[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening (almost good morning) I've been running so fast I almost did not get to this note! I've been working on circuits and software when I was not cutting and splitting firewood. I did take a break after sundown to look for Mercury. The sky is clear and it is near maximum elongation. I've never seen it from Oregon so I had to try. A definite maybe on the sighting. If I can find the same spot tomorrow and if the skies are as clear I'll be able to see movement. That will tell me whether I saw Mercury or not. I'll also take the compass and a pair of binoculars or even my telescope. There should be a discernable crescent shape which will make it obvious. Tomorrow we will celebrate our third anniversary and the beginning of our fourth year of the Elecraft CW Net. Hopefully the band will be in great shape so all of us can hear one another. I never imagined I would still be here after so long and get so many folks to chat with each week. I must have done something right. But, I cannot take all the credit (just most of the blame :) There have been quite a few others assisting either on the air or via emails with nudges, hints, compliments, and guidelines. I've learned a great deal about what it takes to run a net and I certain I will learn a great deal more in the time to come. If you can hear me tomorrow please check in with your comments. We talk about the weather, propagation (of course), and what ever else is happening to folks and their families. It is always good to hear from folks I've met as well as meeting new folks who listen and participate. I get a great number of emails from folks asking when and where and what to do plus a lot of comments and corrections afterward. It is fun for me and it appears to be fun to you all too. Can't wait to see what tomorrow will bring. Get on the air and see what your rig can do! Please join us: Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4pm PDT) 14050 kHz Monday 0200z (Sunday 7pm PDT) 7045 kHz Until tomorrow, Kevin. KD5ONS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2
Chas, Thanks for your comments. It's interesting to see that someone else has come to some very similar fairly similar basic conclusions as oneself. I have emailed RF Parts for the current price of the 4-1000a. At this stage, it may remain a drwing board exercise.. 73s, Wyn - Original Message - From: Charles Greene [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Wyn [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 3:46 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2 Wyn, A 4-1000A is the nearest new(er) design tube. I thought about how I could make the old guy put out something exciting when driven by my K2. I could swamp the input with a 200 ohm resistor and use a 4:1 balun and the impedance to the K2 would still be 50 ohms. .. The tube itself does not take any power in class AB1, but the input voltage needs to be so much for a given output. A 4:1 balun would increase the drive voltage by a factor of 4 times which would increase the output of the amp to 1600 watts if the drive remained the same, 800 watts with 10 watts drive.. From 20 watts to 1600 watts is a power gain of 19 dB which in my opinion is a little high. I would be more comfortable with a power gain of 16 dB, but you can try it. ... Those tubes are expensive. 73, Chas W1CG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Fw: static ground
In a message dated 6/10/06 11:36:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: As I understand the situation, the power company runs 240V lines to the house with a earth ground from the power line transformer and your house to make to split the 240V into two 120V circuits. Hopefully, these 120V circuits have balanced current flow and there is little current flow in the ground, or neutral lead. Not exactly. The power co. distribution transformer has a center tapped secondary. That center tap is the neutral, and it has the same current rating as the two 'hot' wires. It appears that the neutral (white) wire and the ground (green) wire eventually meet at the ground rod under your meter base. Sort of. They are supposed to be connected at the 'service entrance'. Usually, that's the panel with the main breaker. The neutral is also grounded at the transformer, but that's the power company's domain. The *only* place in your house that neutral should be connected to ground is at the service entrance. Assuming that the above is true and that I can verify that the white wire REALLY IS connected to neutral at the circuit breaker panel, can the green screw on the duplex outlet be corrected directly to the neutral at the socket, to ground both my anti-static mat and my Weller soldering station? I wouldn't do that. National Electrical Code specifically states not to do that. The neutral lead (known colloquially as the 'white wire') is not a grounding conductor. That's why a third wire (bare or green) is run - the bare wire is the ground wire. I find it odd that such a new house doesn't have ground wires. Are the boxes and faceplates metal? If so, there should be some form of grounding. One way to test is to make a test light of a low-wattage 110 volt bulb and two test leads, and see if the faceplate is grounded by connecting it between the hot prong and the metal faceplate of the outlet. (BE SURE TO TAKE ALL NECESSARY PRECAUTIONS!!) If the lamp works, the faceplate is already grounded. A lamp is used, rather than a meter, to prove that the ground can handle some current. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KIO2 programmers question: SCAN
Just been checking the KIO2 Programmers Reference (as used by the KPA100 AUX IP port too). It doesn't seem to be particularly easy to use the K2's scanning modes from the serial interface, and perhaps even impossible if I want to scan with AF ON? Presumably it's considered easier to do something like: FAn; [set VFO A freq] UP; [up 10Hz] UP; UP; ... or UP3;UP3;UP3; or whatever? This would work, would give me more feedback/control over exactly where the frequency is right now, but seems to be an awful lot of commands to achieve something the K2 can do itself. Any other ideas, and/or have I missed something? Thanks -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] After a number of decimal places, nobody gives a damn. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] CW Reverse Sideband Suppression Bad Using OP-1
On Jun 11, 2006, at 1:18 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anyone have any ideas on what to look for as the cause? What BFO setting are you using for CW-R? The setting you use for LSB and CW should be nearly the same, ditto for USB and CW-R. It sounds like the BFO setting for CW-R isn't correct. BTW, I don't use OP1 for the FL1 on my K2. I use the variable- bandpass filter set to 1.0 kHz. My filters are 1.0, 0.4, 0.16 and then OP1. I rarely use the 0.16 or the OP1. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly! -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] CW Reverse Sideband Suppression Bad Using OP-1
Frank, The BFO frequency listed in the KSB2 manual for CWr is no longer correct (it used to be correct before the SSB filter was widened). When the OP1 filter is used for CW reception, the BFO values will be quite close to those used for SSB - CW should be close the the LSB value and CWr should be close to the USB value. When you used Spectrogram, the display likely showed that the passband for the CWr filter crossed over the zero frequency line on the Spectrogram display - that is a sure sign that you will hear both sides of zero beat when using that filter. Re-adjust the BFO frequency to place the passband entirely on one side of zero - again, set the BFO frequency near the value used for USB (for CWr, increase the K2 display numbers or frequency - if decreased you will end up on the wrong sideband). In all cases but this one, the BFO frequencies shown in the SSB manual are close to the end values. The use of Spectrogram to further refine the BFO frequencies in order to shift the passband exactly into the desired audio range is a very desirable step. If the end values after using Spectrogram are different than those shown in the manual, the values obtained with Spectrogram are the correct ones to use - you may re-mark the values obtained with Spectrogram in your manual for future reference. If you need further information on the use of Spectrogram as a visual aid to properly positioning the filter passbands, take a look at Step 3 of the K2 Dial Calibration article on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com for information. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I purchased a one year old K2 #5116. Its equipped with the KSB2 SSB module. I noticed the filter selection for CW Wide wasn’t set up with OP-1 as per the instructions for the KSB-2.So I went into the Cal Fil and set all the BFO settings exactly as per the KSB2 manual to allow OP-1 to be used in place of FL-1 on CW Wide. Then I used the Spectrogram software to set the filters exactly as per the instructions. All the filters tuned up perfectly . All went well exact for one thing.On CW Reverse, using OP-1, I can hear both sides of zero beat on the CW signals --- at the same level. So with an S9 signal I have to tune through both sides of zero beat at S9 but only using CW Reverse. e CW Normal using OP-1 has prefect side band suppression with no sign of the other side of zero beat. I can tune CW signals while in either USB or LSB mode and it receives perfectly with no sign of the other side of zero beat. So SSB suppression on both USB and LSB appears to be ok. The only thing that’s not coming up right is while using OP-1 in place of FL-1 on CW Reverse. Everything else appears to be working as it should be in this K2. Anyone have any ideas on what to look for as the cause? Frank W7IS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Fw: static ground
