[Elecraft] Size of RFC15 in K2

2006-09-01 Thread Bernie Gardner
5707 passed the 'alignment and test, part 1' checks with no problem and I'm 
well into the 'Assembly, Part II' section.  I'm at the point of installing 
C91, C88 and RFC 15 on the bottom of the rf board at U4.  The manual talks 
about a miniature 100 uH choke, much smaller than the other 100 uH chokes and 
with a tan body.   I have 4 green bodied and one tan bodied 100 uH chokes as 
indicated in the parts list, but the tan bodied one is pretty close to the 
same size as the green ones, if any thing a little bigger.  I'm sure I can 
solder it to the indicated location, but is this something I should be 
concerned about?

Thanks for any advice,

Bernie Gardner
W1AZ
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: KX1 mixer discussion

2006-09-01 Thread Karl Larsen


   As you study the act of mixing, you discover it is non-linear. 
Somewhere there needs to be a non-linear device with current flowing 
through it usually caused by the LO power injected into it. That is why 
the LO needs to be a large signal.


   The bad part of a mixer is it mixes with EVERYTHING! So we put band 
pass filters in front of the mixer trying to keep unwanted signals out. 
This is not very effective.


   A double balanced mixer is just one that keeps the LO signal out of 
the mixer output, a good idea. But it doesn't effect other inputs except 
to the extent it tends to attenuate even products.


   After you go down this path you discover a mixer is a nasty thing. 
It is sure nice when you find a cheap chip that has everything you want 
in a mixer. If your designing a receiver you use it.



73 Karl K5DI




Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Thanks for the feedback, Geoff! 


I can see, intuitively, an advantage of doing the switching in the more
predictable environment of the L.O. chain instead of the signal path with
who-knows-what coming along the bandpass and feeding relatively high-gain
amplifiers after it! Especially when you're already providing a switching
square wave as the L.O. signal itself.

It reinforces my long-standing belief that mixers produce bizarre
environments, electrically, not much unlike what Alice found down the rabbit
hole!

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] mailman?

2006-09-01 Thread David A.Belsley
I just got my monthly reminder from mailman- 
[EMAIL PROTECTED].  I also got an identical message from  
[EMAIL PROTECTED], the same except the reply  
addresses have been altered.  I've never gotten this second message  
before, and I suspect it is a form of spam (or scam), but I am not  
sure what it is.  Has mailman.qth.net been hacked?  Has its mailing  
list been stolen? or what is up?  Does anyone know?


thanks,

dave belsley, w1euy



david a. belsley
professor of economics

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Re: [Elecraft] High Curr

2006-09-01 Thread Mark Bayern

You could actually have a problem anywhere between the PA transistor
collectors and the antenna jack.  ...


Just to point out the obvious ... the problem could also be _beyond_
the antenna jack.

Mark  AD5SS
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[Elecraft] NPO cap's

2006-09-01 Thread Robert Boerhorst
Tom,

You will find the NPO ceramic cap's information via Google under Capacitors 
Tutorial. Ther are four ranges: Black, Purple, Orange and Yellow. They belong 
to different values of the capacitors. I think it is a colour scheme used by 
the Dutch firm Philips.

73, 

Rob, PA0RBO
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[Elecraft] A Perspective on the Recent K2/K3 Thread

2006-09-01 Thread Lee Buller
Ladies and Gentlemen,
   
  My, there are a lot of good ideas out there for improving a product that is 
already pretty dad-gum-good...if not dad-gum-great!  
   
  The K2 in its original formis...well original.  Yes, I am defending the 
basic product and I want to make some comparisons.
   
  I would like to know the engineering time of Yaseu/Icom/Kenwood/Ten Tec in 
comparison with Elecraft.  What are the man-hours?  What was the R  D budget 
for the new 7000 - 2000 - 480 - Orion - etc., etc., etc.  Compared to E - I 
would think that the budgets of YIKT are a lot bigger.
   
  How many designers were involved?
   
  How many RF Engineers were involved?
   
  How many programmers were involved?
   
