RE: [Elecraft] 8T 8R
Don, Your statement about VOX clipping is true of most transceivers. The one exception that I know of is the STAR transceiver by G3XJP. With this design the audio from the microphone is delayed in DSP until all of the RF changeover etc has been accomplished. This gives a very clean and precise VOX operation. 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Sat, 22 Apr 2006 16:29:28 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: Bill, My opinion is showing, but VOX will clip leading syllables no matter what - and that goes for any transceiver. It may or may not be important - not much intelligibility will be lost in most instances, but the use of VOX leads to operating practices on SSB that contain phrases like: Ahhh - I am - I prefer using PTT. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- One question on this -- how does this work for SSB? Is there a 15-20ms delay circuit that allows the VOX to key before the RF makes its way out, or does the K2 simply clip 15ms or so of audio before it is transmitting? I can see how this works for CW, since the K2 can delay the keying waveform by 15ms. How about SSB? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Power Fluctuations on K2 just Built
I recently completed my K2 and I am noticing that my Power output is very flaky and does not seem to track the Power control knob very well. I have tried both the TUNE button and the Key input with a Hand Key and I am getting power fluctuations with both. I am suspecting something in the ALC circuit at this point - Anyone have any ideas on this - Since the installation of the two final transistors is kind of tricky - if they are not installed correctly - could this cause this behaviour? Also - if I measure from the Collector of the Finals to ground - what should I measure in Ohms? I would like to compare mine to someone else's K2 to see if I might have a partial short in my finals. However - the way the power fluctuates - I am really suspecting something in the ALC circuit - Just wondering if anyone else has run into this issue... Thanks in advance! John - WB8UFA John J. Bahun Software Engineer - Apple Computer Inc. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] I finally figured it out (RTTY)
Hi, I was looking at the RTTY page of Steve, W2MY/5 and came across his Cat page http://users.ev1.net/~spituch/Steve's%20Page/Radio/cat/Cat.htm Well, our cat Bandit, and I thought it was terrific. Kevin ZL1UJG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Missing CW sidetone on K2?
Hi all, Here in the Megapode Camping Resort branch of the VU4AN operation (leader DL4KQ), where we have at least 5 K2's, one of them has lost its CW sidetone. It's believed that this is a known problem. Can someone email me the appropriate information about this? 73, doug VU3RYN and N6TQS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Missing CW sidetone on K2?
Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604 wrote: Here in the Megapode Camping Resort branch of the VU4AN operation (leader DL4KQ), where we have at least 5 K2's, one of them has lost its CW sidetone. It's believed that this is a known problem. The usual issue is you're using the wrong sidetone source. Menu STL Edit tap display to select sidetone source Usually you want to use U8-4, not U6-25, which isn't used unless you have a really old K2 and haven't kept up-to-date on your mods. -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] HEADLINE: Astronaut Takes Blame For Gas In Spacecraft ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Soldering tip
There has been alot of soldering how-to on the reflector. No matter what I do my soldering station tip does not stay shiny. It seems that I must retin it after every connection... What could cause this? I have been building the Norcal 40a with David Rutledges the Electronics of Radio. Boy what a great learning experience. I recommend the book and the kit for any ham serious ham... Now once I get this soldering tip matter cured, then I'm ready to start the KX1 73 DE Ken K1UM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Soldering tip
Ken, I have seen this happen when a soldering element does not properly control the temperature and the tip overheats. If you are using good solder, and your temperature is correct, the tip should stay tinned for a good long while. OTOH, if the tip temperature is WAY too high, it will kill the tinning very quickly. If you have an adjustable temp soldering station, try turning the temperature lower and see if things improve. It is possible that your iron element has lost its ability to properly control temperature (or you had a bad one in the first place). Hint for better tip tinning life - do not wipe the tip when putting it away in the holder, but do wipe it when you remove it from the holder and are ready to melt solder. Leaving a bit of excess solder on the tip while storing it will help preserve the plating on the tip. Good luck with the 40a and the KX1 - you will want a small tip on your iron for the KX1 - I like a 3/64 inch chisel tip, some folks like a conical tip. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- There has been alot of soldering how-to on the reflector. No matter what I do my soldering station tip does not stay shiny. It seems that I must retin it after every connection... What could cause this? I have been building the Norcal 40a with David Rutledges the Electronics of Radio. Boy what a great learning experience. I recommend the book and the kit for any ham serious ham... Now once I get this soldering tip matter cured, then I'm ready to start the KX1 73 DE Ken K1UM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Strange receive problem
