Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic --- Way OT!

[Kevin Rock]

I have a very nice Calcomp Graphics tablet which runs on the ADB 
connection to my Mac IIvx.  Unfortunately I cannot find a way to move the 
pad over to my present Win2K box.  Any thoughts on how to run Apple 
Desktop Bus units on either USB or RS232 connections?  The tablet is 
powered by the ADB but I could run from external power.  It is rather 
large with an 18x24 inch active area but I was creating architectural 
drawings and topographic maps at the time.  Saves on having to splice 
drawings together inside Photoshop too.  If anyone has any hints on how to 
get it running on this modern boxes I am all ears.

   Kevin.  KD5ONS



On Tue, 22 Nov 2005 19:05:01 -0800, Jack Brindle 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Let's not get into an argument on this... The latest spec is RS-232F,  I 
believe. It now contains definitions for the DB25 and RJ-45  connectors 
and maybe a few others. At over $100 for the spec, I don't  have a 
strong desire to find out what else. Amazingly, it does not  contain 
definitions for the commonly-used DE9 connector.


In D-shell connectors, the second letter specifies the size of the  
connector shell. There are many pinouts and arrangements used in B- 
sized shells, including Sun's video connections. The 15 pin connector  
uses an A shell, while the 9 an E shell. Now that we note this, I  
seriously doubt that we have any chance of convincing the world to  use 
the correct nomenclature, are we...


And lastly, the Macintosh has never used RS-232 levels on its serial  
ports. Instead, they (we for a while) used RS422 levels, centered  
around zero volts. This allowed the creation of AppleTalk and its  
predecessor, AppleBus. It also allowed interfacing to the outside  world 
and the commonly  used RS-232 levels. All have now been phased  out and 
Apple uses Ethernet and USB on its systems.


OK, so now back to our regularly scheduled radio  discussions...   ;-) 
:-) :-)



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Jack Brindle]

Let's not get into an argument on this... The latest spec is RS-232F,  
I believe. It now contains definitions for the DB25 and RJ-45  
connectors and maybe a few others. At over $100 for the spec, I don't  
have a strong desire to find out what else. Amazingly, it does not  
contain definitions for the commonly-used DE9 connector.


In D-shell connectors, the second letter specifies the size of the  
connector shell. There are many pinouts and arrangements used in B- 
sized shells, including Sun's video connections. The 15 pin connector  
uses an A shell, while the 9 an E shell. Now that we note this, I  
seriously doubt that we have any chance of convincing the world to  
use the correct nomenclature, are we...


And lastly, the Macintosh has never used RS-232 levels on its serial  
ports. Instead, they (we for a while) used RS422 levels, centered  
around zero volts. This allowed the creation of AppleTalk and its  
predecessor, AppleBus. It also allowed interfacing to the outside  
world and the commonly  used RS-232 levels. All have now been phased  
out and Apple uses Ethernet and USB on its systems.


OK, so now back to our regularly scheduled radio  
discussions...   ;-) :-) :-)



On Nov 22, 2005, at 6:28 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Just a tid-bit of information here (useless though it may be) - the  
RS232
standard does specify a connector - and in fact it is the DB-25  
connector.

Other connector configurations may carry the RS-232 signal levels and
signalling protocol, and can come in many different flavors.  The  
one we
seem to be most concerned with is the DB-9 (more properly a DE-9)  
connector
which has become the de-facto 'standard' on IBM compatible PCs.   
The Apple
world has used mini-din connectors for most everything (including  
RS-232

level signals) for a long time.

73,
Don W3FPR


-Original Message-


Actually RS-232 refers to the signal names and levels, although a
DE-9 (Cannon nomenclature) connector is often used (sometimes it is a
DB-25, particularly for modems).

A good place to find information related to Macintosh radio
applications is the "ham-mac" mailing list .



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-Jack Brindle, W6FB
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Don Wilhelm]

Just a tid-bit of information here (useless though it may be) - the RS232
standard does specify a connector - and in fact it is the DB-25 connector.
Other connector configurations may carry the RS-232 signal levels and
signalling protocol, and can come in many different flavors.  The one we
seem to be most concerned with is the DB-9 (more properly a DE-9) connector
which has become the de-facto 'standard' on IBM compatible PCs.  The Apple
world has used mini-din connectors for most everything (including RS-232
level signals) for a long time.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
>
> Actually RS-232 refers to the signal names and levels, although a
> DE-9 (Cannon nomenclature) connector is often used (sometimes it is a
> DB-25, particularly for modems).
>
> A good place to find information related to Macintosh radio
> applications is the "ham-mac" mailing list  mailman/listinfo/ham-mac>.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Bob Nielsen]

On Nov 22, 2005, at 11:57 AM, Bekir Kemal Ataman wrote:


I am afraid vintage Macs do not have an RS232 port ;-)


If you don't have an RS232 port, you don't have a DTR to connect  
to, and you

won't be keying your K2 that way.


I must have misexpresed myself. Sorry about that. The Macs do have  
a serial
port but the connector is not an RS232. I do not know what they are  
called
but they are cylindrical in shape, like the mouse connectors on PCs  
and

they have got 8 pins in them. One of them gives the DTR.



Actually RS-232 refers to the signal names and levels, although a  
DE-9 (Cannon nomenclature) connector is often used (sometimes it is a  
DB-25, particularly for modems).


A good place to find information related to Macintosh radio  
applications is the "ham-mac" mailing list .


73,
Bob, N7XY



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[Elecraft] K2 For Sale

[Hauser, Ron M.]

Greetings Elecrafters!

I bought this used to try out the K2.  Elecraft definitely makes a good
radio!  I have done zero work on this radio, it probably ought to have
some upgrades, but it works great.  I have been using this rig daily for
CW for several months, and had hundreds of QSOs on 80, 40, 30, 20, 15,
and 10m.  Done plenty of listening on SSB but I don't have a mike, so I
haven't transmitted.  I am have to sell something off to get the next
radio, so I'm selling the K2 and then going to build some other stuff
(starting with a KX1).  

K2 Serial Number:  389
Firmware 1.04C 1.02
KSB option included
KBT2 option included
Unbuilt KNB2 included.

$600


73
--Ron
KC0TLN

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[Elecraft] Test, please ignore

[Hauser, Ron M.]

