got > done and some of the wood was pretty dried out. > > So, I decided I would go back to the wet sanding. At first, by hand with > sanding blocks. I had really good results in the wood that still held a > healthy luster. Not so great with the really dried out pieces. Some areas > seemed to have a wax buildup, very heavy and coarse. I was not happy with > how these pieces were coming out with the hand sanding. Initially, I > thought I was being too particular. They looked much better but not like > new. > > I took most of the doors home to work on them in the garage and did some > experimenting. I tried going to just wetsanding the wax product. although > it looked great when finished, 3 weeks later it was starting to fade on the > slightly dry pieces. In fact making the peices look even worse. I assume > this to be the wax having been absorbed into the grain and not being fully > removed by polishing with a rag. > > So I decided to go back to wetsanding with the oil. Then, I went to try > and speed up the sanding, I used a vibrating palm sander. This is now my > go to method. The idea behind wetsanding the oil is that, the wood dust > created from sanding, mixes with the oil to create a kind of slurry. This > then gets down into the grain, seals and protects the wood. The oil dries > really hard on a rag or, any other surface, after a few days. So, it is > way more than simply oiling. > > The palm sander with the 300 and then 400 grit paper goes much faster and > brings a much smoother finish. The doors I used it on do look new with the > exception of a few scratches. I'm thinking I may end up going over the > troubled areas of the builtin areas that were really bad next year again. > > Some areas had some water staining. That was not completely removed but > almost unnoticeable after the palm sanding. The palm sanding was very > light over most parts and a bit heavier over the built up waxy areas. The > doors and hatch covers, I did last, was probably 3 weeks ago. I have not > waxed them yet but they still look incredible. I used the natural version > of the oil and as the finish cured/dried the wood got lighter, closer to > that nice honey color I was hoping for! > > So, I wasted some time but, gained a lot of experience with this product > and will definitely go with the palm sander from here on out. The added > step is well worth the effort and really is not nearly as labor intensive > as the hand sanding. The fact that you're wetsanding keeps dust to a > minimum but, you get some dripped oil. Have plenty of drop clothes and > rags cus, it dries really hard! So, leave time after each sanding session > for cleaning up drips at the end. > > Hope this helps someone save some time. > > Danny > > On 6/5/2017 9:08 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: > > A white 3M Scotchbright pad is about the same coarseness as bronze wool. > DO NOT use steel wool. My PO used steel staples in upholstery, and I have > several lines of rust colored pockmarks in the teak. > > > > Watco Danish Teak Oil is a very close match for the color of the teak in > both of my mid-70s boats. > > > > Step 1: wash with Murphy’s Oil soap & let dry > > Step 2: Lemon Oil > > Step 3: Watco oil & buff when it is all soaked into the teak > > > > > > Rick Brass > > *Imzadi *C&C 38 mk 2 > > *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1 > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Gary Russell via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, June 05, 2017 7:02 PM > *To:* C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Cc:* Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com> <captnga...@gmail.com> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question > > > > I would never use steel wool on a boat. The steel fiber will stay on the > surface and leave rust stains. I suggest you use bronze wool or a fine > Scotchbright pad instead. > > > > Gary > > S/V Kaylarah > > '90 C&C 37+ > > East Greenwich, RI, USA > > > ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ > > > > On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 6:54 PM, robert via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Matt, > > If your 'teak ply bulkhead' is in fact 'veneer' I would not sand it....a > better way is to make a mixture of TSP, ammonia and water and after wetting > the veneer with it, dab 000 steelwool, very fine steelwool and rub over the > surface(s).....repeat as necessary.....rinse with water and let dry and see > what you have. > > I did the table on my boat that way and then put a danish oil on it I > bought at Lee Valley and it turned out great. > > Not that difficult but labor intensive....it was worth it. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 - 84 > Halifax, N.S. > > On 2017-06-05 12:27 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: > > Listers: > > > > I recently had my chart table refurbished by a carpenter who does very > nice woodwork. Unfortunately, the refurbished chart table highlights that > other areas of woodwork need some TLC, most notably the teak ply bulkhead > wall that the chart table connects to. Certain areas of teak surface > appear lighter in color than other areas. Any suggestions on refinishing > the teak veneer that a non-expert can safely undertake? Is sanding too > risky due to the thinness of the veneer? > > > > Matt Wolford > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > >
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