Re: Stus-List water pump seal
If its really snug, heating the receiving part can help ease the assembly of press-fit parts. I've done this using my bbq, to warm alloy housings etc, then press in the greased bushing or bearing. Dave -- Forwarded message -- From: Brian Davis To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bcc: Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:18:20 -0400 Subject: Re: Stus-List water pump seal Yes. I just rebuilt my water pump on a yanmar 3qm30h. It was not that hard actually. I ordered a major rebuild kit off Ebay. Once you clean the housing the new bearings will seem very snug going in, which is normal. Take a large socket that fits the outside rim of the bearing and use a hammer to tap it in. Don't kill it and ensure its aligned straight. It will pop in place. I used a little packing grease in bith the bearings to help seal it. I've just rebuilt the yanmar and you can see it all on Instagram. My account is nina1980cc Good luck, and feel free to email or call me with any questions. Regards, Brian brianwdavis...@gmail.com 954.892.1128 On Wed, May 27, 2020, 3:36 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Any one have experience pressing in a new seal > in the 3gm raw water pump. > > Thanks > > Gerry > Fianna 1985 35 MK3 > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List water pump seal
Yes. I just rebuilt my water pump on a yanmar 3qm30h. It was not that hard actually. I ordered a major rebuild kit off Ebay. Once you clean the housing the new bearings will seem very snug going in, which is normal. Take a large socket that fits the outside rim of the bearing and use a hammer to tap it in. Don't kill it and ensure its aligned straight. It will pop in place. I used a little packing grease in bith the bearings to help seal it. I've just rebuilt the yanmar and you can see it all on Instagram. My account is nina1980cc Good luck, and feel free to email or call me with any questions. Regards, Brian brianwdavis...@gmail.com 954.892.1128 On Wed, May 27, 2020, 3:36 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Any one have experience pressing in a new seal > in the 3gm raw water pump. > > Thanks > > Gerry > Fianna 1985 35 MK3 > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List water pump seal
I had challenges in disassembly. Look at a drawing of the components first, there are circlips on the shaft in an unusual location. The shaft won't come out if they're in place. On Wed, May 27, 2020, 15:36 Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Any one have experience pressing in a new seal > in the 3gm raw water pump. > > Thanks > > Gerry > Fianna 1985 35 MK3 > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List water pump seal
Gerry, When pressing in a new lip seal there are a couple of things to look for. first make sure the seal is orientated correctly, the open side (side with spring) should face the liquid second I use a socket that covers the seal completely, I invert the socket and then insert an extension and drive the seal in carefully trying to make sure it goes in straight. Lubricate the shaft before installing into the new seal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Bh9I2E7HGI On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 12:36 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Any one have experience pressing in a new seal > in the 3gm raw water pump. > > Thanks > > Gerry > Fianna 1985 35 MK3 > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > -- Douglas Mountjoy 253-208-1412 Port Orchard YC, WA Rebecca Leah C LandFall 39 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List water pump seal
Any one have experience pressing in a new seal in the 3gm raw water pump. Thanks Gerry Fianna 1985 35 MK3 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water pump seal replacement
FYI, Depco Pump has lots of pump parts. http://www.depcopump.com/MarineCatalog-111/MarineCatalog111.html Dennis C. On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 1:31 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Raw water pumps are all basically the same. I think it can be done on your level, take your time and use your phones camera to document each step. When taking it apart lay the parts out in order of disassembly. Reassemble inreverse order. The parts break down is usually a good indication of how it all goes together. Just make sure that the seals go together with the springs away from each other. One seals out water the other oil. Clean the shaft with very fine sandpaper (400+ grit or red scotch bright)and lube the shaft with a light coating of grease during assembly. Small smooth groves are not critical. But there should be no sharp edges. The seals should be interchangeable. Check youtube for a video. They have them for everything. Sorry for jumping all over I am typing this on my phone. Good luck. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message-- *From: *Charlie Nelson via CnC-List *Date: *Thu, Aug 13, 2015 11:12 *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com; *Cc: *cenel...@aol.com; *Subject:*Stus-List Water pump seal replacement My Beta 28 HP diesel, circa 2001, has developed a sea water leak on the engine side/aft 'end' of the Jabasco (I think) pump which is driven directly by the engine, not by a belt. This engine has a primary coolant which is cooled by this water pump circulating sea water thru a heat exchanger. BTW, the front/forward side of the pump, which has a speed seal plate on it and from which the impeller can be changed, is not leaking at all. According to Beta NC (located fortunately about 15 minutes from my boat!), I need to replace the shaft seal(s?), assuming the shaft is not scored, etc. My interpretation of the exploded parts diagram is that the pump, once disconnected from the inlet and outlet hoses and block(?), should slide off the shaft, exposing the seals for removal and replacement. Murphy being a sailor, however, I have visions of the entire shaft either coming out or not being able to remove the pump without a wheel puller, etc. Although they claim it can be done without a diesel mechanic or yard involved, I am a little reluctant to do it since if I can't get it back together, I might not even be able to move the boat to the yard (about 1/4 mile away) since I might not have any secondary water cooling. Has anyone on the list done this for a Beta engine and if so, was it a reasonable job for what I like to call 'operator maintenance' or should it be attempted only by someone at the 'shop level' maintenance? I have looked on-line and none of the discussions are about doing this for a Beta--lots of stuff on Perkins, M-4, etc. Thanks, Charlie Nelson Water Phantom CC 36 XL/kcb cenel...@aol.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Water pump seal replacement
