Re: [Elecraft] Tweak for phone?

[Dave Hachadorian]

There's a sweet spot for ssb contesting with DSP width = 1.8 
and shift FC = 1.1  You can even go down to width = 1.5 if 
the going gets really rough. I have the 1.8 filter, but I 
can't hear any major difference when it switches in. The DSP 
filter has narrower skirts than the crystal filter. The 1.8 
crystal filter is good for peace of mind in a contest, but I 
really don't think it's necessary with judicious reduction 
of RF gain, and turning off preamp and attenuator when 
conditions allow.

QRM WAS rough this weekend with everyone being on 20 meters. 
I thought the K3 did very well with it. I was able to read 
weak ssb signals with much louder signals 1.5 KHz away, 
which is pretty darn good.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: "Dave LaBat" 
To: "K3_Discussion_Group" 
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 5:11 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Tweak for phone?


> Interesting weekend. First time I've had strong enough 
> signals at the K3 that I felt like I was pushing it at 
> all.
>
> I have my K3 configured with only a 250 Hz for extra 
> filters, ridiculously narrow for everyday CW, great in a 
> contest! I have no other SSB filters.
>
> With CW I have noticed that seemingly no matter how strong 
> the nearby signals I can dig out the weak one in between. 
> Didn't seem that way, as much. on phone. I struggled to 
> pull the weak one with nearby strong stations. Used the 
> Attenuator a lot this weekend.
>
> I noticed when I tried to narrow the passband from the 2.7 
> nominal that the signals often decreased in 
> intelligibility. I used 1.8 K filters on my Yaesu FT 1K. I 
> also notice I was not tuning dead on to SSB signals, I 
> seemed to be off to the side emphasizing hi end response. 
> I could hear as I swung past the station where the more 
> dead on was. I haven't noticed that with other rigs.
>
> So I am asking:  Would the 1.8 help, and still maintain 
> good intelligibility? What other tweaks or changes have 
> the list members used for top phone performance.
>
> As an aside, I flipped a FT-990 in at the end of the 
> contest wow, I guess part of it is I am spoiled!
>
> 73, Dave NT6AA
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Re: [Elecraft] Where Is It In The Manual?

[wayne burdick]

Cleve,

The RTC in the K3 is specified at 2 seconds per day, I believe. If it's 
worse than this, you may have a slightly mistuned 32 kHz oscillator 
crystal. Please contact k3support for help with this.

Anyone who is really good with surface-mount assembly has the option of 
trying to trim this oscillator closer than we do in the factory :)  One 
capacitor is involved, although the procedure is a bit tricky. Let me 
know if you're interested *and* have the right equipment (an accurate 
freq counter with low-C probe and a very good SMD soldering station).

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Mar 8, 2009, at 9:00 PM, W5CEM wrote:

>
> Hey that's a cool way to set the clock.  TNX.  However since the thing 
> won't
> stay set, I should get good exercise pushing #2 and #3 and rocking the 
> VFO
> knob back and forth.
>
> cleve/W5CEM
>

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Tweak for phone?

[wayne burdick]

On Mar 8, 2009, at 10:11 PM, Dave LaBat wrote:

> I noticed when I tried to narrow the passband from the 2.7 nominal 
> that the signals often decreased in intelligibility. I used 1.8 K 
> filters on my Yaesu FT 1K. I also notice I was not tuning dead on to 
> SSB signals, I seemed to be off to the side emphasizing hi end 
> response. I could hear as I swung past the station where the more dead 
> on was. I haven't noticed that with other rigs.

Hi Dave,

When you reduce WIDTH in SSB mode, the center frequency is maintained 
(at 1500 Hz), because the K3 doesn't know if you're reducing WIDTH in 
order to cut the highs or the lows -- it just does both.

Instead, you can:

- tap one of the knobs to switch to LO CUT/HI CUT instead, and do a HI 
CUT

Or

- after reducing WIDTH, use SHIFT to move the passband where you'd like 
it for best clarity.

You can save two settings you like (in each mode) using the NORM1/2 
feature, or presets I/II. These are covered in the owner's manual.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] SN 6688 lives!

[Don Wilhelm]

Allan,

I forgot to mention - after you adjust the 10 meter bandpass, then 
adjust the 12 meter capacitors too - the proper setting depends on the 
setting of the inductors which will be changed if you re-peak 10 meters.

