[Elecraft] "PBT" presets for SSB filters?
I want set up my K2 with some selctable "PBT" presets and perhaps just 2 filter widths. I frequently use +150 to +250 Hz with my other rig for narrow 1.8kHz filters. I am currently just using the KDSP2 filter with decreasing filter widths and no offsets. What are K2 users favorite ways for setting the KSB2 and KDSP2 for peset CalFil offsets and filter widths for SSB? John K5XTX _ On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
I just got a elecraft hexkey and I'm trying to decide which I like better, my profi or the hexkey. Greg AB7R -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Vic K2VCO Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 9:38 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles Darrell Bellerive wrote: > Reading the Bencher web site it suggests that the BY-1 series is better for > those using a light touch than the Hex Paddle, which is for those more used > to a bug. I'll put it this way: the BY-1 is *only* good if you have a light touch! The Hex Key will work fine either way. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
I have the BY-1 & the Hex Key. I use a light touch on both. Tried a "heavy" touch with the Bencher. It's hard for me to imagine slapping it around enough to mess things up. That's some heavy use! Just my opinion. 73, Tony W7GO Vic K2VCO wrote: Darrell Bellerive wrote: Reading the Bencher web site it suggests that the BY-1 series is better for those using a light touch than the Hex Paddle, which is for those more used to a bug. I'll put it this way: the BY-1 is *only* good if you have a light touch! The Hex Key will work fine either way. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Darrell Bellerive wrote: Reading the Bencher web site it suggests that the BY-1 series is better for those using a light touch than the Hex Paddle, which is for those more used to a bug. I'll put it this way: the BY-1 is *only* good if you have a light touch! The Hex Key will work fine either way. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Darrell Bellerive wrote: That seems to run contradictory to what I read in this thread and on eHam. So, do those of you who have used both the BY-1 and Hex Paddle agree with Bencher's views? Is the BY-1 really better for those using a light touch? I tend to be a bit heavy-handed with the paddles. Having both a BY-1 and a Hex Key I prefer the Hex Key. It stays put on the table and has a great feel. And it doesn't "lift and separate" the way the BY-1 does if you apply any upward pressure to a paddle. My Hex Key is the Bencher brand -- got it before Elecraft started selling the paddle under its label. Gus Hansen KB0YH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] High End Paddles
I sure have enjoyed this thread on high end paddles. I have so far mostly used just a straight key, but with my new K2 and it's built in keyer I would like to give iambic operation another go. I had a Heathkit uMatic keyer, model SA-5010, with the capacitive touch paddles. Had lots of trouble getting used to those paddles so I purchased a Vibroplex Iambic Deluxe. Well, I was not much better with those, so I gave up on the world of keyers and went back to my straight key. I did use the memories in the uMatic though. A few years later I discovered the article by Chuck Adams, K7QQ, on using an iambic paddle. I found I was using the slap the paddle around the desk method and seldom used the iambic function of the keyer but treating the paddles more like a single lever. Resetting the Vibroplex paddle as Chuck recommends and learning to send with a light touch helped, but I still was having trouble. Ended up selling the paddle when someone wanted the paddle for their collection and I needed a few bucks. With the new K2, and the need to test the built-in keyer, a friend lent me his Bencher BY-1 paddle. What a difference! Although I still need lots of practice, I can use this paddle. Reading the Bencher web site it suggests that the BY-1 series is better for those using a light touch than the Hex Paddle, which is for those more used to a bug. That seems to run contradictory to what I read in this thread and on eHam. So, do those of you who have used both the BY-1 and Hex Paddle agree with Bencher's views? Is the BY-1 really better for those using a light touch? With little money to spend, and a KPA100 and KAT100 also on the wishlist, I am wondering if I should look for a good used BY-1, and save for a better paddle down the road. I doubt I will reach 20 wpm for a few years and I am just learning how to properly use an iambic paddle. Is there a downside to learning with a BY-1 and then moving to something else? Or would it be better to learn with a better paddle from the start? The HEXKEY and Begali Simplex would run in the $215-250 range in Canadian dollars. The Begali magnetic paddles would add another $140 to the price. The Begali Signature would set me back about $475. Used Bencher BY-1's from eBay would cost me less than $100 Canadian dollars. Probably not the best apples and oranges comparison, but I doubt I will find many used HEXKEYs, Begalis, or other high end paddles for sale. I would also be hesitant about buying such an expensive key on eBay for fear of getting one that has been abused. I'd like to hear your opinions and thoughts on my paddle selection, Darrell -- Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: [QRP-L] What antenna should I build?
You need to use a tuner between your antenna and the radio to avoid the radio cutting back power to protect itself from high SWR. You might want to try measurements without the unknown balun. They might be better! Don't get hung up on the need for balun without trying without first. I did not use a balun for my first 18 years as a ham, and worked just as good that way as now with a balun. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 PA Q Tightening--Tnx Explanation
"Minor scratches are OK. This material melts and fills the gaps between the PA transistors and the heatsink as the devices heat up the first couple of times. (That is one of the reasons we require tightening of the transistor mounting screws after a initial short period of use.) 73, Eric WA6HHQ Elecraft" Thanks for the explanation! Since completing my KPA100 I've wondered why the tightening-after-first-extended-use is necessary but doesn't need to be repeated. I tightened mine after a few hours of contesting and no subsequent tightening has been necessary. It makes sense now--the screws need tightening because a new gap is created between the transistor cases and the heat sink after the heat sink material melts. Just one more piece of information about what goes on under the hood of my K2/100. 73, John, N7ON K2/100 S/N 5023 P.S. 500+ K2's sold since receiving mine last July? FB! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Century 22 vs. K2.
Darwin, Keith wrote: QSK in the C22 is not as good as the K2. The C22 gives thumps and pops in the headphones and speaker during QSK. K2 is far smoother and quieter. I am surprised! Ten Tec is known for QSK rigs. Perhaps some aging components are in need of service. Certainly, it is not a fair comparison but just the same, having another rig has renewed my my "Wow Factor" for the K2. hey man, it's the fun in doing so that counts! When doing comparisons between your "first" radio re-acquired and your current love affair with the K2 it's always exciting to do comparisons from yesteryear to today. Think how much older you are too! (smile). Ron, wb1hga owner of several fine radios from Ten Tec including the fun-est radio of all time: K1! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] AGC Circuit Explanation?