While it is true that the white wire does connect to ground at the service entrance, that wire should not be considered a ground because it is a current carrying conductor. Figure the voltage drop in one ohm of wire carrying 15 amps - that will produce 15 volts - and that voltage is what makes the white wire 'not a ground'. Additionally, if the white conductor should open at some point between your connection point and the service panel, it can become 'hot' with full line voltage on it. With the sloppy way I have seen some electrical connections done, the possibility of an open circuit is quite high. Re-wiring your home may not be practical at this point (but it would be a wise step), but it would be practical to run a wire from critical places such as the ham shack or the workbench area to the service entrance ground as an added safety ground wire. If you use a separate ground for the shack, that ground should also connect back to the utility service entrance (connect your added safety ground wire to the shack ground). Remember that your safety is at stake anytime you plug an appliance with a 3 prong plug into one of your ungrounded sockets. There is no protection if the appliance should develop an internal fault. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- My house was built in 1978 before my area was annexed 5 years ago. Bottom line- No inspectors, no city code, I've got 3-wire plugs and 2-wire wiring on every plug I've checked. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: Portable Antenna for K2
I'm looking to take my K2 (10 watt) on holidays where we will be staying at a 3-story lodge high atop a bluff overlooking the ocean. The lodge is surrounded on 3 sides by some tall trees. The roof of the lodge has a table that I can operate from. I haven't seen the location first-hand, but I assume I can throw some wire from the roof into the trees. I have a 1 to 1 balun available and some lengths of disposable wire (about 50 - 75 ft) that I can devote to the project. My K2 has the KAT2 ATU built in. I don't want to spend any money on this, so a commercial antenna system is out. Any ideas on the best configuration to use? Should it be a simple long wire? Should I use the balun between the radio and the antenna? What about a ground system? Thanks Dave White [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2
Robert, I worked a guy the other day using 400 watts, but it is very unusual. I usually use my K2 /100 at 25 watts and my SDR-1000 at 35 watts. I made an error on the calculation of power output of the linear amplifier. If you double the input voltage, that is a multiply of 4 times the input power, as power = E^2 / R. That also produces 4 times the output of the linear amp. Bottom line, if I use an input swamping resistor of 100 ohms, I can drive the amp to 400 watts output with 5 watts. Useful addition for a plain ordinary K2. I haven't tried it, just calculations. 73, Chas, W1CG At 02:20 PM 6/10/2006, Robert Allbright wrote: Hi Chas Thank you for your interesting info. I was surprised that you mention using 400w on PSK31 I've never seen anyone mention using more than about 70w on PSK31 as high powers are not supposed to be necessary? Just my comment as when I experimentally tuned up my Acom 1010 amp for 400w output I had a very irate neighbour knocking on door! That's another story and I'm still alive hi! Since then I've been using 5 - 20 watts cw and psk31 and having fun 73 Robert G3RCE (from the future Islamic Republic of the UK - God help us!) - From: Charles Greene [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2 To: Wyn [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Wyn, I have an antique Hallicrafters HT33A with a PL172 tube, and I modified it so it will accept lower drive. Right now when I drive it with about 20 watts from my K2/100 in PSK31, I get about 400 watts out. That's a gain of 20 times, or 13 dB. The tube input is swamped with a 50 ohm resistor to help in its stability. The PL172 is a power pentode with 1000 watts plate dissipation, operated in the class AB1 mode (no control grid current) when amplifying SSB. On CW, it operates in the class AB2 mode, with a little higher efficiency, A 4-1000A is the nearest new(er) design tube. I thought about how I could make the old guy put out something exciting when driven by my K2. I could swamp the input with a 200 ohm resistor and use a 4:1 balun and the impedance to the K2 would still be 50 ohms. Actually, with the K2 automatic antenna tuner, you could tune the 400 ohms to 50 ohms. Same difference. The tube itself does not take any power in class AB1, but the input voltage needs to be so much for a given output. A 4:1 balun would increase the drive voltage by a factor of 4 times which would increase the output of the amp to 1600 watts if the drive remained the same, 800 watts with 10 watts drive, or 400 watts PSK31 with the K2 maxed out at 5 watts, which is respectful. From 20 watts to 1600 watts is a power gain of 19 dB which in my opinion is a little high. I would be more comfortable with a power gain of 16 dB, but you can try it. The point is, yes you can find a tube that will take a 10 watt transmitter to 800 watts or so, but be careful. Those tubes are expensive. 73, Chas W1CG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Portable Antenna for K2
From: Dave White [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sun Jun 11 07:30:54 CDT 2006 To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Portable Antenna for K2 Hi Dave, Not sure if you can apply this to your application, but I designed the KA3IXF Apartment Antenna, which will be appearing in a upcoming QST Article within the next couple of months. The folks at MFJ and B/W are also looking at it for possible commercial retail application. It is no more than one or two long cardboard tubes wrapped up in electrical tape. You then make or buy a limited space 10 - 40m G5RV and place the feedline in the middle of the tube and then wrap the ends around the tube, leaving about a inch or so between each turn. It looks sort of like a slinky antenna. Then you again wrap the whole thing in electrical tape. I have it sitting outside my apartment on the window sill. With my K2/100, I work DX on a regular basis, on 20m CW. If you can get up to the top floor and place this on a window sill this works well with the K2. Good Luck, Bill KA3IXF I'm looking to take my K2 (10 watt) on holidays where we will be staying at a 3-story lodge high atop a bluff overlooking the ocean. The lodge is surrounded on 3 sides by some tall trees. The roof of the lodge has a table that I can operate from. I haven't seen the location first-hand, but I assume I can throw some wire from the roof into the trees. I have a 1 to 1 balun available and some lengths of disposable wire (about 50 - 75 ft) that I can devote to the project. My K2 has the KAT2 ATU built in. I don't want to spend any money on this, so a commercial antenna system is out. Any ideas on the best configuration to use? Should it be a simple long wire? Should I use the balun between the radio and the antenna? What about a ground system? Thanks Dave White [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] OT: Portable Antenna for K2
Dave, I use a 44 foot center fed antenna successfully on all bands. It is good on 40 thru 10 and will do 80 meters in a pinch. Mine is constructed of #22 teflon insulated wire, and I have twisted 2 25 foot lengths of the same wire together to use as a parallel feedline. I use a 1:1 balun at the end of the feedline and then a short length of coax to the KAT2. The entire package is small and relatively lightweight. I get my wire from Jim (N2GO) who frequently has postings about wire availability on QRP-L I deploy my antenna in a variety of ways - as a dipole if I have 2 supports, as an inverted VEE if I have only one, or if the inverted VEE is not practical, I support one end of the antenna up as high as I can get it and operate it as a vertical with the other side of the antenna strung out wherever I can get it as a counterpoise. I usually carry along a 32 foot telescoping pole that aids me with the various configurations. I have not done any real comparison tests, nor have I made any EZNEC plots with the various configurations, but I have fun and I make contacts. I figure any attempts to optimize anything would be nullified or compromised in some way depending on the environment I find I have to deploy the antenna, so I just use it and go on with life. I save the optimization for the permanent home station antennas where I have control over many more parameters. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I'm looking to take my K2 (10 watt) on holidays where we will be staying at a 3-story lodge high atop a bluff overlooking the ocean. The lodge is surrounded on 3 sides by some tall trees. The roof of the lodge has a table that I can operate from. I haven't seen the location first-hand, but I assume I can throw some wire from the roof into the trees. I have a 1 to 1 balun available and some lengths of disposable wire (about 50 - 75 ft) that I can devote to the project. My K2 has the KAT2 ATU built in. I don't want to spend any money on this, so a commercial antenna system is out. Any ideas on the best configuration to use? Should it be a simple long wire? Should I use the balun between the radio and the antenna? What about a ground system? Thanks Dave White [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] F/S BIG BOX OF STUFF!
