Re: [Drakelist] 2 Pin Plugs

2011-12-23 Thread Ron
Pat,
Our listserve owner page has an interesting article by Tom Taylor about it.  
Second link here:

http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/technotes.html

73,
Ron WD8SBB


--- On Thu, 12/22/11, Patrick Jones ars.w7...@gmail.com wrote:

 From: Patrick Jones ars.w7...@gmail.com
 Subject: [Drakelist] 2 Pin Plugs
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Date: Thursday, December 22, 2011, 8:29 PM
 Hi and happy holidays,
 I need to find the 2 pin plugs that are used off the power
 supplies for keying an amp like a L-4B. Any ides??
 
 Thanks,
 Pat,W7EHM
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Speaking of breaking Glass...

2011-12-23 Thread Curt Nixon

Wow.

Yes, I had always heard the stories of that happening, but never saw 
one.  Mine is almost hard to see, it didn't cave in the surrounding 
glass--just a very slight stress crack and a little inverted pimple 
where the hole is.  Filaments still good.  Sweep tubeshate em even 
tho they have given me excellent service thru the years.


On 12/22/2011 9:19 PM, Jim Shorney wrote:

On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 12:54:59 -0500, Curt wrote:


It
got so hot, the glass melted and a hole was sucked thru the side without
breaking the rest of the tube.

I saw something similar years ago in a sweep that was pulled from one of those
horribly designed 11-Meter amps. The glass  had been sucked inward and melted
to the outside of the plate structure in one spot. It's been over 35 years ago,
but I think I recall that the vacuum actually held.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will 
learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] Help finding info about alternate FS4 (100 kHz reference version) by W6NBI

2011-12-23 Thread Henry Vredegoor

Hi All,

I followed the link in that other post to an archive of  Ham Radio Magazine.
This because I too was curious about  how the digital alternative for 
the Drake FS4  frequency synthesizer, as mentioned in this post, looked 
like in those days.


I had a very good time reading!
And also, browsing trough the rest of that copy of Ham Radio Magazine 
was nice, giving a good view on that era in Ham radio.

Thanks a lot for that link - I guess I will be reading a lot more there!

But.
I got really (historically) interested in that alternative for the FS4 
after reading
I know its design is very dated and nowadays there are far better 
solutions like integrated circuit DDS's etc. but still...


I searched the internet if I could find more about it.
I found a follow-up of the article, or better a letter in HRM from the 
author W6NBI, mentioning additional info and a version with a 100 kHz 
reference.

I could not find this additional info anywhere on the internet though.
I did find in a posting  from this list that the author had indicated 
not to be bothered anymore with questions about his (40+ years!) old 
design .

So my question is:

  Is there anybody on this list who has or knows where to find this 
additional info?


I hope somebody can help with this nice Drake history.  (kind of 
anyway) ;-)


73's,

Henry - PA0HJA


On 12/21/2011 3:16 PM, Robert Fish wrote:

Hi Guys,

I am not sure how good the print quality is, but the entire collection 
of HR magazine (or most of) has recently been made available for 
download in PDF or just about any format you chose here:


http://www.archive.org/search.php?query=collection%3Aham-radio-magazinesort=-publicdate 



By the way, 73 magazine archives are also available here:

http://www.archive.org/search.php?query=collection%3A73-magazinesort=-publicdate 



I have already spent a bunch of time searching around through this 
stuff. Lotsa fun.


73,

Bob  K6GGO

I think the discussion is now about the expanded preselector dial 
that came with the FS4.  HR magazine had home brew FS4 in Aug 1972 
issue.  That article  had a copy of the dial in print.  That might be 
where you can pick off a high resolution image if you have an origial.


I sold my incomplete set of HR mags when I purchased the entire PDF 
collection.  The PDF of the page that the dial is on is not that 
great.  OTOH you might be able to use it for a starting point to do 
image restoration and enhancement.


Aug 1972 - Ham Radio (Pg. 6)
Frequency Synthesizer for the Drake R-4 Receiver
Author: Stein, Robert S., W6NBI

Sorry if I misunderstood the thread.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Tue, 12/20/11, Jim Shorneyjshor...@inebraska.com  wrote:





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Re: [Drakelist] Help finding info about alternate FS4 (100 kHz reference version) by W6NBI

2011-12-23 Thread Ron
Henry,
I was in contact with Mr Stein, and am likely the poster of said found 
reference on this list.  He did send me the data electronically.  I thought I 
had a copy on an old backup/archive, but after spending several hours looking, 
it is not to be found.

As I recall the big thing was different buffering and/or filtering to reduce 
the 100KHz spurs.  

