Re: Stus-List Losing Water

[sender via CnC-List]

Loss of coolant can sometimes be attributed to a failing head gasket.  Look
for milky engine oil, or evidence of the relieving through the coolant
reservoir, and inspect the head gasket externally.

If the gasket is failing, allowing coolant into the cylinder, then when the
engine is running, it pressurizes the coolant and exhaust gas bubbles out
via the coolant tank.  only a small amount of coolant will go into the
cylinder when the engine is not running.  Plug the open overflow tube with
tape and see if it gets blown off.

You can get test kits to see if the coolant is contaminated by exhaust gas.

If coolant is leaking into the oil sump, then the oil turns milky.

Hopefully it's the fresh water/coolant pump, as others have mentioned,
which easier to repair.

If it is a leaking head gasket, dealing with it asap may save you a bottom
end rebuild.
Eric

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 11:42 AM David Castor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a similar issue on my Westerbeke in my not-a-C  I have some
> suspicion of the water heater, but I don't notice anything in the water.
> It's a bit of a mystery at this point.  Let me know if you find it.
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 11:30 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> yes
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 11:27 AM David Castor via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Alan,
>>>
>>> Are you referring to the coolant?
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 9:03 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Water in my heat exchanger keeps disappearing, very slowly, even when
 the engine hasn't been running for weeks at a time.  There is no evidence
 of water under the engine. Hot water heater is only a few years old. Could
 the heat exchanger be leaking into the raw water side of the cooling
 system? Anyone else have this problem? What's the best way to search for
 the leak?

 Alan Bergen
 35 Mk III Thirsty
 Rose City YC
 Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Raw water blockage

[sender via CnC-List]

Tom:
Look for an axial gap between the pump impeller and the pump.  The sides of
the impeller need to contact the rear of the pump as well as the cover.
Too much wear or too thick of a cover gasket will drop the pump flow to
near zero.

A vented loop on the intake side can cause no flow, a vented loop between
the block and the mixing elbow won't be the problem.

The water inlet on the mixing elbow can definitely clog up.

Excessive restriction in the exhaust can block flow, especially if there's
black smoke as well.
Eric

On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 7:55 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just a thought.
> Disconnect the belt from the water pump.
> Undo the drain valve from the water muffler.
> Run the pump with a drill and socket as you disconnect hoses.
> Disconnect hoses as suggested by another lister. I would start at the
> mixing elbow.
> Find the fault zone and go from there.
> If you get water out the hose connected to the mixing elbow, then you know
> what to do next.
> If not divide and conquer.
>
> I use this method to fill my heat exchanger with anti freeze and watch the
> drain for antifreeze to come out.
>
>
> From: Tom Buscaglia 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2020 11:06:27 -0800
>> Subject: Stus-List Raw water blockage
>> I have checked the intake, pump, strainer, heat exchanger, mixing elbow.
>> All are clear, elbow is new.  Still, no water out exhaust.
>>
>> I am wondering if the vented loop between the heat exchanger and mixing
>> elbow could be the culprit.  It is even necessary on my boat?  Seems that
>> the elbow is well above the water line and the loop could be bypassed.
>>
>> The  only other possibility is the hoses on the suction side of the
>> system collapsing on the inside...but that still seems unlikely.
>>
>> Thoughts appreciated.
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>> C 305.409.3660
>>
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Re: Stus-List Without load, engine runs to full rpm, but... (Yanmar 3JH2E)

[sender via CnC-List]

Bruce:
Since it seems to be a deteriorating condition I dodn't think it's the
prop.  Is it the factory prop?  An overpropped engine will produce more
black smoke at full.  As does a clogging mixing elbow or other exhaust
restriction.  Low compression will make it harder to start, and very low
compression will make white smoke.

Fuel supply sounds like the likely culprit.  Sounds like your on the
filtration side of things.  You could take the injectors out, take them to
a diesel engine shop and get them pop tested.  This is a expected
maintenance item.  The low pressure fuel pump is a known Yanmar issue, but
I'm not sure how you'd test it without buying a gauge and various fittings.

Eric

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 11:53 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> We have a 1994 C/40+ with a Yanmar 3JH2E engine.   Without load, it
> will rev to the 3600 - 3800 range.  I have checked the tachometer using a
> handheld electronic unit, and it is generally accurate (I think within
> about 50 rpm).
>
> The transmission is a Kanzaki KBW10 with a gear ratio of 2.14.  Historically,
> I have never been able to get the engine above 3200 rpms, and I strongly
> suspect the 3 blade fixed prop has too much pitch.  Thus my recent
> questions about switching to a folding/feathering prop.  According to the
> survey, the prop is a fixed, 3 blade 16 x 10 prop.
>
> A few months ago, I noticed upon running the engine at about 3000 rpm
> thinking that running it about 85% of max would be best, it started running
> rough when in gear and at low speeds.  I added injector cleaner, replaced
> the filters, and even went so far as to visually inspect the tank for
> water, dirt, etc.  That visual inspection showed a reasonably clean tank
> (no evidence of water, a few black spots on the bottom, but they were very
> well attached to tank, no loose particulate matter).  At that time, I ran
> quite a bit of fuel through the racor using a small 12 volt pump, using it
> as a vacuum to suck up any fine dirt or water out of the  tank.  I found no
> evidence of such in the racor bowl.
>
> Recently, the engine has become reluctant to go any faster than 2800
> rpms.  The bottom is dove regularly, and though there are some minor nicks
> in the prop according to the diver, they are nothing to worry about.  The
> engine still revs to full speed in neutral, does not smoke either white or
> black regardless of the throttle position, and starts easily.  The rough
> running in gear has now gone away, and I credit that to the injector
> cleaner.
>
> So, a few questions for the collective brain trust:
>
> 1).  Do you think our boat is overpropped?  What should the right prop be
> if it were a fixed, 3 blade?
>
> 2).  What would you expect is the reason the engine does not want to
> acheive the 3200 rpm it used to, keeping in mind it is not smoking,
> missing, or dying?
>
> Looking forward to your thoughts,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C/40+
> "Astralis"
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Re: Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output...

[sender via CnC-List]

Dave:
Since you're getting low voltage between the batt terminal and the
alternator casing, it does sound irrefutable, it's kicking the bucket.

You can remove your alternator and take it to an auto-electric shop.  New
electronic module and bearings and you have a good as new rebuilt
alternator.  They're not as common as they used to be, but they specialize
in repairs and re-building starters and alternators.  If you know anyone
with the classic car bug, they would likely be able point you in the right
direction.  There are cheaper options from auto parts stores, but I'd
strongly recommend rebuilding it or replacing it with another Hitachi
alternator.

Eric

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 1:41 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I have a yanmar 2GMf20 with what I believe is the stock 55 amp
> alternator.   I noticed that my ACR was not combining batteries, which led
> me to research a bit then measure the voltages on each bank, and then at
> the alternator “Batt” terminal.
>
> Irrespective or RPM or battery state, the voltage at the BATT terminal
> does not exceed 12.63 in operation.   (he ACR therefore doesn’t “see” a
> charging state)  The belt is new and not slipping.
>
> This suggests and alternator or regulator problem.   Does this make
> sense?  Is there anything else I should check?
>
> If I end up replacing the regulator, are there better options for this
> alternator than stock?
>
>
>
> Thanks All.
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gm starter problem

[sender via CnC-List]

Tom:
On my last boat, the starter for my 2QM (1 gen older than GM) gave me
trouble, so I removed it and took it to an automotive electric shop.  They
told me the original Yanmar starter was actually made by Hitachi, was very
good quality and much more reliable to rebuild than replace with lower
quality after market.  I had the boat for about 5 years after that and it
worked flawlessly.  I can't remember what it cost, but it was less than
getting a new Hitachi.

Since your original is gone and your aftermarket is scrap after falling
apart, maybe check and see if you can get new Hitachi for less than the
Yanmar branded Hitachi.  Failing that, I'd spring for the Yanmar.  A
reliable starter is a must.

You should also check out your cables for dirty connections or too much
voltage drop, since low voltage AT the starter may have been the root cause
of the premature failure.

Do you have a sense of how big the missing chunk of the starter is??

Eric

On Tue, May 28, 2019 at 9:37 PM tom via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello all,
> So my aftermarket starter died last season and I recently pulled it out
> looking to compare for fit to a replacement. The local marina looking for
> $275 prompted more searching and many seem available for @ $100 or less w 1
> year warranty. I believe Yanmar replacement is over $400, so there is the
> quality/price issue if anyone can chime in.
> However, I now see as a bigger problem. The starter shows a large piece of
> the shield for the pinion gear and shaft missing. This part of the shield
> section supports the shaft end and that is completely missing...so no
> support of the pinion gear shaft. Although I hadn't looked closely at it
> when I removed it, I would have noticed loose pieces.  So if this has
> broken off inside the bell housing, pieces may still be there. I am
> thinking that I must remove the trans for access to clear any remnants. Any
> other ideas? Also, any thoughts about why this happened?
> Thanks much,
> Tom Oryniak
> Carry On
> 33-1 Raritan Bay
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_-3054529560949150400_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar mixing elbow- 2GM20F

[sender via CnC-List]

I installed one this spring and was very happy with the quality of the
casting.

