Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

Thanks to everyone for their help. The cables are out. 

It certainly helps to know what you are looking for when you start ripping 
things apart. 

The only challenge was seized machine screws which we dealt with using 
penetrating oil and an impact driver. 

We believe this is that last challenge with the replacing of the motor. But 
then we thought that before we started with the cables. 

Don 
Andante (new name), C&C 34 
Victoria, BC 




From: "John and Maryann Read"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2017 7:46:29 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but 



Hi Don 



Chuck’s instructions pretty much mirror our experience. Once the compass and 
plate are off and the cable clamp screw is removed, the entire cable / clamp / 
handle assembly can be removed from the binnacle. Attach new cable to the 
handle, attach cable clamp, refit into binnacle and tube. Be especially aware 
the handles only go in one way so carefully note their position going out so 
you can replicate going in. Best of luck 






John and Maryann 

Legacy III 

1982 C&C 34 

Noank, CT 





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2017 2:58 PM 
To: 'DON JONSSON'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but 




Don, 

Your boat has the same engine control as mine. It was a control made 
specifically for C&C because the engineers at C&C didn’t like the idea of the 
control cables for the engine running inside the pedestal, fearing they would 
possibly foul on the steering gear. It is either an Edson 737 or 747 control 
depending on whether you have an Atomic 4 (using a series 64 Morse Cable for 
the shift) or a diesel with a pair of Morse 33 cables. The only difference is 
the length of the cable clamps and the type of shift lever (the one for the gas 
engine has a long removable lever that stores on a hole in the engine control’s 
top plate). As soon as you started talking about removing the top plate, I 
suspected that your engine control was different than what was being discussed. 



On these controls, there is a strap steel clamp that extends down the stainless 
tube that serves to hold the cable from moving up and down when you actuate the 
levers. I can’t recall the exact size of screw that anchors these long metal 
pieces but they can be a real bear to remove. 

So, your compass needs to come off.. the top plate that bolts down onto the top 
of the controller comes off, you reach into the control and remove the cotter 
pin that holds the control lever to the cable clevis, remove the pivot bolt 
(screw?) and slide the control lever out of the engine control. Whatever you 
do, don’t break anything because parts are pretty much impossible to find. 
Remove the clamp screw and pull the cable up sufficiently to unscrew the clevis 
from the threaded cable end. The cable can either be routed up or down, 
depending on what would be the easier access. I typically find pushing the 
cable up through the tubes from below deck works better than feeding them down 
the tube. 



Should something be broken or the engine control is badly corroded, a refit to 
a model 816 engine control (diesel engine) or 751 (gas engine/paragon 
transmission) is probably recommended. This new control will fit between the 
pedestal and compass. 

I hope this helps. 

Again, If you struggle with the direction given here, Ken Martin at Edson has 
been dealing with “over the phone” help for these controls for 20 years or more 
and was always better than me with the customers! They may still have a 
photocopy of the original installation instructions they can send in a PDF. 



Good luck, 

Chuck Gilchrest 

S/V Half Magic 

1983 35 Landfall 

Padanaram, MA 






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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Don

 

Chuck’s instructions pretty much mirror our experience.  Once the compass and 
plate are off and the cable clamp screw is removed, the entire cable / clamp / 
handle assembly can be removed from the binnacle.  Attach new cable to the 
handle, attach cable clamp, refit into binnacle and tube.  Be especially aware 
the handles only go in one way so carefully note their position going out so 
you can replicate going in.  Best of luck

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2017 2:58 PM
To: 'DON JONSSON'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

 

Don,

Your boat has the same engine control as mine.  It was a control made 
specifically for C&C because the engineers at C&C didn’t like the idea of the 
control cables for the engine running inside the pedestal, fearing they would 
possibly foul on the steering gear.  It is either an Edson 737 or 747 control 
depending on whether you have an Atomic 4 (using a series 64 Morse Cable for 
the shift) or a diesel with a pair of Morse 33 cables.  The only difference is 
the length of the cable clamps and the type of shift lever (the one for the gas 
engine has a long removable lever that stores on a hole in the engine control’s 
top plate).  As soon as you started talking about removing the top plate, I 
suspected that your engine control was different than what was being discussed. 
   

