Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Dave via CnC-List]

Same.   And I bring my main halyard back when putting the boat away.   Both it 
and the topping lift attached to a soft shackle at the boom end.   

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 2, 2017, at 8:26 PM, john sandford <johnsandf...@eastlink.ca> wrote:
> 
> Seems the reason that having a topping lift is even an issue, is that most 
> folks don’t have it lead back to the cockpit, where they can do ‘instant’ 
> adjustments
> Mine is lead forward on the boom, down and back to a camcleat in the cockpit 
> area.
> I can work it as needed to adjust twist, or not, and also can lay full weight 
> on the boom when im putting the main away.
> Never does it chafe my Luff for more than a  minute.
> Never does it even kiss my backstay.
> But.. that’s just me
> John
> LF38
>  
>  
>  
> From: Rick Brass [mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net] 
> Sent: June-02-17 2:57 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>  
> The springs in the solid vang (or hydraulic pressure, or bent fiberglass in 
> the case of a boomkicker) supports the boom. Tensioning or easing the control 
> line on the vang controls luff tension – easing the line induces twist.
>  
> The topping lift has two main purposes:
> It screws up your tacks in light air when it wraps around the backstay
> It makes money for your sailmaker when it abrades the leach of your mainsail
>  
> And you don’t need to leave the cockpit to adjust the rigid vang as you do 
> when you invariably forget to adjust the topping lift before actually going 
> sailing.
>  
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 02, 2017 9:06 AM
> To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>  
> I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered 
> getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack to 
> it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which can 
> induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping lift.
>  
> Josh
>  
> On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella 
> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>  
> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid vang. 
> My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above horizontal 
> unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years ago.
>  
> Gary
> 30-1
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian 
> Davis via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>  
> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you 
> have pictures as well please email me some directly. 
>  
> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also 
> have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also 
> helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen 
> his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for 
> other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job 
> documenting his work.
>  
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>  
> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hey Brian, 
>  
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
> relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
> splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the 
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and 
> figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom 
> has room to be lifted.
>  
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>  
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the 
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>  
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like 
> my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 
> but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that yours 
> is a 37?
>  
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
>  
>  
> 

Stus-List Boom Rigging - now topping lift

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Thoughts on boom topping lift.

Like others, Touche' has a boom topping lift.  It is the original wire with
swage eyes on both ends.  It simply runs to the masthead and terminates
there.  I just never built up the initiative to change it to Dyneema or
equivalent.

Touche' has a Garhauer rigid boom vang.  There is extra lift in the vang
for raising the boom while sailing.

However, I still like the topping lift for stabilizing the boom when
flaking the main and whenever the mainsail is not hoisted.  I added a
purchase with a carabiner at the lower end.  When sailing, I ALWAYS detach
the topping lift and carry it forward to the base of the mast.  The
purchase is used both to adjust the boom height (when mainsail is not
hoisted) and to tension the lift when attached to the mast.  Here is a
picture:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsZ2ZKSGNuOThHTGs

The purchase uses Harken 244 and 235 blocks.

Never, ever sail with the main hoisted and a wire topping lift.  The wire
will abrade the stitching on the leech and you might eject a batten.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I added a two part tackle to my topping lift this year.The line is
attached to the end of the boom with a loop and rolling hitch (which allows
some adjustment.  It is then rove through the normal masthead sheave, and
inside the mast to where it exits around 6' above the deck and is eye
spliced (IIRC) to a single block.   Through that block runs a second line
to another single block (with becket) in the normal location at the mast
base and thence back to the clutch on the cabin top.  (The standing part of
that line ends at the becket, the running part goes through both both the
upper and lower blocks and back to the clutch. forming a 2 part tackle.)
   I use an ashley stopper knot - makes a great handle.  The line to the
cockpit is larger and easier on the hands, and the 2:1 advantage makes it
easy to raise the boom with one hand.   There is more than enough range for
the block to travel between the mast exit and the mast step as you really
don't need to move the boom that much.  Works great, big improvement for
little money as I had the blocks.

