[Elecraft] K3 utility addition

2008-07-27 Thread Serge

Hello
it would be nice if K3 utility had some addition:

- like it in HRD - read-write-edit  menu-config K3
- two ways for download via internet firmware - official and beta
- read-write-edit memory K3
- macros for terminal



73
Serge, RV3APM
K3 #1099

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
As you have I have tried many different ways of getting a line into a tree 
during the past 50 years, well 60 :-)  The problems that I have always found 
with shooting, casting or throwing a thin line with a weight or ball at its 
end is that too often the end wraps itself around a branch or gets stuck in 
a piece of broken bark, and secondly to place a line exactly where I want it 
in a 100ft tree is almost impossible due to human error, or breeze causing 
the line to drift. Shooting tennis balls is a good idea, but when I tried 
this method  too often a ball would bounce off a branch or become stuck. It 
would seem that I need more practice in shooting tennis ball!


A local problem is that there are several Buzzards living in the trees who 
have an unhealthy interest in flying objects!


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


- Original Message - 
From: Benny Aumala [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 9:14 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Antennas in trees



Best and easiest way to shoot antenna is here:

http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm

I tried almost all imaginable systems during 50 years.
And tennis ball does not harm anything when coming down.
This can be ordered as a kit, too.
Smile!

Benny OH9NB


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Brett Howard
Perhaps you could practice your tennis ball shooting skills and deter
these buzzards in your area at the same time...  two birds with one
tennis ball?  

~Brett (KC7OTG)

On Sun, 2008-07-27 at 09:24 +0100, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:
 As you have I have tried many different ways of getting a line into a tree 
 during the past 50 years, well 60 :-)  The problems that I have always found 
 with shooting, casting or throwing a thin line with a weight or ball at its 
 end is that too often the end wraps itself around a branch or gets stuck in 
 a piece of broken bark, and secondly to place a line exactly where I want it 
 in a 100ft tree is almost impossible due to human error, or breeze causing 
 the line to drift. Shooting tennis balls is a good idea, but when I tried 
 this method  too often a ball would bounce off a branch or become stuck. It 
 would seem that I need more practice in shooting tennis ball!
 
 A local problem is that there are several Buzzards living in the trees who 
 have an unhealthy interest in flying objects!
 
 73,
 Geoff
 GM4ESD
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Benny Aumala [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 9:14 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Antennas in trees
 
 
  Best and easiest way to shoot antenna is here:
 
  http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm
 
  I tried almost all imaginable systems during 50 years.
  And tennis ball does not harm anything when coming down.
  This can be ordered as a kit, too.
  Smile!
 
  Benny OH9NB
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Brett Howard
Oh it is here too...  My comment was mostly tongue in cheek...  But it
would be fun practice. ;)

On Sun, 2008-07-27 at 11:27 +0200, Simon Brown (HB9DRV) wrote:
 Interfering with Buzzards is a serious crime in the UK, resulting in prison 
 / hefty fines.
 
 Simon Brown, HB9DRV
 
 --
 From: Brett Howard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  Perhaps you could practice your tennis ball shooting skills and deter
  these buzzards in your area at the same time...  two birds with one
  tennis ball?
  
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Good 'law', fine birds. Anyway a Buzzard could demolish a flying tennis ball 
:-)


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD

From: Brett Howard [EMAIL PROTECTED]


Oh it is here too...  My comment was mostly tongue in cheek...  But it
would be fun practice. ;)

On Sun, 2008-07-27 at 11:27 +0200, Simon Brown (HB9DRV) wrote:
Interfering with Buzzards is a serious crime in the UK, resulting in 
prison

/ hefty fines.

Simon Brown, HB9DRV

--
From: Brett Howard [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Perhaps you could practice your tennis ball shooting skills and deter
 these buzzards in your area at the same time...  two birds with one
 tennis ball?


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Ian White GM3SEK

Simon Brown (HB9DRV) wrote:
Interfering with Buzzards is a serious crime in the UK, resulting in 
prison / hefty fines.




A completely different bird from the American buzzard, by the way.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK
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Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic RG-174

2008-07-27 Thread David Woolley (E.L)

Jim Wiley wrote:


Well, according to the wire tables, the 26 gauge center conductor can 


Where do you find wire tables for 50MHz?  The ones I've seen are for 50 
or 60Hz.


safely handle about 350 to 400  milliamperes, depending on how you 


If you are using 60Hz wire tables, you will need to derate the current 
handling by maybe a couple of orders of magnitude!  I'd suggest finding 
out the mains frequency resistance, then calculating the power 
dissipation per unit length.  Next take the 50MHz attenuation and 
convert that to a power dissipation, and match the two.  This is not 
perfect, because the attenuation will include dissipation in the 
dielectric and the shield, which might be closer to the surface and 
therefore dissipate more easily.



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread David Woolley (E.L)

Benny Aumala wrote:


http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm


That URL seems to lead to a cybersquatter (the sort that gives you
their search engine results).

It might, though, be worth noting that professional tree climbers use 
throw bags and slick line to get a messenger over a tree limb.  The 
throw bags are tough bags filled with around 12oz of ball bearings and 
the slick link is typically a 5mm rope made from slippery plastic.




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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Charles Harpole

I am not a professional tree climber and do not

even play one on tv, BUT I recommend using a

light rope with a plastic bottle partly filled with water

as the throwing weight.  That way, if the bottle breaks,

u do not have 12 oz of ball bearings raining down on

ur or ur neighbor's heads.  Also, for the times u miss and the 

water bottle gets hung up in a tree, when it finally comes

loose, all u get is a little wet and a light plastic bottle coming down!

Also, same level of safety when the water bottle comes loose from 

the rope in mid flight.  

A slingshot or bow/arrow look great, but take care of down range hits.  73


Charles Harpole

[EMAIL PROTECTED]






 Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 12:14:11 +0100
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

 Benny Aumala wrote:

 http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm

 That URL seems to lead to a cybersquatter (the sort that gives you
 their search engine results).

 It might, though, be worth noting that professional tree climbers use
 throw bags and slick line to get a messenger over a tree limb. The
 throw bags are tough bags filled with around 12oz of ball bearings and
 the slick link is typically a 5mm rope made from slippery plastic.



 --
 David Woolley
 The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to
 Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio
 List Guidelines 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta Test Firmware Instructions

2008-07-27 Thread John Reiser

Gene,

Have you edited the path  in the utility to lead to the folder where your 
latest beta firmware files reside?


