Stus-List Navtec backstay psi

[Paul via CnC-List]

Brings a good question.  How do I know my headstay is set properly? I've
always wondered and never known an answer.  How do I know that my main sail
is optimum shape as a result?  

Paul Hood
C '81

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 23:58:18 -0500 (EST)
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Navtec backstay psi
Message-ID: <1743639909.488638.1575349099...@connect.xfinity.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I think rule of thumb for hydraulic backstay is 500 to 600# at the dock and
no more than 25% breaking strength maximum when sailing.  For my -10 rated
for 10,000#, that's around 2500#.  Probably much higher for your larger
backstay.   Of course this is moot if your headstay isn't set properly.
Some boats add a 2" toggle in winds under 15 knots to the headstay so the
main can be flattened without over tensioning the genoa.  Physics.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R




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Stus-List Anyone Know Ambrosia

[Paul via CnC-List]

Friend of mine looking at C 1980 markii called Ambrosia.  Does anyone
know the history on this boat?

Thanks,
Paul Hood



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Stus-List Dive Boat Fire

[Paul via CnC-List]

I currently have no detectors on my boat and although it is on my list, this
is a good reminder to speed up the install.  The way I see it, the detectors
I should have are

- smoke alarm
- propane alarm (sensor down low)
- CO detector
- gas fumes alarm (sensor down low)

I have 2  LPG tanks vented in cockpit, gas atomic 4.  

Any other suggestions from the list would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
416.799.5549 c

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 13:13:13 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Dive boat fire and egress
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I think I will swap out the CO detector for CO+Smoke.
I always think any boat that has a gasoline engine and has people sleeping
below underway needs a CO detector. 
Joe
Coquina



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Stus-List Boom tent

[Paul via CnC-List]

Neil,

I may be interested.  Can you email me off list please

Paul Hood
416-799-5549 c
paul.h...@rogers.com


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2019 18:54:16 -0400
From: schiller 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List C 35-3 Cockpit Boom Tent
Message-ID: <3290d650-3cbc-c8c5-c943-4592b8df5...@bloomingdalecom.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

C 35-3 owners:? We inherited a boom tent cockpit cover for our 35-3.? 
We had a new dodger, Bimini and connector made this year and no longer have
any need for it.? It is available to the first 35-3 owner willing to pitch
in for the shipping cost.? Pictures can be found at:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1suENnANcxBERVWsCPFHyGvHtGMV2wSRm

It has zippered doors n either side and slopes down at the backstay.

Let me know if you are interested.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC



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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 162, Issue 33

[Paul via CnC-List]

Thanks for posting the video.  I wish everyone had something like that.  I
guess I don't get out much and seeing the other sister ships, layout,
personalized features, improvements, etc are very interesting and thought
provoking.  

Paul Hood
C '81

--
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2019 12:20:23 -0400
From: Edd Schillay 
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Subject: Stus-List Interior and Exterior "Tours" of the Starship
Enterprise
Message-ID: <4bb739b6-cc56-4d86-b4c6-94694f88f...@schillay.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Listers,

As many of you know, I?m having a fellow C Lister captain and his crew
deliver the Enterprise to her new home in Florida in a few weeks. I thought
it may be useful for them to see an interior and exterior tour of the boat
so they can acquaint themselves with everything before stepping on board. 

Here are the videos:
Interior: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEl5qrJDMD0

Exterior: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nd0RfWZM7OM=
 

I apologize for the sound quality, shakiness, and length, but if you do
watch them, I?d appreciate any comments or suggestions on improvements,
including better places to store items.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 



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Stus-List C 37/40

[Paul via CnC-List]

Can someone tell me the major differences in the 37/40 and the "R" version,
and are there other versions of the same boat. 

By the way, apparently Beau Geste is in Toronto getting fixed by the owner
himself.

