Re: [Elecraft] Jumping K2

2005-11-25 Thread JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD
I had a problem similar in the past when transmitting at 12W  
I heard a sound like this one (very scarry) and lost power after on  
that band The problem was a bad solder on the toroïd associated  
to the band. After, no problem at all.


=
/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\   JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD
 V  A  2  V  Y  Z
\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/

FISTS #11896
Elecraft K2 #4130
Elecraft KX1 #999

http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard
=



Le 05-11-25 à 23:15, Ron D'Eau Claire a écrit :

I've not seen that symptom, but I'd be very suspicious of the  
resettable
fuse (F1) opening for some reason. Either it's gotten intermittent  
or you're
drawing enough current to exceed its "trip point" at, I believe, 3  
amps.


The K2 is resetting to a previous frequency because you haven't done
something to make it 'remember' the current settings yet. That'll  
happen any
time you pull power. The howl... I'm not sure about but what's  
causing it
might be what's causing the current overload on F1. First I'd check  
the

current draw as you approach 12 watts.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of  
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Friday, November 25, 2005 6:21 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Jumping K2


Hi all

My K2 # 4758 has gone strange.  All is well if power is set to less  
than
about 10 watts.  But lately, if power is set to 12 w or more, it  
shuts down
and emits a loud and nasty sounding "howl", which only lasts a  
moment.  It

promptly comes back on, but the frequency changes to a previously used
frequency.  This was not a one time happening, but can be  
duplicated.  It
seems to be so on all bands.  The only options I have is the KAF-2,  
(which I
love), and the noise blanker.  Other than this problem, all is  
fine, and I
am very pleased with my little sweetheart of a rig.  I can  
understand its
shutting down, but why is it changing frequency and barking at  
me??  In its
earlier days when it shut down, it did so quietly and returned to  
the same

frequency.

Any ideas??

Tnx and 73,
George, N4YM

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RE: [Elecraft] Jumping K2

2005-11-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I've not seen that symptom, but I'd be very suspicious of the resettable
fuse (F1) opening for some reason. Either it's gotten intermittent or you're
drawing enough current to exceed its "trip point" at, I believe, 3 amps. 

The K2 is resetting to a previous frequency because you haven't done
something to make it 'remember' the current settings yet. That'll happen any
time you pull power. The howl... I'm not sure about but what's causing it
might be what's causing the current overload on F1. First I'd check the
current draw as you approach 12 watts. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 25, 2005 6:21 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Jumping K2


Hi all
 
My K2 # 4758 has gone strange.  All is well if power is set to less than
about 10 watts.  But lately, if power is set to 12 w or more, it shuts down
and emits a loud and nasty sounding "howl", which only lasts a moment.  It
promptly comes back on, but the frequency changes to a previously used
frequency.  This was not a one time happening, but can be duplicated.  It
seems to be so on all bands.  The only options I have is the KAF-2, (which I
love), and the noise blanker.  Other than this problem, all is fine, and I
am very pleased with my little sweetheart of a rig.  I can understand its
shutting down, but why is it changing frequency and barking at me??  In its
earlier days when it shut down, it did so quietly and returned to the same
frequency.
 
Any ideas??
 
Tnx and 73,
George, N4YM

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[Elecraft] Jumping K2

2005-11-25 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi all
 
My K2 # 4758 has gone strange.  All is well if power is set to less than about 
10 watts.  But lately, if power is set to 12 w or more, it shuts down and emits 
a loud and nasty sounding "howl", which only lasts a moment.  It promptly comes 
back on, but the frequency changes to a previously used frequency.  This was 
not a one time happening, but can be duplicated.  It seems to be so on all 
bands.  The only options I have is the KAF-2, (which I love), and the noise 
blanker.  Other than this problem, all is fine, and I am very pleased with my 
little sweetheart of a rig.  I can understand its shutting down, but why is it 
changing frequency and barking at me??  In its earlier days when it shut down, 
it did so quietly and returned to the same frequency.
 
Any ideas??
 
Tnx and 73,
George, N4YM
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Twins software?Linux?

2005-11-25 Thread Terry W9TRB

Alexandru Csete wrote:

Hi Bill,

On 11/26/05, Bill Harris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Is there any logging and or control software out there for Linux OS?





