[Elecraft] Neurotic about Toroids
I am still considering what my *grown up* rig will eventually be after I've outlived my *first* rig . I always seem to go back to the K2 and that is where my head and heart are. But the devil keeps popping up, whispering in my ear that I'll never be able to strip and mount so many toroid coils (and that I'll probably zap an IC). My main worry is with the stripping process. The recommended method is the melted solder thing where you tin and strip at the same time. But how do you know you have not tinned the enamel, since the whole thing is covered in solder? KI6AZS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Neurotic about Toroids
You can see the enamel burn off, and the solder tin the copper. Just make sure the iron is hot enough, and you take your time. 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Sun, 23 Oct 2005 01:36:58 -0700, Lee wrote: I am still considering what my *grown up* rig will eventually be after I've outlived my *first* rig . I always seem to go back to the K2 and that is where my head and heart are. But the devil keeps popping up, whispering in my ear that I'll never be able to strip and mount so many toroid coils (and that I'll probably zap an IC). My main worry is with the stripping process. The recommended method is the melted solder thing where you tin and strip at the same time. But how do you know you have not tinned the enamel, since the whole thing is covered in solder? KI6AZS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Neurotic about Toroids
Hi, This devil has many appearances and uses different names depending on the person in doubt. Several of the names are: Icom, Yeasu Kenwood, etc. It isn't that difficult. Put the part of the wire to be stripped flat on the surface of the edge of a table. Take a real sharp knife and scratch with an angle of 45 degrees (between the surface of the table and the blade of the knife) as you move the knife into the direction to the end of the wire. The coating will come off. Repeat this process several times when turning the wire around to make sure you don't press to hard on the knife. I did it this way, and none of the wires broke. If you do, there is plenty of spare wire to rewind the core. Success and have fun. Evert, PA2KW K2 : SN4836 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lee Sent: 23 October 2005 10:37 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Neurotic about Toroids I am still considering what my *grown up* rig will eventually be after I've outlived my *first* rig . I always seem to go back to the K2 and that is where my head and heart are. But the devil keeps popping up, whispering in my ear that I'll never be able to strip and mount so many toroid coils (and that I'll probably zap an IC). My main worry is with the stripping process. The recommended method is the melted solder thing where you tin and strip at the same time. But how do you know you have not tinned the enamel, since the whole thing is covered in solder? KI6AZS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Neurotic about Toroids
Lee, Not to worry, the enamel itself will not adhere to the solder at all, so if you have the leads with a nice shiny tinned surface, you can know that they have been stripped as well. As for zapping ICs, practice safe ESD techniques at the workbench. If you have a wrist strap available, use it when handling ESD Sensitive devices, or even better, also use a properly grounded (through a high value resistance) anti-static mat on the workbench. At a minimum, follow the instructions in the manual to 'touch an unpainted metal surface' before handling these devices. The real key to safe ESD practice is to keep everything at the same potential - before handling ICs, I make sure everything is on my antistatic mat - that includes the circuit board, IC (still in its anti-static foam), any tools I will use, as well as both hands, and if I have any doubt or the air is particularly dry, I put the wrist strap on too. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- My main worry is with the stripping process. The recommended method is the melted solder thing where you tin and strip at the same time. But how do you know you have not tinned the enamel, since the whole thing is covered in solder? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K2 battery switch
Hello Norm and Sverre, in the mean time I have kicked my internet provider powerful in the (beep/censored) and have now (ooh surprise!) again access to my webspace. For more details about the modification of my K2 please click www.dk3red.homepage.t-online.de/en/s6.htm#trx6 -- 72/73 de Ingo, DK3RED Don't forget: the fun is the power! [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.dk3red.homepage.t-online.de DL-QRP-AG #824 www.dl-qrp-ag.de QRP ARCI #11295 www.qrparci.org DARC #2360404 www.darc.de ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS updated: unbuilt K2 accs kits