73,
Ron WD8SBB


--- On Fri, 12/23/11, Henry Vredegoor henry.vredeg...@gmail.com wrote:

 From: Henry Vredegoor henry.vredeg...@gmail.com
 Subject: [Drakelist] Help finding info about alternate FS4 (100 kHz reference 
 version) by W6NBI
 To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Date: Friday, December 23, 2011, 9:17 AM
 Hi All,
 
 I followed the link in that other post to an archive
 of  Ham Radio Magazine.
 This because I too was curious about  how the digital
 alternative for the Drake FS4  frequency synthesizer,
 as mentioned in this post, looked like in those days.
 
 I had a very good time reading!
 And also, browsing trough the rest of that copy of Ham
 Radio Magazine was nice, giving a good view on that era in
 Ham radio.
 Thanks a lot for that link - I guess I will be reading a
 lot more there!
 
 But.
 I got really (historically) interested in that alternative
 for the FS4 after reading
 I know its design is very dated and nowadays there are far
 better solutions like integrated circuit DDS's etc. but
 still...
 
 I searched the internet if I could find more about it.
 I found a follow-up of the article, or better a letter in
 HRM from the author W6NBI, mentioning additional info and a
 version with a 100 kHz reference.
 I could not find this additional info anywhere on the
 internet though.
 I did find in a posting  from this list that the
 author had indicated not to be bothered anymore with
 questions about his (40+ years!) old design .
 So my question is:
 
   Is there anybody on this list who has or
 knows where to find this additional info?
 
 I hope somebody can help with this nice Drake
 history.  (kind of anyway) 
    ;-)
 
 73's,
 
 Henry - PA0HJA
 
 
 On 12/21/2011 3:16 PM, Robert Fish wrote:
  Hi Guys,
  
  I am not sure how good the print quality is, but the
 entire collection of HR magazine (or most of) has recently
 been made available for download in PDF or just about any
 format you chose here:
  
  http://www.archive.org/search.php?query=collection%3Aham-radio-magazinesort=-publicdate
 
  
  By the way, 73 magazine archives are also available
 here:
  
  http://www.archive.org/search.php?query=collection%3A73-magazinesort=-publicdate
 
  
  I have already spent a bunch of time searching around
 through this stuff. Lotsa fun.
  
  73,
  
  Bob  K6GGO
  
  I think the discussion is now about the expanded
 preselector dial that came with the FS4.  HR magazine
 had home brew FS4 in Aug 1972 issue.  That
 article  had a copy of the dial in print.  That
 might be where you can pick off a high resolution image if
 you have an origial.
  
  I sold my incomplete set of HR mags when I
 purchased the entire PDF collection.  The PDF of the
 page that the dial is on is not that great.  OTOH you
 might be able to use it for a starting point to do image
 restoration and enhancement.
  
  Aug 1972 - Ham Radio (Pg. 6)
  Frequency Synthesizer for the Drake R-4 Receiver
  Author: Stein, Robert S., W6NBI
  
  Sorry if I misunderstood the thread.
  
  73,
  Ron WD8SBB
  
  --- On Tue, 12/20/11, Jim Shorneyjshor...@inebraska.com 
 wrote:
  
  
  
  
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[Drakelist] problem with deoxit

2011-12-23 Thread y...@aol.com
Today I put a totally dead R-4a on the bench,replaced the fuse and off she 
went. The rig was fairly clean considering its age. The rig lit up and got some 
audio out and all functions seemed to basically work. Cleaned the chassis of 
dust ,damp cloth  and proceeded to pull all the tubes and test,all were good. I 
took a emery board and cleaned all tube pins then wiped the pins with Deoxit 
and dried with a cloth, also cleaned all the wafer switch contacts with 
deoxit,using the tiny needle bottle  being VERY careful to keep the deoxit to 
the very small amount, also cleaned all the pots with the deoxit  spray for 
pots.
Any way let the rig sit for a few hours working all the switch's and pots. 
Reassembled the rig and powered up. The radio lite up and that was about all 
,nothing seemed to work, rechecked the tube install,all correct, put back on 
the bench flipped the rig over  and ALL the tube sockets and wafer switch's 
looked like they were flooded with deoxit. I was careful to use as Little as 
you could of the deoxit,while cleaning everything.  I then proceeded to clean 
EVERYTHING with 100 %alcohol, tube pins,sockets, all wafer switch's and 
pots,made sure everything was dry, using a hair drier. Put the rig back 
together and turned on,the R4A works as well as my B line receiver,even without 
a alignment.
  Has there been a change in Deoxit? I have used this procedure on lots of 
Boat anchors and up till now always worked fine. Can't believe the TINY amount 
I used, crawled all over everywhere I didn't want it to go. Unless someone else 
had used some other substance to clean before me and the the deoxit ,I haven't 
got a clue. Anyone else run across anything like this? The deoxit was brand new 
a week ago. I think I will star with the 100% alcohol,like I used to use.
everybody  have a Merry Christmas
dale wt4t
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Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit

2011-12-23 Thread Gary Poland
Dale
  I rarely use Deoxit in tube sockets unless I have reason to believe the 
sockets have oxidized and are causing issues. If you do use it in tube sockets 
its best to dip a round toothpick in Deoxit and insert that into the individual 
sockets, giving it several turns. I have also applied Deoxit directly to the 
tube pins themselves with a cotton swab then installed the tube in/out of the 
socket several times. I have never had a problem in almost 20 years of using 
Deoxit. You have to be careful in high impendence circuits involving tube 
sockets, you’ll create shorts.

