Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter
Jeff, That is normal behavior - the power will climb a bit if left in TUNE for a period of time. It is mostly the result of heating in the PA transistors. In normal operation, either with CW or SSB, there is not a constant carrier being transmitted and the same conditions will not be present. Do not leave the K2 in TUNE at high power for any significant length of time - remember that TUNE is transmitting at a 100% duty cycle. OK for short bursts, but not good for longer periods. The base K2 shoud be limited to 5 watts or less for a 100% duty cycle transmission and to 35 watts or less with the KPA100. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Hi Don, Thanks for the replies. To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load. I set the base K2 (without KPA100 connected) to 5.0W, and then TUNE, and it starts at 5.0W and heads upwards to 5.7-6.0W (read from the display, as well as the S-meter). After about 10 seconds in TUNE, it's up to 5.7 or 6W and the next LED on the S-meter is starting to flicker some. Moving the power knob will allow me to bring it back to 5.0W, but the next TUNE will see the power climb back up again. I'm not sure if I should still be looking on the RF board at this point, or start focusing on the control board...? Thanks, 73, Jeff On 4/22/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, Another thought and a question - does the K2 control power properly (check with TUNE) when the requested power is set to 5 watts? If you get somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 watts output with the requested power set to 5, then the power control circuits are working as they should be. Setting the power to maximum will not readily reveal any problems with the power control. OTOH, if the power output is always high then you do have a problem in the power control (ALC) loop. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Don and others, A few weeks back, a user posted about an issue with low power output with his K2. Don said: If you do not have either the KAT2, the KPA100, or the KAT100 installed, the K2 does not display the actual power output on the LCD (the requested power is displayed briefly when the power control is changed). What is the indication on the LED bargraph during transmit? I'm going through an issue with my K2 where it *appears* to be putting out too much power. With the KPA100 installed, the output sometimes jumps up to 150+W. I removed the KPA100 from the picture and have been seeing if I can reproduce higher than normal output with just the base K2. So far, the behavior is that if I enter TUNE mode, the indicated power on the display of the K2 will rise to 16-17W. My watt meter isn't accurate enough to tell me what it's *really* putting out though, although with the KPA100 it is accurate enough to see the 150W+ peaks. So I was trying to think if it's really putting out 16+W, or if the power meter is really telling me it's TRYING to put it out (because my external wattmeter looks like actually less, but again not accurate). I also thought maybe it's an ALC issue, because if I rotate the power knob back then back up to max, the indicated power on the K2 will go to about 15W, but the next time I do TUNE again, it again goes back up to 16+W. Any thoughts on this? Should I keep chasing ALC issues? I've already gone through the base K2 RF board resoldering T1-T4, reheating anything that looks suspect, etc. to no avail. I also sent something to this effect to [EMAIL PROTECTED], I'm just hoping someone might have any ideas that I could chase down. Thanks, Jeff ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: K2 Purchase - opinions?
Adding options to the K2 is, generally speaking, very easy, and the order doesn't matter a whole lot. There is one exception: some of the options require parts to be placed on the back portion of the board. The power transisters use the bottom back panel as a heat sink, and they are assembled as a stack of transistor, washer, and heat transfer pad -- the assembly is not too bad on initial assembly, but trickier to dismantle and reassemble. It may require replacement of the pad. So, there is a big advantage in putting the connectors (and a few capacitors) in place to make ready for future options. The parts are described in the main K2 manual, but are only supplied in the option kits. (The re-work eliminators are also available, which add jumpers to make removing options easier.) Four of the options you list put something on the back part of the board, so would require removing and replacing the heat sink if you don't have the kits at hand on initial assembly. Don Wilhelm says that the KIO2 and KAT2 have no board headers, but he slipped here -- there's a socket for the KAT2 that just tucks in behind the heat sink. The KAT2 is such a good option, maybe that socket could just be sent along in the main kit, for people like me who don't look far enough ahead? Peter N8MHD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter
David, If your amp only requires 30 watts for full drive AND it is truly linear, you should be able to tune it successfully with a 5 to 10 watt input where the power is a bit more steady and then increase the level to obtain full output. Just a suggestion. If the variation is quite bothersome, your K2/100 may be a candidate for increasing the value of R98 (on the bottom of the RF Board) to slow down the power variation. If you increase it too much, the power output on the higher bands may decrease (check that with the basic K2, not with the KPA100 powered). In most cases, about 1k is the upper limit for the value, but if your K2 has greater gain than the average, you may find success with even higher values. It is easiest to substitute a 2k pot for R98 when testing for the best value, then measure the pot resistance and put in the nearest fixed value resistor. This procedure is listed on the Elecraft website - in Builder's Resources IIRC. 73, Don W3FPR David Douglass wrote: Jeff, This variation in power out during tuning seems quite normal to me, and my K2(100) does exactly the same.. It never used to bother me but I recently bought a Emtron DX-1 amp, and it makes tuning the amp pretty tricky.. I only need about 30w to drive the amp to full output, but during tune up the power out from K2/100 will creep up and trip out the Overdrive on the amp. It would be nice to just dial up the required power from the K2 you wanted and get it, but I suppose I'll just have to live with this little quirk. I still wouldn't trade K2 for another radio!! David, VK2NU Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2007 20:50:38 -0700 From: Jeff Kinzli N6GQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft Mail Posting elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Hi Don, Thanks for the replies. To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load. I set the base K2 (without KPA100 connected) to 5.0W, and then TUNE, and it starts at 5.0W and heads upwards to 5.7-6.0W (read from the display, as well as the S-meter). After about 10 seconds in TUNE, it's up to 5.7 or 6W and the next LED on the S-meter is starting to flicker some. Moving the power knob will allow me to bring it back to 5.0W, but the next TUNE will see the power climb back up again. I'm not sure if I should still be looking on the RF board at this point, or start focusing on the control board...? Thanks, 73, Jeff No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.5.9/773 - Release Date: 22/04/2007 8:18 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K2 Purchase - opinions?