John, W2GW


- Original Message - 
From: Dick Dievendorff [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 1:39 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Beta Test Firmware Instructions



You've unzipped the files as indicated in the beta instructions?  The K3
Utility is expecting just the files you've listed in the firmware folder.

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 9:41 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta Test Firmware Instructions


I am connected to the k3 via a usb to rs232 adapter purchased from 
Elecraft.
Yes, the communication test works.  A message window appears and says K3 
is

running main program RS232 38400 bps.
Files that are in the folder I made on my desktop are:
HMCU0220.HEX
HFPF0002.HEX
TBOOT7.HEX
HDSP0188.HEX
DTBL0008.HEX
HFWNOTES
HAUX0188.HEX
When I direct the utility to the file on my desktop and click, Check
versions Now the activity log says the required firmware files are 
missing.

I do not have the box checked that says Copy new files into local
folder.
I will try creating a new folder somewhere else instead of on the desktop
and start over.

I tried using a new folder.  NG.  Will try again another day or wait till
firmware is finalized and no longer beta version.
Gene, W2BXR
K3, 1188
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta Test Firmware Instructions

2008-07-27 Thread Richard Robbins

I had the same problem.  Make sure you add the k3fw2r20 file extention to the
local folder path.

73, Richard
N4WDU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW spot feature

2008-07-27 Thread Larry Naumann

I notice the same thing, it seems to not work quite as well as before. The
tune indicator seems to not lock on as well either, which makes sense as
they are both tied together.
Larry  N0SA



George-122 wrote:
 
 Maybe it's just me, but the spot feature seems less accurate than
 previously.  Using 2.02 and dsp 1.77.  
 
 Anyone else notice this?
 
 73, 
 George, N4Ym
 K3# 340
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[Elecraft] [K3} Eterlogic VSPE 0.78

2008-07-27 Thread Bill W4ZV

I hesitate to interrupt the flow of OT trivia but here's something that's
actually useful:

http://www.eterlogic.com/Products.VSPE.html

This small free program allows you to create multiple connections to one
serial port used by your K3.  For example, my old P3 computer has one true
RS-232 port on COM1 which I use for my K3.  When attempting to run a second
program simultaneously, it's locked out of COM1 by the first program
connected.  Using VSPE, I can assign COM1 to a virtual COM3, and then reset
all programs to use COM3 instead of COM1.  Using this I can now run the
K3Utility, HRD and N1MM all simultaneously connected without any apparent
conflicts. 

Please do not contact me about setup questions. 

73,  Bill
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Adjust TX and RX Equalizer

2008-07-27 Thread drewko1
On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 13:16:00 -0400, David Wilburn K4DGW wrote:

Do any of the rig control tools adjust the menu / equalizer settings? 
  I have had a difficult time making adjustments in the small window 
available in the menu screen.  Any suggestions are appreciated.

Well, I just dial the RxEQ in by ear and referring to the db values so
a better graphical display isn't really necessary (i.e., select the
bands with the number keys and dial in the eq with the vfo knob). It
goes pretty quickly.

But I think the RxEQ should be mode specific. You generally don't want
the RXeq for CW the same as AM or SSB, and it's not very convenient
having to change it every time you switch modes. I think this issue
has been raised before.

73,
Drew
AF2Z

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[Elecraft] [K3] Re: Adjust TX and RX Equalizer

2008-07-27 Thread Dave G4AON
There is already a bypass facility for the equaliser with the 
synchronous data mode used for Pactor and Amtor modes, this is assigned 
to one of the PF keys and when in use bypasses the TX and RX 
equalisation. Maybe someday Wayne and Lyle will include an equaliser 
switching function, it could be assigned to one of the PF keys and 
rotate through perhaps two user defined settings and off for both TX 
and RX. Hopefully, the K3 will not become over complex with these 
various suggestions, one of the delights is the ability to use it 
without constant reference to the manual!


73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80


But I think the RxEQ should be mode specific. You generally don't want
the RXeq for CW the same as AM or SSB, and it's not very convenient
having to change it every time you switch modes. I think this issue
has been raised before.

73,
Drew
AF2Z
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[Elecraft] K3 Noise Reduction

2008-07-27 Thread Tom Wylie

Is this supposed to work in Data Modes?

Tom
GM4FDM

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[Elecraft] K3 6 Meter TX Power Issue

2008-07-27 Thread John Klewer

OKdoes anyone else have this same operational quirk?

Using latest beta firmware (same problem existed using the latest 
released FW as well) I have a XV-144 connected to my K3...set output 
power on 6 meters set to about 60 watts (actual value is irrelevant), 
switch to 144 MHz, switch back to 6 metersnow output power is 3.7W!


This happens repeatably

Any one else with an XV-144 care to try this and report back?

Any suggestions?

Thanks

John, N6AX
K3 567

   



 


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RE: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Dan Barker
Luckily, they think the brains in a Hang-glider are in the beak, not
dangling 5 feet below!

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip

Good 'law', fine birds. Anyway a Buzzard could demolish a flying tennis ball
:-)

73,
Geoff
/snip

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta Test Firmware Instructions

2008-07-27 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Sat, 26 Jul 2008 22:39:02 -0700, Dick Dievendorff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

You've unzipped the files as indicated in the beta instructions?  The K3
Utility is expecting just the files you've listed in the firmware folder.

73 de Dick, K6KR
  
[snip]

I think the poster may be having trouble locating his beta download.

I have a setup here that helps me remember/find where they are.

On my desktop I have created the following folder structure:

Elecraft Beta
Beta.202
Beta.210
  Beta.etc

When I download a new beta I create a new folder under the Elecraft Beta
folder with the naming convention above and download the new beta to the new
folder and unzip it there.

Until I did that I always had trouble remembering/finding where the download and
extract ended up.

Hope that's helpful.


Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

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Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

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RE: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I use an EZ-Hang and it works great, although if I had known about the
tennis ball launcher first I might have chosen it instead. OTOH, in
dense foliage I suspect the fishing weights penetrate much better than a
larger tennis ball. I'm in forest land where the tree branches generally
form a solid canopy. 