It's an exact copy of the original Yanmar, including the 1 1/4" BSP thread
on the outlet.

Grocco makes a 1 1/4 NPT to 1 1/2" ID bronze hose barb that seems like the
the perfect adaptor.  Unfortunately 1 1/4" BSP is 11 threads per inch and
NPT is 11.5 , so when you thread the barb into the elbow it turns in about
3 turns and jams.  BSP is straight, and NPT are tapered as well.  If you
can find a barb with 1 1/4 BSP threads, you would be able to snug it down
properly.

I discovered this in the yard and didn't have the time to hunt one down, so
the Grocco one is in there now, but I will replace it.

I was going to contact HDI Marine and see if they have one.

Eric

On Thu, May 16, 2019 at 4:29 PM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I bought one after comparing with OEM parts prices. I received my order
> last week and the quality seems good. It's the replacement kit for a
> 2GM20F. I ordered from their website.
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33-2
> New-Richmond, Qc
>
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
>
> Le 16 mai 2019 à 18:49, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> a écrit :
>
> I have one.  It seems to be well built and comparable.  I can't attest to
> it's durability or longevity.
>
> Everything in the picture below was replaced and fit completely like for
> like.
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1aC6-4V8P3BufZhZsusYFmMlmHknk-Ftv
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 16, 2019, 4:09 PM Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I want to replace the mixing elbow assembly on our exhaust system. This
>> stainless steel item from HDI Marine looks like it will do the job at a
>> good price:
>>
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Kit-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Kit-Replaces-Yanmar-GM-124070-13520/332179494684?hash=item4d5770d71c
>>
>> Any experience with HDI Marine (Vancouver, WA), and/or this item in
>> particular? Installation advice?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> A.
>>
>> Adrian Humphreys
>> Telamon Technologies, Inc.
>> POB 396, Rockport, ME 04856
>> 207-763-4691, mobile: 207-542-2312
>> adri...@telamontech.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List [C 38 Mk 3] Cracks on the keel

[sender via CnC-List]

Oliver:
For me, the concern would be un-repaired grounding damage from hitting a
rock.  A surveyor can identify this.

One thing you can do while viewing the boat in the water is take up the
removable floor boards and inspect for small cracks radiating from the
structural fiberglass around and above the keel.  Pay extra attention near
the front and the rear of the keel.  When a boat hits a rock head on, the
keel gets torqued so the front gets pulled down and the rear tries to punch
up through the hull.  if the impact is hard enough, there will often be
fine cracks in the fiberglass in these areas.  Grounding damage can be
serious, and can be hard to spot, so it does underscore the need for a
competent survey.

Good luck with it,
Eric

On Thu, May 9, 2019 at 8:02 PM Olivier Chatot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Josh,
>
> Thank you. I appreciate your input.
>
> I've had a similar experience with surveyors. In France, they explicitly
> say they don't disassemble anything.
>
> In addition, they always write a clause in the survey that exonerates them
> from harm caused by a hidden defect ("vice caché" in French). This makes
> some sense, since it should be the insurance company taking responsibility
> of that.
>
> For keel bolts, what they usually do here is record the state of the bolts
> with photos, comment on their appearance, and perhaps recommend a
> replacement.
>
> Thank you,
> Olivier
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2019, 22:48 Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> All of the surveyors I've had all say they don't do keel bolts, engine,
>> or standing rigging.  TBH its pretty disappointing.
>>
>> Torque keel bolts
>> https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc
>>
>> G-Flex keel repair
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>> I second all of the previous advice regarding the "smile".
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:27 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Buying a boat without using a professionally certified surveyor is a
>>> classic mistake.  We require buyers who insist on proceeding without a
>>> survey a document showing that we strongly advise against it and they hold
>>> us harmless.
>>>
>>> Neil Andersen
>>> 1982 C 32, FoxFire
>>> Yacht Broker
>>>
>>> Neil Andersen
>>> 20691 Jamieson Rd
>>> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>>>
>>> --
>>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Olivier
>>> Chatot via CnC-List 
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 9, 2019 8:35 PM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Olivier Chatot
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [C 38 Mk 3] Cracks on the keel
>>>
>>> Thank you, Dennis, for the thorough explanation.
>>>
>>> I had come across the "C smile" in the list. My first instinct was
>>> that it's related. When I see the close-up photos of your 35-1, I can
>>> recognize it's the same kind of crack (same general width and depth).
>>>
>>> However, the cracks have different shapes. The cracks of your 35-1 are
>>> only present at the front of the keel, and they are at an angle, actually
>>> resembling a smile. The cracks on the 38-3 I visited are perfectly
>>> horizontal and extend all along the keel. Does your 35-1 have a deep bilge,
>>> like the 38-3 I visited? If it doesn't, that would explain the difference.
>>>
>>> As for the washers, they are present under the bolt nuts. Visually, they
>>> do not seem degraded to me. But I'm not confident that a problem is always
>>> visually detectable. One of the items in the album I linked originally is a
>>> video. The camera gets quite close to the bolts. Here's the link again:
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/6RCU4JpoorAXvxe99
>>>
>>> Thank you,
>>> Olivier
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 9, 2019, 20:02 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Probably a simple case of the "C smile".  This has been discussed ad
 nauseum on this list.  Many of us on this list have experienced it and
 repaired it.

 In its most frequent occurrence, properly torquing the keel bolts and
 epoxying a couple layers of glass tape over it will fix it.  Here's some
 pics of the smile on my 35-1:

 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile/index.htm

 That smile was fixed by torquing the keel bolts, digging out some
 crumbly stuff at the hull/keel interface, filling the dug out areas with
 epoxy glass, layering 4 inch biaxial tape over the hull/keel joint, fairing
 and painting.  20 years and 14,000 nautical miles of sailing in all
 conditions later, it has not recurred.

 Many of us on the list have similar experience with the smile.

 Very infrequently, more action is required.  This involves dropping the
 keel and resealing the joint.  There may be a void or two or a structural
 weakness around one or more of the keel bolts.  Again, this has only been
 observed infrequently.  There are folks on this list that 

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gm fuel pump seepage

[sender via CnC-List]

Dave:
The copper washers are intended to be a single use seal, so your supposed
to replace them every time you loosen a banjo bolt so maybe not the best
places to bleed.  I don't know if the Mcmaster-Carr ones are intended to be
multi use.  The fuel will harden the o-ring material if it's made from the
normal Buna-N material.

All your fittings should be bone dry with no seepage.  If fuel can seep out
when the engine is running, it becomes possible that air will seep back in
when the engine sits unused for a long time.

Yanmar has sold millions of those filter housings due to people stripping
them out.  The nylon washer under the bleed screw makes it so it will seal
effectively with a 1/4 turn past finger tight.  It's not vey tight, but it
does stay dry.

I use the Yanmar filter as a redundant filter.  The common practice is to
run 25 micron element in the racor (or similar) prefilter and then have the
yanmar filter the finest particles out.  Instead of that, I run a larger
500 Racor with the finest 2 micron (I think) element in it.  The Yanmar
element I no longer change since the only contamination it will ever see is
the tiny bit of dirt that may accidentally get introduced when I'm changing
the Racor.

The secondary benefit of this arrangement is I never need to bleed the
system. (...Well OK, I do crack the bleed screw on the Yanmar it to check
it, but that's me being overboard curious, never any air in there.)  You
turn off the fuel at the tank (keep it from flowing back when you take the
lid off the racor), pull out the old filter element, drop in the new one,
change the lid seal, pour a bit of diesel on top to fill the filter to the
brim, put the top on, turn the fuel back on and I'm done.

I think it's a good idea to do a P-M replacement of the fuel pump.  Also
the standard exhaust mixing elbow on that engine is problematic and should
be replaced on P-M as well.

Eric

On Thu, May 9, 2019 at 6:38 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you don't know the age of the pump it would be prudent to replace it.
> It is an engine vulnerability in that when the diaphragm fails it will leak
> fuel into the crankcase.
>
> I replaced all my copper washers with seal washers or dowdy washers
> available on Amazon or McMaster Carr.
>
> https://youtu.be/F7KD1_EZmU4
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2019, 11:09 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> From both pumps oddly enough
>>
>> Lift pump seeps, appears to be gasket and or crush washers on banjo
>> fitting.  I’m wondering whether in addition to replacing the gaskets I
>> should also replace the (still operating, likely original) pump for
>> reliability’s sake.  Thoughts?
>>
>> High pressure pump has very minor seepage as well.Can’t see what’s
>> causing it.  Any likely scenarios?
>>
>> Many thanks!
>>
>> Dave 33-2
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
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>>
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Re: Stus-List Thru Hull leaking from handle / cylinder

[sender via CnC-List]

I agree 100% with Jim.  It's an old school design but still completely
serviceable.  Gas utilities still install tapered plug valves today for the
shutoff on your gas service.