Thanks,
Paul Hood



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Stus-List C 29 MK I stuck halyard

[Paul via CnC-List]

Hello listers,
One of my 2 wire-rope jib halyards got “stuck” doing a pre-start sail change 
before a race last week. Wind was 18 knots and gusting so the sail was flogging 
around a bit. Water was pretty flat due to offshore breeze so not a lot of 
pitch/roll action of the boat. 
Most of the wire is exposed (shackle is about 4 feet off the deck). I initially 
thought that the wire might have jumped the sheave but a trip to the masthead 
revealed nothing - sheave turns smoothly and cable is not fouled at the mast 
head fitting. 
Am unable to budge the halyard up or down, but there is a tiny amount of play 
when changing direction of pull (maybe an inch or so). 
A cable conduit was installed 2 years ago but there have not been any issues to 
date relative to the running of internal halyards.  

Currently using the spin halyard as an alternative (the other jib halyard runs 
through a restrainer for the furler swivel and the luff on the #1 is too long 
to fit the furling  gear.

I’m wondering if the catch is happening near the top where the wire-to-rope 
transition is.  Perhaps at the upper shroud toggles?

Has anyone encountered this before and resolved without pulling the mast?

Add put a line on the shackle and run it through a snatch block at the stem 
head fitting and back to a halyard winch and give it slightly stronger pull 
than just arm strength?

Thanks

Paul D. Saxton
C 29 MK I
Boomerang

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Stus-List Holding Tank and Archives

[Paul via CnC-List]

Hey all, I am looking for info on holding tanks.  I need to replace mine as
I suspect its very old and is now cracking (fortunately on the top side for
now).  The crazing lines in the hard plastic are turning to cracks.I'm
looking for suppliers - maybe even in Canada.  The tank is a triangular
shaped under the V-berth.  I know we've discussed them before and I'd love
to look back at the old archive threads but there are over 160 month to
individually walk through.  Side questions - Is there an easier way to
search all of that, maybe a single search button I'm missing? Knowing that
would likely lower the traffic around here.

Paul Hood
'81 C 34 - Georgian Bay


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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Paul via CnC-List]

Hey John,

 

Hope all is well.  I tried loading several times the survey you had posted
on the C List for the C/40 for sale last month.  Can you please send
it me.  Thanks in advance.

 

Thanks,

Paul Hood

416.799.5549 c

 

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Stus-List 29 Mk1 Rudder Repair

[Paul via CnC-List]

Hi all,
Have dropped my rudder for crack repair on top and leading edge due to water 
ingress, and bushing replacement. 
I have construction drawings that show the inner mild steel plate and gussets 
connecting to the stock. 
Am wondering what weight of pourable foam to use. Based on what I have been 
reading it can range from 8-16 lbs. 
Does anyone have experience doing this before and any recommendations on foam 
brand or weight?

Thanks 

Paul D. Saxton
C 29 Mk 1 #658
Boomerang

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Stus-List Recall interior your LED light conversion

[Paul via CnC-List]

Ok, I spent way too much time looking on the archives for a LED conversion
someone posted last year.  Hard to find and didn't find it.  The person
bought an LED light fixture off the shelf and added red LED diodes with
switch to make it a red/white light.  I made one and put over the head and
really like it.  Was going to do some more but can't find the instructions
for the light including the link to the LED resistor type, etc.  Could that
person forward me the link pleaseassuming you are still around. 

Thanks,
Paul Hood
C REFUGE, Georgian Bay



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Stus-List Chain plate hull reinforcement

[Paul via CnC-List]

Hello all,
There are reinforcing “pads” that are glassed in at the base of the small 
bulkheads supporting the chain plates on my C 29 Mk1.  Under the roving there 
is balsa (mostly rotted) bonded to the inside surface of the hull.
Is it best to replace with identical new balsa core matting or does anyone have 
recommendations on some other method of stiffening the hull in this location. 
Thanks

Paul D. Saxton
29 Mk 1
Boomerang

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Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 indicator lights and buzzer

[Paul via CnC-List]

Does anyone have experience with electrical system on this model of Yanmar? The 
oil pressure, water temp lights and buzzer have not functioned since I 
purchased Boomerang in 2016.  Only the charge lamp lights up when the key is 
turned to ON position.  I’ve pulled the panel to check the bulbs and wiring. 
There’s a rubber sleeve on each lamp that is not easy to remove to gain access 
to the bulb and socket. Any suggestions before I start pulling or cutting to 
remove them?