Peter, You are correct, I forgot about the connector for the KAT2 input coax (AUX RF). You will just have to chalk that one up to a 'senior moment' G. 73, Don W3FPR Peter Wollan wrote: Four of the options you list put something on the back part of the board, so would require removing and replacing the heat sink if you don't have the kits at hand on initial assembly. Don Wilhelm says that the KIO2 and KAT2 have no board headers, but he slipped here -- there's a socket for the KAT2 that just tucks in behind the heat sink. The KAT2 is such a good option, maybe that socket could just be sent along in the main kit, for people like me who don't look far enough ahead? Peter N8MHD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter
Its really confusing, so I recommend ignoring the power out of the base K2. The rig seems to measure then correct the power out, with differences between the tune function and regular key down modes. The tune function seems to calibrate the regular key down power out... The K2 measures the power output with a diode and resistor network off the output, so its looking at only voltage. Change the impedance or swr slightly and it changes the power out, and its VERY sensitive to the voltage/swr. I did some experiments with mine, changing the value of resistors and changing the load resistance making it about 48 ohms instead of 50, and both changed the power out a lot. Lower the voltage the diode measures and power output goes up. From my tests, I would guess the rig can easily put out over 15 or 20 watts on all bands, but does not because its told not to. After checking with a dummy load right on the antenna jack, I found my rig would put out between 15 and 11 watts on all bands, and the power meter would read a bit high on the higher bands, thus giving slightly lower power out as the rig THINKS its putting out more power then it is. 11 or 15 watts on 15 or 10 meters, its not enough to worry about. I also think the built in antenna tuner helps things, it may be better at measuring the actual output power or taking into account the swr or something. My KPA100 has no problems doing over 120 watts out on all bands at 13.8 volts or slightly less. Its output power jumps around some, depending on swr, and the rig sometimes puts out almost full power (with or without the KPA100) when first keyed, even if the power knob is set to a low power. With the KPA100, you can sometimes watch the power jump from what its set to up 5 or 10 watts, then back to the correct value, then down 5 or 10 watts, then back up, over and over. That does not effect things when sending CW, but people driving amps with the K2 can have a hard time of it. I think power output control in the K2 could use some redesign. I am not sure how commercial rigs do it, but they are generally stable and smooth in power output. Brett N2DTS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Kinzli N6GQ Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 11:51 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft Mail Posting Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter Hi Don, Thanks for the replies. To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load. I set the base K2 (without KPA100 connected) to 5.0W, and then TUNE, and it starts at 5.0W and heads upwards to 5.7-6.0W (read from the display, as well as the S-meter). After about 10 seconds in TUNE, it's up to 5.7 or 6W and the next LED on the S-meter is starting to flicker some. Moving the power knob will allow me to bring it back to 5.0W, but the next TUNE will see the power climb back up again. I'm not sure if I should still be looking on the RF board at this point, or start focusing on the control board...? Thanks, 73, Jeff On 4/22/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, Another thought and a question - does the K2 control power properly (check with TUNE) when the requested power is set to 5 watts? If you get somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 watts output with the requested power set to 5, then the power control circuits are working as they should be. Setting the power to maximum will not readily reveal any problems with the power control. OTOH, if the power output is always high then you do have a problem in the power control (ALC) loop. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Don and others, A few weeks back, a user posted about an issue with low power output with his K2. Don said: If you do not have either the KAT2, the KPA100, or the KAT100 installed, the K2 does not display the actual power output on the LCD (the requested power is displayed briefly when the power control is changed). What is the indication on the LED bargraph during transmit? I'm going through an issue with my K2 where it *appears* to be putting out too much power. With the KPA100 installed, the output sometimes jumps up to 150+W. I removed the KPA100 from the picture and have been seeing if I can reproduce higher than normal output with just the base K2. So far, the behavior is that if I enter TUNE mode, the indicated power on the display of the K2 will rise to 16-17W. My watt meter isn't accurate enough to tell me what it's *really* putting out though, although with the KPA100 it is accurate enough to see the 150W+ peaks. So I was trying to think if it's really putting out 16+W, or if the power meter is really telling me it's TRYING to put it out (because my external wattmeter looks like actually less, but again not accurate). I also thought maybe it's an ALC issue, because if I rotate
[Elecraft] ultracapacitor (was hammcom power supply)
Perhaps an engineer on the list can help with this... I am fascinated by the HammCom powersupply using an ultracapacitor (or supercapacitor) to deal with intermitten power demand of CW. It must be a simple task to add such a thing to, say, an Astron RS12 power supply so that it would handle the CW demands of a KPA-100 in CW or SSB mode. Used Astron RS12 are all over eBay for in the order of twenty dollars. Exactly how might this be done??? 73, Fred kt5x ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter
Thanks Don and others for the answers. In my case, I'm trying to run down a proble where the KPA100 will be fine, then all of a sudden it's output will jump up over 140W. I thought that the high output in the base K2 might be the cause. So are we saying that some variation is ok, and once in a while if the KPA100 gets up over 150W then we're ok? This is not apparently an oscillation issue, as I don't see high SWRs. Thanks, Jeff On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, That is normal behavior - the power will climb a bit if left in TUNE for a period of time. It is mostly the result of heating in the PA transistors. In normal operation, either with CW or SSB, there is not a constant carrier being transmitted and the same conditions will not be present. Do not leave the K2 in TUNE at high power for any significant length of time - remember that TUNE is transmitting at a 100% duty cycle. OK for short bursts, but not good for longer periods. The base K2 shoud be limited to 5 watts or less for a 100% duty cycle transmission and to 35 watts or less with the KPA100. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Hi Don, Thanks for the replies. To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load. I set the base K2 (without KPA100 connected) to 5.0W, and then TUNE, and it starts at 5.0W and heads upwards to 5.7-6.0W (read from the display, as well as the S-meter). After about 10 seconds in TUNE, it's up to 5.7 or 6W and the next LED on the S-meter is starting to flicker some. Moving the power knob will allow me to bring it back to 5.0W, but the next TUNE will see the power climb back up again. I'm not sure if I should still be looking on the RF board at this point, or start focusing on the control board...? Thanks, 73, Jeff On 4/22/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, Another thought and a question - does the K2 control power properly (check with TUNE) when the requested power is set to 5 watts? If you get somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 watts output with the requested power set to 5, then the power control circuits are working as they should be. Setting the power to maximum will not readily reveal any problems with the power control. OTOH, if the power output is always high then you do have a problem in the power control (ALC) loop. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Don and others, A few weeks back, a user posted about an issue with low power output with his K2. Don said: If you do not have either the KAT2, the KPA100, or the KAT100 installed, the K2 does not display the actual power output on the LCD (the requested power is displayed briefly when the power control is changed). What is the indication on the LED bargraph during transmit? I'm going through an issue with my K2 where it *appears* to be putting out too much power. With the KPA100 installed, the output sometimes jumps up to 150+W. I removed the KPA100 from the picture and have been seeing if I can reproduce higher than normal output with just the base K2. So far, the behavior is that if I enter TUNE mode, the indicated power on the display of the K2 will rise to 16-17W. My watt meter isn't accurate enough to tell me what it's *really* putting out though, although with the KPA100 it is accurate enough to see the 150W+ peaks. So I was trying to think if it's really putting out 16+W, or if the power meter is really telling me it's TRYING to put it out (because my external wattmeter looks like actually less, but again not accurate). I also thought maybe it's an ALC issue, because if I rotate the power knob back then back up to max, the indicated power on the K2 will go to about 15W, but the next time I do TUNE again, it again goes back up to 16+W. Any thoughts on this? Should I keep chasing ALC issues? I've already gone through the base K2 RF board resoldering T1-T4, reheating anything that looks suspect, etc. to no avail. I also sent something to this effect to [EMAIL PROTECTED], I'm just hoping someone might have any ideas that I could chase down. Thanks, Jeff ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to
Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter
Jeff, If you are saying that you see an occasional jump from 120 watts power to 140 or even 160, I would say that *MAY* be possible, but if it jumps from 50 (or even 80) watts to 160, then you do have a problem - and my first reaction is that it is an indication of a transient oscillation. How long does the power stay at 160 watts? Is this on 40 meters, or does it occur on all bands? What level is your KPA100? If it has RFC10 installed and the L15 position has a toroid and L16 has a toroid with a red core - you do not have the latest update - that update was designed to combat a parasitic on 40 meters. In your case, I would recommend the KPA100UPKT if it is not already installed just to be rid of the possibility that the 40 meter parasitic is what is causing your problem. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Thanks Don and others for the answers. In my case, I'm trying to run down a proble where the KPA100 will be fine, then all of a sudden it's output will jump up over 140W. I thought that the high output in the base K2 might be the cause. So are we saying that some variation is ok, and once in a while if the KPA100 gets up over 150W then we're ok? This is not apparently an oscillation issue, as I don't see high SWRs. Thanks, Jeff On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, That is normal behavior - the power will climb a bit if left in TUNE for a period of time. It is mostly the result of heating in the PA transistors. In normal operation, either with CW or SSB, there is not a constant carrier being transmitted and the same conditions will not be present. Do not leave the K2 in TUNE at high power for any significant length of time - remember that TUNE is transmitting at a 100% duty cycle. OK for short bursts, but not good for longer periods. The base K2 shoud be limited to 5 watts or less for a 100% duty cycle transmission and to 35 watts or less with the KPA100. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Hi Don, Thanks for the replies. To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load. I set the base K2 (without KPA100 connected) to 5.0W, and then TUNE, and it starts at 5.0W and heads upwards to 5.7-6.0W (read from the display, as well as the S-meter). After about 10 seconds in TUNE, it's up to 5.7 or 6W and the next LED on the S-meter is starting to flicker some. Moving the power knob will allow me to bring it back to 5.0W, but the next TUNE will see the power climb back up again. I'm not sure if I should still be looking on the RF board at this point, or start focusing on the control board...? Thanks, 73, Jeff On 4/22/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, Another thought and a question - does the K2 control power properly (check with TUNE) when the requested power is set to 5 watts? If you get somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 watts output with the requested power set to 5, then the power control circuits are working as they should be. Setting the power to maximum will not readily reveal any problems with the power control. OTOH, if the power output is always high then you do have a problem in the power control (ALC) loop. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Don and others, A few weeks back, a user posted about an issue with low power output with his K2. Don said: If you do not have either the KAT2, the KPA100, or the KAT100 installed, the K2 does not display the actual power output on the LCD (the requested power is displayed briefly when the power control is changed). What is the indication on the LED bargraph during transmit? I'm going through an issue with my K2 where it *appears* to be putting out too much power. With the KPA100 installed, the output sometimes jumps up to 150+W. I removed the KPA100 from the picture and have been seeing if I can reproduce higher than normal output with just the base K2. So far, the behavior is that if I enter TUNE mode, the indicated power on the display of the K2 will rise to 16-17W. My watt meter isn't accurate enough to tell me what it's *really* putting out though, although with the KPA100 it is accurate enough to see the 150W+ peaks. So I was trying to think if it's really putting out 16+W, or if the power meter is really telling me it's TRYING to put it out (because my external wattmeter looks like actually less, but again not accurate). I also thought maybe it's an ALC issue, because if I rotate the power knob back then back up to max, the indicated power on the K2 will go to about 15W, but the next time I do TUNE again, it again goes back up to 16+W. Any thoughts on this? Should I keep chasing ALC issues? I've already gone through the base K2 RF board resoldering T1-T4, reheating anything that looks suspect, etc. to no avail. I also sent something to this effect to [EMAIL PROTECTED], I'm just hoping someone might have any ideas that I could chase down.