Joe N9JR wrote on Saturday, April 22, 2006 11:10 PM I have an issue on 30m receive only. When I transmit on 30m I get full power, and it receives normal, but after a while it loses most of its sensitivity. Transmit again and it will hear the other side of the earth. I have noticed that once it goes partially deaf I can get a High Curr indication on the first dash I send, but after that it puts out full power with no complaints and of course after every transmission it is that beautiful K2 receive. I had the same problem with 40m 18 months or so ago and posted comment on 20 November 2005 when Mark, KJ7BS, experienced a similar problem. In my case the problem was caused by a 'dirty' contact of K1 in the BPF. Although problems with bifurcated 'wipe clean' contacts in sealed relays very rarely occur, they can arise. I think we can eliminate the BPF as nothing changes in it for either 30 or 20. Perhaps. When your receiver goes partially deaf on 30m, have you tried switching to 40m (not 20m) and back to 30m to see if the receiver recovers - without transmitting? This would exercise K4 in the 20m / 30m BPF. If the receiver recovers then K4's contacts become possible suspects. If it does not recover, then the BPF assembly is likely to be OK. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Appalachian trail Activation Today
Hello, Today Mark, NK8Q and I will be out on the Appalachian Trail. Look for us on 40, 30 or 20 meters around the QRP frequencies. Should be on the air around 16:00 UTC. I will be using my K1 and mark will have his K2. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Power Fluctuations on K2 just Built
John, The most likely cause is an unsoldered connection or a poorly soldered one. The problem can be anywhere in the power control loop. The beginning of the power control starts with the VPWR signal out of U8 pin 2 on the Control Board, then goes through the keying control circuit and exits there as VALC which is applied to the RF Board Q24 to control the amount of BFO injection. The RF signal is frequency translated and amplified by the transmit chain and the ouptut RF Voltage is sampled and rectified by diode D9 - that voltage is then fed back to the microprocessor as the VRFDET signal where it is compared with the power control setting by the firmware - finally VPWR is adjusted to compensate and bring the power to the requested level. Sooo - your problem can be anywhere in that loop. Examine all your soldering carefully, then check the soldering again, and when you have completed that, check the soldering! Use the schematic to identify the components associated with each path and check each of them one at a time - then when you find it, you will know what caused the problem. Measuring the collector to ground resistance of the output transistors will produce different results depending on your meter and the probe polarity and the time you apply the probes - some meters will charge the big electrolytic capacitor in the collector circuit in the process. If you have more than 500 ohms, you are good. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I recently completed my K2 and I am noticing that my Power output is very flaky and does not seem to track the Power control knob very well. I have tried both the TUNE button and the Key input with a Hand Key and I am getting power fluctuations with both. I am suspecting something in the ALC circuit at this point - Anyone have any ideas on this - Since the installation of the two final transistors is kind of tricky - if they are not installed correctly - could this cause this behaviour? Also - if I measure from the Collector of the Finals to ground - what should I measure in Ohms? I would like to compare mine to someone else's K2 to see if I might have a partial short in my finals. However - the way the power fluctuates - I am really suspecting something in the ALC circuit - Just wondering if anyone else has run into this issue... Thanks in advance! John - WB8UFA John J. Bahun Software Engineer - Apple Computer Inc. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.5/321 - Release Date: 4/21/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 RS-232 Command Set
Steve, Here is the information you may need: K2 Programmer's Command Reference - RS-232 Computer Control http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KIO2%20Pgmrs%20Ref%20rev%20E.pdf Hope this helps. 73, Bill - WA5PB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stephen Okolita Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 9:13 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K2 RS-232 Command Set Hi folks, I want to take a stab at a homebrew remote control application for the K2. Can anyone point me at a source that describes the K2 RS-232 command set/responses/etc? I understand it's related to the Kenwood rs-232 but I still haven't had much luck tracking it down. Any help would be appreciated. 73, Steve __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.5/321 - Release Date: 4/21/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.5/322 - Release Date: 4/22/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] PC BOARD DRILL BITS