I do not try to pull the weights through the tree. Once over, I take the
weights off and attach a line to the end in their place, then pull the
fishing line with the line attached back through the tree. The
attachment is carefully taped and covered to provide a smooth junction
to avoid catching in branches. The line will naturally migrate toward a
crotch in the branches as it is pulled, so anything that can get stuck
usually will get stuck!

Sometimes I use a heavy twine or cord first, then use it to pull a
halyard through the tree.  

Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
 
HAHA oh thats JUST what I need!!! ;)

I've already got a few fishing weights up in the tree in the back
yard...  Its a big cedar and getting through it is a bear.  So as you
get part way through and are realing back those things tend to wind
themselves around a branch and not want to let go.  If I was using one
of these I'd have brightly colored tennis balls up there.  

It'be christmas year round! 

Do gotta admit this would be one FUN toy for FD!

~Brett (KC7OTG)



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RE: [Elecraft] K3 surplus space?

2008-07-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Well, the top of the KRX3 RF enclosure is within a fraction of an inch
(about 0.15 IIRC) of the bottom of the loudspeaker. So that area is
already accounted for. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

I just installed the KRX3 in the K3 already loaded with 100W and tuner.
Now there appears to be surplus room above the KRX3 about the same 
height as the KRX3.
I wonder what product Wayne and Eric plan to go in that spot? :-D

Aloha,
John KH7T


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RE: [Elecraft] dipole antenna camping trip

2008-07-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Nice report Scott! 

Where you are on the mountain can create some astonishing results;

1) If you were somewhere on the side - below the peak - you probably had
significant low-angle gain away from the mountain. At the height above
the ground you had your antennas, the ground nearby acted like a
reflector in a beam. In this case the main lobe is not straight up, as
in a NVIS antenna on level earth, but since were on a slope it was
skewed down toward the horizon where it's better for working longer
distances. Of course the signal is much, much stronger *away* from the
mountain than through it ;-) Some dedicated mountain enthusiasts even
arrange inverted V dipoles held by a single support sticking out
sideways on a cliff face to enhance this effect, but it's very real even
on more reasonable slopes. 

2) If you were on the very peak of the mountain, the mountain itself
acted like an antenna support. For the ground to act like normal level
ground, it needs to extend several wavelengths away from the antenna. At
our home QTHs on nearly level ground, that's a limitation. On a mountain
peak, that's a real advantage! 

Objects many wavelengths away (like those other mountains in the
vicinity) aren't likely to cause any noticeable effect. That's where
Marconi and the experts of his time disagreed. Hertz had shown that a
simple piece of metal would stop electromagnetic waves. What people
(including Hertz) didn't realize at the time was that Hertz' waves were
in the VHF range, from what later engineers could determine. They are
stopped by a significant piece of metal. Marconi, after hearing his
spark signals over a small hill on his family's estate, was convinced
that Hertz was wrong. Marconi was right, since he was using very low
frequency signals in the range of a few hundred kilohertz. 

I've seen the effect described in a way one can visualize as putting a
breakwater - a stone wall jutting above the waves - in a harbor
entrance. A small breakwater will stop the turbulent rapid (high
frequency) water movement, but longer, slower (lower frequency) waves
will wrap right around it and show up on the other side. The bigger
the breakwater, the longer wave (lower frequency) wave it takes to pass
around it: shorter (higher frequency) waves are more effectively
blocked. 

Understanding that, and not realizing there were other propagation
mechanisms, such as refraction of radio waves by the ionosphere and even
the surface of the earth itself, is what led early engineers to believe
that lower frequencies - longer waves - were essential for long distance
communications. It was that misunderstanding that put us Hams on 200
meters and down. We were given the short waves in the mistaken belief
that they had no commercial value and no one, including us Hams, would
be able to get out of our back yards on such short wavelengths. 

Of course, as soon as we Hams discovered how effective ionospheric
propagation was for long range short-wave communications, just as you
did working stations on the far side of those nearby mountains, they
took most of those useless short wave frequencies back :-)

Ron AC7AC  



-Original Message-

Subject: [Elecraft] dipole antenna  camping trip

Here is some antenna information that might supprise you!
I was planning a camping trip to the mountains and needed a dipole
antenna
for my K2/10. I would be camped in a heavly wooded area and space
between
trees would be small.  So before leaving home I built a 20 meter dipole
because
it would be short and would be easier to get in between the trees. Then
I
decided
it would be nice to have 40 meters if I had the room, so I took two end
clamps
off of a battery jumper cable and clamped them to the end of the 20
meter
dipole, then added enough wire to the clamps to make it a 40 meter
dipole.
When I installed the antenna at 8000 feet alt I had enough room for the
40
meter addition.  The center was 25 feet off the ground, one end was 20
feet
up
and the other 6 feet off the ground.
I found that with the 40 meter attachment with the battery cable clamps
the
antenna
was resonate on 40, 20, and 15 meters with an swr of .1 on all three
bands.
Even in the heavly forrested area I worked stations all over the US and
Canada.
Just to the north of me was a mountain range that went above the
timberline,

but I didn't seem to have any trouble getting over it,
and to the south was another that was about ten thousand feet high.
They didn't seem to effect my signals. I was running 10 watts the whole
time.
The bears even left me alone!
73
Scott N5SM


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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread AD6XY

What you need are a set of climbing poles, which needs the poles, 3 ropes and
a weight. The climbing poles are very two long rods with a hook on the end
of each able to slide along each other (but not tilt !). The poles extend
via two ropes, one per pole attached to the base of that pole and to near
the top of the other. Then you hook the first pole over a branch. Pull on a
rope to extend the second pole and hook it over a higher branch. Continue
branch by branch up the tree.  This contraption can carry a weight attached
to a third rope with a release mechanism (a breakable tie for example). When
over the branch you want, pull the rope from the correct side so the weight
comes over the branch and back down to ground. The climbing contraption also
needs to be tied to the rope so you can unhook it from the lower branch.

After this, curse the fact you forgot to tie the aerial to the rope and
start again. 

Hard work. It is easier to fire up a weight in a catapult. To stop leaving
failed projectiles (e.g. tennis balls) in the tree, make the projectile out
of ice, it will then melt.
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-Antennas-in-trees-tp582760p585503.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] k2 kit for sale

2008-07-27 Thread Chris

hi all i have a k2 kit for sale comes with
knb2, ksb2,k160rx,finger dimple all new
unbuilt looking for £ 500 gbp free post
in the uk will ship to euro land you pay
shipping contact me off list at
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
this is been sold to help fund trip to
tasmania thanks chris 


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[Elecraft] K3 Beta test firmware instructions

2008-07-27 Thread eaonj
Success!!
Dave, G3TJP hit the nail on the head.
 
