Stus-List C 41 / C 35 / Viking 33

[John Read via CnC-List]

Was surfing Facebook and note there are a larger number of C's listed  for
sale.  Pricing is discouragingly low but oh well.  Here are some samples.
Also saw a recent vintage 34 plus that was gorgeous but can't find it now

 

 
 Marketplace - C 41 1987 | Facebook

 

 
 Marketplace - 1974 - Classic C 35 Mk II | Facebook

 

 
 Marketplace - 1974 Ontario boats Viking | Facebook

 

Look like great deals.  Just sharing the info no personal knowledge

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List c and c 38

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I replaced my tank - which, coincidentally, was about 35 years old – because I 
was looking for a source of persistent diesel smell and discovered some pinhole 
leaks on the bottom of the tank. The tank sat on a wooden platform with no air 
space or cushioning under the tank. So the pinholes were apparently the result 
of corrosion from moisture trapped between tank and wood.

 

When I reinstalled the new tank, I bought some 6”x6”x1/8” rubber squares used 
to make plumbing gaskets (about $.50 each at Lowes) and installed 5 or 6 of 
them under the tank to provide an air gap.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: robert [mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2018 9:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: c and c 38

 

I took my tank out last October on haulouthad a pin hole leak in my 33 year 
old aluminum tankkept the original tank with its fittingshad a machine 
shop weld a new bottom to my tank and at the time had them reduce the 'depth' 
of my tank by one inch.my original tank with the 'fittings specifically the 
infill connector' was a small fraction maybe 3/16" too big to get the tank out 
of the lazarettefinally I just pulled it outafter I noticed I had 
crushed the aluminum 90 deg elbow infill connector by the same 3/16" .no 
big deal...with the repaired now tank one inch smaller, getting it back in was 
a breeze.I went from 20 gals to say 18.5 galsnot a problem for me the 
way I use my boat and ability to refuel.

When I reinstalled my tank, all the 4 hose connections were really tightC 
didn't waste an inch on any hose when they built my boat.the one inch drop 
in tank height compelled me to either get all new longer hoses or loosen 
existing clamps holding the 4 hoses to bulkheadsI loosened the 
clampsnot as neat as before but not as costly and difficult as replacing 
all the hoses.  After I reclamped the tank to its holding station and loosening 
clamps to make the 4 hoses to connect, I then thought about putting one inch 
whatever under the tank to bring it back to its original position and the hose 
connections.but that's now 20/20 for this genius!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

 

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Stus-List c and c 38

[robert via CnC-List]

I took my tank out last October on haulouthad a pin hole leak in my 
33 year old aluminum tankkept the original tank with its 
fittingshad a machine shop weld a new bottom to my tank and at the 
time had them reduce the 'depth' of my tank by one inch.my original 
tank with the 'fittings specifically the infill connector' was a small 
fraction maybe 3/16" too big to get the tank out of the 
lazarettefinally I just pulled it outafter I noticed I had 
crushed the aluminum 90 deg elbow infill connector by the same 3/16" 
.no big deal...with the repaired now tank one inch smaller, getting 
it back in was a breeze.I went from 20 gals to say 18.5 galsnot 
a problem for me the way I use my boat and ability to refuel.


When I reinstalled my tank, all the 4 hose connections were really 
tightC didn't waste an inch on any hose when they built my 
boat.the one inch drop in tank height compelled me to either get all 
new longer hoses or loosen existing clamps holding the 4 hoses to 
bulkheadsI loosened the clampsnot as neat as before but not as 
costly and difficult as replacing all the hoses.  After I reclamped the 
tank to its holding station and loosening clamps to make the 4 hoses to 
connect, I then thought about putting one inch whatever under the tank 
to bring it back to its original position and the hose 
connections.but that's now 20/20 for this genius!


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-01-09 9:03 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


The subject line says 38, but doesn’t say what model.

On my 38 mk2, R the tank was easy. Drain the tank and remove the 
hoses. IIRC, there is a 90 degree elbow in the top of the tank that 
also needs to be removed. From the starboard lazarette, remove the 
straps that hold the tank on the platform on which it sits. Slide the 
tank to starboard so you can reach it through the top of the 
lazarette. Rotate the tank so the former starboard side is now the 
top, and lift it out of the lazarette. There was a generous inch of 
clearance around my old tank when it came out… so I had the new tank 
built a bit larger than the old and increased the volume to 22 gallons 
from 20.