Just a note for builders, especially those who make their own PC boards. While you CAN use high-speed steel drill bits to drill your glass-epoxy PC boards, you'll find that they (the bits) will dull very quickly (sometimes within the first dozen holes) due to heating (especially when turned at high rotational speeds) and the dulling effects of the fiberglass in the PC board substrate. For drilling holes in PC boards, drill bits made of Tungsten Carbide will last MUCH LONGER (typically several THOUSAND holes), even when turned at very high speeds. The problem with carbide bits though is that they are EXTREMELY BRITTLE and will break if you even look at them askance, or if they're subjected to lateral stress. Run them straight up 'n down and they'll last for a LONG time, but apply even a small amount of lateral stress and you'll be replacing the bit in a heartbeat. JUST A WORD TO THE WISE SHOULD BE SUFFICIENT. For the past 20+ years, I've been making my own PC boards... in the kitchen... with the kind forbearance of my dear XYL, Jeri (K0RPH). And I've been using an old Dremel MotoTool, secured in a drill stand designed to hold the device, for virtually all drilling tasks. The drill stand allows me to run the drill motor (and bit) straight up and down, with virtually no lateral stress on the bit (unless I try to move the PC board before the bit's fully exited the last-drilled hole (bad things happen then!). I've had problems finding reasonably-priced suitable tungsten-carbide bits however. Most new bits run $4-$5 (US) each and I shudder to think of breaking one each time I chuck it up into the drill motor. I found a semi-local source of used bits (but still good for a few thousand holes), but I think he's no longer available, so I've had to search for another source. Fortunately a friend, Willie, KH6NO/7, has found a source of resharpened tungsten-carbide bits in Drill Bit City... http://www.store.yahoo.com/drillcity/restool.html While the prices ($0.90/bit) are not those I was paying a year or two ago, they're still a LOT better than 4X to 5X that price, for bit which will break just as fast, and which won't drill any more holes than a resharpened bit. Just thought I'd bring this to the attention of anyone who might be searching for a more reasonable price for their PC board drill bits. A sharp tungsten-carbide bit, chucked up in a high-speed drill motor will go thru PC board like a hot knife thru butter. Enjoy. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering tip
Ken: There has been alot of soldering how-to on the reflector. No matter what I do my soldering station tip does not stay shiny. It seems that I must retin it after every connection... What could cause this? The following comments are from my personal experience from 40+ years of building. I DO NOT FANCY MYSELF TO BE AN EXPERT ON SOLDERING... particularly in the company of some of the folks here on this reflector... HEAT will cause the tip to develop a thin coating of oxidized lead in a very short period of time, as will burnt flux. DO NOT EXPECT the tip to remain bright and shiny when it's sitting, waiting for the next joint. And be sure to set your tip temperature at a level which is appropriate for your soldering operations. Generally 700-725 deg. F seems to work pretty well for most kit soldering. If you leave the iron setting for long periods of time, TURN THE TEMP DOWN... or OFF. There's little (if any) need to clean the tip AFTER you complete a soldered joint... the solder remaining on the tip will help to protect it from excessive oxidation of the iron cladding on the tip. However, keep a 'cleaning pad' of some sort next to your soldering station and wipe the tip on the pad each time JUST BEFORE you solder that next joint. There has been some discussion with regard to what type of 'wiping pad' to use. Some prefer to use a dampened sponge, others a damp rag, and I personally prefer to use a coiled stainless steel kitchen 'scrubbie'... similar to those offered by Hakko for its line of soldering stations. From experience, I've found that rubbing the tip of my soldering iron against a damp pad of any type does a nice job of cleaning off the crud which has built up on the tip of the iron, but it also cools down the tip just at the instant I'm wanting to use it... never quite rang true for me... cool the tip just before you use it... but I found that merely inserting the tip of my iron down into the coils of a stainless steel kitchen scrubbie... www.n0ss.net/soldering_iron_tip_cleaner.pdf will produce a nice clean tip with minimal tip cooling. And any 'dross' scraped off the tip filters down to the bottom of the enclosure I'm using to hold the scrubbie, so I can pull it out once a month and dump out the crud into the wastebasket. I've used this cleaning method for the past 15-20 years on all sorts of soldering iron tips and have never experienced ANY evidence of excessive tip wear or abrading of the plated-on iron coatings of any of my tips. Now once I get this soldering tip matter cured, then I'm ready to start the KX1 Hope these suggestions might help a bit. Now, I'll wait for the rebuttals from those who know what they're doing. G 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] PC BOARD DRILL BITS
Tom, You are dead right about the fragility of the bits. I was lucky enough to pick up a couple of boxes of bits at Dayton a few years back, 50 bits per box, $5 per box, the guy had loads, they were new too, guess I was lucky. Regards, Steve ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Max Watts KPA100 RTTY
