[Elecraft] Stepper Motor

2005-03-30 Thread J F
Actually Vic, I think a few folks might be interested
in this topic on the reflector (for a while). I, too,
have a number of steppers and would like to use them
for remote tweaking of a phased array.

I do know there are several controller kits available
and easily found. The question seems to be, what kind
of stepper do you have and exactly how do you wish to
control it? The are two options that seem to be the
most flexible, using a Basic Stamp or a PIC. 

If you have something like the PIC-EL kit from AmQRP
already, then the PIC option may be the easiest to
work with first. From what I've read a lot of the
robot folks seem to like the stamp approach.

Look forward to reading some other input, and maybe
some practical advice.
cheers,
Julius
n2wn


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 10:31:12 -0800
From: Vic Rosenthal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] OT - stepper motor question
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
format=flowed

I just know someone here can help me!  Please reply
off-reflector.

I recently had the opportunity to take apart a big old
Ricoh copy machine.  I recovered all kinds of neat
mechanical and electrical parts, inclucing 
bunches of solenoids, motors, etc.

One of the coolest is a motor marked 55SPM-25D5A
AX050032 30V 6.5 [ohms symbol]. Google gets nothing on
either of these numbers.

It has 6 wires coming out of it.  On the basis of
this, and the 'coggy' feel when I turn the shaft, I
think that it is a permanent-magnet unipolar stepper
motor.

I want to build a remotely tuned very QRO L-network
antenna tuner (I already have a large rotary inductor
and capacitor).  What I want to do is use this stepper
to turn the capacitor to preset positions.  Once the
capacitor is set, I will be able to drive the inductor
with a simple geared motor and just tune for lowest
SWR.

Reading material on stepper motor control systems has
my head spinning! Is 
there some kind of simple off-the-shelf controller
that I can get that will do most of the work?  What I
would REALLY like would be to just turn a local knob 
to adjust the capacitor (sort of like the way a selsyn
acts), but there may be other approaches.

-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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[Elecraft] T1 Cheat Sheet

2005-03-30 Thread Dennis Payton
Although the T1's info menu is very simple, I have a way of forgetting 
things, so I stuck a little cheat sheet to the underside of the battery 
compartment lid in order to prevent any future confusion.


I cut a large address label to 2 x 7/8, then made a small vertical chart, 
identifying each parameter. I also decided it was a good place to put my 
name  call in case I lose this little thing. Before sticking it to the lid, 
I cut a piece of clear laminate just slightly larger and put over it.


Denny PaytonN9JXY
Auburn, IN 



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Re: AW: [Elecraft] KX-1 switches - anyone else having problems?

2005-03-30 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
The wobble itself is normal, but I have the skipping every now and then 
too.  Mine either loops (1-2-3-1-2-3) or skips (0-2-4-7-8), but not 
often enough to make me want to replace the encoder yet.  I think I 
damaged the encoder in a backpack, as I had to replace the pots in the 
past.  I tried to show it to Wayne N6KR but it wouldn't fail then.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
One  thing I have noticed on the KX1 is that the shaft encoder is a tad 
flaky  ... sometimes I'll be tuning downward and the freq goes up one 
or two  numbers in the least significant position.  It sort of depends 
on how  you hold
the knob.  A little pressure toward the top will increase the 
flakiness, toward the bottom will cure it.

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RE: [Elecraft] again: CAL tPa problem

2005-03-30 Thread Marcus Busch [DL1EKC]
Don,

 If you can record and report the conditions (band, operational data before the
 occurrance, etc.) you observe each time it happens, you may be helping others
 and the real cause just might be found and corrected.

this is my problem. It seems there are no specific conditions to trigger 
this behaviour.

The effect seems to be ...

- band independent
- VSWR independent (but never happened with a dummy connected)
- only happens during high power keydown times

About one second before tPa jumps to 255 (PA HOT) the sidetone becomes 
garbled (some kind of pulsing noise or maybe short interruptions in the 
sidetone). Maybe the garbling is caused by AuxBus activity during 
transmit, overloading the main MCU ?

If I'm quick and do stop my transmission immediately, K2/KPA100 stay fine. 
But if I'm late PA HOT comes up and locks the unit. tPA calibration then 
has to be re-done.

Once a while ago I set up my oscilloscope connected to the AuxBus to see, 
whether the KPA100 receives a command to reset tPa, or the KPA100 resets 
the value autonomously. Unfortunately the error didn't happen during the 
testing period.

The last four months nothing happened, last weekend however tPa was reset 
two times within hours. No changes in my station setup were done 
beforehand.

I know the above information doesn't help much, but I can't find the 
system behind the effect. I think some more in-depth knowledge of the 
design is necessary, especially about the AuxBus communication regarding 
the CAL tPa procedure.

I hope one of the experts here can solve this one day.

VY 73 de Marcus, DL1EKC

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[Elecraft] ECN/30 - New UTC time

2005-03-30 Thread Daniel Reynolds
Just a reminder that the ECN/30 will be meeting Thursday at 8E/7C/6M/5P (0100
UTC Friday). I've moved to a later hour to accomodate for the later local
sunset (propagation). It will have the added advantage of allowing those who
live in the west to check in after they get home from work. We will try to keep
this 0100z time slot through the DST time shift this weekend - so next week, it
will be Thursday 9E/8C/7M/6P (0100 UTC Friday).

Due to the low power nature of the net (and net control), our frequency is
flexible. We will meet on 10.1x2.7 or 10.1x7.2 - depending on QRM. If we get
bumped off the frequency we started on, look for net control calling on
another.

Turn out has been pretty low for the last month. Hopefully with the later hour,
we'll have more folks check in.

73,
Daniel AA0NI
Oklahoma City
K2 #3421

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[Elecraft] Low power in tune with ssb module

2005-03-30 Thread Chris

Humble Pie time,

I previously sought advice from the list regarding low power output from 
my K2 in Tune mode, and I later found also in CW mode. This only 
occurred when the SSB module was installed.


After much investigation of the SSB module, rechecking component 
location etc.. I had a relapse to normality from dyslexic mode and found 
RP3 and 5 were in each others locations.


A quick swap back and everything was fine.

That explained why my mic gain seemed a bit high too 

All is well now. I had plenty of opportunity to play over the weekend 
while the CQ WPX contest was on. I made about 80 contacts (32 countries 
I think it was) during the contest just playing with the K2, trying 
different levels of audio compression etc.. and checking the effect on 
the pile-up busting ability. Often got in first time, the VP8 prefix 
helps there, but the DX does have to hear it!


I built the DSP module on Sunday night and installed it on Monday. 
That's quite impressive. It'll take me a while to get it set up for my 
ear I guess.


73 Chris - VP8BKF



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[Elecraft] Looking for 40m RF amp design for my K2

2005-03-30 Thread Andrew Moore
I'm looking for designs for an RF amp for my K2.  Can anyone point me to
a design?  I plan to use it for CW only, 40 meters only, and roughly 75
watts output.  Solid state preferred but not required.  I'd like to keep
it external to my K2 so I can keep the K2 in its QRP flavor.

Thanks,
--Andrew, NV1B, CFO 963


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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for 40m RF amp design for my K2

2005-03-30 Thread Mike W
http://www.communication-concepts.com/hf_amplifiers.htm
should be of some interest to you
--  


On 30 Mar 2005 at 10:18, Andrew Moore wrote:

 I'm looking for designs for an RF amp for my K2.  Can anyone point me
 to a design?  I plan to use it for CW only, 40 meters only, and
 roughly 75 watts output.  Solid state preferred but not required.  I'd
 like to keep it external to my K2 so I can keep the K2 in its QRP
 flavor.
 
 Thanks,
 --Andrew, NV1B, CFO 963
 
 
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[Elecraft] K1 - 6 bands simultaneously?