73,
Don W3FPR

Allen Wisbey wrote:
> Hello all!
>
> I am proud to say that K2 sn 6688 is alive and well in Hutchinson, KS, USA
>
> I finished up all of the preliminary testing and alignment, then built 
> the option boards (DSP, SSB, NB, 60mtr, 160mtr).
>
> A few minutes ago I did some over-the-air checks on 40mtrs with a friend 
> across town. All sounded good to him, so needless to say I am pleased.
>
> There was one glitch though, we shifted up to 28.400, and my audio level 
> dropped way off. I had to practically yell in the mike for my friend to 
> hear me. Is this a common thing that 10mtrs needs more punch or do I 
> have a problem? Any ideas on what I might be able to do? I saw something 
> in the manual about changing r15 on the SSB board, but I think that only 
> applies to SSBA level 1,  I was set at SSBA level 3, SSBC 1-1.
>
> When I received the "box 'o parts" I was a bit intimidated. After 
> perusing the manual I was put very much at ease and pressed on. The 
> manual was so well written I think that anyone with an appropriate 
> soldering iron could put it together.
>
> The biggest thrill I have is when I tackle a project, be it for work 
> where I do building automation programming, or building a kit like this, 
> is when you are finished and it all works as you expect.
> What a wonderful project this has been!
>
> 73 de Allen, W1SBY
>
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>
>
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> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.9/1989 - Release Date: 03/07/09 
> 18:43:00
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 + XV-144 use on EME

[wayne burdick]

On Mar 8, 2009, at 9:23 PM, eric norris wrote:

> This weekend I put my new K3 + XV-144 on EME using JT65 for the first 
> time.  I have these questions:
>
> 1.  Using USB, I got a 20% TX power fluctuation depending on the tone 
> being sent.

Hi Eric,

The K3's 8-pole, 2.8 kHz filter has typically less than +/- 1 dB 
ripple. The 5-pole 2.7-kHz filter can be higher. "20%" power 
fluctuation is only 1.5 dB, so this could entirely account for what 
you're seeing. It may be possible to compensate using TX EQ, but it 
would be more accurate to compensate directly at the DSP's IF, which is 
on our list for future consideration.

Does the present amount of amplitude variation affect JT65's accuracy?

>
> 2.  The first station I worked off the moon reported my TX signal 
> being abt 600 Hz high.  My XV-144 has the xtal oven and had been on 
> for an hour before I got on the air.  I was able to dial this in using 
> XVTR OFFSET, but I had to set it to +600 to move the signal down 
> 600Hz.  Shouldn't this work the opposite way?

Yes. In the XVn OFS menu entry, you're telling the K3 how far off your 
transverter is, and in what direction. The K3 compensates the VFO for 
this.

>
> 3.  While monkeying with the XVTR OFFSET, both VFOs locked on the K3, 
> every time I would change the parameter and exit the menu VFO A would 
> be set to 144.200, and the preamp would be on when I had turned it off 
> and set the attenuator.  Is this a possible firmware issue?

Maybe. Please give me the exact series of K3 switch/knob events so I 
can try to duplicate it.

> Did I mention I LOVE THIS RIG!

Yes :)

Thanks!

73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Tweak for phone?

[Dave LaBat]

Interesting weekend. First time I've had strong enough signals at the K3 that I 
felt like I was pushing it at all. 

I have my K3 configured with only a 250 Hz for extra filters, ridiculously 
narrow for everyday CW, great in a contest! I have no other SSB filters. 

With CW I have noticed that seemingly no matter how strong the nearby signals I 
can dig out the weak one in between. Didn't seem that way, as much. on phone. I 
struggled to pull the weak one with nearby strong stations. Used the Attenuator 
a lot this weekend. 

I noticed when I tried to narrow the passband from the 2.7 nominal that the 
signals often decreased in intelligibility. I used 1.8 K filters on my Yaesu FT 
1K. I also notice I was not tuning dead on to SSB signals, I seemed to be off 
to the side emphasizing hi end response. I could hear as I swung past the 
station where the more dead on was. I haven't noticed that with other rigs. 

So I am asking:  Would the 1.8 help, and still maintain good intelligibility? 
What other tweaks or changes have the list members used for top phone 
performance. 

As an aside, I flipped a FT-990 in at the end of the contest wow, I guess 
part of it is I am spoiled! 

73, Dave NT6AA
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] SN 6688 lives!

[Don Wilhelm]

Allan,

Set the 10 meter bandpass filter to peak on 28400 rather than the 28200 
suggested in the manual and you will likely have more 10 meter 
coverage.  Note that the 10 meter band specification for the K2 is from 
28.0 to 28.8 MHz, so do expect output to fall off above that frequency.

