Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

There is a lot of interior teak on your 35MKII. The interior finish was a
large part of my decision nearly 20 years ago to buy a MKII and not a MKI
35. My interior teak gets lemon oil once a year if I remember and feel
energetic. Alianna is a 1974 model so 47 years old this year and looking
great. I will never coat it with varnish or urethane. I did update the
sliding cabinet closures with dark plexi and more modern looking handles.
One of my favourite pass times is sitting at the nav table enjoying music
and refreshments on the mooring and admiring the interior marine carpentry

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 1:27 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting thread, and perhaps someday I will get to the point where I
> can attend to our teak interior instead of fixing other stuff! I have done
> a small amount of testing with teak oil (some marine brand I was given),
> but the biggest problem I have is that someone in the past decided to apply
> varnish or urethane to only certain parts of the interior, while others
> look like original oil. I am afraid to attempt stripping the varnish and
> make a mess, but I am also loathe to apply more varnish... So I just leave
> it. In dim light it looks ok, but the shiny sections annoy me...
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 9:02 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Danny,
>> Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never said.
>>
>> C
>>
>> On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:
>>
>>
>> My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.
>> When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained
>> and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to
>> work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a
>> beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and
>> coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that
>> just needs a quick wax to maintain.
>>
>> After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the
>> idiots took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain
>> that way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water
>> beading off!
>>
>> I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much
>> easier to apply than a proper varnish job.
>>
>> Danny
>> T40 Rum Runner IV
>> Mattapoisett, MA
>> Currently; Barrington, RI
>>
>> On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Danny via CnC-List]

Well, if you keep up with the Watco wax, you should never have to do it again.   I did mine 5 years ago and it still looks great! The original was 30 years old and not well cared for and only the areas near sinks, showers, leaking ports and the companion way were completely dry.   They came back nicely though.I took all the doors, drawers and removable pieces home the first winter and did them in the garage.  I was doing a couple of pieces a couple nights a week after work and got them all refinished.   All the bulkheads and cabinetry I finished up over one or two weekends.   It was a learning curve.  I tried doing it by hand sanding with a block at first.  Had i started with the palm sander, it would have gone much smoother and faster. DannyOn Mar 28, 2021 6:33 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  wrote:
Hang your club burgee where the clock use to be.

Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol, RI 

On 3/28/2021 1:24 PM, Matthew via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
All this talk about interior teak reminds
  me of question I have for the group.  I removed a clock from
  an interior wall, and the teak ply that was behind the clock
  is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume it’s
  from the wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks
  for this issue?
 
Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom
  
  
  
  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


  
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Hang your club burgee where the clock use to be.

Don Kern
/Fireball, /C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 3/28/2021 1:24 PM, Matthew via CnC-List wrote:


All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for 
the group.  I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply 
that was behind the clock is a different shade than the rest of the 
wall.  I assume it’s from the wood not getting any light for 40 
years.  Any tricks for this issue?


Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Thanks Danny,

How often do you need to do this "three part treatment"? 