Rick Brass

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bev Parslow via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, January 9, 2018 1:36 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bev Parslow <bparslo...@yahoo.ca>
*Subject:* Stus-List c and c 38

Need to take out the fuel tank. What is the process?



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Re: Stus-List c and c 38

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The subject line says 38, but doesn’t say what model.

 

On my 38 mk2, R the tank was easy. Drain the tank and remove the hoses. IIRC, 
there is a 90 degree elbow in the top of the tank that also needs to be 
removed. From the starboard lazarette, remove the straps that hold the tank on 
the platform on which it sits. Slide the tank to starboard so you can reach it 
through the top of the lazarette. Rotate the tank so the former starboard side 
is now the top, and lift it out of the lazarette. There was a generous inch of 
clearance around my old tank when it came out… so I had the new tank built a 
bit larger than the old and increased the volume to 22 gallons from 20.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2018 1:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow <bparslo...@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Stus-List c and c 38

 

Need to take out the fuel tank. What is the process?

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Stus-List c and c 38

[robert via CnC-List]

If you want to remove the tank as is, first, measure your tank to 
determine where it will be removed from the engine compartment.if it 
coming out through a lazarete, measure the opening from the engine 
compartment to the actual lazarete and then the opening from the 
lazarete to the cockpit.


If you are going to take a sawsall to the tank and simply cut it up 
before you remove it, you don't need exact measurements for these.


After measuring and it will fit out through the openings or cutting it 
up before hand, empty the tank of fuelget a pump and adequate fuel 
storage containers.


Then disconnect all hoses to the tankif diesel, usually 4 
connections, 1. infill  2. vent  3. fuel line to engine  4. backfill 
from engine to tank


Then undo clamps holding tank in place.

Remove tank.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-01-09 2:35 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List wrote:

Need to take out the fuel tank. What is the process?


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Stus-List c and c 38

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

Need to take out the fuel tank. What is the process?___

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Re: Stus-List C a C??

[Lee via CnC-List]

Fred,thanks for trying and happy holidays on the hard.
Lee
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 6, 2016 12:50 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List C a C??


Hi, Lee — unless UK-based Tinley Electronics wants to add me as a dealer, I 
don’t think I’ll be able to get you any better pricing than on their website.  
Sorry!


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



On Nov 5, 2016, at 9:05 PM, Lee via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Fred;I don't want to be protest chair !! On a more serious note,I recall that 
on occaision you have helped list members to buy hard to find electronics.I am 
trying to buy a Tinley Electronics Hornet 4 to NEMA converter for the B 
system on my C some work for a small marine repair/install shop and 
we have not been able to buy this item except at retail. I wonder if you might 
have better success.If so I would be extremely grateful.Thanks in advance !!!
Lee Christiansen
1987 35-3 c/b
On the hard in Blue Point N.Y.




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Re: Stus-List C a C??

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Lee — unless UK-based Tinley Electronics wants to add me as a dealer, I 
don’t think I’ll be able to get you any better pricing than on their website.  
Sorry!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 5, 2016, at 9:05 PM, Lee via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Fred;I don't want to be protest chair !! On a more serious note,I recall that 
> on occaision you have helped list members to buy hard to find electronics.I 
> am trying to buy a Tinley Electronics Hornet 4 to NEMA converter for the B 
> system on my C some work for a small marine repair/install shop and 
> we have not been able to buy this item except at retail. I wonder if you 
> might have better success.If so I would be extremely grateful.Thanks in 
> advance !!!
> Lee Christiansen
> 1987 35-3 c/b
> On the hard in Blue Point N.Y.

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Re: Stus-List C a C??

[Lee via CnC-List]

Fred;I don't want to be protest chair !! On a more serious note,I recall that 
on occaision you have helped list members to buy hard to find electronics.I am 
trying to buy a Tinley Electronics Hornet 4 to NEMA converter for the B 
system on my C some work for a small marine repair/install shop and 
we have not been able to buy this item except at retail. I wonder if you might 
have better success.If so I would be extremely grateful.Thanks in advance !!!
Lee Christiansen
1987 35-3 c/b
On the hard in Blue Point N.Y.
 