[Elecraft] Problem with KPA100 - HiCurr
Dear all, After a lot of checking and checking I still have this problem. I removed T4 and did dubble check. I did replace the coax cable by a teflon coax cable. I did set R26 and R27 to 43K. Sometimes when turning C1 it is possible to set 1.0-1 but than it reduces the power to 0 watts. After switching off and on again the display is saying Hi Curr again. Any other suggestions? 73, Koert PA1KW - HAMRADIO - when everything else fails! Koert Wilmink wrote: Dear all, I just finished my KPA100. I do have the following problem with the first steps connecting the KPA100 to my K2 #05618. I've connected the ribbon cable, speaker and RF connector to my K2. I've got audio and I also receive stations when I connect my antenna. With my dummy load and after setting power to 5Watts on 40M I see the 5 watts and the SWR for 1 second in the LCD screen and then the HiCur (High current) appears on the LCD.On 20m bands I only see the PWR in the LCD screen without the SWR for 1 second and than I see HiRefl. On 10M I do see the pwr and the SWR! The latter I only get 2.1 watts when set to 5 watts. Please can somebody tell me where to start? I did check the connections and this seems to be ok. There is no pwr to the KPA100 so everything is bypassed, except the bandfilters? help is very much appreciated!. 73, Koert PA1KW - HAMRADIO - when everything else fails! K2 # 05618 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 RS-232 Noise
Hi all.. I've just completed the initial testing and alignment on the KPA100. Everything checks out fine. All resistance and voltage measurements are within spec and I'm getting 100+ watts out on all bands. However I'm getting some annoying noise from the RS-232. My software polls the K2 every 250ms (4 times per second) and it generates noise on all bands every time it's polled. It's coming through load and clear. It wasn't there with the KIO2, so I suspect I may have a problem somewhere in the KPA100 RS-232 circuitry. Is this a known problem, or do I have something wrong? I can't find anything searching the archives. Thanks.. -David W4SMT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RS-232 Noise
David Fleming wrote: I've just completed the initial testing and alignment on the KPA100. Everything checks out fine. All resistance and voltage measurements are within spec and I'm getting 100+ watts out on all bands. However I'm getting some annoying noise from the RS-232. My software polls the K2 every 250ms (4 times per second) and it generates noise on all bands every time it's polled. It's coming through load and clear. It wasn't there with the KIO2, so I suspect I may have a problem somewhere in the KPA100 RS-232 circuitry. Is this a known problem, or do I have something wrong? I can't find anything searching the archives. The dress of the flat ribbon cable that goes to the KPA100 can have an effect on noise pickup. Try bunching it up close to the plug on the control board and see if this helps. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 RS-232 Noise
I once had this problem too. I traced the problem to the routing of the ribbon cable from the K2 to the KPA100. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Fleming Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:56 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 RS-232 Noise Hi all.. I've just completed the initial testing and alignment on the KPA100. Everything checks out fine. All resistance and voltage measurements are within spec and I'm getting 100+ watts out on all bands. However I'm getting some annoying noise from the RS-232. My software polls the K2 every 250ms (4 times per second) and it generates noise on all bands every time it's polled. It's coming through load and clear. It wasn't there with the KIO2, so I suspect I may have a problem somewhere in the KPA100 RS-232 circuitry. Is this a known problem, or do I have something wrong? I can't find anything searching the archives. Thanks.. -David W4SMT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] binocular question on W1
Hi, Just picked up my first three Elecraft kits, the W1, W1SERKT, and the DL1. I finished the DL1 this past weekend and just completed the W1SERKT a few minutes ago after doing much of the work on the W1. I stopped working on the W1 when I got to winding the magnet wire on the binocular because I have a question. For those of you who have built the W1, please offer some clarification for me. Winding the binocular is just like winding a toroid, no? For example, when I make the first loop through one of the binocular holes I have actually put the wire through twice which should count as two of my ten times through the hole. Just want to make sure I'm counting correctly as I don't want to built the kit twice. Thanks! -john W4PAH P.S. Can't wait until the custom enclosure is finished up by W8FGU. Thanks also to AG4NN for passing along the PDF of his enclosure as well. Quite impressive. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 RS-232 Noise
From David W4SMT However I'mgetting some annoying noise from the RS-232. My software polls the K2 every 250ms (4 times per second) and it generates noise on all bands every time it's polled. Hello David, Did you left the frequency counter test cable connected to TP2 (BFO)? 73 de Pierre VE2PID ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RS-232 Noise
Did you left the frequency counter test cable connected to TP2 (BFO)? 73 de Pierre VE2PID uhh..YES, I did leave the freq counter cable. Is that the problem? I'm at work right now and can't test it. I'll also try repositioning the ribbon cable as others have suggested. Thanks to all that responded on and off list. -David, W4SMT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] binocular question on W1
Think of it as two long toroids side by side. The two sides are treated as two transformers and wound separately. You count turns the same way, ie. a pass through the hole counts as a turn. If you count turns on the outside edge, you will count 1 less. A 10 turn winding will have 9 turns on the outside and 10 turns on the inside. Larry N8LP John Shadle wrote: Hi, Just picked up my first three Elecraft kits, the W1, W1SERKT, and the DL1. I finished the DL1 this past weekend and just completed the W1SERKT a few minutes ago after doing much of the work on the W1. I stopped working on the W1 when I got to winding the magnet wire on the binocular because I have a question. For those of you who have built the W1, please offer some clarification for me. Winding the binocular is just like winding a toroid, no? For example, when I make the first loop through one of the binocular holes I have actually put the wire through twice which should count as two of my ten times through the hole. Just want to make sure I'm counting correctly as I don't want to built the kit twice. Thanks! -john W4PAH P.S. Can't wait until the custom enclosure is finished up by W8FGU. Thanks also to AG4NN for passing along the PDF of his enclosure as well. Quite impressive. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 RS-232 Noise