Eric

On Mon, May 6, 2019 at 9:41 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That looks pretty much like mine. The bad ones I refaced (or defaced) with
> valve grinding compound and put a heavy coating of Lanocote on the whole
> thing before reassembling. They are a mite difficult to turn in winter but
> they don't leak. I would advise doing this out of the water. In the
> meantime, you could unscrew the square nuts on the side of the unit, screw
> in a zerc fitting, and pump some heavy grease into it while in the water.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Mon, 6 May 2019 at 10:19, John Christopher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I don’t think you can see the full seacock but this was the leak.
>>
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/T5NHhWbUy1ynxMEq7
>>
>>
>> /John
>>
>> On May 5, 2019, at 9:19 PM, sender  wrote:
>>
>> can you post a link to a picture?  My 1981 gas an obsolete style Groco
>> cylinrical looking seacock.  The rubber compound in them is NOT compatible
>> with conventional greases.
>> Eric
>>
>> On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 4:19 PM G Collins via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi John
>>>
>>> You could try tightening it, you will need two wrenches, one of them
>>> thin enough to get to the thinner nut.  I bought a cheap wrench and
>>> attacked it with an angle grinder.
>>>
>>> Alternatively, if the seacock cone isn't loose, best option while in the
>>> water is to put grease nipples on the sides if they aren't there already
>>> (you mention they are?), get a grease gun at Harbor Freight / Princess Auto
>>> (depending on USA / Canada location), and crank some grease into it.   Make
>>> sure the handle is in the "open" position.
>>>
>>> Good reference at
>>> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>>>
>>> First season I had SP in the water her seacocks leaked, I greased them
>>> and was fine for the season.  I pulled a couple of them next time she was
>>> on the hard and used lapping compound to get a good seal on them.
>>>
>>> Graham Collins
>>> Secret Plans
>>> C 35-III #11
>>>
>>> On 2019-05-05 12:08 p.m., John Christopher via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> Sorry all, referring to seacock is dripping around the handle.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> /John
>>>
>>> On May 5, 2019, at 10:28 AM, John Christopher 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> Just launched my C 1983 Landfall 38.
>>>
>>> Noticed one thru hull fitting from the cylinder where the handle
>>> attaches. I see what looks like has 2 grease nipples. It is not leaking
>>> from the base (I.e not the thru hull itself).
>>>
>>> Thoughts on fixing? Does it need to come out of the water?
>>>
>>>
>>> /John
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Thru Hull leaking from handle / cylinder

[sender via CnC-List]

can you post a link to a picture?  My 1981 gas an obsolete style Groco
cylinrical looking seacock.  The rubber compound in them is NOT compatible
with conventional greases.
Eric

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 4:19 PM G Collins via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi John
>
> You could try tightening it, you will need two wrenches, one of them thin
> enough to get to the thinner nut.  I bought a cheap wrench and attacked it
> with an angle grinder.
>
> Alternatively, if the seacock cone isn't loose, best option while in the
> water is to put grease nipples on the sides if they aren't there already
> (you mention they are?), get a grease gun at Harbor Freight / Princess Auto
> (depending on USA / Canada location), and crank some grease into it.   Make
> sure the handle is in the "open" position.
>
> Good reference at https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>
> First season I had SP in the water her seacocks leaked, I greased them and
> was fine for the season.  I pulled a couple of them next time she was on
> the hard and used lapping compound to get a good seal on them.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2019-05-05 12:08 p.m., John Christopher via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Sorry all, referring to seacock is dripping around the handle.
>
>
>
> /John
>
> On May 5, 2019, at 10:28 AM, John Christopher  wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Just launched my C 1983 Landfall 38.
>
> Noticed one thru hull fitting from the cylinder where the handle attaches.
> I see what looks like has 2 grease nipples. It is not leaking from the base
> (I.e not the thru hull itself).
>
> Thoughts on fixing? Does it need to come out of the water?
>
>
> /John
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Adding new battery to existing battery bank

[sender via CnC-List]

We think of a battery as being a pure reservoir of power.  In actual fact,
a battery is a source of power that has an internal resistance that changes
with the state of charge and age/condition of the battery.  For this reason
if you have a bank of batteries wired in parallel (as is done in a house
bank) all the batteries should be the exact same type and age, otherwise
they will charge and discharge unevenly which will be detrimental to the
longevity of the battery with the lowest resistance.

Standard lead acid batteries went from being the environmental villain of
the automotive repair industry to the poster child for parts recycling.
Something like 99.5% recyclable content in a standard flooded battery.  So
just trade them in for new, identical batteries.

On Mon, Apr 22, 2019 at 9:37 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Without getting into a lot of details, I have the ability to add a 3rd
> battery to our existing house bank.  Those batteries are coming up on 2
> years old.  Can I add a new 3rd battery of the same type (lead acid), and
> of about the same capacity to the bank, even though the other batteries are
> older?
>
> I am being told by another sailor who I generally trust on electrical
> issues that this is less than ideal, in that the older batteries will
> shorten the life of the new battery.
>
> Might you have a link to something you consider to be authoritative out on
> the web?  I'm finding lots about not mixing different types of batteries
> (which I get) but not much about the age of the batteries.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Split propeller coupling

[sender via CnC-List]

Question:
Why would you want a shaft coupling that is easier to take apart, but also
inherently less strong than a solid coupler?

I recently had to take off a stuck coupler to install a drip-less stuffing
box. It was easy to make a puller to apply tons of force to separate it.  I
now know I when it gets old I'll never have to worry about it separating
when I throw it in reverse!

Also note this job should involve a torque wrench.  The Buck Algonquin wed
site  says the jack bolts are 7/16" Grade 5 which means they should be
torqued to 35 ft/lbs.  That's pretty darn snug for those little, square
bolt heads.  The 4 bolts between the engine and coupling I replaced with
grade 8 and torqued them accordingly.



On Sat, Apr 20, 2019 at 10:11 PM Paul Baker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have something similar (Yanmar), it's mostly a rusted lump but still
> looks relatively easy to remove by cutting a few bolts if necessary.
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Steve
> Thomas via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* April 20, 2019 12:37 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Steve Thomas
> *Subject:* Stus-List Split propeller coupling
>
> Anyone have any experience using a split propeller coupling?
> Looks like a neat solution to the jamming problems associated with the
> traditional couplings.
> Might also be less likely to work loose when recently assembled.
>
> This is what I am looking at:
>
>
> https://www.generalpropeller.com/inboard-shafts-and-couplings/RD-Split-Couplings/202-254
>
>
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> C
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 35-2 concerns

[sender via CnC-List]

Shawn:
2 years ago, I also bought a 35MkII and subsequently let it go after an
unfavorable survey.   It was a very difficult decision to make.  I really
liked the design and solid build of the 35.  In the sea trial it sailed
beautifully, exactly the way I think a boat should sail.  The interior has
a good layout.

Sounds like you've got a fair idea of some of the issues, and also the itch
to get out on the water.

In the end for me, I knew it would completely tap out my budget, and I
would have a hard time finding the necessary time to commit to buying a
project boat.  If I had deeper pockets and was semi retired or retired and
able to commit the money and enormous amount of time, I would have kept
it.  People who've successfully restored boats (houses,cars etc)  are
rewarded by a sense of accomplishment that's hard to compare.  So my advice
would be to take those factors into consideration.

By the time we let the 35 mkII go the few other possible boats were gone
and that was certainly a bummer.  We looked at that same boat the second
the put it up for sale.  We wound up having to wait until the next spring
before a very clean, well maintained C 32 came up that we grabbed.  I'm
very happy with that decision.  Ironically there's another same year and
color 32 currently on Craigslist.

If you do look at it, the Yanmar 2GM engine should have the exhaust mixing
elbow removed and the head inspected for internal deterioration from a
cracked elbow leaking salt water back towards the head.  It's an issue
known for killing that otherwise great engine.