Still available: KAT100, BL1 and Heil Proset. Details PIX at: http://users.frii.com/rwc/fs/ KSB2, KPA100, K160 and KNB2 are sold Thanks everybody for your interest. -- 73, Rod N0RC On 10/22/2005 1:45 PM, Rod N0RC said the following: KSB2 sold Still available: KPA100, KAT100, K160, KNB2, BL1 and Heil Proset. Details PIX at: http://users.frii.com/rwc/fs/ ... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Neurotic about Toroids
Hi Lee, I had the same reservations, vis a vis, winding the toroids, and the advice you have received is spot on. There is an additional solution, however, and that is to purchase a complete set (for each kit) of pre-wound toroids. I went this direction and the product was absolutely first rate. I did check each one as I installed it, and they were uniformly outstanding. If you have the time and patience, wind them yourself, if either time or patience is a restricting resource, buy them. Here is the link: http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/ToroidGuy/toroidguy_prewound_toroids.htm As you can see from the link, elecraft endorses (that may not be the correct term for their relationship, but they at least provide the information to prospective buyers). Tom, W3QS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2005 8:22 AM To: Lee; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Neurotic about Toroids Lee, Not to worry, the enamel itself will not adhere to the solder at all, so if you have the leads with a nice shiny tinned surface, you can know that they have been stripped as well. As for zapping ICs, practice safe ESD techniques at the workbench. If you have a wrist strap available, use it when handling ESD Sensitive devices, or even better, also use a properly grounded (through a high value resistance) anti-static mat on the workbench. At a minimum, follow the instructions in the manual to 'touch an unpainted metal surface' before handling these devices. The real key to safe ESD practice is to keep everything at the same potential - before handling ICs, I make sure everything is on my antistatic mat - that includes the circuit board, IC (still in its anti-static foam), any tools I will use, as well as both hands, and if I have any doubt or the air is particularly dry, I put the wrist strap on too. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- My main worry is with the stripping process. The recommended method is the melted solder thing where you tin and strip at the same time. But how do you know you have not tinned the enamel, since the whole thing is covered in solder? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] MicroHam microkeyer
Hi, Anyone using a MicroHam microkeyer with a K2 with an outboard KPA100 ? I'm interested in how the microkeyer copes with the non standard Elecraft RS232 implementation. 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Neurotic about Toroids
Hi Lee: At 03:36 AM 10/23/2005, you wrote: I am still considering what my *grown up* rig will eventually be after I've outlived my *first* rig. I always seem to go back to the K2 and that is where my head and heart are. But the devil keeps popping up, whispering in my ear that I'll never be able to strip and mount so many toroid coils (and that I'll probably zap an IC). My main worry is with the stripping process. The recommended method is the melted solder thing where you tin and strip at the same time. But how do you know you have not tinned the enamel, since the whole thing is covered in solder? Good question... easy answer... it's kinda like trying to 'wet down' an oily plate... the water refuses to stick to the plate because of the oil. Same for enameled wire... the enamel will not allow the solder to adhere to the copper beneath it! The solder just rolls off. Tinning a wire which is covered with HEAT-STRIPPABLE ENAMEL is not a difficult task... though it does take a bit of time... heat... and possibly a good technique. There are (generally) two types of insulating enamel... heat-strippable, and NON-heat-strippable (often referred to as FORMVAR-insulated wire). Formvar is in insulation VARnish which is very(!) resistant to heat and which you will generally have to scrape off the wire before it can be tinned. In general, most Formvar insulations are dark (often reddish-)brown in color. On the other hand, heat-strippable insulations are generally much lighter in color (golden or a clear red or green), and they will melt (and turn black), offering up the bare copper beneath the insulation, once the right amount of heat has been applied to them. From experience only, it appears that the 'right amount of heat' must be in the range of 700 deg to 800 deg F (370 deg to 425 deg C). You can remove the insulation in any of a number of ways. I'll discuss a few below: 1) SCRAPING it off with a (semi-)sharp blade. Hold the blade against the wire at right angles and pull the blade to the end of the wire, stripping off small strips of insulation with each pull. Repeat all the way around the wire, taking care to NOT NICK THE WIRE was you strip the insulation. The main problem I see with