2005-03-30 Thread david feldman
This is probably FAQ, but I'm curious if/how the K1 is set up for 6 bands 
simultaneously (basically a K1-4 with an extra 2-band filter module.) I'd 
really like to find a way not to have to open the rig to switch between band 
sets, and would like to have access to 80 and 15/17 along with the core K1-4 
bands. Just a quick look it seems internally like a wider version of the 
K1-4 board (extending towards the front panel) would make it possible to 
host the extra K1-2 (along presumably with the supporting firmware to drive 
relays on both modules.) I'm fairly new to the list and product so if this 
has been discussed before, please excuse the noise.


73 Dave WB0GAZ [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Elecraft] ECN/30 - Frequency

2005-03-30 Thread Daniel Reynolds
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 What does this mean for a frequency?  - 10.1x2.7 or 10.1x7.2
 Mike, NJ2OM

Hi Mike,

Excellent question - and hopefully my explanation will make sense for you and
others who are curious. The 'x' in 10.1x2.7 and 10.1x7.2 can stand for any
number that results in a legal operating frequency inside the 30m band. This
means that ECN/30 could meet on any one of the following frequencies:

10.102.7
10.107.2
10.112.7
10.117.2
10.122.7
10.127.2
10.132.7
10.137.2
10.142.7
10.147.2

I've found that I've been run off the net frequencies I've picked on 30m a few
times, so to make it easier to find the net and avoid QRM - I took a hint from
another member on the elecraft list and decided to pick frequencies that aren't
cardinal frequencies (e.g. frequencies that end in 5.0 or 0.0 like 10.115.0)
where you are likely to run into non-QRP ops with less than sensitive radios
when compared to the elecraft kit radios.

The first frequencies I tried one week were just randomly picked - but when I
realized 5 minutes before the net that week that I didn't remember what
frequencies I posted to the list, I decided to just pick something that was
easier to remember. Since many elecrafters are QRP ops, I figured that 72 was
easy to remember - and likewise - 27. That's why the ECN/30 net can meet on any
of the 30m frequencies that end in 2.7 or 7.2.

Also - because it is easy to get run off a frequency when running a QRP net, I
want others to know that we can very quickly re-establish the net on another
frequency that is pre-determined - that's why there's more than one net
frequency - in case the frequency is in use - or in case a less than
'sensitive' operator, digital station, or DX/pileup runs us off the frequency
we are trying to use.

I hope this explains my reasoning and makes it easier for everyone to find the
net.

72/73,
Daniel AA0NI
Oklahoma City
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for 40m RF amp design for my K2

2005-03-30 Thread thom2
I was wondering of anyone has built the amp shown at the link below.  It had my 
interest for a while until it's power requirements were pointed out to me as 
being a drawback, price-wise.

Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103
 -- Original message --
From: Mike W [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://www.communication-concepts.com/hf_amplifiers.htm
 should be of some interest to you
 --  
 
 
 On 30 Mar 2005 at 10:18, Andrew Moore wrote:
 
  I'm looking for designs for an RF amp for my K2.  Can anyone point me
  to a design?  I plan to use it for CW only, 40 meters only, and
  roughly 75 watts output.  Solid state preferred but not required.  I'd
  like to keep it external to my K2 so I can keep the K2 in its QRP
  flavor.
  
  Thanks,
  --Andrew, NV1B, CFO 963
  
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for 40m RF amp design for my K2

2005-03-30 Thread John D'Ausilio
Look at the Class E designs .. cheap transistors, switching power
supplies, easy to build

de John/W1RT


On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 10:18:27 -0500, Andrew Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I'm looking for designs for an RF amp for my K2.  Can anyone point me to
 a design?  I plan to use it for CW only, 40 meters only, and roughly 75
 watts output.  Solid state preferred but not required.  I'd like to keep
 it external to my K2 so I can keep the K2 in its QRP flavor.
 
 Thanks,
 --Andrew, NV1B, CFO 963
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for 40m RF amp design for my K2

2005-03-30 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 30/03/05 17:03:47 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I was  wondering of anyone has built the amp shown at the link below.  It had 
my  interest for a while until it's power requirements were pointed out to me 
as  being a drawback, price-wise.



---
 
Check Motorola designs AN762 and EB63 on the given website.
 
Both of these are designed to run from 12 to 14V DC at maybe something like  
22A, so cannot understand the power supply problem. There are suitable power  
supplies available relatively cheaply for this in abundance. Believe the 
classic  design AN762 which is the basis of the linear amplifier in most HF 
100W  
transmitters is featured in ARRL publications and is described in detail in the 
 RSGB Radio Communications handbook.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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[Elecraft] Re: Stepper Motor

2005-03-30 Thread Vic Rosenthal

J F wrote:


Actually Vic, I think a few folks might be interested
in this topic on the reflector (for a while). I, too,
have a number of steppers and would like to use them
for remote tweaking of a phased array.

I do know there are several controller kits available
and easily found. The question seems to be, what kind
of stepper do you have and exactly how do you wish to
control it? The are two options that seem to be the
most flexible, using a Basic Stamp or a PIC. 


I've received a great deal of input from folks on the reflector.  What I have is 
a unipolar motor, which turns out to have been manufactured by Panasonic.  I 
also have since removed various other steppers from old disk drives.  I've 
ordered a driver kit from http://www.electronickits.com for $23, and there is 
one offered for $13 at http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/QK179.


I think I am not going to try to control it with a microprocessor at first.  My 
L-network tuner will have a rotary inductor and variable capacitor, and possibly 
a relay to switch in a fixed capacitor.  I will first try to set it up so it can 
be tuned remotely using switches, buttons, possibly an encoder, etc.  I will 
also provide some kind of position feedback to help me find preset positions 
quickly.  If I'm successful, then I will think about automatically finding 
presets or even tuning to minimize SWR.


Controllers are available that interface directly to a PC.  One possible 
application would be to completely control a remote K2 -- including the RF and 
AF gain controls -- from a PC.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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[Elecraft] z5 resonator leads

2005-03-30 Thread jon howe

Hi folks:
The excitement is building.
K2 s/n 3460 and I have made it as far as page 46.
Who would have thought that an instruction manual would be such a page
turner?
During Alignment and Test, Part 1 Info Code 080 pointed me to a
problem with the Z5 ceramic resonator: I forgot to put it in.
Three solder joints and one hard reset later, it's page 47 and beyond,
but I am reminded why I missed that step in the first place.
It's because I meant to ask you guys:
What do I do with the leads of Z5?  Do I clip them, or leave them alone?
For some reason I got it in my mind that they must not be disturbed.
BTW, thanks to all who replied, on and off list, to my r18/r19 query.
Indeed, the headers that came with KAF2 accept jumper leads, thus
sparing me four desoldering maneuvers.
jh

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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Turkey Point Lighthouse ARLHS USA-857 on Thursday

2005-03-30 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

Due to battery limitations and bad band conditions, I will focus my
effort on cw. I will operate ssb, but mostly cw. Look for me on the
following frequencies:

CW:   7.040mhz and 14.060mhz  (5w)
SSB:  7.270mhz and 14.270mhz  (10w)

Remember that if you work WA3WSJ, you are eligible to receive a special
8.5 x 11 Turkey Point Lighthouse Photo Collage! Just send me a qsl
card with USA-857 on the card or envelope - NO SASE.  

Antenna: VBWFPA
Rig:Elecraft K2
Key:   AT Paddle

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ
ARLHS # 983


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Re: [Elecraft] z5 resonator leads

2005-03-30 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 30/03/05 17:45:28 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

What do  I do with the leads of Z5?  Do I clip them, or leave them  alone?



-
 
The usual rule is if the component wire ends stick out chop 'em  off.
 
It can pay dividend in avoiding shorts sometimes and with Z5 there is  
nothing that would be adversely affected by doing this.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] z5 resonator leads

2005-03-30 Thread G3VVT
After you have you have soldered Z5 into the correct place on the PCB trim  
the free wire ends as normal as with most other components.
 
Just to avoid any confusion!
 