Whatever you call the folder you created to bring in the Beta Zip File from 
Elecraft web site, the utility creates another folder called, K3fw2r20, for 
this particular beta version, when you un-zip it.  This is the location that 
you need to direct the utility to.  The 2 upload buttons are then active and 
now you can click, Send All Firmware to K3.
 
Thank you all for your help.
 
Gene, W2BXR
K3, 1188
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[Elecraft] FS - K1 board

2008-07-27 Thread Michael - VE3MKX
Hi,,, I have for sale a 80m / 20m  board for the K1, Version D.  Tuned and 
ready to go !  $30 US plus shipping

For further info, email direct.  mkx 'at' sympatico.ca

73 Mike
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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire

Dan's comment is very true of *any* antenna, and most especially tree
mounted antennas. 

To survive storms at all, it's very important that the antenna wire or
the halyards *never* fall under strain from the tree as it moves in the
wind. Even small trees can exert tons of pressure on the wire or
halyard.

I have an Inverted L with the end attached about 50 feet up in a 60 foot
high Spruce tree.

Two counterweight systems maintain sufficient tension on the antenna to
keep it in place while allowing the anchor point in the tree to move at
least 15 feet in high winds. One counterweight allows the main antenna
end guy rope to change length as needed as the tree moves and the other
allows the back stay that loops over the tree to move independently.

The counterweights need to be heavy enough to hold the antenna, but not
heavier than needed for that. When trees whip in the winds, the inertia
of the counterweights can produce shock loads many, many times greater
than the weights themselves for a brief moment until the weights begin
to move. The heavier the counterweight, the greater its inertia and the
shock load. 

My antenna survived two storms with hurricane-force 100+ MPH winds last
winter, although the antenna counterweight did move almost its full
travel as the tree swayed more than 10 feet at the 50-foot level. This
summer I adjusted the system to allow more movement. 

Even so, the system needs to come down every couple of years to be
inspected for chafing of the lines and to move the lines somewhat if you
don't want them to damage the tree.

Dan's suggestion is an excellent one. No sense in starting from scratch
if the worst does happen! A few feet of extra line can make all the
difference in the world. If we humans have learned anything at all, it's
that anything human kind can erect nature can knock down!  

Ron AC7AC
 
-Original Message-
... and, HOWEVER you get the ropes over the tree, they will someday
fall. If
the location is a good one, you may want to use it again. Rather than
trying to hit that perfect branch again, I always include an extra rope,
for
after the fall.

The extra rope is a continuous loop that reaches the ground and does
not
bear any weight. It is used simply to pull a new rope/antenna up after
the
current one falls. It looks like I have three ropes over the branch, but
one
holds the antenna and the other two are just both sides of the backup
loop.

I usually do my antenna launching in the winter when foilage is less,
but
the things come down whenever they please. With a loop over each good
branch, I can pull up new rope/wire even in the middle of summer.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456



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[Elecraft] Re-loading earlier version firmware ?

2008-07-27 Thread Jack Colson
Before I upgraded to version 2.16 using the K3 Utility software I saved 
the present (original) configuration.


I have since updated to version 2.20 and wanted to go back to see how 
the rig worked using the earlier version.


Again using the utility software I go to configurations and see two 
files, each having a date/time stamp.


I select the first file and upload it to the rig.  The screen goes blank 
for a bit.  You don't see the normal MCU LD,FPF, etc like with a normal 
firware upgrade.


The transceiver went back to an earlier frequency and I checked the 
firmware and it is still 2.20.


Something is amiss with what I am doing!

Help!

73
Jack, W3TMZ 


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Beta test firmware instructions

2008-07-27 Thread Dick Dievendorff
The K3 Utility creates just one default firmware folder, under
...\Application Data\Elecraft\K3 Firmware.  

The folder containing Beta firmware is created by you, or by your choices
made with the program that expands the downloaded zip file.

The K3 Utility needs to know what folder you have placed the firmware files
into, and you tell it that by providing the folder name in the text box on
the Firmware page under the label Local folder for firmware files, either
by typing/pasting it into the text box, or by navigating to it with the
browse-for-folder dialog that is launched when you click the Browse...
button.

Creating appropriately named folders under ...\Elecraft\K3 Firmware is a
fine way to retain beta versions in an easy-to-find place. But there's no
magic to any of the folder names. The unzip program probably created the
K3FW2R20 folder for you based on its defaults which may be dependent on the
zip file name or the folder the zip file was in.

If you point the K3 Utility to the same folder you unzipped the files into
it should work.  There's no requirement that the firmware folder be in a
subdirectory of the default firmware folder.  For example, the manual file
transfer technique described in K3 Utility help describes using a flash
drive as the firmware folder.  It's just normal file system stuff, no
magic is intended here!

The send buttons are disabled if the firmware folder you have selected
(with the above-mentioned text box on the firmware page) does not contain
the necessary files to load the K3.  Send New is disabled when the version
of these firmware files is not newer than the firmware installed in the K3.


Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 9:23 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Beta test firmware instructions

Success!!
Dave, G3TJP hit the nail on the head.
 
Whatever you call the folder you created to bring in the Beta Zip File from
Elecraft web site, the utility creates another folder called, K3fw2r20,
for this particular beta version, when you un-zip it.  This is the location
that you need to direct the utility to.  The 2 upload buttons are then
active and now you can click, Send All Firmware to K3.
 
Thank you all for your help.
 
Gene, W2BXR
K3, 1188
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RE: [Elecraft] Re-loading earlier version firmware ?

2008-07-27 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Restore configuration does not reload the K3's firmware.  If you want to
restore the prior firmware, you'll need to point the K3 Utility to a
firmware folder containing the desired firmware version and load it from
there.

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Colson
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 12:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Re-loading earlier version firmware ?

Before I upgraded to version 2.16 using the K3 Utility software I saved 
the present (original) configuration.

I have since updated to version 2.20 and wanted to go back to see how 
the rig worked using the earlier version.

Again using the utility software I go to configurations and see two 
files, each having a date/time stamp.

I select the first file and upload it to the rig.  The screen goes blank 
for a bit.  You don't see the normal MCU LD,FPF, etc like with a normal 
firware upgrade.