Thanks again.
Chuck S  

> On 03/28/2021 12:58 PM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> Hey Charles, 
> I was taking about the "Watco Danish finish"
>  
> There are basically 3 steps.  Use 320 grit wet/ dry sand paper to work 
> the Watco Danish finish into the wood, i recommend a vibrating palm sander 
> for this.   The key is to get some wood dust worked up and rub the whole 
> surface with the sander, let sit 30 minutes and wipe it down.  Do that again 
> with 400 grit,  wipe it all down again.  Then rub it all down with the Watco 
> wax, wipe it down again and you're done. 
>  
> Danny
> 
> On Mar 28, 2021 12:27 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > Interesting thread, and perhaps someday I will get to the 
> point where I can attend to our teak interior instead of fixing other stuff! 
> I have done a small amount of testing with teak oil (some marine brand I was 
> given), but the biggest problem I have is that someone in the past decided to 
> apply varnish or urethane to only certain parts of the interior, while others 
> look like original oil. I am afraid to attempt stripping the varnish and make 
> a mess, but I am also loathe to apply more varnish... So I just leave it. In 
> dim light it looks ok, but the shiny sections annoy me...
> > 
> > --
> > Shawn Wright
> > shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com
> > S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> > https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> > 
> > On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 9:02 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > Hi Danny,
> > > Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never 
> > > said.
> > >  
> > > C
> > > 
> > > > > > > On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via 
> > > CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > > My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish 
> > > > from the factory.  When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had 
> > > > never been maintained and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little 
> > > > research and went to work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When 
> > > > i was done, i had a beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work 
> > > > than stripping and coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice 
> > > > water repellent finish that just needs a quick wax to maintain.   
> > > >  
> > > > After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint 
> > > > shed and the idiots took it back out with all the ports open and left 
> > > > it in a heavy rain that way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the 
> > > > finish intact and water beading off! 
> > > >  
> > > > I'm sold on this system as better protection that just 
> > > > oil and much easier to apply than a proper varnish job. 
> > > >  
> > > > Danny
> > > > T40 Rum Runner IV
> > > > Mattapoisett, MA
> > > > Currently; Barrington, RI
> > > > 
> > > > On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List < 
> > > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote
> > > > 
> > > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that 
> > > > contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want 
> > > > to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > > >  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > > 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Dean McNeill via CnC-List]

_
Matt,

My PO (or maybe the PPO) was similarly sloppy when applying Cetol throughout 
exterior and interior of boat. I tried a few things and the ABSOLUTE Best is 
gently scraping with the dull bottle opener end of my Swiss Army knife. So, I 
bet a big rounded-over flat-head screwdriver would wor kwell too. It beats any 
solvent I’ve tried. I just gently scape (or push) of Cetol off the gelcoat— 
works beautifully.Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

How about screwing some Interclub participation plaques over it.

Bill

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021, 1:59 PM Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> On a more serious note, the problem is that the PO put the clock in an odd
> location, near the edge of the bulkhead up near the ceiling (or whatever we
> decided to call it).  Placing something in the same location won’t look
> right (like the old clock).  Thus my dilemma.
>
>
>
> *From:* Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 28, 2021 1:30 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Tom Buscaglia 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?
>
>
>
> Get a new clock.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
>
> S/V Alera
>
> 1990 C 37+/40
>
> Vashon WA
>
> P 206.463.9200
>
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2021, at 10:25 AM, Matthew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the
> group.  I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was
> behind the clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume
> it’s from the wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this
> issue?
>
>
>
> Matt Wolford
>
> C 42 Custom
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

It has been three or four already.

 

From: T Sutton via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: T Sutton 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

 

Or wait a few years.

 

Tom S

 

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

On a more serious note, the problem is that the PO put the clock in an odd 
location, near the edge of the bulkhead up near the ceiling (or whatever we 
decided to call it).  Placing something in the same location won’t look right 
(like the old clock).  Thus my dilemma.

 

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 1:30 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

 

Get a new clock.

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 





On Mar 28, 2021, at 10:25 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the group.  
I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was behind the 
clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume it’s from the 
wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this issue?

 

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[T Sutton via CnC-List]

Or wait a few years.

Tom S

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 11:30 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

Get a new clock.


Tom Buscaglia 
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660



  On Mar 28, 2021, at 10:25 AM, Matthew via CnC-List  
wrote:


   
  All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the 
group.  I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was 
behind the clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume it’s 
from the wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this issue?

   

  Matt Wolford

  C 42 Custom
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

That’s the problem, I did get a new clock and put it somewhere else (better).

 

Maybe a nice picture.

 

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 1:30 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

 

Get a new clock.

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 





On Mar 28, 2021, at 10:25 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the group.  
I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was behind the 
clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume it’s from the 
wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this issue?

 

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Get a new clock.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Mar 28, 2021, at 10:25 AM, Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the 
> group.  I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was 
> behind the clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume 
> it’s from the wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this 
> issue?
>  
> Matt Wolford
> C 42 Custom
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for the group.  
I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply that was behind the 
clock is a different shade than the rest of the wall.  I assume it’s from the 
wood not getting any light for 40 years.  Any tricks for this issue?