Hi all, What is the maximum safe operating power out for AFSK RTTY using the KPA100 in the EC2 case? The manual says 40 Watts for BPSK, and 25 Watts MFSK. TU, Steve, W2MY/5 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.5/322 - Release Date: 4/22/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Max Watts KPA100 RTTY
On Apr 23, 2006, at 11:32 AM, Steven Pituch wrote: What is the maximum safe operating power out for AFSK RTTY using the KPA100 in the EC2 case? The manual says 40 Watts for BPSK, and 25 Watts MFSK. My KPA100 is in the K2 case, but I'll relate my experience. I've run my K2/100 very hard in contests, SSB, CW and RTTY. I can run 100 watts SSB or CW, no problem. CW ends up being a lot hotter than SSB. If I run 40 watt RTTY, the heat sink will get even hotter than the hottest on CW. I would recommend 25-30 watts only. If you add a supplemental cooling fan to the heat sink, you can run 50 watts or so. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly! -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering tip
Translation: Wipe on a wet sponge before use. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Apr 23, 2006, at 7:35 AM, Tom Hammond wrote: Ken: There has been alot of soldering how-to on the reflector. No matter what I do my soldering station tip does not stay shiny. It seems that I must retin it after every connection... What could cause this? The following comments are from my personal experience from 40+ years of building. I DO NOT FANCY MYSELF TO BE AN EXPERT ON SOLDERING... particularly in the company of some of the folks here on this reflector... HEAT will cause the tip to develop a thin coating of oxidized lead in a very short period of time, as will burnt flux. DO NOT EXPECT the tip to remain bright and shiny when it's sitting, waiting for the next joint. And be sure to set your tip temperature at a level which is appropriate for your soldering operations. Generally 700-725 deg. F seems to work pretty well for most kit soldering. If you leave the iron setting for long periods of time, TURN THE TEMP DOWN... or OFF. There's little (if any) need to clean the tip AFTER you complete a soldered joint... the solder remaining on the tip will help to protect it from excessive oxidation of the iron cladding on the tip. However, keep a 'cleaning pad' of some sort next to your soldering station and wipe the tip on the pad each time JUST BEFORE you solder that next joint. There has been some discussion with regard to what type of 'wiping pad' to use. Some prefer to use a dampened sponge, others a damp rag, and I personally prefer to use a coiled stainless steel kitchen 'scrubbie'... similar to those offered by Hakko for its line of soldering stations. From experience, I've found that rubbing the tip of my soldering iron against a damp pad of any type does a nice job of cleaning off the crud which has built up on the tip of the iron, but it also cools down the tip just at the instant I'm wanting to use it... never quite rang true for me... cool the tip just before you use it... but I found that merely inserting the tip of my iron down into the coils of a stainless steel kitchen scrubbie... www.n0ss.net/soldering_iron_tip_cleaner.pdf will produce a nice clean tip with minimal tip cooling. And any 'dross' scraped off the tip filters down to the bottom of the enclosure I'm using to hold the scrubbie, so I can pull it out once a month and dump out the crud into the wastebasket. I've used this cleaning method for the past 15-20 years on all sorts of soldering iron tips and have never experienced ANY evidence of excessive tip wear or abrading of the plated-on iron coatings of any of my tips. Now once I get this soldering tip matter cured, then I'm ready to start the KX1 Hope these suggestions might help a bit. Now, I'll wait for the rebuttals from those who know what they're doing. G 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] PC BOARD DRILL BITS
Tungsten carbide bits live a LOT longer if they're used an a drill press, they just can't stand ANY side forces. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 23, 2006, at 7:11 AM, Tom Hammond wrote: Just a note for builders, especially those who make their own PC boards. While you CAN use high-speed steel drill bits to drill your glass-epoxy PC boards, you'll find that they (the bits) will dull very quickly (sometimes within the first dozen holes) due to heating (especially when turned at high rotational speeds) and the dulling effects of the fiberglass in the PC board substrate. For drilling holes in PC boards, drill bits made of Tungsten Carbide will last MUCH LONGER (typically several THOUSAND holes), even when turned at very high speeds. The problem with carbide bits though is that they are EXTREMELY BRITTLE and will break if you even look at them askance, or if they're subjected to lateral stress. Run them straight up 'n down and they'll last for a LONG time, but apply even a small amount of lateral stress and you'll be replacing the bit in a heartbeat. JUST A WORD TO THE WISE SHOULD BE SUFFICIENT. For the past 20+ years, I've been making my own PC boards... in the kitchen... with the kind forbearance of my dear XYL, Jeri (K0RPH). And I've been using an old Dremel MotoTool, secured in a drill stand designed to hold the device, for virtually all drilling tasks. The drill stand allows me to run the drill motor (and bit) straight up and down, with virtually no lateral stress on the bit (unless I try to move the PC board before the bit's fully exited the last-drilled hole (bad things happen then!). I've had