73
Alex OZ9AEC

Hello Alex,

Try Marote in combination with Xlog.  Works great for me.

73,

Terry W9TRB

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Twins software?Linux?

2005-11-25 Thread Alexandru Csete
Hi Bill,

On 11/26/05, Bill Harris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Is there any logging and or control software out there for Linux OS?

I use Xlog http://pg4i.mattsnetwork.co.uk/linux/xlog.html for everyday
logging and
Tlf http://home.iae.nl/users/reinc/TLF-0.2.html for contest. Then,
there is also Klog http://jaime.robles.nu/klog/eindex.html but I don't
know much about that one. These logging programa can interface to your
radio using the Ham Radio Control Libraries http://hamlib.sf.net/
which supports most known and unknown computer controllable radios out
there. On the hamlib page you will find links to many other GUI
programs, which use hamlib.

If you are only interested in the K2, you should have a look at Marote
http://www.hamsoftware.org/

73
Alex OZ9AEC
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[Elecraft] Re: [NJQRP] WA3WSJ: Polar Bear Weather!

2005-11-25 Thread john

At 06:40 PM 11/25/2005, Edward R. Breneiser wrote:

Hello all!

This is great Polar Bear weather!
I'm trying a direct route up to Round Head
on the AT tomorrow Saturday, November 26th.
Look for me on 20m and 40m around 14.060
And 7.040mhz +- qrm.


Good luck, and seeing as this is CQ WWDX CW weekend,  you better pack your 
100 hz , 20 pole CW filter!


Stay warm!
John K5MO



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Twins software?Linux?

2005-11-25 Thread Bill Harris

Is there any logging and or control software out there for Linux OS?
Later
KXBill

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 on AAAs or Lithium Polymer?

2005-11-25 Thread Darrell Bellerive
A rechargeable battery system with a built in charger would have it's appeal 
especially if it can be charged from many different sources such as 110/120 
VAC 60Hz, 220/240 VAC 50 Hz, 12 or 24 volt automobile cigarette lighter 
sockets, solar power, etc. If Braun can do it with a razor, just think how 
much better Elecraft could design it.

While your updating the KX1 how about adding receive capability down to to 3.2 
Mhz. This would allow listening to the 60, 75, and 90 meter shortwave 
broadcast bands as well as the 80 and 60 meter amateur bands. :-)

Darrell
VA7TO

On November 25, 2005 09:41 am, wayne burdick wrote:
> We could (in theory) create a new bottom cover option for the KX1 that
> would include two 4-cell AAA holders or a LiPo battery, plus a charge
> controller that would run from the KX1's DC input jack. The battery
> holders and charge controller components could be soldered to a thin
> PCB module that runs the full length of the bottom cover. In the case
> of AAAs, we'd include a switch to select rechargeable or
> non-rechargeable batteries. You might be able to recharge while
> operating, although this would have to be tested, since some charge
> controller generate significant noise.
>
> Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were
> significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>


-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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[NJQRP] WA3WSJ: Polar Bear Weather!

2005-11-25 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all!

This is great Polar Bear weather!
I'm trying a direct route up to Round Head
on the AT tomorrow Saturday, November 26th.
Look for me on 20m and 40m around 14.060
And 7.040mhz +- qrm. I plan to hike up the mountain
in about an hour or so then setup, eat some lunch and operate
for an hour or two. This is the same spot where N7UN/2 and myself camped
at the other week. I found a direct way up to Round Head so
I can spend more time on the air. Look for me to start around noon.
This will be my birthday hike- I'll be 54 on 11/28! By the way, I think
I'll take Trevor Boy as it's his actual birthday! Trevor Boy will be
seven years old. Let's see that's about 42 years old, but you would
never know it as he acts like a pup! So listen for the Birthday Boys of
Round Head tomorrow on the AT here in PA.