 

On these controls, there is a strap steel clamp that extends down the stainless 
tube that serves to hold the cable from moving up and down when you actuate the 
levers.  I can’t recall the exact size of screw that anchors these long metal 
pieces but they can be a real bear to remove.  

So, your compass needs to come off.. the top plate that bolts down onto the top 
of the controller comes off, you reach into the control and remove the cotter 
pin that holds the control lever to the cable clevis, remove the pivot bolt 
(screw?) and slide the control lever out of the engine control.  Whatever you 
do, don’t break anything because parts are pretty  much impossible to find.  
Remove the clamp screw and pull the cable up sufficiently to unscrew the clevis 
from the threaded cable end.  The cable can either be routed up or down, 
depending on what would be the easier access.  I typically find pushing the 
cable up through the tubes from below deck works better than feeding them down 
the tube.

 

Should something be broken or the engine control is badly corroded, a refit to 
a model 816 engine control (diesel engine) or 751 (gas engine/paragon 
transmission) is probably recommended.  This new control will fit between the 
pedestal and compass.

I hope this helps.  

Again, If you struggle with the direction given here, Ken Martin at Edson has 
been dealing with “over the phone” help for these controls for 20 years or more 
and was always better than me with the customers!  They may still have a 
photocopy of the original installation instructions they can send in a PDF.

 

Good luck,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

And the model 870 is a complete No Go..

 

As an alternative, some folks relocate their engine controls on a bulkhead in 
the cockpit and go to a single lever control..but only if you have a diesel 
with 2 series 33 cables.  A4 engine controls would require a dual lever 
control..

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2017 3:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

 

Just be aware that with the smaller-diameter riser pipe on the older pedestals, 
running the control cables up the pedestal and switching to the 816 control 
levers is damn near impossible.  Ask me how I know…

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(





On Dec 11, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Should something be broken or the engine control is badly corroded, a refit to 
a model 816 engine control (diesel engine) or 751 (gas engine/paragon 
transmission) is probably recommended.  This new control will fit between the 
pedestal and compass.

 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Just be aware that with the smaller-diameter riser pipe on the older pedestals, 
running the control cables up the pedestal and switching to the 816 control 
levers is damn near impossible.  Ask me how I know…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 11, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Should something be broken or the engine control is badly corroded, a refit 
> to a model 816 engine control (diesel engine) or 751 (gas engine/paragon 
> transmission) is probably recommended.  This new control will fit between the 
> pedestal and compass.

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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Don,

Your boat has the same engine control as mine.  It was a control made 
specifically for C&C because the engineers at C&C didn’t like the idea of the 
control cables for the engine running inside the pedestal, fearing they would 
possibly foul on the steering gear.  It is either an Edson 737 or 747 control 
depending on whether you have an Atomic 4 (using a series 64 Morse Cable for 
the shift) or a diesel with a pair of Morse 33 cables.  The only difference is 
the length of the cable clamps and the type of shift lever (the one for the gas 
engine has a long removable lever that stores on a hole in the engine control’s 
top plate).  As soon as you started talking about removing the top plate, I 
suspected that your engine control was different than what was being discussed. 
   

 

On these controls, there is a strap steel clamp that extends down the stainless 
tube that serves to hold the cable from moving up and down when you actuate the 
levers.  I can’t recall the exact size of screw that anchors these long metal 
pieces but they can be a real bear to remove.  

So, your compass needs to come off.. the top plate that bolts down onto the top 
of the controller comes off, you reach into the control and remove the cotter 
pin that holds the control lever to the cable clevis, remove the pivot bolt 
(screw?) and slide the control lever out of the engine control.  Whatever you 
do, don’t break anything because parts are pretty  much impossible to find.  
Remove the clamp screw and pull the cable up sufficiently to unscrew the clevis 
from the threaded cable end.  The cable can either be routed up or down, 
depending on what would be the easier access.  I typically find pushing the 
cable up through the tubes from below deck works better than feeding them down 
the tube.