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
Sent: Tue, Nov 1, 2016 9:03 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List C a C??


Maybe it would work better for the candidates and their running mates to race 
each other on Lasers or the like…   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



On Oct 31, 2016, at 2:45 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I wish sailing season was as long as the election season.  We’d all be much 
happier..
Chuck Gilchrest
1983 Landfall 35
C Marque
Rob Ball  Design
C Rhode Island built



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Re: Stus-List C a C??

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The protest hearings would be excruciating and both would be banned for rule 69 
infractions..
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 1, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> I am not trying to meddle in foreign elections... (:-)
>  
> But I would suggest O’pen BICs (Laser is to big).
>  
> We have a Harbour Master’s race each year. It is run inside the marina (in 
> the fairways) as a series of match races in a cup system. I think you have to 
> be over a certain age to register (i.e no children allowed). Always a lot of 
> fun (especially to watch).
>  
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2016 09:03
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C a C??
>  
> Maybe it would work better for the candidates and their running mates to race 
> each other on Lasers or the like…   :^)
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>  
>> On Oct 31, 2016, at 2:45 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>  
>> I wish sailing season was as long as the election season.  We’d all be much 
>> happier..
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> 1983 Landfall 35
>> C Marque
>> Rob Ball  Design
>> C Rhode Island built
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List C a C??

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I am not trying to meddle in foreign elections... (:-)

But I would suggest O’pen BICs (Laser is to big).

We have a Harbour Master’s race each year. It is run inside the marina (in the 
fairways) as a series of match races in a cup system. I think you have to be 
over a certain age to register (i.e no children allowed). Always a lot of fun 
(especially to watch).

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2016 09:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List C a C??

Maybe it would work better for the candidates and their running mates to race 
each other on Lasers or the like…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 31, 2016, at 2:45 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I wish sailing season was as long as the election season.  We’d all be much 
happier..
Chuck Gilchrest
1983 Landfall 35
C Marque
Rob Ball  Design
C Rhode Island built

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Re: Stus-List C a C??

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Maybe it would work better for the candidates and their running mates to race 
each other on Lasers or the like…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 31, 2016, at 2:45 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I wish sailing season was as long as the election season.  We’d all be much 
> happier..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 1983 Landfall 35
> C Marque
> Rob Ball  Design
> C Rhode Island built

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Re: Stus-List C a C??

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I wish sailing season was as long as the election season.  We'd all be much
happier..

Chuck Gilchrest

1983 Landfall 35

C Marque

Rob Ball  Design

C Rhode Island built 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Harry
Hallgring via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2016 2:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Harry Hallgring <hhallgr...@icloud.com>
Subject: Stus-List C a C??

 

I can't wait until this embarrassing divisive presidential election season
is over.  it seems to be affecting all of us:)

 

Harry

MIRAGE

1985 Northeast 39

C marque

Rob  Ball design

Bruckmann Yachts

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Re: Stus-List C a C??

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

My point was simply that the 27-5 and 34/37 R models have the highest SA/D of 
the original C  The Fairport Marine and US Watercraft C have higher 
SA/D.  Not saying they are not C  They are very nice boats and in the C 
tradition.  Jerry

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 31, 2016, at 2:59 PM, Harry Hallgring via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I can't wait until this embarrassing divisive presidential election season is 
> over.  it seems to be affecting all of us:)
> 
> Harry
> MIRAGE
> 1985 Northeast 39
> C marque
> Rob  Ball design
> Bruckmann Yachts
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List C a C??