Hi Pierre.. YES, I did leave the freq counter cable. Is that the problem? I'm at work right now and can't test it. Thanks.. David, W4SMT David, I just wanted to know if your cable was still in place before opening my K2. I have the same noise problem, especially on 20 m, and guessed that the cable was the cause of it. So, I just removed the counter cable.. (and changed the ribbon's position), but that noise is still present. So, back to square one.. ?? 73 de Pierre VE2PID K2 S/N 5170 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter
Don, thanks. I do have a recently-made KPA100 (~3 months) and have installed the upgraded C31 to combat the parasitic. When in QSO, I see the power jump up, and it seems to stay there until I enter a TUNE operation or manually drop the power level via the power knob. I spend a lot of time on 40M, so that's where I usually see the problem. I do believe it happens on other bands though. If an occasional jump to 150W is ok, then I won't worry about it. I can leave the power knob lower so that the maximum power reached is less than 130W on those transients. 73, Jeff On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, If you are saying that you see an occasional jump from 120 watts power to 140 or even 160, I would say that *MAY* be possible, but if it jumps from 50 (or even 80) watts to 160, then you do have a problem - and my first reaction is that it is an indication of a transient oscillation. How long does the power stay at 160 watts? Is this on 40 meters, or does it occur on all bands? What level is your KPA100? If it has RFC10 installed and the L15 position has a toroid and L16 has a toroid with a red core - you do not have the latest update - that update was designed to combat a parasitic on 40 meters. In your case, I would recommend the KPA100UPKT if it is not already installed just to be rid of the possibility that the 40 meter parasitic is what is causing your problem. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Thanks Don and others for the answers. In my case, I'm trying to run down a proble where the KPA100 will be fine, then all of a sudden it's output will jump up over 140W. I thought that the high output in the base K2 might be the cause. So are we saying that some variation is ok, and once in a while if the KPA100 gets up over 150W then we're ok? This is not apparently an oscillation issue, as I don't see high SWRs. Thanks, Jeff On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, That is normal behavior - the power will climb a bit if left in TUNE for a period of time. It is mostly the result of heating in the PA transistors. In normal operation, either with CW or SSB, there is not a constant carrier being transmitted and the same conditions will not be present. Do not leave the K2 in TUNE at high power for any significant length of time - remember that TUNE is transmitting at a 100% duty cycle. OK for short bursts, but not good for longer periods. The base K2 shoud be limited to 5 watts or less for a 100% duty cycle transmission and to 35 watts or less with the KPA100. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Hi Don, Thanks for the replies. To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load. I set the base K2 (without KPA100 connected) to 5.0W, and then TUNE, and it starts at 5.0W and heads upwards to 5.7-6.0W (read from the display, as well as the S-meter). After about 10 seconds in TUNE, it's up to 5.7 or 6W and the next LED on the S-meter is starting to flicker some. Moving the power knob will allow me to bring it back to 5.0W, but the next TUNE will see the power climb back up again. I'm not sure if I should still be looking on the RF board at this point, or start focusing on the control board...? Thanks, 73, Jeff On 4/22/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, Another thought and a question - does the K2 control power properly (check with TUNE) when the requested power is set to 5 watts? If you get somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 watts output with the requested power set to 5, then the power control circuits are working as they should be. Setting the power to maximum will not readily reveal any problems with the power control. OTOH, if the power output is always high then you do have a problem in the power control (ALC) loop. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Don and others, A few weeks back, a user posted about an issue with low power output with his K2. Don said: If you do not have either the KAT2, the KPA100, or the KAT100 installed, the K2 does not display the actual power output on the LCD (the requested power is displayed briefly when the power control is changed). What is the indication on the LED bargraph during transmit? I'm going through an issue with my K2 where it *appears* to be putting out too much power. With the KPA100 installed, the output sometimes jumps up to 150+W. I removed the KPA100 from the picture and have been seeing if I can reproduce higher than normal output with just the base K2. So far, the behavior is that if I enter TUNE mode, the indicated power on the display of the K2 will rise to 16-17W. My watt meter isn't accurate enough to tell me what it's *really* putting out though, although with the KPA100 it is accurate enough to see the 150W+ peaks. So I was trying to think if it's really putting out 16+W, or if the power meter
RE: [Elecraft] binocular question on W1
There's two separate windings on that binocular core, John. Each winding goes through only ONE hole in the core and around the end of the core next to the hole. So you count a always: each pass through the hole is one turn. See Figure 2 on page 6 of the manual where the text says, ...The wire passes through the hole in the core exactly 10 times (and passes down the side of the core 9 times), so turn 1 is when you first slip the wire through the hole, before you wrap it around the outside. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Shadle Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 8:20 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] binocular question on W1 Hi, Just picked up my first three Elecraft kits, the W1, W1SERKT, and the DL1. I finished the DL1 this past weekend and just completed the W1SERKT a few minutes ago after doing much of the work on the W1. I stopped working on the W1 when I got to winding the magnet wire on the binocular because I have a question. For those of you who have built the W1, please offer some clarification for me. Winding the binocular is just like winding a toroid, no? For example, when I make the first loop through one of the binocular holes I have actually put the wire through twice which should count as two of my ten times through the hole. Just want to make sure I'm counting correctly as I don't want to built the kit twice. Thanks! -john W4PAH P.S. Can't wait until the custom enclosure is finished up by W8FGU. Thanks also to AG4NN for passing along the PDF of his enclosure as well. Quite impressive. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 - Paddle computer co-exsiatence