Bob, G3VVT
 
 
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FW: [Elecraft] ECN/30 - Frequency

2005-03-30 Thread Dan Barker
K.I.S.S.

Why not choose:

10,102.7
10,103.7
10,104.7
10,105.7
10,106.7
10,107.7
10,108.7
10,109.7.

Then, you tune in the net (at 10Hz) 10,102.70, and then set the rate to
1KHz. Each VFO step is another freq. Very little dial twiddling needed to
QSY up one, two, three or so channels.

Once you've zero-beat the group on any freq (at 10Hz rate), going back to
1KHz rate will keep them zero-beat (if you pick the right channel.

You may expand or modify the list, but please leave everything right of the
radix alone.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Daniel Reynolds
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 11:01 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ECN/30 - Frequency


--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 What does this mean for a frequency?  - 10.1x2.7 or 10.1x7.2
 Mike, NJ2OM

Hi Mike,

Excellent question - and hopefully my explanation will make sense for you
and
others who are curious. The 'x' in 10.1x2.7 and 10.1x7.2 can stand for any
number that results in a legal operating frequency inside the 30m band. This
means that ECN/30 could meet on any one of the following frequencies:

10.102.7
10.107.2
10.112.7
10.117.2
10.122.7
10.127.2
10.132.7
10.137.2
10.142.7
10.147.2

I've found that I've been run off the net frequencies I've picked on 30m a
few
times, so to make it easier to find the net and avoid QRM - I took a hint
from
another member on the elecraft list and decided to pick frequencies that
aren't
cardinal frequencies (e.g. frequencies that end in 5.0 or 0.0 like
10.115.0)
where you are likely to run into non-QRP ops with less than sensitive radios
when compared to the elecraft kit radios.

The first frequencies I tried one week were just randomly picked - but when
I
realized 5 minutes before the net that week that I didn't remember what
frequencies I posted to the list, I decided to just pick something that was
easier to remember. Since many elecrafters are QRP ops, I figured that 72
was
easy to remember - and likewise - 27. That's why the ECN/30 net can meet on
any
of the 30m frequencies that end in 2.7 or 7.2.

Also - because it is easy to get run off a frequency when running a QRP net,
I
want others to know that we can very quickly re-establish the net on another
frequency that is pre-determined - that's why there's more than one net
frequency - in case the frequency is in use - or in case a less than
'sensitive' operator, digital station, or DX/pileup runs us off the
frequency
we are trying to use.

I hope this explains my reasoning and makes it easier for everyone to find
the
net.

72/73,
Daniel AA0NI
Oklahoma City
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FW: [Elecraft] z5 resonator leads

2005-03-30 Thread Dan Barker
The confusion would come from the warning not to trim the leads of the
relays. Trim ALL other leads.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 12:13 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] z5 resonator leads


After you have you have soldered Z5 into the correct place on the PCB trim
the free wire ends as normal as with most other components.

Just to avoid any confusion!

Bob, G3VVT


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RE: [Elecraft] Should You Built It? Not necessarily

2005-03-30 Thread Daniel Reynolds
There are (at least) three types of people on this list:

- those who take pride in what they build
- those who take pride in what they operate
- those who take pride in both

Count me in the third category. I thoroughly enjoyed the building process, and
have no fear of having to dig into my K2 if I need to fix it. In fact, I had to
fix it about 3-4 weeks after I finished it succesfully because my PLL crystal
was flaking out. It is my only HF transceiver, and will continue to remain so
until Elecraft releases something even better.

Would I ever part with my K2? No - because I built it (I happen to be attached
to #3421). Unless I was in dire financial need, I doubt I'd sell it, because it
is about the cheapest form of active 'entertainment' I own. When I bought the
K2, it was with the intention of it being my only radio for a very long time -
and it can go just about anywhere I need to go - home, car-camping, picnic
table portable - and it is an ideal field day radio (my favorite activity).

My 2 cents,
Daniel AA0NI

--- EricJ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
  I'm sorry, but the idea of bonding with inanimate objects is beyond my
 understanding.
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[Elecraft] Re: Stepper Motor

2005-03-30 Thread J F
Vic,
there was an article in QST a few years back on an
automatic antenna tuner that used steppers. The
feedback control used a basic stamp as I recall. It
was adaptable, if you want to write/modify code.

You may want to think about the rotary inductor. A
school of thought has it that they are slow beasts to
turn. Switching inductance in and out seems to be
faster and easier to control. If you're primarily a CW
op, switching is probably the simplest route to go. On
the other hand, if you do say CW/SSB/MARS a rotary
inductor makes more sense.

Thanks for the update!
Julius
n2wn

--- Vic Rosenthal [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 J F wrote:
 
  Actually Vic, I think a few folks might be
 interested
  in this topic on the reflector (for a while). I,
 too,
  have a number of steppers and would like to use
 them
  for remote tweaking of a phased array.
  
  I do know there are several controller kits
 available
  and easily found. The question seems to be, what
 kind
  of stepper do you have and exactly how do you wish
 to
  control it? The are two options that seem to be
 the
  most flexible, using a Basic Stamp or a PIC. 
 
 I've received a great deal of input from folks on
 the reflector.  What I have is 
 a unipolar motor, which turns out to have been
 manufactured by Panasonic.  I 
 also have since removed various other steppers from
 old disk drives.  I've 
 ordered a driver kit from
 http://www.electronickits.com for $23, and there
 is 
 one offered for $13 at
 http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/QK179.
 
 I think I am not going to try to control it with a
 microprocessor at first.  My 
 L-network tuner will have a rotary inductor and
 variable capacitor, and possibly 
 a relay to switch in a fixed capacitor.  I will
 first try to set it up so it can 
 be tuned remotely using switches, buttons, possibly
 an encoder, etc.  I will 
 also provide some kind of position feedback to help
 me find preset positions 
 quickly.  If I'm successful, then I will think about
 automatically finding 
 presets or even tuning to minimize SWR.
 
 Controllers are available that interface directly to
 a PC.  One possible 
 application would be to completely control a remote
 K2 -- including the RF and 
 AF gain controls -- from a PC.
 
 -- 
 73,
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
 
 

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[Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread Able2fly
How would one calculate the amplifier gain (in dB) required to go from one  
power level to another?  For example from 5W to 100W.  
 
K3UJ
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RE: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
dB = 10 log (P2/P1)
For your example of 5 watts to 100 watts, is an increase of 13.01029996 dB -
pardon the rounding but that is all the digits my calculator shows :).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 How would one calculate the amplifier gain (in dB) required to go
 from one
 power level to another?  For example from 5W to 100W.

 K3UJ


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Re: [Elecraft] z5 resonator leads

2005-03-30 Thread Paul Bruneau

On Mar 30, 2005, at 12:23 PM, Dan Barker wrote:


The confusion would come from the warning not to trim the leads of the
relays. Trim ALL other leads.


Even ICs??

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[Elecraft] z5 resonator leads and AGC voltage

2005-03-30 Thread Rolf Moberg, OH6KXL

Dan Barker wrote:

The confusion would come from the warning not to trim the leads of the
relays. Trim ALL other leads.


I have assembled control, front panel and first stage of rf board.

I didn't trim the IC's leads or resistor pack's leads. I don't know why :-)

What comes to testing, I have the same problem with other posters 
lately. If it can be called as a problem. I am not sure.


Mike Markowski wrote:
 result of a faulty (human!) memory.  I remeasured voltages just now at
 Control Board locations you measured and got these results:
   - U2 pin 5: maxes out at 3.792 Vif you believe that many
   significant figures.
   - U4 OUT:   7.88 V ... the culprit?

and finally Paul Bruneau (SN 4818) wrote:
 I just ran mine through those tests a few days ago and was slightly
 troubled to note that mine also maxed out just under the 8v. I think
 mine got up to 7.98.