Folks, I'm moving across county and need to lighten the load before I go. So, I'm offering a Big Box-o-Stuff, $250 picked up in Fort Collins, CO. Please see: http://users.frii.com/rwc/fs/ for contents, some pics...etc. -- 73. Rod N0RC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: static ground
Hi Bob, Sounds like you live in Texas. Your theory is pretty much correct. I am a professional Engineer, and home inspector in Texas. The default way to deal with (update) a two wire circuit is to install a GFCI in the upstream outlet and slave the GFCI to the downstream outlets. However if there is not a ground available in the box, you must label the outlet No Equipment Ground. I haven't found the Lutron PDF file on their site that I use as reference, but I found an abbreviated explaination here: See: http://www.codecheck.com/250_50_commentary.html Its very possible that the center screw and the box may not be grounded. If it isn't do not connect the ground screw on the outlet to the neutral. The NEC code is quite confusing. If you need to determine a grounding method I can look it up, but I am sure its not going to be simple. If it’s the first floor it might be best to just drive a ground rod into the earth for your RF and static ground and not wire it directly to the electrical system. Regards, Steve, W2MY -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/360 - Release Date: 6/9/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated
John, With your work and reports like this, one can't help but think the wheels at Aptos have to be turning in the LiPo direction. ;) 73, Gil NN4CW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated
John, On 6/10/06, John Harper [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've finally gotten around to updating my batteries page to reflect my experiences with my new-found love, Lithium-Polymer batteries: http://www.ae5x.com/batts.htm Comments, suggestions experiences of other outdoor QRP ops are most welcome. Missing from your analysis are NiMH batteries, which i believe to be a viable alternative to LiPo cells. I don't have access to a West Mt. Battery Analyzer, so I can't offer a detailed analysis. Perhaps you can add that to make your analysis more complete. One advantage NiMH batts have are lower cost, OTH I suspect they weigh a bit more. An import consideration WRT to LiPo that you fail to mention is charging requirements. LiPo has had problems with charging, sometimes catastrophic. It is VERY important to follow the manufacturers recommendations and use the proper charging equipment. -- 73, Rod N0RC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated
Rod, I haven't tested NiMH batteries yet and probably won't since I don't own any and can't justify the expense in purchasing them + another charger since I already have a growing LiPo collection. However, if someone wanted to send me a NiMH or two, I'll gladly test it/them, post the results and pay for return postage - as long as they email me first and let me know. That way I don't get redundant batteries...;-) Regarding the charging of LiPos: you are correct in that a dedicated charger is needed and that the manufacturer's instructions should be followed. The links I posted at the bottom of my page were meant to address this (and the many other) aspects of LiPo batteries - I'm only interested in describing comparing their behavior in regards to my recent QRP operation and the previously-used alkalines. Google is available to those seeking more info than could possibly be contained on a single website. Thanks and 73, John Harper AE5X Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com - Original Message - From: Rod N0RC [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: John Harper [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: QRP-L [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 9:55 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated John, On 6/10/06, John Harper [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've finally gotten around to updating my batteries page to reflect my experiences with my new-found love, Lithium-Polymer batteries: http://www.ae5x.com/batts.htm Comments, suggestions experiences of other outdoor QRP ops are most welcome. Missing from your analysis are NiMH batteries, which i believe to be a viable alternative to LiPo cells. I don't have access to a West Mt. Battery Analyzer, so I can't offer a detailed analysis. Perhaps you can add that to make your analysis more complete. One advantage NiMH batts have are lower cost, OTH I suspect they weigh a bit more. An import consideration WRT to LiPo that you fail to mention is charging requirements. LiPo has had problems with charging, sometimes catastrophic. It is VERY important to follow the manufacturers recommendations and use the proper charging equipment. -- 73, Rod N0RC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] No Transmit SSB Audio
I sent the below a couple days ago and just found it bounced. No reason was give. I've reverified the email address and am trying again. Hi, I have no transmit SSB audio on my K2. CW works fine. From voltage readings on the KSB2 looks like the problem is in the area of U2 - MAX522, Q1 - PNA, U1 - 16F872 and U3 - SSM2165. I replaced Q1 with a 2NA, almost the same specs, and it did not help. Over the last 2-3 months I've had to turn mic gain and compression to full to get any transmit audio out. Now there is none. I'm using the Elecraft/Heil MD2 microphone. The out of nominal (+ - 10-15%) voltages are as follows. I'm using a Fluke 8600A multimeter. Only transmit voltages are listed below. U1-10 sb 3.1 is 2.6 (~15%) U1-16 sb 5.4 is 3.1 (~30%) U1-17 sb 5.6 is 4.2 (~40%) U1-28 sb 2.4 is 5.4 (~220%) U2-1 sb 5.6 is 4.2 (~25%) U2-5 sb 0.6 is 1.6 (~280%) U2-8 sb 5.4 is 3.1 (~90%) U-3 sb 0.8-1.2 is 0.0 (~?%) The discrepancy on U3 appears to be a function of the setting of the audio compressor. But, could be otherwise. The radio is about 15 months old and I'm the original owner. I've been solder certified by the Air Force and NASA and inspected medical subassemblies for several years so there is a possibility I know my way around soldering. Just the same I've reflowed all joints and reverified all components on the KSB2. I've also rechecked all menu setting and all are fine. I'm using a gel cell battery rated at 8AH for power. It is reading 12.6 volts by the K2 meter obtained by tapping display. The battery will deliver several amps with only 0.2 VDC drop in voltage. Any thoughts helps or other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim, AB0UK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: Portable Antenna for K2
Re: KA3IXF Antenna? Bill, KA3IXF Can you give some more details, of how us K2 owners can build this antenna NOW? Even as snowbirds (NY, FL) I'm suffering from living in restricted covenants communities - where stealth antennas may be my only hope. (may have to move to solve this problem!) Can you give some info, dimensions and construction info, on this KA3IXF Antenna? Thanks, Fred N3CSY K2 # 5422 6/11 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2
Eimac introduced the 8166/4-1000A in 1945 as part of its postwar line of glass-envelope, radial beam tetrodes which also included the 4-65A, 4-125A, and 4-250A; and later in 1947, the 4-400A, essentially a 4-240A upgraded with a finned anode (plate) radiator. External anode, forced-air cooled tetrodes and pentodes were later developments. Penta Labs developed the 8295/PL-172 pentode--a later version, the 8295A had ceramic instead of glass insulators, but the same 1000W plate dissipation rating. Penta, Eimac, and others manufactured this tube. Comparable EIMAC external anode tubes were the 8168/4CX-1000A radial beam tetrode and the 4CX-1500B, both specially designed for AB1 linear amplifier service. The Russian 4CX-800 and 4CX-1600 tetrodes marked under Svetlana and other brand names are as far as I know the most recent designs, incorporated striped cathode structure to reduce grid interception and differential cathode-to-anode radius to reduce secondary emission. William L. Tipton, Jr. 1332 Pinewood Road Jacksonville Beach, FL 32250-2941 904-241-0134 __ From: Wyn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net, Charles Greene [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2 Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 15:51:52 +0800 Chas, Thanks for your comments. It's interesting to see that someone else has come to some very similar fairly similar basic conclusions as oneself. I have emailed RF Parts for the current price of the 4-1000a. At this stage, it may remain a drwing board exercise.. 