Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dan via CnC-List]

t;>>
>>>
>>> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug
>>> that looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline.
>>> There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered
>>> plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t
>>> remove it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a
>>> chance to soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden
>>> mallet. Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be
>>> damaged. A sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch
>>> and break the bond of the internal corrosion.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you
>>> don’t damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the
>>> valve. A smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially
>>> what keeps water from leaking around the plug.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>>> *Dennis
>>> C. via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
>>> *To:* CnClist 
>>> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a
>>> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances
>>> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a
>>> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the
>>> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the
>>> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
>>> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
>>> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
>>> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
>>> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
>>> the removed hose?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on
>>> the outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put
>>> it in the top?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I
>>> haven't damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly
>>> getting in there and doing it's thing...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would
>>> be a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free
>>> them. They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are
>>> well adhered to the hull.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
>>>
>>> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Dan,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress.
>>> I then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over
>>> the handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its
>>> best$ I was able to work them open and closed.
>

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dan

I've only lapped the leaking ones (three of mine).  The others, I periodically 
(every couple of years) put grease nipples on and crank in some waterproof 
grease - Loctite Viperlube (Schooner Industrial in Burnside).

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-26 3:49 PM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List wrote:
They both appeared very smooth- just black tarnish and small amount of pitting 
around the holes but they didn't appear to be in dire need of lapping or 
grinding. There was no build-up or scoring on the inner drums. The outer drum 
is hard to tell.

Do all of you do a round of lapping when you service these?

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On May 26, 2018, at 3:32 PM, Kevin Paxton 
<kpax...@paxdesigns.com<mailto:kpax...@paxdesigns.com>> wrote:

Lapping compound is needed to smooth out the surfaces so that they join 
properly and provide a good seal. If they aren't smooth, then the possibility 
of a leak is far greater. Check out that link I provided on the servicing of 
them and it explains it really well.

On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:21 PM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it gave 
after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the end of 
my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage to 
anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a non-scratching 
scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One drum looked smooth, 
the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't have any lapping compound 
so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how important is the lapping compound 
step?

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on the 
stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.

Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it as it 
made it a lot faster to turn the cone.

Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I 
ground one down to fit the inside nut.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks Rick,

So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both 
seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench 
liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I stopped 
up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively down both 
scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles and put a 
wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with a rubber 
mallet to no avail.

There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with 
anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of 
anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in 
storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe trick 
but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will send an 
update then!

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Dan;

The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – kind of 
like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.

The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug that 
looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline. There is 
a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered plug into the 
tapered body of the through hull.

If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove it, 
just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to soak in a 
bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. Neither the nut or 
the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A sound tap or two will move 
the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break the bond of the internal 
corrosion.

When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you don’t 
damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the valve. A 
smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially what keeps 
water from leaking around the plug.

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com<mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a liquid 
penetrating oi

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Daniel Cormier via CnC-List]

They both appeared very smooth- just black tarnish and small amount of pitting 
around the holes but they didn't appear to be in dire need of lapping or 
grinding. There was no build-up or scoring on the inner drums. The outer drum 
is hard to tell.

Do all of you do a round of lapping when you service these?

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 26, 2018, at 3:32 PM, Kevin Paxton <kpax...@paxdesigns.com> wrote:
> 
> Lapping compound is needed to smooth out the surfaces so that they join 
> properly and provide a good seal. If they aren't smooth, then the possibility 
> of a leak is far greater. Check out that link I provided on the servicing of 
> them and it explains it really well.
> 
>> On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:21 PM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it 
>> gave after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the 
>> end of my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage 
>> to anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a 
>> non-scratching scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One drum 
>> looked smooth, the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't have any 
>> lapping compound so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how important is the 
>> lapping compound step?
>> 
>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on 
>>> the stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.
>>> 
>>> Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it 
>>> as it made it a lot faster to turn the cone.
>>> 
>>> Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I 
>>> ground one down to fit the inside nut.
>>> Graham Collins
>>> Secret Plans
>>> C 35-III #11
>>>> On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>>>> Thanks Rick,
>>>> 
>>>> So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both 
>>>> seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench 
>>>> liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I 
>>>> stopped up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively 
>>>> down both scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles 
>>>> and put a wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with 
>>>> a rubber mallet to no avail.
>>>> 
>>>> There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with 
>>>> anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of 
>>>> anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in 
>>>> storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe 
>>>> trick but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will 
>>>> send an update then!
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>>>> 
>>>> Dan
>>>> 
>>>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>> Dan;
>>>>> 
>>>>>  
>>>>> 
>>>>> The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – 
>>>>> kind of like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.
>>>>> 
>>>>>  
>>>>> 
>>>>> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug 
>>>>> that looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the 
>>>>> centerline. There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds 
>>>>> the tapered plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
>>>>> 
>>>>>  
>>>>> 
>>>>> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove 
>>>>> it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to 
>>>>> soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. 
>>>>> Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A 
>>>>> sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break 
>>>