this method is that one can impart small nicks to the wire which may eventually result in weakening of the wire at the nick, especially if the wire is in a location where it may be subject to being flexed back and forth or in a connector which may be installed and removed frequently. The other possible problem with this method is that, if you are not careful in blade-stripping of the enamel, you will leave lengths of un-stripped enamel which can (if not burned away during the subsequent tinning process) result in a very poorly tinned wire. 2) SANDING it off with sandpaper, emery cloth, or some other similar abrasive medium. This method can work pretty well if you take the time to do it right. And it will not cause damage to the wire as a result of nicking with a blade. This method does often take some time to do properly and, like blade stripping, can result in 'blotchy' tinning if you don't apply enough heat once you tin the wire. 3) BURNING it off by use of a flame. This method seems to work pretty well but once you have successfully melted and burned the enamel, you still have to then clean away the blackened residue which still adheres to the wire itself. you CANNOT merely solder through the carbonized insulation. This method takes some time to accomplish properly, but it will generally result in a solderable wire. You DO have to use some care when using certain types of flame... the flame may be so hot, and uncontrolled, that you not only succeed in burning off the enamel but you also success in 'hardening' the copper to the point that it becomes brittle and will break much more easily once it is placed into use. 4) MELTING/BURNING it off by using the heat of molten solder. I tend to prefer this method, though some find it a bit more difficult to accomplish. The 'tricks' (if there are some) to this method are using a soldering iron which is hot enough, getting the melted solder TO the COPPER where it will quickly spread the heat, and being patient a bit patient. If you have a temp-controlled soldering iron, you'll want to set the tip temp up a bit higher than that which you use for normal soldering. I tend to use a tip temp of about 700 deg F (370 deg C) for soldering, but I bump that up to about 750 deg F (400 deg C) when I'm melting heat-strippable insulation. If you don't have a temp-controlled iron, chances are that your tip temp is already at or above the required temperature, so you probably won't have to worry about tip temperature. Additionally, a larger (width-wise) is recommended, though a fine tip will work. You
[Elecraft] MicroHam microkeyer
Stewart wrote: Anyone using a MicroHam microkeyer with a K2 with an outboard KPA100 ? Stewart, As near as I can tell from the MicroHam MicroKeyer documentation, the device makes no connection to the K2 thru the K2's serial port, whether KPA100 or KI02. So I would suggest that answers your question. Your second statement does puzzle me a bit. You said, I'm interested in how the microkeyer copes with the non standard Elecraft RS232 implementation?. As a long time and very experienced datacomm engineer, I have to ask, what is non-standard about the K2 RS-232 implementation. I find it very straight forward, requiring no handshaking, simple and up to the task. Far simpler that some of the stuff (cleaned that up) that I have run into in my long and now retired career. Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] DMM for XG2 testing
Does a multimeter used for MDS testing with the XG2 *have* to be one that reads RMS? 73 de Ken KGØWX - Flying Pigs #-1055 Elecraft K2 #4913 - Kadiddlehoppers #11,807 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] DMM for XG2 testing
Ken, Most multimeters, when used for AC measurements, do in fact read RMS values. Specialized meters do exist which will read peak (or average, or whatever), but the common meters do read RMS only. If you measure your household AC voltage (in the US) with your meter, and you find a reading somewhere about 115 or 120 volts, you can be assured that the meter is displaying RMS values. You CAN use peak (or other) measurements and convert to RMS so the given formulas will work correctly, or you CAN create your own formulas which match the units that your meter does provide - but for my taste, it is far easier to just use an 'ordinary' DMM. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ken Bessler Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2005 9:53 AM To: Elecraft Main Group Subject: [Elecraft] DMM for XG2 testing Does a multimeter used for MDS testing with the XG2 *have* to be one that reads RMS? 73 de Ken KGØWX - Flying Pigs #-1055 Elecraft K2 #4913 - Kadiddlehoppers #11,807 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/146 - Release Date: 10/21/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] question about K2 SSB troubleshooting