73,
Don W3FPR

Allen Wisbey wrote:
> Hello all!
>
> I am proud to say that K2 sn 6688 is alive and well in Hutchinson, KS, USA
>
> I finished up all of the preliminary testing and alignment, then built 
> the option boards (DSP, SSB, NB, 60mtr, 160mtr).
>
> A few minutes ago I did some over-the-air checks on 40mtrs with a friend 
> across town. All sounded good to him, so needless to say I am pleased.
>
> There was one glitch though, we shifted up to 28.400, and my audio level 
> dropped way off. I had to practically yell in the mike for my friend to 
> hear me. Is this a common thing that 10mtrs needs more punch or do I 
> have a problem? Any ideas on what I might be able to do? I saw something 
> in the manual about changing r15 on the SSB board, but I think that only 
> applies to SSBA level 1,  I was set at SSBA level 3, SSBC 1-1.
>
> When I received the "box 'o parts" I was a bit intimidated. After 
> perusing the manual I was put very much at ease and pressed on. The 
> manual was so well written I think that anyone with an appropriate 
> soldering iron could put it together.
>
> The biggest thrill I have is when I tackle a project, be it for work 
> where I do building automation programming, or building a kit like this, 
> is when you are finished and it all works as you expect.
> What a wonderful project this has been!
>
> 73 de Allen, W1SBY
>
> __
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> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>
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> 
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.9/1989 - Release Date: 03/07/09 
> 18:43:00
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Transverter/HF

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

2.99 was sent out to a fairly good size group to test over the weekend.

I think you will see a release to the public very soon.  Very few issues
have been brought up. 


"A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over." Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Radio Amateur N5GE
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 9:56 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Transverter/HF

On Sun, 8 Mar 2009 15:22:39 -0700, wayne burdick 
wrote:

[snip]
>I thought I had fixed that in the most recent code (2.99). Is that what 
>you're using?
>
[snip]

I don't see the 2.99 firmware listed in the firmware downloads or beta
downloads.  Was that a slip of the lip??

Tom, N5GE

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[Elecraft] K3 + XV-144 use on EME

[eric norris]

Dear Elecrafters:

This weekend I put my new K3 + XV-144 on EME using JT65 for the first time.  I 
have these questions:

1.  Using USB, I got a 20% TX power fluctuation depending on the tone being 
sent.  By going to TX ESSB, this is reduced to about 10-15%.  Is there a way to 
even out the TX power?  My previous rig (TS-2000) would send the various tones 
with only a few watts (out of the 500w amp) variation.  I tried compression as 
well, but it didn't help much at low compression settings.  I also tried the TX 
EQUALIZATION but I think the bands overlap the tones.  What's the best strategy 
here?

2.  The first station I worked off the moon reported my TX signal being abt 600 
Hz high.  My XV-144 has the xtal oven and had been on for an hour before I got 
on the air.  I was able to dial this in using XVTR OFFSET, but I had to set it 
to +600 to move the signal down 600Hz.  Shouldn't this work the opposite way?

3.  While monkeying with the XVTR OFFSET, both VFOs locked on the K3, every 
time I would change the parameter and exit the menu VFO A would be set to 
144.200, and the preamp would be on when I had turned it off and set the 
attenuator.  Is this a possible firmware issue?  It would be easier to fiddle 
with XVTR OFFSET if these other parameters just stayed locked.  By working 
several stations of known frequency accuracy, by subtracting the calculated 
Doppler shift from the actual frequency difference I managed to get the XV-144 
pretty close in frequency I think.

Did I mention I LOVE THIS RIG!

Thanks and 73

Eric WD6DBM 
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Re: [Elecraft] Where Is It In The Manual?

[W5CEM]

Hey that's a cool way to set the clock.  TNX.  However since the thing won't
stay set, I should get good exercise pushing #2 and #3 and rocking the VFO
knob back and forth.  

cleve/W5CEM

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Where-Is-It-In-The-Manual--tp2447002p2447408.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Transverter/HF

[Radio Amateur N5GE]

On Sun, 8 Mar 2009 15:22:39 -0700, wayne burdick 
wrote:

[snip]
>I thought I had fixed that in the most recent code (2.99). Is that what 
>you're using?
>
[snip]

I don't see the 2.99 firmware listed in the firmware downloads or beta
downloads.  Was that a slip of the lip??

Tom, N5GE

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[Elecraft] [K2] Long term reliability with leaving radio on 24/7???