 

Should something be broken or the engine control is badly corroded, a refit to 
a model 816 engine control (diesel engine) or 751 (gas engine/paragon 
transmission) is probably recommended.  This new control will fit between the 
pedestal and compass.

I hope this helps.  

Again, If you struggle with the direction given here, Ken Martin at Edson has 
been dealing with “over the phone” help for these controls for 20 years or more 
and was always better than me with the customers!  They may still have a 
photocopy of the original installation instructions they can send in a PDF.

 

Good luck,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

 

 

 

On Dec 9, 2017 8:28 PM, "DON JONSSON via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

On our C&C we have replaced the motor and now need to replace the shifter 
cable.  It is a C&C 34 with a throttle on one side and the shifter on port.  
The secret is how to disconnect the shifter lever from the cable with out 
ripping everything apart on the binnacle.  We don't know the secret.  Does 
anyone?  I suspect trying to take the pin out that goes through the u-joint on 
the end of the cable holding it to the lever with needle nose pliers will end 
badly.  Trying to put it back together even worse.  First attempt at removing 
the screws/bolts holding the top plate down around the compass on the binnacle 
did not bode well.

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
C&C 34, Victoria

Sent from my iPad
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I replaced the cable on my 1977 C&C 27 which sounds like the same setup.  There 
is a small screw on the tube that holds the shifter cable bracket.  If memory 
serves, once you remove the screw you can lift the cable or push it up from 
below, and the pull the cotter pin.
Feel free to call if you want to talk it through.
Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+847.404.5092


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/11/17  11:18 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but 
Don — that’s most likely the older Edson system, with the narrower riser tube 
on the pedestal; Chuck Gilchrest will know the model number (301?).  That’s a 
completely different animal, and something I don’t think Edson has sold for 35 
years or more.  The system was in place on my LF38 when I bought her; I’ve 
since replaced the entire pedestal, as I wanted the different control scheme 
and also needed to fit a wheel pilot (something you couldn’t do on the 
four-tube system).
— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



On Dec 11, 2017, at 9:54 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List  
wrote:
Hi
Thanks to comments on replacing shifter cable.  The catch is I'm not sure the 
binnacle is an Edson.  The shifters are not mounted in the side of the binnacle 
and the cables do not run up and down inside the binnacle.  Rather they run up 
through the binnacle support/protector stainless tubes.  There are four 
supports on this boat, two fore and two aft of the binnacle.  The cables run up 
the aft tubes, one on either side.
Does anyone have experience with this set up?  Where is the clamp that is 
holding the cable?
ThanksDon
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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Don — that’s most likely the older Edson system, with the narrower riser tube 
on the pedestal; Chuck Gilchrest will know the model number (301?).  That’s a 
completely different animal, and something I don’t think Edson has sold for 35 
years or more.  The system was in place on my LF38 when I bought her; I’ve 
since replaced the entire pedestal, as I wanted the different control scheme 
and also needed to fit a wheel pilot (something you couldn’t do on the 
four-tube system).

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 11, 2017, at 9:54 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thanks to comments on replacing shifter cable.  The catch is I'm not sure the 
> binnacle is an Edson.  The shifters are not mounted in the side of the 
> binnacle and the cables do not run up and down inside the binnacle.  Rather 
> they run up through the binnacle support/protector stainless tubes.  There 
> are four supports on this boat, two fore and two aft of the binnacle.  The 
> cables run up the aft tubes, one on either side.
> 
> Does anyone have experience with this set up?  Where is the clamp that is 
> holding the cable?
> 
> Thanks
> Don

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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

Hi

Thanks to comments on replacing shifter cable.  The catch is I'm not sure the 
binnacle is an Edson.  The shifters are not mounted in the side of the binnacle 
and the cables do not run up and down inside the binnacle.  Rather they run up 
through the binnacle support/protector stainless tubes.  There are four 
supports on this boat, two fore and two aft of the binnacle.  The cables run up 
the aft tubes, one on either side.