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ



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[Elecraft] Re: K2 Twins software

2005-11-25 Thread Bob Evans
FWIW, I use two K2/100s in my SO2R contest station.  I use TRlog contest
software.  TRlog has a command called EXCHANGERADIOS that immediately swaps
the frequencies in the two rigs (i.e. frequency on rig A replaces freq on
rig B and vice-versa).  I find this useful if I'm tuning on one band while
CQing on the other and then decide to start CQing on the opposite band.
Even though I've got my station set up to have either rig as the "prime"
rig, I prefer my left rig as my run rig.  I've also used my two K2s to tune
on the same band as I'm CQing.  This requires a separate antenna as far away
from my transmitting antenna as possible.  I use an old vertical for same
band tuning.  It isn't the greatest antenna, but that is OK since I have the
ability to quickly swap frequencies with the EXCHANGERADIOS command.  I can
realistically get within 15 KHz of my transmitted signal without too much of
a problem copying stations.  My same band vertical is only 100 feet from my
transmitting quads because that is all the room I have.  I could never have
done this with my old IC-765s.  The K2s are THAT good at close in rejection!

 

There is also a SWAPRADIOS command that swaps the key, mic, headphones and
logged frequency to the other radio.  The swapping is controlled by a pin in
the parallel port changing state.  That pin can be use with Top-Ten Devices
DXDoubler, your own interface (as I use) or several other manufacturers SO2R
boxes.  The downside to TRlog for some people is that TRlog is a DOS program
and probably will never be ported over to Windows, but it handles all the
packet interfacing, rig interfacing and contest logging I will ever use.

 

Bob K5WA

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 on AAAs or Lithium Polymer?

2005-11-25 Thread Andrea Borgia
wayne burdick wrote:

> Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were
> significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year.

LiPo would be nice, for me: I am already using NiMH in the standard
cover and given my typical operating situation having 8 cells instead of
6 isn't worth the expense.

This assuming I manage to save something to buy it, of course ;-)

B73,
Andrea.

-- 
Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it /Amateur radio: IZ4FHT
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[Elecraft] KX1 on NiMH or LiPo

2005-11-25 Thread Bill Harris

"Iey"


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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 on NiMH or LiPo

2005-11-25 Thread Sanger, Joseph
I second that emotion.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Alan Fryer
Sent: Friday, November 25, 2005 12:55 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 on NiMH or LiPo

Wayne

I would certainly be interested in a scheme for NiMh AAAs or LiPo with
an
internal charge controller. That would really be a sweet addition to an
already fine rig.

Alan, N3BJ




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Re:[Elecraft] speaker

2005-11-25 Thread Paul Saville
Hello Stewart,

Can you recommend any DSP noise reduction program(s) that
are worth experimenting with?

73 Paul ZL3IN

Stewart G3RXQ wrote:
I changed my mono speaker jack for a stereo one, so that I
could get audio on 
both channels into my computer sound card line input when
running a DSP noise 
reduction program. Simple to do.


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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 on AAAs or Lithium Polymer?

2005-11-25 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.

Wayne,

I operate almost exclusively with 10 NiMH AA's and would like an 
alternate bottom that holds that, if it fits in your production plans.


I would also like an 8 cell holder for the Lithium cells.  I keep the 
Lithium primary cells in place but use them only for RX or for when I am 
using the HFPacker amp to keep from overdriving the amp.


I have Lithium Poly rechargeables I got on sale at Halted and might hook 
them up using the Batteryspace protection board, but the 11.1v is not 
atractive.  A 14.8v with a dropping diode might; I know Oliver KB6BA has 
been active in this area.


Leigh / WA5ZNU

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 9:40 am, wayne burdick wrote:
We've located a 4-AAA cell battery holder that would fit inside the KX1 
(one at each end of the bottom cover, as with the present AA holders). 
8 cells would provide 10 or 12 volts, giving you significantly more 
power output than 6 of the same cells (as much as 4 watts). The 
tradeoff would be in battery life. AAA-size NiMH, alkaline and lithium 
cells provide around 1000 to 1250 mA-hours, or around half as much as 
similar high-capacity AA cells.


Another option would be to use a small lithium polymer battery. 11 
volts at up to 1450 mA-hours or so might be possible, although these 
batteries are very expensive. AAAs might be preferable in a pinch 
because you can buy them anywhere. In the field, you can borrow 
triple-As from flashlights or other portable electronic devices. The 
difference in weight between 8 triple As and a LiPo battery is probably 
only couple of ounces, so weight is not likely to be the primary 
criteria.