KC0TLN




Ron Hauser
Business Process Analyst
American Ingredients Company
816-763-8377 x134 
816-686-7653 cell

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[Elecraft] Free Batteries

[W0rw]

Batteries Plus or your local computer store maybe good places to find old
battery packs. Just ask the clerk if you have an old dead LiIon Battery Pack.
i just got an old HP Laptop battery pack and 4 of the 8 cells were good.
i got 4  good Sanyo  4UR18650-2-7 LiIon batteries out and charged them and now
i have a nice external 14.4VDC supply for my KX1 at 2.3 AmpHour.
The pack weight is only 6 oz.. The cells are 2.3 " x 0.75" each.
Do not exceed the 3.700 V charging voltage, Google your mfgr's spec sheet for
maximum charging voltage.
You may have to learn how to charge them.
They have NiCad's and NiMH's too...
Paul   
w0rw
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Bekir Kemal Ataman]

Great info Jack. Thanks for all the input.

I normally use a G3/300 for my daily work. My old Macs (7200 and 7400)
serve as my mail and web servers. I have also got a PB3400 lying around.

The story is this:

I got involved with Ham Radio after the terrible earthquake we experienced
in 1999, as a result of my search and rescue activities. Having grown (!)
to 100 kilos since than, I had to direct my interest to something technical
(like disaster communications), since I cannot go into collapsed buildings
with such a large body.

Seeing a KX-1 made by TA2AH, I thought I found my dream rig, the ultimate
disaster communications transceiver, since all you need is a few batteries
and a piece of wire to communicate with the rest of the world. I took the
exam and upgraded my licence, for the love of the KX-1. However, as things
turned out, I could not proceed with CW after a certain point, because I
could not stop translating everything into the dots and dashes in my mind,
no matter how hard I tried. So, I decided to give it a break for sometime.
Just then, TA2AH sold me his K2, to build himself a K1. Naturally, K2 won
over KX-1, since it has got other abilities on top of CW.

So, I started investigating about other ways of communication, namely the
digital. Because every mode has got different advantages in case of a
disaster (for example you cannot read a long list of needed suplies one by
one on voice, you need some form of digital communication).

Having a surplus PB3400 around, it became the natural choice for this
purpose. Thus the search for the pinouts.

I'll let you know how I proceed.

>There is another mailing list that Mac users should subscribe to.
>This is the Ham Mac list. For more info, or to subscribe, go to:
>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/ham-mac
>
>You will find all sorts of great folks there, including the authors
>of Mac ham software such as MultiMode and MacLogger DX.

And many thanks for this, too. Will go there straight away.

73!
BKA (TA2RX)



>As a Mac fan myself, I have lots of information to help. In fact,
>both Wayne and I here at Elecraft are primarily Mac users (but we use
>Windows and other systems as well). Connecting a Mac to the K2 is
>very easy, involving only three wires of the Mini-Din 8 bundle. The
>Mini-Din 8 appeared on all Macs from the Mac Plus until Async serial
>was dropped in favor of USB around the year 2000. The connectors are
>still used in several USB-Serial adapters, most notably the Keyspan
>dual-serial devices.
>
>I usually fabricate a serial cable by taking an existing Mini Din-8
>to Mini Din-8 cable and cutting it in half, then installing a male
>DE-9 with hood onto the cut end of the cable. You will need to make
>the following connections:
>
>Mini Din-8 DE9M (most folks call it a DB9M)
>5  2
>3  3
>4  5
>
>Identifying the Mini Din-8 pins can be difficult. The pins you need
>are in the middle row. The gap between pins 4 and 5 is noticeably
>larger than that between pins 3 and 4. You don't need to connect any
>other leads from the Mini Din-8 - in fact doing so could cause
>problems in the K2.
>
>As for Mac software and information, there is a wealth of info at the
>Mac Ham radio web site:
>http://www.machamradio.com/
>
>Most users have upgraded to MacOS X systems, but there are still
>quite a few folks still using older systems. Much f the older
>software still works just fine, and is there just for the asking or
>downloading!
>
>Good luck - if you need anything else, just ask.

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Jack Brindle]

There is another mailing list that Mac users should subscribe to.  
This is the Ham Mac list. For more info, or to subscribe, go to:

http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/ham-mac

You will find all sorts of great folks there, including the authors  
of Mac ham software such as MultiMode and MacLogger DX.


On Nov 22, 2005, at 12:06 PM, Bekir Kemal Ataman wrote:


RS-232 is a protocol.
DB-9 is a connector (so is your mini-DIN).
RS-232 via an RJ45 is still RS-232 (as it would be over 4 pair of
field-telephone wire).


I did not know that. Thanks for the info.


Sounds like you are good to go!


Will do.

73!
BKA (TA2RX)

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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-Jack Brindle, W6FB
===


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Re: RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[vze3v8dt]

I tried a USB to RS232 adapter made by Belkin a couple of months ago.  Sorry, I 
don't have the model # handy.  It seemed to work okay for both rig control 
(using the specified cable for the K2) as well as for CW keying (using the 
keying adapter I had previously built into a DB9 connector shell).  I was quite 
surprised this was the case as I expected at least one of the combinations to 
not work correctly.  My IBM laptop only has one RS232 port and one USB port on 
the back panel as well as another pair of USB2.0 ports that were added with a 
PCMCIA card.  I did very little testing with both of these 
modes/configurations, though, so I'm not sure if more extensive testing would 
have shown other problems.  I think the hardest thing about the rig control was 
to get the "virtual RS232" set up with a COM Port ID# in the range that the rig 
control program would accept, I think COM1 - COM4.  COM1 was already in use 
with the RS232 port on the back of the laptop and it defaulted to COM5 for the 
"virtual" port with the USB-RS232 adapter.  Once I had it redefined as either 
COM2 or COM4 I think it then worked okay.  I do know that not all USB to RS232 
adapters are created equal, so I wouldn't be anxious to buy and off brand to 
save a few dollars.  Even with the Belkin product I was a bit nervous because 
the case was one of those plastic cases that you can see through (Wow, look at 
the electronic parts inside of this Dongle!), so I was worried about it being 
susceptible to my Tx or likewis if it would be spewing noise that my Rx 
wouldn't like.  As it was just running QRP and later 100W I didn't see any 
problems from the Tx side and didn't really notice any on the Rx side.  Again, 
I didn't do extensive testing though, and higher power may be a problem, or as 
they say "Individual Results May Vary".  I bought mine at Staples where there 
was a 100% return policy if not 100% satisfied.  

Mark, NK8Q

 However, I know
>nothing about USB/rs232 adapters/software.
>
>Dan / WG4S / K2 #2345
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Jack Brindle]

As a Mac fan myself, I have lots of information to help. In fact,  
both Wayne and I here at Elecraft are primarily Mac users (but we use  
Windows and other systems as well). Connecting a Mac to the K2 is  
very easy, involving only three wires of the Mini-Din 8 bundle. The  
Mini-Din 8 appeared on all Macs from the Mac Plus until Async serial  
was dropped in favor of USB around the year 2000. The connectors are  
still used in several USB-Serial adapters, most notably the Keyspan  
dual-serial devices.


