Re: [Elecraft] problem identifying capacitors

2006-02-20 Thread John R. Lonigro
Looking back on it, to me the biggest advantage of doing a complete 
inventory before starting construction was the problem of identifying 
capacitors. I remember how thankful I was that the resistors were packed 
in order and wanted the same convenience with the capacitors. I laid out 
several sheets of paper on a table, separated the capacitors into little 
piles on the paper, then marked down the value and quantity of each 
pile. Using the parts list as ground truth, if there was a discrepancy 
at that point, I knew either I did something wrong in sorting (always 
the case for me) or I was sent the wrong part or quantity (never the 
case for me). I'll admit this took some time, especially with my 
soldering station begging for attention, but once I started soldering, 
it was more like running an assembly line than solving a 1000 piece 
jigsaw puzzle.


At least it worked for me.

73's,

John AA0VE
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[Elecraft] fixed audio output on mic socket

2006-02-20 Thread David Douglass
Hi All,

I'm just playing about with my K2 and have performed the mod to get a fixed
audio out on pin 8 on the mic socket as per LA3ZA's instructions, using a
10k resistor between R3 and the mic socket.

This works fine, but the audio out isn't quite enough to drive my PC
soundcard to the level I would like. I have a small board here (as per Don's
W3FPR design) for the small audio amp, but would prefer if possible to get
the audio out of the mic socket without having to install this board.

My question is.would I be-able to get more audio out of pin 8 if I
change the value of the 10k resistor in LA3ZA's mod ??

Cheers All

David, VK2NU


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RE: [Elecraft] fixed audio output on mic socket

2006-02-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
David,

I would say the answer is 'maybe'.  And the reason for the uncertainly is
that it depends on what you are driving.The impedance of whatever you
connect to the far end of the resistor will determine how much current wil
be drawn and the voltage developed across it.

You can install the fixed audio board between the front panel and control
board if you lay the resistor and capacitors down flat on the board.  The
fixed audio board will provide up to about 3 volts to the soundcard, and
that is much more than enough to overdrive it.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I'm just playing about with my K2 and have performed the mod to
 get a fixed
 audio out on pin 8 on the mic socket as per LA3ZA's instructions, using a
 10k resistor between R3 and the mic socket.

 This works fine, but the audio out isn't quite enough to drive my PC
 soundcard to the level I would like. I have a small board here
 (as per Don's
 W3FPR design) for the small audio amp, but would prefer if possible to get
 the audio out of the mic socket without having to install this board.

 My question is.would I be-able to get more audio out of pin 8 if I
 change the value of the 10k resistor in LA3ZA's mod ??

 Cheers All

 David, VK2NU


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RE: [Elecraft] Heil Handi Mic Configuration Question

2006-02-20 Thread Ed Findley
I am using the same mike with the kenwood cable on my K-2.  Since it is
basically the same Heil mike that was made for the K2 but is no longer
available- I used the settings (jumpers) as described for the Elecraft MH-2
in the manual for the KSB2.  To include the 5.6 K resistor from pin 1 to pin
6.  Works well.  Do not use the Kenwood jumper settings.

Ed Findley N5LDY
K2 #1073 FP #1233
SKCC #868


I am finishing up K2 #5113 and have run into a snag configuring the
microphone on the K2SB2.  I am using a Heil Handi Mic HM-IC.  

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Re: [Elecraft] problem identifying capacitors

2006-02-20 Thread K3yt
Hi John,
 
You obviously don't have any CATS.
 
Mine would think that was their own personal Disney 
World.
 
I did not pre-sort my caps, but did inventory them
and then put them back into a feline-proof
container.
 
K2 5150 went together without a problem.
 
73 de Bob K3YT 
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[Elecraft] K1 40/20 Never Assembled -- FS--!!

2006-02-20 Thread Pete Zawasky

Hi folks,

My friend Dennis, W4USR asked me to post his K1 kit.

K1 40/20mtr  s/n 95 Purchased from Elecraft some time ago but never 
assembled.


Please contact him directly.  [EMAIL PROTECTED]


PeteAG7C
K2  s/n 4847

Pete Zawasky
PZEF Co.
www.pzef.net
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
252-249-3393  voice/fax
252-670-6940  cell




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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna query

2006-02-20 Thread Joe, aa4nn

Hi Ralph,

Get 100 ft of 450ohm ladder line.
Cut off 34 ft for the feedline.
On the 66 ft piece, solder the end wires together.  Attach insulators.
Cut one side of the 66 ft piece in the center and solder the feedline in there.
On the 66 ft piece, opposite the feedline connection, cut out 4 inches of the 
wire on that side.
What you have now is a folded dipole.
Make something like the Acro-Bat antenna hanger from Ten-Tec to support the 
center.
Connect the 450 ohm ladderline to the Elecraft BL1 4:1 150W balun.
Connect a short, 3 ft coax jumper from BL1 balun to the rig. 
Easily tunes 80-10.  