[Harry Hallgring via CnC-List]

I can't wait until this embarrassing divisive presidential election season is 
over.  it seems to be affecting all of us:)





Harry


MIRAGE


1985 Northeast 39


C marque


Rob  Ball design


Bruckmann Yachts
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Re: Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees, Now Stability

[Bmue via CnC-List]

The stability graph has three C 25s listed.
A 25, a mk1 and a mk2

When was the 25 built (as opposed to the mk 1) ?
Bettina


> Am Jun 14, 2016 um 15:15 schrieb Martin Kane via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>:
> 
> That stability graph definitely shows the 29-2 as tender.
> However I could wash the windows on the 25-2 if I had a mind to. I also owned 
> a 33-1 which, when we were racing, would have the person responsible for 
> helping the genoa around when tacking, ankle deep in water if the wind was up 
> and they were slow in getting off the low side. I don’t see the 33-1 on the 
> chart.
> I’m reluctant to argue with a proven methodology, but I find the 29-2 to be 
> both stiff and forgiving compared to the other 2. To me the 29-2  heels to a 
> certain point where the rail is still not buried  and then says you really 
> should do something with the main and if you don’t  it will start to round up 
> rather than continue to heel.  Is it possible that this behaviour is due to 
> the hull shape and this is not captured in the stability test which is 
> static. If so that could explain why the boat is rated as tender, but will 
> only heel to a certain point in real world conditions.
>  
> Martin
> C 29-2
> Recaluating
>  
> From: randy [mailto:spins...@embarqmail.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 3:56 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: 'Martin Kane' <martink...@sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees
>  
> H Martin, suggest you check out the stability diagram:  
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm
>  
>  
> randy   
> Tamanawas
> 29-II
> Hood River, OR
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
> Kane via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 9:58 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Martin Kane <martink...@sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees
>  
> I experienced this occasionally when I had a C 25-2. It would only happen 
> when the sailing hard to weather with the rail buried. If I were going to 
> tighten the hull/deck joint screws I’d start with those closest to the 
> chainplates.
>  
> This is not an issue with the 29-2 as it is a very stiff boat and doesn’t 
> appear possible to bury the rail.
>  
> Martin
> C 29-2 Recalculating
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees, Now Stability

[Martin Kane via CnC-List]

That stability graph definitely shows the 29-2 as tender. 

However I could wash the windows on the 25-2 if I had a mind to. I also
owned a 33-1 which, when we were racing, would have the person responsible
for helping the genoa around when tacking, ankle deep in water if the wind
was up and they were slow in getting off the low side. I don't see the 33-1
on the chart.

I'm reluctant to argue with a proven methodology, but I find the 29-2 to be
both stiff and forgiving compared to the other 2. To me the 29-2  heels to a
certain point where the rail is still not buried  and then says you really
should do something with the main and if you don't  it will start to round
up rather than continue to heel.  Is it possible that this behaviour is due
to the hull shape and this is not captured in the stability test which is
static. If so that could explain why the boat is rated as tender, but will
only heel to a certain point in real world conditions.

 

Martin 

C 29-2 

Recaluating

 

From: randy [mailto:spins...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 3:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 'Martin Kane' <martink...@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees

 

H Martin, suggest you check out the stability diagram:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm

 

 

randy

Tamanawas

29-II

Hood River, OR

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
Kane via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Martin Kane <martink...@sympatico.ca <mailto:martink...@sympatico.ca> >
Subject: Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees

 

I experienced this occasionally when I had a C 25-2. It would only happen
when the sailing hard to weather with the rail buried. If I were going to
tighten the hull/deck joint screws I'd start with those closest to the
chainplates.

 

This is not an issue with the 29-2 as it is a very stiff boat and doesn't
appear possible to bury the rail.

 

Martin 

C 29-2 Recalculating

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C and C 25-25, now burying the rail

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Agree with Randy...I had both a 25-2 and a 29-2; I rarely buried the rail on 
the 25 stuck it routinely on the 29I now have a 37 and look forward to 
getting the rail wet...yahoo!

 


Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: randy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: randy <spins...@embarqmail.com>; 'Martin Kane' <martink...@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Tue, Jun 14, 2016 3:57 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees



H Martin, suggest you check out the stability diagram:  
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm
 
 
randy
Tamanawas
29-II
Hood River, OR
 
 
 


 
 

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Re: Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

That graph confirms my experience on our 30-2. We flatten and reef early.