My own (SN 4759) measurements with external DMM were as follows:
- U2 pint 5 max 3.79 V
- U4 OUT 7.9 V

I understand there is no big difference between 3.80V and 3.79V. 
However, when manual asks (page 47) to adjust R1 for a reading of 3.80V 
volts it seems peculiar not to have enough adjustment scale to achieve 
or exceed the required voltage.


Rolf Moberg
oh6kxl
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread S55M
dBm's

Just remember this (no maths:))) :
Every 3dB increase is power multiplied by 2 times (1W to 2W is 30dBm to
33dBm)
So 1W+3dB (1x2=2) is 2W+3dB (2x2=4)4W+3dB(4x2=8)8W and so on.
Every 10dB increase is power multiplied by 10 (1W to 10W is 30dBm to 40dBm
100W to 1KW is 50 dBm to 60 dBm the easy one HI)
And dont care abt digits on calcullator (try to see 0,5dB on Your S-meter or
ask someone on the band to change the power from 100W to 50W or from 10W to
5W (3dB) You will see practically no difference.
Why dBm? Because dBm is power related to 1mW=0dBm .

S55M-Adi


- Original Message - 
From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 8:23 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] OT: math question


 dB = 10 log (P2/P1)
 For your example of 5 watts to 100 watts, is an increase of 13.01029996
dB -
 pardon the rounding but that is all the digits my calculator shows :).

 73,
 Don W3FPR

  -Original Message-
 
  How would one calculate the amplifier gain (in dB) required to go
  from one
  power level to another?  For example from 5W to 100W.
 
  K3UJ


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Re: [Elecraft] Should You Built It? Not necessarily

2005-03-30 Thread Vic Rosenthal

EricJ wrote:


 I'm sorry, but the idea of bonding with inanimate objects is beyond my
understanding. 


I disagree.  My K2 is no. 709, and has been around for a few years.  Since I 
built it, I have taken it apart what seems to me a thousand times (probably it 
wasn't really quite so many).  I've fixed construction errors and made every 
modification (and unmade some of them) that could even slightly improve CW 
performance.  I've tried out other people's and my own ideas.  In doing so I 
have taken Wayne and Eric's radio and in a small way made it MY radio.


As far as learning, I didn't learn much by simply following the instructions to 
build it.  However, the process of tweaking it, making and evaluating 
modifications, etc., has been very educational.


Although I recognize its limitations (there are some) and wouldn't mind owning 
an Orion or an FT1KMP (with the required mods, of course), I don't think I will 
ever let the K2 go.  If this isn't bonding in some sense, I don't know what is.



If you want to build one, fine. But if you don't, get someone else to do it.
Either way, you end up with one of the best radios in its class to enjoy ham
radio. And that's the point.


And with that I completely agree.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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Re: [Elecraft] z5 resonator leads and AGC voltage

2005-03-30 Thread Paul Bruneau

On Mar 30, 2005, at 1:34 PM, Rolf Moberg, OH6KXL wrote:


My own (SN 4759) measurements with external DMM were as follows:
- U2 pint 5 max 3.79 V
- U4 OUT 7.9 V

I understand there is no big difference between 3.80V and 3.79V. 
However, when manual asks (page 47) to adjust R1 for a reading of 
3.80V volts it seems peculiar not to have enough adjustment scale to 
achieve or exceed the required voltage.


that was exactly why I was somewhat concerned. I was ALMOST there, but 
not quite. It was disconcerting to me that to get almost there, I had 
to fully crank the pot to its end stop.


When a manual tells me to adjust to a voltage, I like to be somewhere 
in the middle with my pot...otherwise it makes me wonder what I did 
wrong. I am still wondering :)


As for the alleged 5-10% tolerance of DMMs that one poster suggested, 
I'm skeptical. If they are that bad, then why doesn't the manual say to 
adjust to 3.8 volts since the hundredths digit must be totally 
meaningless.


In fact, I see that Fluke claims a .3% DC voltage accuracy of their 
basic 73/77 multimeters, so thinking the problem lies with my meter 
doesn't really cut it for me.


PB
K2 SN 4818
Just getting to the toroids and loving every minute

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread K6TFZ
 
In a message dated 3/30/2005 10:02:44 AM Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

How  would one calculate the amplifier gain (in dB) required to go from one   
power level to another?  For example from 5W to 100W.   



The formula is:  dB = 10 log (P2 / P1)
 
P2 / P1 = 100 / 5 = 20
 
log of 20 = 1.30103
 
10 times it = 13.0103
 
That's your answer: 13.0103 dB
 
Geoff, K6TFZ
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread thom2
Im with Adi on this one..i.e NO MATH!.  Although I'm 100% certain Don is 
correct, my fingers came with *about* a 12.6 dB increase. (I never did 
understand those loggers)
Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103

 -- Original message --
From: S55M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 dBm's
 
 Just remember this (no maths:))) :
 Every 3dB increase is power multiplied by 2 times (1W to 2W is 30dBm to
 33dBm)
 So 1W+3dB (1x2=2) is 2W+3dB (2x2=4)4W+3dB(4x2=8)8W and so on.
 Every 10dB increase is power multiplied by 10 (1W to 10W is 30dBm to 40dBm
 100W to 1KW is 50 dBm to 60 dBm the easy one HI)
 And dont care abt digits on calcullator (try to see 0,5dB on Your S-meter or
 ask someone on the band to change the power from 100W to 50W or from 10W to
 5W (3dB) You will see practically no difference.
 Why dBm? Because dBm is power related to 1mW=0dBm .
 
 S55M-Adi
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 8:23 PM
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] OT: math question
 
 
  dB = 10 log (P2/P1)
  For your example of 5 watts to 100 watts, is an increase of 13.01029996
 dB -
  pardon the rounding but that is all the digits my calculator shows :).
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
   -Original Message-
  
   How would one calculate the amplifier gain (in dB) required to go
   from one
   power level to another?  For example from 5W to 100W.
  
   K3UJ
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] z5 resonator leads and AGC voltage

2005-03-30 Thread Rolf Moberg, OH6KXL

Paul Bruneau wrote:

When a manual tells me to adjust to a voltage, I like to be somewhere in 
the middle with my pot...otherwise it makes me wonder what I did wrong. 
I am still wondering :)


Indeed.

In fact after remeasuring U2 pin 5 voltage I got 3.78 volts. I am not 
sure whether 3.79 volts is my fault or real previous result. Little 
difference in any case. I'll remove control panel and check the RP's 
connections and R1 connections later.


Distortion from the kitchen behind the owen is now about 59 + 20dB. It's 
time to close down for this evening.


Rolf
oh6kxl
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[Elecraft] QSY to Belle Ile

2005-03-30 Thread C. GONDARD
Hello dear elicrafter's,

I will stay from april 10th to april 23th on Belle Ile island for some
holidays with all the family for holidays.
This island is located near the south west coast of Britany. The island is
characterized by a very mild climate (the Gulf Stream is flowing nerby),
sandy beaches, high cliffs and a many birds nesting in the cliffs. We plan
to have active holidays with walkings and bicycles.

I hope also to have some spare time for ham radio ... The IOTA reference is
EU-048. I will have my K2 + KPA100, my K1 and a 2x10 m doublet with a ladder
line , a 1/4 balun and the KAT100.

Most of the activity will be on CW ; 18 and 14 mhz will be prefered bands
for DX, but I will be on 3.5 , 7 and 10 Mhz too for europeans

special QSL will be send to everybody via the buro.

I hope to hear many of you !

73 de

Chris / F6FTB
K2#644, K1#1605 and 1998;, KX1#141

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[Elecraft] LSB/USB Audio

2005-03-30 Thread M1MGD1
Hello all.
I have been setting up my transmit audio on K2 #4785  lsb/usb,ok here  is 
what ive noticed my usb reports on the conventional usb bands 20/15/10 are  
great 
no problems also reports on lsb conventional bands 80/40 are also  great.
When I listen to usb on 80/40 it seems muffled and also the same is true  for 
lsb on 20/15/10 ok this is not a issue as I keep to the lsb/usb band  
conventions but can someone tell me why the audio is muffled in this way is it  
desighned to do this.
 