The transceiver went back to an earlier frequency and I checked the 
firmware and it is still 2.20.

Something is amiss with what I am doing!

Help!

73
Jack, W3TMZ 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Alan Bloom
On Sun, 2008-07-27 at 04:14, David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 Benny Aumala wrote:
  
  http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm
 
 That URL seems to lead to a cybersquatter (the sort that gives you
 their search engine results).

It works if you delete the /csv19/index.htm part.

 It might, though, be worth noting that professional tree climbers use 
 throw bags and slick line to get a messenger over a tree limb.  The 
 throw bags are tough bags filled with around 12oz of ball bearings and 
 the slick link is typically a 5mm rope made from slippery plastic.

I was absolutely amazed watching a guy from the local tree service use
one of those things.  He just grabbed the rope a couple feet from the
bag, swung it in a circle a couple times, and effortlessly lofted it
precisely over the desired branch about 50 feet in the air.

Al N1AL


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Jon Kåre Hellan

David Woolley (E.L) wrote:

Benny Aumala wrote:


http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm


That URL seems to lead to a cybersquatter (the sort that gives you
their search engine results).


It's http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.html - with an 'l' at 
the end.




It might, though, be worth noting that professional tree climbers use 
throw bags and slick line to get a messenger over a tree limb.  The 
throw bags are tough bags filled with around 12oz of ball bearings and 
the slick link is typically a 5mm rope made from slippery plastic.






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[Elecraft] RE:K3 beta test firmware instructions

2008-07-27 Thread eaonj
Hi Dick -- I'm sure you are correct in that when I double clicked the ziped 
file the unzip program created another folder, K3FW20R20, and not the utility.  
This contained the files the utility wanted to see.  I don't know how the unzip 
program did this or how to change the defaults.  However, as you mentioned, by 
directing the utility to the folder containing the unziped files all worked out 
OK. Thank you again for your help.

Gene, W2BXR
K3, 1188
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[Elecraft] Encoder Problem, I lost email

2008-07-27 Thread Alan Price

Sorry for using the reflector for this.  I received an email from a ham with a 
problem with the encoder on a K2.  The email got lost in my system.  Please 
resend.

Alan


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed

2008-07-27 Thread Steef PA2A

Mark,

I have had the same problem and also a hole in the 15 uH RFC. I replaced the 
coil temporarily by a resistor of 10 Ohms. Elecraft uses heavier inductors 
nowadays.


73 's Steef PA2A
K2 4654
K3 1184

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mark Adams, PE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 2:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed



Mark,

I would bet you are using an externally mounted KPA100/KAT100 combination. 
That puts a load on the 12CTRL line coming out of the K2, and yes oft 
times L1 on the AUX board is overloaded and goes up in smoke.  It is 
usually OK with the KPA100 or the KAT100 alone, but the combination of the 
two overloads that tiny inductor.


You need to replace the inductor with one having a heavier current rating. 
A toroid will do just fine.  If you have one of those tiny cores like used 
in the KSB2 RFC1 and RFC2, then just wind about 15 turns on that core. 
Lacking that, use an FT37-43 core and wind about 12 turns on it (the FT-37 
core is a bit large and untidy when mounted on the AUX board, but it 
works).  The inductance is not critical.  In fact, you probably can 
temporarily substitute a wire, but there may be noise coupling between 
your KPA100 and KAT100 at times, so I would not recommend the wire as a 
permanent fix, but it can get you going until you can get a suitable 
inductor.


If you want a tool to figure the number of turns needed on a core to 
produce a given inductance, I suggest you download miniRing Core 
Calculator by DL5SWB - it is freeware for radio amateurs - see 
www.dl5swb.de to download it.


73,
Don W3FPR

Mark Adams, PE wrote:

Hi Gang,

On FD, my K2 I/O board went south. It just stopped working when contest 
time arrived Saturday. Bummer. I've just dug into the radio and found 
that I have no power to U1 or Q1 on the I/O board and that L1 on the Aux2 
Board is busted. Has a hole in its side to be exact. So, my junk box has 
no 15uH inductors hiding anywhere. I have some inductors but no way to 
measure them.


Anyone have any ideas? Is there a resistor I could sub to finish 
troubleshooting? Maybe a few turns of #18 tinned wire would do the trick? 
I cannot even find formulas to help me out.

Yes, I'll order a few from the big E Monday, but until then..

73,
Mark K2QO



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[Elecraft] ESD Damage Question

2008-07-27 Thread Mike Thornton
I have my K3 on order, and plan to take all of the standard ESD precautions 
when I build it.  My question is about after it is built and in operation.

I just got through paying to have a new control board put in my Kenwood TS-2000 
because it apparently had some ESD damage.  I always disconnect my gear during 
thunderstorms, etc., so I assume it came in as a result of having the audio 
input and output and data lines connected to other equipment.  I would hate to 
have a repeat of that situation with the K3.  Does anyone have any thoughts 
about the K3 and static damage or any special precautions that should be taken?

Thanks for your help.
73, 
Mike, WC0L


  
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[Elecraft] K2 external keypaf for CW memory

2008-07-27 Thread Lennart - SM6KNL
Is there a way to connect the CW memory keyer to a more useful external 
keypad?


Regrads,
Lennart
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed

2008-07-27 Thread Brian
So does this mean that if I have a brand new KIO2 that L1 is large enough to
handle the current of the KPA 100 and KAT 100 together?  Or do I still need
to wind an inductor like recommended by Don (W3FPR) and also found on the
KK7P website to avoid smoke from L1.  

Thanks, 

Brian
N1WNC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steef PA2A
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 3:54 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mark Adams, PE
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed

Mark,

I have had the same problem and also a hole in the 15 uH RFC. I replaced the

coil temporarily by a resistor of 10 Ohms. Elecraft uses heavier inductors 
nowadays.

73 's Steef PA2A
K2 4654
K3 1184

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mark Adams, PE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 2:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed


 Mark,

 I would bet you are using an externally mounted KPA100/KAT100 combination.

 That puts a load on the 12CTRL line coming out of the K2, and yes oft 
 times L1 on the AUX board is overloaded and goes up in smoke.  It is 
 usually OK with the KPA100 or the KAT100 alone, but the combination of the

 two overloads that tiny inductor.

 You need to replace the inductor with one having a heavier current rating.