Darrell, If you look again at the MC1350 spec sheet you should see 2 graphs - first is the gain reduction Vs. AGC voltage and the second is Noise Figure vs. Gain Reduction. I would believe the results of these 2 graphs combined are part of what you are observing. As you increase the gain, the chip itself becomes noisier - plus there are noise sources ahead of the IF Amp in the K2 that are amplified by the MC1350 which further complicates the overall effect. It is true that the graph of Gain Reduction shows that less than 5 volts should give 0 dB of gain reduction, but note also that the spec sheet says the supply voltage for these conditions is +12 volts while the K2 operates the chip from the +8 volt rail. I have no idea how much effect the lowered voltage has on the AGC operation of the chip, but for certain, the bias point of the AGC transistors in the 1350 schematic shown should change a bit with decreased supply voltage. Your best bet is to do as you have done and determine the proper AGC Threshold empirically, and watching the noise floor with Spectrogram is splendid idea. I would also recommend that you turn the Pre-Amp off when determining the optimum AGC Threshold - the optimum point is more easily observed without the added preamp noise to contend with. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Darrell Bellerive > Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:18 AM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: [Elecraft] AGC Circuit Explanation? > > > I am hoping I can induce some nice person to spend some time > explaining the K2 > AGC circuit to me. I've been trying to tweak the AGC threshold > potentiometer, > and in the process trying to learn about this circuit. > > From the datasheet of the MC1350P it looks like pin 5, the AGC control > voltage, works on a range of 5 to 7 volts. Yet when I measure it > with my 10 > Megaohm input DMM, it ranges from about 3.7 to 4 volts from no > signal to a 50 > microvolt signal from the XG1. The AGC seems to work just fine. I > would have > expected a higher voltage on this pin. > > Also, the tweak procedure is to listen to the receiver generated > noise without > antenna connected and adjust the pot (R1) so there is no > difference in noise > level with the AGC on or off. I found that the control was quite > broad and > not easy to find an exact spot. > > So I decided to use Baudline to help me out. Baudline is an audio > spectrum > analyzer computer program for Linux similar to Spectrogram for > Windows. What > I found was that as the AGC voltage was varied by adjusting R1, the total > power level of the noise would vary, as expected. > > What I found interesting was that the AGC voltage is always > different between > AGC on and off, and similarly the total power level of the noise > was always > different between AGC on and off. What I did find was that the difference > between noise power levels decreased as the voltage decreased. > > Note that I am measuring the AGC voltage at pin 5 of U12 > (MC1350P) and not pin > 5 of U2 (LM833) where the AGC threshold voltage is measured. So > the voltage > readings below are the actual AGC voltage and not the AGC > threshold voltage > as measured at U2. > > Here's my measurements: > > Case 1: > AGC off: Volts: 3.706 Noise: -22.68 dB > AGC on: Volts: 3.763 Noise: -23.22 dB > Difference: Volts:0.057 Noise: 0.54 dB > > Case 2: > AGC off: Volts: 3.821 Noise: -22.75 dB > AGC on: Volts: 3.872 Noise: -23.69 dB > Difference: Volts:0.051 Noise: 0.94 dB > > Case 3: > AGC off: Volts: 3.867 Noise: -23.07 dB > AGC on: Volts: 3.907 Noise: -24.65 dB > Difference: Volts:0.040 Noise: 1.58 dB > > So since a change of less than 1 dB is not noticeable to the human ear > then perhaps this might be a good point for the AGC threshold? Comments? > > Is what I am seeing normal behavior in a K2? Everything seems to > work just > fine. > > Darrell VA7TO K2#5093 > > -- > Darrell Bellerive > Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA > Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.4/364 - Release Date: 6/14/2006 > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KNB2 Noise Blanker - doesn't?
On my K2's NB (KNB2, May 2006) - It seems no matter what type of random, or periodic band noise is present - activating the KNB2 doesn't affect the noise in any fashion? It doesn't get louder, or quieter, or no noise goes away, and "noise" doesn't get any better. So I guess, besides the OK TESTS, when I built it - it isn't working as it should. I know when I built it in April or May 2006 - I complained to Elecraft's support group - that the KNB2's Circuit Board - seemed poorly made. Almost like whomever makes their boards, blew it on my KNB2's board. Elecraft offered to take it back, but I built it and put in into service into my K2 #5422. I wonder if I couldn't send in just the KNB2 to Elecraft's support group, for a checkup? Thanks, Fred N3CSY __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Century 22 vs. K2.