 
 
M1MGD G-QRP  11355
Elecraft K1 #1532
K2  #4785..72/73..
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FW: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread Dan Barker
K.I.S.S.

10db = 10 times
 3db =  2 times

Add Products. Guess anything else. No calculators.

The original question, 5:100:
  5:10  = 2x  = 3db
 10:100 = 10x = 10db
Sum: 13db.

Example:

 25w up to 600.

 3db is 50w
13db is 500w
600 is a little bit more. Call it 14db.

Example: 12W to 80W

24 is 3db
48 is 6db
96 is 9db.

So 8 is a fine guess.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 2:21 PM
To: S55M; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question


Im with Adi on this one..i.e NO MATH!.  Although I'm 100% certain Don is
correct, my fingers came with *about* a 12.6 dB increase. (I never did
understand those loggers)
Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103

 -- Original message --
From: S55M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 dBm's

 Just remember this (no maths:))) :
 Every 3dB increase is power multiplied by 2 times (1W to 2W is 30dBm to
 33dBm)
 So 1W+3dB (1x2=2) is 2W+3dB (2x2=4)4W+3dB(4x2=8)8W and so on.
 Every 10dB increase is power multiplied by 10 (1W to 10W is 30dBm to 40dBm
 100W to 1KW is 50 dBm to 60 dBm the easy one HI)
 And dont care abt digits on calcullator (try to see 0,5dB on Your S-meter
or
 ask someone on the band to change the power from 100W to 50W or from 10W
to
 5W (3dB) You will see practically no difference.
 Why dBm? Because dBm is power related to 1mW=0dBm .

 S55M-Adi


 - Original Message -
 From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 8:23 PM
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] OT: math question


  dB = 10 log (P2/P1)
  For your example of 5 watts to 100 watts, is an increase of 13.01029996
 dB -
  pardon the rounding but that is all the digits my calculator shows :).
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
   -Original Message-
  
   How would one calculate the amplifier gain (in dB) required to go
   from one
   power level to another?  For example from 5W to 100W.
  
   K3UJ
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread Tom Hammond

At 12:01 PM 3/30/05, you wrote:

How would one calculate the amplifier gain (in dB) required to go from one
power level to another?  For example from 5W to 100W.


10 log(P2/P1) = 10 log(100/5) = 10 log(20) = 10 (1.30103) = 13.0103dB

An easy 'rule of thumb' way to get a good idea of such levels
is to remember that:

  a power INcrease of 2  = approx. +3dB change
  a power DEcrease of 2  = approx. -3dB change

  a power INcrease of 10 = +10dB
  a power DEcrease of 10 = -10dB

So, to go from 5W to 10W output, you have 3dB GAIN
to go from 10W to 100W, you have 10dB gain

Since dB's can be added, going from 5W to 100W = 3db + 10 dB = 13dB

Similarly, if you went from 2W to 800W...

  From 2W to 4W (first doubling of power) =  +3dB
  From 4W to 8W (2nd doubling of power)   =  +3dB
  From 8W to 800W (increase of 10X)   = +10dB
  ---
   Total power increase in dB = +16dB

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] LSB/USB Audio

2005-03-30 Thread Gregg R. Lengling
Remember that your filters are also used on transmit (OPT1).  So go back and 
redo your filter aligment per the book and preferably using Spectrograph. 
This is most likely where your problem lies.


Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Un-Retired
K2/100 SN 3075
http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 1:28 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] LSB/USB Audio



Hello all.
I have been setting up my transmit audio on K2 #4785  lsb/usb,ok here  is
what ive noticed my usb reports on the conventional usb bands 20/15/10 are 
great

no problems also reports on lsb conventional bands 80/40 are also  great.
When I listen to usb on 80/40 it seems muffled and also the same is true 
for

lsb on 20/15/10 ok this is not a issue as I keep to the lsb/usb band
conventions but can someone tell me why the audio is muffled in this way 
is it

desighned to do this.



M1MGD G-QRP  11355
Elecraft K1 #1532
K2  #4785..72/73..
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Re: [Elecraft] z5 resonator leads

2005-03-30 Thread Stuart Rohre
Never trim precut to length leads such as ICs and relays, and resistor
packs, or crystals.

These have just enough extension thru the normal fillet of solder to not be
a problem, and to provide a place to clip on for troubleshooting probes.

Trimming short leads that were not designed to be trimmed, or the thicker
leads on relays, inductor cans, crystals, ICs, resistor packs etc. runs the
risk of fracturing the anchor point internal to the package.  Always hold on
to the lead being cut off to avoid shock of cutting from launching an
arrow in an uncontrolled direction.  This also buffers the shock of
cutting the lead from affecting the component.

To summarize, the only leads to trim are individual resistors and capacitors
having the thin solder coated leads.

Look at a few commercial built boards before you willy nilly start to build
something, if you are not experienced at electronics assembly practices.

Check out the library at any Engineering college and likely you can find
texts on assembly practices; or check for military specifications on the web
for assembly practices.

73,
Stuart
K5KVH



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[Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread Able2fly
I'd hoped that the responses would be far more interesting than  merely 
looking up the answer, and I was NOT disappointed. Thanks,  all! 
 
Bill  K3UJ

   -Original Message-
  
How would one calculate the amplifier gain (in dB) required to go
from one
   power level to another?  For example  from 5W to 100W.
  
K3UJ

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[Elecraft] Fillet or not?

2005-03-30 Thread Able2fly
 
There are those who advocate no fillet when soldering plated thru  holes.  Is 
an obvious fillet in that instance a sign of too much  solder?
 
K3UJ
 
===

Never  trim precut to length leads such as ICs and relays, and resistor
packs, or  crystals.

These have just enough extension thru the normal fillet of  solder to not be
a problem


 
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RE: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread Dan Barker
I ran into a brain-teaser once, that had me baffled for hours (I won't say
how many). Finally, I called my sister, the Rocket Scientist (actually,
we're not _Rocket_ scientists - That's a quote from her husband) and asked
her.

She and Paul spent a few minutes on the problem, figured it out, but it was
such a trivial answer they threw it away. Since I'd spent so long on the
Question, I gave her about a week and then I called back. Luckily they'd not
taken out the trash, so she easily found their notes and read them to me.

I won't spoil it for you 'crafters.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

Problem: An alley has a 20-foot ladder across it, in the left lower corner
and leaning on the right wall. There also is a 30-foot ladder, from the
right lower corner leaning on the left wall. The laders cross at 10 feet
high.

How wide is the alley?

Usual conventions: alley is all right angles, ladders have no thickness nor
bends, blah blah blah...

This should make some juices flow out there. Just simple geometry, or is it?


PS: Iteration is cheating. Sorry Issac.


snip
 the responses would be far more interesting than merely looking up the
answer
/snip

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RE: [Elecraft] LSB/USB Audio

2005-03-30 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
If the transmit audio is fine, then maybe he doesn't want to mess with the
BFO settings for position FL1. 

Only the BFO settings for FL1 position are used for transmit, regardless of
what filter position (FL1, 2, 3 or 4) is being used in receive. 

Have you tried other FL positions? You can adjust the BFO frequencies for
SSB FL2, FL3 and FL4 to adjust the sound of received signals without
affecting your transmit audio at all. Select OPT1 for each filter, then
adjust the BFO frequency for the audio quality you want.

Since your transmit audio reports are FB, I'd suggest a starting point would
be to set FL2 to use the SSB OPT1 filter and set the BFO frequencies
identical to FL1. Now FL2 should sound just like FL1. With your frequency
probe in your BFO test point, you can tune in an SSB signal, go into CAL FIL
in your menu and, while listening to a signal on the air, adjust the BFO
frequency for the best sounding signal. Repeat the process on a signal on a
band using the opposite sideband.