Eric

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 7:31 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Oh yeah, a few more things. I sounded the decks, and although there is
> some creaking when walking between the mast and hatch area, sounding gives
> a consistent sound. The only place that was different was around the
> chainplates, but it was almost completely just inboard and outboard of
> them, which is directly above the chainplate bulkhead, so I think that may
> be the sound difference I heard, as they were all the same. No leaks
> showing when I was on the boat all day in the rain.
>
> The port bulked shows moisture around the top edge (not bottom edge) like
> it leaked at one point but not sure where from, and the bulkheads on both
> sides of the head on port side are a bit loose at the cabin top. Tabbing is
> good, and was re-done by previous owner. Is it normal for bulkheads to be
> loose at the top? I can imagine they might move around a lot in rough
> weather like this, which doesn't seem good.
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 7:23 PM Shawn Wright 
> wrote:
>
>> We're getting down to the final days before closing on the C 35-2, and
>> I'm getting a bit discouraged by the number of things needing work, and the
>> way in which the previous owner did a lot of things:
>>
>> -the electrical is a mess, with the original fuse panel having quite a
>> few additional switches, and while the original wire runs have been
>> replaced, seeing the quality of work make me want to just rip it all out
>> and start again. Most of it works, and the junctions are
>> soldered/heatshrunk, but it appears that left over wire was used in many
>> places.
>>
>> -the engine is *very* complex, and scary to try to comprehend, with hoses
>> criss-crossing between the engine and both cockput locker areas for a
>> watermaker, two heat exchangers, hot water tank, etc. Lots of valves and
>> very little consistency in hose or valve type/diameter, and mix of plastic,
>> steel and bronze fittings.
>>
>> -the engine itself is a VW 1.6 diesel, which I am intimately familiar
>> with, having worked on many, but it's all the custom marine add-ons that
>> worry me. It runs well, but I know that this probably the primary reason
>> the boat has not sold for a year. Imagine a typical marine engine, then
>> multiply the hoses and valves by 4-5x.
>>
>> -windows are original and completely opaque, although they amazingly
>> don't seem to leak
>>
>> -it has space for 3 pairs of 6V golf cart batteries, but only 4
>> installed. I found the cables for the other 2 batteries lying loose, not
>> taped, and was shocked (pun intended) to find they were live! I taped them
>> off quickly. Stuff like this on a boat just makes me wonder what else I
>> will find, although I've scoured the boat pretty heavily, so have probably
>> found the worst of it.
>>
>> On the positive side, we took it out in the harbour today in winds of
>> 20kn with gusts to 35 and the engine easily powered her to 5kn into the
>> wind and 6.5kn downwind. Getting her out and back into the dock was a
>> challenge though. I would have preferred to stay out and try sailing to see
>> how she handled, but the owner was not keen on it.
>>
>> The problem is this: I have spent a year trying to find a boat, and now
>> just want to go sailing. There is a nice looking C 30 for about the same
>> price right next to it, and another across town that I looked at 

Re: Stus-List Have you inspected your exhaust mixing elbow lately?

[sender via CnC-List]

Josh:
Very interesting to see your elbow corroded through on the sides.  Did the
raw water channel hold together ok?  And, are you in salt water?   It seems
sensible to make the side castings thinner to fail first.

I know someone who had the welded steel one on a 2GM rust through and start
spraying raw water back towards the head, which ultimately ruined it.

Eric

On Sun, Feb 17, 2019 at 1:24 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yeah this was mine earlier this year.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1aC6-4V8P3BufZhZsusYFmMlmHknk-Ftv
>
> The rust blisters were still holding back a majority of the exhaust and
> water.  The entirety of the hole seen in the pictures occurred while I was
> wrangling the hose off.  I can't recall who manufactured my replacement but
> it is SS, not polished, and available on ebay.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 17, 2019, 1:40 AM sender via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I removed for inspection the exhaust mixing elbow on my Yanmar 3YM20.  I
>> was glad I did. It was heavily corroded on the inside and the iron was
>> extensively deteriorated.  The engine is 9 years old and runs in cold, salt
>> water.
>>
>> We have a band saw at my work, when the blade is needs replacement, I
>> will run it through to show how bad it is and post a pic.
>>
>> If a mixing elbow rots right through it can spill raw water back into the
>> exhaust manifold and wreck the engine.
>>
>> I decided to try a 316 stainless aftermarket elbow mad by HDI marine,
>> available on their website.  I was a little hesitant, I usually spend the
>> extra and go OEM, plus I've had a few disappointments with aftermarket
>> parts online.
>>
>> I'm happy with the quality of the part, it's a close to exact match to
>> the original Yanmar one, except the HDI doesn't have the oddly placed frost
>> plug the Yanmar has (the frost plug is at the very top, which means the
>> elbow would have to be nearly full of water when it freezes for it to
>> pop...?).   It's a nice casting, lots of weight and the interior of it
>> looks very good quality.  Too bad the did straight BSP instead of NPT
>> threads on both the water inlet and exhaust outlet.  The Groco "full flow'
>> 1 1/4" pipe to 1 1/2" hose barb fitting isn't available in BSP.
>>
>> I assembled it with a good dose of nickel anti-seize for stainless, and
>> will make it a point of disassembling it annually for inspection.
>>
>> Pictures:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/RnNuMKzVZrFbjNKS7
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Stus-List Have you inspected your exhaust mixing elbow lately?

[sender via CnC-List]

I removed for inspection the exhaust mixing elbow on my Yanmar 3YM20.  I
was glad I did. It was heavily corroded on the inside and the iron was
extensively deteriorated.  The engine is 9 years old and runs in cold, salt
water.

We have a band saw at my work, when the blade is needs replacement, I will
run it through to show how bad it is and post a pic.

If a mixing elbow rots right through it can spill raw water back into the
exhaust manifold and wreck the engine.

I decided to try a 316 stainless aftermarket elbow mad by HDI marine,
available on their website.  I was a little hesitant, I usually spend the
extra and go OEM, plus I've had a few disappointments with aftermarket
parts online.

I'm happy with the quality of the part, it's a close to exact match to the
original Yanmar one, except the HDI doesn't have the oddly placed frost
plug the Yanmar has (the frost plug is at the very top, which means the
elbow would have to be nearly full of water when it freezes for it to
pop...?).   It's a nice casting, lots of weight and the interior of it
looks very good quality.  Too bad the did straight BSP instead of NPT
threads on both the water inlet and exhaust outlet.  The Groco "full flow'
1 1/4" pipe to 1 1/2" hose barb fitting isn't available in BSP.

I assembled it with a good dose of nickel anti-seize for stainless, and
will make it a point of disassembling it annually for inspection.

Pictures:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/RnNuMKzVZrFbjNKS7

Eric
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

[sender via CnC-List]

The original grey, opaque plastic pipe that was commonplace in the late 70s
& early 80s was polybutylene.

My understanding is the issue with this material is in residential use it
split open causing a flood, in situations where pressures AND temperatures
are high (180F).  It was taken off the market and companies were, and still
are reluctant to make compatible fittings out of liability fears.  Having
said that, I've kept the poly-b in my boat as it unlikely to fail since my
my water is only periodically under pressure, its only 40 psi, and it never
gets really hot.  if it was in my house, I'd remove it.

Vinyl tubing tends to shrink, yellow and harden up over time.

I'd do 1/4" or 3/8" pex if I was running new, but not sharkbites for
fittings, there are lots of other compression fitting available at lower
cost.

Just my $0.02
Eric

On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 7:07 AM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I am sure this has been gone over before...so please indulge me.
>
> Replacing, re-designing, water lines in 1981 40-2.  Pex is the obvious
> choice.   Are there less obvious (and have cheaper tools required to
> install) choices?
>
> Has anyone improved on the original design?   I am thinking of adding
> easier accessible manifolds and an additional line for antifreeze and
> blowing out water.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[sender via CnC-List]

Shawn:
Did you see this?
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/boa/d/surrey-psyche-is-for-sale/6792109649.html

Same year & model as mine.
Eric

On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 5:19 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've not been on a 27, but I am assuming they will be too small for our
> needs, as that it what everyone says about the Catalina 27 (which I also
> haven't been aboard). I liked the 26, but it was the first boat I looked
> at, and everything since has been larger. The CS27 seemed pretty cramped,
> but the double settee was also pulled out when I looked at it. The awful
> v-berth/head door contraption on that one turned me off. I think the
> Nicholson 31/35 sliding doors are the best solution I've seen, although
> need to make sure they are locked in rough seas!
>
> I don't know how accurate this is, but it shows the 27MK2 as very tender,
> while the Mk1 is very stiff. Not sure where the others fall.
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm
>
> On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 10:53 AM Paul Baker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The 27 would also fit the bill. Mk1/2 are stiffer than the 3/4, but the
>> 3/4 are better in light air. Mk5 is a whole different thing.
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Ronald B.
>> Frerker via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* January 10, 2019 12:23:29 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>>
>> I agree.  We had/have three 26s on Carlyle and they're very good boats.
>> The MacGregors are really poorly done and extremely lightly built boats.  I
>> had the 21 as my first boat and comparing it to my next boat, a San Juan
>> 24, was comparing apples and oranges.
>> It's like comparing driving a WW II jeep to a Mercedes.
>> It seems to me, that you should really look at the C 30-1.  While not
>> the greatest in light air for racing, it does move and it can really stand
>> up to a blow.  It responds well, doing exactly what you expect it to do.
>> There were a lot sold, so easier to find and the prices quite frankly are
>> way too cheap.
>> I would look for one with a diesel.
>> Of course, I'm a bit prejudiced since I sail one.
>> If/when I step up, it would be the 35-2.  I raced/cruised on one and it
>> was great and a really beautiful boat to look at.
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C 30-1
>> STL
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, January 10, 2019, 12:00:21 PM CST, Pete Shelquist via
>> CnC-List  wrote:
>>
>>
>> I wouldn’t compare the 26 to a MacGregor.
>>
>>
>>
>> It sounds like you need to get out sailing different boats more to help
>> you decide what’s important, or not.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Shawn
>> Wright via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 10, 2019 11:13 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Shawn Wright 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes, I am trying to focus on the boat first, starting with a solid
>> hull/deck/rig and a sound design. So far, I have yet to come across a boat
>> with all of these factors - they are usually deficient in one or more
>> areas, with sails being the most common. The last two boats I looked at
>> were mainly motored, so sails were original and they had no furlers. In
>> fact, nearly all the boats I've seen had original or at least 20+ year old
>> sails. The C 37 had a brand new racing main and about 8 other sails, but
>> the boat was a mess. Around here, winds are very light and fickle in the
>> summer, when most people cruise, so many boats are mainly motored unless
>> they venture beyond the inside passage.
>>
>>
>>
>> It's a shame the C 26 isn't a bit stiffer, as it was the first boat I
>> looked at in July, in really nice conditon, and I could have got it for $8K
>> and been sailing already. But it had a wheel, and was really tight in the
>> cockpit as a result, and the idea of a very tender boat doesn't thrill me
>> after sailing a friend's MacGregor.
>>
>>
>>
>> I don't want luxury (we've camped as a family of 4 in a Westfalia for 20
>> years), but we will need space for 2 adults to be comfortable inside on
>> rainy days, and to also sail/motor in rough conditions in reasonable
>> comfort. Anything 27'+ has what we need usually, so it's just a matter of
>> getting a solid boat with decent engine, sails and no major flaws that I
>> can't fix easily fix. I am prepared to put in the work if the price is
>> right; in fact I would prefer it, as I have lots of time, being retired. I
>> am not afraid of engine work, so a rebuild doesn't scare me, but the price
>> would have to reflect the amount of work needed.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for all the tips!
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 8:49 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> If this is what you want:
>>
>>
>>
>> "I just want a boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in."
>>
>>
>>
>> For 25k, what I would be focusing on is a bare bones boat - forget about