I picked up a used C22 last night. Had one years ago and remember it fondly. So, partly for old time's sake, I got another. I hooked it up next to the K2 and began tuning around. Wow, was 40 meters alive with signals. The lower end of the band was packed. I narrowed the C22's audio filter down almost all the way before I started to hear the open spaces between the signals. The rig sounds pretty good and has nice big knobs. I miss big knobs. I listened to the C22 for a bit then switched to the K2. Wow, what a difference. Suddenly 40 meters is not alive with signals, but has quite a bit of open space between each signal. The background sounds quieter, smoother in the K2. AF hiss is much lower in the K2 than the C22 which was a bit of a surprise. I had expected the rather simple receiver design in the C22 to produce minimal AF hiss. Not so. QSK in the C22 is not as good as the K2. The C22 gives thumps and pops in the headphones and speaker during QSK. K2 is far smoother and quieter. Certainly, it is not a fair comparison but just the same, having another rig has renewed my my "Wow Factor" for the K2. - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Italy Customs Duties
Am 15. Jun 2006, um 10:36:05 schrieb Peppino Berria: > Hi Gents, > First of all I believe it's wrong to talk about EU > customs: Italy makes the difference! Look here: > 1) Back in oct 2004 my K2 kit plus options came from > Elecraft under codes 8525-2099-00 and 8529-9040-00. > Total amount US$ 1.719,03 (shipping and hand. $105 > included). Italy customs changed codes as > "transmitting apparatous + other apparatous" and > charged on it EU.280,77 (VAT, excise,fees and more)!! Peppino, the customs tariff really is EU wide, the VAT is not. With the elecraft code, and the paperwork that once was done by the DARC you should be able to get your K2 kit including all options in easily at 0% Customs. What is not EU wide is the VAT, but you do pay that on any goods you buy anywhere. According to Google, VAT in Italy is 20%. So of $1719, assuming an exchange rate of 1.20 USD to the EUR, youre at 1432 EUR import price, and thus you get a VAT in the range you mentioned. Should your invoice include real customs duty, you can get that usually back easily by sending in the additional documentation. Seriously, the only "robbery" thing happening to me in the past was when USPS sent their parcels via GLS and they charged a $20/parcel handling fee, but (from what I read somewhere due to massive customer complains USPS has reverted their european deliveries back to the national postal services. Now tho, what happened to my last 3 US purchases is that some lazy post officer did not do the customs forms & COD the fee, and directed the parcel to the local customs office, with "missing documentation" as an excuse, requiring me to deal with that directly (ie. go there personally & pick up the parcel). In all these cases, the invoices & paperwork were good & proper. I would be interested in hearing from other german hams if this happened only to me, or if this is something of a trend. MfG Mario Lorenz -- Mario LorenzInternet:<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ham Radio: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Newsflash: Microsoft announces Visual Edlin for Windows98! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Moving the bands on k1 modules
Thank You all OM for answering my Question.. -- Krister Eriksson Ringduvegatan 23 724 70 Västerås [Hamradio: SM5KRI] [ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Moving the bands on k1 modules
> You can't get much more out of it than what is >described on the elecraft site. Except that, rather than supporting 40/30/20m plus either 17 OR 15 meters, the KFL1-4 filter board is actually a little more versatile. As supplied, it supports 40/30m, plus ANY TWO of 20m, 17m, or 15m. I don't know why Elecraft doesn't take credit for this. Every once in a while a person comes around who doesn't care about 20m coverage. Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] EFHWA / Fuchs / z-match thread
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2006-06/msg00464.html ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 AUX cable length ?
Joerg, As I recall, the maximum recommended cable distance is less than a meter. Yes, the critical parameter is the AUXBUS signalling - excessive signalling delays will cause problems. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:41 AM > To: Elecraft > Subject: [Elecraft] K2 AUX cable length ? > > > >Hi, > >i would like to place my KAT100 antenna tuner closer to my endfeeded >antenna. The distance between K2 and KAT100 would be about 10 m. > >This is a critical length for the communication on AUX bus ? > >73 de Joerg (DL3QQ) > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.4/364 - Release Date: 6/14/2006 > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KXPD1
A response to my earlier post regarding the knurled screw on the KXPD1 paddle suggests that a proper nut be threaded onto the screw before cutting it, then back the nut off, thereby cleaning up the threads...Yes, this is a time honored method of chasing a damaged thread, and is used on many of the all purpose crimper-cutter tools available today in Sears, Home Depot, etc...However, this is often good for only one shot...The leading edge of the starting thread is still left razor thin and sharp and will eventually bend over and jam the screw...IMHO, it is best to bevel the end of the screw... Jerry, wa2dkg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] VERTICALS
Bruce Bowman wrote: This antenna, and I'm confident any 1/4 wave vertical, is very sensitive to grounding. I've had to mount mine on the roof, and the vertical doesn't like being mounted up there (13' up in our case with the radials are layed out on our flat roof). I was warned by Fluid Motion (the mfr) this elevation would be an issue unless I could get it > 0.2 wave lengths off ground; that means more than 8m up to use the 40m band. At anything over 8m elevation, sloping the radials will improve the performance. It'a all in the report available on their site. As you get closer to the ground, the system behaves more like a ground-mounted vertical, and so you need to treat the radial system as a capacity-coupled counterpoise, as opposed to the resonant radials of a ground plane antenna. This means that you need more radials. Otherwise, much of the ground return current will flow in the lossy real ground. If I were putting a BigIR or similar on a low roof, I would start with about 16 radials. Yes, the KAT2 matches the complex component of impedance, but it doesn't do anything about matching the real component of impedance... that takes a matching transformer. Simply getting a low SWR doesn't necessarily mean you're getting power out to the antenna. I would put it differently. The matching is fine -- the problem is that the RF current to the antenna divides between the radiation resistance of the antenna and the effective ground resistance. If the radiation resistance of the antenna is very low, then most of the power ends up heating the ground. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] VERTICALS
Don, You are quite right about how easy it is to put up a Half Square, and it is quite a forgiving antenna as far as dimensions are concerned, although symmetry seems to be important. When they were up I fed each of my 40m Half Squares at its corner using the outside braid of the feeder as one leg of each antenna, along with a high impedance L - C tuned trap a 1/4 wave down from the feedpoint using the braid of coiled feeder as the L - solenoid wound not scrambled. I used two Half Squares at right angles because the nulls off the ends of a Half Square are quite deep at low angles. I agree with your comment about the choking impedance offered by a simple coil of coax, which is why I use high impedance tuned L-C traps in these applications with the braid of the coiled feeder coax acting as the L. A simple coil of coax could be used if its interwinding capacitance resonated with the inductance of the coil at or very close to the operating frequency thus increasing the impedance, but not a good idea. One penalty gained when using the braid of the feed coax wound as a coil for a tuned L - C trap is that the jacket of the coax has to be opened at the start and end of the coax coil to gain access to the braid for connecting the capacitor, so weatherproofing is very important at those points. The function of the trap is simply to establish the length of the outside of the feeder's braid that acts as the bottom 1/4 wave of the dipole, or leg in the case of a Half Square, and prevents the real antenna current going any further. The trap has no effect on the feeder itself, other than to increase its length, since the feed currents are flowing inside the coax. Hope that this clarifies some. 73, Geoff GM4ESD Don W3FPR wrote: A half square antenna is also a phased pair of 'upside-down' verticals - easy to get up if you have 2 supports just a bit more than 1/4 wave high and a bit more than a half wavlength apart. Feed at the upper corner directly with coax or with a parallel resonant tank at the lower end of the vertical section. I have one observation about the 'coax dipole' that you described - the choking impedance must be very high for it to work properly - consider that the impedance at the end of a halfwave dipole is quite high (4000 ohms or so), to effectively de-couple the remaining coax shield at the 1/4 wave point, you would need a choking impedance at least 5 times the impedance at that point - more like 20,000 ohms. The impedance of a few turns of coax is not going to make an effective choke at this high impedance point. I might consider it to be a 3/4 wave dipole fed at the 1/4 wave point with the choke placed at a point 1/2 wavelength down the coax. I guess I have to try one just to see how the feed impedance works out, several folks report success with these coax antennas, but I do not understand how the choke could work at 1/4 wavelength down the coax. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 AUX cable length ?