problems finding reasonably-priced suitable tungsten-carbide bits however. Most new bits run $4-$5 (US) each and I shudder to think of breaking one each time I chuck it up into the drill motor. I found a semi-local source of used bits (but still good for a few thousand holes), but I think he's no longer available, so I've had to search for another source. Fortunately a friend, Willie, KH6NO/7, has found a source of resharpened tungsten-carbide bits in Drill Bit City... http://www.store.yahoo.com/drillcity/restool.html While the prices ($0.90/bit) are not those I was paying a year or two ago, they're still a LOT better than 4X to 5X that price, for bit which will break just as fast, and which won't drill any more holes than a resharpened bit. Just thought I'd bring this to the attention of anyone who might be searching for a more reasonable price for their PC board drill bits. A sharp tungsten-carbide bit, chucked up in a high-speed drill motor will go thru PC board like a hot knife thru butter. Enjoy. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 and TenTec Titan and Logikey -- interface question
I want to use my old TenTec Titan amp with K2 #4314 for nets where I am often having to get a relay working at QRP levels. Is there any reason not to use an outboard keyer (older Idiom K-3) to key the Titan via its KEY IN jack and then use the TenTec's KEY OUT jack to key the K2 via the K2's key jack with InP = HAnd? Likewise how about SSB with an outboard PTT switch keying the amp which subsequently keys the K2's PTT/dot line by the same method? As always, thanks to this amazingly competent netgroup. 73 Ken Rice K3VV Coopersburg, PA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Appalachian trail Activation Today
Hello, Despite the bad band conditions Mark, NK8Q and I had a great time. We arrived at our location and got on the air by 16:15 UTC. Next time Mark and I go out we will setup farther away from each other. I heard marks second harmonic from 40 meters on 20 meters. He moved up to 7.043 and called CQ for a while with no luck. I called CQ on 20 meters and worked Tom, AC7A, in AZ. QSB was real bad today. After we lost each other in the QSB I called CQ for a while on 20 meters. After about 20 minutes of CQ's and no replies I moved to 30 meters. I heard a real strong signal, it was Mark, NK8Q, who was about 20 feet away. So I made a quick Q with Mark. Then I moved onto 40 meters. I called CQ for about 30 minutes and I had no replies. I went back to 20 meters and looked for any calls in the lower 25 kHz. I heard a G3 stations calling CQ. I tried going back to his call a few times but I had no luck. He liked calling CQ for 15 minute intervals. When he signed the propagation was bad and his signal was only a 229 at the time. The weather was foggy and overcast. We had a light shower and the temperature was around 52' F. Around 17:30 UTC I asked Mark if he was thirsty, he said yes. So we packed up and hiked to our cars. Then we headed to the local water hole for a meal ad a few beers. Right now I am listening for the Elecraft Net, no signals to be heard. Guess I will try 40 meters later this evening. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ K1 - SN 01011 K2 - SN 01392 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 and Heil ProSet
I have a Heil ProSet that I use with my Yaesu FT1000MP. Does anyone know the part number for the K2 adapter so I can use the Heil with the K2? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Need help for sick K1
When I built my (second) K1-4 last year, it worked fine in all respects, with output as expected. Couple months ago it turned into a K1-2. I got full power on 40 and 30 M but less than 1/2 W on 20 and 15 M. I took it apart and measured RF voltages on 20 M. They were low at all points. I put it together without the tuner. It worked on all bands. A K1-4 again. I put tuner back and it still worked fine. I used it without problem until today. Bact to a K1-2 again. 20 and 15 M had less than 1/2 W. I took it apart and removed tuner again. Big change. Now I get too much power on all bands. 10 W on 40 M to 5 W on 15 M. I have never got more than 7 W on any band. I turned power down to 0.1 W and still got high power on all bands. Also, the RF indicator on the K1 dosn't work. No bars light. Looks like I have a power control problem. Like no control. Any ideas? Supply voltage was 12.7 V. 73 Rick K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 and Heil ProSet
If this is the main mic that you will use with the K2, then you can wire the K2 mic configuration header for the Yaesu pinout, and then use whatever adapter you use with the Yaesu on the K2. OTOH, if you use a variety of mics with the K2, I recommend that you wire the mic configuration header for the Elecraft pinout and make/buy an adapter for any other mic that you will use. I see nothing wrong with changing the pinout at the mic plug rather than dealing with the complication of changing the wiring in the K2 just to accomodate a variety of mics. Of course, if you must use a mic for the K2 as well as with another transceiver, just wire the K2 to match whatever other transceiver the mic comes from. The instructions for wiring the mic configuration header to mathc a variety of mics is in the KSB2 manual. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have a Heil ProSet that I use with my Yaesu FT1000MP. Does anyone know the part number for the K2 adapter so I can use the Heil with the K2? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Need help for sick K1