Re: Stus-List Yanmar warning buzzer

[sender via CnC-List]

John:
For electronic items have a look at Digikey.com I've sourced parts from
them found them efficient.

$75.00 for a decent quality panel mount buzzer that's waterproof doesn't
sound unreasonable to me.  A circuit board mountable buzzer element will be
cheap, but then you have a project to make it otherwise suitable.

Eric

On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 11:16 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ours has given up the ghost (gee it’s only 37 years old J).  Is a Hitachi
> WI 1-05 dual purpose for low oil pressure and high temp.  5 pin connector.
> 4 pins are used so not quite sure how the wiring would work if went the
> Yanmar 3GM engine = type B panel.  2 1/16”hole.  Issue is locating one of
> these – with the caveat of a reasonable price.  Did the Google search.
> Found one on flea bay but $75 seems like a lot when can get a single
> purpose piezo buzzer for about $15 and just need to change the wiring.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions for sourcing or alternative strategy?
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Propane hose

[sender via CnC-List]

The size of gas piping is based on an allowable pressure drop.  The
regulator should be adjusted to deliver at 11" of water column (approx
0.4psi).  For propane appliances the allowable drop is 1".  The Canadian
residential gas code I have has 3/8 copper tubing, this would be about 5/16
ID, so you'll have to extrapolate.  10' length allows 49 000 BTUs, 20'
allows 34 000 BTUs and 30' allows 27 000 BTUs.

In other words, 2 separate 1/4" hoses manifolding at the regulator will
work fine.

Eric

On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 2:05 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good answer i agree quarter inch id should provide enough fuel to operate
> both simultaneously unless the outside temp is minus 10 or below
> On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 4:56 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Tom — I had hoses made up when I added my Dickinson fireplace years ago;
>> I’m pretty sure everything was 1/4” ID with 3/8” flare fittings.  I’ve got
>> the usual three-burner range with over in the galley, in addition to the
>> fireplace; no issues using them simultaneously.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>> On Jan 9, 2019, at 2:24 PM, T power via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks josh and Doug for you thoughts. The issue I'm running into, it is
>> extremely hard to find 3/8" id hose in the proper length. I'm in the
>> process of building the propane locker, my plan is to have vapor tight
>> fittings for the hose and wiring for the solenoid, the hoses will be
>> complete from the tank to the appliance.
>>
>> I can basically get any length I want in 1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare
>> fittings, I'm just not sure there will be enough volume for the appliance.
>>
>>  I ordered a hose for the stove, I thought it was 3/8" id but turned out
>> to be 1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare fittings on each end.
>>
>> I guess if the hose does not supply enough volume I can order "custom
>> made" hoses (very pricey) and swap them out. Any holes drilled will be the
>> same diameter due to the size of the fittings, just a bit of a PITA,
>>
>>
>> Tom Power 
>> Invictus
>> C 30 MK1
>> Fredericton, NB
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of
>> svrebeccaleah via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 9, 2019 4:06 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* svrebeccaleah
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propane hose
>>
>> Hi Tom,
>> This from West Marine.
>>
>> Supply Hoses 
>>
>> To carry the gas from the regulator to the stove or heater, use LPG
>> supply hose of the correct length. Note that while these hoses are only
>> carrying 0.5 psi, they have a 350 psi working pressure rating, so they are
>> dramatically stronger than they have to be. Each supply hose should run
>> continuously from inside the propane tank enclosure to the appliance: this
>> is not a case where you can chain a bunch of fittings together because you
>> ended up a little short on hose. Use a Vapor-Tight Straight-Thru fitting
>> where the hose exits your propane locker. Supply hoses connect to the
>> propane appliance using a 3/8" female flare swivel and connect to the
>> solenoid with a 3/8" male NPT adapter.
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> Sv Rebecca Leah
>> LH39
>> Port Orchard YC wa.
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: T power via CnC-List 
>> Date: 1/9/19 10:22 (GMT-08:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: T power 
>> Subject: Stus-List Propane hose
>>
>> Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson
>> Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater.
>>
>> The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater
>> is 21 feet.
>>
>> My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose
>> verses 3/8 id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N
>> 1220-1411.
>>
>> Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Tom Power 
>> Invictus
>> C 30 MK1
>> Fredericton, NB
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

[sender via CnC-List]

Uh oh, tempers can flare when the new F-N bomb comes out

I think Marlon is basically PA6 or PA66 Nylon.  It's become a very common
material in a lot of adverse applications.  Makita, Milwaukee, Festool,
Hilti and other heavy duty tool manufacturers use it extensively.  The
automotive industry now uses it extensively.  I was dismayed a few years
ago when I first saw a plastic intake manifold, but they've held up fine.
I see more of it all the time in industrial equipment I work on. It's tough
stuff.

In my last boat, I had the raw water intake handle break off an old RC
Marine valve, so I replaced it with the newer Forespar version.  It became
very stiff to move to the point I was concerned it too would break.  I
subsequently learned I incorrectly installed it by tightening it too much.
I was, as Billy Joel said: in a NPT state of mind.  I took the valve out,
cleaned off the old goo and teflon tape and the re-installed with 4200 to
just barely snug tight.  After the 4200 set up it was solid.  This same
valve sprang back to it's original shape and worked fine.

My seacocks are likely stuck due to corrosion.  I wonder about hidden
corrosion between the seacock and the through hull fitting.  Whether or not
I'm hooked up to shore power, I seem to chew through zincs.  So for me, the
Marlon seems to be the best choice.  I can appreciate others like the
solidness of a bronze fitting.  To each, his own.

Eric

On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 9:35 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fake news.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Jan 5, 2019, at 6:56 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2019 21:54:56 -0500
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
> Message-ID: <2A8B983B594848238142746DD48CD81C@InternetPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> There you have it.  I guess the cautions I?ve heard and read about lack
> merit.
>
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2019 5:22 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
>
> For what it is worth, my boat came with Marlon all around.  I've had
> absolutely no trouble at all and strongly recommend.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019, 5:15 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  FWIW, I?m not a big fan of marelon where there is a potential for
> breakage.  I would be reluctant to use marelon seacocks for the cockpit
> scuppers on my boat.  I can envision crawling around in that space (like
> working on the quadrant) and inadvertently breaking a seacock by pushing on
> it with my foot for leverage (without knowing what I?m pushing on).
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

[sender via CnC-List]

Thanks to all who responded.

I was hoping there would be an abundance of people in a similar situation,
successfully freeing up the seacocks without too much difficulty.  There
wasn't, so I think I'm going to go the route of replacing with Marelon
seacocks and hopefully be done with it for good.

The secondary discussion about the lines crossing, is interesting, but I've
never noticed any back-up of water through the existing arrangement.  It
seems to me for the crossed arrangement to work, the windward hull fitting
would have to be well above the healed waterline to avoid water ingress,
which means you would't get drainage of any spray when healed.  Am I
missing something here?