KD

On Tue, Jun 14, 2016 at 12:56 PM randy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> H Martin, suggest you check out the stability diagram:
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm
>
>
>
>
>
> randy
>
> Tamanawas
>
> 29-II
>
> Hood River, OR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Martin
> Kane via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 14, 2016 9:58 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Martin Kane <martink...@sympatico.ca>
> *Subject:* Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees
>
>
>
> I experienced this occasionally when I had a C 25-2. It would only
> happen when the sailing hard to weather with the rail buried. If I were
> going to tighten the hull/deck joint screws I’d start with those closest to
> the chainplates.
>
>
>
> This is not an issue with the 29-2 as it is a very stiff boat and doesn’t
> appear possible to bury the rail.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> C 29-2 Recalculating
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees

[randy via CnC-List]

H Martin, suggest you check out the stability diagram:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm

 

 

randy

Tamanawas

29-II

Hood River, OR

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
Kane via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin Kane <martink...@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees

 

I experienced this occasionally when I had a C 25-2. It would only happen
when the sailing hard to weather with the rail buried. If I were going to
tighten the hull/deck joint screws I'd start with those closest to the
chainplates.

 

This is not an issue with the 29-2 as it is a very stiff boat and doesn't
appear possible to bury the rail.

 

Martin 

C 29-2 Recalculating

 

 

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Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees

[Martin Kane via CnC-List]

I experienced this occasionally when I had a C 25-2. It would only happen
when the sailing hard to weather with the rail buried. If I were going to
tighten the hull/deck joint screws I'd start with those closest to the
chainplates.

 

This is not an issue with the 29-2 as it is a very stiff boat and doesn't
appear possible to bury the rail.

 

Martin 

C 29-2 Recalculating

 

 

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Stus-List C and C 25 water in lockers under settees

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Hi Mark 
Did you figure out where the water is coming from?
We seem to be having exactly the same problem. During the deck restore the 
seeps we used to experience occasionally during rainstorms were fixed. Now we 
sometimes find water in the settee lockers during/after sailing. it stays there 
as there is no connection to the bilge (which has occasionally some water in it 
but nothing to worry about.)
I crawled around inside the boat trying to find any seeps while underway and 
found nothing along rails. 

Any ideas?
 Is there a schematic available that shows how the settee lockers are connected 
to the rest of the boat?
 Did you drill drainage holes so the water can drain into the bilge?

Bettina
C 25 'Savannah'

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 3:27 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
> wrote: Hello everyone, I 
have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees. When it rains no 
water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small amount of 
water in each bin. After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go for a sail. 
What I'm thinking is there is a leak in the seal in between the topsides and 
the hull seam, and sea spray forces its way into the hull on the down wind 
side. I was thinking that I need to tighten the bolts along the toe rail that 
hold the topsides to the hull. I've read online that you hold the screw steady 
on top and turn the bolt underneath. I believe there is butyl tape in between 
the hull and the topsides. I was thinking of giving each bolt a 1/4 turn. Is my 
thinking on this correct? Thanks a lot for your help. 

 Mark McMenamy C 25 "

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Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap.

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

If the 29 is like the 30, then the whole top of the mast (aluminum casting) 
comes off - it rests on the top of the mast, but the casting goes down inside 
of the mast. The sheaves are in the top piece, and you must take it off to get 
the sheave axles out. Mine is secured with about 8 stainless screws, evenly 
spaced around the casting. It is a tight fit, it took some prying with small 
pry bars to get it out.

I agree - I think the 29 is keel stepped and if so, keeping the lowers in place 
and using the pole topping lift can hold the mast in place while you work on 
the top. But, your crane must hold you up there without any help from halyards 
and such, as they are all attached to or through the top casting.

Gary


  - Original Message - 
  From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
  To: Bev Parslow ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2014 10:08 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap.


  On the 35-3, you would not have to affect the standing rigging to change a 
sheave.  It should be possible from a bosun's chair (at the crane or on other 
halyards).  I would suggest going up to check what it looks like before 
gathering the right tools and planning the job.  On the 35-3, the sheaves are 
rigged similar to those on the boom.  There is a stainless cover over one end 
of the sheave axle.  When that is removed, you should be able to push the axle 
out and remove the sheave (holding it as others suggested).  Yours may be 
different, but it may not be necessary to remove the mast cap.


  Tim
  Mojito
  35-3 Branford, CT

  On Sep 21, 2014, at 7:14 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


We have a mast tower at the club. The main sheave needs to be replaced. Can 
we take off the cap at the mast tower and avoid hauling out the mast for the 
replacement?
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Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I would just go ahead and pay to un-step the mast.