Also very effective is a single wire dipole, 33 ft on a side, 
fed with 300ohm tv lead via Elecraft BL1 4:1 150w balun.  

Good luck,
73 de Joe, aa4nn

Gents,
I have a KX1 which I want to take with me on a trip to Phoenix, AZ in early
March.  I wonder if there is anyone out there that has tried the portable
wire antenna as suggested in the KX1 material but used a feedline of some
sort with it.  I'd like to get the antenna a bit away from the operating
position and wonder if coaxial cable, ladder line, or TV feedline might
work
Needless to say I'd still need/use the ATU in the KX1. 
Anyone has any thoughts? 
Thanks.
Ralph, VE7OM

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RE: [Elecraft] fixed audio output on mic socket

2006-02-20 Thread Sverre Holm
 
 My question is.would I be-able to get more audio out of 
 pin 8 if I change the value of the 10k resistor in LA3ZA's mod ??
 

As W3FPR said, maybe, but in any case not by very much, and probably not by
enough to really make a difference.

You could fit the audio amplifier board on the outside of the rig and bring
out 5 or 8 Volts through the mic connector if you don't want to use an
external power supply.


73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/
 

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[Elecraft] KPA100 Power Output Problem

2006-02-20 Thread John Grimm


  K2  #4842  has  been fb for over a year, and I've been working between
  baby  diaper  changes to complete my KPA100.  Everything has proceeded
  smoothly through the bias current adjust, but having problems with the
  transmit  tests.   All proceeds okay to about 20 watts.  With K2 power
  control  set  to  50W output,  I hit TUNE and power output reads 20-25
  watts on  both  K2  and  external meter.  While TUNING, I increase the
  power  control pot clockwise, and power quickly jumps up to the higher
  (50W) output  level.  Toggle  TUNE  off  then back on again, and power
  again  drops  to  20-25 watts until I tweak/increase the power control
  pot and power out then jumps to a level 50W.  Toggle again, output is
  back  to 20-25 watts out until I tweak/increase the power control pot,
  and  power  then  again jumps  up  to  an  even higher  level.  Toggle
  TUNE off again and back on, and power out is back to 20-25 watts until
  I  move  the  power  control  pot,  etc. etc..  With the power control
  pot full clockwise the unit is putting out a full ~110W.  I re-did R26
  alignment and  all  seems okay.  Checked  the common reflector section
  and  didn't  see  anything  similar to this, so I'm hoping to get some
  investigation suggestions from any willing higher powers.

  Thank you in advance.

  John / K0YQ
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Power Output Problem

2006-02-20 Thread Dan Barker
RTFM.

The TUNE button puts out 20W.
The Key (or PTT) puts out the requested power.
Moving requested power with key down just confuses the issue.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456


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[Elecraft] How to use the KX1/PM

2006-02-20 Thread W0rw
How to operate Pedestrian Mobile with the KX1...
The KX1 is a great portable rig but it is also a great pedestrian mobile rig.
You can go to new heights, evade local power line noises and find hot spots 
near
flag poles and in baseball diamonds.
Here is how to do it...
Step by Step, (peripatetically speaking).
Step #
1. Get your KX1 on the air from your base and learn how to use all the 
controls.
You are going to have to increase the LED display brightness as soon as you 
get out in the sun. (Hit MENU, rotate Dial to 'Led', Push MENU for 1 second, 
Push RIT to raise LED brightness to 6). It is a good idea to cary a small 
instruction cheat sheet with you. If you see P=0 on your display you won't be 
having 
many QSO's.

2. Get a Banana jack to BNC converter for the KX1 antenna connector.

3. Get a 2 foot paint stirring stick (free from Home D.)

4. Attach an 8 foot whip (or longer) to the stick with duct tape.

5. Attach a 3 foot piece of insulated wire from the base of the whip to the 
KX1 hot banana jack (do not use ANY coax for this run).

6. Attach a 13 foot piece of insulated wire to the black terminal of the 
banana jack,
(this is your counterpoise or drag wire).

7. Put the paint stir stick in your back pocket (low 'Z' part of your body).
Attach the whip to the upper part of your body by using a short strap around 
your neck and arm to hold the upper part of the whip.
(You could use one of your old shoulder holsters).
i am in cold country so i almost always just use my North Face down vest.
The whip goes through the arm hole in the vest and rests in my rear pocket.

8. Turn the KX1 on, install ear buds, walk 15 feet into a clear space 
(letting the drag wire layout behind you), Set the KX1 for 14060+/- (or your 
favorite 
tune up frequency), Push the TUNE buttons.
You should get 3W and 1.5 SWR.
Start walking...Call CQ xxx/pm
i have CQ CQ de w0rw/pm in memory so i don't have to do anything but hit 
'PLY 1'.

9. You can lessen your antenna directivity loss by walking away from the 
station you are  communicating with. The single drag wire makes the whip 
directional. You can get a 3 dB boost from your local flag pole or street light 
by 
using it as a reflector.