Thanks again,
Eric

On Mon, Dec 31, 2018 at 7:18 AM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> But by crossing the hoses, you don’t end up wit a situation where the
> scupper and thru-hull are both below the waterline when healed.
>
> Neil Andersen
> 1982 C 32 FoxFire
> Rock Hall, MD
>
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L.
> Wolford via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, December 31, 2018 10:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Matthew L. Wolford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
>
> Agreed that cockpit drains should always be open and functioning
> correctly.  I had one closed for some repair work on my old Ranger 26 and
> decided it would be safe to race the boat with one functioning cockpit
> drain.  Worked great as long as we were on the right tack.  We were
> nervously bailing on the other tack several miles offshore.  Never again.
>
> I am curious to hear more about the idea of crossing the hoses.  It does
> not make sense to me as the far side thru-hull would be higher when
> heeled.
>
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 30, 2018 10:19 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
>
> I apologize for creating confusion.  For the reasons stated by Andrew
> Burton, DO NOT shut cockpit drains.  Period.  My statement was supposed to
> be that having seacocks open while not in use, or while away from the the
> boat was an invitation for desaster.  A better practice would be to
> relocate the cockpit drains to a location above the waterline which would
> eliminate the need for isolation valves and the subsequent risk incurred by
> the necessity of leaving them open.
>
> I also went on to suggest that in order to keep them above water on all
> angles of heel that you MAY need to cross the drains port-stbd though
> depending on the discharge location this may cause the cockpit drains to be
> lower than the discharge ports and subsequently not drain until the next
> tack.  A more centralized drain is a better solution.  As mentioned by
> others a discharge in the transom is a good solution.  You want it as high
> above waterline as possible but below the cockpit floor.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 30, 2018, 10:03 AM PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Maybe dumb question but I have only been sailing on C  40 for 3 years.
>> (J24 Catalina oday all had open cockpit drains out stern)
>>
>> When sailing do people regularly close cockpit drains  I am on the side
>> mine are always open but I did service mine which required them to be taken
>> apart(frozen open— lots of pb. Blaster and kroil oil and careful
>> persuasion) ). So if I wanted to I could close them  I could
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Peter
>> C 40 aft 1983
>> Portland me
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 30, 2018, at 9:19 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Cockpit drain seacocks most assuredly should not be closed when no one is
>> aboard...unless you plan to swim in your cockpit!
>> Andy
>>
>> Andrew Burton
>> 139 Tuckerman Ave
>> Middletown, RI
>> USA02842
>>
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>>
>> On Dec 30, 2018, at 05:10, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> That was poor engineering to begin with.  Seacocks should be closed when
>> not in use and more importantly when not on board - particularly those
>> below the water line.  There is no time when your cockpit drains will not
>> be in use.  Besides, seacocks that are inaccessible never get closed.  I
>> suggest looking for a place to re-route your drains, to a loca

Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

[sender via CnC-List]

I bought earlier this year a C 32.  One issue the surveyor pointed out is
the seacocks for the cockpit drains are stuck in the open position.  This
boat has spent it's known history in cold salt water on the west coast of
BC.

I'm interested to know if anyone else has had this same type of seacock,
and had success freeing it up.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xp1haN2nPHUneETUA

The starboard side one is only barely accessible through the 12"x 12" panel
in the aft end of the quarter-birth.  If it was reasonably accessible, I'd
just replace it, but to get 2 hands on it I'd probably have to go through
the locker and remove the fuel tank.

The other pic is a fitting on the rudder tube.  I assume this is (well,
was) a grease cup.  Has anyone taken one of these on?

Thanks,
Eric
C 32 Sirocco 2
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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Re: Stus-List Sidney boat yard

[sender via CnC-List]

I have always done all my own work and prefer Wesport Marina

On Thursday, April 5, 2018, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am thinking about taking Alera up to Sidney for her bi annual haul out.
> Nothing major, just the usual zinc and bottom paint, etc.
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Apr 5, 2018, at 12:53 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re:  [EXTERNAL] Re: Marine Batteries (Rod Stright)
>   2. Re:  Marine Batteries (Marek Dziedzic)
>   3. Re:  Marine Batteries (Marek Dziedzic)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2018 16:45:52 -0300
> From: "Rod Stright" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Marine Batteries
> Message-ID: <00d501d3cd16$b4517c10$1cf47430$@eastlink.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thanks Johns Much appreciated
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
> via CnC-List
> Sent: April-05-18 4:38 PM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Marine Batteries
>
>
>
> Rod, that's how the email lists works.
>
>
>
> I use Google Gmail message rules to automatically move all
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com  >  to a different folder.  I also look at emails
> in conversation view.  I can turn off notifications for the
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com  >  folder and when I look at the folder I can
> choose to read based on the subject since the whole conversation is shown
> as in line item.
>
>
>
> If you don't like it make something else and see if you can drum up as
> much support or more than the list.
>
>
>
> The advantage of email is that it is ubiquitous.  No special apps or
> hardware platforms.  And it is pretty lean on bandwidth for anybody with
> slow connections.  I like that the messages get pushed to my phone
> regardless of whether or not I request them.  Even in a no internet service
> area I can review emails that were pushed hours ago.
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 5, 2018, 3:29 PM Rod Stright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com  > > wrote:
>
> Do we always need to copy everyone on the list about everything.  Gets
> pretty ridiculous with the number of emails.  No wonder people unsubscribe
>
>
>
> Rod
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > >
> On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> Sent: April-05-18 3:01 PM
> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com  > '  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > >
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe  gov > >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Marine Batteries
>
>
>
> Sams Club had their private label golf carts for $89 each. Like their
> AGMs, I think they are Dekas.
>
> I will one day switch to golf carts when I figure out how to mount them.
> They will not fit where I have my batteries now. One nice thing about them
> is abuse is not instant death. Mild overcharging can be fixed with water
> and mild undercharging will resolve with equalization. Gels never get
> better once abused.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2018 1:50 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  >
> Cc: Frederick G Street
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries
>
>
>
> By contrast, my Trojan T105 golf cart batteries run around $150.00 each; a
> pair of them has twice the amp-hour capacity at 12 volts as a single Group
> 31.  I?m on my seventh year with them, and they?re still performing well.
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
> On Apr 5, 2018, at 12:37 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Re: Stus-List 3GMD engine blow back

[sender via CnC-List]

I would rebuild this engine if:

   1. you have a sense that the boat has been well maintained, namely the
   engine zinc has been routinely replaced.  Yanmar added a small amount of
   nickel (or was it chromium?) to the cast iron for their marine blocks, this
   and the zincs, were seen as equally effective solution as fresh water
   cooling. The old raw water cooled Volvo’s Universalls and Farrymans didn’t
   do that, so they rusted out and replacement customers created the demand on
   Yanmar for fresh water cooling. The little 1GM10 they’re still selling
   today is the same basic raw water design.
   2. Take off the exhaust mixing elbow and inspect it, and the head.  The
   only major flaw with that engine is welds cracking from heat stress in the
   elbow spraying seawater back into the head.  The mix of hot exhaust and
   seawater is super corrosive and ruins the head.

Keep in mind

-If you have a dripless shaft seal, the engine could be removed and
re-installed for rebuild without haul out.

-You could swap pressure switch for a guage and see if you are still
getting good oil pressure.  If so the main bearings will likely be fine,
which will reduce re-build cost considerably.

-It’s a model still supported by yanmar for almost all parts.

-If your still concerned about internal corrosion, remove the housing on
the front of the block that holds the thermostat and have a look.
Similairly the housing that holds the zinc on the rear of the head can be
removed and the internal condition of the head can be seen.





The problem with re-powering is you’re over capitalizing the boat.  Ok if
you’re fairly sure your’re keeping it for the long haul. What’s the boat
worth?  In 4 or 5 years, there will be little if any difference in the
value of the boat between rebuilt and new-ish engine. I looked carefully
into buying a boat that needed a re-power.  The mechanics only take these
jobs on as a cost plus basis.  They quoted me an average of 40 hours labour
for the job, this varies due to the accessibility around the engines, work
to adapt the mounting etc.   Ancillary costs include haul-out of the boat,
a week in the yard, crane fees to take out old, crane to put the new in 1
or 2 days later, possibly need new shaft, possible new prop, taxes….  It
worked out a Yanmar 3YM30 could reasonably add up to $25K installed.



A rebuild including oversized pistons, rings, a valve grind, new injector
tips, and a new mixing elbow will result in an engine with lots of life,
and cost less than ½ of new.