I usually fabricate a serial cable by taking an existing Mini Din-8  
to Mini Din-8 cable and cutting it in half, then installing a male  
DE-9 with hood onto the cut end of the cable. You will need to make  
the following connections:


Mini Din-8  DE9M (most folks call it a DB9M)
5   2
3   3
4   5

Identifying the Mini Din-8 pins can be difficult. The pins you need  
are in the middle row. The gap between pins 4 and 5 is noticeably  
larger than that between pins 3 and 4. You don't need to connect any  
other leads from the Mini Din-8 - in fact doing so could cause  
problems in the K2.


As for Mac software and information, there is a wealth of info at the  
Mac Ham radio web site:

http://www.machamradio.com/

Most users have upgraded to MacOS X systems, but there are still  
quite a few folks still using older systems. Much f the older  
software still works just fine, and is there just for the asking or  
downloading!


Good luck - if you need anything else, just ask.

On Nov 22, 2005, at 12:06 PM, Bekir Kemal Ataman wrote:


RS-232 is a protocol.
DB-9 is a connector (so is your mini-DIN).
RS-232 via an RJ45 is still RS-232 (as it would be over 4 pair of
field-telephone wire).


I did not know that. Thanks for the info.


Sounds like you are good to go!


Will do.

73!
BKA (TA2RX)

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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-Jack Brindle, W6FB
===


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[Elecraft] k2 sold

[Irelands Satellite]

Hi Guys, The k2 and transverters are now sold. Thanks to all who e 
mailed me and also thanks for the use of the mailing list.




73 Ei7BMB








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Regards  Tony Moore
Phone 01 452 6039
 086 260 7864
Shop at www.satellite.ie
E mail [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Satellite.ie
3 Deselby Close
Tallaght
Dublin 24
VAT No: IE3864265K

The contents of this email and any attachments are confidential.
It is intended for the named recipient  only.
If you have received this email in error please notify the system 
manager or the

sender immediately and do not disclose the contents to any one or make copies


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Bekir Kemal Ataman]

>RS-232 is a protocol.
>DB-9 is a connector (so is your mini-DIN).
>RS-232 via an RJ45 is still RS-232 (as it would be over 4 pair of
>field-telephone wire).

I did not know that. Thanks for the info.

>Sounds like you are good to go!

Will do.

73!
BKA (TA2RX)

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Dan Barker]

RS-232 is a protocol.

DB-9 is a connector (so is your mini-DIN).

RS-232 via an RJ45 is still RS-232 (as it would be over 4 pair of
field-telephone wire).

Sounds like you are good to go!

Dan

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bekir Kemal Ataman
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 2:58 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic


>> I am afraid vintage Macs do not have an RS232 port ;-)
>
>If you don't have an RS232 port, you don't have a DTR to connect to, and
you
>won't be keying your K2 that way.

I must have misexpresed myself. Sorry about that. The Macs do have a serial
port but the connector is not an RS232. I do not know what they are called
but they are cylindrical in shape, like the mouse connectors on PCs and
they have got 8 pins in them. One of them gives the DTR.

>All computer keyers are "straight key" to the K2, iambic is only for manual
>paddles. Alternatively, some control programs tell the K2 to send the code,
>but sending "KEY THIS" commands over the RS-232.

Good to know. Thanks for the info.

73!
BKA (TA2RX)

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Bekir Kemal Ataman]

>> I am afraid vintage Macs do not have an RS232 port ;-)
>
>If you don't have an RS232 port, you don't have a DTR to connect to, and you
>won't be keying your K2 that way.

I must have misexpresed myself. Sorry about that. The Macs do have a serial
port but the connector is not an RS232. I do not know what they are called
but they are cylindrical in shape, like the mouse connectors on PCs and
they have got 8 pins in them. One of them gives the DTR.

>All computer keyers are "straight key" to the K2, iambic is only for manual
>paddles. Alternatively, some control programs tell the K2 to send the code,
>but sending "KEY THIS" commands over the RS-232.

Good to know. Thanks for the info.

73!
BKA (TA2RX)

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Dan Barker]

> I am afraid vintage Macs do not have an RS232 port ;-)

If you don't have an RS232 port, you don't have a DTR to connect to, and you
won't be keying your K2 that way.

> Hmmm. I'll have to read MultiMode manual further to figure out which
method
> it uses, straight key or iambic... I have got a feeling I'll have to
> experiment with this setting a little. I hope I do not burn anything on
the
> way.

All computer keyers are "straight key" to the K2, iambic is only for manual
paddles. Alternatively, some control programs tell the K2 to send the code,
but sending "KEY THIS" commands over the RS-232.

I'm not sure what you can do if you don't have RS-232 available. However,
even old macs had USB, so you may not be toast quite yet. However, I know
nothing about USB/rs232 adapters/software.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2345

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RE: [Elecraft] SSB with K2 [was KPA100 stripped final's screw removal]

[Don Wilhelm]

Bekir,

The power output from your K2 is indeed low and your current draw is higher
than normal.
When this condition exists, the first thing to suspect is the Low Pass
Filters.

Check the inductors for the proper number of turns (count the turns as thay
pass through the center of the core - if the outside is counted, you may be
one turn in error).

Check the capacitors for proper values (look on the schematic to see the
correct values).

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Although my QTH is blocked by a nearby hill in the East and
> another nearish
> hill in the North, I have worked quite a few countries with less than 8
> Watts. (My rig does not go above 7.1 to 7.3 Watts, giving a Hi
> Cur warning.
> I just hope this is normal. Cal Cur is set at 3.5 Ampers)
>

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[Elecraft] RE: Computer-noise

[Martin]

Hello elecrafters,

thanks to all who responded.
It turned out that there are no suppression components inside the
power supply of my computer. You can seee the outlines of the
commponents on the PCB, but the CŽs are not in place and the LŽs are
substituted by jumper wires.
I replaced it by another PSU i recently took out of my sons computer
because it was too loud ( small fan at high speed). Now the RFI is
gone. This psu IS equipped with suppression components.

Both PSUŽs carry the CE and US FCC type acceptance sign!
Well, after all i am a lucky guy. I have about 28 or so
switching type psuŽs in my house including all computers, cd-player,
tv-set, satellite receiver, wall-chargers, psu for network-components,
dsl, printer, etc. None of them radiates (as far as i can tell).


-- 
Best regards,
 Martin , ex DL1iAQ
K2 #2706  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Bekir Kemal Ataman]

>The diodes are doing two different things. Wire them up! It works great
>here.

Will do.

>In this case, you are using the computer RS-232 to key the rig, so you'll
>definitely be building a custom cable - TxD and RxD to the K2, DTR to your
>keying circuit (btw, this can fit into the DB9 shell), and NC all the K2
>specific lines.