This will not affect your transmit audio at all. 

You can do the same with FL3 and FL4 if you like a variety of positions.
It's sort of like passband tuning. Or you can switch FL3 and FL4 to the
variable bandwidth (CW) filter and set it for narrower bandwidths to provide
better QRM rejection in tough conditions, etc. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Remember that your filters are also used on transmit (OPT1).  So go back and

redo your filter aligment per the book and preferably using Spectrograph. 
This is most likely where your problem lies.

Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Un-Retired

- Original Message - 
 Hello all.
 I have been setting up my transmit audio on K2 #4785  lsb/usb,ok here  
 is what ive noticed my usb reports on the conventional usb bands 
 20/15/10 are great no problems also reports on lsb conventional bands 
 80/40 are also  great. When I listen to usb on 80/40 it seems muffled 
 and also the same is true for
 lsb on 20/15/10 ok this is not a issue as I keep to the lsb/usb band
 conventions but can someone tell me why the audio is muffled in this way 
 is it
 desighned to do this.



 M1MGD G-QRP  11355


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[Elecraft] Re: Fillet or not?

2005-03-30 Thread Stuart Rohre
Absolutely do not leave out the fillet.  If you have a lead that sticks out
of a hole, you should have a fillet around it.  That is a requirement of the
NASA soldering course of years ago, but has not changed as far as I see in
modern assemblies.

The flush plated thru hole is OK for solder bond to a lead, but you lose the
ability to clip on a test lead there.  Also, if ever you have to remove the
component, the extension of the lead out the plated thru hole gives you
something to grab; to wiggle the lead and break the solder bonds while the
solder is wet.  Continued movement of the lead keeps it from reattaching as
the solder cools, and facilitates removing the old component.

I think having a test point is as important as any of the other reasons for
not cutting leads flush.  Besides, the board has leaded components that will
stick thru and should not be cut, (are not designed to be cut) as I
mentioned in the earlier post. Those automatically determining that some
leads protrude thru the bottom of the board.

Now anyone is free to do what they want, but if I got a unit in my shop
years ago to repair that had been assembled with leads cut flush, I would
have to charge more for the aggravation of working on it, or refuse to
service it.

In building electronics, you should always design, lay out, and assemble to
facilitate future repairs.  Unfortunately, much of today's consumer
electronics is built to throw away, but I doubt most hams would want to do
that with their kit when it has a simple failure that soldering in a new
component would fix.

I have followed the above in both design, modification, and selection of
professional science equipment for 45 years, and found that years after
something was obtained, attention to reparability saved the day when we had
to fix it.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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[Elecraft] USB/LSB Audio

2005-03-30 Thread M1MGD1
Thanks for the comments Ron.
Ok ive just revisited my posting i didn't make it clear that I am  monitoring 
my own recorded tx audio via recording with opt1 on rx/tx .  

M1MGD G-QRP  11355
Elecraft K1 #1532
K2  #4785..72/73..

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RE: [Elecraft] Fillet or not?

2005-03-30 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
There are those who advocate no fillet when soldering plated thru  holes.
Is 
an obvious fillet in that instance a sign of too much  solder?
 
K3UJ
 
===

With Elecraft's plated-through holes, it's at least a sign of more than
enough solder. When soldering boards without plated-through holes, it's
virtually impossible to have good solder flow without something of a fillet
because the solder only has the copper around the opening of the hole to
bond with. 

On Elecraft boards, if the lead is soldered *in* the hole, there's no need
at all for any fillet to rise above the hole. 

If you're having trouble making fillets when you solder, use a
smaller-diameter solder. For Elecraft boards, I never use anything bigger
than .031 and I prefer .025 diameter. 

It's not a big deal on most solder pads, but there are places where it can
cause real grief. A common one in the K2 is when soldering crystals. Excess
solder will form a fillet under the crystal where you can't see it. More
than one builder has agonized over a non-functioning rig until one of those
hidden fillets was found under a crystal shorting out the signal path. It
was a tough one to troubleshoot and was found only by removing the crystal,
cleaning off the excess solder, and re-installing it.

Other kits, like the KX1 and the T1, have some very close spacing in places
that require virtually no bump on the soldered side of some boards for the
unit to fit together and avoid shorts. 

Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread S55M
Yes math is beautifull (callculating needed space for 3d antennas HI.
But google can spare some time and paper.

:)
http://home.att.net/~numericana/answer/algebra.htm#quartic


- Original Message - 
From: Dan Barker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 10:22 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] OT: math question


 I ran into a brain-teaser once, that had me baffled for hours (I won't say
 how many). Finally, I called my sister, the Rocket Scientist (actually,
 we're not _Rocket_ scientists - That's a quote from her husband) and
asked
 her.

 She and Paul spent a few minutes on the problem, figured it out, but it
was
 such a trivial answer they threw it away. Since I'd spent so long on the
 Question, I gave her about a week and then I called back. Luckily they'd
not
 taken out the trash, so she easily found their notes and read them to me.

 I won't spoil it for you 'crafters.

 Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

 Problem: An alley has a 20-foot ladder across it, in the left lower corner
 and leaning on the right wall. There also is a 30-foot ladder, from the
 right lower corner leaning on the left wall. The laders cross at 10 feet
 high.

 How wide is the alley?

 Usual conventions: alley is all right angles, ladders have no thickness
nor
 bends, blah blah blah...

 This should make some juices flow out there. Just simple geometry, or is
it?


 PS: Iteration is cheating. Sorry Issac.


 snip
  the responses would be far more interesting than merely looking up the
 answer
 /snip

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread AD5MA
I always like to ask... Is this a trick question?

The way the problem is worded (and if I understand your geometry correctly)
implies an infinite number of solutions as long as the 20 foot ladder can
span the alley. Therefore, the width is anything less than or equal to 20
feet.

Al.

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Barker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 2:22 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] OT: math question


 I ran into a brain-teaser once, that had me baffled for hours (I won't say
 how many). Finally, I called my sister, the Rocket Scientist (actually,
 we're not _Rocket_ scientists - That's a quote from her husband) and
asked
 her.

 She and Paul spent a few minutes on the problem, figured it out, but it
was
 such a trivial answer they threw it away. Since I'd spent so long on the
 Question, I gave her about a week and then I called back. Luckily they'd
not
 taken out the trash, so she easily found their notes and read them to me.

 I won't spoil it for you 'crafters.

 Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

 Problem: An alley has a 20-foot ladder across it, in the left lower corner
 and leaning on the right wall. There also is a 30-foot ladder, from the
 right lower corner leaning on the left wall. The laders cross at 10 feet
 high.

 How wide is the alley?

 Usual conventions: alley is all right angles, ladders have no thickness
nor
 bends, blah blah blah...

 This should make some juices flow out there. Just simple geometry, or is
it?


 PS: Iteration is cheating. Sorry Issac.


 snip
  the responses would be far more interesting than merely looking up the
 answer
 /snip

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[Elecraft] Operating in Rome,Italy... Pointers?

2005-03-30 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi folks,

It looks like the K2 and I will get a free trip to Rome (the one in Italy) 
sometime soon courtesy of the employer. 

I have never operated in Europe before and would like some insights and tips 
you might have.

I will have power (220 and 120 VAC) and some room for a small antenna on a 
rooftop at our location. I own a Shakespeare AT-1011U 32 foot vertical but it's 
heavy and clumsy to travel with and needs a substantial mount.  I can easily 
send some 20 foot crappie poles along and find a way to secure them. The K2 has 
the ATU installed so it will tune just about anything.

I'd appreciate technical tips, but I'm also desperate for operating advice.

I could be leaving in a few days or a few weeks. Please share what you know.

Thanks in advance!

73,

Lonnie
NY2LJ
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RE: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread James C. Hall, MD
Hmmm ... never seen square root as O with dot-dot on top.