73s, Wyn - Original Message - From: Charles Greene [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Wyn [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 3:46 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2 Wyn, A 4-1000A is the nearest new(er) design tube. I thought about how I could make the old guy put out something exciting when driven by my K2. I could swamp the input with a 200 ohm resistor and use a 4:1 balun and the impedance to the K2 would still be 50 ohms. .. The tube itself does not take any power in class AB1, but the input voltage needs to be so much for a given output. A 4:1 balun would increase the drive voltage by a factor of 4 times which would increase the output of the amp to 1600 watts if the drive remained the same, 800 watts with 10 watts drive.. From 20 watts to 1600 watts is a power gain of 19 dB which in my opinion is a little high. I would be more comfortable with a power gain of 16 dB, but you can try it. ... Those tubes are expensive. 73, Chas W1CG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Frequency Display Problem
Help! Yesterday, the frequency display on my K2 #5113 stopped functioning properly. When I turned off the K2 I was on 14185.09. When I turned the K2 back on later in the day, it read 14063. Now, every time I turn the radio on, I see 14063 on 20M no matter what frequency I was on when I turned it off. Same problem on every other band, no matter what frequency I was on when I turned off the radio, it turns onto a particular frequency when I turn it back on, for example, 18143.90 on 17, 7241.09 on 40. Any ideas on how to fix this? Jonathan Gottlieb WA3WDK K2 #5113 CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail is confidential, may be legally privileged, and is intended only for the use of the party named above. If the reader of this is not the intended recipient, you are advised that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this e-mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify us by telephone at 612.335.1500 and destroy this e-mail. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [QRP-L] K2 Frequency Display Problem
Go to the manual in the back on pages 3 4 and do some voltage measurements etc. - - - - - - - - - - - - W5KDJ - Wayne TF2WJN * 1965-67 SV0WWW * 1971-73 Antarctica MM/QRP * 2004-05 3DA0KDJ * 2005 LoTW * eQSL.cc TDXS 164 - - - - - - - - - - - - - Original Message - From: Gottlieb, Jonathan [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 10:08 AM Subject: [QRP-L] K2 Frequency Display Problem Help! Yesterday, the frequency display on my K2 #5113 stopped functioning properly. When I turned off the K2 I was on 14185.09. When I turned the K2 back on later in the day, it read 14063. Now, every time I turn the radio on, I see 14063 on 20M no matter what frequency I was on when I turned it off. Same problem on every other band, no matter what frequency I was on when I turned off the radio, it turns onto a particular frequency when I turn it back on, for example, 18143.90 on 17, 7241.09 on 40. Any ideas on how to fix this? Jonathan Gottlieb WA3WDK K2 #5113 CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail is confidential, may be legally privileged, and is intended only for the use of the party named above. If the reader of this is not the intended recipient, you are advised that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this e-mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify us by telephone at 612.335.1500 and destroy this e-mail. __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/360 - Release Date: 6/9/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/360 - Release Date: 6/9/2006 __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Elecraft] 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles
Hi Folks: A while back, several folks posted links to a number of telescoping fiberglas pole sites. I've visited the Jackite site. They are offering their 32' poles (black or orange) for $54. I thought someone had found similar poles for a bit less than the Jackite price, however I may be in error here. The Jackite poles look quite good and appear to be reinforced in the placed which would normally require such reinforcement. I have several 30' 'Hot Poles' from an electric company. They failed the semi-annual HV QC tests, but will work exceptionally well for general antenna support use (particularly during FD), BUT they're a bit on the heavy side and a bit larger in diameter than I'd like to have if I was gonna take the pole on a trip in the car. Something slightly smaller / lighter is in order for such trips. If you have a link to other ECONOMICAL sources of heavy-duty telescoping fiberglas poles, please either post them to the reflector (preferred) or drop a note to me direct. Hope to order something yet this coming week. Thansk, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Fw: static ground
That's also why the anti-static ground has (must have!) a 1-megohm resistor in series with it. That way a dangerous amount of current isn't going to flow in any case while the resistance is still low enough to continuously dissipate any static charges that are developed. It doesn't matter whether you accidentally come in contact with the hot side of a mains lead or the positive side of some other power source, the resistor should keep the current down to safe levels. So, if you have nothing else, any connection to the earth will work either as a terminal for the anti static pad/strap with their internal 1 meg resistors or as a point you can touch briefly (while not touching anything else) to dissipate any charge on your body just before you handle a static sensitive part. Don makes a good point about running a ground wire through the house, at least to the critical outlets near the ham shack. I'd include, as a minimum, kitchen and bath outlets as well so they can be equipped with ground-fault interrupters. I 'grew up' in the age of exposed AC/DC equipment that had one side of the metal case connected to the mains, and I recall many instances of touching a panel and noting the slight tingle that warned me that I was touching the hot side of the mains line because the plug was in backwards. That was a warning because the next metal panel a few inches away might be grounded and touching both of them at once would put me across the mains power! Millions of people survived such wiring without problem, but many did die. Don't be one of them. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Fw: static ground
Bob: Your old house wiring may be BX, meaning it is wire in a spiral armored casing, typically made of aluminum. While not ideal, you may be able to gain an independent ground using this casing. It would require (a) that the casing be continuous from receptacle to receptacle, and (b) that it be well clamped with a BX connector to each receptacle. In this case, you can add 3-prong plugs with ground wires firmly connected (under a screw head, for example) to the receptacle. Once you do this, you can get a tester plug from you local jobber or hardware that can be used to determine whether all is well. These tester plugs indicate with lights whether the polarity is correct, the common is closed, and the ground exists. best wishes, dave belsley, w1euy On Jun 11, 2006, at 8:24 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: While it is true that the white wire does connect to ground at the service entrance, that wire should not be considered a ground because it is a current carrying conductor. Figure the voltage drop in one ohm of wire carrying 15 amps - that will produce 15 volts - and that voltage is what makes the white wire 'not a ground'. Additionally, if the white conductor should open at some point between your connection point and the service panel, it can become 'hot' with full line voltage on it. With the sloppy way I have seen some electrical connections done, the possibility of an open circuit is quite high. Re-wiring your home may not be practical at this point (but it would be a wise step), but it would be practical to run a wire from critical places such as the ham shack or the workbench area to the service entrance ground as an added safety ground wire. If you use a separate ground for the shack, that ground should also connect back to the utility service entrance (connect your added safety ground wire to the shack ground). Remember that your safety is at stake anytime you plug an appliance with a 3 prong plug into one of your ungrounded sockets. There is no protection if the appliance should develop an internal fault. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- My house was built in 1978 before my area was annexed 5 years ago. Bottom line- No inspectors, no city code, I've got 3-wire plugs and 2-wire wiring on every plug I've checked. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - david a. belsley professor of economics ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Frequency Display Problem