I am afraid vintage Macs do not have an RS232 port ;-)

>The two diodes on the K2 end are to allow ADET operation (a keyer and a
>straightkey/computer simultaneously connected). If the DTR line pulls the
>pair of diodes low, both DIT and DAH go low together and the K2 assumes a
>straight key. If they go low at different times, the K2 assumes iambic
>keying and acts appropriately.
>
>So ops (up at twice the speed I can run) can fool ADET and need to turn it
>off. They don't need the diodes but must switch from paddles to SK/Computer
>with the menu.
>
>Other ops only ever do it one way or the other - and switch off ADET too.

Hmmm. I'll have to read MultiMode manual further to figure out which method
it uses, straight key or iambic... I have got a feeling I'll have to
experiment with this setting a little. I hope I do not burn anything on the
way.

Thanks for the input.

73!
BKA (TA2RX)

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ K6XX CW Visual Tuning Indicator Status

[Edward R. Breneiser]

Hello all,

I've been overwhelmed by the response to this little kit!
Rather than clog up all the reflectors with email about this kit,
I've started a K6XX CW Indicator Kit Page on my website.
All can check your order status and 2nd round order status at this site.
You can also order at this site. 

For those you who don't know about this kit, it's a small SMD kit that
installs in an Elecraft KX1, K1 or K2 qrp rig. It can also be installed
in other rigs as well. Use the K1 kit for those orders.

Please order from the website and not on the reflectors. Also if you use
PayPal, please place your callsign in the comments section.

Check out the new page at:

http://www.wa3wsj.com

Now I have to go eat some lunch!

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Dan Barker]

The diodes are doing two different things. Wire them up! It works great
here.

In this case, you are using the computer RS-232 to key the rig, so you'll
definitely be building a custom cable - TxD and RxD to the K2, DTR to your
keying circuit (btw, this can fit into the DB9 shell), and NC all the K2
specific lines.

The two diodes on the K2 end are to allow ADET operation (a keyer and a
straightkey/computer simultaneously connected). If the DTR line pulls the
pair of diodes low, both DIT and DAH go low together and the K2 assumes a
straight key. If they go low at different times, the K2 assumes iambic
keying and acts appropriately.

So ops (up at twice the speed I can run) can fool ADET and need to turn it
off. They don't need the diodes but must switch from paddles to SK/Computer
with the menu.

Other ops only ever do it one way or the other - and switch off ADET too.

hth,

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bekir Kemal Ataman
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 1:04 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic


>Yes, and then you get to buy a bunch of parts for your KIO2!
>
>DO NOT CONNECT RS-232 to your KIO2 without opening all unused (by RS-232)
>pins. ONly Sig Ground, TX and RX go from computer to K2. All other lines on
>the KIO2 are not RS-232 and can't tolerate the +- 15V the computer will
>supply.

Do not worry. I am one of those old generation (!) people who do not move a
finger without reading the manual first. >;-)

Now, as for reading manuals, I have got an interesting case for all of you
to comment on.

Multimode's Documentation starts by saying the following for transmitting
(receiving is via the sound output of the rig):

"If you also want to transmit, you'll need to connect the audio output
(speaker) jack of your Mac to your radio's microphone input jack. You may
need to reduce the audio amplitude using a
potentiometer, or attenuating audio cable. Many have sucessfully usd the
RigBlaster, made by
West Mountain Radio (http://www.westmountainradio.com/)."

Then goes onto describe the procedure for PTT and CW:

"For transmitting, you may want to be able to control your radio's PTT
(Push To Talk) line. A
PTT output is generated from the DTR output of the Mac's serial port. A CW
key output is
generated from the Transmit Data output."

The diagram in the Documentation depicts a little circuit on the line from
Mac's serial port to the CW Key control (and a smilar one to the PTT) such
that:

Mac Serial Port --> Diode (1N4148, etc.) --> 2.2k Resistor --> Transistor
(2N, etc.) -->PTT

The other leg of the Transistor goes to ground. On a diversion from this
line, there is a diode (1N4001, etc) which then connects to the first leg
of the transistor going to the PTT.

[I hope I haven't described it too badly. The diagram is on p4. of
MultiModeDocs.pdf. I tried to attach it to this message but the list does
not accept attachments.]

The documentation describes the way the circuit works as follows:

"When the serial port output goes positive, it biases the transistor, so
the collector can sink
current. The 1N4148 diode protects the transistor when the serial port
output is negative. The
1N4001 protects the transistor against flyback from a relay that might be
lurking in the radio.
A faster diode would probably offer additional protection.
The connection on the Mac end would go to the DTR output line. If you'd
like to use a similar
circuit for CW key control, then it would go to the TxD+ line (or TxD- if
you need to invert the
logic of the output)."

There is no problem as far as this description is concerned. All sounds
logical.

Looking at things from the K2 side, p. 95 of the manual says that I should
have two diodes (one on each line from the dot and dash connections) on the
cables going to the computer, when I connect it in parallel to a paddle.

And it describes the reason as:

"When you connect the keying device in this way, you can continue to use
the paddle as usual. But if the external keying device is keyed, both the
DOT and DASH lines will be pulled low simultaneously, via the diodes. The
K2 firmware interprets this as direct external keying rather than as DOT
and DASH triggers."

This sounds quite logical, too.

However, when you bring the two descriptions together on a single circuit
an interesting case occurs. Now, I am not exactly a techie type person and
learnt electronics just enough to pass the exam BUT AFAIK having diodes on
both ends (i.e. on the computer side as well as the K2 side), each
protecting their own respective device, there will not be any current
flowing.

Am I wrong? Or should I put the circuit together and test it anyway?

Thanks for your help in advance.

73!
BKA (TA2RX)




--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2: DSP for CW ?

[Simon Brown (HB9DRV)]

Thanks, sadly this looks like a DSP2 will be part of the order. Please 
inform my bank manager :-)


Simon Brown
---
www.hb9drv.ch www.laax.ch

- Original Message - 
From: "Lyle Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



[1] Does the DSP2 add significant extra current drain in RX? This is an 
important criteria as I'll be using batteries / solar cells and will have 
up to 6 AH of battery with me (2 x 3AH).


The KDSP2 has a "bypass" mode where the DSP itself goes to sleep and the 
CODEC is in analog loopback mode.  The added current drain in this 
configuration is about 10 mA.


When it is operational, the KDSP2 adds about 60 mA to the base K2, or 50 
mA more than bypass mode.


73,

Lyle KK7P



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RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Bekir Kemal Ataman]

>Yes, and then you get to buy a bunch of parts for your KIO2!
>
>DO NOT CONNECT RS-232 to your KIO2 without opening all unused (by RS-232)
>pins. ONly Sig Ground, TX and RX go from computer to K2. All other lines on
>the KIO2 are not RS-232 and can't tolerate the +- 15V the computer will
>supply.