Rick, Look carefully, then look again and again for the bad solder connection in the K1 tuner. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- When I built my (second) K1-4 last year, it worked fine in all respects, with output as expected. Couple months ago it turned into a K1-2. I got full power on 40 and 30 M but less than 1/2 W on 20 and 15 M. I took it apart and measured RF voltages on 20 M. They were low at all points. I put it together without the tuner. It worked on all bands. A K1-4 again. I put tuner back and it still worked fine. I used it without problem until today. Bact to a K1-2 again. 20 and 15 M had less than 1/2 W. I took it apart and removed tuner again. Big change. Now I get too much power on all bands. 10 W on 40 M to 5 W on 15 M. I have never got more than 7 W on any band. I turned power down to 0.1 W and still got high power on all bands. Also, the RF indicator on the K1 dosn't work. No bars light. Looks like I have a power control problem. Like no control. Any ideas? Supply voltage was 12.7 V. 73 Rick K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 and TenTec Titan and Logikey -- interface question
K. Rice wrote: Is there any reason not to use an outboard keyer (older Idiom K-3) to key the Titan via its KEY IN jack and then use the TenTec's KEY OUT jack to key the K2 via the K2's key jack with InP = HAnd? You can certainly do this, or you can add an amplifier keying circuit (see http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Amp_keying_ckt.htm) to your QRP K2 and have the K2 key the amplifier directly. The amp key circuit is based on the 8r line which keys the amp 10-15ms before RF appears, and can be adjusted for a desired hold time afterwards. Then you can use either the internal keyer or the Logikey. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 and Heil ProSet
Don, Your comment reflects where I think I am at the moment - I would like to use various headsets with the K2 without having to change the K2 to be any other radio or radios than a K2. Although Elecraft shows a ProSet-K2 on their website, I can't find an adapter-only part anywhere. 73, Byron Don Wilhelm wrote: If this is the main mic that you will use with the K2, then you can wire the K2 mic configuration header for the Yaesu pinout, and then use whatever adapter you use with the Yaesu on the K2. OTOH, if you use a variety of mics with the K2, I recommend that you wire the mic configuration header for the Elecraft pinout and make/buy an adapter for any other mic that you will use. I see nothing wrong with changing the pinout at the mic plug rather than dealing with the complication of changing the wiring in the K2 just to accomodate a variety of mics. Of course, if you must use a mic for the K2 as well as with another transceiver, just wire the K2 to match whatever other transceiver the mic comes from. The instructions for wiring the mic configuration header to mathc a variety of mics is in the KSB2 manual. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have a Heil ProSet that I use with my Yaesu FT1000MP. Does anyone know the part number for the K2 adapter so I can use the Heil with the K2? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering tip
On Sunday 23 April 2006 18:43, Alexandra Carter wrote: Translation: Wipe on a wet sponge before use. 73 de Alex NS6Y. I was rebutted by an instructor when I worked for the BBC in 1979 when I said 'a wet sponge': he corrected and emphasised, 'a damp sponge'. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need help for sick K1
Thanks Don - I will do that. I am using the K1 without the tuner now, to see what happens for a while. Another list member reminded me to change the power meter jumper on the RF board. That took care of the power request and display problems. Now to find the 20 and 15 M power out problem. I am having trouble with the problem being in the tuner as I don't see any band specific circuitry there. I had assumed the problem would have to be in the high freq. half of the filter board. Being intermittent greatly increases the difficulty in troubleshooting. Banging the K1 on the table has no effect. Neither does course language. 73 Rick K7MW - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Rick Dettinger [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 5:21 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Need help for sick K1 Rick, Look carefully, then look again and again for the bad solder connection in the K1 tuner. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- When I built my (second) K1-4 last year, it worked fine in all respects, with output as expected. Couple months ago it turned into a K1-2. I got full power on 40 and 30 M but less than 1/2 W on 20 and 15 M. I took it apart and measured RF voltages on 20 M. They were low at all points. I put it together without the tuner. It worked on all bands. A K1-4 again. I put tuner back and it still worked fine. I used it without problem until today. Bact to a K1-2 again. 20 and 15 M had less than 1/2 W. I took it apart and removed tuner again. Big change. Now I get too much power on all bands. 10 W on 40 M to 5 W on 15 M. I have never got more than 7 W on any band. I turned power down to 0.1 W and still got high power on all bands. Also, the RF indicator on the K1 dosn't work. No bars light. Looks like I have a power control problem. Like no control. Any ideas? Supply voltage was 12.7 V. 73 Rick K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Need help for sick K1