Gottlieb, Jonathan wrote: Help! Yesterday, the frequency display on my K2 #5113 stopped functioning properly. When I turned off the K2 I was on 14185.09. When I turned the K2 back on later in the day, it read 14063. Now, every time I turn the radio on, I see 14063 on 20M no matter what frequency I was on when I turned it off. Same problem on every other band, no matter what frequency I was on when I turned off the radio, it turns onto a particular frequency when I turn it back on, for example, 18143.90 on 17, 7241.09 on 40. Any ideas on how to fix this? The K2 manual says: Backup Timer While you're moving the VFO, a 30-second data backup timer is being continuously re-started. Once you have completely stopped tuning the VFO for at least 30 seconds, the K2 will then save your current operating frequency in EEPROM. As long as you stay on a particular frequency, no further updates will be done. ... so the simple answer is wait 30 seconds without tuning, you impatient so-and-so :-) -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] Everything put together falls apart sooner or later. -- Simon's Law ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: static ground
Hi Ron and all, Actually the name GFCI is a bit misleading I think. You don't need a ground for a GFCI to work. That's why they recommend their use in upgrading two wire systems. The GFCI senses a current difference between the neutral and the hot wire. If the difference is greater than 5 milliamps, the GFCI is supposed to trip and disable the circuit. Thus if you get a shock and the GFCI trips you were in essence the ground fault in Ground Fault Circuit Interupter. Having a third wire as ground is nice to have, but it seems that putting a GFCI in a two wire circuit greatly increases the safety of the circuit. Steve, W2MY -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire Don makes a good point about running a ground wire through the house, at least to the critical outlets near the ham shack. I'd include, as a minimum, kitchen and bath outlets as well so they can be equipped with ground-fault interrupters. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/360 - Release Date: 6/9/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Jackite 31' Poles - Bought
Just went to www.5stores.com and ordered two (2) 31' Jackite Orange Fiberglas poles for $42.95 each, plus $13.25 UPS Ground shipping. Not a bad price. Thanks to all for your prompt replies. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] static ground -the conclusion
Thanks to all for the replies, particularly for a Sunday morning. The basic conclusion is THAT'S NOT A GOOD IDEA!, with a few minor variations. I wasn't comfortable with it either. My shack workshop are in an out building that was wired 3 years ago and was done right. All I needed was a ground rod for rigs and my tower I was done. I was considering moving my KX1 building area into my computer room, closer to the bathroom, at least for the summer. BX cable was mentioned- no BX cable here. And yes I do live in Texas. My basic concern is grounding of my Weller soldering station, since I do not have a grounded 3-wire outlet. Looks like there is a trip to the attic to run a ground wire for rigs my soldering station in my future. (I think it will about 3 AM before Mother Nature turns on the oven up there.) My house was built in 1978 before my area was annexed 5 years ago. Bottom line- No inspectors, no city code, I've got 3-wire plugs and 2-wire wiring on every plug I've checked. As I understand the situation, the power company runs 240V lines to the house with a earth ground from the power line transformer and your house to make to split the 240V into two 120V circuits. Hopefully, these 120V circuits have balanced current flow and there is little current flow in the ground, or neutral lead. It appears that the neutral (white) wire and the ground (green) wire eventually meet at the ground rod under your meter base. Assuming that the above is true and that I can verify that the white wire REALLY IS connected to neutral at the circuit breaker panel, can the green screw on the duplex outlet be corrected directly to the neutral at the socket, to ground both my anti-static mat and my Weller soldering station? All opinions welcome. (If this theory is a loser, then I've got a trip through two walls, a closet ceiling, and a long attic to run a station ground that I need anyway. It was almost 100 north of Dallas today and you could probably roast a thanksgiving turkey in my attic. I would prefer that attic trip be in late fall if possible..) NJ5A snip I saw a post a few days ago about this. I have a table mat with snap on alligator clip. I do not have unpainted metal ground. How exactly do I do this using a resistor and 3 prong plug ?? 73 de Jesse W6JMM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] re: K1 frequency range
If I exchange C2 with C2a to expand frequency coverage to c. 150 khz will I need to re-peak all the filters and re-calibrate the receiver? Thanks. P.S.: the backlight kit is a wonderful addition to the K1. Bob N5JYW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT Bleeder Resistor
I sent this once before but I never saw it show up, sorry if it's a dupe. I have been looking at the June 2006 QST article Homebrew Solid-state 600 W HF Amplifier. I'm gathering the parts for the power supply but have a question concerning the bleeder resistors. The author, K0GKD, used four 22ohm 75W resistors he had in his junk box in a series/parallel configuration. In addition to providing a discharge path to ground for the caps, the bleeder resistor provides a measure of voltage regulation as well and this is where my question comes from. What would be the optimum value for the resistors? I've searched the net and various handbooks but haven't found an answer. I have (4) 35000uF 80V caps available for the supply. Thanks for you input. Bob ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] potential antenna coil forms ?
Greetings, In the course of my occupation I have aquired a bunch of heavy cardboard tubes. These are all 3-1/4 external diameter and approx 1/8 to 3/16 wall thickness. Before sending them to the cardboard recycling dump I though of offering them to the antenna coil experimenters out there. Some of them have what appears to be a plastic coating and would likely be somewhat weather resistant, but even the plain ones could be spray on plastic (or brushed on epoxy or poly resin?) coated. A list how many available and the lengths follows (the plastic coated ones identified with letter P) : (2) 32-3/4 P (2) 24-1/2 (3) 18-3/4 P (4) 18-3/4 (3) 16-1/2 (6) 15 P (5) 14-1/4 (1) 12-3/4 P (3) 12-1/4 (2) 10-1/2 I'm offering these free, first come first served, but you pay the postage, or you can pick them up if you're local. I think they can be sent parcel post without any wrappingI'll just stick a mailing label on them and send them out. When it arrives just look at the postage sticker and reimburse me that amount. Any takers? If so, email me (off list) your name mailing address. 72 Regards, Rich k2cpe K2 #1102 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Run that by me one more time:
OK K2 gurus, help me satisfy my curiosity. I'm about to install the KAT2 in a rig that has revision 1.04D firmware. The KAT2 manual says this tuner will work with 1.04 but recommends 1.05 or better to to take full advantage of the tuners features. Simple question: Will the KAT2 operate satisfactory using 1.04D ?? What features will be gained by upgrading the firmware ?? Thanks gang: 72 Jerry N0JRN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KX1 13563 IS ALIVE!!