You'd probably get five to eight hours of casual operation with NiMH, 
LiPo, or lithium cells, which are preferable to alkalines because of 
their flat discharge curve. Of course you could recharge NiMH or LiPo 
cells in the field with a small solar panel. (Has anyone tried using 8 
AAA cells with the KX1?)


We could (in theory) create a new bottom cover option for the KX1 that 
would include two 4-cell AAA holders or a LiPo battery, plus a charge 
controller that would run from the KX1's DC input jack. The battery 
holders and charge controller components could be soldered to a thin 
PCB module that runs the full length of the bottom cover. In the case 
of AAAs, we'd include a switch to select rechargeable or 
non-rechargeable batteries. You might be able to recharge while 
operating, although this would have to be tested, since some charge 
controller generate significant noise.


Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were 
significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

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[Elecraft] KX1 on NiMH or LiPo

2005-11-25 Thread Alan Fryer
Wayne

I would certainly be interested in a scheme for NiMh AAAs or LiPo with an
internal charge controller. That would really be a sweet addition to an
already fine rig.

Alan, N3BJ




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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 on AAAs or Lithium Polymer?

2005-11-25 Thread W0rw
i am still using NiCad's...in my KX1.
KX1 - 1/2AA NiCad Battery Modification...Rev. D.

Originally i had 6  'AA' NiCad batteries in the KX1 but i needed more power 
for pedestrian mobile operation.
i removed 4 of the 'AA' NiCad batteries and added 8 - 1/2'AA'-250's (short 
type AA) to boost the voltage to 14 VDC. That raises the output power to 3 
Watts.
The operating time is about 3 hours on a full charge (depending on your code 
speed and number of "Q's)..
These batteries are available from Batteries Plus. 
(After these batteries age, they will have slightly lower terminal voltage, 
then you can add 2 additional 1/2 AA batteries; i started with 8 and now i am 
using 10 - 1/2 AA-250's and one full sized AA NiCad, still keeping the voltage 
at or below the KX1 maximum of 14V. So be sure to buy a few extra 1/2 AA's).
The 1/2 AA's have flat contacts so they need to have a little solder blob 
added to the + terminal so they will touch each other when in series in the 
battery holder.
These 1/2 AA 'short' batteries (250 mAH) are 7/8 inch long. (There is a lon
ger 1/2 'AA'  battery that is 1.2 inches long but it won't fit the battery 
holder).
Note: These NiCad batteries weigh 4 oz and the Enegerizer L91's also weigh 4 
oz. The capacity of the Energizer L91 non-rechargeable battery is 2.9 AH (at 
1.0V discharge voltage) and the Rechargeable NiCad gives 0.25 AH, thats only 
about 9% of the L91 capacity, but it's still very practical.
Pictures of the NiCad batteries are on the HFPack2 Yahoogroup web site.

See: http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/hfpack2

You will have to log in to see the pictures..

Look in the 'Photos' area, Page 2, and in the 'W0RW-Paul' folder.
ps: If you make any modification to your KX1 it will void the warranty...
---
Here is a how you can charge the internal NiCad's without taking the KX1 
cover off.
(This is not suggested if you are going to use only the primary L91 Li 
batteries).

i installed a small 2.5 mm mono phone jack with a NC switch to the lower 
corner of the battery chassis. You have to drill hole in the chassis.
The jack goes right below the auxiliary DC connector J1.

Note: For the J1 power switching modification to work correctly this
jack must be isolated from the chassis. That requires a few mica or thin 
fiber washers and a small piece of tubing, or a flanged insulating washer.
This jack has a NC switch built into it so when you plug in the charging plug 
the internal NiCad batteries are disconnected from the radio and the charging 
voltage is applied to the batteries even if the radio is turned on.
The battery pack wiring connection changes are: black wire to the new 
charging jack ground pin, red wire to the jack center pin and the normally 
closed 
switch wire goes to the red wire of J5-1.

Now you can operate the KX1 from the auxiliary DC connector while 
simultaneously charging the internal NiCad batteries through the new charging 
jack.
 