Do not worry. I am one of those old generation (!) people who do not move a
finger without reading the manual first. >;-)

Now, as for reading manuals, I have got an interesting case for all of you
to comment on.

Multimode's Documentation starts by saying the following for transmitting
(receiving is via the sound output of the rig):

"If you also want to transmit, you'll need to connect the audio output
(speaker) jack of your Mac to your radio's microphone input jack. You may
need to reduce the audio amplitude using a
potentiometer, or attenuating audio cable. Many have sucessfully usd the
RigBlaster, made by
West Mountain Radio (http://www.westmountainradio.com/)."

Then goes onto describe the procedure for PTT and CW:

"For transmitting, you may want to be able to control your radio's PTT
(Push To Talk) line. A
PTT output is generated from the DTR output of the Mac's serial port. A CW
key output is
generated from the Transmit Data output."

The diagram in the Documentation depicts a little circuit on the line from
Mac's serial port to the CW Key control (and a smilar one to the PTT) such
that:

Mac Serial Port --> Diode (1N4148, etc.) --> 2.2k Resistor --> Transistor
(2N, etc.) -->PTT

The other leg of the Transistor goes to ground. On a diversion from this
line, there is a diode (1N4001, etc) which then connects to the first leg
of the transistor going to the PTT.

[I hope I haven't described it too badly. The diagram is on p4. of
MultiModeDocs.pdf. I tried to attach it to this message but the list does
not accept attachments.]

The documentation describes the way the circuit works as follows:

"When the serial port output goes positive, it biases the transistor, so
the collector can sink
current. The 1N4148 diode protects the transistor when the serial port
output is negative. The
1N4001 protects the transistor against flyback from a relay that might be
lurking in the radio.
A faster diode would probably offer additional protection.
The connection on the Mac end would go to the DTR output line. If you'd
like to use a similar
circuit for CW key control, then it would go to the TxD+ line (or TxD- if
you need to invert the
logic of the output)."

There is no problem as far as this description is concerned. All sounds
logical.

Looking at things from the K2 side, p. 95 of the manual says that I should
have two diodes (one on each line from the dot and dash connections) on the
cables going to the computer, when I connect it in parallel to a paddle.

And it describes the reason as:

"When you connect the keying device in this way, you can continue to use
the paddle as usual. But if the external keying device is keyed, both the
DOT and DASH lines will be pulled low simultaneously, via the diodes. The
K2 firmware interprets this as direct external keying rather than as DOT
and DASH triggers."

This sounds quite logical, too.

However, when you bring the two descriptions together on a single circuit
an interesting case occurs. Now, I am not exactly a techie type person and
learnt electronics just enough to pass the exam BUT AFAIK having diodes on
both ends (i.e. on the computer side as well as the K2 side), each
protecting their own respective device, there will not be any current
flowing.

Am I wrong? Or should I put the circuit together and test it anyway?

Thanks for your help in advance.

73!
BKA (TA2RX)




--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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[Elecraft] To Mark, NK8Q only. Please ignore.

[Bekir Kemal Ataman]

I have replied to your mail but your mail server says my server is in their
black list for some reason. Have you got another mail address?

73!
BKA (TA2RX)

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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[Elecraft] N1MM/AGC Pumping

[Gary Bartlett VE1RGB]

Hi, folks:

   I believe this has been pointed out before, but just for the record, I 
too am experiencing AGC pumping with my K2/100 when running N1MM contest 
logging software.  It's not a problem with the DX4WIN general logging 
program. When conditions are busy, it's not noticeable.  Late at night, 
however, when the bands are relatively quiet, it becomes quite evident.  A 
fix for it would be nice, but I rate it as a minor nuisance rather than a 
show-stopper.


   My K2/100 is integrated with those two programs and a new laptop, 
without serial ports, using a K1EL WinKey and serial-to-USB adapters (the 
latter being a whole 'nuther story unto themselves). Sounds simple doesn't 
it, but it has taken me two months and the assistance of half the amateur 
radio population of NA to deal with the issues that I confronted when I 
tried to venture into this area of technology which was entirely new to me.


   73,
   Gary, VE1RGB

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Re: [Elecraft] SSB with K2 [was KPA100 stripped final's screw removal]

[Bob Nielsen]

On Nov 22, 2005, at 2:01 AM, Bekir Kemal Ataman wrote:


I think many "Elekrafters" enjoy CW because the radios (K1, KX1, K2)
have such nice characteristics as CW rigs


I can understand people preferring CW because of having CW Rigs and  
vice
versa but if it is reaching a point of ejecting/rejecting others  
for not

having the same preferences then we have got a problem.

I think most will welcome you here, and the cw / ssb rivalry is  
all in

fun (or so it seems to me).


I just hope it is. Otherwise I'd really be disappointed.


Don't worry about it.  There are a few fanatics, but most of us like  
to operate both modes.  Remember that this list also supports the K1  
and KX1, both of which are CW-only, so there may me more messages  
regarding CW than SSB.





So what antenna(s) are you using with your K2, and what bands are you
using it most on?


I have got a 4-band inverted-V on 10, 20, 40 and 80 meters about 20  
meters

off the ground. I managed to get SWRs less than 1.2 on all bands after
struggling for a few weeks on the roof of our apartment block. It  
seems it

was worth the trouble.

Although my QTH is blocked by a nearby hill in the East and another  
nearish
hill in the North, I have worked quite a few countries with less  
than 8
Watts. (My rig does not go above 7.1 to 7.3 Watts, giving a Hi Cur  
warning.

I just hope this is normal. Cal Cur is set at 3.5 Ampers)



This sounds like there may be a possible problem.  Is it this way on  
all bands?  You should be able to get ~15 watts output from a K2.


When I could hear the stations early enough, I have managed to  
contact a
few Japanese stations, too. When I am little late, my signals get  
lost in
the pileup. The European DX Net organized by I2ZGC, Gianni helped  
me make
contact with a few North African stations but I could not hear/get  
heard by

stations in South Africa nor Indonesia. I sometimes hear a few North
American stations early in the morning but even then they are very  
weak

most of the time.

I work on 40 and 80 meters at night and 20 meters during the day,  
mostly. I
could not hear anyone on 10 meters so far. It seems to be very  
quite in
this part of the world. Perhaps I just wonder around the wrong  
frequencies
or just at the wrong time. I cannot go in the air very often  
because of
work load during the week and because of XYL QRM at weekends but I  
try to

join contests whenever I can. It is great fun.