Ken, one or two more watts, not worth the effort. I won't increase your signal enough to really matter. Bill -Original Message- AND I AM IN FLORIDA!!! KX! works but only puts out 3w on 40... So need to figure out how to rev up a notch or two... Anyway it works!! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Portable Antenna for K2
Bill KA3IXF wrote on Sunday, June 11, 2006 2:00 PM Not sure if you can apply this to your application, but I designed the KA3IXF Apartment Antenna, which will be appearing in a upcoming QST Article within the next couple of months. The folks at MFJ and B/W are also looking at it for possible commercial retail application. It is no more than one or two long cardboard tubes wrapped up in electrical tape. You then make or buy a limited space 10 - 40m G5RV and place the feedline in the middle of the tube and then wrap the ends around the tube, leaving about a inch or so between each turn. It looks sort of like a slinky antenna. Then you again wrap the whole thing in electrical tape. I have it sitting outside my apartment on the window sill. With my K2/100, I work DX on a regular basis, on 20m CW. If you can get up to the top floor and place this on a window sill this works well with the K2. Good Luck, Bill KA3IXF Hi Bill, When camping or during Field Day it should be possible to use two of your gizmos to make a short boom yagi or phased array. My first 40m beam in VE2 land had 22ft lengths of bamboo on which the normal mode helices were wound - worked like a charm once tuned. Good luck with the commercial folk. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] K2 Frequency Display Problem
Just change bands before turning off K2. The information is immediately stored in the EEPROM without waiting for the 30 second timer. 73 Elliott WA6TLA - Original Message - From: Nick Waterman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Gottlieb, Jonathan [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 10:11 AM Subject: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] K2 Frequency Display Problem Gottlieb, Jonathan wrote: Help! Yesterday, the frequency display on my K2 #5113 stopped functioning properly. When I turned off the K2 I was on 14185.09. When I turned the K2 back on later in the day, it read 14063. Now, every time I turn the radio on, I see 14063 on 20M no matter what frequency I was on when I turned it off. Same problem on every other band, no matter what frequency I was on when I turned off the radio, it turns onto a particular frequency when I turn it back on, for example, 18143.90 on 17, 7241.09 on 40. Any ideas on how to fix this? The K2 manual says: Backup Timer While you're moving the VFO, a 30-second data backup timer is being continuously re-started. Once you have completely stopped tuning the VFO for at least 30 seconds, the K2 will then save your current operating frequency in EEPROM. As long as you stay on a particular frequency, no further updates will be done. ... so the simple answer is wait 30 seconds without tuning, you impatient so-and-so :-) -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] Everything put together falls apart sooner or later. -- Simon's Law __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Portable Antenna for K2
From: Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sun Jun 11 14:23:52 CDT 2006 To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Portable Antenna for K2 Just a brief pitch on the commercial version. I had the idea of a pvc or hard plastic model that would be expandable whereas, it could be pulled out to fit snug in between any window sill application. It would also come in many colors, ie: red for brick builing, where it would be unseen. As there are many hams in apartment buildings with no balcony or cannot have a antenna, vertical type sticking out of the window, this seems like a great soloution. Guess I will wait and see. Bill KA3IXF Bill KA3IXF wrote on Sunday, June 11, 2006 2:00 PM Not sure if you can apply this to your application, but I designed the KA3IXF Apartment Antenna, which will be appearing in a upcoming QST Article within the next couple of months. The folks at MFJ and B/W are also looking at it for possible commercial retail application. It is no more than one or two long cardboard tubes wrapped up in electrical tape. You then make or buy a limited space 10 - 40m G5RV and place the feedline in the middle of the tube and then wrap the ends around the tube, leaving about a inch or so between each turn. It looks sort of like a slinky antenna. Then you again wrap the whole thing in electrical tape. I have it sitting outside my apartment on the window sill. With my K2/100, I work DX on a regular basis, on 20m CW. If you can get up to the top floor and place this on a window sill this works well with the K2. Good Luck, Bill KA3IXF Hi Bill, When camping or during Field Day it should be possible to use two of your gizmos to make a short boom yagi or phased array. My first 40m beam in VE2 land had 22ft lengths of bamboo on which the normal mode helices were wound - worked like a charm once tuned. Good luck with the commercial folk. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] CW Reverse Sideband Suppression Bad Using OP-1 Fixed
Thanks for all the suggestions on figuring out why I was hearing the other side of zero beat in CW Reverse on OP-1 filter. The root cause of the problem was I was using the BFO freqs as specified in the KSB2 instruction manual. Which were never upgraded when they changed to 2.5khz OP-1 filter. I corrected the BFO freq on CW Reverse to match the USB BFO freq for OP-1 and now its just fine. Although with an S9 signal there is still a tiny bit of signal on the other side of zero beat using OP-1. I spent a lot of time the last two days experimenting with different CW side tone freqs. I finally settled on a sidetone of 400hz due it had less ringing while using AF-2 narrow band receive filter. On weak signal DX, its easier to pick the signal out of the noise with the audio filter set to 400hz, at least for my ears. I used CW filters of 2.5khz, 1.2khz, 700hz, 300hz. Setting them using the Spectogram software and then did a final minor tweaking by placing an audio freq counter on the headphone jack and adjusted each filter for 400hz receive tone on both CW normal and CW reverse. Then I fine tuned the SSB filters of 2.5, 2.2, 1.8 and 1.4khz by listening to a SSB receive signal while making minor tweaking of Cal Fil BFO on each, until the audio sounded the best on each filter.That really made this K2 come to life. Its a real pleasure to use. Although it was a steep learning process trying to figure it all out. Thanks again for all the help from those on the forum. Last week I built the XG-2 three band signal generator. XG-2 is one great piece of test gear. Highly recommended. I also just finished rebuilding and fine tuning a 1916 Vibroplex Model X speed key. You can see the picture of the key sitting in front of the K2 by looking up my call sign on QRZ.COMFrank W7IS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles
Tom and all, I don't know about the price comparison, but another source is The Mast Company - http://www.tmastco.com/ . 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- A while back, several folks posted links to a number of telescoping fiberglas pole sites. I've visited the Jackite site. They are offering their 32' poles (black or orange) for $54. I thought someone had found similar poles for a bit less than the Jackite price, however I may be in error here. The Jackite poles look quite good and appear to be reinforced in the placed which would normally require such reinforcement. I have several 30' 'Hot Poles' from an electric company. They failed the semi-annual HV QC tests, but will work exceptionally well for general antenna support use (particularly during FD), BUT they're a bit on the heavy side and a bit larger in diameter than I'd like to have if I was gonna take the pole on a trip in the car. Something slightly smaller / lighter is in order for such trips. If you have a link to other ECONOMICAL sources of heavy-duty telescoping fiberglas poles, please either post them to the reflector (preferred) or drop a note to me direct. Hope to order something yet this coming week. Thansk, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Run that by me one more time:
It has been a long time, and my memory may be fuzzy, but I recall that the major firmware change to support the KAT2 was the change the automatically throttled the power back to 2 watts when pressing TUNE. Keeping the power lower extends the life of the relays by minimizing the current that they have to switch while searching for a match. That may be the difference between level 1.04 and 1.05, but I can't say for certain. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- OK K2 gurus, help me satisfy my curiosity. I'm about to install the KAT2 in a rig that has revision 1.04D firmware. The KAT2 manual says this tuner will work with 1.04 but recommends 1.05 or better to to take full advantage of the tuners features. Simple question: Will the KAT2 operate satisfactory using 1.04D ?? What features will be gained by upgrading the firmware ?? Thanks gang: 72 Jerry N0JRN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/360 - Release Date: 6/9/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] OT Bleeder Resistor
Bob, I am not an expert in bleeder resistors but here is a way to think of what you need from first principles. The purpose of the bleeder resistor in power supplies is to discharge the filter capacitors to a safe level in a reasonable amount of time after turning the supply off. The decaying voltage of the supply after hitting the off switch will be equal to: V(t) = Vo * e(-t/RC), where Vo is the power supply voltage when operating, t is time in seconds since hitting the off switch, R is the bleeder resistor in Ohms and C is the filter capacitor in Farads. You didn't tell us what the supply voltage is and how you are going to connect the capacitors (all series, 320 v supply? all parallel, 80 volt supply?) Any way they are configured, if each 35,000 uF capacitor is charged to the maximum of 80 volts a 390 ohm resistor across the terminals of each capacitor will discharge each one to less than one volt (arbitrary safe level) in 60 seconds. Each resistor will draw 205 ma current during normal operation and each resistor will need to safely dissipate a little over 16 watts. If you are willing to live with 2 minutes (120 seconds) until voltage drops to under a volt then the resistance across each capacitor can be 780 ohms with dissipation of just over 8 watts. At five minutes R = 1950 ohms, dissipation of each is 3.3 watts. As you noted, the bleeders will also provide a continuous load to the power supply helping with regulation. The four 22 ohm resistors in your article would work but you would waste a lot of electrons to heat. If you did try to put one 22 ohm resistor across one 80 volt cap charged to 80 volts you will draw over 3.6 amps in the bleeder and the resistor would need to dissipate just over 290 watts (each resistor) before your amplifier gets any power. There is something missing in the configuration in the article before it makes sense. Mike Scott AE6WA Tarzana, CA (near LA) Elecraft KX1 4-Watts -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Miller Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 11:14 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] OT Bleeder Resistor I sent this once before but I never saw it show up, sorry if it's a dupe. I have been looking at the June 2006 QST article Homebrew Solid-state 600 W HF Amplifier. I'm gathering the parts for the power supply but have a question concerning the bleeder resistors. The author, K0GKD, used four 22ohm 75W resistors he had in his junk box in a series/parallel configuration. In addition to providing a discharge path to ground for the caps, the bleeder resistor provides a measure of voltage regulation as well and this is where my question comes from. What would be the optimum value for the resistors? I've searched the net and various handbooks but haven't found an answer. I have (4) 35000uF 80V caps available for the supply. Thanks for you input. Bob ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] CW Reverse Sideband Suppression Bad Using OP-1 Fixed
G'day, | due it had less ringing while using AF-2 narrow band receive filter. There are alternate component values for the AF-2 filter to reduce the ringing. Developed by John Grebenkemper KI6WX Modifications to the KAF2 frequency response. I'm not sure where I got it from, it might be on the Elecraft web site. It's only a 68KB pdf so I could send it direct if you can't find it. Regards, Mike VP8NO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA 100 T4
I just installed T4 and have 2 holes left over---5 6. No mention in the manual about what to do with them. According to the roadmap they connect the main road out of town with a turn through T4. They are oversize holes so I presume they want a hefty wire. Inquiring minds need to know before they go any further (farther?). Bob Baxter aa7eq ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA 100 T4
Patience! Check page 31. 73, Ken K3IU -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 7:44 PM To: Elecraft Discussion List Subject: [Elecraft] KPA 100 T4 I just installed T4 and have 2 holes left over---5 6. No mention in the manual about what to do with them. According to the roadmap they connect the main road out of town with a turn through T4. They are oversize holes so I presume they want a hefty wire. Inquiring minds need to know before they go any further (farther?). Bob Baxter aa7eq ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] IRC realtime chat.