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Lapping compound is needed to smooth out the surfaces so that they join
properly and provide a good seal. If they aren't smooth, then the
possibility of a leak is far greater. Check out that link I provided on the
servicing of them and it explains it really well.

On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:21 PM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it
> gave after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the
> end of my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage
> to anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a
> non-scratching scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One
> drum looked smooth, the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't
> have any lapping compound so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how
> important is the lapping compound step?
>
> Thanks for all the help guys!
>
> Dan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on
> the stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.
>
> Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it
> as it made it a lot faster to turn the cone.
>
> Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I
> ground one down to fit the inside nut.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Thanks Rick,
>
> So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both
> seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench
> liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I
> stopped up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively
> down both scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles
> and put a wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with
> a rubber mallet to no avail.
>
> There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with
> anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of
> anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in
> storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe
> trick but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will
> send an update then!
>
> Thanks for all the help guys!
>
> Dan
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dan;
>>
>>
>>
>> The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve –
>> kind of like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.
>>
>>
>>
>> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug
>> that looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline.
>> There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered
>> plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
>>
>>
>>
>> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove
>> it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to
>> soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet.
>> Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A
>> sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break
>> the bond of the internal corrosion.
>>
>>
>>
>> When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you
>> don’t damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the
>> valve. A smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially
>> what keeps water from leaking around the plug.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
>> C. via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
>> *To:* CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Cc:* Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>>
>>
>>
>> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a
>> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances
>> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a
>> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the
>> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the
>> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dennis

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Daniel Cormier via CnC-List]

Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it gave 
after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the end of 
my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage to 
anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a non-scratching 
scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One drum looked smooth, 
the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't have any lapping compound 
so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how important is the lapping compound 
step?

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on the 
> stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.
> 
> Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it as 
> it made it a lot faster to turn the cone.
> 
> Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I 
> ground one down to fit the inside nut.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>> On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>> Thanks Rick,
>> 
>> So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both 
>> seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench 
>> liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I 
>> stopped up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively 
>> down both scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles 
>> and put a wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with a 
>> rubber mallet to no avail.
>> 
>> There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with 
>> anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of 
>> anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in 
>> storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe trick 
>> but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will send an 
>> update then!
>> 
>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> Dan;
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – kind 
>>> of like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug that 
>>> looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline. 
>>> There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered 
>>> plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove 
>>> it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to 
>>> soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. 
>>> Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A 
>>> sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break 
>>> the bond of the internal corrosion.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you don’t 
>>> damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the valve. A 
>>> smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially what 
>>> keeps water from leaking around the plug.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis 
>>> C. via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
>>> To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a 
>>> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances 
>>> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a 
>>> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the 
>>> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the 
>>> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[G Collins via CnC-List]

if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on the 
stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.

Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it as it 
made it a lot faster to turn the cone.

Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I 
ground one down to fit the inside nut.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks Rick,

So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both 
seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench 
liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I stopped 
up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively down both 
scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles and put a 
wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with a rubber 
mallet to no avail.

There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with 
anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of 
anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in 
storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe trick 
but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will send an 
update then!

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Dan;

The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – kind of 
like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.

The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug that 
looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline. There is 
a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered plug into the 
tapered body of the through hull.

If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove it, 
just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to soak in a 
bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. Neither the nut or 
the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A sound tap or two will move 
the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break the bond of the internal 
corrosion.

When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you don’t 
damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the valve. A 
smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially what keeps 
water from leaking around the plug.

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com<mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a liquid 
penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances are most of 
it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a way to plug the 
seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the top of the plug when 
you pour from the top it may then seep around the plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total), sprayed 
inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have loosened that 
tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my mind, but now it 
makes complete sense. I can try spraying from undneath/outside the boat which 
would have the same effect as spraying from the removed hose?

Dan



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dan via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick,

So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both
seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench
liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I
stopped up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively
down both scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles
and put a wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with
a rubber mallet to no avail.

There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with
anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of
anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in
storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe
trick but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will
send an update then!