 A toroid will do just fine.  If you have one of those tiny cores like used

 in the KSB2 RFC1 and RFC2, then just wind about 15 turns on that core. 
 Lacking that, use an FT37-43 core and wind about 12 turns on it (the FT-37

 core is a bit large and untidy when mounted on the AUX board, but it 
 works).  The inductance is not critical.  In fact, you probably can 
 temporarily substitute a wire, but there may be noise coupling between 
 your KPA100 and KAT100 at times, so I would not recommend the wire as a 
 permanent fix, but it can get you going until you can get a suitable 
 inductor.

 If you want a tool to figure the number of turns needed on a core to 
 produce a given inductance, I suggest you download miniRing Core 
 Calculator by DL5SWB - it is freeware for radio amateurs - see 
 www.dl5swb.de to download it.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Mark Adams, PE wrote:
 Hi Gang,

 On FD, my K2 I/O board went south. It just stopped working when contest 
 time arrived Saturday. Bummer. I've just dug into the radio and found 
 that I have no power to U1 or Q1 on the I/O board and that L1 on the Aux2

 Board is busted. Has a hole in its side to be exact. So, my junk box has 
 no 15uH inductors hiding anywhere. I have some inductors but no way to 
 measure them.

 Anyone have any ideas? Is there a resistor I could sub to finish 
 troubleshooting? Maybe a few turns of #18 tinned wire would do the trick?

 I cannot even find formulas to help me out.
 Yes, I'll order a few from the big E Monday, but until then..

 73,
 Mark K2QO


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[Elecraft] VP6DX QSL Card PR

2008-07-27 Thread Rick Tavan N6XI
Just got the QSL card from VP6DX. It's actually a booklet report on the
entire expedition and it devote a very complimentary page to the K3.

Attaboy, Elecraft!

/Rick N6XI
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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Bill Johnson
I have one of those bags and they work very nicely, once you get the hang of
the timing.  I have yet to get over 30-35' in a vertical toss with accuracy.
So far my best bet has been a 7.5' fishing rod with 60 lb test line and some
weights, around 3/4 oz.  If I miss and the weight comes down where I don't
want it, I detach the weight and wind the line back very slowly so as to not
entangle the line.  At 60 lb test, one doesn't want to create too much
whiplash and catch one in the head.  Oh, did I mention safety glasses!


72,

Bill 

K9YEQ
K2 #35, K2 # 5279, KX1 #35, Mini Modules, etc.  

Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Alan Bloom
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 1:29 PM
To: David Woolley (E.L)
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

On Sun, 2008-07-27 at 04:14, David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 Benny Aumala wrote:
  
  http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.htm
 
 That URL seems to lead to a cybersquatter (the sort that gives you
 their search engine results).

It works if you delete the /csv19/index.htm part.

 It might, though, be worth noting that professional tree climbers use 
 throw bags and slick line to get a messenger over a tree limb.  The 
 throw bags are tough bags filled with around 12oz of ball bearings and 
 the slick link is typically a 5mm rope made from slippery plastic.

I was absolutely amazed watching a guy from the local tree service use
one of those things.  He just grabbed the rope a couple feet from the
bag, swung it in a circle a couple times, and effortlessly lofted it
precisely over the desired branch about 50 feet in the air.

Al N1AL


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed

2008-07-27 Thread Mike Harris
I've run #1400 with external KPA+KAT for years with the standard L1 
inductor, no smoke.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: Brian [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 6:06 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed


| So does this mean that if I have a brand new KIO2 that L1 is large 
enough to
| handle the current of the KPA 100 and KAT 100 together?  Or do I still 
need
| to wind an inductor like recommended by Don (W3FPR) and also found on 
the
| KK7P website to avoid smoke from L1.
|
| Thanks,
|
| Brian
| N1WNC

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Fw: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Jim Miller
i watched an arborist doing some work next door and he showed me the old 
man's toss. it is a between-the-legs toss and it really works well for me 
compared to the lariat toss.

it uses the arms, legs and back and is directly in line with your spine.

i went home and with very little practice i can now hit 50+ feet with no
problem. this lets me launch a messenger line to take up my line saw with
which i keep the trees near my dipole trimmed.

73

jim ab3cv

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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread K7TV

FWIW I'd like to relate what I saw at the recent Field Day.

The antenna crew used an air gun, similar, I think, to the ones used with
tennis balls, but the projectile was a small cylinder about 1 in diameter
and length, probably metal. The air reservoir was charged using a pump
designed to inflate tires. A valve seemingly designed for lawn sprinkler
systems was used with an electrical circuit to release the air charge into
the pvc pipe barrel. The shooter did not aim for a specific branch but at a
very steep angle over the top of the tree. This system had no problem
getting the projectile way above the tops of tall pine trees. Due to the
steep shooting angle, the projectile with fishing line also came down
steeply on the other side (good idea if there is a building that you don't
want to hit!). At this point the line was on top of several branches, big
and small. The shooter would slowly pull the line back, directed by a second
person with the projectile in view. This way several small branches were
cleared without snagging the projectile. When the projectile was hanging
down from a sturdy branch, the line was released to get it down to the
ground. 

Erik K7TV
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Fw%3A-Elecraft-Antennas-in-trees-tp585817p585869.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Eterlogic VSPE 0.78

2008-07-27 Thread David Wilburn
Very nice.  Looks a lot lie the bridging program being developed for 
the LP-PAN.  Will have to check this out.


I get around it by running rig control and spotting (ACLOG) for most 
of my activities.


Then N1MM by itself or with MMTTY for CW/SSB/RTTY contesting.  MMTTY 
is setup to run on VOX, and CW for N1MM uses the serial interface.


I haven't transmitted PSK yet.  Have played with Digipan and HRD.  HRD 
is very provisional and all-in-one.  Lots of neat things it is cable 
of doing, and the superbrowser is cool.  But I haven't taken the time 
to sit down and sort it all out yet.



David Wilburn
K4DGW



Bill W4ZV wrote:

I hesitate to interrupt the flow of OT trivia but here's something that's
actually useful:

http://www.eterlogic.com/Products.VSPE.html

This small free program allows you to create multiple connections to one
serial port used by your K3.  For example, my old P3 computer has one true
RS-232 port on COM1 which I use for my K3.  When attempting to run a second
program simultaneously, it's locked out of COM1 by the first program
connected.  Using VSPE, I can assign COM1 to a virtual COM3, and then reset
all programs to use COM3 instead of COM1.  Using this I can now run the
K3Utility, HRD and N1MM all simultaneously connected without any apparent
conflicts. 