 I was all worried about that before doing it last spring.  It took 10
 minutes of taping the rod threads (To mark the turnbuckle position
 adjustment),   10 minutes for 'Stumpy' to pick it up with the travel lift
 and set it down on saw horses (So smooth, a complete non-issue) , and 85
 bucks for the round trip.

 Best 85 bucks I ever spent.  There are so many other things you can fix,
 clean, lube, inspect, replace, and improve while you're at it..

 -Francois
 1990 34+ Take Five
 Lake Lanier, Georgia___
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Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

You got a bargain!  Cost me $400 to unstep the mast of my 35, and $800 for
my 28 in Annapolis!

Joel

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 9:24 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I would just go ahead and pay to un-step the mast.

I was all worried about that before doing it last spring.  It took 10
minutes of taping the rod threads (To mark the turnbuckle position
adjustment),   10 minutes for 'Stumpy' to pick it up with the travel lift
and set it down on saw horses (So smooth, a complete non-issue) , and 85
bucks for the round trip.

Best 85 bucks I ever spent.  There are so many other things you can
fix, clean, lube, inspect, replace, and improve while you're at it..

-Francois
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, Georgia


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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

FWIW,

We sometimes hire a crane tow truck to unstep masts or to lift out an
engine.  Much cheaper than a boatyard.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 8:27 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 You got a bargain!  Cost me $400 to unstep the mast of my 35, and $800 for
 my 28 in Annapolis!

 Joel

 On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 9:24 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I would just go ahead and pay to un-step the mast.

I was all worried about that before doing it last spring.  It took 10
minutes of taping the rod threads (To mark the turnbuckle position
adjustment),   10 minutes for 'Stumpy' to pick it up with the travel lift
and set it down on saw horses (So smooth, a complete non-issue) , and 85
bucks for the round trip.

Best 85 bucks I ever spent.  There are so many other things you can
fix, clean, lube, inspect, replace, and improve while you're at it..

-Francois
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, Georgia


 ___
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 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

We pay about $200 to unstep and $300 for the step at my marina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 9:27 AM
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap

 

You got a bargain!  Cost me $400 to unstep the mast of my 35, and $800 for my 
28 in Annapolis!

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 9:24 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I would just go ahead and pay to un-step the mast.  

I was all worried about that before doing it last spring.  It took 10 minutes 
of taping the rod threads (To mark the turnbuckle position adjustment),   10 
minutes for 'Stumpy' to pick it up with the travel lift and set it down on saw 
horses (So smooth, a complete non-issue) , and 85 bucks for the round trip.  

Best 85 bucks I ever spent.  There are so many other things you can fix, clean, 
lube, inspect, replace, and improve while you're at it.. 

-Francois
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, Georgia


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Ouch! The club here has two smaller fixed cranes and a pole cat - a used 
utility truck with a
boom arm. The smallest fixed crane will do masts easily up to 30 - 32' boats. 
All are available
for free with volunteers operating the pole cat.

For haul out the club hires in two large cranes. So we get the masts unstepped 
and stored,
the cradles brought in by forklift and laid out, the boats hauled, stored over 
the winter, the boats launched,
the masts stepped and cradles stored for $900 on a 30' boat.

It is self service for the mast unstepping / stepping and layout on the mast 
racks, but there always
is lots of people to help.


I have removed and serviced the original sheaves on my 30-1 twice. I cleaned 
them up when I went
from wire to rope and replaced the Oilite bearings, then replaced the Oilite 
bearings again two years
later. The bearings were crushing a bit and the play allowed some sideways 
misalignment, ending
up in scoring the sides of the sheave and the mast casting. Also lots of 
friction at high loads.

Last year I replaced the two jib sheaves with Acetyl ( Acetal - Delrin ). I 
found ISOMAT had the correct
size and were the two piece design I wanted. So a smaller donut goes around 
the SS shaft. I purchased
that undersized and drilled it out to be a press fit on the shaft. The Sheave 
goes over the donut and
uses the increased diameter as a plain bearing. The Acetyl is very hard, in 
fact rated for use with wire.
So far this year, including numerous sail changes at over 20 kts in the LO300, 
the sheaves have
worked very well. Lighter weight, no grease required.