 

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Gordon Reid via CnC-List]

Greetings:
Following this discussion on interior teak.
Someone before my ownership put a shiny surface on all my interior teak,
but they left *lots* on the surrounding headliner and other fiberglass
surfaces.  As if they were blind.  Maybe they used a cloth to apply.Seems
to be more matt finish than shiny varnish.I have a C and C 30 Mk2, 1988.
This was some years ago
Question: Whatever they used, which I don't know, is there any product that
would remove the overspill from the the fiberglass, after all these years.

On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 5:37 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Interesting do you have a picture of your interior rob
> On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 8:18 PM Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Another vote for Old English lemon oil. IMO teak is not intended to be
>> urethaned or any of the other. Just sets you up for more maintenance,
>> stripping, scraping, etc, which is contrary to using teak in the first
>> place.  Oil 2x each summer and looks like new. Wipe off excess and no dirt
>> problems.
>>
>> Jeff Laman
>> 1981 C
>> Harmony
>>
>> Get Outlook for Android
>>
>> Get Outlook for Android 
>>
>> --
>> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:50:53 PM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* Robert Abbott 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Leaving interior Teak natural?
>>
>> Dean
>> My 32 came with the C advertised 'teak package'...teak everywhere...the
>> V-birth, quarterberth, bulkheads, doors, head, dinette table teak veneer (I
>> think), etc.
>>
>> It is now 36 years old and has only ever been oiled. It still looks like
>> new.  I have tried the 'designer oils' from yacht shops but prefer the
>> stuff I buy at the grocery store Old English Lemon Oil
>>
>> Now it means I oil the teak 2 maybe 3 times a year but isn't that why I
>> own a 1984 C 32.
>>
>> old english oil lemon - Bing
>> 
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>> On 2021-03-27 8:19 p.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak 
>> interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully 
>> removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m 
>> wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of 
>> oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating any 
>> exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or 
>> something else?
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>>   Thanks - Stu
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

I think a video seminar should be made

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 1:00 PM Danny via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hey Charles,
> I was taking about the "Watco Danish finish"
>
> There are basically 3 steps.  Use 320 grit wet/ dry sand paper to work the
> Watco Danish finish into the wood, i recommend a vibrating palm sander for
> this.   The key is to get some wood dust worked up and rub the whole
> surface with the sander, let sit 30 minutes and wipe it down.  Do that
> again with 400 grit,  wipe it all down again.  Then rub it all down with
> the Watco wax, wipe it down again and you're done.
>
> Danny
>
> On Mar 28, 2021 12:27 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Interesting thread, and perhaps someday I will get to the point where I
> can attend to our teak interior instead of fixing other stuff! I have done
> a small amount of testing with teak oil (some marine brand I was given),
> but the biggest problem I have is that someone in the past decided to apply
> varnish or urethane to only certain parts of the interior, while others
> look like original oil. I am afraid to attempt stripping the varnish and
> make a mess, but I am also loathe to apply more varnish... So I just leave
> it. In dim light it looks ok, but the shiny sections annoy me...
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 9:02 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Danny,
> Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never said.
>
> C
>
> On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.
> When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained
> and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to
> work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a
> beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and
> coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that
> just needs a quick wax to maintain.
>
> After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the idiots
> took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain that
> way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water
> beading off!
>
> I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much easier
> to apply than a proper varnish job.
>
> Danny
> T40 Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
> Currently; Barrington, RI
>
> On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Danny via CnC-List]

Hey Charles, I was taking about the "Watco Danish finish"There are basically 3 steps.  Use 320 grit wet/ dry sand paper to work the Watco Danish finish into the wood, i recommend a vibrating palm sander for this.   The key is to get some wood dust worked up and rub the whole surface with the sander, let sit 30 minutes and wipe it down.  Do that again with 400 grit,  wipe it all down again.  Then rub it all down with the Watco wax, wipe it down again and you're done. DannyOn Mar 28, 2021 12:27 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote:Interesting thread, and perhaps someday I will get to the point where I can attend to our teak interior instead of fixing other stuff! I have done a small amount of testing with teak oil (some marine brand I was given), but the biggest problem I have is that someone in the past decided to apply varnish or urethane to only certain parts of the interior, while others look like original oil. I am afraid to attempt stripping the varnish and make a mess, but I am also loathe to apply more varnish... So I just leave it. In dim light it looks ok, but the shiny sections annoy me...--Shawn Wrightshawngwright@gmail.comS/V Callisto, 1974 C 35https://www.facebook.com/SVCallistoOn Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 9:02 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  wrote:

  
   
 
 
  
   Hi Danny,
   
  
   Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never said.
   