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Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit

2011-12-23 Thread Dennis Monticelli
I have found that 100% DeOxit dries more slowly than the 5% stuff
because the latter is mostly carrier.  So allow a little extra time
before powering up, especially with pots.   A few hours should have
been enough, so it seems that you applied too much.  I almost always
use the 100% stuff but I avoid droplets.  Instead I apply the DeOxit
to one of those wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made
especially for electrical cleaning.  The Q tip then does double duty
of applicator and scrubber.  This works really well for wafer switches
and tube pins.  For socket pins, I use a wooden toothpick that is
coated with DeOxit.  Once again it serves as applicator and scrubber.
The Q tip and toothpick end up with a satisfying dark coloration of
oxides with this method.  Sufaces will glisten after cleaning but you
won't see any red pooling.

With DeOxit a little goes a very long way.  Mild scrubbing with a
rough absorbant surface such as wood or tightly woven Q tip physically
removes the dissolved oxides.

Dennis AE6C


On 12/23/11, y...@aol.com y...@aol.com wrote:
 Today I put a totally dead R-4a on the bench,replaced the fuse and off she
 went. The rig was fairly clean considering its age. The rig lit up and got
 some audio out and all functions seemed to basically work. Cleaned the
 chassis of dust ,damp cloth  and proceeded to pull all the tubes and
 test,all were good. I took a emery board and cleaned all tube pins then
 wiped the pins with Deoxit and dried with a cloth, also cleaned all the
 wafer switch contacts with deoxit,using the tiny needle bottle  being VERY
 careful to keep the deoxit to the very small amount, also cleaned all the
 pots with the deoxit  spray for pots.
 Any way let the rig sit for a few hours working all the switch's and
 pots. Reassembled the rig and powered up. The radio lite up and that was
 about all ,nothing seemed to work, rechecked the tube install,all correct,
 put back on the bench flipped the rig over  and ALL the tube sockets and
 wafer switch's looked like they were flooded with deoxit. I was careful to
 use as Little as you could of the deoxit,while cleaning everything.  I then
 proceeded to clean EVERYTHING with 100 %alcohol, tube pins,sockets, all
 wafer switch's and pots,made sure everything was dry, using a hair drier.
 Put the rig back together and turned on,the R4A works as well as my B line
 receiver,even without a alignment.
   Has there been a change in Deoxit? I have used this procedure on lots
 of Boat anchors and up till now always worked fine. Can't believe the TINY
 amount I used, crawled all over everywhere I didn't want it to go. Unless
 someone else had used some other substance to clean before me and the the
 deoxit ,I haven't got a clue. Anyone else run across anything like this? The
 deoxit was brand new a week ago. I think I will star with the 100%
 alcohol,like I used to use.
 everybody  have a Merry Christmas
 dale wt4t


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Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit

2011-12-23 Thread Jim Shorney
How I learned to be paranoid with cleaning agents:

When I was a mere teen-ager, I decided to clean the mode switch in my HW-101
with some contact cleaner that my brother had brought home from work. I hosed
the switch down well, waited a few minutes, and turned the rig on. The mode
switch smoked. Literally. Fortunately , the HW-101 was still in production at
that time, and I was able to get a new switch quickly and cheap. We don't have
that luxury today.

I learned an important lesson that day.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Fri, 23 Dec 2011 12:44:03 -0500, Curt wrote:

I do the same as Garyapply small amounts to the pins...easier to see 
how much you are applying...rather than putting it down the sockets.

On 12/23/2011 12:19 PM, Gary Poland wrote:

 You have to be 
 careful in high impendence circuits involving tube sockets, you'll 
 create shorts.


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit

2011-12-23 Thread Robert Fish

Is the lesson, never trust your older brother?

Bob  K6GGO

How I learned to be paranoid with cleaning agents:

When I was a mere teen-ager, I decided to clean the mode switch in my HW-101
with some contact cleaner that my brother had brought home from work. I hosed
the switch down well, waited a few minutes, and turned the rig on. The mode
switch smoked. Literally. Fortunately , the HW-101 was still in production at
that time, and I was able to get a new switch quickly and cheap. We don't have
that luxury today.

I learned an important lesson that day.

73

-Jim
NU0C




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Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit

2011-12-23 Thread Jim Shorney
On Fri, 23 Dec 2011 10:46:19 -0800, Robert Fish wrote:

Is the lesson, never trust your older brother?