10. Operation on 30 and 40 meters will be greatly aided by adding a top hat 
to the whip. i use 4 of those little underground utilities flag markers (also 
available at Home D.) You can see my top hat in the 'photos' section of the 
HFPack2 Yahoogroup
in the folder 'w0rw'. Watch out for those top hat eating trees.

11. i hold the KX1 in my left hand with my left thumb near the paddle and 
send with my right hand. i added an additional rubber foot under the L in 
Elecraft for a finger grip.

12. i carry an external battery pack in my pocket for long hikes.

13. i have a small log that attaches to my cuff, like an NFL Quarterback.

14. Make sure the 2 bottom case screws are tight and keep the paddle thumb 
screw tight. If they get loose add lock washers.

Hope to see you on the trail
You can see a picture of my KX1/pm on the Adventure Radio Society web site at
http://www.arsqrp.com/ars/pages/back_issues/2005_text/1205_text/W0RW.html
or read about my KX1 pedestrian mobile contact with Latvia at
http://www.eham.net/articles/9262

Paul  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Power Output Problem

2006-02-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

Your KPA100 is working as it should!
TUNE will transmit at 20 watts - it was designed that way.
If you want to use TUNE at the setting of the Power knob, press TUNE and
DISPLAY together, or press TUNE and rotate the POWER control to the setting
you want (you are already doing that).

You should see full power output by pressing the key.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-


K2  #4842  has  been fb for over a year, and I've been working between
baby  diaper  changes to complete my KPA100.  Everything has proceeded
smoothly through the bias current adjust, but having problems with the
transmit  tests.   All proceeds okay to about 20 watts.  With K2 power
control  set  to  50W output,  I hit TUNE and power output reads 20-25
watts on  both  K2  and  external meter.  While TUNING, I increase the
power  control pot clockwise, and power quickly jumps up to the higher
(50W) output  level.  Toggle  TUNE  off  then back on again, and power
again  drops  to  20-25 watts until I tweak/increase the power control
pot and power out then jumps to a level 50W.  Toggle again, output is
back  to 20-25 watts out until I tweak/increase the power control pot,
and  power  then  again jumps  up  to  an  even higher  level.  Toggle
TUNE off again and back on, and power out is back to 20-25 watts until
I  move  the  power  control  pot,  etc. etc..  With the power control
pot full clockwise the unit is putting out a full ~110W.  I re-did R26
alignment and  all  seems okay.  Checked  the common reflector section
and  didn't  see  anything  similar to this, so I'm hoping to get some
investigation suggestions from any willing higher powers.

Thank you in advance.

John / K0YQ


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RE: [Elecraft] How to use the KX1/PM

2006-02-20 Thread Jim Sheldon
You forgot to mention to watch out for following pedestrians.  They tend to
step on the drag wire and this gets interesting when it comes up short.
Tends to yank the KX1 out of your hand, or in my case, bust the BNC to
binding post adapter off.  Also taught me to buy a Pomona BNC to BP adapter.
They are much more rugged than the cheap Chinese ones hi.

Jim - W0EB

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 12:53 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] How to use the KX1/PM
 
 
 How to operate Pedestrian Mobile with the KX1...
 The KX1 is a great portable rig but it is also a great 
 pedestrian mobile rig. You can go to new heights, evade local 
 power line noises and find hot spots 
 near
 flag poles and in baseball diamonds.
 Here is how to do it...
 Step by Step, (peripatetically speaking).
 Step #
 1. Get your KX1 on the air from your base and learn how to 
 use all the 
 controls.
 You are going to have to increase the LED display brightness 
 as soon as you 
 get out in the sun. (Hit MENU, rotate Dial to 'Led', Push 
 MENU for 1 second, 
 Push RIT to raise LED brightness to 6). It is a good idea to 
 cary a small 
 instruction cheat sheet with you. If you see P=0 on your 
 display you won't be having 
 many QSO's.
 
 2. Get a Banana jack to BNC converter for the KX1 antenna connector.
 
 3. Get a 2 foot paint stirring stick (free from Home D.)
 
 4. Attach an 8 foot whip (or longer) to the stick with duct tape.
 
 5. Attach a 3 foot piece of insulated wire from the base of 
 the whip to the 
 KX1 hot banana jack (do not use ANY coax for this run).
 
 6. Attach a 13 foot piece of insulated wire to the black 
 terminal of the 
 banana jack,
 (this is your counterpoise or drag wire).
 
 7. Put the paint stir stick in your back pocket (low 'Z' part 
 of your body). Attach the whip to the upper part of your body 
 by using a short strap around 
 your neck and arm to hold the upper part of the whip.
 (You could use one of your old shoulder holsters).
 i am in cold country so i almost always just use my North 
 Face down vest. The whip goes through the arm hole in the 
 vest and rests in my rear pocket.
 