We are nearing the bottom of the sunspot cycle and propagation  
conditions favor the lower frequencies (10 meters will be useless  
much of the time).  In 4 or 5 years, conditions will be much improved  
on the higher frequencies, so we all need to be patient.  In 2001,  
conditions were much better and I was able to work 100 countries  
running 5 watts into a 30 meter long wire antenna (non-resonant)  
which was only 4 meters above the ground.  These contacts were a  
mixture of CW and SSB and many were on 10 meters.  There is a 10  
meter DX contest which will take place on 10-11 December and that  
will bring out many more operators to that band than you will find  
presently.  I'm sure that your "TA" prefix will be very welcome in  
that contest.


73,
Bob Nielsen, N7XY



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[Elecraft] K2 Update Assistance - Mods and Kits

[Paul Guido]

All,

My wife and I are discussing Christmas gifts for the coming season. I
feel that some additional Elecraft hardware should in order. But the
decision is difficult because I am not up to date with the latest kits
and modifications.

Christmas 2002 I received the KPA100 for my K2 SN #1308. This kit has
yet to be built. We moved soon after that Christmas and the new house
had no natural kit building area. Bad move on my part but it is now
corrected.

I built a new shack in my back yard that was designed for storage,
hobbies and kit building. I have been back on the air for the last six
months and now the shack is ready for kit building.

My K2 currently is configured with these kits and modifications:
K2# 1308
KSB2
K160RX
KAF2
KIO2
KNB2
KAT2
KBT2
Lifted T2 Mod for 10 Meters
PSK31 mod for KSB2
Sinewave Sidetone Mod
Better grounding of crystals X7-X11
Rewiring from balanced to unbalanced audio pot
Improved version of 2nd stage Crystal filter mod
Replaced L33 with inductor wound on a core.

In looking at my KPA100 kit and I have the "Rev A, May 13 2002" manual.
I think that I should get the following before starting the kit.

Download the latest Manual.
KPA100MODKT - Improves high SWR operation
KPA100SHLDKT - Shield Upgrade: Since it was shipped in 2002.

E100075SS - K2 Rear Panel Upgrade: I will get the K60XV in the future.

Maybe updated firmware since it came with K2MCU 2.03d.

What other kits should I get to reduce rework on the KPA100?  What
other essential modifications should be done while I have the radio
apart?

Thank you,

Paul Guido

N5IUT K2# 1308
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Dan Barker]

Yes, and then you get to buy a bunch of parts for your KIO2!

DO NOT CONNECT RS-232 to your KIO2 without opening all unused (by RS-232)
pins. ONly Sig Ground, TX and RX go from computer to K2. All other lines on
the KIO2 are not RS-232 and can't tolerate the +- 15V the computer will
supply.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

BKA wrote :

> Do you happen to have the cable pin-out diagram for connecting an old
> Mac
> to a K2?

Michael Babineau Replied:

No I don't, but probably the easiest way to do this would be to to find
a
Mac specific Modem Cable (Ebay for $4 US).  It will have the correct DIN
connector for the Classic Mac serial port and a DB-25 connector at the
other end. My guess is that you would just need a DB-25 to DB-9 adaptor
to connect the cable up to the K2 (it looks like the KIO2 has a DB-9
on it).  The adaptor, I believe, should be straight through as I am
assuming
that the computer would view the K2 as being DCE, just like a modem.

Michael VE3WMB

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[Elecraft] Test 2, please ignore

[Hauser, Ron M.]

KC0TLN  again.




Ron Hauser
Business Process Analyst
American Ingredients Company
816-763-8377 x134 
816-686-7653 cell

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Re: [Elecraft] K2: DSP for CW ?

[Lyle Johnson]

[1] Does the DSP2 add significant extra current drain in RX? This is an 
important criteria as I'll be using batteries / solar cells and will 
have up to 6 AH of battery with me (2 x 3AH).


The KDSP2 has a "bypass" mode where the DSP itself goes to sleep and the 
CODEC is in analog loopback mode.  The added current drain in this 
configuration is about 10 mA.


When it is operational, the KDSP2 adds about 60 mA to the base K2, or 50 
mA more than bypass mode.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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[Elecraft] Test, please ignore

[Hauser, Ron M.]

KC0TLN




Ron Hauser
Business Process Analyst
American Ingredients Company
816-763-8377 x134 
816-686-7653 cell

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re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic

[Michael Babineau VE3WMB]

BKA wrote :

Do you happen to have the cable pin-out diagram for connecting an old 
Mac

to a K2?


No I don't, but probably the easiest way to do this would be to to find 
a

Mac specific Modem Cable (Ebay for $4 US).  It will have the correct DIN
connector for the Classic Mac serial port and a DB-25 connector at the
other end. My guess is that you would just need a DB-25 to DB-9 adaptor
to connect the cable up to the K2 (it looks like the KIO2 has a DB-9
on it).  The adaptor, I believe, should be straight through as I am 
assuming

that the computer would view the K2 as being DCE, just like a modem.

Michael VE3WMB

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[Elecraft] RE: Monitor Noise

[Cortland Richmond]

Jim - W0EB wrote

> I have to echo W3FPR's advice. I had a Viewsonic monitor myself, and I DID
> shield the inside, put ferrites on the VGA input cable, put chokes,
ferrites
> & capacitors on the AC input as well, and didn't even manage to reduce the
> radiated noise. I suspect it's coming from the CRT itself. You will most
> likely spend more money trying to fix that monitor than you would buying
an

And it depends what kind of noise it is.  Swiching power supply, flyback,
or video. 

The last is characterized by very strong, stable carriers whose frequency
changes with display mode and whose strength changes with brigtness and
contrast. This makes sense, the electron beam is turned on and off fast (<
1ns) at pixel rates.  About 15 years ago, when I was working for a large
electronics retailer and (at the time) computer maker, I occasion to fix a
couple of  such monitors just to show the manufacturer it could be done. 
Their problem was associated with the CRT cathode current, and the radiated
field was strong enough that nearby equipment *that wasn't even turned on*
exceeded the FCC conducted emissions limit.

In these cases I was able to reduce emissions by adding capacitive coupling
between the CRT-mounted video amplifier and the tube. This was really just
a piece of thin sheet metal soldered to the teh cathode driver board's
ground plane and extended it forward, providing a return path for HF
current that would otherwise be radiated. I don't know if any manufacturer
actually did this, mind, but it's fairly easy to do. 

The usual caveats apply about working on CRT's. They're high voltage
devices and can deliver a dangerous shock some for time after being turned
off. 


Cortland
KA5S

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[Elecraft] KPA100 finals

[Jeremiah McCarthy]

The screws do not "back out", and any kind of product like Locktite would 
really mess things up making it impossible to tighten the screws or to replace 
the finals should you have a failed final transistor...During heat build-up in 
the transistor and the heat sink the expansion of parts compresses the 
insulators...Everything cools and shrinks back to normal, but the insulators do 
not, they are compressed, and that leaves things loose...