Hi Guys, I've got a question regarding SSB audio troubleshooting. I mainly use the K2 as my CW rig. But I was recently checking it out on SSB. On 20m USB, I was getting a report that my audio sounded distorted. I adjusted the transmit filter OP1 to adjust the BFO setting, which seemed to improve the audio on USB quite a lot. But on 40m LSB, the audio is also sounding distorted and although I tried adjusting the BFO I wasn't able to improve it all that much. Any advice on how to troubleshoot this, and also could there be some other problem accounting for this (e.g. grounding issue, bad mic connector, etc)? I suspect it has something to do with the BFO setting and I just have to keep experimenting with different settings, but I could be wrong. I'm using the Heil handmic with Yaesu wiring. Note that the firmware rev is 1.04d, which I understand is very old. This rig is the 15w version, and has the internal battery, SSB, noise blanker, and auto tuner options. Thanks in advance for your advice. 73 de Curt W6RQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DMM for XG2 testing
In a message dated 23/10/05 15:32:01 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Most multimeters, when used for AC measurements, do in fact read RMS values. Specialized meters do exist which will read peak (or average, or whatever), but the common meters do read RMS only. If you measure your household AC voltage (in the US) with your meter, and you find a reading somewhere about 115 or 120 volts, you can be assured that the meter is displaying RMS values. - The only thing to be careful with some DMM are that whilst they will measure RMS voltage at AC power frequencies, will be inaccurate at frequencies in the kHz range. A early Tandy (Radio Shack) DMM I purchased was wildly inaccurate when trying to measure audio frequencies whilst checking large audio PA systems, where the 8000 series Fluke was perfectly OK in measuring audio up to at least up to 5kHz. Regards, Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 Flunking the Q6 resistance check
Hi I am at the stage in assembling my KX1 where you check the resistance the from the Q6 Collector to ground. Its supposed to be greater than 500 ohms and I'm getting about 245. All of the other resistance checks are correct and everything else seems to be in the correct place. Any ideas where I should hunt for the problem? Thanks Dan AD6JY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Neurotic about Toroids
Lee, After you've installed a toroid, check the resistance across the toroid leads (all pairs if it's a transformer) at the solder pads. If it's zero, you can be assured you stripped the leads properly and got a good solder joint on the board. Since I started doing that, I've never had a bad toroid installation. Take your time and enjoy building your K2. Elecraft and this excellent list are always there to back you up, so you CAN'T fail. 72, Bruce N7CEE K2 #244 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Fwd: K2 Delight!
___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] MicroHam microkeyer
It seems to have the ability to send commands to the K2 via the serial port. What I meant to have said, was that Elecraft have some fairly non standard usage of the pins on a RS232 D type. 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Sun, 23 Oct 2005 08:52:53 -0500, Jim\ wrote: Stewart wrote: Anyone using a MicroHam microkeyer with a K2 with an outboard KPA100 ? Stewart, As near as I can tell from the MicroHam MicroKeyer documentation, the device makes no connection to the K2 thru the K2's serial port, whether KPA100 or KI02. So I would suggest that answers your question. Your second statement does puzzle me a bit. You said, I'm interested in how the microkeyer copes with the non standard Elecraft RS232 implementation?. As a long time and very experienced datacomm engineer, I have to ask, what is non-standard about the K2 RS-232 implementation. I find it very straight forward, requiring no handshaking, simple and up to the task. Far simpler that some of the stuff (cleaned that up) that I have run into in my long and now retired career. Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Winding toroids - It ain't hard at all --
Noticing a resurgence of toroid winding anxiety lately and saw Tom Hammond's (N0SS) excellent tutorioal on how to strip the leads, at his suggestion, here's the technique that I use to wind them -- I use the same stripping method(s) that Tom explained in his post. If your wife won't part with hers, go somewhere that sells sewing needles (pretty much any department store or hobby store such as Wally World, K-Mart, Target etc.) and get yourself an assortment of sewing needles. Pick the ones that have eyes big enough for the different sizes of wire that you plan to use. I don't remember the needle #'s anymore, but probably you should get ones to fit #30, 28, 26 and 24 gauge wire. Any bigger wire than #24 is stiff enough that the needle would just get in the way. Once you have the needles, if you are as fumble fingered as I am (read that as age 63, drink too much coffee and cant see well anymore), you better either file or grind the points off the