  How much technology did they incorporate that they had to licence (Rhodes  
Swartz)?
   
  I would like to know the thought process of YIKT for making their rigs self 
service - where hams can work on their own rig.  I would not even attempt that 
with my 756PROII
   
  I wonder how many of the YIKT engineers/designers/managers actually talk with 
the end user - meet them at hamfests - answer emails - and know alot of them by 
their first name?
   
  All the development was done bywhotwo guys?  Wow!  Amazing!  
Incredible!
   
  I wonder how YIKT would like to sell over 5700 units of the same model?  Now 
that would be a great deal for anyone?
   
  How many YIKT rigs have a price tag that makes your eyeballs bulg?  Yes, I 
know that a full fledge K2 - loaded to the gills - is around 1800 smackers but 
how can YIKT offer parts and pieces as you can afford them?
   
  How does YIKT (Ten Tec is really excluded) offer the incredible help in 
repair and service?
   
  As for operation, what does the K2 not do that YIKT does so much better?
   
  When, I first got my K2, I thought that the rig was a transistorized HW-101 
($259 in 1969 dollars) - but I soon realized I was wrong.  I would call the K2 
the Barry Bonds of the HW-101 - a rig on a life-time of steroids.
   
  Feature for Feature, the K2 has it all, but you have to know the rig to 
really get the operating effciency - but you have the same situation for YIKT.
   
  The RX is superb - still holds its own with the news high dollar rigs from 
YIKT.
   
  Size is small - but it was purposely designed that way!  This is a portable 
rig designed for portable operation that has become a desktop rig.  Yes, bigger 
knobs-buttons-and-do-dads would be nice (you see my ham-hock fingers trying to 
get around the rig) and it is easy to fat-finger the rig.  But, it was 
designed that way.
   
  The K2 is an engineering marvel because it is designed for the ham to build 
it and I am always amazed how much forsight was put into the engineering of the 
package to accomodate the builder.  That alone is astounding.
   
  The K2 is one of the capstone (remember, there are more capstones) of a 
engineering team, close friends, and wonderfull people who put the FUN back in 
ham radio.
   
  The E-Team has done more for HR in the last five years than YIKT.
   
  Do I want to see at K3?  Sure, but it would be hard to top the K2...and I 
look forward to seeing what the boys from Aptos (and all their cronies) come up 
with.
   
  I truely appreciate the K2 as a radio - as a work of art - and an engineering 
acomplishment that should win national awards.
   
  Lee Buller
  K0WA
   


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.
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[Elecraft] Re: A Perspective on the Recent K2/K3 Thread

2006-09-01 Thread wayne burdick

Lee Buller wrote:

Ladies and GentlemenI would call the K2 the Barry Bonds of the 
HW-101 - a rig on a life-time of steroids.


blush

Well, it was designed just down the road from San Francisco  :)

We appreciate your elegant synopsis, Lee. Thank you!

73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] For Sale HP 8640B---NOT

2006-09-01 Thread Larry - WA2DGD

Hi,

Well it looks like Murphy has struck me hard. I received a few inquiries 
regarding the HP 8640b, some requesting
pictures. So I figured I'd show the generator into a frequency counter 
and scope. I noticed some erratic readings
on the freq. counter, so I hooked up the scope and saw the amplitude was 
erratic as I switched the attenuator. Some
positions showing nothing. By touching the wafer of the attenuator 
switch (inside rear) the readings changed. Put
some deoxit on the contacts, rotated the switch, and now.No Output. 
The internal freq. counter shows its oscillating

but still no output. The AM and FM modulators still work.
So, final outcome isI cannot sell it as working, and don't have the 
skills or desire to mess with it.

I DO have the service manual on CD.
Many have asked if the attenuator works, I think so. I say this because
I disconnected the output of the RF assembly BEFORE it goes to the 
attenuator, and there is NO OUTPUT from
the RF assembly (yet the internal freq. counter shows RF and changes 
appropriately).
I will sell it AS IS with the CD manual, to the highest offer, plus 
shipping and packing.  Don't forget this is very heavy, and will require 
me to double box, etc.