I have been enjoying real time conversations on the Elecraft chat on IRC. To get there the irc server is irc.worldirc.org and the channel is #Elecraft When I am not home I still keep my irc software running. When I get home can I scroll through what has been said during the day. If anyone has the 144Mhz transverter I would be keen to chat. Its my next project under consideration. Regards Dave VK2NA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles
Also consider the DK9SQ telescoping 33 ft mast, available from Kanga U.S. http://www.bright.net/~kanga/kanga/dk9sq/mast.htm 73, Ken Alexander VE3HLS --- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Tom and all, I don't know about the price comparison, but another source is The Mast Company - http://www.tmastco.com/ . 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- A while back, several folks posted links to a number of telescoping fiberglas pole sites. I've visited the Jackite site. They are offering their 32' poles (black or orange) for $54. I thought someone had found similar poles for a bit less than the Jackite price, however I may be in error here. The Jackite poles look quite good and appear to be reinforced in the placed which would normally require such reinforcement. I have several 30' 'Hot Poles' from an electric company. They failed the semi-annual HV QC tests, but will work exceptionally well for general antenna support use (particularly during FD), BUT they're a bit on the heavy side and a bit larger in diameter than I'd like to have if I was gonna take the pole on a trip in the car. Something slightly smaller / lighter is in order for such trips. If you have a link to other ECONOMICAL sources of heavy-duty telescoping fiberglas poles, please either post them to the reflector (preferred) or drop a note to me direct. Hope to order something yet this coming week. Thansk, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem
Hello everyone. I almost made it to the finish line with my K2. I'm encountering a problem with the KPA100 SWR Bridge Null Adjustment (C1). I have everything hooked up correctly as far as I can determine. I set the power knob for 5.0 W. Enter tune mode and adjust C1 to get 1.0-1 SWR on the K2 display. The best I can achieve is 3.6w and 3.4-1 SWR. When the display reads this value my SX-200 power meter indicates about 18 watts out!! Also some of the voltages read a little high: D13 cathode should be 90 to 150v : reads 158v. U4 (MAX 1406) pin 8 should be -5 to -25v : reads -28v Test Equipment Used: DL-1 and MFJ dummy loads. SX-200 power meter. I have given the board a close visual inspection and nothing looks bad. The red and green leads on T4 go to the correct pads. Any ideas? Thanks very much. Harvey KN6VPNo virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/361 - Release Date: 6/11/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] No Transmit SSB Audio
Jim, Before being concerned about the DC voltages at U1 and U2, I would suggest concentrating on the BFO injection and the balanced modulator first. The digital signals from U1 and U2 will only occur when the conditions are correct and a variation from the voltages stated in the manual is not necessarily a cause for immediate alarm - check the audio and RF signal paths first. Use a 'scope (with a 10X probe) or an RF Probe and check the BFO path from pin 12 of P1 to pin 6 of U5. You should have a good BFO signal to U5 pin 6. I would expect somewhere between .025 and .07 volts RMS for proper operation. If you do not have adequate BFO signal at U5 pin 6, look carefully at Q1 and Q2 and their associated components. The next place to check for an AC signal (but it will be audio not RF) is at the output of the Speech compressor U3 pin 7. I am guessing here, but I should think something on the order of 200 mV would be a good level. A 'scope is almost a necessity here to view voice peaks, but if you have an audio generator, you may be able to read the level with an audio frequency AC voltmeter. Before you begin this hunt, be certain the 5.6k resistor for your MD2 mic is properly soldered in place on the mic jack (check its value with the mic unplugged). Try another mic if you can or check your mic on another K2 - it could be that your mic element was going bad on you and there is nothing wrong with the K2. In other words, overlook nothing, particularly the simple things. If you have a cheap computer mic laying around, you can use that to verify the mic operation - hook the AF line (tip of the plug) to mic jack pin 1 and the ground to pin 7 then use the dot paddle for a PTT button. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi, I have no transmit SSB audio on my K2. CW works fine. From voltage readings on the KSB2 looks like the problem is in the area of U2 - MAX522, Q1 - PNA, U1 - 16F872 and U3 - SSM2165. I replaced Q1 with a 2NA, almost the same specs, and it did not help. Over the last 2-3 months I've had to turn mic gain and compression to full to get any transmit audio out. Now there is none. I'm using the Elecraft/Heil MD2 microphone. The out of nominal (+ - 10-15%) voltages are as follows. I'm using a Fluke 8600A multimeter. Only transmit voltages are listed below. U1-10 sb 3.1 is 2.6 (~15%) U1-16 sb 5.4 is 3.1 (~30%) U1-17 sb 5.6 is 4.2 (~40%) U1-28 sb 2.4 is 5.4 (~220%) U2-1 sb 5.6 is 4.2 (~25%) U2-5 sb 0.6 is 1.6 (~280%) U2-8 sb 5.4 is 3.1 (~90%) U-3 sb 0.8-1.2 is 0.0 (~?%) The discrepancy on U3 appears to be a function of the setting of the audio compressor. But, could be otherwise. The radio is about 15 months old and I'm the original owner. I've been solder certified by the Air Force and NASA and inspected medical subassemblies for several years so there is a possibility I know my way around soldering. Just the same I've reflowed all joints and reverified all components on the KSB2. I've also rechecked all menu setting and all are fine. I'm using a gel cell battery rated at 8AH for power. It is reading 12.6 volts by the K2 meter obtained by tapping display. The battery will deliver several amps with only 0.2 VDC drop in voltage. Any thoughts helps or other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim, AB0UK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/360 - Release Date: 6/9/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Mac Logger DX, K2 and Intel/Mac...