  
    
   
  
   C
   
   
   
On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:

   
 

   
 

   
My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.  When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that just needs a quick wax to maintain.    

  
 

 After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the idiots took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain that way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water beading off! 
 

  
 

 I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much easier to apply than a proper varnish job. 
 

  
 

 Danny
 

 T40 Rum Runner IV
 

 Mattapoisett, MA
 

 Currently; Barrington, RI
 

   
 

 On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  wrote
 

   
 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Interesting thread, and perhaps someday I will get to the point where I can
attend to our teak interior instead of fixing other stuff! I have done a
small amount of testing with teak oil (some marine brand I was given), but
the biggest problem I have is that someone in the past decided to apply
varnish or urethane to only certain parts of the interior, while others
look like original oil. I am afraid to attempt stripping the varnish and
make a mess, but I am also loathe to apply more varnish... So I just leave
it. In dim light it looks ok, but the shiny sections annoy me...

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 9:02 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Danny,
> Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never said.
>
> C
>
> On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.
> When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained
> and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to
> work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a
> beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and
> coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that
> just needs a quick wax to maintain.
>
> After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the idiots
> took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain that
> way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water
> beading off!
>
> I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much easier
> to apply than a proper varnish job.
>
> Danny
> T40 Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
> Currently; Barrington, RI
>
> On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi Danny,
Interesting story.  What system are you sold on?  You never said.

C

> On 03/28/2021 8:22 AM Danny via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.  
> When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained and 
> was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to work.  I'm 
> amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a beautiful had 
> rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and coating 8 times with 
> varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that just needs a quick wax 
> to maintain.   
>  
> After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the 
> idiots took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain 
> that way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water 
> beading off! 
>  
> I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much 
> easier to apply than a proper varnish job. 
>  
> Danny
> T40 Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
> Currently; Barrington, RI
> 
> On Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have lots of info for you to consider.  However, I am by no means a
professional.

I found that without exception "lemon oils" are mineral oil with added
color and scent.  Double check me.  I use the SDS to see and compare the
"ingredients" in lots of products.  Pure mineral oil is what is recommended
for wooden cutting boards though some people recommend thickening it with
beeswax to make a cream or paste that will last through washing a little
better.  In their 100% pure form, both mineral oil and beeswax are "food
safe".  Neither mineral oil or bees wax will ever "dry".  They do not
naturally give off VOCs and will only ever simply be absorbed, or washed
away.  Warmer temps encourage more and faster absorption.  Some people have
reported mildew as a result of using "lemon oil".  I have not experienced
this at all and would suggest that the primary cause of the mildew is high
moisture.  You will most likely find that most "teak oils" are basically a
mineral oil though some may have additional UV stabilizers and blockers.
Teak oils are also often colored brown instead of yellow but this is
aesthetic more than anything.

Linseed oil is a common wood finishing product and comes in 2 variations.
Boiled and raw.  Similar to mineral oil, raw linseed has no (or low) VOCs
and will never dry thought I believe it is slightly thinner than mineral
oil and will get better absorption.  As I understand it raw linseed and
flaxseed oil are basically the same thing though unlike pure mineral oil
and supermarket flaxseed oil, linseed oil should not be consumed.  Probably
not an issue, but it is worth keeping in mind should you be looking for a
product to condition your cutting boards.  I use raw linseed thickened with
bees wax as a natural preservative on my bee hives.  It definitely seems to
make a difference over unprotected wood.