 8. Turn the KX1 on, install ear buds, walk 15 feet into a clear space 
 (letting the drag wire layout behind you), Set the KX1 for 
 14060+/- (or your favorite 
 tune up frequency), Push the TUNE buttons.
 You should get 3W and 1.5 SWR.
 Start walking...Call CQ xxx/pm
 i have CQ CQ de w0rw/pm in memory so i don't have to do 
 anything but hit 
 'PLY 1'.
 
 9. You can lessen your antenna directivity loss by walking 
 away from the 
 station you are  communicating with. The single drag wire 
 makes the whip 
 directional. You can get a 3 dB boost from your local flag 
 pole or street light by 
 using it as a reflector.
 
 10. Operation on 30 and 40 meters will be greatly aided by 
 adding a top hat 
 to the whip. i use 4 of those little underground utilities 
 flag markers (also 
 available at Home D.) You can see my top hat in the 'photos' 
 section of the 
 HFPack2 Yahoogroup
 in the folder 'w0rw'. Watch out for those top hat eating trees.
 
 11. i hold the KX1 in my left hand with my left thumb near 
 the paddle and 
 send with my right hand. i added an additional rubber foot 
 under the L in 
 Elecraft for a finger grip.
 
 12. i carry an external battery pack in my pocket for long hikes.
 
 13. i have a small log that attaches to my cuff, like an NFL 
 Quarterback.
 
 14. Make sure the 2 bottom case screws are tight and keep the 
 paddle thumb 
 screw tight. If they get loose add lock washers.
 
 Hope to see you on the trail
 You can see a picture of my KX1/pm on the Adventure Radio 
 Society web site at 
 http://www.arsqrp.com/ars/pages/back_issues/2005_text/1205_tex
t/W0RW.html
or read about my KX1 pedestrian mobile contact with Latvia at
http://www.eham.net/articles/9262

Paul  [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Power Output Problem

2006-02-20 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Be aware too that the automatic power control circuit is not enabled in TUNE
mode. That is so the K2 won't try to adjust the output power automatically
while an Antenna Tuner is being adjusted, either automatically or manually. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 11:01 AM
To: John Grimm; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Power Output Problem


John,

Your KPA100 is working as it should!
TUNE will transmit at 20 watts - it was designed that way.
If you want to use TUNE at the setting of the Power knob, press TUNE and
DISPLAY together, or press TUNE and rotate the POWER control to the setting
you want (you are already doing that).

You should see full power output by pressing the key.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-


K2  #4842  has  been fb for over a year, and I've been working between
baby  diaper  changes to complete my KPA100.  Everything has proceeded
smoothly through the bias current adjust, but having problems with the
transmit  tests.   All proceeds okay to about 20 watts.  With K2 power
control  set  to  50W output,  I hit TUNE and power output reads 20-25
watts on  both  K2  and  external meter.  While TUNING, I increase the
power  control pot clockwise, and power quickly jumps up to the higher
(50W) output  level.  Toggle  TUNE  off  then back on again, and power
again  drops  to  20-25 watts until I tweak/increase the power control
pot and power out then jumps to a level 50W.  Toggle again, output is
back  to 20-25 watts out until I tweak/increase the power control pot,
and  power  then  again jumps  up  to  an  even higher  level.  Toggle
TUNE off again and back on, and power out is back to 20-25 watts until
I  move  the  power  control  pot,  etc. etc..  With the power control
pot full clockwise the unit is putting out a full ~110W.  I re-did R26
alignment and  all  seems okay.  Checked  the common reflector section
and  didn't  see  anything  similar to this, so I'm hoping to get some
investigation suggestions from any willing higher powers.

Thank you in advance.

John / K0YQ


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[Elecraft] Mic Configuration Question Part II

2006-02-20 Thread Gottlieb, Jonathan
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.  I have confirmed that the mic
is wired as per the MH2, including the resistor between pins 16.  I
have done all of the KSB2 alignments as far I can.  I still get a 10
watt carrier when I push the PTT in LSB and USB.  In CW when I push the
PTT,  I am getting 2 watts as per the setting.  Interestingly, when I am
getting the carrier of 10 watts (as measured on a Waters dummy
load/watt meter), the K2 display does not show that I am transmitting.
With the mic connected but using Tune, I am getting proper output and K2
display reading. Same with the mic not connected.   Something is very
not right here.  Any thoughts?
 
Jonathan Gottlieb
WA3WDK









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[Elecraft] KSB2 Observations and Questions

2006-02-20 Thread Dean Fewkes
I just built and installed the KSB2 for my KS SN5319. I used the capacitors 
for 2.6 MHZ bandwidth and the transmit audio sounds excellent and full 
bodied as tested on my Mark V. I did notice on the receive audio that there 
is some roll off below 450 HTZ regardless of where the filter/BFO is set. 
The roll off is gradual until it gets to the filter edge so I am not too 
concerned about this for communications purposes, but it does take away from 
the ability to get that full bodied sound on receive that I get on my Mark 
V. I suspect that this roll-off must be in the audio circuit and I wonder if 
anybody else has ideas on this.


The other thing is that the compressor does not seem to work. There is no 
detectable difference between 1:1, 2:1, 3:1 or 4:1 settings. The transmitted 
signal sounds really good otherwise. I am using a standard Yaesu MH-31 
dynamic mic that is known to work good on other radios.


Thanks for your help and ideas!

Dean

KG7MZ 


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[Elecraft] folded dipole antenna

2006-02-20 Thread Frederick Dwight
Joe,
Sounds like you have a winner for an antenna.  However the antenna you 
describe is NOT a folded dipole.  It would be a folded dipole if you did not 
cut out the section of open wire line opposite your feedline connection.  
Without the section cut out your antenna would be resonant on 40 meters and 
would be a great performer on 40 meters, but I have no idea how it would work 
on other bands.  Your antenna  is a LINEAR LOADED DIPOLE which will be resonant 
around 5 or 6 MHZ.  It should load well on 40 and 80 for sure since it will be 
resonant around 5 to 6 MHZ.  The losses on linear loaded antennas can be very 
small, so on 80 meters I suspect it will perform nearly as well as a full size 
dipole, perhaps within a db or so.  If you could reach the center of the dipole 
and jumper the cut out section, possibly, but not for sure, you might have 
slightly better performance on 40 meters operating in the folded dipole mode.  
You could set up a field strength meter with a horizontal antenna several 
hundred feet away and do comparison readings...the Z would be very 
different so you would need to re tune.
   Some limited space folks take your good idea one step further and make a 3 
wire (or more) linear loaded antenna element.  Your dipole might only be around 
50 feet in length if made with 3 wires.  However, there is no such thing as a 
free lunch.  Shorter antennas have less gain.  My personal rule of thumb is 
that a well designed antenna can be shortened up to APPROXIMATELY 50% with only 
minor loss of gain, but further shortening usually results in rapidly 
decreasing performance.  Shorter antennas do suffer from greatly decreased 
bandwidth, however if you you use a tuner that should not be a significant 
factor.
I know many ELECRAFTERS will take exception to my 50% rule of thumb, 
however non technical folks might find it a useful tool.  At least be VERY 
suspicious of very short antennas that claim great results. Likewise antennas 
that are AT LEAST half size MIGHT come close in performance to a full size 
antenna.  The 25 ft wire most of use on our KX1's with fantastic results is a 
short antenna on 40 meters, but still is very acceptable compromize since it is 
about 75% the size of a full lenght quarter wave antenna and also is an easy 
match for the tuner.  I believe my 50% rule is OK for most simple antennas.  A 
yagi would need to be much larger than 50% size for acceptable performance.
I find it is very interesting to model antennas with an antenna modeling 
program.  Many hams use either the EZNEC or Nittany Scientific NEC-Win Plus+  
programs.
Either of these NEC 2 core programs do a very acceptable job of modeling most, 
but not all, of the antennas hams typically use.  ARRL offers an Antenna 
Modeling on line course, or you can buy the ARRL course textbook and work 
through it yourself.  You do not need to be an engineer or scientist to use 
these courses, however you should have a good grasp of algebra and perhaps trig 
and AT LEAST 100 hours of time to complete the course.  
RickKL7CW Palmer, Alaska
 KX1 # 798 
  
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[Elecraft] Arizona K2 builders

2006-02-20 Thread Johnne Ables
Hi,

I am getting back on the air after 30 years QRT.  I'm
trying to find someone to assist/teach me to build a
K2.  I would be glad to pay you your normal going rate
for your time, knowledge and experience.

Thanks,

Johnne

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[Elecraft] Isolating the KPA100 External Keying Line

2006-02-20 Thread Roy Morris
When keying my Alpha 99 via a shielded cable from the KPA100 J7 jack, there is 
a small amount of stray RF getting into the SSB signal.  This RF is not present 
when the amp is used with either my 756 PRO2 or 706MK2G, and it is not present 
when using the K2 at 100 watts barefooted regardless of band or mode.  The PA 
keying lines for the Icom rigs use external reed relays which isolate the 
keying lines from the amp.  The Icom rigs produce a transmit voltage to 
activate the reed relays.  The stray RF might be eliminated from the K2 if an 
external reed relay could be used in the keying line.  I do not see a transmit 
voltage available to accomplish this.  Any thoughts on how to isolate the 
keying line would be appreciated.  Thanks.  Roy Morris  W4WFB  No virus found in this outgoing message.
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RE: [Elecraft] Mic Configuration Question Part II

2006-02-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jonathan,

As I indicated yesterday, I tend to believe that the wiring on your mic
cable may not be what you think it is.

Look at the end of the mic plug for the pin numbers - then check continuity
between pins 2 and 7 (or 2 and 8) with the PTT open, and then with it
closed.  You should see an open circuit with the PTT not operated and zero
ohms with the PTT depressed.  If you do not see that indication, for
certain, the mic cable is not wired for Elecraft (or Kenwood).

I can't help as readily on the AF connections because there is no
open/closed circuit to measure, so the way I would do it is to open the mic
body physically somewhere that will give you access to the connections to
the mic element - then measure the connection to the mic plug pin - if it
ends up on pin 1 that is correct for the Elecraft or kenwood configuration.
Sorry, but I don't know of an easier way to verify the mic cable wiring.

One thing that you may want to try is to put the K2 in SSB mode with no mic
connected and close the dot paddle - that is the same thing as pressing the
PTT switch - if you get 10 watts out, you have some problem in the K2 and
not in the mic, but if you find no output (since you have no audio), the K2
is good and you should continue looking for the problem in the mic and its
connections.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.  I have confirmed that the mic
 is wired as per the MH2, including the resistor between pins 16.  I
 have done all of the KSB2 alignments as far I can.  I still get a 10
 watt carrier when I push the PTT in LSB and USB.  In CW when I push the
 PTT,  I am getting 2 watts as per the setting.  Interestingly, when I am
 getting the carrier of 10 watts (as measured on a Waters dummy
 load/watt meter), the K2 display does not show that I am transmitting.
 With the mic connected but using Tune, I am getting proper output and K2
 display reading. Same with the mic not connected.   Something is very
 not right here.  Any thoughts?

 Jonathan Gottlieb
 WA3WDK


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[Elecraft] missing trimmer

2006-02-20 Thread Dr. Werner Furlan
all the capacitors are soldered now ;-)

but there is a new problem. I am missing one of the 30pF trimmer 
capacitors. There are 2 red marked 50 pF but only 3 of the 30pF. I checked 
all boxes and bags for a lost one, but did not find any :-(
How can I get a replacement?

73! de Werner OE9FWV

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Santa.


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Elecraft K2 #5203

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[Elecraft] New in the list and KX1 question

2006-02-20 Thread Uli DF5SF

Hello,
my name is Uli and for about 30 years active in QRP. Most time in 
CW, but in the last years also in digital modes.
My equipmennt is a modified TS50 (5W out), a PSK20 and a Sparrow 
(www.qrpproject.de) with 5W on 20m. My antenna is a magnetic loop 
for 30m - 10m from MFJ.

Now my question to KX1:
When is delivery date of the new firmware and the 80/30m module ?
And does anyone know about the price ?
I cannot find anything on the homepage.

72/73
Uli
DF5SF

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Re: [Elecraft] Isolating the KPA100 External Keying Line

2006-02-20 Thread Vic K2VCO

Roy Morris wrote:

When keying my Alpha 99 via a shielded cable from the KPA100 J7 jack,
there is a small amount of stray RF getting into the SSB signal.
This RF is not present when the amp is used with either my 756 PRO2
or 706MK2G, and it is not present when using the K2 at 100 watts
barefooted regardless of band or mode.  


How do you know it's RF?  Maybe it's the magnetic field from the big 
transformer in the 99?  K6SE claimed that he could hear hum modulation 
on my signal when I operated my (unmodified) K2 3-1/2 feet away from an 
Alpha 86.


You might try temporarily moving the amp farther away from the K2 or 
getting the VCO magnetic shield mod from Elecraft.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Buzzy K2 speaker

2006-02-20 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
My K2 had a very irritating buzz (sympathetic vibration) at about 400 hz.  I 
noticed if I pressed on the top cover, it quit.  No amount of adjusting the 
four speaker mounting screws worked.  That ruled out the speaker itself, I 
reckoned.  So, I took the top off, turned it upside down and put pieces of Q 
Pad around the speaker, covering most of the vacant area.   Hot dog!   Buzz 
went away.  
 
Q Pads are +/- 3/32 inch thick fibrous pads with one sticky side, are used in 
cars to quieten vibrating panels and can be found at professional auto paint 
stores.  Used 'em on my old Ford diesel and quietened it down.  CAVEAT:  Since 
the pads are kinda heavy, and are hanging from the top panel, I can't vouch for 
how long they will stay stuck.  They did stay stuck to the bottom of my old 
diesel's oil pan for years and may still be there.  I traded the truck.   
However, they work so well if they drop down, I will figure some way to hold em 
up.  My ohmmeter says they are nonconductive.  The pads come in packs of 
several roughly 10 sq pads.  Maybe a friendly hot rod shop would sell just 
one, which is more than enough area.
 
Another idea is to affix 1/8 in thick aluminum pieces with contact cement.
 
73 from N4YM, George  
 
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RE: [Elecraft] Isolating the KPA100 External Keying Line

2006-02-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
Roy,

If you want to try a relay isolated keying line, connect one side of the
relay coil to the K2 amp keying jack and the other side of the coil to a
power source that matches the relay voltage - of course, the power source
common must connet to the KPA100 chassis if that was not obvious.

I fail to understand how an external keying line would couple RF Back into
the K2, especially with the amp chassis and the K2 chassis tied together
(the shield of the coax connector ties them together), but it is worth a
quick experiment to find out if it cures your condition.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 When keying my Alpha 99 via a shielded cable from the KPA100 J7
 jack, there is a small amount of stray RF getting into the SSB
 signal.  This RF is not present when the amp is used with either
 my 756 PRO2 or 706MK2G, and it is not present when using the K2
 at 100 watts barefooted regardless of band or mode.  The PA
 keying lines for the Icom rigs use external reed relays which
 isolate the keying lines from the amp.  The Icom rigs produce a
 transmit voltage to activate the reed relays.  The stray RF might
 be eliminated from the K2 if an external reed relay could be used
 in the keying line.  I do not see a transmit voltage available to
 accomplish this.  Any thoughts on how to isolate the keying line
 would be appreciated.  Thanks.  Roy Morris  W4WFB

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Re: [Elecraft] Isolating the KPA100 External Keying Line

2006-02-20 Thread Tom Hammond

Ummm... Vic...

Might be easier (esp. on the back) to move the K2 instead!  Heheh

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 04:26 PM 2/20/2006, Vic K2VCO wrote:

Roy Morris wrote:

When keying my Alpha 99 via a shielded cable from the KPA100 J7 jack,
there is a small amount of stray RF getting into the SSB signal.
This RF is not present when the amp is used with either my 756 PRO2
or 706MK2G, and it is not present when using the K2 at 100 watts
barefooted regardless of band or mode.


How do you know it's RF?  Maybe it's the magnetic field from the big 
transformer in the 99?  K6SE claimed that he could hear hum 
modulation on my signal when I operated my (unmodified) K2 3-1/2 
feet away from an Alpha 86.


You might try temporarily moving the amp farther away from the K2 or 
getting the VCO magnetic shield mod from Elecraft.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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RE: [Elecraft] folded dipole antenna

2006-02-20 Thread Robert Tellefsen
I'd like to tailgate Rick's comment.
I use a 60 ft dipole made of 450 ohm window line with the conductors
shorted together at each side of the feed point and at the outer ends.
The idea is to create a fat dipole, compared to a single wire.

I feed it with 450 ohm window line and a matching network in the shack
for the bands I use it with.  On 20m, it acts as nearly two half waves
in phase, very good on 20m.  It tunes well on 40m as you would expect.
On 80m, the 2:1 swr bandwidth is only 100 kHz, but adequate for my
contesting activities.

I modelled the antenna with EZNEC, and just the plain dipole with tuned
feeders has more gain (less loss ?) than the same dipole with loading
coils to give a resonant feed on one band.  Plus, with the tuned feeders,
it is a three band antenna.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Frederick Dwight
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 11:55 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] folded dipole antenna


Joe,
Sounds like you have a winner for an antenna.  However the antenna you
describe is NOT a folded dipole.  It would be a folded dipole if you did not
cut out the section of open wire line opposite your feedline connection.
Without the section cut out your antenna would be resonant on 40 meters and
would be a great performer on 40 meters, but I have no idea how it would
work on other bands.  Your antenna  is a LINEAR LOADED DIPOLE which will be
resonant around 5 or 6 MHZ.  It should load well on 40 and 80 for sure since
it will be resonant around 5 to 6 MHZ.  The losses on linear loaded antennas
can be very small, so on 80 meters I suspect it will perform nearly as well
as a full size dipole, perhaps within a db or so.  If you could reach the
center of the dipole and jumper the cut out section, possibly, but not for
sure, you might have slightly better performance on 40 meters operating in
the folded dipole mode.  You could set up a field strength meter with a
horizontal antenna several hundred feet away and do comparison
readings...the Z would be very different so you would need to re tune.
   Some limited space folks take your good idea one step further and make
a 3 wire (or more) linear loaded antenna element.  Your dipole might only be
around 50 feet in length if made with 3 wires.  However, there is no such
thing as a free lunch.  Shorter antennas have less gain.  My personal rule
of thumb is that a well designed antenna can be shortened up to
APPROXIMATELY 50% with only minor loss of gain, but further shortening
usually results in rapidly decreasing performance.  Shorter antennas do
suffer from greatly decreased bandwidth, however if you you use a tuner that
should not be a significant factor.
I know many ELECRAFTERS will take exception to my 50% rule of thumb,
however non technical folks might find it a useful tool.  At least be VERY
suspicious of very short antennas that claim great results. Likewise
antennas that are AT LEAST half size MIGHT come close in performance to a
full size antenna.  The 25 ft wire most of use on our KX1's with fantastic
results is a short antenna on 40 meters, but still is very acceptable
compromize since it is about 75% the size of a full lenght quarter wave
antenna and also is an easy match for the tuner.  I believe my 50% rule is
OK for most simple antennas.  A yagi would need to be much larger than 50%
size for acceptable performance.
I find it is very interesting to model antennas with an antenna modeling
program.  Many hams use either the EZNEC or Nittany Scientific NEC-Win Plus+
programs.
Either of these NEC 2 core programs do a very acceptable job of modeling
most, but not all, of the antennas hams typically use.  ARRL offers an
Antenna Modeling on line course, or you can buy the ARRL course textbook and
work through it yourself.  You do not need to be an engineer or scientist to
use these courses, however you should have a good grasp of algebra and
perhaps trig and AT LEAST 100 hours of time to complete the course.
RickKL7CW Palmer, Alaska
KX1 # 798

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Re: [Elecraft] Portable operation of KX1

2006-02-20 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
For operation in a public park, I carry a Radio Shack 9 volt mono 
amplified speaker (about $13) and a short audio cable.  Curious people 
ask to hear what I'm listening to, and sharing the earphones is 
unpleasant.


Also I use a 10 pack of NiMH AA's for extra power.  The 10x1 holder from 
Mouser fits right under the KX1.


Leigh/WA5ZNU

On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 12:11 am, Frederick Dwight wrote:

Hello Ralph
I also often operate portable with my KX1, often from Phoenix.  ... 
the nearest park with my radio and 25 ft piece of wire and 17 ft radial.

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[Elecraft] Getting K2 DSP To Work

2006-02-20 Thread Harvey Howell
Hi all. I am operating my K2 and trying to get the DSP to work well. I think I 
have the denoiser settings working a little bit but I haven't been able to get 
the automatic notch, nt, set. The other day I had a signal coming in on LSB and 
there was a hetrodyne on it. I turned on the notch and thought it would find 
and suppress the hetrodyne tone but it didn't seem to know it was there. Could 
someone who understands this DSP better than I do give me some beta and decay 
numbers for nr and nt that I could use as a starting point? Thanks very much.

Harvey
KN6VPNo virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.11/264 - Release Date: 2/17/2006
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Errata

2006-02-20 Thread Kevin Rock

Mea Culpa

I lost one of you in the shuffle between copy notes and the final list.

Please add one more QNI to the 20 meter list between WA5ZNU and W0CZ.

   W0YG - Chas - CO - K2 - 4853

I heard him very, very well.  However I did not transcribe him to the list 
when I made it during a lull.


Please accept my apologies for yet another error in my paper shuffling.

   :(
   Kevin.  KD5ONS (Need I say it?  Net Control Operator 5th Class)
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RE: [Elecraft] Getting K2 DSP To Work

2006-02-20 Thread Ken Bessler



From: Harvey Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Getting K2  DSP To Work
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 19:14:31 -0800

Hi all. I am operating my K2 and trying to get the DSP to work well. I 
think I have the denoiser settings working a little bit but I haven't been 
able to get the automatic notch, nt, set. The other day I had a signal 
coming in on LSB and there was a hetrodyne on it. I turned on the notch and 
thought it would find and suppress the hetrodyne
tone but it didn't seem to know it was there. Could someone who understands 
this DSP better than I do give me some beta and decay numbers for nr and nt 
that I could use as a starting point? Thanks very much.


Harvey
KN6VP


FWIW, Here are my settings:

SSB denoiser level 1
CW denoiser level 2
nr 80 30
nt 50 00
Sn G 3.0
Sf G 3.0
Cn G 3.0
Cf G 3.0

73's es gl de Ken KG0WX - K2 #4913, XG2

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Re: [Elecraft] Buzzy K2 speaker

2006-02-20 Thread Stewart Baker
I think that if the battery is fitted that gives a degree of rigidity to the 
top 
panel, and damps down any vibrations. On my K2 with no battery I used a piece 
of 
thick felt glued to the inside of the top cover. Works a treat.

73
Stewart G3RXQ 
On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 22:33:00 GMT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 My K2 had a very irritating buzz (sympathetic vibration) at about 400 hz.  I
 noticed if I pressed on the top cover, it quit.  No amount of adjusting the
 four speaker mounting screws worked.  That ruled out the speaker itself, I
 reckoned.  So, I took the top off, turned it upside down and put pieces of Q
 Pad around the speaker, covering most of the vacant area.   Hot dog!   Buzz
 went away.

 Q Pads are +/- 3/32 inch thick fibrous pads with one sticky side, are used in
 cars to quieten vibrating panels and can be found at professional auto paint
 stores.  Used 'em on my old Ford diesel and quietened it down.  CAVEAT:
 Since the pads are kinda heavy, and are hanging from the top panel, I can't
 vouch for how long they will stay stuck.  They did stay stuck to the bottom
 of my old diesel's oil pan for years and may still be there.  I traded the
 truck.   However, they work so well if they drop down, I will figure some way
 to hold em up.  My ohmmeter says they are nonconductive.  The pads come in
 packs of several roughly 10 sq pads.  Maybe a friendly hot rod shop would
 sell just one, which is more than enough area.

 Another idea is to affix 1/8 in thick aluminum pieces with contact cement.

 73 from N4YM, George

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