Hi, i would like to place my KAT100 antenna tuner closer to my endfeeded antenna. The distance between K2 and KAT100 would be about 10 m. This is a critical length for the communication on AUX bus ? 73 de Joerg (DL3QQ) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ATU/Tuner
Paul, I have had both the LDG and the Elecraft ATUs. For my money I would chose the Elecraft KAT100. The KAT100 in the standard casing is low profile and is a great unit. I used that setup here for quite a while and then opted to put the KPA100 and KAT100 in an EC2 case (know in the fraternity as "K-Twins"). Now I can split the two up and have a 10W rig for travel or the QRO rig here at home for those rare DX contacts. 73 Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Italy Customs Duties
Peppino Berria wrote: First of all I believe it's wrong to talk about EU customs: Italy makes the difference! I think I have the ultimate customs story. It happened in Israel in the early '80's. A fellow was bringing in a tape containing software from the IBM SHARE organization. These were various utility programs, etc., written by members of the organization and made available free to anyone who wanted them. The customs official asked him "how many programs are on the tape?" The guy responded "284" (or some similar number). The official then proceeded to multiply 284 by the price of Lotus 1-2-3 (I think about $150) and asked for duty at a 30% rate on the total! Needless to say, the guy let them keep his tape. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] AGC Circuit Explanation?
I am hoping I can induce some nice person to spend some time explaining the K2 AGC circuit to me. I've been trying to tweak the AGC threshold potentiometer, and in the process trying to learn about this circuit. >From the datasheet of the MC1350P it looks like pin 5, the AGC control voltage, works on a range of 5 to 7 volts. Yet when I measure it with my 10 Megaohm input DMM, it ranges from about 3.7 to 4 volts from no signal to a 50 microvolt signal from the XG1. The AGC seems to work just fine. I would have expected a higher voltage on this pin. Also, the tweak procedure is to listen to the receiver generated noise without antenna connected and adjust the pot (R1) so there is no difference in noise level with the AGC on or off. I found that the control was quite broad and not easy to find an exact spot. So I decided to use Baudline to help me out. Baudline is an audio spectrum analyzer computer program for Linux similar to Spectrogram for Windows. What I found was that as the AGC voltage was varied by adjusting R1, the total power level of the noise would vary, as expected. What I found interesting was that the AGC voltage is always different between AGC on and off, and similarly the total power level of the noise was always different between AGC on and off. What I did find was that the difference between noise power levels decreased as the voltage decreased. Note that I am measuring the AGC voltage at pin 5 of U12 (MC1350P) and not pin 5 of U2 (LM833) where the AGC threshold voltage is measured. So the voltage readings below are the actual AGC voltage and not the AGC threshold voltage as measured at U2. Here's my measurements: Case 1: AGC off: Volts: 3.706 Noise: -22.68 dB AGC on: Volts: 3.763 Noise: -23.22 dB Difference: Volts:0.057 Noise: 0.54 dB Case 2: AGC off: Volts: 3.821 Noise: -22.75 dB AGC on: Volts: 3.872 Noise: -23.69 dB Difference: Volts:0.051 Noise: 0.94 dB Case 3: AGC off: Volts: 3.867 Noise: -23.07 dB AGC on: Volts: 3.907 Noise: -24.65 dB Difference: Volts:0.040 Noise: 1.58 dB So since a change of less than 1 dB is not noticeable to the human ear then perhaps this might be a good point for the AGC threshold? Comments? Is what I am seeing normal behavior in a K2? Everything seems to work just fine. Darrell VA7TO K2#5093 -- Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1
Alsoif you have a nut that you can thread onto the screw before filing, when you back it off after the filing is done it will help restore the threads on the screw. 73 Greg AB7R On Thu, 15 Jun 2006 10:00:12 -0500 "Jeremiah McCarthy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I have built about 10 KX1's and the retaining screw for the paddle DOES protrude through the anchor nut and in some cases strikes the circuit board, preventing the paddle from being pulled up tight...Not everyone who buys a KX1 also buys the paddle, so it might not be encountered a lot, but I have had 2 of them so far where this was a problem... There are 3 ways to fix it...(1) file the notch in the circuit board deeper, but this is hairy because it is very close to a circuit trace, (2) make up a thin plastic shim and place it between the paddle body and the KX1 case, or, (3) grind off the end of the knurled screw about 1/32"...IMHO, number 3 is the best option, but it must be done carefully because it will burr the end of the threads making it difficult to start the screw into the anchor nut...To overcome that, CAREFULLY grind or file a 45 degree bevel all the way around on the end of the screw, as if you were going to bring it to a point, but stopping far short of that...It will start threading into the anchor nut easily now... Jerry, wa2dkg I must have done something wrong... When I plug the kxbd1 in it wiggles too much..< Should I have screwed the knerled nut on the key jack? The jack on my kx-1 is flush with the upper conver so the nut wont screw on. Suggestions to solve the case of the wiggling KXBD1< ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] UK Duty and VAT
During the last four years I have had four large orders from Elecraft and do not recall paying any Duty. I have paid VAT on all orders 17.5% and noticed that if I pay by PayPal the exchange rate USD/GBP is the best in the money market - recently as high as 1.84USD to 1.0GBP. To purchase in Euros is not as cost effective as USD plus our VAT. BTW, Transport time from Elecraft to UK depot is usually four days - UK Depot to my QTH is 6 to 8 days. ParcelForce Stoke-on-Trent is the depot and my location is High Peak. I usually mention to Elecraft that a double box is preferred to reduce transit damage especially if P/Force is involved. I have every confidence in receiving orders from Elecraft to my door in every respect. 73, Mark, G3XYS KX1, K1, K2 x 2 T1, XG2 and bits ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] VERTICALS
I have a SteppIR vertical, the one they call the BiggIR which tunes 40m thru 6m. They work great in that they are always the correct length and with options can track the radio dial, automatically adjusting the physical length in small increments every 50 KHz. Unless you do something really dumb, the design is very durable with copper-berylium tape for the radiating element housed inside nested fiberglass tubes. The antenna requires guys at 8' above the base and you must use radials. If you really would use it as a flag pole, I have my doubts. It's pretty 'whippy' in a breeze with nothing attached. I suspect a flag could cause too much bending and snap an upper section in a stiff breeze. A Force 12 would be a better choice for that sort of thing. This antenna, and I'm confident any 1/4 wave vertical, is very sensitive to grounding. I've had to mount mine on the roof, and the vertical doesn't like being mounted up there (13' up in our case with the radials are layed out on our flat roof). I was warned by Fluid Motion (the mfr) this elevation would be an issue unless I could get it > 0.2 wave lengths off ground; that means more than 8m up to use the 40m band. At anything over 8m elevation, sloping