I seem to recall that boiled linseed oil is not linseed oil at all but
rather a chemical concoction that actually has VOCs and ultimately dries.
As a single application it will go on similar to raw linseed or mineral
oil.  It will quickly absorb like raw linseed but has the advantage of
ultimately giving off those VOCs and drying.  A second application can
result in a slight shiny or satin finish as the second layer is now
building up on the dry layer below instead of soaking in.  A third
application can give a semi-gloss finish.

Now on to Danish oil.  Danish oil is akin to a very very thin colored
polyurethane .  It can be applied with a rag in the same manner as the
above mentioned products.  It comes in a variety of colors.  It will dry.
I like to use Danish oil on fresh, raw, neglected, or weathered decorative
interior wood as a base coat.  I find that applying it with a foam brush
leaves enough to soak in.  It is thin enough that it will soak in quite
well.  While it is wet you can keep applying more to get better and better
penetration.  Per the directions you would come back a few hours after
application to wipe away any extra and then allow to dry thoroughly (24
hours-ish).  When wiped away it leaves a natural finish that will be
resistant to being washed away.  Since it comes in various colors you can
also add back some youthfulness to greyed out wood as well as more closely
match existing wood.  This product is also a good fit for traction surfaces
and high moisture surfaces such as the stairs and the shower bench.  Once
the base is established, maintaining it with an oil product from above is
much less involved and lasts longer.  Just keep in mind that if the oil
product does not dry then it will impact slip resistance.

Hope this adds some options for you.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Mar 27, 2021, 19:19 Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak
> interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully
> removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m
> wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of
> oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating
> any exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or
> something else?Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the
> list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to
> the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Ours has natural teak and only been oiled.  Use old English lemon oil buy at 
local grocery / hardware store.  Wipe on, let sit for a bit and wipe off.  Once 
a year in early spring before cover comes off.  Nice project and looks great!!

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Danny via CnC-List]

My current boat was finished with Watco Danish finish from the factory.  When i bought her at 30 years old, it seemed it had never been maintained and was looking kind of dry.  So, i did a little research and went to work.  I'm amazed at how well it came back.  When i was done, i had a beautiful had rubbed finish.  It was way less work than stripping and coating 8 times with varnish and it left a nice water repellent finish that just needs a quick wax to maintain.   After refinishing the teak, the boat went into a paint shed and the idiots took it back out with all the ports open and left it in a heavy rain that way.  I freaked until i got below and saw the finish intact and water beading off! I'm sold on this system as better protection that just oil and much easier to apply than a proper varnish job. DannyT40 Rum Runner IVMattapoisett, MACurrently; Barrington, RIOn Mar 28, 2021 12:24 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  wrote:We use Wax and Feed. https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Products-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner/dp/B001BKQYGWTom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660On Mar 27, 2021, at 6:15 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List  wrote:








I would agree with the vote for oil over polyurethane or varnish and certainly Cetol.  We used Watco teak oil for a while but did not like the smell, though it did give good results. For the last several years we have been using a product called Howard Feed
 n Wax that is beeswax and orange oil.  We typically get a season out of it with no dirt issues and a pleasant orange smell.  I just ordered another bottle on Amazon and would recommend it.




Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI




Get Outlook for iOS


From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:18:27 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?
 



Another vote for Old English lemon oil. IMO teak is not intended to be urethaned or any of the other. Just sets you up for more maintenance, stripping, scraping, etc, which is contrary to using teak in the first place.  Oil 2x each summer and looks like new.
 Wipe off excess and no dirt problems. 



Jeff Laman


1981 C


Harmony



Get Outlook for Android





Get Outlook for Android



From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:50:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Leaving interior Teak natural?
 

Dean
My 32 came with the C advertised 'teak package'...teak everywhere...the V-birth, quarterberth, bulkheads, doors, head, dinette table teak veneer (I think), etc.

It is now 36 years old and has only ever been oiled. It still looks like new.  I have tried the 'designer oils' from yacht shops but prefer the stuff I buy at the grocery store Old English Lemon Oil

Now it means I oil the teak 2 maybe 3 times a year but isn't that why I own a 1984 C 32.

old
 english oil lemon - Bing

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S. 


On 2021-03-27 8:19 p.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:


Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating any exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or something else?


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu






Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Great topic.