[Mike-WE0H]

Has anyone left their K2 on 24/7 for freq stability reason's? Or ran 
QRSS and can say how well it stayed put? Previously when I was running 
1750 meters, I used to leave my TS-440 on 24/7 for a couple years. It 
still worked after all that time running...hi hi...But what I would like 
to know is, would the K2 be expected to run say for a year straight 
without any issues? Of course no antenna would be connected when it 
shouldn't be...I have had it running for about 9 hours today and did the 
calibration a couple hours ago and the radio is dead nuts stable within 
1hz of what the reference oscillators here are which are calibrated to 
WWV. I haven't had the chance yet to let it come down to room temp and 
be turned back on and see where the calibration would be at. Anyone with 
experience in this stuff?

Many thanks,
Mike
WE0H
K2 S/N 6698
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[Elecraft] [K2] SN 6688 lives!

[Allen Wisbey]

Hello all!

I am proud to say that K2 sn 6688 is alive and well in Hutchinson, KS, USA

I finished up all of the preliminary testing and alignment, then built 
the option boards (DSP, SSB, NB, 60mtr, 160mtr).

A few minutes ago I did some over-the-air checks on 40mtrs with a friend 
across town. All sounded good to him, so needless to say I am pleased.

There was one glitch though, we shifted up to 28.400, and my audio level 
dropped way off. I had to practically yell in the mike for my friend to 
hear me. Is this a common thing that 10mtrs needs more punch or do I 
have a problem? Any ideas on what I might be able to do? I saw something 
in the manual about changing r15 on the SSB board, but I think that only 
applies to SSBA level 1,  I was set at SSBA level 3, SSBC 1-1.

When I received the "box 'o parts" I was a bit intimidated. After 
perusing the manual I was put very much at ease and pressed on. The 
manual was so well written I think that anyone with an appropriate 
soldering iron could put it together.

The biggest thrill I have is when I tackle a project, be it for work 
where I do building automation programming, or building a kit like this, 
is when you are finished and it all works as you expect.
What a wonderful project this has been!

73 de Allen, W1SBY

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for March 8th & 9th, 2009

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
   Wow!  I had forgotten how much fun it was to be at the end of a pile up!  
Having two nets really helped as well as good propagation on both of them.  
Each net ran for over forty minutes.  I did get one complaint: the SSB net had 
been cancelled or W0NTA would have had a 3-fer ;)  Hopefully next week he can 
get his wish.  I do believe this is why Wayne and Eric work so hard to bring us 
these rigs.  It's not quite a contest, like they enjoy, but I am sure they 
don't mind us getting on the air and using their rigs.  It is a good way to 
test propagation and meet a few like minded people.  Then WC7S called and my 
mind went blank.  He thought I needed a little QRS but no I needed a brain 
transplant instead :)  It had been too long Dale, and with such a fine signal.  
   It appears winter is back in some parts of the country.  I was getting snow 
during the first net and had two new inches by dinner time.  It is not snowing 
now and the sky was clear for sunset but more is on the way.  I did get a few 
reports of 50 and 60 degree weather but poor Pete had a cool day in Southern 
California; must have been in the low 70s :)  Hopefully they got some of the 
moisture which has been hitting us up here all week.  Early on I was getting 
rain but since Thursday it has been snow.  Just checked, our next solar stream 
is due to hit on March 11th or 12th.  This should keep propagation perky for 
those fox hunters.  My sister told me the ground hog predicted a longer winter. 
 Hope he is comfy in his burrow.  I've gone through one wood pile and most of 
another.  I'll be working on the large pile in the back soon if the weather 
does not break.  The hummingbirds will need little parkas when they get here at 
this rate.

   On to the lists =>

  On 14050 kHz at 2300z:
WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392
NN8K - Sonny - WV - K1 - 380
NO2D - Peter - CO - K3 - 2126
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
K9ZTV - Kent - MO - K3 - 21 
W0NTA - Dick - CO - K3 - 1208
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686   QNI #70!!!
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398 ** QNI #210 **
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
K7TV - Erik - AZ - K3 - 1837
KS7D - Mike - FL - K3 - 118
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
W1TF - Ty - GA - K3 - 696
K2HYD - Ray - NC - KX1 - 608

  On 7044.5 kHz at 0100z:
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K3 - 657
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798
WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392
WI6O - John - CA - K1 - 922
WA1ABI - John - RI - K3 - 795
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
K7TV - Erik - AZ - K3 - 1837
W6HPK - Steve - WA - K3 - 365
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
WC7S - Dale - WY - K2 - 4360
W0NTA - Dick - CO - K3 - 1208
K9ZTV - Kent - MO - K3 - 21
N4SAM - Sam - AL - K2 - 6143
N2YC - John - NY - K2 - 5949