the radials will improve the performance. It'a all in the report available on their site. In my own case the real component of impedance dropped to very small values- I've seen < 2 ohms depending on the band. At 2 ohms, that means most of the power is being dissipated back in the 50 ohm finals of the K2 and not out at the antenna. Yes, the KAT2 matches the complex component of impedance, but it doesn't do anything about matching the real component of impedance... that takes a matching transformer. Simply getting a low SWR doesn't necessarily mean you're getting power out to the antenna. If you can mount the antenna at ground level, then the real component of impedance should move up to 35-40 ohms and you should be a happy camper. Btw, the SteppIR will tune 40m - 6m as a vertical, and in a pinch will even tune 2m. For beams and the dipole from Fluid Motion, I believe you have to buy an accessory to tune 6m. Also, there's a photo on their site of a pretty stealthy installation using their 20m-10m dipole (I don't know if it will tune 6m) mounted flat on a roof right at the ridge. You would have to know what you were looking for to spot it since it's only an inch or 2 off the surface. Check their site if that's of interest. If you want to request info about any of the SteppIRs, don't bother with their e-Mail. They've given up because of spam and only respond to phone calls. Bruce NM5B Santa Fe, NM - Original Message - From: "John Wiener" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Elecraft email" Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 6:02 PM Subject: [Elecraft] VERTICALS > > Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anyone mention SteppIR, though I > seem to remember a mention of it earlier. > > I do not have one, but I've seen articles showing one masquerading as > a flag pole. > > As many know, the SteppIR has a metal "tape" element that is metered > out from the base within a PVC (I think) tube. The antenna element > can be shortened/lengthened remotely to maximize performance on any > HF band. This design intrigued me. Seems many of us end up retiring > in CCR environments. Who can argue with a good ol' American flagpole? > http://www.steppir.com/ > > (I have no connection with the company.) > > John > AB8WH > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ATU/Tuner
Hi Paul, I don't want to sound like a K2 bigot, but you could not be happier nor more pleased with the external KAT-100 tuner. Aside from its physical size which allows the K2 to sit on top of it using indented rubber feet for stability, this tuner has the ability to tune quite a wide range of SWR, for example, end fed wires. My experience with the KAT-100 is tuning dipoles fed with open wire feeders, eg., using zip cord, 300 ohm TV lead, and 450 ohm twin lead. I have used 450 ohm twin lead for horizonal wires fed with 450 ohm twin lead like a folded dipole which will tune 1 to 1, 160m-10m. In these configurations I use the Elecraft BL1 150W balun connected to the twin lead and then a short length of coax from the BL1 to the tuner. You know you can have two antennas connected to the tuner, switchable from the K2 front panel. Disadvantages: This tuner works only with the K2 due to the communictions bus between K2 and tuner. The tuner is a bit heavy for its size but there are a lot of toroids in there and the case is steel, not aluminum. You can see it is a very compact unit and a good travelling companion for the K2/100. Whatever you choose, I wish you good luck. de Joe, aa4nn - The question for the group. I would like a 100w ATU for travelling and are there any other options (LDGand others) besides the KAT-100 that I should consider. Size and weight are of course primary importance. Tnx and 73 Paul W4MAY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Moving the bands on k1 modules
Because of the way the K1 4-band board is designed (2 bands share a set of bandpass and lowpass filters (40/30 and 20/17) as opposed to the 2-band board which can accept any two bands, since each has it's own set of filters) you can not do as you describe. You can't get much more out of it than what is described on the elecraft site. If you want 80/40/30/20 in one case you could get a KX1 + KXB3080, but those are the only bands you can get in it. dt . --- Krister Eriksson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi, > I have ordered one K1-4 plus KFL1-2, should soon arrive here in SM. > > I have choosen 40/30/20/17 mtrs in k1-4 and 80/15 on KFL1-2 board and > will probably build this way, but i just wondering about doing this way: > 80/40/30/20 K1-4 and 17/15 on KFL1-2, is that possible with the existing > parts included in kit? > > By this way i will not need to swap boards when changing between 40 and > 80 mtrs.. > > 73 / SM5KRI Chris > -- > Krister Eriksson > Ringduvegatan 23 > 724 70 V�ster�s > > [Hamradio: SM5KRI] > [ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ] > > > -- > SM5KRI > Krister Eriksson > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] VERTICALS
Geoff, A half square antenna is also a phased pair of 'upside-down' verticals - easy to get up if you have 2 supports just a bit more than 1/4 wave high and a bit more than a half wavlength apart. Feed at the upper corner directly with coax or with a parallel resonant tank at the lower end of the vertical section. I have one observation about the 'coax dipole' that you described - the choking impedance must be very high for it to work properly - consider that the impedance at the end of a halfwave dipole is quite high (4000 ohms or so), to effectively de-couple the remaining coax shield at the 1/4 wave point, you would need a choking impedance at least 5 times the impedance at that point - more like 20,000 ohms. The impedance of a few turns of coax is not going to make an effective choke at this high impedance point. I might consider it to be a 3/4 wave dipole fed at the 1/4 wave point with the choke placed at a point 1/2 wavelength down the coax. I guess I have to try one just to see how the feed impedance works out, several folks report success with these coax antennas, but I do not understand how the choke could work at 1/4 wavelength down the coax. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > If it is not possible to put up a vertical taller than a 1/4 wave in among > small trees and shrubs, in my experience better results can be obtained if > the antenna is turned upside down so that the high current > portion is at the > top, and the bottom end a few feet above ground. This way the > antenna has a > better chance of looking over the vegetation. The T antenna is an > example of > this scheme, and can be voltage fed at the bottom with a parallel > LC 'tank' > with link or tap for the coax feed. ...(snip) > > A neater method can be used with vertical centre fed 1/2 wave dipoles. The > top 1/4 wave section is made from wire (Flexweave is good) with > its 'bottom' > end connected to the centre conductor of the coax feeder, the braid is not > connected to anything. The bottom 1/4 wave part of the dipole uses the > outside of the coax feeder's braid. The RF current flowing on the > inside of > the feeder loops over to the outside of the braid at the open end of the > coax, and continues to flow down the outside of the feeder untill told to > stop.This is done by introducing a high impedance trap, again > using a coiled > length of the feeder as part of a trap, approximately 1/4 wave > down from the > feeder's open end. ...(snip) > 73, > Geoff > GM4ESD > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KNB2 Noise Blanker - doesn't?