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dan;
>
>
>
> The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve –
> kind of like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.
>
>
>
> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug
> that looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline.
> There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered
> plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
>
>
>
> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove
> it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to
> soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet.
> Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A
> sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break
> the bond of the internal corrosion.
>
>
>
> When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you
> don’t damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the
> valve. A smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially
> what keeps water from leaking around the plug.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
> *To:* CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>
>
>
> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a
> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances
> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a
> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the
> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the
> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
> the removed hose?
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the
> outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it
> in the top?
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't
> damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting
> in there and doing it's thing...
>
>
>
> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be
> a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them.
> They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well
> adhered to the hull.
>
>
>
> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
>
> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Dan

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 We get lots of zebra mussels in our valves...the bst tool is a wire coat 
hangerwe are in river water, not salt water

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37  CB; Ohio River, Mile 596




Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, May 24, 2018 10:47 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks



Have you checked for growth in the valve body/travel path of the valve ball?  
Imagine if an oyster or big mussel grew up in there.  You could use a dowel 
from the outside to check it clear or ram it out if needed.


Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 



On May 24, 2018 12:43 AM, "Dan via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.


photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY



I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.


My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.


What should I do?


Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS






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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Have you checked for growth in the valve body/travel path of the valve
ball?  Imagine if an oyster or big mussel grew up in there.  You could use
a dowel from the outside to check it clear or ram it out if needed.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 24, 2018 12:43 AM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
drain hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
them to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Dan;

 

The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – kind of 
like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.

 

The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug that 
looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline. There is 
a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered plug into the 
tapered body of the through hull. 

 

If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove it, 
just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to soak in a 
bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. Neither the nut or 
the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A sound tap or two will move 
the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break the bond of the internal 
corrosion.

 

When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you don’t 
damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the valve. A 
smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially what keeps 
water from leaking around the plug.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

 

With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a liquid 
penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances are most of 
it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a way to plug the 
seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the top of the plug when 
you pour from the top it may then seep around the plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?

 

Dennis C.

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total), sprayed 
inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have loosened that 
tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my mind, but now it 
makes complete sense. I can try spraying from undneath/outside the boat which 
would have the same effect as spraying from the removed hose?

 

Dan

 

 

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?

 

Dennis C.

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...

 

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.

 

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

 

Dan

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.

https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Dan,

 

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.

/J


On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan <dgcorm...@gmail.com 
<mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com> > wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

 

photos on google drive:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

 

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

 

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?

Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

 

What should I do?

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C

Halifax, NS

 

 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


__

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The preferred penetration oil by heavy equipment, lift truck and diesel 
mechanics (based on better than 30 years experience on the service and 
engineering sides of those industries) is PB Blaster. Available at just about 
any auto parts, NAPPA, Walmart, Lowes, etc. 

 

Liquid Wrench is marginally better than WD-40.

 

WD-40 is the best diesel starting spray you can buy – and that is about all a 
mechanic will use it for.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 9:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan <dgcorm...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

 

I'll give liquid wrench a try tonight and have at it over the weekend and get 
back to you guys.

 

Thanks for all help! - I'm glad this list exists :)

 

Dan

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:37 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

WD-40 is, as the name suggests “water displacement” agent. It is not a good 
lubricant, nor a good penetrating oil.

 

Marek

 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 09:21

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Cc: Hoyt, Mike 

Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

 

 

Also … did you say WD 40?  Perhaps you might try a better penetrating oil as I 
believe that is a lubricant.

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

 

 

 

 


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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



 

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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Are you in the water?   Mine would freeze after being on the hard for the 
winter but free up again after being in the water

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 8:21:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

sounds like you have grocco bronze seacocks, they are really good and
you can make them work, try harder I think they might have a loosening
nut on the lever...they will need to function to pass survey...
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 1:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain
> hoses.
>
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or
> should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

sounds like you have grocco bronze seacocks, they are really good and
you can make them work, try harder I think they might have a loosening
nut on the lever...they will need to function to pass survey...
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 1:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain
> hoses.
>
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or
> should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[G Collins via CnC-List]

You can also screw a grease gun fitting into the threaded holes on either side, 
and pump some grease in.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-24 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
> wrote:
forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hi Dan,

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.

/J

On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan 
> wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS


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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dan

I'd take the nuts and washer off, and rig up some sort of press.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-24 1:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS





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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

or a wood plug

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:43 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a
> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances
> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a
> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the
> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the
> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
>> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
>> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
>> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
>> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
>> the removed hose?
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on
>>> the outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put
>>> it in the top?
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List >> > wrote:
>>>
 Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I
 haven't damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly
 getting in there and doing it's thing...