   It was very nice to hear so many stations.  It feels like a reward after all 
those weeks of struggling.  Even better was hearing some of you I have not 
heard in a coon's age.  Reminds me why I keep doing this each week.  Simply 
doing my part to drive the list moderator a little crazy :)  Thanks for putting 
up with me Eric!!  Thank you, all you friendly fists, for all the check ins 
from around the continent.  I should have called for a separate NCS during the 
20 meter net but somehow the opportunity was missed.  I could have asked a 
number of you to make a call but did not.  I will make a note to myself to try 
that because I know a couple of you could not hear me on twenty meters.  But 
the net was pretty full even though I missed some.  It has been too long with 
so little work that I just plain forgot.  Next week I shall try again to gather 
as many as possible and practice my 'skills'.  It is fun!
   Until next week stay warm and stay well.  Pete - wear a down vest so you 
don't freeze!
  73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Dale Putnam]

Congratulations James, and if you want to practice your cw... email me.. or 
catch me on the air.. I'd be happy to match your speed, and practice with 
you... K?

And you know, there are a lot of extra's around that passed the written part, 
first.. then passed the cw test later.. and I don't necessarily mean the cw 
test administered at the test session.. although there were some that did that 
too... but the cw test that comes around ever qso.. and that is simply having a 
fun converstation with someone. 

  Good for you James, hang in... and if you care to try cw for speed  try a 
bit of a contest here and there... that works pretty well too...

Hope to see you in my log one day too...

--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


 

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Gary D Krause]

Congratulations, James!  Now you need to celebrate by buying yourself a 
present.  How about a brand new K3!

73,
Gary, N7HTS


On Sun, 8 Mar 2009 13:59:02 -0400
  "James Sarte"  wrote:
> Hello fellow Elecrafters,
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you that I
> passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors.  Hope to have my license
> info updated on the ULS within a few days!
> 
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
> James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)
> 
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[Elecraft] Where Is It In The Manual?

[Roy Morris]

I believe I understand Jim's question.  How do you get the internal clock to 
coincide with WWV to the second?  Jim, Go to CONFIG: TIME.  Adjust the internal 
clock time for 1 min ahead of WWV by tapping #2 keypad.  Tap #3 keypad to 
adjust the seconds and keep turning the VFO A counterclockwise to keep the 
second display at zero.  When WWV gets to the min ahead, quit rotating VFO A.  
It may take a little practice, but you can set the clock to within a second.  
Keep in mind that the internal clock loses time so this precision doesn't mean 
a whole lot.  I have a wall clock that receives the time signal from WWV.  I 
use this wall clock to set my internal clock.  Anyway, this is the way I do it. 
 I am sure if there is a better way someone will let us know.  
It surely would be nice if the internal clock received the signal from WWV.  
Roy Morris  W4WFB
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Re: [Elecraft] Photos of K3 with various knobs for A and B VFO's

[T Gahagan]

Hi James,

The Kenwood knob needed to be machined slightly to fit the nut holding the 
encoder in the front panel and the hole was drilled slightly larger to 
accommodate the K3 encoder shaft.

Todd, WA7U

- Original Message - 
From: "James Sarte" 
To: "'T Gahagan'" ; "'Elecraft List'" 

Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 4:59 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Photos of K3 with various knobs for A and B VFO's


> That Kenwood weighted knob from WA7U looks like an almost perfect fit. 
> Was
> the shaft OD on the Kenwood's VFO similar to the K3?
>
> 73,
> James KC2UEE
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of T Gahagan
> Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 6:19 PM
> To: Elecraft List
> Subject: [Elecraft] Photos of K3 with various knobs for A and B VFO's
>
> Several of you wanted a photo of the K2 knob being used as the K3 B-VFO
> knob.  Here's the link and thanks to Don, WB8YQJ for posting the photos.
>
> Todd, WA7U
>
>
> http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/SpotLight_on_K3
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Where is it in the MANUAL???

[Mike B]

What step of the manual's instructions doesn't seem to be working for you?  I'm
sure there are several here willing to help, but it won't do you or us any good
to just recite the manual if some part of it isn't clear for you.

> For some reason nothing came about OUR query about the "internal clock"
> within the
> K3!!!
> 
> Can someone please come up with something that is coherent and usable???
> 
> How to set the "hour/minute/sec" to coincide with WWV???
> 
> Jim/nn6ee

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Where is it in the MANUAL???