Hi Fred, My KNB2 works superbly on a certain kind of noise that I only get once in a while. I don't know what causes it, but it sounds like frying a big pan of bacon. It's a nasty crackling sound. The KNB2 takes it out completely. I'm building my second K2 right now, and of course, it will have a KNB2. Hope this helps. 73, John, W2GW - Original Message - From: "Fred (FL)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 9:49 AM Subject: [Elecraft] KNB2 Noise Blanker - doesn't? I built, tested and installed KNB2 Noise Blanker, in my K2 # 5422 - on 6 May 2006. Still in the SWL mode, awaiting a stealth antenna, and having gotten my K2 # 5422 aligned and KSB2 installed - I've only practiced with using this KNB2 Noise Blanker on noisy band (CW and SSB) conditions. The operation of the KNB2, in contrast to NB's on various IC-706MKIIG and IC-7000 rigs I've recently owned - doesn't seem effective at all. In fact I'm doubting it does anything? Today, a large propane truck sat outside, 50 feet away from this K2 rig - plenty plenty of ignition noise. Clearly, on 40m CW ignition noise - none of that noise is reduced or eliminated by my new KSB2 at all? Aside from the simple hi/lo threshold settings - is there any "alignment" tweaking which I could do - to make this KNB2 come alive, and work? And on my KNB2, the hi/low setting don't do anything either? Help & 73's 6/15/2006 Fred N3CSY K2 #5422 KSB2 - 6 May 06 KNB2 - April 06 Dimple __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Moving the bands on k1 modules
The way the K1 RF boards are designed, the 4 band one won't work on 80/40/30/20! I have my 4 band board on 40/30/20/15 and an additional 2 band board for 160/80. 73, Sandy W5TVW - Original Message - From: "Krister Eriksson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 10:57 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Moving the bands on k1 modules | Hi, | I have ordered one K1-4 plus KFL1-2, should soon arrive here in SM. | | I have choosen 40/30/20/17 mtrs in k1-4 and 80/15 on KFL1-2 board and | will probably build this way, but i just wondering about doing this way: | 80/40/30/20 K1-4 and 17/15 on KFL1-2, is that possible with the existing | parts included in kit? | | By this way i will not need to swap boards when changing between 40 and | 80 mtrs.. | | 73 / SM5KRI Chris | -- | Krister Eriksson | Ringduvegatan 23 | 724 70 Västerås | | [Hamradio: SM5KRI] | [ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ] | | | -- | SM5KRI | Krister Eriksson | [EMAIL PROTECTED] | | ___ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | | | -- | No virus found in this incoming message. | Checked by AVG Free Edition. | Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.4/364 - Release Date: 6/14/2006 | | ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ATU/Tuner
I just ordered a K2/100 for use when I travel to Europe. I debated between a K2 and the IC-7000. After having to repair my 756PROII and a $800 repair bill, sort of soured me on non customer repairable rigs. I have a dozen "boat anchors" of various manufacturers that are easlily (or sort of) repairable by me with limited test equipment (sig gen, DMM, counter, scope). The question for the group. I would like a 100w ATU for travelling and are there any other options (LDGand others) besides the KAT-100 that I should consider. Size and weight are of course primary importance. Tnx and 73 Paul W4MAY K2 - SN - to be determined ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KXPD1
I have built about 10 KX1's and the retaining screw for the paddle DOES protrude through the anchor nut and in some cases strikes the circuit board, preventing the paddle from being pulled up tight...Not everyone who buys a KX1 also buys the paddle, so it might not be encountered a lot, but I have had 2 of them so far where this was a problem... There are 3 ways to fix it...(1) file the notch in the circuit board deeper, but this is hairy because it is very close to a circuit trace, (2) make up a thin plastic shim and place it between the paddle body and the KX1 case, or, (3) grind off the end of the knurled screw about 1/32"...IMHO, number 3 is the best option, but it must be done carefully because it will burr the end of the threads making it difficult to start the screw into the anchor nut...To overcome that, CAREFULLY grind or file a 45 degree bevel all the way around on the end of the screw, as if you were going to bring it to a point, but stopping far short of that...It will start threading into the anchor nut easily now... Jerry, wa2dkg >I must have done something wrong... When I plug the kxbd1 in it wiggles too much..< >Should I have screwed the knerled nut on the key jack? The jack on my kx-1 is flush with the upper conver so the nut wont screw on. Suggestions to solve the case of the wiggling KXBD1< ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KNB2 Noise Blanker - doesn't?