Pick up can be arranged in the Newtown PA or Lawrenceville NJ areas.
I can send pictures to anyone still interested.

Sorry for any false hopes from the original message.

--
73
Larry
WA2DGD


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[Elecraft] 2.25:1 balun

2006-09-01 Thread Vicens Llario
Hi to all the crew

I am on the way of refurbishing my Lightning Bolt 2 element delta loop
and I am looking either for a spare transformer to feed it or
alternatively for a schematic diagram to homebrew the transformer. If
anybody owns one of those transformers and would be willing to part with
it, please let me know. Any comments or suggestions on how to build this
2.25:1 transformer will be welcome.
Thanks in advance and best 72

Vicenç, EA3ADV



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[Elecraft] Los Angeles County Fair Ham Radio Expo

2006-09-01 Thread Lisa Jones - Elecraft Sales
Several Southern California Hams have taken a huge project, the Amateur 
Radio Expo 2006 which is being held in conjunction with the Los Angeles 
County Fair.


Their vision is to showcase Amateur Radio in all of its forms and 
functions by providing an interactive experience for guests attending 
the Los Angeles County Fair.


It sounds like a wonderful project and lots of work! They have been 
given a large space to set up all kinds of events. Check out their 
website-  http://lafair.b2v.org/ for more information.


Elecraft is sending down literature and mini-modules for a building 
demonstration.


They are looking for ideas to attract and excite people (focus on  kids) 
to Ham Radio - especially interactive projects.


If you have any bright ideas or would like volunteer to help out you may 
contact:


Co-Chair: Joy Matlack, KD6FJV[EMAIL PROTECTED]

The fair starts next weekend and runs for 4 weeks so there is lots of 
opportunity to help out and/or contribute ideas.


Lisa
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[Elecraft] First QSO for 5703

2006-09-01 Thread Bill Carpenter
I just finished my first QSO with K9CM on 14M.  What a great rig and I still 
need to align the filters better and of course start building all the 
accessories ending with the KPA100.  For now, I think I'll play with the rig 
for a while and start on the other stuff in a week or so.


Thanks to all who listed suggestions that helped me find all my dumb errors!

73,

Bill NZ0T 



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RE: [Elecraft] 2.25:1 balun

2006-09-01 Thread Don Wilhelm
Vicenc,

For an impedance transformation of 2.25:1, you need a turns ratio of 1.5:1.
You will have to determine the minimum and maximum number of turns required
from the core data and the impedance it will connect to.  As a general rule,
you need about 5 times the impedance in the winding as you have in the load.
Of course the wire size and core size must be adequate to handle whatever
power you will subject it to.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I am on the way of refurbishing my Lightning Bolt 2 element delta loop
 and I am looking either for a spare transformer to feed it or
 alternatively for a schematic diagram to homebrew the transformer. If
 anybody owns one of those transformers and would be willing to part with
 it, please let me know. Any comments or suggestions on how to build this
 2.25:1 transformer will be welcome.
 Thanks in advance and best 72

 Vicenç, EA3ADV



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[Elecraft] K2-no power output

2006-09-01 Thread Gary Marks
I just finished installing the KDPS2 boards and they check out OK. I also have 
the KAT2 installed and it was working.

I was going to operate today for the first time but when pressing TUNE, I'm 
not getting any power out. I have an external watt meter too. When I press 
TUNE, I see Atu on the right side of the LCD then it quickly flashes to 1.0-1 
on the left side , then displays Lo  P. I've changed bands and frequency's up  
down but do not here the relays in the antenna tuner clicking as before. I 
went through the various relays through the MENU and I can here each individual 
relay click just as I did when first testing the KAT2 option. Nothing on CW 
or SSB. I switched to ANT2 which is my Elecraft Dummy Load with the same thing 
happening so it isn't a problem with the antenna.

The KAT2 manual says that when this happens to increase the power which I did 
in steps up to 15 watts with no change.   Am I missing a setting or 
does the KDSP2 board have something to do with this. I believe I installed the 
top cover correctly and have all the wires connected after installing the DSP 
boards.