I use Watco Teak Oil.  I'm using the same can for nineteen years now.  I wipe 
down the whole interior with Pinesol to clean and prevent mold.  I keep a 64:1 
diluted spray bottle aboard.  It removes any mold and any surface dirt.  It 
also removes some of the oil so after it dries, I wipe down the wood with Watco 
Teak Oil and wipe off any excess.   I love the smell. 

I'll have to try the Old English Lemon Oil spray.

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R


> On 03/27/2021 7:47 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Dean
> My 32 came with the C advertised 'teak package'...teak everywhere...the 
> V-birth, quarterberth, bulkheads, doors, head, dinette table teak veneer (I 
> think), etc.
> 
> It is now 36 years old and has only ever been oiled. It still looks like 
> new.  I have tried the 'designer oils' from yacht shops but prefer the stuff 
> I buy at the grocery store Old English Lemon Oil
> 
> Now it means I oil the teak 2 maybe 3 times a year but isn't that why I 
> own a 1984 C 32.
> 
> old english oil lemon - Bing 
> https://www.bing.com/search?q=old+english+oil+lemon=ANSPH1=c5a6c1d1a0974c488104caef1d01fd8f=U531=3=UT=old+english+oil+=PRES1UT2=8-16=c5a6c1d1a0974c488104caef1d01fd8f
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> On 2021-03-27 8:19 p.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful 
> > teak interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m 
> > successfully removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light 
> > sand, I’m wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not 
> > a fan of oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be 
> > treating any exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or 
> > natural? Or something else?
> > 
> > 
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

We use Wax and Feed. 
https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Products-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner/dp/B001BKQYGW

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Mar 27, 2021, at 6:15 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I would agree with the vote for oil over polyurethane or varnish and 
> certainly Cetol.  We used Watco teak oil for a while but did not like the 
> smell, though it did give good results. For the last several years we have 
> been using a product called Howard Feed n Wax that is beeswax and orange oil. 
>  We typically get a season out of it with no dirt issues and a pleasant 
> orange smell.  I just ordered another bottle on Amazon and would recommend it.
> 
> Jim Reinardy
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
> Milwaukee, WI
> 
> Get Outlook for iOS
> From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
> Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:18:27 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?
>  
> Another vote for Old English lemon oil. IMO teak is not intended to be 
> urethaned or any of the other. Just sets you up for more maintenance, 
> stripping, scraping, etc, which is contrary to using teak in the first place. 
>  Oil 2x each summer and looks like new. Wipe off excess and no dirt problems. 
> 
> Jeff Laman
> 1981 C
> Harmony
> 
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
> From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:50:53 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Robert Abbott 
> Subject: Stus-List Leaving interior Teak natural?
>  
> Dean
> My 32 came with the C advertised 'teak package'...teak everywhere...the 
> V-birth, quarterberth, bulkheads, doors, head, dinette table teak veneer (I 
> think), etc.
> 
> It is now 36 years old and has only ever been oiled. It still looks like new. 
>  I have tried the 'designer oils' from yacht shops but prefer the stuff I buy 
> at the grocery store Old English Lemon Oil
> 
> Now it means I oil the teak 2 maybe 3 times a year but isn't that why I own a 
> 1984 C 32.
> 
> old english oil lemon - Bing
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S. 
> 
> 
>> On 2021-03-27 8:19 p.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:
>> Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak 
>> interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully 
>> removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m 
>> wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of 
>> oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating any 
>> exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or 
>> something else?
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I would agree with the vote for oil over polyurethane or varnish and certainly 
Cetol.  We used Watco teak oil for a while but did not like the smell, though 
it did give good results. For the last several years we have been using a 
product called Howard Feed n Wax that is beeswax and orange oil.  We typically 
get a season out of it with no dirt issues and a pleasant orange smell.  I just 
ordered another bottle on Amazon and would recommend it.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:18:27 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

Another vote for Old English lemon oil. IMO teak is not intended to be 
urethaned or any of the other. Just sets you up for more maintenance, 
stripping, scraping, etc, which is contrary to using teak in the first place.  
Oil 2x each summer and looks like new. Wipe off excess and no dirt problems.