I built, tested and installed KNB2 Noise Blanker, in my K2 # 5422 - on 6 May 2006. Still in the SWL mode, awaiting a stealth antenna, and having gotten my K2 # 5422 aligned and KSB2 installed - I've only practiced with using this KNB2 Noise Blanker on noisy band (CW and SSB) conditions. The operation of the KNB2, in contrast to NB's on various IC-706MKIIG and IC-7000 rigs I've recently owned - doesn't seem effective at all. In fact I'm doubting it does anything? Today, a large propane truck sat outside, 50 feet away from this K2 rig - plenty plenty of ignition noise. Clearly, on 40m CW ignition noise - none of that noise is reduced or eliminated by my new KSB2 at all? Aside from the simple hi/lo threshold settings - is there any "alignment" tweaking which I could do - to make this KNB2 come alive, and work? And on my KNB2, the hi/low setting don't do anything either? Help & 73's 6/15/2006 Fred N3CSY K2 #5422 KSB2 - 6 May 06 KNB2 - April 06 Dimple __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Moving the bands on k1 modules
Chris, The K1 4 band board shares the low pass filter with 2 bands, so 80 and 40 meters as the lower band pair will not work because the 2nd harmonic energy from 80 would not be attenuated by a LPF that will also pass 40 meter signals. 40 and 30 meters work with the same LPF and 20 and 17 (or 15) meters will work with the same LPF, and that is what is done on the 4 band board. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Hi, > I have ordered one K1-4 plus KFL1-2, should soon arrive here in SM. > > I have choosen 40/30/20/17 mtrs in k1-4 and 80/15 on KFL1-2 board and > will probably build this way, but i just wondering about doing this way: > 80/40/30/20 K1-4 and 17/15 on KFL1-2, is that possible with the existing > parts included in kit? > > By this way i will not need to swap boards when changing between 40 and > 80 mtrs.. > > 73 / SM5KRI Chris > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] VERTICALS
Ron AC7AC wrote: There are two issues with ground-mounted verticals - either one that is actually 1/4 wave long or one that uses traps to 'disconnect' the unneeded length on the higher bands. 1) On the higher bands, the active portion of the antenna is that part closest to the ground. So, on the higher frequencies most vulnerable to absorption by surrounding objects, the active part of the antenna is most likely down among such objects. - Good point Ron, and a fact of life that is very seldom mentioned in the text books as far as HF antennas are concerned. If it is not possible to put up a vertical taller than a 1/4 wave in among small trees and shrubs, in my experience better results can be obtained if the antenna is turned upside down so that the high current portion is at the top, and the bottom end a few feet above ground. This way the antenna has a better chance of looking over the vegetation. The T antenna is an example of this scheme, and can be voltage fed at the bottom with a parallel LC 'tank' with link or tap for the coax feed. Personally I prefer to feed this type of antenna, or vertical 1/2 wave dipoles, at the high current point which is 1/4 wave plus a few feet above ground using coax. The centre of the coax connects to the top of the vertical, the braid to the horizontal 'radials'. If the coax is run alongside the vertical, the antenna's radiation pattern can be and usually is affected, with the main lobe being moved to a higher take-off angle. To avoid this problem the coax can be run inside or tied to the vertical element, and where the coax feeder leaves the bottom of the vertical it is coiled so that the braid of this coil forms the L of a high impedance LC trap tuned to the operating band. A simple choke coil could be used, but is not so effective since it has to present a very high impedance. A neater method can be used with vertical centre fed 1/2 wave dipoles. The top 1/4 wave section is made from wire (Flexweave is good) with its 'bottom' end connected to the centre conductor of the coax feeder, the braid is not connected to anything. The bottom 1/4 wave part of the dipole uses the outside of the coax feeder's braid. The RF current flowing on the inside of the feeder loops over to the outside of the braid at the open end of the coax, and continues to flow down the outside of the feeder untill told to stop.This is done by introducing a high impedance trap, again using a coiled length of the feeder as part of a trap, approximately 1/4 wave down from the feeder's open end. The velocity factor of the coax is not involved in working out the length of this 1/4 wave section because only the electrical length of the outside of the coax braid is of importance, but the jacket and diameter of the coax do have some effect on electrical length although they tend to cancel in practice. At the feedpoint the coax must be well supported by the top 1/4 wave wire so that the coax's centre conductor is not under stress. Anything to get rid of flapping feeders! 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] re Italy Customs Duties
Ireland would be a good bet from a tax standpoint I think ;-) Larry N8LP John wrote: Snip Wow ! I shall now stop complaining about the UK customs. Maybe Elecraft should set up in the EU... 73 Stewart G3RXQ err Hate to tell you this Stewart! http://www.qrpproject.de/UK/indexuk.html regards John M0CDL.. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SteppIr
Hi John, The SteppIr housings are fiberglass and can be purchased seperately. (I picked someones spare up to play with at some point). They had a nice booth at Dayton where you could see the internal parts in action. It's a great idea for someone who wants an "all in one" neat package. I bought one of the yagis for that reason, and from all the positive comments made in the contest and DX circles. As to radials, you can get away with a lot less length if you bury your radials just under the surface. Some efficiency is sacrificed, but even over poor soil (alas Tennessee falls into this category according to all the charts) you will get decent performance. My experience is with 80/160 and some 40M vertical work. On 80M, I used a 48' top loaded Tee wire vertical with twelve 30' radials just on top of the ground. Managed 90 countries in CQ WW CW with 100 watts, so don't let the 120 1/2 wave radial thing throw you for a loop... Cheers, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Italy Customs Duties
On 15/06/06, Stewart Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Wow ! I shall now stop complaining about the UK customs. Maybe Elecraft should set up in the EU... You can buy Elecraft stuff in Germany: http://www.qrpproject.de/ It is a little more expensive than ordering from USA+shipping, but you can at least be assured not to fall into the claws of the customs, and, in my case, avoid paying 25% Danish VAT. 73 Stewart G3RXQ 73 Alex OZ9AEC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: UK import duty