needles. Certainly keeps you from having to bandage your fingertips a bunch of times. Now, if you're diabetic like me, your fingertips are pretty insensitive anyway due to frequenct testing of blood sugar (involves sticking your fingers with needles anyway). Once you have your needles and have blunted them to your satisfaction, simply measure out the required length of wire as called out in the manual and add about an inch. Thread the wire through the appropriately sized needle, and fold it back on itself. You can even twist it a bit to keep it from slipping out of the needle. (That's what the extra inch is for.) Next start threading the needle through the hole in the toroid and pull each turn snug (remembering that each time the wire passes through the center of the thing counts for one turn) but don't pull so hard that you break the wire. You should also be careful not to overlap the turns as well, as you will want to spread them out so they cover about 85-90 percent of the core. This isn't too critical, and if you accidentally overlap a turn or two, in most cases it won't seriously affect the performance of the coil, it just won't look as pretty. When you have the required number of turns wound on the core, simply take your wire snippers and trim the excess lead length to what's required, and strip/tin them using Tom's technique. After doing a couple, you'll wonder what all the fuss was about anyway. Anyone having further questions, feel free to email me off list. 73, Jim Sheldon, W0EB Wichita, KS [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] MicroHam microkeyer
Stewart is absolutely correct in his reference to the reassigned pins on the K2 serial interface. I was not looking pas the rx/tx interface which is indeed simplicity in itself. I have apologized for my oversight to Stewart. Mea' Culpa! 73s Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Charectorizing the Elecraft wide band noise generator for BPL measurements
Hello, Has anybody characterized the Elecraft wide band noise generator, in /*ENR dB*/ numbers, for _noise figure work_??? I stumbled across a method (written for hams) to measure BPL interference: http://www.vk1od.net/ The author has written software for this application, at first glance the concept appears to be well thought out, –but- it requires the noise source to be characterized in ENR dB. I think this kit could become a real useful tool for evaluating BPL Interference. Thanks to Wayne Company for developing some useful little tools. I look forward to hearing your comments. Thank you. 73's de wb9own Dave Garnier ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] MicroHam microkeyer
Stewart Baker wrote: It seems to have the ability to send commands to the K2 via the serial port. What I meant to have said, was that Elecraft have some fairly non standard usage of the pins on a RS232 D type. It uses TXD, RXD, and GND, and a sort of shield ground, and you probably want to avoid connecting any other pins because they're (ab)used for non-RS232 stuff like Elecraft's proprietary AUXBUS, power supplies, wattmeters, and stuff. I'd have thought it would be trivial to make a cable or adapter with just those 3 pins connected. See KIO manual (downloadable) for pinouts. -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, Senior Sysadmin. #include stddisclaimer[EMAIL PROTECTED] All your problems are being caused by invisible people called Floyd and Maude. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Charectorizing the Elecraft wide band noise generator for BPL measurements
There doesn't seem to be too much noise to measure. Mines not many dog biscuits above the noise floor if my spectrum analyser. David Garnier wrote: Hello, Has anybody characterized the Elecraft wide band noise generator, in /*ENR dB*/ numbers, for _noise figure work_??? I stumbled across a method (written for hams) to measure BPL interference: http://www.vk1od.net/ The author has written software for this application, at first glance the concept appears to be well thought out, –but- it requires the noise source to be characterized in ENR dB. I think this kit could become a real useful tool for evaluating BPL Interference. Thanks to Wayne Company for developing some useful little tools. I look forward to hearing your comments. Thank you. 73's de wb9own Dave Garnier -- Nigel A. Gunn. 59 Beadlemead, Milton Keynes, MK6 4HF, England. Tel +44 (0)1908 604004 e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] wwwhttp://www.ngunn.net or http://www.ngunn.demon.co.uk Amateur radio stations G8IFF, KC8NHF Member of AMSAT-UK #182, ARRL, GQRP Club, QRPARCI, SOC #548 RAYNET Flying Pig #385, Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA LM-1691, ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Dumb K2 question - Blinking U and L indicators
The L and U indicator is blinking in SSB modes on my K2. I don't remember them ever doing that. Can someone tell me what the Elecraft radio is trying to tell me? Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] MicroHam microkeyer