No, I already knew that one ;)

Although he pobably should have learned to never let stuff like that lay around
where I could find it.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] Morse Key

2011-12-23 Thread Gypsymt34
Hi all,
Do we have any collectors of old morse straight keys in the group?
I suddenly find myself with a an original well used/abused  WW2, J41A  ( 
which is an unusual piece)  to dispose of.  This was from a 90+ yr  old lady, 
and I don't think she wanted to give it away, more like she's  disposing of 
things.  (scrounging ?) 
Carl wd8nhk___
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Re: [Drakelist] Morse Key

2011-12-23 Thread Richard Knoppow


- Original Message - 
From: gypsym...@aol.com

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2011 12:07 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] Morse Key



Hi all,
Do we have any collectors of old morse straight keys in 
the group?
I suddenly find myself with a an original well used/abused 
WW2, J41A  (
which is an unusual piece)  to dispose of.  This was from 
a 90+ yr  old lady,
and I don't think she wanted to give it away, more like 
she's  disposing of

things.  (scrounging ?)
Carl wd8nhk
I am a small collector. If you want to find out what 
its worth I would search ebay for closed auctions.


There is also a Morse Code list where you might get 
some help. I have no idea of the value of this thing.


http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/morsecode



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com


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Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit

2011-12-23 Thread Ken Winterling
In addition to the wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are
made especially for electrical cleaning mentioned by Dennis, AE6C, I also
use the brushes listed below.  A drop of DeoxIT on either goes a long way.

These brushes are great for cleaning 7  9 pin tube sockets:
http://www.gumbrand.com/interdental-brushes/products/gum-go-betweens-proxabrush-cleaners-wide/872rn/

These brushes are good for cleaning RCA connectors, 8 pin and other larger
tube sockets, etc:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-AB-50-/200-288

Ken
WA2LBI



On Fri, Dec 23, 2011 at 13:06, Dennis Monticelli 
dennis.montice...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have found that 100% DeOxit dries more slowly than the 5% stuff
 because the latter is mostly carrier.  So allow a little extra time
 before powering up, especially with pots.   A few hours should have
 been enough, so it seems that you applied too much.  I almost always
 use the 100% stuff but I avoid droplets.  Instead I apply the DeOxit
 to one of those wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made
 especially for electrical cleaning.  The Q tip then does double duty
 of applicator and scrubber.  This works really well for wafer switches
 and tube pins.  For socket pins, I use a wooden toothpick that is
 coated with DeOxit.  Once again it serves as applicator and scrubber.
 The Q tip and toothpick end up with a satisfying dark coloration of
 oxides with this method.  Sufaces will glisten after cleaning but you
 won't see any red pooling.

 With DeOxit a little goes a very long way.  Mild scrubbing with a
 rough absorbant surface such as wood or tightly woven Q tip physically
 removes the dissolved oxides.

 Dennis AE6C


 On 12/23/11, y...@aol.com y...@aol.com wrote:
  Today I put a totally dead R-4a on the bench,replaced the fuse and off
 she
  went. The rig was fairly clean considering its age. The rig lit up and
 got
  some audio out and all functions seemed to basically work. Cleaned the
  chassis of dust ,damp cloth  and proceeded to pull all the tubes and
  test,all were good. I took a emery board and cleaned all tube pins then
  wiped the pins with Deoxit and dried with a cloth, also cleaned all the
  wafer switch contacts with deoxit,using the tiny needle bottle  being
 VERY
  careful to keep the deoxit to the very small amount, also cleaned all the
  pots with the deoxit  spray for pots.
  Any way let the rig sit for a few hours working all the switch's and
  pots. Reassembled the rig and powered up. The radio lite up and that was
  about all ,nothing seemed to work, rechecked the tube install,all
 correct,
  put back on the bench flipped the rig over  and ALL the tube sockets and
  wafer switch's looked like they were flooded with deoxit. I was careful
 to
  use as Little as you could of the deoxit,while cleaning everything.  I
 then
  proceeded to clean EVERYTHING with 100 %alcohol, tube pins,sockets, all
  wafer switch's and pots,made sure everything was dry, using a hair drier.
  Put the rig back together and turned on,the R4A works as well as my B
 line
  receiver,even without a alignment.
Has there been a change in Deoxit? I have used this procedure on
 lots
  of Boat anchors and up till now always worked fine. Can't believe the
 TINY
  amount I used, crawled all over everywhere I didn't want it to go. Unless
  someone else had used some other substance to clean before me and the the
  deoxit ,I haven't got a clue. Anyone else run across anything like this?
 The
  deoxit was brand new a week ago. I think I will star with the 100%
  alcohol,like I used to use.
  everybody  have a Merry Christmas
  dale wt4t
 

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