Jeff Laman
1981 C
Harmony

Get Outlook for Android

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>


From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:50:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Leaving interior Teak natural?

Dean
My 32 came with the C advertised 'teak package'...teak everywhere...the 
V-birth, quarterberth, bulkheads, doors, head, dinette table teak veneer (I 
think), etc.

It is now 36 years old and has only ever been oiled. It still looks like new.  
I have tried the 'designer oils' from yacht shops but prefer the stuff I buy at 
the grocery store Old English Lemon Oil

Now it means I oil the teak 2 maybe 3 times a year but isn't that why I own a 
1984 C 32.

old english oil lemon - 
Bing<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Dold%2Benglish%2Boil%2Blemon%26form%3DANSPH1%26refig%3Dc5a6c1d1a0974c488104caef1d01fd8f%26pc%3DU531%26sp%3D3%26qs%3DUT%26pq%3Dold%2Benglish%2Boil%2B%26sk%3DPRES1UT2%26sc%3D8-16%26cvid%3Dc5a6c1d1a0974c488104caef1d01fd8f=04%7C01%7C%7C5e6107e707444d958c3908d8f17b393b%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637524858833845042%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=%2FWZXLSo5r0o2X0nMnhfn5hwPVkdepiFQ6Z8qnMkP%2FB4%3D=0>

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2021-03-27 8:19 p.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:

Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak 
interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully 
removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m 
wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of 
oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating any 
exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or 
something else?



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
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Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Interesting do you have a picture of your interior rob
On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 8:18 PM Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Another vote for Old English lemon oil. IMO teak is not intended to be
> urethaned or any of the other. Just sets you up for more maintenance,
> stripping, scraping, etc, which is contrary to using teak in the first
> place.  Oil 2x each summer and looks like new. Wipe off excess and no dirt
> problems.
>
> Jeff Laman
> 1981 C
> Harmony
>
> Get Outlook for Android
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
>
> --
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:50:53 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Leaving interior Teak natural?
>
> Dean
> My 32 came with the C advertised 'teak package'...teak everywhere...the
> V-birth, quarterberth, bulkheads, doors, head, dinette table teak veneer (I
> think), etc.
>
> It is now 36 years old and has only ever been oiled. It still looks like
> new.  I have tried the 'designer oils' from yacht shops but prefer the
> stuff I buy at the grocery store Old English Lemon Oil
>
> Now it means I oil the teak 2 maybe 3 times a year but isn't that why I
> own a 1984 C 32.
>
> old english oil lemon - Bing
> 
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> On 2021-03-27 8:19 p.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak 
> interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully 
> removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m 
> wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of 
> oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating any 
> exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or 
> something else?
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>   Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List]

Another vote for Old English lemon oil. IMO teak is not intended to be 
urethaned or any of the other. Just sets you up for more maintenance, 
stripping, scraping, etc, which is contrary to using teak in the first place.  
Oil 2x each summer and looks like new. Wipe off excess and no dirt problems.

Jeff Laman
1981 C
Harmony

Get Outlook for Android

Get Outlook for Android


From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 7:50:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Leaving interior Teak natural?

Dean
My 32 came with the C advertised 'teak package'...teak everywhere...the 
V-birth, quarterberth, bulkheads, doors, head, dinette table teak veneer (I 
think), etc.

It is now 36 years old and has only ever been oiled. It still looks like new.  
I have tried the 'designer oils' from yacht shops but prefer the stuff I buy at 
the grocery store Old English Lemon Oil

Now it means I oil the teak 2 maybe 3 times a year but isn't that why I own a 
1984 C 32.

old english oil lemon - 
Bing

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2021-03-27 8:19 p.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:

Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak 
interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully 
removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m 
wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of 
oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating any 
exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or 
something else?



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I was very happy with minwax polyurethane. Either gloss or semi-gloss
depending on your preference

Bill Coleman

On Sat, Mar 27, 2021, 7:19 PM Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak
> interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully
> removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m
> wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of
> oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating
> any exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or
> something else?Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the
> list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to
> the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu