Re: [Elecraft] Uses for K1 MCU?- Now way OT
Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: But, if you cut off the legs (and file the stubs down), and drill a small hole in one corner for a small hook, you can then use them as Christmas tree ornaments. My YF (KB4TGE) even has a pair of ear rings made from gold ceramic LM107s that I scrounged many years ago. So those old chips _do_ have a use. You just need to repurpose them! -- Don't forget old tubes! Mounted my retired 833s on polished wood and are used as 'lamps'. 813s ex-modulator don't glow but look slinky. 807s live in the fridge. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Optimum AGC threshold setting
Bob, This query comes up often, so I have started a bit of 'research study' to hopefully obtain a 'number' that will yield close to optimum performance, and so far I have determined that the proper voltage setting for the AGC Threshold depends on the actual voltage output of the 8 volt regulator. I have started a chart and have only a few entries. Based on my current sample size of 5, you can determine a voltage for the AGC Threshold by subtracting 0.50 volts from the actual regulator voltage and then divide by 2. Example, regulator voltage is 7.80 volts; (7.80 - 0.50) = 7.30; 7.30/2 = 3.65 -- if the regulator voltage is 8.10 volts, the AGC Threshold voltage will be 3.80 volts. Since this is yet a small sample, please do not rely on this being the proper setting, this is only preliminary, and my current sample variation is +/- 0.03 volts - I will refine it as I obtain more data. In the meantime, you can help add to my data base by finding the optimum setting for your K2 by doing just as I am on K2 that I align and calibrate - here is the procedure Setup conditions: 1. Remove the antenna 2. RF Gain at full clockwise rotation 3. Band = 40 meters 4. DSP (if installed) = Bypass 5. Preamp = off 6. Mode = CW 7. CW filter at 500 to 800 Hz bandwidth 8. AF Gain advanced far enough to hear the receiver noise Test: 1. Press the PRE/ATT and AGC buttons together to toggle AGC alternately on and off 2. Listen for a change in the level of receiver noise between AGC on and AGC off Monitor and Adjust: 1. Monitor the voltage at Control Board U2 pin 5 2. Adjust Ctrl Bd R1 to the highest voltage where no change in noise is detected between AGC on and AGC off. If you wish to add to my database in hopes of obtaining a 'formula', send me an email with the voltage at U2 pin 5 that you obtained and the voltage at the output of your 8 volt regulator (Control Board U4, upper pin). If you do this, your voltage readings should be to 2 decimal places. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- W3FPR's answer (below) to S-meter settings triggered a question: The manual says to set the AGC to 3.80 V, which I have done, but if I wanted to set it for optimum receiver performance, as Don suggests, which way and how far do I go? I usually use the XG1 and check the S-meter with the preamp off on 40 meters - if the AGC Threshold is set for optimum receiver performance, and CAL S Hi and Lo are set the S-meter usually comes right in at S-9 with the preamp off. Thanks, Bob K5WA K2/100s #4687 #5119 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] For Sale
Excess to my needs, I have an M-Squared OR2800 rotator and control box. It is just back from M-squared where it was checked out and everything replaced that was suspect. It is the older AC model. There is no rotor cable with it. This is a used unit. I have used it to turn my VHF/UHF antennas for the past few years. I'm not sure how many. It shows normal signs of wear and tear. The threads on one mounting hole are stripped, but there are five others, so it isn't a problem. Price is $850.00 plus shipping and insurance from 40391. The unit is packed in the factory box. I can deliver this unit to Dayton on Friday evening or Saturday before five pm. Alternately, I can deliver it to the SVHFS Conference in Greenville, SC. Thanks for the bandwidth. Dave, K4TO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Problems aligning my K1 with ATU - help.
I tried to align my K1-4 last night. TX output was low on the upper bands and I suspected alignment issues. I took out the ATU and put a wire jumper into filter board J2 pins 2 10. I then reconnected the RF board resistor R36 (one end was lifted as part of the ATU upgrade). I moved the RF board P3 jumper from KAT1 to K1. Are these the right steps to allow the K1 to work without the ATU? When I did the alignment, I noticed a couple of the trimmer caps in the middle (C1-4 CA-D) were touchy (intermittent). I reheated the solder joints and was able to get all 4 bands aligned on RX and on TX where I got full power on all bands. Things looked good so I opened up R37, moved the P3 jumper, removed my temporary J2 jumper, and put the ATU back in. Output on 40 and 30 is nil and RX is weak. 20 15 are fine. It seems as though putting it back together somehow knocked it out of alignment. I'm thinking I should replace the touchy trimmer caps. Or maybe check for shorts between the ATU and the filter board. When I did the alignment the filter board was held down with only the center screw. Should I have mounted it fully? Thoughts? Suggestions? - Keith KD1E - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Problems aligning my K1 with ATU - help.
Yes, that is a type. R36 is the resistor! - Keith - -Original Message- From: Paul Meier [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 10:09 AM To: Darwin, Keith Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problems aligning my K1 with ATU - help. This might be a typo but in the first step you talked about R36 having a lifted leg and at the end you reinstalled R37. Just wondering what that was about. Paul K7PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] (Elecraft) Computer control issues - unreliable firmware
Rich, HamStationExtreme just yesterday announced version 3.00.17. I downloaded it but have not yet had a chance to try it. Version 3.00.16 does not work for me either. Keep me informed as to your progress. 73, Bob VE3XM K2/100 S/N 4031 K2 S/N 4575 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Toroid stuff
Is it ok if a bare portion of the winding touches the toroid? A fellow K2 buildr says ok. And the pix of the KPA 100 show the wire stripped bare right up on the toroid. Also, KPA 100 manual says pull wire tight, which is tough if you have arthritis in your basilar (thumb) joint, as I have. So, I am using pliers to tighten things up. This OK? Seems that if I pull too hard the insulation might be damaged and let the wire make electrical contace with the form. Wonder why Elecraft did not mention use of pliers as a way to get snug windings? Mebbe not OK? Seems to depend on answer to my first question. Thanks, and 73, from N4YM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Options - when?
I've just added KNB2, KSB2 and KAT2 to s/n 3641, a basic CW K2. KNB2 requires access to the top and bottom of the RF board - easy, just the top and bottom cover. KSB2 requires the same access - some of the work is a little more crowded (just like the KSB2 itself). It *also* requires that you add some components to the front panel board (and, while you're in there, ground the mic jack, too!). KAT2 requires that you remove the heat sink, which means fiddling the PA transistors. You might want to put the aux RF connector in now, if you have it already. None of it was at all difficult. 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Toroid stuff
N4YM asked: 1) Is it ok if a bare portion of the winding touches the toroid? A fellow K2 buildr says ok. And the pix of the KPA 100 show the wire stripped bare right up on the toroid. 2) I am using pliers to tighten things up. This OK? -- 1) Yes. The toroid cores are good insulators. You only need to be sure you aren't shorting two turns together because the bare wire extends more than one turn onto the coil. Also you need to be careful of bi-filar windings (see below). 2) Just don't get carried away using those pliers. Cores will break and the wire will break where it bends around the core. My copy of the manual does NOT say the wire is pulled tight, only that when winding with the heavier wire it can be more difficult to handle and that the ...turns should not be loose... meaning very loose! The wire NEVER lays exactly flat against the cores when wound normally. There's always some small gaps as it wraps around. Be especially careful of the bifilar windings. The enamel can be scraped off of the wire very easily by rubbing them together too hard. That would produce shorts between the turns. If in doubt, check for an open circuit between the windings BEFORE installing them on the PCB (once installed the PCB circuit provides continuity, so you can't check that way once they are soldered in place). Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Options - when?
Ron makes a good point, although I wouldn't consider it to be intimidating, it is a pain to get the heat sink back on. The finals are held by screws which are difficult for fat fingers to keep in place (I finally realized that I should use a piece of electrical tape to hold them down). Also, make sure you re-test the finals for shorts to ground. I try to consolidate my trips under the heat sink as this is my least favorite part of going under the hood. GL Tom WB2QDG K2 1193 The only disassembly anyone has grumbled about that I've seen is in removing the part of the bottom cover used for the final amplifier heat sink, since some hardware is attached to it. I have done it many times without any bother, but some folks find it intimidating. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FUSE BLOWN AND NOW WHAT?
Hello everyone: this time I have to come forward and confess with full exposure in broad day light. I made a terrible mistake! My KPA100 tested beautifully untill I got to the 20A power supply test (page 45). As I turned on the K2 (#8 step) nothing happened. I checked and I had blown a fuse (the one that comes with the kit). I switched off everything and went back to figure 32 (page 38)...I had reversed the wires on j4 when I soldered them on the KPA100 board. As I was taking my time to unsolder the cables, clean the pads etc. I thought I could turn on the K2 on its own (as before) with my low power supply and nothing else attached to it. Well here comes the suprise...I cannot turn on the K2 at all. I have the 13,0 volts allright, coming out of my small PS but nothing happens. What did I blow away? J4 was plugged in P3, of course, when I blew the fuse. Your comments and recommendations will be very much appreciated. Thank you 73 Manuel Wilches LU5OM CT4IK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ Red Baron Vertical
Hello all! I'm presently designing what I call the WA3WSJ Red Baron Vertical. It's a packpacker's dream antenna! It's a basic 20m wire vertical with four ground radials. The 20m version should weigh-in around 2ozs or so! I'm in the design phase of adding loading coils for 30m and 40m too. You would just plug the antenna into the back of your KX1, K1 or K2 and your on 20m. The SWRs on 20m look excellent ie 1.2:1. If you want to change bands, just plug in a small loading coil to the back of your rig then plug the antenna into that. You should be able to change bands in seconds! A nice very lightweight antenna system for 20m,30m and 40m. I'll let you know how it turns out on 30m and 40m. 72, Ed, WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] FUSE BLOWN AND NOW WHAT?
Manuel, It is only a guess, but I would expect that the auto-resetting fuse in the K2 is open, and possibly Doide D12 is shorted, or both. With the K2 power switch in the ON position, check the resistance to ground from the cathode of D10, you should measure more than 500 ohms - if it is less than 500, turn the power switch to OFF and check again, this time the resistance should be infinite. If you have a low resistance with the power switch in the OFF position, look for a short to ground (or a shorted D12). If you do find a high resistance with the switch off, then connect your power supply and measre voltages - first at the anode of D10, then the cathode - next check at the center contacts of the power switch. If you have voltage at the cathode of D10 and none at the power switch, F1 is likely open. Good luck and let us know what you find. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hello everyone: this time I have to come forward and confess with full exposure in broad day light. I made a terrible mistake! My KPA100 tested beautifully untill I got to the 20A power supply test (page 45). As I turned on the K2 (#8 step) nothing happened. I checked and I had blown a fuse (the one that comes with the kit). I switched off everything and went back to figure 32 (page 38)...I had reversed the wires on j4 when I soldered them on the KPA100 board. As I was taking my time to unsolder the cables, clean the pads etc. I thought I could turn on the K2 on its own (as before) with my low power supply and nothing else attached to it. Well here comes the suprise...I cannot turn on the K2 at all. I have the 13,0 volts allright, coming out of my small PS but nothing happens. What did I blow away? J4 was plugged in P3, of course, when I blew the fuse. Your comments and recommendations will be very much appreciated. Thank you 73 Manuel Wilches LU5OM CT4IK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] PLL problems with K2 #5061
Hello folks, I think I must be kin to Joe Bftsplk of L'il Abner fame years ago.I seem to have a black cloud hovering over me as I build and check #5061. I had a problem with Q6 being overtaxed by a 4V bias on the base during keydown which turned out to be a shorted Q10 FET. When I got that fixed I anxiously started to finish the calibration only to find the PLL now won't lock! I had that problem during the build which turned out to be a solder bridge on the thermister board shorting the 4V ref for the PLL comparator. Once I fixed that the cal went smoothly. I have rechecked all connections on T5 and have reheated all connections on the RF board with no improvement. The oscillators are running (I can hear stations drift by as I put my finger near T5 or other oscillator components or when I tweak L30.) I have scoped all signals in the PLL chain and they are all there except for SCK. I checked that signal on the control board and it is also missing. The signal sits at logic high with no pulses. I would expect that signal to run all the time if I understand the circuit correctly. I removed the control board and reseated U6 MCU with no change in symptoms. Anyone have any suggestions where to go from here? Thanks in advance, Pat Haynes-K4BEH (706) 692-0279 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT100 and INFO080 problem
Hello friends, i recently build my k2#5426 and it works amazingly fine. But now i run into some trouble with my external tuner: when connected, i get this info080 message during power-up and the KAT100 wont start. Inside my K2 the KAF, the NB, a kio and the ssb-adapter are installed and work perfectly. Firmware should be the last possible release, i got my kits just three weeks ago. Of course I searched the eMail list but didnt find really a solution to my problem. What i already did: i checked both my K2 and my KAT100 again carefully, all ICs etc are correct installed; i tried to connect them directly via a short 10pin flat-ribbon cable between P4/control board and P4/KAT100 rf board; i checked the AUX-BUS connection between the K2 MCU and the KAT100 MCU. When I am disconnecting the KAT everything works fine again; when i remove the MCU from its socket in the KAT no error appears. -So I am thinking that the problem must be somewhere in the auxbus communication between the rig and the tuner, but because of the fact that the K2 alone runs flawless with all the modules installed i would rather search the bug inside the kat. Maybe anyone here outside does have an idea whereand how i should proceed with my troubleshooting? Might it be possible that the MCU inside the tuner could be defective and i should order a replacement? -Any hints/ideas are warmly appreciated, greets from cologne, -- Gruss! 73 de Rolf Dohmen, DL1KJ Dohmen EDVTelekommunikation * Dammstr.13 * 50259 Pulheim Tel:02238/9638-96 Fax:-99 Mobil:0172/2719098 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