You can also monitor the battery voltage through this connector or
when not charging the battery, The battery voltage can be displayed by 
pressing "RIT" and "Band" simultaneously, Twice.
The charger can be made from any wall transformer that puts out about 18VDC 
open circuit.
The charging current for the 1/2AA NiCad batteries should be set for 50 ma 
for 5  hours. You can add a switch to the charger and add an additional 
resistor 
to give 10ma for trickle charging. If you leave the KX1 NiCads on trickle 
charge it will always be ready to go.
You will need to insert an appropriate resistor in series with the 
transformer to limit the charging current. (If you change the number of 
batteries in the 
unit you will have to re-adjust the charging current).
-
Here is the  KX1 Battery Switching Modification:
The original power distribution design "AND's" the internal battery and 
external battery sources together using 2 diodes.
If your external battery voltage goes below the internal battery 
voltage, the internal batteries will start draining.
i left my KX1 on for a few days and after i ran down the external battery and 
the internal batteries took over and became discharged.
These were the expensive Lithium "AA" Primary batteries (L91's).
i wanted to save the use of these Li batteries for special uses
like Pedestrian Mobiling: See the w0rw/pm KX1 report on the Adventure Radio 
Society web site at:
http://www.arsqrp.com/ars/pages/back_issues/2004_text/0204_text/W0RW.html

Here are the details of the DC J1 switching Modification:
The Elecraft DC Power connector has an unused (normally closed) switch.
This modification will use that switch so that when an external power source 
is connected the internal batteries will be disconnected, and conversely when 
the DC power plug is removed the internal batteries will be reconnected.
Open the unit on an ESD grounded work station.
Separate the battery compartment by pulling the battery connector (J1) out.
Cut the 2 traces that ground P1-2 "-" (getting scary now)...Top Si

Re: [Elecraft] KX1 on AAAs or Lithium Polymer?

2005-11-25 Thread Simon Brown (HB9DRV)
Think about a portable battery pack which the sub-zero operator can keep in 
an inside pocket. This pack supports 8 or (better) 10 x AA Ni-MH. This gives 
us 2800 mAH @ 12v. The case should be rugged. You could add a battery status 
indicator - the Elecraft junkies would then have another kit they can buy 
(the BAT1 kit)!


Then of course there's solar inputs to run in parallel - would be very 
handy!


Simon Brown
---
www.hb9drv.ch www.laax.ch

- Original Message - 
From: "wayne burdick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were 
significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year.


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[Elecraft] KX1 on AAAs or Lithium Polymer?

2005-11-25 Thread wayne burdick
We've located a 4-AAA cell battery holder that would fit inside the KX1 
(one at each end of the bottom cover, as with the present AA holders). 
8 cells would provide 10 or 12 volts, giving you significantly more 
power output than 6 of the same cells (as much as 4 watts). The 
tradeoff would be in battery life. AAA-size NiMH, alkaline and lithium 
cells provide around 1000 to 1250 mA-hours, or around half as much as 
similar high-capacity AA cells.


Another option would be to use a small lithium polymer battery. 11 
volts at up to 1450 mA-hours or so might be possible, although these 
batteries are very expensive. AAAs might be preferable in a pinch 
because you can buy them anywhere. In the field, you can borrow 
triple-As from flashlights or other portable electronic devices. The 
difference in weight between 8 triple As and a LiPo battery is probably 
only couple of ounces, so weight is not likely to be the primary 
criteria.


You'd probably get five to eight hours of casual operation with NiMH, 
LiPo, or lithium cells, which are preferable to alkalines because of 
their flat discharge curve. Of course you could recharge NiMH or LiPo 
cells in the field with a small solar panel. (Has anyone tried using 8 
AAA cells with the KX1?)


We could (in theory) create a new bottom cover option for the KX1 that 
would include two 4-cell AAA holders or a LiPo battery, plus a charge 
controller that would run from the KX1's DC input jack. The battery 
holders and charge controller components could be soldered to a thin 
PCB module that runs the full length of the bottom cover. In the case 
of AAAs, we'd include a switch to select rechargeable or 
non-rechargeable batteries. You might be able to recharge while 
operating, although this would have to be tested, since some charge 
controller generate significant noise.


Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were 
significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Hex Key

2005-11-25 Thread Rick McGaver
Please contact me off site, direct

Rick  NK9G
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Elecraft] speaker

2005-11-25 Thread Stewart Baker
I changed my mono speaker jack for a stereo one, so that I could get audio on 
both channels into my computer sound card line input when running a DSP noise 
reduction program. Simple to do.