There’s also a light switch ( broken) but it’s not clear in the service manual 
diagrams what it’s for. The wires go into the cable bundle but don’t appear to 
exit anywhere. Mapping the entire electrical system from multiple PO’s has been 
fun.

Thanks

Paul D Saxton
C 29 MkI
Boomerang



Paul D. Saxton

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Stus-List Drive Handle

[Paul via CnC-List]

OK, so a lesson learned.  Don't assume a temporary fix is good forever.  A
few years back when I picked up the boat, the portside lever for the F/R
shifting was missing.  I figured I'd eventually find it in the boat but
never did.  In the meantime, I cut the head off a bolt, slid it in the
shifter and of course needing more leverage slid the manual bilge pump
handle overtop to extend for the needed leverage.  It actually fit well on
all accounts.  This past weekend, coming into the marina with some friends,
I was on deck halfway forward when my friend was helming into the marina and
as he was pulling up to pull out of gear, the darn bolt came out.  I guess
he pulled slightly out while pulling up.  None the less, I told him to put
it back in and sure enough, he pushed it back and slide the bolt into the
bilge pump handle...far enough that it wouldn't work. Being snug, it
wouldn't come back out.  Now in gear, going slightly too fast and running
through the marina, I started running...also thinking I should get that
fixed.  I got it sorted out but figured I better get the proper handle.
Anyone know what it looks like or where I can get one.  The pedestal side of
the assembly has some sort of a spring which appears to pressure the proper
male end fitting once slide in.  It will likely be shorter too than what I'm
using which will mean looking at the gear box as it is very stiff to get
in/out gear (cable runs smooth) but that's another issue altogether.

Paul Hood
1981 C Georgian Bay


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Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

[Paul via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for your input. The Aqua Signal connector looks like a great 
idea as we take down the mast every year for haul out. 

Paul Saxton
Boomerang
C 29 Mk 1
Toronto, ON

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 18, 2018, at 1:27 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
> 
> We use one of these on the wind cable to facilitate the removal of the mast 
> instead of the white box.
> 
> https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=680929 
> 
> Paul
>  
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G 
> Street via CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2018 12:43:54 PM
> To: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
> Cc: Frederick G Street
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?
>  
> Paul — Ken is absolutely correct (as usual…) about the white wind vane cable 
> connection box.  As far as other installation tips, you can daisy-chain the 
> instruments per the manual to share data across them.  You will need to 
> provide a power connection on the SeaTalkNG bus to power them; and you will 
> need to properly terminate the bus in order for it to work reliably.  If 
> you’re tying in with an autopilot or MFD, that will make the SeaTalkNG bus 
> more complicated.
> 
> Contact me if you need more info.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Feb 18, 2018, at 8:11 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>> 
>> The small white junction box is if you need to cut the wire at the base of 
>> the mast to allow the mast to be removed from the boat without pulling the 
>> wind Sensor cable all the way back to the instrument.  You don't need to 
>> install the white box right away, you could leave a couple of loops in the 
>> cable near the mast base and run the wire to the wind instrument.  You could 
>> cut the cable and install the junction box later if you need to pull the 
>> mast.  When you do, you just bare the wires and insert into the little 
>> terminals and tighten the screws.
>> 
>> There should be small spade connectors included in the kit to crimp onto the 
>> cable at the back of the instrument.
>> 
>> Ken H.
> 
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

[Paul via CnC-List]

Hi Fred,
Right now am just installing the wind, speed and depth.
The wind vane package has a small white connections box with a connector bar 
assuming this is for the mast cable to instrument connections. Are there 
special connectors to crimp onto each lead in the cable or do you just strip 
and insert then tighten down the screw?  You can see a small flat plate that 
each screw pushes down as part on the connection mechanism. There isn't any 
documentation regarding wind vane cabling in the i60 or wind vane boxes other 
than spade connections to the back of the i60. 