Rick, If the problem persists with the tuner in bypass state, the most likely area to look is the wattmeter section of the tuner. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Thanks Don - I will do that. I am using the K1 without the tuner now, to see what happens for a while. Another list member reminded me to change the power meter jumper on the RF board. That took care of the power request and display problems. Now to find the 20 and 15 M power out problem. I am having trouble with the problem being in the tuner as I don't see any band specific circuitry there. I had assumed the problem would have to be in the high freq. half of the filter board. Being intermittent greatly increases the difficulty in troubleshooting. Banging the K1 on the table has no effect. Neither does course language. 73 Rick K7MW - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Rick Dettinger [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 5:21 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Need help for sick K1 Rick, Look carefully, then look again and again for the bad solder connection in the K1 tuner. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- When I built my (second) K1-4 last year, it worked fine in all respects, with output as expected. Couple months ago it turned into a K1-2. I got full power on 40 and 30 M but less than 1/2 W on 20 and 15 M. I took it apart and measured RF voltages on 20 M. They were low at all points. I put it together without the tuner. It worked on all bands. A K1-4 again. I put tuner back and it still worked fine. I used it without problem until today. Bact to a K1-2 again. 20 and 15 M had less than 1/2 W. I took it apart and removed tuner again. Big change. Now I get too much power on all bands. 10 W on 40 M to 5 W on 15 M. I have never got more than 7 W on any band. I turned power down to 0.1 W and still got high power on all bands. Also, the RF indicator on the K1 dosn't work. No bars light. Looks like I have a power control problem. Like no control. Any ideas? Supply voltage was 12.7 V. 73 Rick K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ECN 4/23 20m
Kevin was nil, except for a couple of peaks in the QSB. FWIW: I tried you on long path which turned out to be a not very good joke. Very few others readable, 8-land and KL7, the 4's I heard were weak. I've seen the minimums after Cycle 19, 20, 21, and 22. This one seems to take the cake. 73, Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw K2/100 4398 KX1 897 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need help for sick K1
Thanks Don - It does. I was using a dummy load and I should have mentioned that I bypassed the tuner in the menu. 73 Rick K7MW Rick, If the problem persists with the tuner in bypass state, the most likely area to look is the wattmeter section of the tuner. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Calibration using WWV
Good Evening, I've just completed soldering the K2, and have WWV at 10Mhz tuned in. The display shows it at +380 hz high. According to the manual, on page 60, the K2 can be calibrated using WWV. Unfortunately I do not see the procedure to do this. Is it published ? Could I have a link to a a procedure on how to do this ? Thank you in advance. Douglas Todd ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTB: KNB2
I would like to buy an assembled KNB2 noise blanker, late s/n. (If they have s/n's.) Please respond off list Thanks, Stu W6CUX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for April 23rd 24th, 2006
Good Evening, Twenty meters was tougher than normal. I was told in another email that this solar minimum may be the weakest in some time. I would not know any better because this is my first as a transmitting op. I was an SWL during a few previous cycles but working two way is much more fun. In my opinion this evening's twenty meter net was like listening through a layer of marshmallows. I know there were some 4 land folks trying but all I got was the four and a letter or two. I did get an NN station and am sure I heard K4JPN but did not get a reply when I called either of them back. K2HYD on 20 had to be the toughest successful contact. It took him sending his call over and over until I got all the parts. I thought I heard HYD right off the bat but QSB must have been so bad my 100 watts did not make it to VA. However, we got it done and in the books. Wayne should be proud of what his KX1 design can do on the air. Look at how many check ins were from that little rig. They make me work but I got them in the log ;) On 20 meters Rick had a good signal but Ray was weak. On 40 meters Rick was weak and Ray was strong. But neither of them could match what Chuck did with his KX1 on 40 meters. I thought he was running his K2/100! Great signal from a tough place on the map for my wire in Oregon. Chuck sent me a note a few minutes ago. He has a number of Elecraft rigs: each of the KX1, K1, and K2 and a few repeats. Customers like this keep Elecraft in business :) But you cannot beat a good product and World Class customer support. Thanks! On 14050 kHz at 2258z: VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968 KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 W3MC - Mike - MD - K2 - 2125 K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398 AB8KJ - Chuck - MI - K2 - 2596 K2HYD - Ray - VA - KX1 - 608 On 7045 kHz at 0200z: VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968 Rapidly approaching the century