Jamie
WB4YDL

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of S55M
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 2:47 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

Yes math is beautifull (callculating needed space for 3d antennas HI.
But google can spare some time and paper.

:)
http://home.att.net/~numericana/answer/algebra.htm#quartic


- Original Message - 
From: Dan Barker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 10:22 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] OT: math question


 I ran into a brain-teaser once, that had me baffled for hours (I won't say
 how many). Finally, I called my sister, the Rocket Scientist (actually,
 we're not _Rocket_ scientists - That's a quote from her husband) and
asked
 her.

 She and Paul spent a few minutes on the problem, figured it out, but it
was
 such a trivial answer they threw it away. Since I'd spent so long on the
 Question, I gave her about a week and then I called back. Luckily they'd
not
 taken out the trash, so she easily found their notes and read them to me.

 I won't spoil it for you 'crafters.

 Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

 Problem: An alley has a 20-foot ladder across it, in the left lower corner
 and leaning on the right wall. There also is a 30-foot ladder, from the
 right lower corner leaning on the left wall. The laders cross at 10 feet
 high.

 How wide is the alley?

 Usual conventions: alley is all right angles, ladders have no thickness
nor
 bends, blah blah blah...

 This should make some juices flow out there. Just simple geometry, or is
it?


 PS: Iteration is cheating. Sorry Issac.


 snip
  the responses would be far more interesting than merely looking up the
 answer
 /snip

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Re: Re: [Elecraft] Operating in Rome,Italy... Pointers?

2005-03-30 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Stuart,

I've checked the ARRL and there is a bunch of info. 

I guess that I'm really asking for local knowledge or personal experience.

Thanks es 73,

Lonnie
NY2LJ


From: Stuart Rohre [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wed Mar 30 15:02:34 CST 2005
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Operating in Rome,Italy... Pointers?

Check out ARRL web site:  ARRL.org for pointers on international operations.
-Stuart
K5KVH

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread Andrea Borgia

James C. Hall, MD wrote:


Hmmm ... never seen square root as O with dot-dot on top.


Right, they should have printed it as dah-dah-dah-dit ;-P
Sorry, couldn't resist this one 8-)

B73,
Andrea.

--
Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it /Amateur radio: IZ4FHT
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RE: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread Charles Mabbott
I like simple, 10Db gain will go from 5 to 50Watts; 3Db more will double 50
to 100 Watts.  Approximately 13 Db

-- 
73
Chuck AA8VS
www.aa8vs.org/aa8vs
FP #113  MI-QRP #1212  SOC #445 
Firebird #2117  TSARC #3952
 
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 1:02 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: math question

How would one calculate the amplifier gain (in dB) required to go from one  
power level to another?  For example from 5W to 100W.  
 
K3UJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Operating in Rome,Italy... Pointers?

2005-03-30 Thread Andrea Borgia

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



I'd appreciate technical tips, but I'm also desperate for operating
advice.


For starters, here is a PDF document with the bandplan:
http://www.arimi.it/bandplan/BP5_0LHVU.pdf
(Please note this is _not_ an official document, rather a compilation of 
regulations, recommendations and just plain good advices)


Other than that, you should of course bring your own license (possibly 
with some note to the effect that it is equivalent to CEPT TR/61-01 
class 1) and identify yourself as I0/NY2LJ or such like (not sure about 
the prefix, as we have I0, IK0 and IZ0 for class 1).


This assuming they let you board the plane with the K2 in the first 
place... K2, C4, who knows the difference? ;-)


B73,
Andrea (in Bologna).

--
Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it /Amateur radio: IZ4FHT
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Re: [Elecraft] Fillet or not?

2005-03-30 Thread Bob - W5BIG
I always feel more comfortable with a fillet.

Without a fillet it's much more difficult to inspect the lead to be sure you
have solder completely surrounding the lead.  It's possible to have the hole
partially filled with solder so it looks ok from one angle but the lead is
not securely connected. This may be hard to see. A fillet is easier to
inspect. If the height of the lead sticking out of the board is critical,
it's no extra trouble to trim the fillet along with the lead.

73/ Bob - W5BIG


- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 2:21 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Fillet or not?



 There are those who advocate no fillet when soldering plated thru  holes.
Is
 an obvious fillet in that instance a sign of too much  solder?

 K3UJ



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread David A.Belsley

I'll go with an alley of zero width.

best wishes,

dave belsley, w1euy


On Mar 30, 2005, at 3:22 PM, Dan Barker wrote:

I ran into a brain-teaser once, that had me baffled for hours (I won't 
say
how many). Finally, I called my sister, the Rocket Scientist 
(actually,
we're not _Rocket_ scientists - That's a quote from her husband) and 
asked

her.

She and Paul spent a few minutes on the problem, figured it out, but 
it was
such a trivial answer they threw it away. Since I'd spent so long on 
the
Question, I gave her about a week and then I called back. Luckily 
they'd not
taken out the trash, so she easily found their notes and read them to 
me.


I won't spoil it for you 'crafters.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

Problem: An alley has a 20-foot ladder across it, in the left lower 
corner

and leaning on the right wall. There also is a 30-foot ladder, from the
right lower corner leaning on the left wall. The laders cross at 10 
feet

high.

How wide is the alley?

Usual conventions: alley is all right angles, ladders have no 
thickness nor

bends, blah blah blah...

This should make some juices flow out there. Just simple geometry, or 
is it?



PS: Iteration is cheating. Sorry Issac.


snip
 the responses would be far more interesting than merely looking up 
the

answer
/snip

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RE: [Elecraft] USB/LSB Audio

2005-03-30 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Thanks for the comments Ron.
Ok ive just revisited my posting i didn't make it clear that I am
monitoring 
my own recorded tx audio via recording with opt1 on rx/tx .  

M1MGD G-QRP  11355
Elecraft K1 #1532
K2  #4785..72/73..

--

Let's see if I understand. When you record your own transmitted audio, does
it sound muffled to you? 

If so, how are you monitoring your audio? Is it on another receiver? 

If you are playing a recorder into the K2 mic input, be careful not to
over-drive the audio input. The system will try to reduce the gain, but it
can be very easily overloaded. Also, a big impedance mis-match such as
between the low-impedance phones or speaker output of a recorder and the 1 k
mic input impedance of the K2 can cause change in the audio characteristics
of the signal. 

I check my audio by listening to my own signal on a separate receiver as
generated by speaking into my microphone and recording it, then playing back
the recording. That ensures that what I'm transmitting is the same as what
I'd transmit in a QSO. The trick is to properly tune in your signal on the
auxiliary receiver. If you are able to zero beat a CW signal using SPOT on
your K2, you can use a similar technique to tune in your auxiliary receiver
precisely. Listen to the auxiliary receiver using headphones at a level
where you can hear your own voice comfortably when transmitting into a dummy
load with your K2. Now whistle or hum into the mic. As  you adjust your
auxiliary receiver tuning, you'll hear a beat between your voice and the
received signal. Tune for zero beat. That ensures that your are precisely
tuned in on the auxiliary receiver. You want to be close to the right tuning
before doing that. Voices have very rich harmonic energy, and it's easy to
tune into a harmonic. If you hum at 500 Hz, it's easy to tune in 1 kHz off,
although it's pretty obvious when you listen to yourself talk! Get the
tuning as close as you can, then hum and listen for the beat. 

Now record your signal as received. I use my computer. A tape recorder will
do FB as well. 

My experience with the standard Elecraft OPT 1 filter is that the setting
of the BFO frequency is critical. The bandwidth of the filter is set near
the minimum for good voice intelligibility, because that give the signal the
greatest strength, or punch. That's especially important for QRP
operators. But just a small change in the BFO frequency has a very large
effect on the intelligibility of the signal. A little one way and the signal
is 'tinny' and a bit the other and it's 'muffled'. 

Try adjusting your BFO frequency to move the filter bandpass further from
the carrier. I have my filters set to roll off at about 400 Hz on the low
end. 