I can post photos if interested.


Dave




*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
Davis via CnC-List
*Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging



Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
you have pictures as well please email me some directly.



Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
amazing job documenting his work.



http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html



On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hey Brian,



I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
boom has room to be lifted.



Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.



Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
boom just forward of the dodger.



Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
that yours is a 37?



Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?



Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD









On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

Greetings everyone,



I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
looking for some guidance.



Regards,

--

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I also take the main halyard to the end of the boom. Mostly it stops the
halyard slap. But it also takes the weight when I lean on the boom when
putting on the sail cover.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2017 6:20 PM
To: CNC CNC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David <davidrisc...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

 

Am I alone with taking the main halyard back to the aft end of boom and
letting the vang take the interim weight while the halyard takes the brunt
of the force for securing the boom down?

 

1981 40-2

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone



 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Date: 6/2/17 14:41 (GMT-05:00) 
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com <mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging 

I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered
getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack
to it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which
can induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping
lift. 

 

Josh

 

On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is "wally bryant stella
blue". The documentation is outstanding.

 

Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
ago.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of Brian Davis via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com <mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

 

Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you
have pictures as well please email me some directly.  

 

Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also
have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also
helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen
his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for
other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job
documenting his work.

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html

 

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hey Brian, 

 

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is
relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye
splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
boom has room to be lifted.

 

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

 

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
boom just forward of the dodger.

 

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like
my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37
but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that
yours is a 37?

 

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Greetings everyone,

 

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just looking
for some guidance.

 

Regards,

-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida

 
<https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlX
Tk1R=download

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[john sandford via CnC-List]

Seems the reason that having a topping lift is even an issue, is that most 
folks don’t have it lead back to the cockpit, where they can do ‘instant’ 
adjustments

Mine is lead forward on the boom, down and back to a camcleat in the cockpit 
area.

I can work it as needed to adjust twist, or not, and also can lay full weight 
on the boom when im putting the main away.

Never does it chafe my Luff for more than a  minute.

Never does it even kiss my backstay.

But.. that’s just me

John 

LF38

 

 

 

From: Rick Brass [mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net] 
Sent: June-02-17 2:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

 

The springs in the solid vang (or hydraulic pressure, or bent fiberglass in the 
case of a boomkicker) supports the boom. Tensioning or easing the control line 
on the vang controls luff tension – easing the line induces twist. 

 

The topping lift has two main purposes:

It screws up your tacks in light air when it wraps around the backstay

It makes money for your sailmaker when it abrades the leach of your mainsail

 

And you don’t need to leave the cockpit to adjust the rigid vang as you do when 
you invariably forget to adjust the topping lift before actually going sailing.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2017 9:06 AM
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

 

I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered 
getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack to 
it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which can 
induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping lift.

 

Josh

 

On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella 
blue”. The documentation is outstanding.

 

Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid vang. 
My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above horizontal unless 
I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years ago.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Davis 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

 

Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you 
have pictures as well please email me some directly.  

 

Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also 
have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also 
helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen his 
website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for other 
projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job documenting his 
work.

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html

 

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hey Brian, 

 

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the halyard 
to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and figure 
the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom has room to 
be lifted.

 

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

 

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the boom 
just forward of the dodger.

 

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like my 
37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 but 
also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that yours is a 
37?

 

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Greetings everyone,

 

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I have 
the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully educated on 
the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides that 
keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her the SS cable that 
connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and stowed below 
and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other.  Not sure 
how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek block that I need to replace 
on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it the proper and best way, but I

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[William Walker via CnC-List]

That's the way I do it..
Bill Walker 
cnc 36
Pentwater, Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Friday, June 2, 2017 David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Am I alone with taking the main halyard back to the aft end of boom and letting 
the vang take the interim weight while the halyard takes the brunt of the force 
for securing the boom down?