Eric

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 2:33 PM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
> I continue to try and understand what is wrong with my engine without
> paying more good money.  And I have started looking for a new motor.
>
> First the problem.  The engine recently started to leak a fair amount of
> oil and to start poorly.  We spent a lot of time trying to find exactly
> where the leak was from and I had thought it was the head gasket.  The
> local mechanic, Charles at Gartside, said he really didn't think it would
> be the head gasket as he had never seen an oil leak from one.  We cleaned
> the engine with brake cleaner, got some florescent tracing dye, put it in
> the engine and let it run for an extended period.  Although we some some
> oil leak never saw the florescence with a black light.
>
> Regardless we decided it must be coming from the intake manifold.  Of
> course the leak is where it is almost impossible to get to but where the
> leak occurs there aren't too many options.  The intake manifold can get too
> much oil in it if there is blowback increasing air pressure in the valve
> and rocker arm cover.  So, while the engine was running I pulled off the
> breather hose which runs from the cover to the manifold.  And there was
> pressure and there was oil which blew all over.
>
> Now for the first question.  Everything I read says this is a result of a
> worn engine - rings, cylinder walls, etc. which leaks air into the
> crankcase building up pressure.  Has anyone ever seen a different reason
> for this?  I had a compression test done about 8 months ago and all was
> fine then.  But that was then.  My take is a 37 year old raw water cooled
> engine is not worth that kind of repair, albeit it only has 2,000 hours on
> it.
>
> Second question.  I'm currently looking at a Yanmar and a Beta engine.
> Any comments?  The Beta is cheaper.  Also they sell a 25 HP which seems
> about right for the boat.  Both appear too wide to get in on my C 34.
> Anyone have experience with this?
>
> Thanks
> Don Jonsson
> C 34
> Victoria
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are 

Re: Stus-List feckless meanderings - Dylan

[sender via CnC-List]

Ahhh... so maybe Bob Dylan was a Yacht Broker before got into music??

You say you never compromise
With the mystery tramp, but now you realize
He's not selling any alibis
As you stare into the vacuum of his eyes
And say: Do you want to make a deal?

On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 2:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Boots Of Spanish Leather
> WRITTEN BY: BOB DYLAN
> Oh, I’m sailin’ away my own true love
> I’m sailin’ away in the morning
> Is there something I can send you from across the sea
> From the place that I’ll be landing?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 30, 2017, at 4:33 PM, G Collins via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> The song Mr. Tambourine Man does have the line "take me on a trip upon
> your magic swirlin' ship", and there is a C here with the name Magic
> Swirlin' Ship
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2017-07-30 1:46 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> "I am younger than that now."
>
> Must be a Dylan fan.
> Does he have any songs about sailboats?  Anything we can adapt to old C?
> Finally had a day under 90 F friday and went out sailing.  Winds at 20
> with gusts as high as 28mph; used my 160% genny only and it was a great
> choice, although tacking took a while.  Once through the tack, the wind
> just kept blowing the bow down.  Had to gain speed and nurse it back to
> windward.  Downwind was a blast!
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
> --
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dennis C.  
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 29, 2017 5:57 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws
>
> Too funny. After my post favoring SS rivets, I get to Touché today to see
> 1/4 inch Phillips machine screws on the vang bracket. :)
>
> Well, it was many years ago when I installed it; I am younger than that
> now.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 27, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> One thing to remember about the Garhauer vang is that the attachment to
> both the mast and the boom are custom made for the boat (you send them the
> profile of the mast and boom when you order the vang), and the plates
> attached to the mast and boom wrap significantly around the spars. (On my
> 25 about half of the boom is cradled in the attached plate. ) So the
> fasteners connecting the plate to the spar are under primarily shear
> loading, not tensile.
>
> For this sort of configuration, the additional cross section of the
> machine screw (or cap screw, if you use those) would seem the better
> choice. If, however, you have something like a Boomkicker, or a vang with
> “generic” mounting plates that don’t curve around the spars, rivets might
> be a better choice.
>
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
> la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225
> Washington, NC
>
> BTW, both have Garhauer vangs.
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III

[sender via CnC-List]

I replied directly
Eric

On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 10:18 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi Eric,
>
> If you are serious about a 35, check out my boat. No issues, I plan to
> haul in late August (or earlier if opportunity presents) to do regular
> maintenance. I didn't put in the ad that the bottom was prep'd and
> waterproofed, Intercoat 2000, with the boat out of the water for 8 months
> many years ago. She shows no blisters at each haulout.
>
> http://www.usednanaimo.com/classified-ad/CC-35-sailboat_29730445
> Just across "the Pond" from Vancouver.
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
>
> *Sweet *At 09:51 PM 27/07/2017, you wrote:
>
> Richard:
> I recently bought a C 35 MkII in Vancouver, Fell in love with the boat.
> Â
>
> I had a survey done on it. I knew there were some issues with it, I had
> what I thought was a very close look at it. As it happens the surveyor
> found a lot more problems to my surprise. Â so I reluctantly let it go.Â
> I'd go for another one in a heartbeat.
>
> I've never had a close look at a Mk III, but despite my bitter
> disappointment I'd say go for it if the boat resonates with you.  The key
> is obviously is to make sure you get a purchase survey done on it.  The
> boat I looked at had a 3 year old insurance survey, and the seller
> suggested it was "still good".  Ha!Â
>
> Before you make an offer, check out the availability of marina slips in
> your area.
>
> Good luck,
> Eric
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 7:06 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> By the way, if you have need of a delivery captain who owns a C with
> full credentials, I have a good friend who bought my C when I left
> Chicago.  He teaches sailing classes and has done a number of Great Lakes
> deliveries.  I am sure he would be reasonably priced as well.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> C 37/40+
> Madeira Beach, FL
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/27/17 7:58 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Richard Gotthardt 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 MK III
>
> Doug,
>
> Nice boat, but my search area is limited to Lake Michigan. I don't want to
> even think about shipping a boat.
>
> Thanks for the offer.
>
> On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 6:09 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Richard,Â
> I have my 1979 Landfall 38 for sale, if your interested. I moved up to the
> landfall 39. At least I think it was a move up. :-)Â
> Being a 2 boat owner...
> http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.
> jsp?=Feet=3098253=en=broker&=
> westyachts&=westyachts&
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug MountjoyÂ
> POYCÂ
> PegasusÂ
> Lf38Â
> Significant OtherÂ
> LF39Â
>
>  Original message 
> From: Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/27/17 13:22 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Richard Gotthardt 
> Subject: Stus-List 35 MK III
>
> I'm looking for a boat and was wondering if there's a "boats for sale"
> section on cncphotoalbum.com ?
>
> Is anyone familiar with this boat, or have any comments based on the scant
> information that's posted?
>
> https://muskegon.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-mk-iii-sailboat/6235586493.html
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:Â
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:Â
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35 MK III

[sender via CnC-List]

Richard:
I recently bought a C 35 MkII in Vancouver, Fell in love with the boat.

I had a survey done on it. I knew there were some issues with it, I had
what I thought was a very close look at it. As it happens the surveyor
found a lot more problems to my surprise.  so I reluctantly let it go.  I'd
go for another one in a heartbeat.

I've never had a close look at a Mk III, but despite my bitter
disappointment I'd say go for it if the boat resonates with you.  The key
is obviously is to make sure you get a purchase survey done on it.  The
boat I looked at had a 3 year old insurance survey, and the seller
suggested it was "still good".  Ha!

Before you make an offer, check out the availability of marina slips in
your area.

Good luck,
Eric



On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 7:06 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> By the way, if you have need of a delivery captain who owns a C with
> full credentials, I have a good friend who bought my C when I left
> Chicago.  He teaches sailing classes and has done a number of Great Lakes
> deliveries.  I am sure he would be reasonably priced as well.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> C 37/40+
> Madeira Beach, FL
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/27/17 7:58 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Richard Gotthardt 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 MK III
>
> Doug,
>
> Nice boat, but my search area is limited to Lake Michigan. I don't want to
> even think about shipping a boat.
>
> Thanks for the offer.
>
> On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 6:09 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Richard,
>> I have my 1979 Landfall 38 for sale, if your interested. I moved up to
>> the landfall 39. At least I think it was a move up. :-)
>> Being a 2 boat owner...
>> http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?;
>> units=Feet=3098253=en=broker&=westyacht
>> s&=westyachts&
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> POYC
>> Pegasus
>> Lf38
>> Significant Other
>> LF39
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List 
>> Date: 7/27/17 13:22 (GMT-08:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Richard Gotthardt 
>> Subject: Stus-List 35 MK III
>>
>> I'm looking for a boat and was wondering if there's a "boats for sale"
>> section on cncphotoalbum.com ?
>>
>> Is anyone familiar with this boat, or have any comments based on the
>> scant information that's posted?
>>
>> https://muskegon.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-mk-iii-sailboat/6235586493.html
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List set screws

[sender via CnC-List]

If the coupling is still easily removable, I'd say take it out of the boat
and clean the threads on it thoroughly with brake cleaner, the jack bolts
too, and then re-assemble them with lots of blue Locktite 242. Then torque
them to the correct spec for the type of bolt.

Since the brake cleaning spray makes a lot of flammable vapor, you'd need
to think of another way to remove grease film from the coupler if it has to
stay in the boat.  The new coupling will almost certainly have oil residue
left over from manufacturing when the tap threaded the hole.

When used on clean, clean, clean threads blue Locktite will be stronger
than the wire method.   Don't use red Locktite, it's considered permanent
and you may break the bolt trying to take it off.

Look at the head of the bolt.  if it's plain, it's a grade 2, if it has 3
dashes, it's grade 5. if it has 6 dashes, it's a grade 8.  Go online and
get the maximum "lubricated" torque value for your size bolt and torque
them to the exact value.