After I did that my audio was okay, but I eventually modified my K2 for the
wider bandwidth filter as described on the Elecraft web site. I was much
happier with the sound of my K2 after doing that on both transmit and
receive. I like to do a little A.M. Broadcast band DX-ing with my K2 from
time to time and, listening on headphones with my wider SSB filter, it's
hard to tell the difference between a broadcast station received on the K2
and one received on many broadcast band receivers. 

Changing the bandwidth involves changing the capacitor values in the filter.
You use the same crystals. John, KI6WX, developed a couple of optional
bandwidths for the OPT 1 filter you can select by installing the correct
capacitors. The capacitor values are standard sizes. If you don't have
access to the right value caps where you are you can order SSBCAPKT from
Elecraft. 

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread Able2fly
 
 
That can't be right. Drawing it (roughly) on paper shows it to be around 13  
feet wide, give or take a foot or so. But coming up with a precise equation  
takes more math skills than high school left me with...
 
Bill  K3UJ
 

 

In a message dated 3/30/2005 4:51:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I'll go  with an alley of zero width.

best wishes,

dave belsley,  w1euy

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Frank:

Thanks pal... guess I got a bit ahead of myself there!

Of course, you're completely correct! Should have been 26db, instead of 16dB!

73,

Tom

At 03:54 PM 3/30/05, you wrote:

Hi Tom,
Just a small correction to your 2W to 800W example:
From 2W to 4W (first doubling of power) =  +3dB
From 4W to 8W (2nd doubling of power) =  +3dB
From 8W to 80W (increase of 10X) = +10dB
From 80W to 800W (increase of 10X) = +10dB
Total = 3+3+10+10 = 26db

Best 73,
Frank - W6NEK

- Original Message - From: Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question



At 12:01 PM 3/30/05, you wrote:

How would one calculate the amplifier gain (in dB) required to go from one
power level to another?  For example from 5W to 100W.


10 log(P2/P1) = 10 log(100/5) = 10 log(20) = 10 (1.30103) = 13.0103dB

An easy 'rule of thumb' way to get a good idea of such levels
is to remember that:

  a power INcrease of 2  = approx. +3dB change
  a power DEcrease of 2  = approx. -3dB change

  a power INcrease of 10 = +10dB
  a power DEcrease of 10 = -10dB

So, to go from 5W to 10W output, you have 3dB GAIN
to go from 10W to 100W, you have 10dB gain

Since dB's can be added, going from 5W to 100W = 3db + 10 dB = 13dB

Similarly, if you went from 2W to 800W...

  From 2W to 4W (first doubling of power) =  +3dB
  From 4W to 8W (2nd doubling of power)   =  +3dB
  From 8W to 800W (increase of 10X)   = +10dB
  ---
   Total power increase in dB = +16dB

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread Larry Phipps


For convenience, Mini-Circuits has a nice printable conversion table at 
http://www.mini-circuits.com/dg03-110.pdf


Larry N8LP



Tom Hammond wrote:


At 12:01 PM 3/30/05, you wrote:

How would one calculate the amplifier gain (in dB) required to go 
from one

power level to another?  For example from 5W to 100W.



10 log(P2/P1) = 10 log(100/5) = 10 log(20) = 10 (1.30103) = 13.0103dB

An easy 'rule of thumb' way to get a good idea of such levels
is to remember that:

  a power INcrease of 2  = approx. +3dB change
  a power DEcrease of 2  = approx. -3dB change

  a power INcrease of 10 = +10dB
  a power DEcrease of 10 = -10dB

So, to go from 5W to 10W output, you have 3dB GAIN
to go from 10W to 100W, you have 10dB gain

Since dB's can be added, going from 5W to 100W = 3db + 10 dB = 13dB

Similarly, if you went from 2W to 800W...

  From 2W to 4W (first doubling of power) =  +3dB
  From 4W to 8W (2nd doubling of power)   =  +3dB
  From 8W to 800W (increase of 10X)   = +10dB
  ---
   Total power increase in dB = +16dB

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread Thom R. Lacosta

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005, S55M wrote:


Yes math is beautifull (callculating needed space for 3d antennas HI.
But google can spare some time and paper.

:)
http://home.att.net/~numericana/answer/algebra.htm#quartic


ANd now I know why my daughters always hated math, and why I never passed the
test to get recruited by various federal agencies.

I(we) are dumb.

73
Thom
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: math question

2005-03-30 Thread David A.Belsley
Well, Bill, my first answer of zero feet width is, in fact, a correct 
answer, albeit rather degenerate.  It was an answer that came 
immediately to mind.  However, there is a nondegenerate answer, which 
is


approximately 12.3119 feet.

best wishes,

dave belsley, w1euy


That can't be right. Drawing it (roughly) on paper shows it to be 
around 13 feet wide, give or take a foot or so. But coming up with 
a precise equation takes more math skills than high school left me 
with...



Bill  K3UJ
 



In a message dated 3/30/2005 4:51:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


I'll go with an alley of zero width.

best wishes,

dave belsley, w1euy___

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[Elecraft] K2 AND SHACKLOG

2005-03-30 Thread Chris Page
Is anyone using a K2 with 5B4AHR's (G3PMR) Shacklog logging program, 
please?

73 de Chris, W4/G4BUE


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.8.4 - Release Date: 27/03/2005

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[Elecraft] Logging 4U1WB

2005-03-30 Thread w2bvh

Hi

My (approx 5 year old) countries list from ARRL lists 4U_ITU (the ITU) 
and 4U_UN (the UN) as separate countries. It doesn't list 4Uanything 
else  as a separate prefix.


I worked 4U1WB (the World Bank) this weekend in the WPX test. Is 4U1WB 
another country for DXCC purposes?


73,
Lenny W2BVH
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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2005-03-30 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

Due to a forecast calling for rain and wind late afternoon on Thursday,
we will leave PA around 7:30am and should be on the air by 10am or so at
Turkey Point Lighthouse ARLHS USA-857. Also look for us on the air
Thursday evening on 3.970mhz and 3.530 mhz at Concord Point Lighthouse
in MD. It's been really hard to operate and stay dry lately!  I've been
receiving emails from the local hams down there wishing to visit us at
the lighthouse on Friday, but it might rain. We will activate both
lights regardless of the weather! I already packed my rain gear in my
backpack and a tarp to setup under at Turkey Point Light.

72/73,
Ed, WA3WSJ
ARLHS # 983



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Re: [Elecraft] Logging 4U1WB

2005-03-30 Thread Bob Nielsen
On Wed, Mar 30, 2005 at 08:11:05PM -0500, w2bvh wrote:
 Hi
 
 My (approx 5 year old) countries list from ARRL lists 4U_ITU (the ITU) 
 and 4U_UN (the UN) as separate countries. It doesn't list 4Uanything 
 else  as a separate prefix.
 
 I worked 4U1WB (the World Bank) this weekend in the WPX test. Is 4U1WB 
 another country for DXCC purposes?

It counts as the U.S.

Bob, N7XY

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[Elecraft] OT Hakko question

2005-03-30 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I have a Hakko soldering reel holder.  It has a ground screw for a ground wire. 
 I thought it was for grounding to your ground rod but the pic shows your 
supposed to clip it to the circuit board your soldering on.  does it matter?

WT5Y
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[Elecraft] k2 alignment and test part 2

2005-03-30 Thread jon howe

I have made it to page 57, PLL Reference Oscillator Range Test.
My high Freq is 12098.42
low freq is 12085.21
Range = 13.21 kHz
So the range is not between 9.8 and 13 kHz, and I must refer to 
Troubleshooting.

I'm stumped.
To exactly where in the Troubleshooting section are they referring?
Similarly, for the VCO Test, the freq counter reads 10690.74.
It is fairly stable, but not between 8 and 10 MHz.
Again, exactly where in the Troubleshooting section am I supposed to go?
(This refers to Manual Rev E, Feb 16, 2003. s/n is 3460)
jh
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