Does anyone have experience with this set up?  Where is the clamp that is 
holding the cable?

Thanks
Don


Sent from my iPad

On Dec 11, 2017, at 4:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest  wrote:

Don,
Do not take apart the Pedestal to replace the cables.  You will need to remove 
the compass and the engine control cylinder but there’s no need to take apart 
the wheel shaft (if you have, go ahead and replace and lubricate the shaft 
bearings once you’re in there with Teflon grease, not petroleum grease).   I’ve 
attached Edson’s instructions on replacing the cables and if anyone needs to be 
walked through the process, simply call Edson 508-995-9711 and Ken Martin will 
happily help you through the process.
http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF
 
The process is not intuitive so it is best to read the directions first.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
83 Landfall 35
 
 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 9, 2017 9:13 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable
 
I had to completely disassemble my binnacle when I did mine.  I can't imagine 
any other way.  Despite only needing to do the throttle cable I chose to do 
both so as to avoid the need to disassemble in the near future.
 
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
 
 
 
On Dec 9, 2017 8:28 PM, "DON JONSSON via CnC-List"  
wrote:
On our C&C we have replaced the motor and now need to replace the shifter 
cable.  It is a C&C 34 with a throttle on one side and the shifter on port.  
The secret is how to disconnect the shifter lever from the cable with out 
ripping everything apart on the binnacle.  We don't know the secret.  Does 
anyone?  I suspect trying to take the pin out that goes through the u-joint on 
the end of the cable holding it to the lever with needle nose pliers will end 
badly.  Trying to put it back together even worse.  First attempt at removing 
the screws/bolts holding the top plate down around the compass on the binnacle 
did not bode well.

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
C&C 34, Victoria

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Don, I have replaced both the shifter and the throttle cable on my C&C33ii.
(Edson pedestal)  Disconnecting the cable from the levers is probably the
easiest part of the job. The two big issues I ran into were: 1. The cables
are strapped to the rear of the pedestal via a special clamp. If you have an
acorn nut about a foot down on the stern side of the pedestal, you have this
clip. Removing it is easy; just remove the acorn nut and the bolt will slip
inside the pedestal. However, reinstalling the clip is nearly impossible
without removing the chain drive for the steering.  2. When I tried to
reinsert the new cables through the deck, the ends would not pass through
the hole, there was just no wiggle room below decks to allow the cables to
be inserted. This meant dropping the sheave plate, removing the pedestal and
making a larger hole in the deck for the cables to pass through. After that,
it is just a matter of reassembling everything and ensuring that the cables
are clear of the steering chain/cables.

The arrangement on your C&C34 may be a little different. Good luck.

 

Mike Amirault

C&C33ii Lovely Cruise

SMSC

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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Don,

Do not take apart the Pedestal to replace the cables.  You will need to remove 
the compass and the engine control cylinder but there’s no need to take apart 
the wheel shaft (if you have, go ahead and replace and lubricate the shaft 
bearings once you’re in there with Teflon grease, not petroleum grease).   I’ve 
attached Edson’s instructions on replacing the cables and if anyone needs to be 
walked through the process, simply call Edson 508-995-9711 and Ken Martin will 
happily help you through the process.

http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF

 

The process is not intuitive so it is best to read the directions first.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

83 Landfall 35

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 9, 2017 9:13 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable

 

I had to completely disassemble my binnacle when I did mine.  I can't imagine 
any other way.  Despite only needing to do the throttle cable I chose to do 
both so as to avoid the need to disassemble in the near future.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

On Dec 9, 2017 8:28 PM, "DON JONSSON via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

On our C&C we have replaced the motor and now need to replace the shifter 
cable.  It is a C&C 34 with a throttle on one side and the shifter on port.  
The secret is how to disconnect the shifter lever from the cable with out 
ripping everything apart on the binnacle.  We don't know the secret.  Does 
anyone?  I suspect trying to take the pin out that goes through the u-joint on 
the end of the cable holding it to the lever with needle nose pliers will end 
badly.  Trying to put it back together even worse.  First attempt at removing 
the screws/bolts holding the top plate down around the compass on the binnacle 
did not bode well.