Stewart G3RXQ

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 08:08:54 -0800, Vic K2VCO wrote:
> n3drk wrote:
>
>> I connected an external speaker to the ext speaker jack on the back of the
>> k2. However only one speaker
>> has audio coming from it. I plugged the same ext speaker into the mark v
>> and the two speakers
>> have audio. These are stereo speakers. Should not the k2 have audio coming
>> from both speakers?
>>
> The external speaker jack on the back of the K2 is a mono jack.  So if
> the speakers you plug in have a stereo plug, only the speaker that
> connects to the tip will have audio.  You could replace the K2's jack
> with a stereo jack, but then plugging a mono plug into it would short
> the audio.  Best to get an adapter at Radio Shack.


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Re: [Elecraft] speaker

2005-11-25 Thread Vic K2VCO

n3drk wrote:

I connected an external speaker to the ext speaker jack on the back of the k2. 
However only one speaker
has audio coming from it. I plugged the same ext speaker into the mark v and 
the two speakers
have audio. These are stereo speakers. Should not the k2 have audio coming from 
both speakers?


The external speaker jack on the back of the K2 is a mono jack.  So if 
the speakers you plug in have a stereo plug, only the speaker that 
connects to the tip will have audio.  You could replace the K2's jack 
with a stereo jack, but then plugging a mono plug into it would short 
the audio.  Best to get an adapter at Radio Shack.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] speaker

2005-11-25 Thread John R. Lonigro

John:
The external speaker jack is mono.  When you plug a stereo plug into a 
mono jack, you only get sound on the speaker connected to the tip of the 
plug.  I guess you could either replace the mono jack with a stereo one 
or replace the stereo plug with a mono one.  Either way, you'd have an 
impedance mismatch.  If you are using amplified speakers, maybe it would 
work if you plugged them into the headphone jack, which is a stereo 
jack.  Some think the K2 audio output is marginal.  I can't imagine it 
getting better if you try to drive 2 non-amplified speakers instead of 1.


Good luck,
John AA0VE

n3drk wrote:


I connected an external speaker to the ext speaker jack on the back of the k2. 
However only one speaker
has audio coming from it. I plugged the same ext speaker into the mark v and 
the two speakers
have audio. These are stereo speakers. Should not the k2 have audio coming from 
both speakers?
john

 


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[Elecraft] speaker

2005-11-25 Thread n3drk
I connected an external speaker to the ext speaker jack on the back of the k2. 
However only one speaker
has audio coming from it. I plugged the same ext speaker into the mark v and 
the two speakers
have audio. These are stereo speakers. Should not the k2 have audio coming from 
both speakers?
john
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[Elecraft] SK

2005-11-25 Thread earl baillley
Hello Elecrafters, Sad to say I am no longer one of you. Medical reasons 
have caused me to completely remove myself from my love, CW, and my K2  was 
among the first equipment to go.


I enjoyed it and you. I have left the Hex key which I will offer for sale. 
Good key! The tower and antennas will start out by renting the use of a 
crane.


One last hurrah for the K2,  I lilked it best of all the CW rigs I have used 
in almost 70 years of Morse.


73, Earl W7TK 


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[Elecraft] Re: K2 IF Alignment question

2005-11-25 Thread Gerard Provoost


Hello Guy,

I had a similar experience, till I discovered that you have to turn the 
AGC off. Then you have a very sharp peek on your voltmeter or your audio 
when tuning L34. Worked fine for me!


Greetings,

Gerard, PA1GP

Original message:
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [Elecraft] K2 IF Alignment question

 Happy Turkey Day to all,

 Symptom:  In aligning the IF Amp on K2 #5091, I am not hearing any 
signal
 strength variation when adjusting L34 per the instructions on pg. 62. 
The
 weak signal near 7000 khz is relatively loud but moving the slug 
doesn't
 result in any variation that I can hear.  I can peak signals with L1 
and L2

 for the 40m bandpass alignment.  And actual band signals seem the same
 signal strength when compared to an ICom 746.  All resistance test 
readings

 and all other alignment tests are within range.

 Is there normally much signal variation when aligning the IF amp?  If 
so,

 please point me in a direction for troubleshooting.

 Thanks in advance,

 Guy N7UN/2


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