1981 40-2




Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone



 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 6/2/17 14:41 (GMT-05:00) 
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging 

I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered 
getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack to 
it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which can 
induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping lift. 


Josh


On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella 
blue”. The documentation is outstanding.

 

Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid vang. 
My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above horizontal unless 
I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years ago.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Davis 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

 

Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you 
have pictures as well please email me some directly.  

 

Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also 
have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also 
helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen his 
website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for other 
projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job documenting his 
work.

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html

 

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hey Brian, 

 

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the halyard 
to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and figure 
the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom has room to 
be lifted.

 

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

 

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the boom 
just forward of the dodger.

 

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like my 
37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 but 
also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that yours is a 
37?

 

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Greetings everyone,

 

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I have 
the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully educated on 
the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides that 
keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her the SS cable that 
connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and stowed below 
and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other.  Not sure 
how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek block that I need to replace 
on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it the proper and best way, but I 
don't have any good drawings and just looking for some guidance.

 

Regards,

-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida



 



Virus-free. www.avast.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida




___

This list is

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

This is what I do, when I need a solid  support for the boom (no vang and a 
Boomkicker) or when installing the boom after remasting.

Marek

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 18:20
To: CNC CNC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David <davidrisc...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

Am I alone with taking the main halyard back to the aft end of boom and letting 
the vang take the interim weight while the halyard takes the brunt of the force 
for securing the boom down?

1981 40-2



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 6/2/17 14:41 (GMT-05:00)
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com<mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered 
getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack to 
it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which can 
induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping lift.

Josh

On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is "wally bryant stella 
blue". The documentation is outstanding.

Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid vang. 
My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above horizontal unless 
I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years ago.

Gary
30-1

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Brian Davis via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com<mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you 
have pictures as well please email me some directly.

Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also 
have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also 
helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen his 
website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for other 
projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job documenting his 
work.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hey Brian,

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the halyard 
to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and figure 
the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom has room to 
be lifted.

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the boom 
just forward of the dodger.

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like my 
37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 but 
also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that yours is a 
37?

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Greetings everyone,

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I have 
the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully educated on 
the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides that 
keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her the SS cable that 
connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and stowed below 
and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other.  Not sure 
how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek block that I need to replace 
on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it the proper and best way, but I 
don't have any good drawings and just looking for some guidance.

Regards,

--
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
[https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download]

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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Can't think of a single boat I have sailed on that does not do this if fitted 
with a solid vang. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 2, 2017, at 18:19, David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Am I alone with taking the main halyard back to the aft end of boom and 
> letting the vang take the interim weight while the halyard takes the brunt of 
> the force for securing the boom down?
> 
> 1981 40-2
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> Date: 6/2/17 14:41 (GMT-05:00) 
> To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging 
> 
> I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered 
> getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack to 
> it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which can 
> induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping lift.
> 
> Josh
> 
>> On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella 
>> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid 
>> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above 
>> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years 
>> ago.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> 30-1
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian 
>> Davis via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you 
>> have pictures as well please email me some directly. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also 
>> have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also 
>> helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen 
>> his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for 
>> other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job 
>> documenting his work.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hey Brian, 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
>> relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
>> splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the 
>> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end 
>> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the 
>> boom has room to be lifted.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the 
>> boom just forward of the dodger.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like 
>> my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 
>> but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that 
>> yours is a 37?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> 
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> 
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Greetings everyone,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I 
>> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully 
>> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old 
>> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her 
>> the SS cable that conne