[JIM DAVIS]

For some reason nothing came about OUR query about the "internal clock" within 
the
K3!!!

Can someone please come up with something that is coherent and usable???

How to set the "hour/minute/sec" to coincide with WWV???

Jim/nn6ee
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Re: [Elecraft] WTB: K2/100

[NZ0T]

Hi Tom,

I keep playing with the idea of selling my SN 5703 with KPA100, KSB2,
K160RX, K60XV, KNB2 and KAF2 but no DSP.  Since I got my K3 I don't use the
K2 much.  If interested let me know at n...@cox.net.

73 Bill NZ0T

K3MOV wrote:
> 
> I am looking for K2 (serial number 4060 or higher), 100w amp (with I/O),
> audio DSP, SSB. Other options are fine but not necessary. Tnx es 73, Tom
> K3MOV
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View this message in context: 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 : C22 question

[Mike-WE0H]

Use the 2.7pf. It says in the parts list this is a substitute value.
I seen that also when I got to that point and said to myself, where the 
%...@!& is the 3.3p cap???

Mike
WE0H
K2 S/N 6698



Fred  N9TA wrote:
> I can't find C22, which is supposed to be a 3.3pf. However, I have a 2.7 
> pf cap leftover.
> I notice that in the parts list for C22 it reads: "2R7, 3, 3.3, 3R3". I 
> suspect I am supposed
> to substitute the 2.7pf for the 3.3pfis this correct???
>
>   Fred  N9TAK2# 6705 under construction
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Re: [Elecraft] [MM] The W1 LED Experiment

[Bill Johnson]

Joel,

Thank you very much! Let me know when you "land" and do send photos.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods


-Original Message-
From: Joel Curneal [mailto:jcurn...@meridenarc.org] 
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 3:50 PM
To: Bill Johnson; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [MM] The W1 LED Experiment

The p/ns for the leds that I used from www.sparkfun.com are
Red  --   COM-00528
Yellow  --   COM-00530( it lights up as amber )
Green  --  Com-08285

These are T-13/4 round leds.  They do fit in the spaces provided although
they do cover up part of the the silkscreened SWR values.  I filed off some
of the flanges so more of the silkscreened SWR values show.  I did not
change the power leds.

I used 3 green ones ( 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 ),  2 yellow ones ( 1.5, 1.7 ) and 5 red
ones.

I do not have any pictures,  I am in the process of moving and much of my
stuff is packed up.  I will get the W1 out and take a couple of pictures as
soon as I can.

Joel   N1JEO

- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Johnson" 
To: "'Joel Curneal'" ; 
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 1:23 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] [MM] The W1 LED Experiment


> Joel,
>
> Do you have the part #'s as I note there are a couple different in each
> color?  I note these are round versions and I wonder if these are
difficult
> to line up in the display due to any manufacturing differences.  Do you
have
> a Picture of your finished product?
>
> 73,
>
> Bill
> K9YEQ
> K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joel Curneal
> Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 4:22 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [MM] The W1 LED Experiment
>
> Has anyone else tried high intensity leds in their W1?  I replaced the
leds
> in my W1 with high intensity red,  yellow (amber), and green leds from
> Sparkfun Electronics.  A pic can drive them to a much higher light output
> without any other changes to the W1 circuit board.  The light output from
> the different colors is almost the same on a stock W1 board.
>
> Joel,  N1JEO
>
> - Original Message - 
>
>
> > I apologize for taking so long to conduct the LED experiment and get
> > back with everyone interested. I had some lead times on parts I ordered
> > not to mention getting some time to run everything through. I must
> > mention first that I had to do numerous swaps of different LEDs and
> > resistor packs and this simply would not have been possible to do in a
> > timely manner without using my new Hakko 808 desoldering tool. I'm sure
> > I would have damaged the W1 PCB trying to do it manually over and over
> > again. That thing was worth every penny I paid for it.
> >
> > The slight differences in forward voltages of the various LEDs played no
> > appreciable role in current consumption. So I'll just list the 3
> > resistor pack values I used. I did look up the LM78L05 regulator spec
> > sheet and found out it will produce up to 100ma output current. The
> > current W1 design operates at far less than that. The LEDs are probably
> > pulse width modulated (or simply polled) by the PIC also so the current
> > draw per LED seems to be about half of what you would calculate with a
> > voltage of around 3v and the resistor pack value.
> >
> > Here is some of the data:
> >
> > W1 idle current: 13.8 ma
> >
> > Current draw regardless of LED type per resistor pack value (18 out of
> > 20 LEDs lit):
> >
> > 2.0k - 27.5ma
> > 1.0k - 39.3ma
> > 470  - 63.0ma
> >
> > I wanted to try an 810 or 680 ohm resistor pack, but could not get them
> > in time from Digi-Key. As I personally wanted to stay within the 50ma
> > range, the 1.0k value works for me. Like I said, to my eyes in a well
> > lit environment, this value seemed to work fine with the Lumex LEDs
> > although the Avago red LEDs were a hair brighter.
> >
> > Part numbers:
> > My configuration:
> >
> > All Digi-Key part #'s
> >
> > Lumex Red 2x5mm LED- 67-1047-ND
> > Lumex Yellow 2x5mm LED - 67-1050-ND
> > Lumex Green 2x5mm LED  - 67-1046-ND
> >
> >
> >
> > 73,
> > Dave W8FGU
> >
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 LCD LIGHT