Hello Thanks for all who advised. Problem is now solved. Had to use RTS and not DTR, and also changed the 1n4148 diodes to 1n5288 (sk). 73, Isaac ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter
Jeff, I was really asking if the power jumped to 160 watts regardless of the setting of the power control so I could better suggest where the problem might be - apparently it does not go to 160 watts if you set the power lower. That behavior is not normal, and right now I would strongly suspect that there is a bad solder connection in the KPA100 wattmeter section or in the VRFDET signal path back to the K2 microprocessor. Do the trimmer pots R26 and R27 look OK? I have found some that were damaged when soldering the transformers cores in the PA - a damaged trimmer could have an intermittent contact at the wiper and cause the results you are seeing. Check the entire path for FWD power indication from the KPA100 wattmeter to the VRFDET signal output (look at the schematic to identify the components - and don't forget about the scaling resistors and the scaling switches Q10 and Q11). Since this is an intermittent condition, it will be difficult to know when it is fixed - that is what makes intermittents so hard to deal with - try tapping on things to try to induce a failure. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Don, thanks. I do have a recently-made KPA100 (~3 months) and have installed the upgraded C31 to combat the parasitic. When in QSO, I see the power jump up, and it seems to stay there until I enter a TUNE operation or manually drop the power level via the power knob. I spend a lot of time on 40M, so that's where I usually see the problem. I do believe it happens on other bands though. If an occasional jump to 150W is ok, then I won't worry about it. I can leave the power knob lower so that the maximum power reached is less than 130W on those transients. 73, Jeff On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, If you are saying that you see an occasional jump from 120 watts power to 140 or even 160, I would say that *MAY* be possible, but if it jumps from 50 (or even 80) watts to 160, then you do have a problem - and my first reaction is that it is an indication of a transient oscillation. How long does the power stay at 160 watts? Is this on 40 meters, or does it occur on all bands? What level is your KPA100? If it has RFC10 installed and the L15 position has a toroid and L16 has a toroid with a red core - you do not have the latest update - that update was designed to combat a parasitic on 40 meters. In your case, I would recommend the KPA100UPKT if it is not already installed just to be rid of the possibility that the 40 meter parasitic is what is causing your problem. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Thanks Don and others for the answers. In my case, I'm trying to run down a proble where the KPA100 will be fine, then all of a sudden it's output will jump up over 140W. I thought that the high output in the base K2 might be the cause. So are we saying that some variation is ok, and once in a while if the KPA100 gets up over 150W then we're ok? This is not apparently an oscillation issue, as I don't see high SWRs. Thanks, Jeff On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, That is normal behavior - the power will climb a bit if left in TUNE for a period of time. It is mostly the result of heating in the PA transistors. In normal operation, either with CW or SSB, there is not a constant carrier being transmitted and the same conditions will not be present. Do not leave the K2 in TUNE at high power for any significant length of time - remember that TUNE is transmitting at a 100% duty cycle. OK for short bursts, but not good for longer periods. The base K2 shoud be limited to 5 watts or less for a 100% duty cycle transmission and to 35 watts or less with the KPA100. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Hi Don, Thanks for the replies. To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load. I set the base K2 (without KPA100 connected) to 5.0W, and then TUNE, and it starts at 5.0W and heads upwards to 5.7-6.0W (read from the display, as well as the S-meter). After about 10 seconds in TUNE, it's up to 5.7 or 6W and the next LED on the S-meter is starting to flicker some. Moving the power knob will allow me to bring it back to 5.0W, but the next TUNE will see the power climb back up again. I'm not sure if I should still be looking on the RF board at this point, or start focusing on the control board...? Thanks, 73, Jeff On 4/22/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, Another thought and a question - does the K2 control power properly (check with TUNE) when the requested power is set to 5 watts? If you get somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 watts output with the requested power set to 5, then the power control circuits are working as they should be. Setting the power to maximum will not readily reveal any problems with the power control. OTOH, if the power output is always high then you do have a problem in
Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter
Thanks Don, I'll begin looking... Jeff On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, I was really asking if the power jumped to 160 watts regardless of the setting of the power control so I could better suggest where the problem might be - apparently it does not go to 160 watts if you set the power lower. That behavior is not normal, and right now I would strongly suspect that there is a bad solder connection in the KPA100 wattmeter section or in the VRFDET signal path back to the K2 microprocessor. Do the trimmer pots R26 and R27 look OK? I have found some that were damaged when soldering the transformers cores in the PA - a damaged trimmer could have an intermittent contact at the wiper and cause the results you are seeing. Check the entire path for FWD power indication from the KPA100 wattmeter to the VRFDET signal output (look at the schematic to identify the components - and don't forget about the scaling resistors and the scaling switches Q10 and Q11). Since this is an intermittent condition, it will be difficult to know when it is fixed - that is what makes intermittents so hard to deal with - try tapping on things to try to induce a failure. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Don, thanks. I do have a recently-made KPA100 (~3 months) and have installed the upgraded C31 to combat the parasitic. When in QSO, I see the power jump up, and it seems to stay there until I enter a TUNE operation or manually drop the power level via the power knob. I spend a lot of time on 40M, so that's where I usually see the problem. I do believe it happens on other bands though. If an occasional jump to 150W is ok, then I won't worry about it. I can leave the power knob lower so that the maximum power reached is less than 130W on those transients. 