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Nope not alone at all.  Taking the halyard aft does 2 things.  First it
keeps the halyard from slapping the mast and disturbing your dock
neighbors.  Second it supports the boom and provides more clearance for the
dodger and head room in the cockpit while in port.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jun 2, 2017 6:20 PM, "David via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Am I alone with taking the main halyard back to the aft end of boom and
> letting the vang take the interim weight while the halyard takes the brunt
> of the force for securing the boom down?
>
> 1981 40-2
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Date: 6/2/17 14:41 (GMT-05:00)
> To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>
> I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered
> getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack
> to it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which
> can induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping
> lift.
>
> Josh
>
> On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella
>> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
>> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
>> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
>> ago.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> 30-1
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
>> Davis via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>>
>>
>>
>> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
>> you have pictures as well please email me some directly.
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
>> also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
>> list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
>> not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
>> reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
>> amazing job documenting his work.
>>
>>
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hey Brian,
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
>> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
>> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
>> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
>> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
>> boom has room to be lifted.
>>
>>
>>
>> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on
>> the boom just forward of the dodger.
>>
>>
>>
>> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
>> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
>> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
>> that yours is a 37?
>>
>>
>>
>> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>>
>>
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>>
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>
>> 1989 C 37+
>>
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Greetings everyone,
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
>> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
>> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
>> rope guides that keep the main from falling 

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Love the words of wisdom from all of you experienced sailors!  Thank you!

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On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 1:56 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The springs in the solid vang (or hydraulic pressure, or bent fiberglass
> in the case of a boomkicker) supports the boom. Tensioning or easing the
> control line on the vang controls luff tension – easing the line induces
> twist.
>
>
>
> The topping lift has two main purposes:
>
> It screws up your tacks in light air when it wraps around the backstay
>
> It makes money for your sailmaker when it abrades the leach of your
> mainsail
>
>
>
> And you don’t need to leave the cockpit to adjust the rigid vang as you do
> when you invariably forget to adjust the topping lift before actually going
> sailing.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 02, 2017 9:06 AM
> *To:* C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>
>
>
> I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered
> getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack
> to it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which
> can induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping
> lift.
>
>
>
> Josh
>
>
>
> On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella
> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>
>
>
> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
> ago.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Davis via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>
>
>
> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
> you have pictures as well please email me some directly.
>
>
>
> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
> also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
> list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
> not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
> reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
> amazing job documenting his work.
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Brian,
>
>
>
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
> boom has room to be lifted.
>
>
>
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>
>
>
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>
>
>
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
> that yours is a 37?
>
>
>
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
>
>
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my 

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Agreed. I bought mine a one size a bit big but it works very well.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 2, 2017, at 3:17 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

+ 1 on Garhauer.

But talk to them before you buy. They will make sure that what you buy is what 
you really need and that it fist your boom 9and potentially mast step).

You don’t need a topping lift. If you have a rigid vang. One fewer lines to 
worry about.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 11:44
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C.<mailto:capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

Garhauer boom vangs are the best value. Many on the list have them.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The springs in the solid vang (or hydraulic pressure, or bent fiberglass in the 
case of a boomkicker) supports the boom. Tensioning or easing the control line 
on the vang controls luff tension – easing the line induces twist. 

 

The topping lift has two main purposes:

It screws up your tacks in light air when it wraps around the backstay

It makes money for your sailmaker when it abrades the leach of your mainsail

 

And you don’t need to leave the cockpit to adjust the rigid vang as you do when 
you invariably forget to adjust the topping lift before actually going sailing.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2017 9:06 AM
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

 

I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered 
getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack to 
it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which can 
induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping lift.

 

Josh

 

On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella 
blue”. The documentation is outstanding.

 

Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid vang. 
My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above horizontal unless 
I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years ago.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of Brian Davis via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com <mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

 

Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you 
have pictures as well please email me some directly.  

 

Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also 
have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also 
helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen his 
website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for other 
projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job documenting his 
work.

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html

 

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hey Brian, 

 

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the halyard 
to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and figure 
the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom has room to 
be lifted.

 

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

 

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the boom 
just forward of the dodger.

 

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like my 
37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 but 
also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that yours is a 
37?

 

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Greetings everyone,

 

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I have 
the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully educated on 
the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides that 
keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her the SS cable that 
connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and stowed below 
and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other.  Not sure 
how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek block that I need to replace 
on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it the proper and best way, but I 
don't have any good drawings and just looking for some guidance.