Stewart and all, That is precisely why I hesitate to refer to the DE9 connector on the KIO2 and the KPA100 as an 'RS232' connector. To those not yet informed, please be aware that connecting a standard RS232 serial cable to this K2 connector (and the other end to a computer) will most certainly do harm to your K2. This connector carries K2 control signals (non-RS232) as well as the RS232 signals (only TXD and RXD and Signal Ground are RS232 standard levels). The connector itself does not follow the RS232 standard - perhaps it would have been better implemented as a DIN connector, but it is too late for that now. There are only 3 pins (OK, 4 if you include frame ground on pin 1) that are RS232 signals. The rest of the pins should not be subjected to the up-to plus/minus 25 volts levels that may be present should the other end of the cable be connected to a device which presents standard RS232 signals. For my own K2, I have put a plug into pin 4 and broken off pin 4 of the mating cable, so only that special cable can be plugged into the K2 to prevent an accident that can happen to the best of us. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- It seems to have the ability to send commands to the K2 via the serial port. What I meant to have said, was that Elecraft have some fairly non standard usage of the pins on a RS232 D type. 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Neurotic about Toroids
KI6AZS wrote: But how do you know you have not tinned the enamel, since the whole thing is covered in solder? Use you ohmmeter to confirm continuity from one end to the other. The biggest mistake most builders make tinning the toroid leads is that they fail to tin them close enough to the body of the toroid. You need to tin right up to the core! Unwrap a part of a turn so you can tin he wire without burning the adjacent turns, then reposition it so the solder starts where the wire leaves the side of the core. When the wire isn't tinned up high enough, it's easy to pull the tinned section all the way through the board so you're trying to solder to the un-tinned wire above where you stripped it! Also, it is NOT necessary to pull down hard on the leads when mounting the toroids. Just pull all the excess lead through the hole, so the toroid is sitting or standing as indicated against the board. As a final check BEFORE soldering, look to see if tinned wire is visible at the edge of the pad on the toroid side. IF you see enameled, un-tinned wire going into the PCB hole, you didn't tin it far enough up. Remove the toroid and tin the lead closer to the core. It's really harder to describe than to do, but some ops find it simply not much fun to wind and tin toroids. That's why the toroidguy is around. You should have found a flyer in your kit box advertising his services. You can also find his info under Builder's Resources on www.elecraft.com. He'll send you a set of pre-wound, pre-tinned toroids all ready to drop in to your kit if you want. About the I.C. concerns, simply following the grounding procedures given in the book and you'll be fine! The big issue, if you aren't wearing a ground strap, is to touch something unpainted and GROUNDED before picking up an I.C., and touch it AGAIN regularly, especially after getting up or squirming around in your seat. A little clothes-to-vinyl or cloth friction on the seat can quickly produce a static charge. If you aren't sure about the ground, the mains ground is FB, if it is grounded. A cheap tester from your hardware store can confirm whether your mains ground circuit is properly hooked up. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Dumb K2 question - Blinking U and L indicators
On Sun, Oct 23, 2005 at 11:24:47AM -0700, Fred Jensen wrote: The L and U indicator is blinking in SSB modes on my K2. I don't remember them ever doing that. Can someone tell me what the Elecraft radio is trying to tell me? First hit on google for flash u l site:ac6rm.net: http://ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2000-06/msg00659.html . | While in an SSB mode, holding the same Mode button will change the | operation from Push-to-Talk to VOX. When you do this the U or L on | the display will slowly flash to remind you that PTT operation is | disabled. ` 73, -- Fabian Kurz, DJ1YFK/AD5UR * Dresden, Germany * http://fkurz.net/ K2#5054 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Dumb K2 question - Blinking U and L indicators
Fred, The 'L' or 'U' in the K2 display will blink if you have VOX enabled. Press the MODE/VOX button until it says 'Ptt' and the blinking should stop. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- The L and U indicator is blinking in SSB modes on my K2. I don't remember them ever doing that. Can someone tell me what the Elecraft radio is trying to tell me? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Neurotic about Toroids