My Beta 28 HP diesel, circa 2001, has developed a sea water leak on the engine side/aft 'end' of the Jabasco (I think) pump which is driven directly by the engine, not by a belt. This engine has a primary coolant which is cooled by this water pump circulating sea water thru a heat exchanger. BTW, the front/forward side of the pump, which has a speed seal plate on it and from which the impeller can be changed, is not leaking at all. According to Beta NC (located fortunately about 15 minutes from my boat!), I need to replace the shaft seal(s?), assuming the shaft is not scored, etc. My interpretation of the exploded parts diagram is that the pump, once disconnected from the inlet and outlet hoses and block(?), should slide off the shaft, exposing the seals for removal and replacement. Murphy being a sailor, however, I have visions of the entire shaft either coming out or not being able to remove the pump without a wheel puller, etc. Although they claim it can be done without a diesel mechanic or yard involved, I am a little reluctant to do it since if I can't get it back together, I might not even be able to move the boat to the yard (about 1/4 mile away) since I might not have any secondary water cooling. Has anyone on the list done this for a Beta engine and if so, was it a reasonable job for what I like to call 'operator maintenance' or should it be attempted only by someone at the 'shop level' maintenance? I have looked on-line and none of the discussions are about doing this for a Beta--lots of stuff on Perkins, M-4, etc. Thanks, Charlie Nelson Water Phantom CC 36 XL/kcb cenel...@aol.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Water pump seal replacement
Raw water pumps are all basically the same. I think it can be done on your level, take your time and use your phones camera to document each step. When taking it apart lay the parts out in order of disassembly. Reassemble inreverse order. The parts break down is usually a good indication of how it all goes together. Just make sure that the seals go together with the springs away from each other. One seals out water the other oil. Clean the shaft with very fine sandpaper (400+ grit or red scotch bright)and lube the shaft with a light coating of grease during assembly. Small smooth groves are not critical. But there should be no sharp edges. The seals should be interchangeable. Check youtube for a video. They have them for everything. Sorry for jumping all over I am typing this on my phone. Good luck. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message--From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List Date: Thu, Aug 13, 2015 11:12To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: cenel...@aol.com;Subject:Stus-List Water pump seal replacement My Beta 28 HP diesel, circa 2001, has developed a sea water leak on the engine side/aft 'end' of the Jabasco (I think) pump which is driven directly by the engine,not by a belt. This engine has a primary coolant which is cooled by this water pump circulating sea water thru a heat exchanger. BTW, the front/forward side of the pump, whichhas a speed seal plate on it and from which the impeller can be changed, is not leaking at all. According to Beta NC (located fortunately about 15 minutes from my boat!), I need to replace the shaft seal(s?), assuming the shaft is not scored, etc. My interpretation of the exploded parts diagram is that the pump, once disconnected from the inlet and outlet hoses and block(?), should slide off the shaft,exposing the seals for removal and replacement. Murphy being a sailor, however, I have visions of the entire shaft either coming out or not being able to remove the pump without a wheel puller, etc. Although they claim it can be done without a diesel mechanic or yard involved, I am a little reluctant to do it since if I can't get it back together,I might not even be able to move the boat to the yard (about 1/4 mile away) since I might not have any secondary water cooling. Has anyone on the list done this for a Beta engine and if so, was it a reasonable job for what I like to call 'operator maintenance'or should it be attempted only by someone at the 'shop level' maintenance? I have looked on-line and none of the discussions are about doing this for a Beta--lots of stuff on Perkins, M-4, etc. Thanks, Charlie NelsonWater PhantomCC 36 XL/kcb cenel...@aol.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Water pump seal replacement
Seems like something I would attempt. You might find a selection of sockets and an extension to be a valuable alternative to a press for getting the seals in and out. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 13, 2015 2:12 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: My Beta 28 HP diesel, circa 2001, has developed a sea water leak on the engine side/aft 'end' of the Jabasco (I think) pump which is driven directly by the engine, not by a belt. This engine has a primary coolant which is cooled by this water pump circulating sea water thru a heat exchanger. BTW, the front/forward side of the pump, which has a speed seal plate on it and from which the impeller can be changed, is not leaking at all. According to Beta NC (located fortunately about 15 minutes from my boat!), I need to replace the shaft seal(s?), assuming the shaft is not scored, etc. My interpretation of the exploded parts diagram is that the pump, once disconnected from the inlet and outlet hoses and block(?), should slide off the shaft, exposing the seals for removal and replacement. Murphy being a sailor, however, I have visions of the entire shaft either coming out or not being able to remove the pump without a wheel puller, etc. Although they claim it can be done without a diesel mechanic or yard involved, I am a little reluctant to do it since if I can't get it back together, I might not even be able to move the boat to the yard (about 1/4 mile away) since I might not have any secondary water cooling. Has anyone on the list done this for a Beta engine and if so, was it a reasonable job for what I like to call 'operator maintenance' or should it be attempted only by someone at the 'shop level' maintenance? I have looked on-line and none of the discussions are about doing this for a Beta--lots of stuff on Perkins, M-4, etc. Thanks, Charlie Nelson Water Phantom CC 36 XL/kcb cenel...@aol.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