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
C&C 34, Victoria

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Don,

I did as well. And, like Josh, once I had to do one, I did both just to make 
sure I would not have to do it again anytime soon. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 









On Dec 9, 2017, at 9:12 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

I had to completely disassemble my binnacle when I did mine.  I can't imagine 
any other way.  Despite only needing to do the throttle cable I chose to do 
both so as to avoid the need to disassemble in the near future.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Dec 9, 2017 8:28 PM, "DON JONSSON via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
On our C&C we have replaced the motor and now need to replace the shifter 
cable.  It is a C&C 34 with a throttle on one side and the shifter on port.  
The secret is how to disconnect the shifter lever from the cable with out 
ripping everything apart on the binnacle.  We don't know the secret.  Does 
anyone?  I suspect trying to take the pin out that goes through the u-joint on 
the end of the cable holding it to the lever with needle nose pliers will end 
badly.  Trying to put it back together even worse.  First attempt at removing 
the screws/bolts holding the top plate down around the compass on the binnacle 
did not bode well.

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
C&C 34, Victoria

Sent from my iPad


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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Don

Replaced the OEM cables on our 34 2 years ago.  Huge improvement.  Not hard
but does require exacting process so things will come apart and back
together.  Yes you need to remove the plate and compass from the binnacle so
you can remove the handle and cable assembly which is a tight fit and only
works one way.  Contact me off list if you need any more info


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON
JONSSON via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2017 8:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable

On our C&C we have replaced the motor and now need to replace the shifter
cable.  It is a C&C 34 with a throttle on one side and the shifter on port.
The secret is how to disconnect the shifter lever from the cable with out
ripping everything apart on the binnacle.  We don't know the secret.  Does
anyone?  I suspect trying to take the pin out that goes through the u-joint
on the end of the cable holding it to the lever with needle nose pliers will
end badly.  Trying to put it back together even worse.  First attempt at
removing the screws/bolts holding the top plate down around the compass on
the binnacle did not bode well.

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
C&C 34, Victoria

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I had to completely disassemble my binnacle when I did mine.  I can't
imagine any other way.  Despite only needing to do the throttle cable I
chose to do both so as to avoid the need to disassemble in the near future.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Dec 9, 2017 8:28 PM, "DON JONSSON via CnC-List" 
wrote:

On our C&C we have replaced the motor and now need to replace the shifter
cable.  It is a C&C 34 with a throttle on one side and the shifter on
port.  The secret is how to disconnect the shifter lever from the cable
with out ripping everything apart on the binnacle.  We don't know the
secret.  Does anyone?  I suspect trying to take the pin out that goes
through the u-joint on the end of the cable holding it to the lever with
needle nose pliers will end badly.  Trying to put it back together even
worse.  First attempt at removing the screws/bolts holding the top plate
down around the compass on the binnacle did not bode well.

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
C&C 34, Victoria

Sent from my iPad
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Stus-List Replacing shifter cable

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

On our C&C we have replaced the motor and now need to replace the shifter 
cable.  It is a C&C 34 with a throttle on one side and the shifter on port.  
The secret is how to disconnect the shifter lever from the cable with out 
ripping everything apart on the binnacle.  We don't know the secret.  Does 
anyone?  I suspect trying to take the pin out that goes through the u-joint on 
the end of the cable holding it to the lever with needle nose pliers will end 
badly.  Trying to put it back together even worse.  First attempt at removing 
the screws/bolts holding the top plate down around the compass on the binnacle 
did not bode well.

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
C&C 34, Victoria

Sent from my iPad
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