 

Regards,

-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida

  
<https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download>
 

 


 
<https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
 

Virus-fr

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Once you install the vang on the boom with the weight of the flaked sail 
on it, you may find the supplied spring in the vang is either to weak, 
or too strong. Just call Garhauer and they will swap out the spring for 
whatever you need. The spring that comes with it is fine for most 
installations.


Bill Bina


On 6/2/2017 12:03 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
Great recommendation, thanks!  I just talked to Rob there. Very 
helpful.  This one would fit my 38LF and seems reasonable at $495 plus 
ship.


https://www.garhauerstore.com/rigid-boom-vang-rv20-1-sl.html



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Great recommendation, thanks!  I just talked to Rob there.  Very helpful.
This one would fit my 38LF and seems reasonable at $495 plus ship.

https://www.garhauerstore.com/rigid-boom-vang-rv20-1-sl.html

On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 11:43 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Garhauer boom vangs are the best value. Many on the list have them.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 2, 2017, at 9:24 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks, Gary.  I've noticed that boom vang pole on other boats in my
> marina.  Does anyone know where I can find one reasonably priced, or does
> somebody have an extra that they are willing to part with?
>
> On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella
>> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
>> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
>> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
>> ago.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> 30-1
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
>> Davis via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>>
>>
>>
>> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
>> you have pictures as well please email me some directly.
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
>> also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
>> list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
>> not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
>> reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
>> amazing job documenting his work.
>>
>>
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hey Brian,
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
>> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
>> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
>> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
>> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
>> boom has room to be lifted.
>>
>>
>>
>> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on
>> the boom just forward of the dodger.
>>
>>
>>
>> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
>> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
>> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
>> that yours is a 37?
>>
>>
>>
>> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>>
>>
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>>
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>
>> 1989 C 37+
>>
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Greetings everyone,
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
>> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
>> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
>> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
>> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
>> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
>> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
>> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
>> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
>> looking for some guidance.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> --
>>
>> Brian Davis
>&

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+ 1 on Garhauer.

But talk to them before you buy. They will make sure that what you buy is what 
you really need and that it fist your boom 9and potentially mast step).

You don’t need a topping lift. If you have a rigid vang. One fewer lines to 
worry about.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 11:44
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C.<mailto:capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

Garhauer boom vangs are the best value. Many on the list have them.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Garhauer boom vangs are the best value. Many on the list have them. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 2, 2017, at 9:24 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Gary.  I've noticed that boom vang pole on other boats in my marina.  
> Does anyone know where I can find one reasonably priced, or does somebody 
> have an extra that they are willing to part with? 
> 
>> On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella 
>> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid 
>> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above 
>> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years 
>> ago.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> 30-1
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian 
>> Davis via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you 
>> have pictures as well please email me some directly. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also 
>> have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also 
>> helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen 
>> his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for 
>> other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job 
>> documenting his work.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hey Brian, 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
>> relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
>> splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the 
>> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end 
>> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the 
>> boom has room to be lifted.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the 
>> boom just forward of the dodger.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like 
>> my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 
>> but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that 
>> yours is a 37?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> 
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> 
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Greetings everyone,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I 
>> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully 
>> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old 
>> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her 
>> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was 
>> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire 
>> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek 
>> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it 
>> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just looking 
>> for some guidance.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Brian Davis
>> 
>> 1980 C Landfall 38
>> 
>> "Nina"
>> 
>> Southeast Florida
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
&g

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I liked the Stella Blue website. Very good documentation.

On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella
> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>
>
>
> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
> ago.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Davis via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>
>
>
> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
> you have pictures as well please email me some directly.
>
>
>
> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
> also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
> list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
> not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
> reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
> amazing job documenting his work.
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Brian,
>
>
>
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
> boom has room to be lifted.
>
>
>
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>
>
>
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>
>
>
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
> that yours is a 37?
>
>
>
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
>
>
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
> looking for some guidance.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> --
>
> Brian Davis
>
> 1980 C Landfall 38
>
> "Nina"
>
> Southeast Florida
>
> [image:
> https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download]
>
>
>
> [image:
> https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thanks, Gary.  I've noticed that boom vang pole on other boats in my
marina.  Does anyone know where I can find one reasonably priced, or does
somebody have an extra that they are willing to part with?