Eric


On Sun, Jun 11, 2017 at 1:30 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>   I replaced prop shaft and coupler this spring.  Shaft is seated in
> coupler and two square head, drilled, cup pointed bolts go into dimples in
> shaft..i know that proper technique is to properly safety wire the bolts
> through drilled heads so can't come loose.  But, when seated the drilled
> holes in bolt heads are perpendicular to coupler and there is absolutely no
> room to properly safety wire these..
> I could remove bolts, drill opposite faces of bolt, reinstall and safety
> wire, BUT, I was thinking of getting proper size cup head set screws
> instead and stacking two in the coupler to lock them instead.
> Thoughts..
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside

[sender via CnC-List]

Ron:
I'm not sure what's in it.  I doubt it's unique, surely there are lots of
similar products out there.

I guess my point was that as much as bleach is the old standard, it does
sometimes cause collateral damage.  Also as soon as the chlorine reacts or
evaporates, it done and gone.  Whereas the specialty product I tried seems
to offer some persistent resistance to re-growth.

If you can't find a specialty product designed specifically for mold at a
local hardware store, you could try a janitorial supply house, or Acklands
Grainger.

Eric

On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 10:06 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Don't know if they have that here.
> What's the active ingredient(s)?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> --------------
> *From:* sender via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* sender <victoriaene...@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, April 28, 2017 10:58 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside
>
> There is a product called Mold Control available at Canadian Tire and
> other hardware stores.  Clean surfaces conventionally and then you spray it
> on and let it dry on the surface.  As it dries, it kills the mold spoors.
> It kills the mold and little else.  When i first tried it at home I found
> it was more effective than bleach in so much as the chronically moldy
> window sill in our bathroom remained mold free longer.
>
> Chlorine bleach, on the other hand, kills the mold and everything else.
> It damages most surfaces and materials,at least to some small degree, and
> the compounds in the fumes are potential health hazards.
>
> On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 10:15 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Greetings folks,
> I've discovered that I'm getting a slight mold growth on the inside glass
> (GRF) in the off season.  Can anyone suggest a mild cleaner that won't
> scratch the GRF?  I'm worried that something harsh might leave microscopic
> pits that would promote more mold growth in the off season.
> Also, does anyone wax or otherwise protect the inside glass?  And if so,
> what do you use?
> What about the textured ceiling?
> I might have to replace my scuppers to effect prevention.  I never had it
> before, but now since I've lost all three scupper horns, I've sealed up the
> holes to stop critters from nesting and suddenly I'm getting mold.
> Thanks
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside

[sender via CnC-List]

There is a product called Mold Control available at Canadian Tire and other
hardware stores.  Clean surfaces conventionally and then you spray it on
and let it dry on the surface.  As it dries, it kills the mold spoors.  It
kills the mold and little else.  When i first tried it at home I found it
was more effective than bleach in so much as the chronically moldy window
sill in our bathroom remained mold free longer.

Chlorine bleach, on the other hand, kills the mold and everything else.  It
damages most surfaces and materials,at least to some small degree, and the
compounds in the fumes are potential health hazards.

On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 10:15 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Greetings folks,
> I've discovered that I'm getting a slight mold growth on the inside glass
> (GRF) in the off season.  Can anyone suggest a mild cleaner that won't
> scratch the GRF?  I'm worried that something harsh might leave microscopic
> pits that would promote more mold growth in the off season.
> Also, does anyone wax or otherwise protect the inside glass?  And if so,
> what do you use?
> What about the textured ceiling?
> I might have to replace my scuppers to effect prevention.  I never had it
> before, but now since I've lost all three scupper horns, I've sealed up the
> holes to stop critters from nesting and suddenly I'm getting mold.
> Thanks
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List yanmar diesel

[sender via CnC-List]

I think the tank cleaning and fresh fuel should be done regardless.  I did
that, it helped, the old fuel was the color of weak coffee, the new was
nearly clear.

On the other hand, a clogged exhaust elbow (or any other restriction in the
exhaust) will result in a loss of power under load and a lot more black
smoke.  Since you said it runs clean when it finally does start I don't
think that's your problem.

On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 5:10 AM, Frank via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Michael ,
> Before you start tearing things apart, check to see that your fuel feed
> line from the tank to the fuel pump is not obstructed.  There is usually a
> small screen on the end of the line that terminates in the tank that clogs
> up and can restrict fuel flow from the tank to the pump.  This is a common
> problem usually solved by blowing air through the line from the pump end
> back into the tank.  I had a similar problem and fortunately someone on the
> list suggested this procedure to me.  It worked.
>
> Good luck
>
> Frank
> S/V Cool Change
> C 38LF, S/N: 001
> Rose City Yacht Club
> Portland, Oregon
>
>
> *From:* Michael Jones via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 5, 2016 6:18 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Michael Jones ; Tristan Jones
> *Subject:* Stus-List yanmar diesel
>
> Hello experts,
>
> I wonder if you can help me with any suggestions. I have a C with a
> 3GM30 F. This motor runs well and smoothly, water circulates, no smoke.
> Recently it has been taking more and more revolutions to get it started.
> When it is turning over there does not appear to be anything going on, but
> when it starts its immediately smooth and normal (no coughing and
> spluttering).
>
> This leads me to think that there must be a leak in the fuel system which
> is allowing the fuel to drain back out of the injectors. The fact that it
> seems to start with all 3 cylinders suggests that the leak is before the
> injector pump.
>
> I cannot see any fuel leaking out at the supply pump or filter, so I'm
> wondering if anyone can suggest where I should start looking? Or what might
> cause this and not show fuel leaking or spraying out? I'd like to introduce
> some method into my troubleshooting!
>
> Thanks and regards
>
> Mike Jones
> c Seanachai
> Oak Bay, Victoria.
>
>
>
> On Sep 25, 2016, at 6:09 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Good morning all.  Several weeks back there was a discussion surrounding
> issues with bulging keel castings in colder climates.   Been meaning to
> post some photos I took awhile back, here they are:
>
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
>
>
> Dave 33-2 Windstar
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List yanmar diesel

[sender via CnC-List]

The 2QM15 I had got progressively harder to start as it got colder out (30
- 40 secconds of cranking before it would fire), but would run fine once it
got going and start again instantly several hours later.   The engine had
lots of hours so I was concerned the engine was going to need a re-build.
I tried several things, with little effect, and then took the injectors
out, took them to a shop that replaced the tips.   It made a huge
difference.  In the summer it would start to fire almost instantly, and in
10 or so in the fall.

Cranking RPM is an important part of the mix.  Before looking at the fuel
system, I'd make sure your cables are good.   Test with a volt meter
connected to the positive lug on the starter motor and the engine ground.
Have someone turn it over.  The voltage will drop by 1 to 1.5 v, if any
more then start inspecting and cleaning connections on both positive and
negative cables and the battery terminals.  If the starter is a bit
sluggish, and there is very little or no voltage drop when you turn it
over, then the starter itself should go to an auto electric shop for
brushes or solenoid replacement.  (IMHO it better to rebuild original than
roll the dice with Nappa replacement)

Eric

On Wed, Oct 5, 2016 at 8:16 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> No glow plugs on these engines.  Precombustion chambers instead.  I can
> start mine in the dead of winter with seemingly no other indication that it
> is cold outside.
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> On Oct 5, 2016 11:03 PM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> How many hours on your engine? How are you filters? Does it have glow
>> plugs, a bad glow plug will cause hard starting. Dirty injectors will also
>> cause this, but I think there would be more issues, like poor idle. With
>> the smooth running agter start I don't think it is fuel related.
>>
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>>
>> svPegasus
>>
>> LF38 #4
>>
>> just west of Ballard, WA.
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Original message--
>>
>> *From: *Michael Jones via CnC-List
>>
>> *Date: *Wed, Oct 5, 2016 18:19
>>
>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>>
>> *Cc: *Michael Jones;Tristan Jones;
>>
>> *Subject:*Stus-List yanmar diesel
>>
>>
>> Hello experts,
>>
>> I wonder if you can help me with any suggestions. I have a C with a
>> 3GM30 F. This motor runs well and smoothly, water circulates, no smoke.
>> Recently it has been taking more and more revolutions to get it started.
>> When it is turning over there does not appear to be anything going on, but
>> when it starts its immediately smooth and normal (no coughing and
>> spluttering).
>>
>> This leads me to think that there must be a leak in the fuel system which
>> is allowing the fuel to drain back out of the injectors. The fact that it
>> seems to start with all 3 cylinders suggests that the leak is before the
>> injector pump.
>>
>> I cannot see any fuel leaking out at the supply pump or filter, so I'm
>> wondering if anyone can suggest where I should start looking? Or what might
>> cause this and not show fuel leaking or spraying out? I'd like to introduce
>> some method into my troubleshooting!
>>
>> Thanks and regards
>>
>> Mike Jones
>> c Seanachai
>> Oak Bay, Victoria.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sep 25, 2016, at 6:09 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Good morning all.  Several weeks back there was a discussion surrounding
>> issues with bulging keel castings in colder climates.   Been meaning to
>> post some photos I took awhile back, here they are:
>>
>>
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
>>
>>
>> Dave 33-2 Windstar
>>
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