Please do not contact me about setup questions. 


73,  Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW spot feature

2008-07-27 Thread David Wilburn
I ended up playing with some of the AGC / audio settings, as I had not 
messed with them, since I initially played with them when I got the 
rig.  But CWT is working fine, used it a lot yesterday.  I did notice 
initially, after the firmware update, that I adjusted the threshold a 
notch or too, but that is all it took.


David Wilburn
K4DGW



Larry Naumann wrote:

I notice the same thing, it seems to not work quite as well as before. The
tune indicator seems to not lock on as well either, which makes sense as
they are both tied together.
Larry  N0SA



George-122 wrote:

Maybe it's just me, but the spot feature seems less accurate than
previously.  Using 2.02 and dsp 1.77.  


Anyone else notice this?

73, 
George, N4Ym

K3# 340
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[Elecraft] K3 External Reference opt???

2008-07-27 Thread Larry Putman
Does anyone know the status of the K3 External Reference module option ??
This option was a big part of my decision for purchase of the K3!

Larry Putman WB3ANQ
Pasadena, Maryland

K3/10 SN 661


  

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for July 27th 28th, 2008

2008-07-27 Thread Kevin Rock
Good Evening,
   Wow, that was noisy!  My ears are still ringing after my walk.  Tomorrow's 
chainsaw work will seem pleasant in comparison.  Trying to find the weak 
signals on 40 meters was not easy.  It did not help that I kept hearing dits 
and dahs in the noise.  I did hear a few requests for my rain to move further 
south.  Seems like the weather in California is above 80 degrees.  I have only 
seen the temperature that high a couple times this year.  This week it is still 
raining every morning with sun coming out around noon.  I will have enough wood 
ready for two years soon if this weather keeps up.  The prediction is for mid 
to low 70s until Thursday.  This is probably why the QRN is so high.  Luckily 
during the Flight of the Bumblebees it was not so bad.  I tried all of the 
bands but only 20 and 40 meters gained me any contacts.  Still learning N1MM 
which is much nicer than paper logging.  Much nicer than any other logging 
program I have ever used too!  The approximately 400 pages of documentation is 
too much to work through so I take it a little at a time.  

   On to the lists =

On 14050 kHz at 2300z:
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K3 - 657
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798   * QNI #130 *
WA7BOC - Roger - WA - K3 - 75
K7GIM - Dave - AZ
KS7D - Mike - FL - K3 - 118
W6JD - Doug - CA - K3 - 23

On 7045 kHz at 0200z:
WC7S - Dale - WY - K2 - 4360
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457 ** QNI #235 **
N1AL - Al - CA - K3 847   QNI #5!
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K3 - 657 * QNI #130 *
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
N7AF - Dave - AZ - K2 - 4795
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 768
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866

   Hopefully the above lists are correct.  If not please send the changes to me 
via email.  As the second net was progressing the noise increased 
proportionately.  I am going to continue to take advantage of the very mild 
weather to do a little hiking.  I will also pack all the material for the roof 
up there now so I don't have to do so when the temperatures are in the 80s.  I 
expect it will get warmer when the dry season gets underway but that has yet to 
happen.  Fireweed just started blooming if that gives you any idea of the 
season up here.  Lots of errands to run this week so I had better get my home 
chores done tonight.  Thus saying I am off (more than you'll ever know :)  
   Have a good week and stay well,
  73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)


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RE: [Elecraft] ESD Damage Question

2008-07-27 Thread Jerry T. Dowell
I suspect that the K3 does not have any design features for minimizing
susceptibility to ESD. The K2 apparently does not. When I moved to NV from
CA I had a rude awakening. The humidity here is low, often in single digits.
I always draw sparks to every piece of metal, e.g., light switch plate
screws. I found that the K2 would go into hyperspace and require an off/on
reset whenever I reached for it and drew a spark to the case. One day I
sparked to the case containing the KPA100 and KAT100 and the amp stopped
working properly. The firmware probably got zapped. I restored function by
putting in a new firmware chip and bringing all the mods up to date. Since
then, I have grounded everything to power ground and have an operating table
with conducting paint (Walmart). It is now easy for me to keep discharged to
the table. Nonetheless, the K2 still burps if I happen to spark to the case,
even though it is well grounded. My K3 was set up with great care and
attention to grounding, but I expect that it may also respond to case
discharges. I sure am going to try to avoid testing that surmise!

Jerry   AI6L

-Original Message-
From: Mike Thornton [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 2:30 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] ESD Damage Question

I have my K3 on order, and plan to take all of the standard ESD precautions
when I build it.  My question is about after it is built and in operation.

I just got through paying to have a new control board put in my Kenwood
TS-2000 because it apparently had some ESD damage.  I always disconnect my
gear during thunderstorms, etc., so I assume it came in as a result of
having the audio input and output and data lines connected to other
equipment.  I would hate to have a repeat of that situation with the K3.
Does anyone have any thoughts about the K3 and static damage or any special
precautions that should be taken?

Thanks for your help.
73, 
Mike, WC0L


  


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for July 27th 28th, 2008

2008-07-27 Thread Brett Howard
Tried and tried and tried...  No relays...  Oh well guess I'll have to
wait till Tom gets his K3 back.

On Sun, 2008-07-27 at 23:25 -0400, Kevin Rock wrote:
 Good Evening,
Wow, that was noisy!  My ears are still ringing after my walk.  Tomorrow's 
 chainsaw work will seem pleasant in comparison.  Trying to find the weak 
 signals on 40 meters was not easy.  It did not help that I kept hearing dits 
 and dahs in the noise.  I did hear a few requests for my rain to move further 
 south.  Seems like the weather in California is above 80 degrees.  I have 
 only seen the temperature that high a couple times this year.  This week it 
 is still raining every morning with sun coming out around noon.  I will have 
 enough wood ready for two years soon if this weather keeps up.  The 
 prediction is for mid to low 70s until Thursday.  This is probably why the 
 QRN is so high.  Luckily during the Flight of the Bumblebees it was not so 
 bad.  I tried all of the bands but only 20 and 40 meters gained me any 
 contacts.  Still learning N1MM which is much nicer than paper logging.  Much 
 nicer than any other logging program I have ever used too!  The approximately 
 400 pages of documentation is too much to work through so I take it a little 
 at a time.  
 