On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella
> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>
>
>
> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
> ago.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Davis via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>
>
>
> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
> you have pictures as well please email me some directly.
>
>
>
> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
> also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
> list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
> not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
> reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
> amazing job documenting his work.
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Brian,
>
>
>
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
> boom has room to be lifted.
>
>
>
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>
>
>
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>
>
>
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
> that yours is a 37?
>
>
>
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
>
>
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
> looking for some guidance.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> --
>
> Brian Davis
>
> 1980 C Landfall 38
>
> "Nina"
>
> Southeast Florida
>
> [image:
> https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download]
>
>
>
> [image:
> https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is suppor

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I have a Garhauer power vang, and still find uses for my topping lift. 
It is handy to have around. I even use it to hold up the mast while 
removing or installing the boom and vang each fall and spring. It also 
hauls my long-range wifi up the backstay. :-)


Bill Bina


On 6/2/2017 9:42 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
I use both a rigid vang and topping lift. The problem is furling  the 
main in a seaway. When you lean on the boom for support to put sail 
ties on as the boat rolls and pitches, the vang won't support your 
weight and swings to leeward while getting lower. Even cranking on the 
sheet won't help.
Unless you're racing at a fairly high level, belt and suspenders is my 
recommendation.


Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant
stella blue”. The documentation is outstanding.

Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a
rigid vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom
above horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift
disappeared many years ago.

Gary

30-1

*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Brian Davis
via CnC-List
*Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com
<mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com>>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed
replies.  If you have pictures as well please email me some directly.

Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her
numbers and also have some of the original paper work.  Paul
Eugenio who is on this list also helped confirm that last year
after I bought her. If you all have not seen his website you
should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for other
projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job
documenting his work.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
<http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html>

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hey Brian,

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you
topping lift it is relatively cheap and you can do the
splicing yourself (locked brummel eye splice with closed
thimble). If the length is in question then use the halyard to
pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two
so that the boom has room to be lifted.

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is
cleated on the boom just forward of the dodger.

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture
looks a lot like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+
and was the successor to the 37 but also brought with it
characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that yours is a 37?

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Greetings everyone,

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging
on my LF 38.  I have the manual and it shows some length
measurements, but I'm not fully educated on the terms. The
only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides
that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I
bought her the SS cable that connects the back of the boom
to the top of the mast was off and stowed below and there
is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other.
Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I
want to rig it the proper and best way, but I don't have
any good drawings and just looking for some guidance.

Regards,

-- 


Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida


https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download


https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif

<http

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I use both a rigid vang and topping lift. The problem is furling  the main
in a seaway. When you lean on the boom for support to put sail ties on as
the boat rolls and pitches, the vang won't support your weight and swings
to leeward while getting lower. Even cranking on the sheet won't help.
Unless you're racing at a fairly high level, belt and suspenders is my
recommendation.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella
> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>
>
>
> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
> ago.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Davis via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>
>
>
> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
> you have pictures as well please email me some directly.
>
>
>
> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
> also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
> list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
> not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
> reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
> amazing job documenting his work.
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Brian,
>
>
>
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
> boom has room to be lifted.
>
>
>
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>
>
>
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>
>
>
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
> that yours is a 37?
>
>
>
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
>
>
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
> looking for some guidance.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> --
>
> Brian Davis
>
> 1980 C Landfall 38
>
> "Nina"
>
> Southeast Florida
>
> [image:
> https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download]
>
>
>
> [image:
> https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, ple

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered
getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack
to it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which
can induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping
lift.

Josh

On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella
> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>
>
>
> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid
> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above
> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years
> ago.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Davis via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>
>
>
> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
> you have pictures as well please email me some directly.
>
>
>
> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
> also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
> list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
> not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
> reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
> amazing job documenting his work.
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Brian,
>
>
>
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
> boom has room to be lifted.
>
>
>
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>
>
>
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>
>
>
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
> that yours is a 37?
>
>
>
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
>
>
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
> looking for some guidance.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> --
>
> Brian Davis
>
> 1980 C Landfall 38
>
> "Nina"
>
> Southeast Florida
>
> [image:
> https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download]
>
>
>
> [image:
> https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella 
blue”. The documentation is outstanding.

 

Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid vang. 
My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above horizontal unless 
I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years ago.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Davis 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

 

Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you 
have pictures as well please email me some directly.  

 

Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also 
have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also 
helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen his 
website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for other 
projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job documenting his 
work.

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html

 

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hey Brian, 

 

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the halyard 
to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and figure 
the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom has room to 
be lifted.

 

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

 

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the boom 
just forward of the dodger.

 

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like my 
37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 but 
also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that yours is a 
37?

 

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Greetings everyone,

 

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I have 
the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully educated on 
the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides that 
keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her the SS cable that 
connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and stowed below 
and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other.  Not sure 
how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek block that I need to replace 
on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it the proper and best way, but I 
don't have any good drawings and just looking for some guidance.

 

Regards,

-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida

  
<https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download>
 

 


 
<https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
 

Virus-free.  
<https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=oa-3108-a>
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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida

  
<https://docs.google.com/uc?export=download=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LYklSNlB4cFM5UWs=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LVUNlN1orQTlTc05OdzFHMXV6WFM2R281S1EwPQ>
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If
you have pictures as well please email me some directly.

Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and
also have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this
list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have
not seen his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a
reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an
amazing job documenting his work.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey Brian,
>
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
> is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
> eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
> boom has room to be lifted.
>
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
> like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
> the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
> that yours is a 37?
>
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> Greetings everyone,
>
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
> looking for some guidance.
>
> Regards,
>
> --
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
> Southeast Florida
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_72217012970531_m_7834295882684719431_m_-5469201269122569337_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

The boat identifying information should be on the transom, usually the upper 
starboard corner.  I believe C’s numbering system indicates make (“ZCC”), 
size, hull number, and plant where the boat was built. 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2017 9:50 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

Hey Brian,  

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the halyard 
to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and figure 
the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom has room to 
be lifted.

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the boom 
just forward of the dodger.

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like my 
37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 but 
also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that yours is a 
37?

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 




On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

  Greetings everyone,

  I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I 
have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully 
educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope 
guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her the SS 
cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and 
stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the 
other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek block that I 
need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it the proper and 
best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just looking for some guidance.

  Regards,

  -- 

  Brian Davis
  1980 C Landfall 38
  "Nina"
  Southeast Florida


   Virus-free. www.avast.com  


  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Hey Brian,

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it
is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel
eye splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the
halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the
boom has room to be lifted.

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the
boom just forward of the dodger.

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot
like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to
the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance
that yours is a 37?

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Greetings everyone,

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
looking for some guidance.

Regards,

-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida


Virus-free.
www.avast.com

<#m_7834295882684719431_m_-5469201269122569337_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[john sandford via CnC-List]

Hi Brian,

Nice Boat choice.

Good Timing. I have just finished completely rebuilding all my standing rigging 
and running new halyards and boom lines.

Everything now leads forward to the gooseneck, down and aft to the cockpit.

Including;

4 reefs – Each with its own sheave.

Topping lift. (Very useful to have it lead aft.)

Boom vang.

I have also fitted lazy jacks, and while they are on the boom of course, they 
end at a cleat on the forward part of it.

Also fitted a new traveller with control lines in the cockpit, but you weren’t 
asking about those.

 

You are asking about the topping lift.

Mine has an eye at the top, with a SS thimble in it. If you have just bare 
wire, then it sounds like the eye broke.

There is a small pin at the masthead that goes through the eye holds the wire 
up. You need either new wire made up (and for the price it would be my choice) 
or you can get a new eye fitted/made and use the old wire. 

At the lower end, it has a single sheave fitted.

With topping wire pinned at the top, the control rope is dead ended on an eye 
at the back of the boom, on one side. Up through the sheave on the wire, and 
back down to a sheave block on the opposite side of the boom. 

Then it leads either fully forward, or is cleated somewhere along the side of 
the boom.

 

I have many photos of my arrangement, but do not know how to post them.

Maybe if you email me I can send some.

 

Also you should go and visit Wally Bryants Blog. Just google ‘Wally Bryant 
Steel Blue’

 

John

LF38

 

 

From: Brian Davis [mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com] 
Sent: June-01-17 3:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Boom Rigging

 

Greetings everyone,

 

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I have 
the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully educated on 
the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides that 
keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her the SS cable that 
connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and stowed below 
and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other.  Not sure 
how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek block that I need to replace 
on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it the proper and best way, but I 
don't have any good drawings and just looking for some guidance.

 

Regards,

-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida

  
<https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download>
 

 


 
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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Brian, the boat in the picture is not a Landfall. Not sure what model it is. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39
 Original message From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 6/1/17  11:30  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com> Subject: 
Stus-List Boom Rigging 
Greetings everyone,
I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I have 
the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully educated on 
the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides that 
keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her the SS cable that 
connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and stowed below 
and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other.  Not sure 
how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek block that I need to replace 
on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it the proper and best way, but I 
don't have any good drawings and just looking for some guidance.
Regards,

-- 
Brian Davis1980 C Landfall 38"Nina"Southeast Florida





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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Brian

From the picture you do not have a Landfall 38

Is that a different boat in the picture or do you have something a bit newer 
than a 1980 landfall?

Mike
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Davis 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2017 4:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Davis
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

Thanks for the quick reply.  That a pic from the previous owner.  I there is no 
rigged boom vangI assume that's the "pole thing" that supports the 
boomanyhow, there's not one.

Look forward to learning more when you have time.   No rush.

Regards,
Brian

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 2:53 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
From the picture you have a rigid boom vang.

On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Greetings everyone,

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I have 
the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully educated on 
the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides that 
keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her the SS cable that 
connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and stowed below 
and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other.  Not sure 
how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek block that I need to replace 
on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it the proper and best way, but I 
don't have any good drawings and just looking for some guidance.

Regards,

--
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
[https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download]

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--
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
[https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download]
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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thanks for the quick reply.  That a pic from the previous owner.  I there
is no rigged boom vangI assume that's the "pole thing" that supports
the boomanyhow, there's not one.

Look forward to learning more when you have time.   No rush.

Regards,
Brian

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 2:53 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> From the picture you have a rigid boom vang.
>
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Greetings everyone,
>>
>> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
>> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
>> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
>> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
>> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
>> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
>> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
>> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
>> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
>> looking for some guidance.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> --
>> Brian Davis
>> 1980 C Landfall 38
>> "Nina"
>> Southeast Florida
>>
>>
>> 
>>  Virus-free.
>> www.avast.com
>> 
>> <#m_3752047062999743361_m_1407520801177528360_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

>From the picture you have a rigid boom vang.

On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Greetings everyone,
>
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
> looking for some guidance.
>
> Regards,
>
> --
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
> Southeast Florida
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_1407520801177528360_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I don't have a lot of time right now but the "topping lift" attaches to the
aft end of the boom to keep it up.  If you hace a boom vang you may or may
not need/want a topping lift.  The guide ropes are calles "lazy jacks" and
they are not designed to support the boom.

When I have time I'll write more.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Greetings everyone,

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I
have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully
educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old
rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her
the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was
off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire
on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it
the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just
looking for some guidance.

Regards,

-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida


Virus-free.
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