73, Jeff On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, If you are saying that you see an occasional jump from 120 watts power to 140 or even 160, I would say that *MAY* be possible, but if it jumps from 50 (or even 80) watts to 160, then you do have a problem - and my first reaction is that it is an indication of a transient oscillation. How long does the power stay at 160 watts? Is this on 40 meters, or does it occur on all bands? What level is your KPA100? If it has RFC10 installed and the L15 position has a toroid and L16 has a toroid with a red core - you do not have the latest update - that update was designed to combat a parasitic on 40 meters. In your case, I would recommend the KPA100UPKT if it is not already installed just to be rid of the possibility that the 40 meter parasitic is what is causing your problem. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Thanks Don and others for the answers. In my case, I'm trying to run down a proble where the KPA100 will be fine, then all of a sudden it's output will jump up over 140W. I thought that the high output in the base K2 might be the cause. So are we saying that some variation is ok, and once in a while if the KPA100 gets up over 150W then we're ok? This is not apparently an oscillation issue, as I don't see high SWRs. Thanks, Jeff On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, That is normal behavior - the power will climb a bit if left in TUNE for a period of time. It is mostly the result of heating in the PA transistors. In normal operation, either with CW or SSB, there is not a constant carrier being transmitted and the same conditions will not be present. Do not leave the K2 in TUNE at high power for any significant length of time - remember that TUNE is transmitting at a 100% duty cycle. OK for short bursts, but not good for longer periods. The base K2 shoud be limited to 5 watts or less for a 100% duty cycle transmission and to 35 watts or less with the KPA100. 73, Don W3FPR Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote: Hi Don, Thanks for the replies. To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load. I set the base K2 (without KPA100 connected) to 5.0W, and then TUNE, and it starts at 5.0W and heads upwards to 5.7-6.0W (read from the display, as well as the S-meter). After about 10 seconds in TUNE, it's up to 5.7 or 6W and the next LED on the S-meter is starting to flicker some. Moving the power knob will allow me to bring it back to 5.0W, but the next TUNE will see the power climb back up again. I'm not sure if I should still be looking on the RF board at this point, or start focusing on the control board...? Thanks, 73, Jeff On 4/22/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jeff, Another thought and a question - does the K2 control power properly (check with TUNE) when the requested power is set to 5 watts? If you get somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 watts output with the requested power set to 5, then the power control circuits are working as they should be. Setting the power
[Elecraft] XG2 mini mod
With regards to the XG2, in addition to everything else it can do, can it also calibrate the main tuning control (VFO) of tranceivers like the NorCal 40A? I am considering purchasing an XG2 for my toolbox. I would greatly appreciate information on this. Dennis Vavra, AD5LY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re:[elecraft] Alignment and test, part 1
Hi I have got to page 42, and I have a problem. Switching on I get the INFO 080 message. Pushing DISPLAY gives me the message 2.04p 255 for a few secs. Then I get a frequency readout. Of course I have checked my soldering several times, and I've changed U1, and even tried a known good Control board. Has anyone seen this problem before. 73, Bryan GM3AKF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XG2 mini mod
Dennis, It can do that - IF and ONLY IF you first calibrate the XG2. It has trimmers to adjust the frequency of the crystal, but you will need something (calibrated frequency counter is easiest) to calibrate the XG2 first. 73, Don W3FPR Dennis Vavra wrote: With regards to the XG2, in addition to everything else it can do, can it also calibrate the main tuning control (VFO) of tranceivers like the NorCal 40A? I am considering purchasing an XG2 for my toolbox. I would greatly appreciate information on this. Dennis Vavra, AD5LY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Key shaping (hard?)
I heard the hard keying effect on 40 meters last night. Kevin KD5ONS's K2 sounded like he was running my old Conar transmitter. It was propagation related. Several stations sounded hard as I tuned across the band. With some signals showing a slight aura wobble. I also observed the effect coming and going on signals. Weird stuff. So don't dig into your rig quite yet! Scott N0AR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Ground isolation w/K2 serial rig control
Most sound card interface designs include isolation between computer and radio signals using transformers for audio and optoisolators or solid state relays for PTT. If one wanted to have a sound card interface connected at the same time as the KIO2 or KPA100 serial control cable, the signal ground on the serial control cable is not isolated, and so would provides an unwanted ground path between the radio and the computer. Is there a way to isolate the receive data, transmit data and signal ground lines of the serial control cable such that this ground path is eliminated? I am looking for a homebrew solution as opposed to a pre-packaged approach, but I can't seem to find any info on the net besides pre-packaged. -Ben K1NT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] frrquency counter
Don, Thanks for the info abt the XG2/freq ctr. Could you recommend a make/model freq ctr for kit blding that is not too expensive? Iv'e looked at the MFJ web site but if you could recommend another it would be of help. Dennis vavra, AD5LY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Frequency Counter
Don, Thanks for the info regarding the XG2/Freq Ctr. Could you recommend a make/model freq ctr for kit building? Iv'e looked on the MFJ web site, but if you have better ideas it would be of great help. Preferably one that is not too expensive!! Dennis Vavra, AD5LY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Frequency Counter