On to the lists =
 
 On 14050 kHz at 2300z:
 W6ZH - Pete - CA - K3 - 657
 K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
 N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
 W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
 KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798   * QNI #130 *
 WA7BOC - Roger - WA - K3 - 75
 K7GIM - Dave - AZ
 KS7D - Mike - FL - K3 - 118
 W6JD - Doug - CA - K3 - 23
 
 On 7045 kHz at 0200z:
 WC7S - Dale - WY - K2 - 4360
 W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457 ** QNI #235 **
 N1AL - Al - CA - K3 847   QNI #5!
 W6ZH - Pete - CA - K3 - 657 * QNI #130 *
 K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
 K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
 N7AF - Dave - AZ - K2 - 4795
 KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 768
 N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
 
Hopefully the above lists are correct.  If not please send the changes to 
 me via email.  As the second net was progressing the noise increased 
 proportionately.  I am going to continue to take advantage of the very mild 
 weather to do a little hiking.  I will also pack all the material for the 
 roof up there now so I don't have to do so when the temperatures are in the 
 80s.  I expect it will get warmer when the dry season gets underway but that 
 has yet to happen.  Fireweed just started blooming if that gives you any idea 
 of the season up here.  Lots of errands to run this week so I had better get 
 my home chores done tonight.  Thus saying I am off (more than you'll ever 
 know :)  
Have a good week and stay well,
   73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)
 
 
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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Jim Brown
On Sun, 27 Jul 2008 11:47:54 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

The counterweights need to be heavy enough to hold the antenna, but not
heavier than needed for that. When trees whip in the winds, the inertia
of the counterweights can produce shock loads many, many times greater
than the weights themselves for a brief moment until the weights begin
to move. The heavier the counterweight, the greater its inertia and the
shock load

Yes. I have a half dozen dipoles suspended in redwoods, a Douglas Fir, and a 
Madrone at roughly 100 ft. I'm at 2,000 ft, about 5 miles from the Pacific, 
about 250 ft below the top of the ridge on the ocean side. Without weights, 
every antenna I installed was on the ground after the first real storm. Since 
I've installed counterweights, all have weathered 75 MPH winds for a couple 
of days. 

These antennas are heavy -- typically 150-250 ft spans, #10 copper, most with 
parallel #12 fan elements (to cover additional bands), and fed with RG8 or 
RG11. My weights are roughly 90-95#, and are made by simply filling 6.5gal 
water jugs with dry sand (roughly 1.5x heavier than water). Others have had 
good success by recycling the counterweights from vintage wood frame windows. 
I chose the tension by experimentally determining what it took to achieve the 
acceptable degree of droop. 

Counterweighting, of course, is only part of the story. When an antenna must 
withstand these kinds of forces, every element of their construction becomes 
critical. For this reason, I find nearly all of the commonly available center 
insulators for dipoles to be seriously lacking. The absolute worst was the 
RadioWavz unit. I bought two and used them to build 6M dipoles. Both fell 
apart when I pulled on the LM240 that attached to them!  

73,

Jim K9YC


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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees

2008-07-27 Thread Brett Howard
I've gotten my fair share of storms here too and rather than go the
route of counter weights since I had to kinda skirt the side of a big
cedar I opted for a rope method.

I ended up tying two ropes together at the center point of the dipole.
Then ran the rope up into the trees.  The rope bears all the force (and
it can take some HEAVY beating).  Then the antenna is simply hung from
the rope using crossed zipties around the spreaders (its a fanned
dipole).

This has lived through some pretty hair situations.  I did lose a few
feet of elevation one year but that was because the tree lost a limb and
I fell down to the next branch! hihi.

~Brett (KC7OTG)

On Sun, 2008-07-27 at 22:16 -0700, Jim Brown wrote:
 On Sun, 27 Jul 2008 11:47:54 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 
 The counterweights need to be heavy enough to hold the antenna, but not
 heavier than needed for that. When trees whip in the winds, the inertia
 of the counterweights can produce shock loads many, many times greater
 than the weights themselves for a brief moment until the weights begin
 to move. The heavier the counterweight, the greater its inertia and the
 shock load
 
 Yes. I have a half dozen dipoles suspended in redwoods, a Douglas Fir, and a 
 Madrone at roughly 100 ft. I'm at 2,000 ft, about 5 miles from the Pacific, 
 about 250 ft below the top of the ridge on the ocean side. Without weights, 
 every antenna I installed was on the ground after the first real storm. Since 
 I've installed counterweights, all have weathered 75 MPH winds for a couple 
 of days. 
 
 These antennas are heavy -- typically 150-250 ft spans, #10 copper, most with 
 parallel #12 fan elements (to cover additional bands), and fed with RG8 or 
 RG11. My weights are roughly 90-95#, and are made by simply filling 6.5gal 
 water jugs with dry sand (roughly 1.5x heavier than water). Others have had 
 good success by recycling the counterweights from vintage wood frame windows. 
 I chose the tension by experimentally determining what it took to achieve the 
 acceptable degree of droop. 
 
 Counterweighting, of course, is only part of the story. When an antenna must 
 withstand these kinds of forces, every element of their construction becomes 
 critical. For this reason, I find nearly all of the commonly available center 
 insulators for dipoles to be seriously lacking. The absolute worst was the 
 RadioWavz unit. I bought two and used them to build 6M dipoles. Both fell 
 apart when I pulled on the LM240 that attached to them!  
 
 73,
 
 Jim K9YC
 
 
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[Elecraft] Sidetone Monitor Preference Opinions

2008-07-27 Thread Brett Howard
Just out of curiosity what do you gentlemen prefer?  Do you like things
better the way the K3 does things where the monitor level is a fixed
output regardless of the AF knob.  Or is the way the K1 does things more
preferred.  The STL menu entry allows one to set the side tone monitor
as an offset from the RX level.  So you set the monitor level and it
gets louder or quieter as you adjust the AF Gain.  

My personal preference is the K1 method.  I like this because if my wife
is sleeping then I like to turn down the volume (if not go all the way
and use headphones).  I like to have the sidetone go down as well rather
than make a separate adjustment.  I'm not asking for any changes.  Just
curious to hear the thoughts of others on this topic.

~Brett (KC7OTG)

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