Any suggestions ?

THANKS.Gary  WD8ICX
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RE: [Elecraft] K2-no power output

2006-09-01 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Are you by any chance in TEST mode??

If so the c and the underline on the display will be blinking and you'll
get no power output. 

Hold the MODE button to return to normal operation. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
I just finished installing the KDPS2 boards and they check out OK. I also
have the KAT2 installed and it was working.

I was going to operate today for the first time but when pressing TUNE,
I'm not getting any power out. I have an external watt meter too. When I
press TUNE, I see Atu on the right side of the LCD then it quickly flashes
to 1.0-1 on the left side , then displays Lo  P. I've changed bands and
frequency's up  down but do not here the relays in the antenna tuner
clicking as before. I went through the various relays through the MENU and
I can here each individual relay click just as I did when first testing
the KAT2 option. Nothing on CW or SSB. I switched to ANT2 which is my
Elecraft Dummy Load with the same thing happening so it isn't a problem with
the antenna.

The KAT2 manual says that when this happens to increase the power which I
did in steps up to 15 watts with no change.   Am I missing a setting
or does the KDSP2 board have something to do with this. I believe I
installed the top cover correctly and have all the wires connected after
installing the DSP boards.

Any suggestions ?

THANKS.Gary  WD8ICX ___

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RE: [Elecraft] K2-no power output

2006-09-01 Thread Don Wilhelm
Gary,

This problem has nothing to do directly with the installation of the KDSP2.
Think of whatever else you may have accidently touched - the KAT2 cables are
a relevant example.

Remove the KAT2 and feed the K2 directly into a 50 ohm dummy load - when you
press TUNE you should see the output power displayed (and it will be
accurate if you have a good 50 ohm dummy load).  That will tell you if the
K2 is capable of producing the required power output.

If you do see the proper power output with the ATU disconnected, look for
the problem with the ATU.  Check your K2 to KAT2 coaxial cable carefully to
be certain the pins are properly seated and the wires for the coax are not
broken at either end - sometimes they will break with a bit of flexing if
they are not properly soldered.

If you get no output with the ATU disconnected, then prepare yourself for
the Transmit Signal Tracing that is detailed in the Troubleshooting section
of the manual.  You will need the RF Probe assembled (or an oscilloscope
with a 10X probe) for that testing.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I just finished installing the KDPS2 boards and they check out
 OK. I also have the KAT2 installed and it was working.

 I was going to operate today for the first time but when
 pressing TUNE, I'm not getting any power out. I have an external
 watt meter too. When I press TUNE, I see Atu on the right side of
 the LCD then it quickly flashes to 1.0-1 on the left side , then
 displays Lo  P. I've changed bands and frequency's up  down but
 do not here the relays in the antenna tuner clicking as before.
 I went through the various relays through the MENU and I can here
 each individual relay click just as I did when first testing
 the KAT2 option. Nothing on CW or SSB. I switched to ANT2 which
 is my Elecraft Dummy Load with the same thing happening so it
 isn't a problem with the antenna.

 The KAT2 manual says that when this happens to increase the power
 which I did in steps up to 15 watts with no change.   Am
 I missing a setting or does the KDSP2 board have something to do
 with this. I believe I installed the top cover correctly and have
 all the wires connected after installing the DSP boards.

 Any suggestions ?

 THANKS.Gary  WD8ICX


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[Elecraft] Rigblaster Pro RF issue

2006-09-01 Thread Bill Allen
Sorry that is not a directly K2 related question, but this list has more ham
brains located in one place than any other place I know.  I have always
appreciated the help I have found here from the members.

I am running a RIGblaster Pro with my K2.  Under QRP conditions, I have no
problems.  However, on 40m  80m QRO with an external amp, I am finding that
I am getting serious RF getting back into the rigblaster.  I have isolated
it to the rigblaster's microphone cable that connects the K2 to the
rigblaster.  I am certain this is the path of the RF because I can replace
the rigblaster mic cable with the K2s regular microphone and use its PTT and
couple the sound from my headphones into the mic and get transmit without
the RF crap on output.  My question is this.  What is the best way to
eliminate the RF on the rigblaster's mic cable?  Would several ferrite beads
do the job?  Anyone else ever have this problem or have suggestions?