Thanks 

Paul Saxton
Boomerang
C 29 Mk 1
Toronto, ON

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 17, 2018, at 10:56 AM, Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net> wrote:
> 
> Paul - the installation is fairly straightforward, and the instructions in 
> the manuals are pretty good; what questions in particular do you have?  As 
> Mike mentioned, you may need to get some SeaTalkNG network components, 
> depending on how you need to network things.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Feb 16, 2018, at 7:06 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Paul
>> 
>> When we installed the i50/i60 in 2014 we had to buy some networking 
>> components to connect them properly for TWS etc...  These networking pieces 
>> did not come in the system pack with our wind/speed/depth instruments.
>> 
>> Likely Fred can explain what is needed and why.  I am still surprised that 
>> everything needed was not included in the pack
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 8:30 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Paul
>> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?
>> 
>> Hello,
>> Does anyone have tips or suggestions on installation of an i50/i60 system 
>> pack. I'm replacing a DataMarine Link 5000 system. 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Paul Saxton
>> Boomerang
>> C 29 Mk 1
>> Toronto, ON
> 
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Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

[Paul via CnC-List]

Hello,
Does anyone have tips or suggestions on installation of an i50/i60 system pack. 
I'm replacing a DataMarine Link 5000 system. 
Thanks

Paul Saxton
Boomerang
C 29 Mk 1
Toronto, ON

Sent from my iPhone

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Stus-List Junk Mail

[Paul via CnC-List]

Hey, can anyone tell me why half of my list emails go to junk mail folder
and the rest to my inbox.  Anyone else have this problem?

Thanks,
Paul Hood
C '81
416.799.5549 c




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Stus-List Electrical Panel

[Paul via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Ya new would have been good.   I blew one thought it was odd and googled the
model to get an exact match.  The only thing that came up was 2 used on
ebay.  I figured I better get them even used as I again thought 35-40 year
old breakers wouldn't be available new anymore.  I guess too much thinking
and not enough looking.  I'll pick up a couple new ones to keep on hand for
now.


Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 12:46:21 -0500
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Paul,

Those look like standard A-series breakers with a white toggle.  They do
fail.

Blue Sea, Paneltronics, and lots of others make or market them.

Why did you buy used?  I would have bought new.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




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Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Paul via CnC-List]

My 2 problem breakers were from the 12v DC side of the panel.  The AC is the
left side and the DC is the right 2 sides. I have the main shut off switch
for the panel otherwise, there is not backup breaker for the DC.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
416.799.5549 c

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci [mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com] 
Sent: August 10, 2017 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Electrical panel

Were these on your AC panel?  I have ones provided by Paneltronics on my DC
panel but have to check my AC breaker ratings.  The ratings for some are 32
VDC and others are 80  VDC/250 VAC.  They look similar to your panel in
appearance.  So far, no problems.  Typically circuit breaker is rated for
interrupt amps and voltage.  Grossly exceed the load for the voltage rating
and they may not open.  You system should have a backup fuse or circuit
breaker rated for the maximum short circuit load.

I hope this is too much information and would try replacing the faulty
breakers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Electrical panel

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C - Refuge
Georgian Bay



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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Electrical panel

[Paul via CnC-List]

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C - Refuge
Georgian Bay



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Stus-List C 99

[Paul via CnC-List]

Does anyone have pros or cons that they would like to share about this model?

Thanks
Sent from my iPhone

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Stus-List CC 30 MK II

[Paul via CnC-List]

Folks I am looking for a fresh water boat to buy also interested in talking to 
owners of Semi-Local or Gremellyn

Thanks

Paul

Sent from my iPhone
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