Hi Randy, I've been thinking about this myself.
I have a 35 Mk II, which came out of the egg in 1974. It was not well cared for. When I examined the chain plates, everything looked OK. But I decided to remove them anyway, as there was some leaking, just as you have. When I went to remove the ss bolts, they twisted off in the wrench, completely rusted through inside the fiberglass knees - a possible dismasting waiting to happen! I did follow the Don Casey prescription of digging out about a half inch of core where the chain plate goes through the deck, filled the hole with thickened resin and sealed the aluminum cover with 3M 4000. This fixed the leaks. However, I'm not absolutely positive this was the right thing to do. I think what I should have done was to drill test holes around the suspect area, and then removed the top layer of fiberglass, and replaced the core. I think the real problem is that once moisture gets into the core, it has no way to get out, and will eventually travel. I don't know if I had thought about that at the time. Maybe I just didn't want to think about it! John C&C 35 MkII Wit's End St. Petersburg FL On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 7:52 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > If you don't have a bent nail, an Allen wrench works as well. > > Andy > C&C 40 > Peregrine > > Andrew Burton > 61 W Narragansett > Newport, RI > USA 02840 > > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > +401 965-5260 > > On Jan 29, 2017, at 22:05, RANDY via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Thanks Dennis (and Gary and Sam). Let me see where I stand on Tuesday - I > may be ready to epoxy if I can do the bent nail and acetone thing > tomorrow. Let's call or text on Tuesday. > > Gary - my chainplate covers are aluminum and still in good shape, just > needed a really good cleaning (probably 44 years' worth of various sealant > jobs built up on their undersides). > > Sam - yes my chainplates bolt to fiberglass "knees" tabbed to the hull. > And the chainplates and knees are in good shape - no sign of weakening from > exposure to moisture. I just want to make sure I do a proper job of > sealing it all up so I don't get more coring in the deck going forward. > Unfortunately it looks like my boat's previous owners didn't do a proper > job (e.g. per Don Casey's prescriptions) of keeping this area sealed, and a > little bit of coring occurred. The starboard side was all gooped up with > clear silicone, and the port side had an ineffective bead of white caulk > around the edge of the cover, and both sides had hard-as-rock probably > original white-colored sealant under those other sealants. > > I'll be using polysulfide (Life Caulk) per Don Casey for the re-bedding > sealant. > > Cheers, > Randy > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Dennis C. via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *To: *"cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Cc: *"Dennis" <capt...@gmail.com> > *Sent: *Sunday, January 29, 2017 4:30:09 PM > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates > > Randy, > > You're on the right track. Wish I'd known you were doing that, I would > have stopped by and taken a peek. I'm back up in the mountains now. > > If it was me, I'd remove the wet core as far back as I could with bent > nail, etc., dry it with acetone and/or heat gun, tape the area, inject some > neat epoxy until it was level with the deck, use bent nail to agitate it > then quickly suck out the epoxy. That will coat the exposed surfaces so > the thickened epoxy will bond better. Then I'd inject thickened epoxy, let > it cure and re-install the chalnplates. Don't forget to chamfer the hole > so the bedding plate doesn't sit down on a square edged cut. > > I'm headed back down to the airport Tuesday afternoon. Got to pick up my > ski buddies Wednesday morning. I might be able to swing by the dry storage > on the way. > > Dennis C. > > On Jan 29, 2017 3:48 PM, "RANDY via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Listers- > > We're having a spate of nice weather here in Denver - supposed to be sunny > all week and 61 degrees tomorrow (yes, in late January / early February). > > So today I pulled the chainplates on my 1972 C&C 30 MK I as part of a > planned rebedding job (I confirmed leaks down the chainplates last year). > Unfortunately after removing all old sealant I found some wet and rotten > wood core material between the outer and inner deck skins around the > chainplate cutout holes. > > Now I want to solicit the list's collective wisdom on how to deal with > this the right way. The lazy approach would be to just reinstall the > chainplates and inject new sealant all around, including into the void > between deck skins where rotten core came out, butting up against remaining > (and possibly still wet) core. > > On the other hand I've read everything Don Casey has to say about cored > deck repair. I could consider removing core around all sides of the > cutout, about a half-inch back from each edge, using a bent nail chucked > into a power drill. Then I could fill those voids with thickened epoxy to > the edges of the cutout, and then re-bed the chainplates. > > The extreme end of the spectrum would be to try to map out the area of wet > core e.g. perhaps from the outboard edge of the chainplate cutout all the > way to the toe rail, then remove and replace the damaged core. However > that seems like a huge and complicated job, and I don't think the wet area > is that large. I haven't noticed any softness or squishiness around the > chainplates at all, but I can percussion-test it carefully. > > In the meantime I'm letting those areas dry out by leaving the chainplates > out and exposing those areas to the dry Colorado air. I may go pour some > acetone in those voids too, since Don Casey identifies that as a > core-drying technique. > > I'm leaning towards the void-filling approach. What do you think? > > Thanks, > Randy Stafford > S/V Grenadine > C&C 30-1 #7 > Ken Caryl, CO > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > >
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