73, Bill Allen  WA5PB



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RE: [Elecraft] Rigblaster Pro RF issue

2006-09-01 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bill,

The very best way to combat RF Feedback is to eliminate it at its source -
the antenna.  Balanced resonant antennas with a balun at the feedpoint
usually are no problem.  Balanced fed non-resonant antennas with careful
consideration to the run of the parallel feedline away from the antenna are
not usually a problem either.  Offcenter fed antennas and end fed wires are
difficult to tame, as are balanced antennas having a high impedance
feedpoint at the shack end of the feedline.  Vertiacal with an adequate
ground system are usually tame, but verticals with an inadequate ground or
resonant ground plane suffer from the same RF-in-the-shack problems as end
fed wires.

All that being said, one can experiment with counterpoise wires at the shack
end to determine if the RF is really the problem.  Cut a quarterwavelength
wire for the band to be tested and attach one end to the tuner or amplifier
ground - the far end is open circuit, just like the end of an antenna - it
will contain high RF Voltages, so be certain it is in the clear and out of
contact range of humans and pets.

If the counterpoise wire solves the problem, it can be used permanently, or
one can vow to solve the real problem in the antenna system.

In addition to considerations at the antenna system, be certain the mic jack
is grounded, and be certain a shielded cable is used between the RigBlaster
and the transceiver - that may or may not help.  Often grounding only one
end of the cable shield will help - experiment to determine which end is
more effective, but usually the end connected to the transceiver is the one
to ground.

Be certain you have not negated the ground isolation between the computer
and the transceiver with your connections to the RigBlaster - there are many
'sneak' ground paths that can exist, do not ignore any of them.  If you
extend the transceiver ground area to other cables and the computer that is
just more area for stray RF to impinge upon and cause trouble.  Suspect
everything until it can be eliminated from th esuspect list.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-
 Sorry that is not a directly K2 related question, but this list
 has more ham
 brains located in one place than any other place I know.  I have always
 appreciated the help I have found here from the members.

 I am running a RIGblaster Pro with my K2.  Under QRP conditions, I have no
 problems.  However, on 40m  80m QRO with an external amp, I am
 finding that
 I am getting serious RF getting back into the rigblaster.  I have isolated
 it to the rigblaster's microphone cable that connects the K2 to the
 rigblaster.  I am certain this is the path of the RF because I can replace
 the rigblaster mic cable with the K2s regular microphone and use
 its PTT and
 couple the sound from my headphones into the mic and get transmit without
 the RF crap on output.  My question is this.  What is the best way to
 eliminate the RF on the rigblaster's mic cable?  Would several
 ferrite beads
 do the job?  Anyone else ever have this problem or have suggestions?

 73, Bill Allen  WA5PB


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[Elecraft] K2 Tilt Bail Alternative

2006-09-01 Thread David Toepfer
I was looking at the Elecraft Picture Gallery
(http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/pics.htm) and at the bopttom I saw a
couple of pics of DL2DE's K2
(http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/pics.htm,
http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/newpics5/dl2de_k2side.jpg) with some
sort of flip feet that I would like to get a pair of for my future K1.  Does
anyone know where I could get a pair of these?

David, k3tue
.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Tilt Bail Alternative

2006-09-01 Thread David Toepfer
http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/pics.htm
http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/newpics5/dl2de_K2.JPG
http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/newpics5/dl2de_k2side.jpg

--- David Toepfer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I was looking at the Elecraft Picture Gallery
 (http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/pics.htm) and at the bopttom I saw
 a
 couple of pics of DL2DE's K2
 (http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/pics.htm,
 http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/newpics5/dl2de_k2side.jpg) with some
 sort of flip feet that I would like to get a pair of for my future K1.  Does
 anyone know where I could get a pair of these?
 
 David, k3tue
 .
 
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