Will check them when I pull the mast next month.


Michael Brown
Windburn
CC 30-1



Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 09:45:52 -0400 
From: Burt Stratton bstrat...@falconnect.com 
To: 'Joel Aronson' joel.aron...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap 
Message-ID: 02b801cfd66b$874f4e40$95edeac0$@falconnect.com 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 
 
We pay about $200 to unstep and $300 for the step at my marina 
 
  
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 9:27 AM 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap 
 
  
 
You got a bargain!  Cost me $400 to unstep the mast of my 35, and $800 for my 
28 in Annapolis! 
 
  
 
Joel 
 
  
 
On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 9:24 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: 
 
I would just go ahead and pay to un-step the mast.   
 
I was all worried about that before doing it last spring.  It took 10 minutes 
of taping the rod threads (To mark the turnbuckle position adjustment),   10 
minutes for 'Stumpy' to pick it up with the travel lift and set it down on saw 
horses (So smooth, a complete non-issue) , and 85 bucks for the round trip.   
 
Best 85 bucks I ever spent.  There are so many other things you can fix, clean, 
lube, inspect, replace, and improve while you're at it..  
 
-Francois 
1990 34+ Take Five 
Lake Lanier, Georgia 
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Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Apparently it pays to belong to a good Club.

We do, generally, the same. 

Up to 5000 t (~1 lb.) boat -  you can do it for free using one of the two 
fixed cranes. Of course, you have to have means to move the boat from under the 
crane afterwards. There are service providers that would do a complete haul out 
(or launch), including mast unstepping (stepping), for about under $300.

Or the Club can do it for you, when we hire a couple of commercial cranes and 
we do about 100 boats in one shot. I think the fee is ~$150 per boat. There is 
a lot of volunteers involved, as well, but that does not appear on the invoice. 
Then you do the mast yourself using a mast crane (again for free, or rather , 
included in the membership fees already).

We do it twice a year, so, I guess, we have to be reasonably well organised.

Marek (in Ottawa)

From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap

Ouch! The club here has two smaller fixed cranes and a pole cat - a used 
utility truck with a
boom arm. The smallest fixed crane will do masts easily up to 30 - 32' boats. 
All are available
for free with volunteers operating the pole cat.

For haul out the club hires in two large cranes. So we get the masts unstepped 
and stored,
the cradles brought in by forklift and laid out, the boats hauled, stored over 
the winter, the boats launched,
the masts stepped and cradles stored for $900 on a 30' boat.

It is self service for the mast unstepping / stepping and layout on the mast 
racks, but there always
is lots of people to help.

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Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap.

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

We have a mast tower at the club. The main sheave needs to be replaced. Can we 
take off the cap at the mast tower and avoid hauling out the mast for the 
replacement?___
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Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap.

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Is the 29 keel stepped?  If so, I would say yes with the lowers holding 
everything in place in calm conditions for a few hours.

John

On Sep 21, 2014, at 7:14 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 We have a mast tower at the club. The main sheave needs to be replaced. Can 
 we take off the cap at the mast tower and avoid hauling out the mast for the 
 replacement?
 ___
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 at:
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Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap.

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

On the 35-3, you would not have to affect the standing rigging to change a 
sheave.  It should be possible from a bosun's chair (at the crane or on other 
halyards).  I would suggest going up to check what it looks like before 
gathering the right tools and planning the job.  On the 35-3, the sheaves are 
rigged similar to those on the boom.  There is a stainless cover over one end 
of the sheave axle.  When that is removed, you should be able to push the axle 
out and remove the sheave (holding it as others suggested).  Yours may be 
different, but it may not be necessary to remove the mast cap.

Tim
Mojito
35-3 Branford, CT

 On Sep 21, 2014, at 7:14 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 We have a mast tower at the club. The main sheave needs to be replaced. Can 
 we take off the cap at the mast tower and avoid hauling out the mast for the 
 replacement?
 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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 at:
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Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap.