mark!! :) K6PJV - Dale - CA - K2 - 5345 AB8KJ - Chuck - MI - KX1 - 58 K6DBG - Chris - CA - K2 - 3641 Welcome to ECN!! K2HYD - Ray - VA - KX1 - 608 W1TF - Ty - GA - K1 - 1423 KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798A bit weaker than on 20 m but still OK. VE6ITA - John - AB - K2 - 5384 You're on my list now John ;) W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 KL7V/5 - Sam - OK - K2 - 3158 Howdy Sam!! The weather reports I was getting from folks this evening were much better than the RSTs. Ken mentioned 77 but Sam must have had it hotter because he said it was like summer in OK. Even Rick had 50 degree temperatures and he lives in Alaska. Here, it was a very nice day but it did not break 70. Close but the wind off the Pacific kept it cool. Now that each side of our twenty acres has been clear cut the wind is getting through to ground level at the house. Sam, the cat, did not mind though, he and I sat outside while the hummingbirds zoomed past. I worked on my computer as he watched the birds remembering his youth and their tastiness. He is in retirement now; even the mice are not afraid of him. His eighteenth year may be his last but I'll see he is comfortable and able to live pleasantly. If there are any errors in the above two lists please send me an email. As ever I am thankful for all of the nice reports and contacts from across the continent. I have many friends here on ECN. I've only met a small number of you but I am sure I'd be welcome in a number of places. Hopefully I will get to Ozarkcon next year (I know two of you are planning on it! ) There are a few other hamfests I would like to attend also. I would rather have taken Pat to each of them since there is singing and dancing but that is just not possible. You would have not even have noticed I was there with her in attendance. Her voice and her dancing ability would have gotten your attention as well as her wit and pleasant personality while not otherwise occupied with performing. I am one to sit back and listen and watch. She jumped in with both feet and experienced life. It was a pleasure to have known her. Until next week please stay well and stay happy, 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Kenwood MC-60 schematic
Hi, I plan to use a Kenwood MC-60 mic on my new/old K2/100 (which is now in transit to it's new home) and am seeking a schematic for the mic that includes the preamp. I bought mine new with a TS-440 a long time ago and even then they did not supply he schematic. The manual guys offer a wiring diagram but I think that it's just the hook-up at the plug. I have discovered that there is 8VDC on pin 5 (or maybe 6) that apparently runs the internal preamp. The AF output does increase when the preamp is IN. I suppose I could reverse-engineer it but I prefer not to. Does anyone have the TS-60 mic schematic they could scan, loan or otherwise make available? Thanks, Stu W6CUX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Calibration using WWV
I've just completed soldering the K2, and have WWV at 10Mhz tuned in. The display shows it at +380 hz high. According to the manual, on page 60, the K2 can be calibrated using WWV. Unfortunately I do not see the procedure to do this. Is it published ? Could I have a link to a a procedure on how to do this ? Thank you in advance. Douglas Todd -- Yeah, it's sort of buried on the Elecraft Web site under Notes on Adjusting C22 to Put the K2 on Frequency. I'll send you a PDF directly. For any lurkers who are also curious, it's there on the web site somewhere under Construction Notes I think. The title says it all. It's not about calibrating the dial, it's all about putting the K2's internal clock on exactly 4.000 MHz (or as close as you can) so that when you run CAL PLL and CAL FIL, the K2 in CAL FCTR mode accurately measures the frequencies produced. Then the firmware can put the rig more accurately on frequency when you set the dial. The absolute accuracy is limited by a couple of factors. One is the stability of the oscillators themselves. While crystal oscillators are used for the BFO and the PLL reference oscillator, they still can drift slightly. Indeed, both of those oscillators are designed to be adjusted in frequency. The BFO frequency is adjusted to properly position the filter bandpass during CAL FIL. The PLL Reference oscillator (the local oscillator) is actually tuned over a range to provide the nice smooth K2 tuning within each 'step' in the PLL. Whenever you make an oscillator that is supposed to change frequency, it will naturally try to change frequency on its own. That is, it will drift, at least somewhat. Finally the logic circuits limit how accurate the dial calibration can be even if there was no drift at all in the oscillators. When you tune in a frequency, the firmware generates a certain digital value for the BFO and PLL Reference oscillators that puts them on the right frequencies (it's these values that are measured and stored during CAL PLL and CAL FIL). Logic circuits change these digital values into analog voltages that actually control the oscillator frequencies. There's a finite limit to the accuracy with which the conversion from the digital value to the analog voltage can take place. The residual error in the logic affects the dial accuracy. Because of all those factors, the dial accuracy will typically be somewhere within 30 Hz or so of the actual frequency, but may be off as much as 30 Hz or so. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