Lee, If you don't choose to buy Mychael's pre-wound toroids (which I did for the K2 RF board) you might want also to try these two hints: 1. Make sure to wind the toroid the right way, with the top wire being on the correct left/right side of the bottom wire. Elecraft's manuals always have pictures to go by. If you get it backwards, it will be a mirror image of what it is supposed to be, and it won't fit in the hole right, and no amount of turning the toroid around again will make the holes line up, hi hi. 2. Everybody tells you to count the times the wire goes through the hole, but nobody tells you how to verify it afterwards! Once you're done, count the number of turns on the inside rim of the toroid and ignore the outside rim. 73, Leigh / WA5ZNU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] MicroHam microkeyer
To all This URL will take you to the schematic of the cable set used with the Microham Microkeyer http://www.microham.com/Downloads/DB37-EL-K2.pdf If you look in the accessories section you can see the schematics of all the cables At present the US supplier is back ordered on the K2 cables until Nov 4th. If you wish to roll your own the online store does allow for a price reduction if you do not order a cable. I have no connection to Microham 73 Jim VE3TTN On Oct 23, 2005, at 14:34, Don Wilhelm wrote: Stewart and all, That is precisely why I hesitate to refer to the DE9 connector on the KIO2 and the KPA100 as an 'RS232' connector. To those not yet informed, please be aware that connecting a standard RS232 serial cable to this K2 connector (and the other end to a computer) will most certainly do harm to your K2. This connector carries K2 control signals (non-RS232) as well as the RS232 signals (only TXD and RXD and Signal Ground are RS232 standard levels). The connector itself does not follow the RS232 standard - perhaps it would have been better implemented as a DIN connector, but it is too late for that now. There are only 3 pins (OK, 4 if you include frame ground on pin 1) that are RS232 signals. The rest of the pins should not be subjected to the up-to plus/minus 25 volts levels that may be present should the other end of the cable be connected to a device which presents standard RS232 signals. For my own K2, I have put a plug into pin 4 and broken off pin 4 of the mating cable, so only that special cable can be plugged into the K2 to prevent an accident that can happen to the best of us. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- It seems to have the ability to send commands to the K2 via the serial port. What I meant to have said, was that Elecraft have some fairly non standard usage of the pins on a RS232 D type. 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] MicroHam microkeyer
Looks like a opportunity for somebody to venture into the commercial world with a CONVERSION PLUG for the K2?? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2005 18:34 To: Stewart Baker; Jim; Elecraft Reflector Subject: RE: [Elecraft] MicroHam microkeyer Stewart and all, That is precisely why I hesitate to refer to the DE9 connector on the KIO2 and the KPA100 as an 'RS232' connector. To those not yet informed, please be aware that connecting a standard RS232 serial cable to this K2 connector (and the other end to a computer) will most certainly do harm to your K2. This connector carries K2 control signals (non-RS232) as well as the RS232 signals (only TXD and RXD and Signal Ground are RS232 standard levels). The connector itself does not follow the RS232 standard - perhaps it would have been better implemented as a DIN connector, but it is too late for that now. There are only 3 pins (OK, 4 if you include frame ground on pin 1) that are RS232 signals. The rest of the pins should not be subjected to the up-to plus/minus 25 volts levels that may be present should the other end of the cable be connected to a device which presents standard RS232 signals. For my own K2, I have put a plug into pin 4 and broken off pin 4 of the mating cable, so only that special cable can be plugged into the K2 to prevent an accident that can happen to the best of us. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- It seems to have the ability to send commands to the K2 via the serial port. What I meant to have said, was that Elecraft have some fairly non standard usage of the pins on a RS232 D type. 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] MDS testing question
Thanks to those that answered my question on AC meters and RMS - good info. Now, in a brain fog it came to me - can't I just use Spectrogram and use the cursor to measure the S+N N readings directly in db? I know, I know - Spectrogram's db readings may or may not be referenced to an accurate source but isn't MDS the difference between S+N and N, subtracted from the -107 dbm the XG2 puts out? D'oh! Maybe I need more coffee.. 73 de Ken KGØWX - Flying Pigs #-1055 Elecraft K2 #4913 - Kadiddlehoppers #11,807 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Question on KDSP2