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎On my 26 the mast cap comes off as one unit with the main and 2 jib halyard sheaves all together. It's then quite easy to do the sheaves at the workbench.  sam :-) From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-ListSent: Sunday, September 21, 2014 8:08 PMTo: Bev Parslow; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Tim GoodyearSubject: Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap.On the 35-3, you would not have to affect the standing rigging to change a sheave. It should be possible from a bosun's chair (at the crane or on other halyards). I would suggest going up to check what it looks like before gathering the right tools and planning the job. On the 35-3, the sheaves are rigged similar to those on the boom. There is a stainless cover over one end of the sheave axle. When that is removed, you should be able to push the axle out and remove the sheave (holding it as others suggested). Yours may be different, but it may not be necessary to remove the mast cap.TimMojito35-3 Branford, CTOn Sep 21, 2014, at 7:14 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:We have a mast tower at the club. The main sheave needs to be replaced. Can we take off the cap at the mast tower and avoid hauling out the mast for the replacement?___This List is provided by the CC Photo AlbumEmail address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
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Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap.

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bev,

Removing the masthead crane (the thing you're calling a cap) will 
require dropping the forestay  backstay, for most older rigs. This 
is an unusual practice if servicing at a mast tower. If you have a 
roller furling jib then it's definitely not worth the bother.


Normally you secure the sheave and drive out the axle, as others have 
mentioned. The best way to secure the sheave... and it is very 
important to secure he sheave, is to attach a length of PVC tape 
(commonly called electricians tape) to some small stuff (string) 
and lay the tape into the sheave. Rotate sheave to retrieve the tape 
and continue to pull the string through. When you have the string 
end, hitch it to the other part then tighten down to lasso the 
sheave. This way it is captured and will not fall very far down into 
the mast if you lose control of it.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

There comes a time in a man's life when he hears the call of the sea.
If the man has a brain in his head, he will hang up the phone 
immediately. -- Dave Barry



At 04:14 PM 21/09/2014, you wrote:
We have a mast tower at the club. The main sheave needs to be 
replaced. Can we take off the cap at the mast tower and avoid 
hauling out the mast for the replacement?

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Stus-List C and C 29 mk 2 spinnaker

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

You might be interested in the CC 29 Owners Association group on Facebook


https://www.facebook.com/groups/cnc29members/

Make sure you check out the tabs across the top for photos 29's with chutes,
information including a boat list .

Best regards,
Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
CC 29-2 Flying Colours
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
Pickering, ON
(416) 919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com

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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 10:27:57 -0400
From: Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
To: Pbbother pbbot...@gmail.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 29-2 Spinnaker
Message-ID: CC5FE923206545DD87257790D6B3431D@GaryPC
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=original

It is no more of a hassle to fly a symmetrical chute on a 29 than it is on
the J-24 (I have a 30-1 that I race every now and then and race on a J-24
each week). It is just bigger. You will probably need an additional person
(we use 5 on the 30 and 4 on the 24). An adjustable spin track on the mast
would be useful. The inner stay can be made to be easily disconnected.

If the boat doesn't have a pole, track, extra winches, then you could
consider one of those deck mounted extendable poles and fly an asymmetrical
chute.

It is interestingthe PHRF for a 29 is most likely higher numerically
than the J-24. Around here, the 24 is 171 and a 29 is around 180.

But, it is a lot more cruising friendly and powerful.

Gary
30-1, J-24 on Friday, J-80 on Wednesday

- Original Message -
From: Pbbother via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 10:10 AM
Subject: Stus-List CC 29-2 Spinnaker


I am considering buying a CC 29-2 (1983) and would like to know how/if a 
symmetrical spinnaker would work on these boats. I am looking at a boat 
nearby, but it only has a cruising asymmetrical spinnaker.  My current boat

is a J/24 and I am looking for something a little more comfortable but also

performance oriented. Since I have a crew for racing on the J/24, we would 
also want to set a spinnaker on the CC.  The problem is the baby/inner 
stay that bisects the fore deck. Yes, I understand that we could disconnect

it for the downwind leg, but that seems to be added complexity that I would

rather avoid. The concern that I have is that the only photo of a 
symmetrical spinnaker I can find on the WEB is the original sales brochure.

So, I am thinking its just a big hassle to fly a symmetrical on these 
boats. Any thoughts?
 -Ken


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