Make sure that the screw driver you are using is not a Reed and Prince instead 
of a Phillips...Reed and Prince drivers have a sharp point and Phillips, by 
comparison, have a blunt point...If a Reed and Prince screw driver is used on a 
Phillips screw, the point bottoms out in the screw before the side flutes are 
fully engaged and the crosshead of the screw might strip out...Some screw 
drivers sold as Phillips have too sharp a point...

Jerry, wa2dkg

>I have always used a high quality #1 screwdriver when I tightened these
screws, but it stripped out anyway. I use my K2/100s exclusively for
contesting and have been finding I need to re-tighten those screws after
20-30 hours of full bore operating (100 watts, lots of CQs). Maybe a
Lock-tight type product is needed to keep the screws from backing out after
thermal cycling, but some of you may have some advice whether this should be
done or not. Anyway, in case you find your final's screw stripped, this
method worked for me.<
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 stripped final's screw removal

[Don Brown]

Hi

I believe the screws loosen due to the thermal pads compressing not the 
screws backing off. The lock washers should prevent the screws from backing 
off and locktite may make the screws impossible to remove. Once the pads are 
fully compressed the screws should not loosen, but it may take a couple of 
times at 10-20 hour operation intervals to fully compress the pads. These 
pads are not insulators, they are for heat transfer only and they have a 
coating that slightly melts under high temperature. This coating fills all 
of the gaps under heat and compression and forms a good thermal path to the 
heatsink.

Sears sells a small kit of stripped screw removal tools. These tools bite 
into the head of a stripped screw making it easy to remove. Screwdrivers 
will ware out and start slipping in the slots. Mt favorite screwdriver is a 
magnetic hand tool that holds the bits for power drivers. These bits are 
much harder than most standard screwdrivers and can be easily swapped out if 
they are worn. The magnet also holds the screw for starting or removing and 
the handle of the screwdriver holds several different bits. The handle of 
this screwdriver locks or it can ratchet in either direction. Most large 
hardware stores carry these screwdrivers.

Don Brown
KD5NDB




- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Evans" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 7:40 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 stripped final's screw removal


> Hi Folks,
>
>
>
> This may not be a very high tech solution, but it got me out of a 
> perceived
> pickle.  I had stripped one of the screws securing the final transistors 
> to
> the heat sink in one of my K2/100s.  I was thinking "how the heck am I 
> going
> to remove a stripped screw in such a tight space?".  A friend had 
> suggested
> super gluing a Phillips screwdriver into the stripped screw.  I tried it 
> and
> the super glue didn't hold.  Then I thought I could drill and tap the 
> screw
> out, but I couldn't find a tap that was small enough.  What finally worked
> was simply to drill into the center of the screw until the screw head
> detached from the screw shaft.  It took a 5/64" bit.  I had loosened all 
> the
> other screws on the board and the board simply lifted away from the heat
> sink when the screw head separated from the shaft.  With the board 
> removed,
> the screw shaft could easily be unscrewed from the heat sink and replaced
> with a new screw.  By the way, I turned the KPA100 board screw-head-down
> when I drilled so there wouldn't be much of a chance for metal splinters
> getting into the board.  It worked!
>
>
>
> I have always used a high quality #1 screwdriver when I tightened these
> screws, but it stripped out anyway.  I use my K2/100s exclusively for
> contesting and have been finding I need to re-tighten those screws after
> 20-30 hours of full bore operating (100 watts, lots of CQs).  Maybe a
> Lock-tight type product is needed to keep the screws from backing out 
> after
> thermal cycling, but some of you may have some advice whether this should 
> be
> done or not.  Anyway, in case you find your final's screw stripped, this
> method worked for me.
>
>
>
> P.S.  I played around in ARRL SS SSB this past weekend.  The K2 is a GREAT
> side band radio too!  I know, I know.I can get ejected from this reflector
> for such heresy.  ;-)
>
>
>
> 73,
>
> Bob K5WA
>
> K2s #4687 and #5119 in SO2R configuration
>
>
>
>
>
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> 
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RE: [Elecraft] Actual power out and the WM-2

[Don Wilhelm]

Vin,

What you are observing at the low end is differences in the diode
characteristics.  The WM-2 has a diode compensation circuit which attempt to
correct the readings at low power levels while the KAT1 does not - so the
WM-2 is likely more correct at the low end

The difference at the high end does not have such a straightforward and easy
answer.  You might look into your dummy load, the length of coax between the
KAT1 and the WM-2 and various other factors for the answer.  Try another
band, you could find the difference is frequency dependent too.

If you have a good 50 ohm non-reactive dummy load (check it with an antenna
analyzer to be certain), you can read the RF voltage across the dummy load
with a calibrated 'scope or an RF probe and calculate the power.  This
method is quite accurate (better than most wattmeters), but is highly
dependent on the accuracy of the dummy load.

BTW - I do not perceive anything really bad here - just inaccuracies.
Equate that to the man with two watches - he never knew what time it was
.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I have been enjoying my K1-4 immensely for many months now, and
> am getting ready to build the KAT-1.  But I decided to build my
> OHR WM-2 first, so as to get a good idea of how the antenna tuner
> is actually performing.  Well, the meter went together on a
> Sunday afternoon/evening very nicely, but there is one thing I noticed.
>
> My K1 goes from 100 mW to about 7.1 W according to the front
> panel display (of the K1).  Now, when I look at the power out on
> the meter, I see good agreement with that from around say 2 watts
> to about 5 watts.  But at the low and high end, the meter reads
> high.  Approximately 300 mW when the radio says 100 mW, and about
> 6 watts when the radio says 5 watts.  At the top end, the
> difference is even a little worse, approx 8.5 watts on the WM-2
> when the K1 says 7 watts.
>
>

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RE: [Elecraft] Actual power out and the WM-2

[Dan Barker]

You don't mention the quality of the dummy load on the end of the K1 and/or
WM-2. It really matters.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456


But at the low and high end, the meter reads high.


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[Elecraft] Actual power out and the WM-2

[V Cortina]

Hi everyone,

I have been enjoying my K1-4 immensely for many months now, and am getting 
ready to build the KAT-1.  But I decided to build my OHR WM-2 first, so as to 
get a good idea of how the antenna tuner is actually performing.  Well, the 
meter went together on a Sunday afternoon/evening very nicely, but there is one 
thing I noticed.

My K1 goes from 100 mW to about 7.1 W according to the front panel display (of 
the K1).  Now, when I look at the power out on the meter, I see good agreement 
with that from around say 2 watts to about 5 watts.  But at the low and high 
end, the meter reads high.  Approximately 300 mW when the radio says 100 mW, 
and about 6 watts when the radio says 5 watts.  At the top end, the difference 
is even a little worse, approx 8.5 watts on the WM-2 when the K1 says 7 watts.