Dennis, I would not recommend ANY kit frequency counter if one will be using it for calibration purposes - unless you have some means of calibrating it. I can recommend a recently calibrated HP or Fluke frequency counter - you can sometimes find them used at auction sites, but they may not have recent (and tracable) calibration. Good calibration does cost dearly at a calibration lab. To be properly used as a calibration device the instrument should have a tracable calibration accuracy of 10 times the accuracy that you seek when using it. That means if you wish to achieve 1 Hz accuracy at 10 MHz, that instrument must be calibrated to an accuracy of 10^-7 or better. That kind of accuracy just cannot be achieved with an over-the-air signal from WWV - syncing to WWVB might be possible, but that is not easy for most ham/experimenter situations. If you can find a GPS synced standard, you may be able to achieve 10^-8 or with care even 10^-9 in some cases. You alone must decide what kind of accuracy you wish to achieve and make your decisions based on the specifications for the counter and the accuracy of your calibration techniques. 73, Don W3FPR Dennis Vavra wrote: Don, Thanks for the info regarding the XG2/Freq Ctr. Could you recommend a make/model freq ctr for kit building? Iv'e looked on the MFJ web site, but if you have better ideas it would be of great help. Preferably one that is not too expensive!! Dennis Vavra, AD5LY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Problem with KPA100 - HiCurr
Dear all, Problem solved!! Bad soldering found! Thanks! 73, Koert PA1KW - HAMRADIO - when everything else fails! Koert Wilmink wrote: Dear all, After a lot of checking and checking I still have this problem. I removed T4 and did dubble check. I did replace the coax cable by a teflon coax cable. I did set R26 and R27 to 43K. Sometimes when turning C1 it is possible to set 1.0-1 but than it reduces the power to 0 watts. After switching off and on again the display is saying Hi Curr again. Any other suggestions? 73, Koert PA1KW - HAMRADIO - when everything else fails! Koert Wilmink wrote: Dear all, I just finished my KPA100. I do have the following problem with the first steps connecting the KPA100 to my K2 #05618. I've connected the ribbon cable, speaker and RF connector to my K2. I've got audio and I also receive stations when I connect my antenna. With my dummy load and after setting power to 5Watts on 40M I see the 5 watts and the SWR for 1 second in the LCD screen and then the HiCur (High current) appears on the LCD.On 20m bands I only see the PWR in the LCD screen without the SWR for 1 second and than I see HiRefl. On 10M I do see the pwr and the SWR! The latter I only get 2.1 watts when set to 5 watts. Please can somebody tell me where to start? I did check the connections and this seems to be ok. There is no pwr to the KPA100 so everything is bypassed, except the bandfilters? help is very much appreciated!. 73, Koert PA1KW - HAMRADIO - when everything else fails! K2 # 05618 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re:[elecraft]Alignment and Test, part 1
Hi Don, Problem fixed, I had omitted R64..works fine now ! Thanks, 73 Bryan GM3AKF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Frequency Counter
I have a little portable counter (ancient - late 70's technology) that uses a 4 MHz crystal. It was nothing fancy. It didn't even have a way to adjust the crystal frequency. I had to add a small piston trimmer cap to the design. I used it commercially to confirm that shipboard transmitters were in spec before the FCC checked them during the annual inspection. I noted that my counter was always very, very close to the FCC examiner's much more sophisticated instrument. Mine used the common 4 MHz crystal. Before going out to a ship the check the transmitters I'd set it using the 5th harmonic of the xtal to beat against WWV. I could easily set it to with 1/2 Hz at 20 MHz. That is the S-meter on the receiver monitoring WWV would wander every so slowly, completing a cycle in no less than 1 second. That meant the time base error was 1/5 that for a total error of 1/10 Hz or less. If I ever have to retire my little counter I'll look for a similar capability in any design I use to replace it. As long as I can check the calibration regularly I'll know how much a counter tends to drift and I can quickly set it very accurately whenever I need to make an especially precise adjustment. It's pretty rare when WWV isn't booming in here on 20 MHz on the west coast. I set my K2's calibration using the procedure Wayne provided on the web site, primarily because I wanted to see how easily it worked. It was simple, quick and yielded results well within the 20 Hz or so possible error of the DAC's used in the K2. So I never tried using WWV at 20 MHz to zero beat the K2 control board oscillator, but I'd expect it to work just as well. After all, the K2 has a built in frequency counter. It's that built-in counter's time base that C22 adjusts! Why not set it as accurately as possible and use it as it was intended. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Frequency Counter
I can recommend the M3 FPM1 Frequency Counter and Power Meter.. http://www.m3electronix.com/fpm1.html It's a great kit but the calibration problem still remains. For calibration, M3 sells the RF Calibrator which is NOT a kit, but does come calibrated by M3. http://www.m3electronix.com/rfcal.html Both are remarkably accurate and I've found them to be very useful additions to my bench. Disclaimer: I do not work for M3 Electronix, I'm just a satisfied customer. On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 14:30:33 -0500, Dennis Vavra [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Don, Thanks for the info regarding the XG2/Freq Ctr. Could you recommend a make/model freq ctr for kit building? Iv'e looked on the MFJ web site, but if you have better ideas it would be of great help. Preferably one that is not too expensive!! Dennis Vavra, AD5LY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- kc0ukk at msosborn dot com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RS-232 Noise
Removing the freq counter cable had no effect. Repositioning the ribbon cable did help some, but the noise is still there. I tried positioning the cable every way possible and found the most quite spot by routing it back beneath the shield and then folding it sharply toward the front - right above but not touching the crystals on KSB2. I taped the cable to the shield at this spot. Without an antenna, the noise is still ~S2 (2 leds) on most bands. But with an antenna attached it disappears into the band noise. So I suppose it's not too big a deal. But I'd still like to get rid of the noise completely. I never noticed it with the KIO2. I also changed the polling frequency to 1 second. That makes the noise more or less insignificant. But now I have to look at the rig's S-meter instead of the virtual one on the monitor. :) Anyways, the K2 is working *great*. It a real joy to operate and the receiver is simply fantastic. I'll be taking it on a DX vacation to Bermuda the last week in July. I'm looking forward to finding out what it's like to BE DX. :) 73 -David W4SMT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