On Jun 11, 2006, at 7:23 PM, Phil Townsend wrote: I would like to know what adapter to use to connect my iMac (Intel Mac) to the K2... USB to the serial port on the K2 So what works best?? Phil K2# 01264 I haven't tried it myself but folks on the [EMAIL PROTECTED] list consistently recommend Keyspan USB-Serial adapters for both PPC and Intel Macs. 73 - Bob, N7XY K2 #3273 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA 100 T4
Thanks, you guys pull me out every time. Thinking always gets me in trouble. Bob aa7eq - Original Message - From: Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 8:56 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA 100 T4 Hi Bob: T4-5 and T4-6 will eventually be the single-turn link of the RF output lead going from the PC board to the SO-239. See pg. 29, Fig 22-A2. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for June 11th 12th, 2006
Good Evening, We had a great turn out tonight for the 3rd Anniversary. Many kind words were sent and we're hoping for another three years. By then the sunspots will allow us to reach across each ocean again. We'll have real difficulties trying to keep this under control :) But we will try and will have fun doing so. I am getting peppered with emails of congratulations too. Thanks folks, I am still learning and hope one day to maybe get to NCS 4th class! Time in rank is everything ;) Well that and an effort to keep improving. I've had a lot of help from so many people it would be hard to list them all without missing so many I'd be apologizing until next year! I'll just thank you all for putting up with me and helping me improve. It is thoughtful of you to relay in a station as Jay did this evening. I just could not drag K4BEH out of the noise. Then, just as soon as I got the call, Pat came back loud and clear. Never can tell about propagation! I got a note from Ray stating he'd been in Eastern Oregon last weekend. He most probably was the weak station I could just not get above the noise. He was near Joseph where Ms. Pat and her friend went on an outing last year. I've got a lot of photos from very near where Ray was camping. You may have noticed a difference between my sending on 20 and then later on 40 meters. During dinner I lost a temporary part of a tooth which stung like the dickens during the second net. I think the QRN was resonating in the cavity. Hopefully I'll be able to arrange for my dentist tomorrow. But, no hot stuff, no cold stuff. No breathing through my mouth. Good thing it is not winter! Most of the weather reports today were clear and hot except in Ontario and Colorado. They both mentioned clouds and rain. On another note: Karl must have had the loudest signal I have ever heard. It took an act of will to see if he wasn't in my driveway ;) Normally he and I have a hard time since we are so close. Don't know what happened to make this connection; I'll have to dig for the rest of the story. The lists: On 14050 kHz at 2256z: NE5DL - Dave - TX - K2 - 2887 W6ZH - Pete - CA - K2 - 5138 KT5E - Jay - CO - K2 - 5037 K3OOL - Craig - PA - K2 - 4790 AB8KJ - Chuck - MI - K2 - 2596 VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968QNI #105!!! K2HYD - Ray - VA - KX1 - 608 K6BGB - Rod - TX - KX1 - ? K4BEH - Pat - GA - K2 - 5041 N0BK - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 On 7045 kHz at 0200z: W6ZH - Pete - CA - K2 - 5138 N7NLU - Karl - OR - some Elecraft rig in progressQNI #55!! WB6OMT - Paul - CA - Ten Tec - just wanted to give me an RST N6JW - John - CA - K2 - 3290 KT5E - Jay - CO - K2 - 5037 AB8KJ - Chuck - MI - K2 - 2596 W1TF - Ty - GA - K1 - 1423QNI #40!! KL7V/5 - Sam - OK - K2 - 3158 ND0V - Greg - CO - either K1 - 2151 or K2 - 4411 or KX1 - 1162 just did not ask ;) Thanks again for three years learning how to run a net. In another three years I will have learned a bit more but I hope to still be plugging away at it. Running these two nets a week makes my Sunday afternoons and evenings a lot of fun. As always suggestions, critiques, or corrections are appreciated. Until next week stay well, 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem
Harvey, At first glance it would seem like there is something awry with your wattmeter section of the KPA100. Check the T4 windings again and check carefully to be certain everything is well soldered with no solder bridges. Check the diodes for proper orientation, then try again to balance the wattmeter bridge. If you do not get the trimmer capacitor correct, the power and SWR indications will be 'funny', so be certain that you have a good null (use the DVM on the test point). The capacitor setting is quite 'touchy' so adjust it very slowly waiting for your DVM to settle down with each small change. The increased voltages at D13 and U4 pin 8 are to be expected since the change of R4 to 39k - the voltages in the KPA100 unfortunately have not been updated to reflect this change. They are NOT related to your wattmeter problem. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hello everyone. I almost made it to the finish line with my K2. I'm encountering a problem with the KPA100 SWR Bridge Null Adjustment (C1). I have everything hooked up correctly as far as I can determine. I set the power knob for 5.0 W. Enter tune mode and adjust C1 to get 1.0-1 SWR on the K2 display. The best I can achieve is 3.6w and 3.4-1 SWR. When the display reads this value my SX-200 power meter indicates about 18 watts out!! Also some of the voltages read a little high: D13 cathode should be 90 to 150v : reads 158v. U4 (MAX 1406) pin 8 should be -5 to -25v : reads -28v Test Equipment Used: DL-1 and MFJ dummy loads. SX-200 power meter. I have given the board a close visual inspection and nothing looks bad. The red and green leads on T4 go to the correct pads. Any ideas? Thanks very much. Harvey KN6VP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: F/S BIG BOX OF STUFF!
All items are spoken for, thanks all for your interest. -- 73, Rod N0RC On 6/11/06, Rod N0RC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Folks, I'm moving across county and need to lighten the load before I go. So, I'm offering a Big Box-o-Stuff, $250 picked up in Fort Collins, CO. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Run that by me one more time:
n0jrn wrote: I'm about to install the KAT2 in a rig that has revision 1.04D firmware. The KAT2 manual says this tuner will work with 1.04 but recommends 1.05 or better to to take full advantage of the tuners features. Simple question: Will the KAT2 operate satisfactory using 1.04D ?? What features will be gained by upgrading the firmware ?? Hi Jerry, Rev 1.05 of the K2 firmware added two new ATU features: - Holding DISPLAY and TUNE switches together forces ATU into POUT mode temporarily. This is useful when you want to do TUNE at full power but not kick off an ATU re-tune. - Automatic power reduction to 3W in both AUTO ALT modes. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] re: K1 frequency range
- Original Message - From: rlpend [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 10:55 AM Subject: [Elecraft] re: K1 frequency range If I exchange C2 with C2a to expand frequency coverage to c. 150 khz will I need to re-peak all the filters and re-calibrate the receiver? Thanks. P.S.: the backlight kit is a wonderful addition to the K1. Bob N5JYW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com I just made this change. No need to re-peak the filters or re-calibrate the frequency readout. I did, however, have to adjust the turns on the VFO coil, to get the VFO range in spec. I don't remember if I had to expand or compress the turns. I am happy with the result. I get about 170 khz tuning range. Thats an average of 17 khz per turn. Not bad. And the backlite is a nice touch. 73 Rick Dettinger K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SMT project thanks
Thanks to everyone (and there were many) who made suggestions for a project to learn SMT techniques. I've decided to build the AMQRP Micro-908 (see http://www.amqrp.org/kits/micro908/index.html#Description%202). They are currently sold out, but expect to produce more kits soon. This is an ambitious project, but what you get is amazing. I've already built a new work area with a smooth white surface, a powerful lamp, esd precautions, etc. I have an Optivisor magnifier and various little tools that I also use for tiny model railroad thingys. I'm all set to move into a new world of DSP, software defined radio, and who knows what that SMT makes possible! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