 The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would
 be a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free
 them. They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are
 well adhered to the hull.

 Thanks guys, will update with progress!

 Dan

 On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Dan,
>>
>> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no
>> progress. I then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as
>> leverage over the handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage
>> working at its best$ I was able to work them open and closed.
>>
>> /J
>>
>> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
>>
>> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my
>> cockpit drain hoses.
>>
>> photos on google drive:
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>>
>> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the
>> open position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't
>> get them to budge.
>>
>> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of
>> replacement or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close
>> seacocks to the cockpit drains?
>> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>>
>> What should I do?
>>
>> Dan
>> Breakaweigh
>> C
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
>> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
>> list
>> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurr
>> ay
>>
>>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
> list
> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>

 ___

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 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
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>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a
liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances
are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a
way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the
top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the
plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
> the removed hose?
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the
>> outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it
>> in the top?
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I
>>> haven't damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly
>>> getting in there and doing it's thing...
>>>
>>> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would
>>> be a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free
>>> them. They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are
>>> well adhered to the hull.
>>>
>>> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
 https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

 On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dan,
>
> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no
> progress. I then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as
> leverage over the handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage
> working at its best$ I was able to work them open and closed.
>
> /J
>
> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
>
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
> drain hoses.
>
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the
> open position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't
> get them to budge.
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of
> replacement or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close
> seacocks to the cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
> list
> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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to send contribution -- 

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dan,

A heat gun or torch will aid the process if it is an all bronze seacock.

Good luck!

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 9:41 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> I'll give liquid wrench a try tonight and have at it over the weekend and
> get back to you guys.
>
> Thanks for all help! - I'm glad this list exists :)
>
> Dan
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:37 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> WD-40 is, as the name suggests “water displacement” agent. It is not a
>> good lubricant, nor a good penetrating oil.
>>
>> Marek
>>
>> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 09:21
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Also … did you say WD 40?  Perhaps you might try a better penetrating oil
>> as I believe that is a lubricant.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dan via CnC-List]

I'll give liquid wrench a try tonight and have at it over the weekend and
get back to you guys.

Thanks for all help! - I'm glad this list exists :)

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:37 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> WD-40 is, as the name suggests “water displacement” agent. It is not a
> good lubricant, nor a good penetrating oil.
>
> Marek
>
> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 09:21
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>
>
>
>
> Also … did you say WD 40?  Perhaps you might try a better penetrating oil
> as I believe that is a lubricant.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

WD-40 is, as the name suggests “water displacement” agent. It is not a good 
lubricant, nor a good penetrating oil.

Marek

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 09:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks


Also … did you say WD 40?  Perhaps you might try a better penetrating oil as I 
believe that is a lubricant.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS




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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

For example here: 
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/penetrating-oil-showdown.350800/

Marek

From: bwhitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 09:24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

By the way the best penetrating oil according to  a test I saw was not a brand 
oil, nut a 50/50  mix of acetone and ATF.  I forgot where I saw that, but the 
test seemed valid at the time.

Bruce Whitmore




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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

By the way the best penetrating oil according to  a test I saw was not a brand 
oil, nut a 50/50  mix of acetone and ATF.  I forgot where I saw that, but the 
test seemed valid at the time.
Bruce Whitmore 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 5/24/18  9:02 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: CnClist 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks 
How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?
Dennis C.
On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...
The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.
Thanks guys, will update with progress!
Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it 
loose.https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi Dan,
I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.

/J
On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan <dgcorm...@gmail.com> wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.
photos on google 
drive:https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.
My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
What should I do?
DanBreakaweighC, NS


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___



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray






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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

When I was removing front wheel bearings on my Chev Silverado a few years back 
the first one was stuck and required penetrating oil, heat and a lot of whacks 
with a very large hammer.  This process too several hours and was NOT 
non-destructive

A year later when a MVI forced me to replace the other side the mechanic told 
me that he sprays on the penetration oil at the end of the day and leaves the 
vehicle over night before attempting to remove the bearing.  I did this and it 
came off much more easily.  The lesson is to apply the penetrating oil and wait 
a day

Also … did you say WD 40?  Perhaps you might try a better penetrating oil as I 
believe that is a lubricant.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total), sprayed 
inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have loosened that 
tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my mind, but now it 
makes complete sense. I can try spraying from undneath/outside the boat which 
would have the same effect as spraying from the removed hose?