[wayne burdick]

This would be very difficult, Gary. The LCD backlight is integrated 
with the LCD itself, as a module, and if I remember correctly it 
contains an array of 14 LEDs. The LED color is fixed, and there are no 
plans to offer an alternate color.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Mar 8, 2009, at 4:06 PM, rfenab...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> Has anyone changed the backlight display color on their K3?
>
> Just curious to know if it can be changed from the standard "orange"
>
> Thank You
> Gary
> VK4WT
>
> Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 LCD LIGHT

[James Sarte]

I don't think it's possible; at least not in software.  Looks like something
(i.e. LCD screen backlighting or the entire LCD itself) in hardware would
have to be replaced.

73,
James KC2UEE

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of rfenab...@gmail.com
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 7:06 PM
To: 'Elecraft List'
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 LCD LIGHT

Hello All,

Has anyone changed the backlight display color on their K3?

Just curious to know if it can be changed from the standard "orange"

Thank You
Gary
VK4WT

Sent via BlackBerryR from Telstra
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[Elecraft] K3 LCD LIGHT

[rfenabled]

Hello All,

Has anyone changed the backlight display color on their K3?

Just curious to know if it can be changed from the standard "orange"

Thank You
Gary
VK4WT

Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] Photos of K3 with various knobs for A and B VFO's

[James Sarte]

That Kenwood weighted knob from WA7U looks like an almost perfect fit.  Was
the shaft OD on the Kenwood's VFO similar to the K3?

73,
James KC2UEE



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of T Gahagan
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 6:19 PM
To: Elecraft List
Subject: [Elecraft] Photos of K3 with various knobs for A and B VFO's

Several of you wanted a photo of the K2 knob being used as the K3 B-VFO
knob.  Here's the link and thanks to Don, WB8YQJ for posting the photos.

Todd, WA7U


http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/SpotLight_on_K3
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[Elecraft] [K3] K3 and K2 AC Input Power

[John W2XS]

There was a mention a while ago about a JA contest where the efficiency was
measured at the power supply input and compared to the transmitter output. 

I bought one of those little $20 “Kill-a-Watt” meters to measure AC Input
Power. The meter gets plugged into the AC wall socket and then the device to
be measured gets plugged into the meter. It reads out in volts, amps, and
watts.  I used the watts setting. It also measured the line frequency and
the power factor and KWH.

Here are the results with my K3 and K2. I have an Astron RS-35A supply. At
first, I was a little surprised at the total AC power. But I had never
before considered the efficiency of the power supply itself. I used the
rig’s voltage and current displays to calculate the DC input power for the
rig itself.

K3 Receive Total AC Input Power = 35 W.
K3 display says 13.8 V and 1.08 A which = 15 W.
Therefore the Astron is dissipating 35 W – 15 W = 20 W.

By the way, the Astron supply all by itself with no load measures 11 W.

K3 Transmit (100 W output) Total AC Input Power = 396 W.
K3 display says 13.3 V and 17.4 A which = 231 W.
Therefore the Astron is dissipating 396 W – 231 W = 165 W.

So the K3 is 43% efficient (100 W output divided by 231 W input) but the
system is only 25% efficient (100 W output divided by 396 W input).

I repeated the measurements for the K2.  I used what the display said and
did not take into account the voltage drop of the internal diode.

K2 Receive Total AC Input Power = 17 W.
K2 display says 13.2 V and 340 mA which = 4.5 W.
Therefore the Astron is dissipating 17 W – 4.5 W = 12.5 W.