I have a question on the KDSP2, the DSP filter for the K2 I have K2 firmware version 2.04P installed in my K2, as shown when I press any key on power up. I also have KDSP2 firmware version 3.16 installed. as shown on the display when entering the appropriate commands. According to the KDSP2 Manual Errata (presently posted on the Elecraft web site) I should be able to toggle the Autonotch and the Denoiser on and off directly from the K2 front panel by simultaneously pressing and holding AFIL+SPLIT and AFIL+REC, respectively. When I do this I get a message on the LED Not Installed (appropriately abbreviated, of course). I am able to perform all of the other DSP functions except for these. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong or how I can track down this problem Thanks in advance for your help Tom McCulloch WB2QDG K2 1103 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for October 23rd, 2005
Good Evening, Thanks to N0SS and K1EV for getting a few more QNI for me. The band had some QSB on both ends but the QRN grew as we went along. Looks like the weather out East is starting to get a little cooler and wetter. I did not get weather reports from Fred or Karl but I would assume Karl's is very much like mine ;) Fred may or may not have sunshine. When I arrived in California last week it was sunny but the next morning dawned cloudy and cooler. Thank you Bill for waiting then working the East with Tom. I appreciate the help. The band was odd though. Either folks were worn out from contesting or we simply were not getting out all that well. Hmmm... Fred was very loud for some reason. Maybe he is out camping somewhere and pointing directly at me ;) Karl was tough copy today but that is not surprising since he is behind a mountain range and too close to bounce of the ionosphere. Pennsylvania was well represented tonight with check ins from Avondale and State College. On 14050 kHz at 2300Z: N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008 N9IV - Russ - IN - K2 - 4650 WU5X - Jim - AR - K2 - 3440 K1EV - Bill - CT - K2 - 2152 KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798 W9ATT - Jim - IL - fly by check in K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398QNI #15! N7NLU - Karl - OR - K2 - 4227 AB3AP - Mike - PA - K2/100 but did not get a serial number :( K3OOL - Craig - PA - K2 - 4790 W0QQS - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646 Signal reports: Tom - 579 to 599 depending upon where his beam was pointed. Russ - 559 to 579 due to the QSB Jim - 579 Bill - 589 to 599 due to slow QSB Rick - 559 due to QRP and Geography ;) Jim - 599 Fred - 589 which is surprising since he is normally too close Karl - 339 due to mountainous terrain! Mike - 449 Craig - 569 Bruce - 579 with some QSB If there are any errors please send the change report and I'll list it here and correct my database. Thanks to the two fellows who waited till the end and told me TNX. It is nice to know there are folks who listen to me the whole way through :) Sending the list at the end is always a good bit of practice after 40 minutes of the net! One day I may get better at this but don't hold your breath ;) 73 All, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/146 - Release Date: 10/21/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Neurotic about Toroids
IF YOU'RE THAT NEUROTIC ABOUT WINDING TOROIDS AND STRIPPING TINNING THE LEADS, WHY NOT BUY THEM PRE-WOUND FROM THE TOROID GUY? I USED HIS SERVICES FOR BOTH MY K2 AND KX1, AND I COULD NOT HAVE BEEN MORE PLEASED ... THE COST WAS RELATIVELY SMALL, THE QUALITY WAS VERY HIGH, AND I SAVED HOURS OF AGGRAVATION AND ANXIETY BY GOING THIS ROUTE ... Thank you for your reply. I wish to have the satisfaction of taking responsibility for making the coils myself and seeing them work in practice. Plus, I need to get over my anxiety and just do it. Lee KI6AZS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Question on KDSP2
Tom, My KDSP2 works as you described, however, my KDSP2 flash firmware (first number shown) version is 3.18 and KDSP2 microcontroller firmware second number shown) is 3.10 If I read the errata sheet correctly, you'll need the KDSP2 microcontroller firmware version (second number shown) 3.10 for the short cuts to work. On Sun, 23 Oct 2005 21:28:45 -0400, Tom McCulloch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have K2 firmware version 2.04P installed in my K2, as shown when I press any key on power up. I also have KDSP2 firmware version 3.16 installed. as shown on the display when entering the appropriate commands. According to the KDSP2 Manual Errata (presently posted on the Elecraft web site) I should be able to toggle the Autonotch and the Denoiser on and off directly from the K2 front panel by simultaneously pressing and holding AFIL+SPLIT and AFIL+REC, respectively. When I do this I get a message on the LED Not Installed (appropriately abbreviated, of course). I am able to perform all of the other DSP functions except for these. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong or how I can track down this problem ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