When I got my first K2, I had to pay 10% of valve (~$75AUS) at the post office before I could collect it. I was told this was applicable for all imported items above $500AUS. When I got my second K2 earlier this year I also expected to have to pay the same amount, but was informed by the local postmaster, that customs couldn't be bothered to collect the money on postal items anymore, and I didn't have to pay a thing. Obviously the Australian government are ripping us off enough in income tax, to not have to worry about VAT on imports.. David, Vk2NU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS - K2 top cover with KAT2 7 KIO2
I just installed the 100 watt option in my basic K2(# 4472) and have no use for the top copy with the KAT2 20w tuner and KIO2 rs-232 interface, fully wired with speaker, etc. Price 190 plus shipping. Jerry, N2UZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] re Italy Customs Duties
Snip Wow ! I shall now stop complaining about the UK customs. Maybe Elecraft should set up in the EU... 73 Stewart G3RXQ err Hate to tell you this Stewart! http://www.qrpproject.de/UK/indexuk.html regards John M0CDL.. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: June 16 - July 17, 2006
~~ N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR June 16 - July 17, 2006 ~~ Summer FOX Hunt - QRP 20M CW UTC: Every Fri, June 16 thru August 18, 0100z to 0229z EDT: Every Thur, June 15 thru August 17, 9 PM to 1029 PM Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/ ~~ West Virginia QSO Party (SSB/CW)... QRP Category Jun 17, 1600z to Jun 18, 0200z Rules: http://www.qsl.net/wvsarc/ ~~ AGCW VHF/UHF CW Contest ... QRP Category Jun 17, 1600z to 1900z (144 Mhz) Jun 17, 1900z to 2100z (432 Mhz) Rules: http://www.agcw.org/agcw-con/2006/Englisch/agcw-dl0_e.htm ~~ Quebec QSO Party (All) ... QRP Category Jun 17, 1700z to Jun 18, 0300z Rules: http://www.raqi.ca/qqp/regs.html ~~ RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST *** EDT: Jun 18, 9 PM to 11 PM UTC: Jun 19, 0100z 0300z Rules: http://fpqrp.com ~~ NAQCC Straight Key/Bug mW Sprint (CW) *** QRPp CONTEST *** Jun 20, 7PM to 8PM LOCAL Time Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/sprint200606_special.html ~~ ARRL Field Day (CW/SSB/RTTY)... QRP Category Jun 24, 1800z to Jun 25, 2100z Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/rules/2006/rules-fd-2006.html ~~ QRP ARCI Milliwatt Field Day (ALL)... QRP Contest! Jun 24, 1800z to Jun 25, 2100z Rules: http://www.qrparci.org ~~ RAC Canada Day Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category Jul 1, z to 2359z Rules: http://www.rac.ca/service/infocont.htm "RUN WITH RAC" for more awards from QRP-Canada See http://www.qrp-canada.com/ ~~ Original QRP Contest (CW) ... QRP Contest! Jul 1, 1500z to Jul 2, 1500z Rules: http://www.qrpcc.de/contestrules/oqrpr.html ~~ Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest! Jul 4, 0100z to 0300z(First Monday 9 PM EDT) Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/ ~~ MI QRP Fourth of July Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest! Jul 4, 2300z to Jul 5, 0300z Rules: http://www.qsl.net/miqrpclub/contest.html ~~ VK/trans-Tasman Contests (160m Ph) ... QRP Category Jul 8, 0800z to 1400z Rules: http://home.primus.com.au/vktasman/ ~~ IARU HF World Championship (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category Jul 8, 1200z to Jul 9, 1200z Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2006 ~~ FISTS Summer Sprint (CW) ... QRP Category Jul 8, 1700z to 2100z Rules: http://www.fists.org/sprints.html ~~ QRP ARCI Summer Homebrew Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest! Jul 9, 2000z to 2400z Rules: http://www.qrparci.org ~~ North American QSO Party (RTTY) /QRP Entries Noted Jul 15, 1800Z to Jul 16, 0600Z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/naqprules.php ~~ CQ WW VHF Contest (All, 6 & 2 Meters) ... QRP (10W) Category Jul 15, 1800z to Jul 16, 2100z Rules: http://www.cq-amateur-radio.com/awards.html ~~ RSGB Low Power Field Day (CW) ...QRP Contest! Jul 16, 0900z to 1200z Jul 16, 1300z to 1600z Rules: http://www.contesting.co.uk/hfcc/calendar.shtml ~~ Colorado Gold Rush (20 mtr CW QRP) ... QRP Contest July 16, 2000z to 2200z Rules: http://www.cqc.org/contests/ ~~ RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST *** EDT: Jul 16, 9 PM to 11 PM UTC: Jul 17, 0100z 0300z Rules: http://fpqrp.com ~~ Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL) and others for assistance in compiling this calendar. Please foreward the contest info you sponsor to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and we will post it and give it more publicity. Anyone may use this "N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar" for your website, newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose. (Include a credit to the source of this material of course.) 72 de Ken Newman - N2CQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.amqrp.org/contesting/contesting.html http://www.n3epa.org/Pages/Contest/contest.htm ___ Elecraft
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Italy Customs Duties
Wow ! I shall now stop complaining about the UK customs. Maybe Elecraft should set up in the EU... 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Thu, 15 Jun 2006 10:36:05 +0200 (CEST), Peppino Berria wrote: > Hi Gents, > > First of all I believe it's wrong to talk about EU > customs: Italy makes the difference! Look here: > 1) Back in oct 2004 my K2 kit plus options came from > Elecraft under codes 8525-2099-00 and 8529-9040-00. > Total amount US$ 1.719,03 (shipping and hand. $105 > included). Italy customs changed codes as > "transmitting apparatous + other apparatous" and > charged on it EU.280,77 (VAT, excise,fees and more)!! > I remember when talking about it on air some english > and german hams answered me: "IT'S A ROBBERY!!!" > 2) Back in jan. 2005 my soldering 808 kit came from > Tequipment: total amount US$ 235 (175+60 shipping). > Italy customs charged on it Eu.87,74 coding as "parts > of machines and soldering apparatous". > I could continue but I believe it's enough and don't > try to decode italian customs mistery!!!. > Regards, Peppino IS0YPS > > > Chiacchiera con i tuoi amici in tempo reale! > http://it.yahoo.com/mail_it/foot/*http://it.messenger.yahoo.com > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Italy Customs Duties
Hi Gents, First of all I believe it's wrong to talk about EU customs: Italy makes the difference! Look here: 1) Back in oct 2004 my K2 kit plus options came from Elecraft under codes 8525-2099-00 and 8529-9040-00. Total amount US$ 1.719,03 (shipping and hand. $105 included). Italy customs changed codes as "transmitting apparatous + other apparatous" and charged on it EU.280,77 (VAT, excise,fees and more)!! I remember when talking about it on air some english and german hams answered me: "IT'S A ROBBERY!!!" 2) Back in jan. 2005 my soldering 808 kit came from Tequipment: total amount US$ 235 (175+60 shipping). Italy customs charged on it Eu.87,74 coding as "parts of machines and soldering apparatous". I could continue but I believe it's enough and don't try to decode italian customs mistery!!!. Regards, Peppino IS0YPS Chiacchiera con i tuoi amici in tempo reale! http://it.yahoo.com/mail_it/foot/*http://it.messenger.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