Yes, I definitely checked and re-checked the calibration of the meter according 
to the manufacturer's instructions.  It occurred to me that maybe there is 
nothing really wrong, and that the K1 is just delivering more than it indicates 
at those levels.  My years of training and experience in electronics tells me 
that that is probably not the case.  The news is NEVER good.

I am certain many of you use the WM-2 with your K1's, so certainly someone must 
have some info on this.  And the bad news is...?


VinKR2F

K1 s/n: 1977
Vin 

Mount Tremper, NY
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[Elecraft] Re: WA3WSJ: K6XX CW Tuning Kit

[N2UZ]

Put me on the list ( 1 K2)

Jerry , N2UZ

Subject: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: K6XX CW Tuning Kit

Hello all,

It looks like the group buy is on! I have received 14 orders this
morning so here's who is in on the group buy to date:

KT5XS: 2ea. K1&K2 built
WB3AAL:2ea. K1&K2
PA2AM: 2ea. KX1&K2
W4GNS: 2ea. K1
W7RDP: 2ea. K1
M0BMN: 3ea. K1,K1,K2

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[Elecraft] SSB with K2 [was KPA100 stripped final's screw removal]

[Bekir Kemal Ataman]

>I think many "Elekrafters" enjoy CW because the radios (K1, KX1, K2)
>have such nice characteristics as CW rigs

I can understand people preferring CW because of having CW Rigs and vice
versa but if it is reaching a point of ejecting/rejecting others for not
having the same preferences then we have got a problem.

>I think most will welcome you here, and the cw / ssb rivalry is all in
>fun (or so it seems to me).

I just hope it is. Otherwise I'd really be disappointed.

>So what antenna(s) are you using with your K2, and what bands are you
>using it most on?

I have got a 4-band inverted-V on 10, 20, 40 and 80 meters about 20 meters
off the ground. I managed to get SWRs less than 1.2 on all bands after
struggling for a few weeks on the roof of our apartment block. It seems it
was worth the trouble.

Although my QTH is blocked by a nearby hill in the East and another nearish
hill in the North, I have worked quite a few countries with less than 8
Watts. (My rig does not go above 7.1 to 7.3 Watts, giving a Hi Cur warning.
I just hope this is normal. Cal Cur is set at 3.5 Ampers)

When I could hear the stations early enough, I have managed to contact a
few Japanese stations, too. When I am little late, my signals get lost in
the pileup. The European DX Net organized by I2ZGC, Gianni helped me make
contact with a few North African stations but I could not hear/get heard by
stations in South Africa nor Indonesia. I sometimes hear a few North
American stations early in the morning but even then they are very weak
most of the time.

I work on 40 and 80 meters at night and 20 meters during the day, mostly. I
could not hear anyone on 10 meters so far. It seems to be very quite in
this part of the world. Perhaps I just wonder around the wrong frequencies
or just at the wrong time. I cannot go in the air very often because of
work load during the week and because of XYL QRM at weekends but I try to
join contests whenever I can. It is great fun.

I am now looking forward to the European QSO Party. If we can manage the
contacts properly, an SSB version might start soon.

73!
BKA (TA2RX)

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 5149 is alive

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedsy]

Morning Jim,

From what I have read on the Reflector, there seems to be some disagreement 
as to whether the Heil HC5 (and HC4?) element can or cannot drive the K2 to 
full RF output!! Here I use the Heil Pro-Set Plus boom mike with HC4 and HC5 
elements directly driving my K2/100 #3255 without an external preamplifier. 
From day one I have had no difficulty in getting the 100w output, measured 
with a calibrated 50 ohm load and scope, on all bands - no shouting. 
Likewise the full specified output from the K2 alone. I have not 
incorporated any of the mods published since I built the K2, which means 
that the 'original' bandwidth of the KSB2's filter is in use, and I don't 
intend to change this. I swept the filter to choose the BFO frequency(s).


It could be that the components in my K2/100 are all at the 'right' value in 
their tolerance ranges for higher gain, but I doubt that -  although I was 
lucky with the 6 inductive resistors that affect the gain of the KPA100. The 
gain dip in mine was between bands, but it did not prevent the KPA100 from 
producing the 100w on all bands.


Hope that this helps.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD

P.S. I am not employed by Heil!


Jim Faulkner, K5ZED, wrote on Tuesday, November 22, 2005 at 05:54 AM


Good evening everyone,

This is my first post to the list, and I have what I hope is not a stupid
question.

I just finished my K2, #5149. With the exception of a missed solder joint
on the thermistor
board, and my brutalizing the tiny in-line choke on the bottom of the RF
board, the rig
came to life, and appears to be performing as expected. With just a crummy
hunk of wire,
that I literally threw on the living room floor, I am truly amazed at what
I can hear.

I have just finished building and installing the SSB mod, and I would like
to use my Heil BM-10,
with the HC5 element. Does anyone have any experience using this (or a
similar) set-up, and if so,
could you please share any details? I notice that the Heil set that
Elecraft sells requires a
resistor on connector P1, but I also see a reference to a Heil pre-amp in
the tech notes section
of the site.

Thanks in advance & 73,

Jim Faulkner  K5ZED
Rio Rancho, NM. 




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Re: [Elecraft] K2: DSP for CW ?

[Simon Brown (HB9DRV)]

Thanks to you and all who have replied. Due to Elecraft's modular design I 
could always buy this later - but for $219 I would probably buy at the same 
time.


[1] Does the DSP2 add significant extra current drain in RX? This is an 
important criteria as I'll be using batteries / solar cells and will have up 
to 6 AH of battery with me (2 x 3AH).

[2] Would the T1 be OK with the basic K2 (I assume so)?

Hope to have K1 finished late next week so K2 would be a Christmas / New 
Year project.


I will look for extra / larger batteries at Friedrichshafen 2006 but my 2 x 
Ni-MH 3 AH are very good and light. I would like to be able to use my IC-703 
portable but it requires up to 600 mA on receive.


Simon Brown
---
www.hb9drv.ch www.laax.ch

- Original Message - 
From: "Robert Tellefsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>




Hello Simon
I think the KDSP2 is beneficial under all conditions.
It provides three features, any one of which can be important
at a given moment.
The most obvious one is audio filtering, supplementing the
internal crystal filter.
The next obvious feature is Noise Reduction, not necessarily
a problem in the field, but it could be.
The final feature, not always recognized, is a small amount
of additional audio gain when DSP is engaged.  It is set
during the setup process, and can compensate for audio level
lost in narrower bandwidths.
I have my KDSP2 engaged when I'm out on our annual ARRL Field
Day every year.


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