Dan



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dan,

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.
/J

On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan 
<dgcorm...@gmail.com<mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS


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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dan via CnC-List]

I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
the removed hose?

Dan



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the
> outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it
> in the top?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't
>> damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting
>> in there and doing it's thing...
>>
>> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be
>> a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them.
>> They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well
>> adhered to the hull.
>>
>> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
>>> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hi Dan,

 I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress.
 I then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over
 the handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its
 best$ I was able to work them open and closed.

 /J

 On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:

 I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
 drain hoses.

 photos on google drive:
 https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

 I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
 position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
 them to budge.

 My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of
 replacement or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close
 seacocks to the cockpit drains?
 Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

 What should I do?

 Dan
 Breakaweigh
 C
 Halifax, NS


 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it
in the top?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't
> damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting
> in there and doing it's thing...
>
> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be
> a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them.
> They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well
> adhered to the hull.
>
> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>
> Dan
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
>> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Dan,
>>>
>>> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress.
>>> I then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over
>>> the handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its
>>> best$ I was able to work them open and closed.
>>>
>>> /J
>>>
>>> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
>>> drain hoses.
>>>
>>> photos on google drive:
>>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>>>
>>> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
>>> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
>>> them to budge.
>>>
>>> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of
>>> replacement or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close
>>> seacocks to the cockpit drains?
>>> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>>>
>>> What should I do?
>>>
>>> Dan
>>> Breakaweigh
>>> C
>>> Halifax, NS
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
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>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>>
>>
>
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>
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dan via CnC-List]

Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting
in there and doing it's thing...

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them.
They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well
adhered to the hull.

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Dan,
>>
>> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I
>> then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the
>> handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I
>> was able to work them open and closed.
>>
>> /J
>>
>> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
>>
>> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
>> drain hoses.
>>
>> photos on google drive:
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>>
>> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
>> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
>> them to budge.
>>
>> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
>> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
>> cockpit drains?
>> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>>
>> What should I do?
>>
>> Dan
>> Breakaweigh
>> C
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dan,
>
> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I
> then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the
> handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I
> was able to work them open and closed.
>
> /J
>
> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
>
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
> drain hoses.
>
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

Hi Dan,

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.

/J

> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
> 
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
> hoses.
> 
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
> 
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
> to budge.
> 
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
> should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
> cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
> 
> What should I do?
> 
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I actually had the same problem just with one of my forward seacocks. It
will break loose, but it will take some time. I was at it for a couple
hours at least. I didn't want to rip it off due to them being so difficult
to remove without destroying things. The one thing I will say is don't bang
on the handle that is attached. Take that one off and put on a big wrench
and bang on that instead. Also, it is a tapered bronze seacock, I think I
did end up taking off the nut and washer from the one side and try to tap
it sideways a bit. But be careful with it cause it's easy to damage the
threads. I ended up cutting off the very tip that I had damaged in that
process.

IMHO I like the tapered bronze seacocks much better than the newer ones
that you can find out there these days.

This has a good write up as well
https://www.passagemaker.com/technical/seacocks.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 6:58 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Worst case might be to remove the seacocks, then you can adequately heat
> them etc to disassemble and rebuild??
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Matti
> Airas via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 4:38 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Matti Airas
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I'd replace the seacocks. Even if you'd never use them in regular
> conditions, you're much better off if, say, a hose breaks and you need to
> contain the leak.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Matti
>
>
>
> On Thu, 24 May 2018 at 07:43, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
> drain hoses.
>
>
>
> photos on google drive:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
>
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
>
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
>
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
>
>
> What should I do?
>
>
>
> Dan
>
> Breakaweigh
>
> C
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Worst case might be to remove the seacocks, then you can adequately heat them 
etc to disassemble and rebuild??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matti Airas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 4:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matti Airas
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

 

Hi,

 

I'd replace the seacocks. Even if you'd never use them in regular conditions, 
you're much better off if, say, a hose breaks and you need to contain the leak.

 

Cheers,

 

Matti

 

On Thu, 24 May 2018 at 07:43, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

 

photos on google drive:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

 

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

 

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?

Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

 

What should I do?

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C

Halifax, NS

 

 

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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Matti Airas via CnC-List]

Hi,

I'd replace the seacocks. Even if you'd never use them in regular
conditions, you're much better off if, say, a hose breaks and you need to
contain the leak.

Cheers,

Matti

On Thu, 24 May 2018 at 07:43, Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
> drain hoses.
>
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dan via CnC-List]

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
drain hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
them to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS
___

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