K2 Transmit (10 W output) Total AC Input Power = 69 W.
K2 display says 12.6 V and 2.8 A which = 35 W.
Therefore the Astron is dissipating 69 W – 35 W = 34 W.

I measured the AC input power for a few other things in the shack:

Drake SSR-1 receiver = 10 W
Hallicrafters S-85 receiver = 73 W
Hallicrafters S38-E receiver = 28 W
Drake R4-A receiver = 61 W
Redsun RP2100 receiver = 4 W
Holmes electric heater = 1400 W

We could calculate the efficiency of the receivers using, say, 1 W audio
output.  But you probably have more information at this point than you
really wanted. hi hi.  Next to be measured here will be the TV sets and the
computers.

73,

John W2XS


-- 
View this message in context: 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Transverter/HF

[wayne burdick]

On Mar 8, 2009, at 3:37 AM, Stewart Baker wrote:

> I don't know if I am trying to do the impossible, wanting to
> listen on 2m and 80m simultaneously.
>
> I have a homebrew 2m transverter connected via the KXV3 with a
> 28MHz I/F setting.
>
> If I set up 2m on Main RX , then I cannot get anything out of the
> Sub RX when set to 80m.

You would have to use the AUX RF input for the sub RX in this case 
(because the "MAIN" path is connected to the transverter IN jack on the 
KXV3). Hold BSET, then tap ANT to switch the sub from MAIN to AUX. 
"AUX" can be either the non-transmit KAT3 jack or the AUX RF BNC jack, 
depending on how your sub receiver is wired.

>
> If I set up 80m on Main RX , then I cannot get anything out of the
> Sub RX when set to 2m.

If the main RX is listening on 80 m, then the KXV3's XVTR IN jack is 
not available to the sub. You would have to bring the transverter 
signal in to the sub's AUX RF BNC jack. You could use a "Y" cable to 
route the transverer signal to both XVTR IN and AUX RF.

> Further, when I tune the Sub RX the display
> changes from a 2m to the I/F frequency.

I thought I had fixed that in the most recent code (2.99). Is that what 
you're using?

tnx
Wayne
N6KR


>
> What's going on ?
>
> 73
> Stewart G3RXQ
>
>
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] Photos of K3 with various knobs for A and B VFO's

[T Gahagan]

Several of you wanted a photo of the K2 knob being used as the K3 B-VFO knob.  
Here's the link and thanks to Don, WB8YQJ for posting the photos.

Todd, WA7U


http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/SpotLight_on_K3
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 : C22 question

[DK Duncan]

>I can't find C22, which is supposed to be a 3.3pf.
>However, I have a 2.7 pf cap leftover.
>I notice that in the parts list for C22 it reads:
>"2R7, 3, 3.3, 3R3". I suspect I am supposed
>to substitute the 2.7pf for the 3.3pfis this correct???

Mine was 2.7pF as well.  It's correct.



~Don
---
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[Elecraft] K2 : C22 question

[Fred Bennett N9TA]

I can't find C22, which is supposed to be a 3.3pf. However, I have a 2.7 
pf cap leftover.
I notice that in the parts list for C22 it reads: "2R7, 3, 3.3, 3R3". I 
suspect I am supposed
to substitute the 2.7pf for the 3.3pfis this correct???

  Fred  N9TAK2# 6705 under construction
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[Elecraft] WTB: K2/100

[tomk3mov]

I am looking for K2 (serial number 4060 or higher), 100w amp (with I/O), audio 
DSP, SSB. Other options are fine but not necessary. Tnx es 73, Tom K3MOV
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Re: [Elecraft] [MM] The W1 LED Experiment

[Joel Curneal]

The p/ns for the leds that I used from www.sparkfun.com are
Red  --   COM-00528
Yellow  --   COM-00530( it lights up as amber )
Green  --  Com-08285

These are T-13/4 round leds.  They do fit in the spaces provided although
they do cover up part of the the silkscreened SWR values.  I filed off some
of the flanges so more of the silkscreened SWR values show.  I did not
change the power leds.

I used 3 green ones ( 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 ),  2 yellow ones ( 1.5, 1.7 ) and 5 red
ones.

I do not have any pictures,  I am in the process of moving and much of my
stuff is packed up.  I will get the W1 out and take a couple of pictures as
soon as I can.

Joel   N1JEO

- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Johnson" 
To: "'Joel Curneal'" ; 
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 1:23 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] [MM] The W1 LED Experiment


> Joel,
>
> Do you have the part #'s as I note there are a couple different in each
> color?  I note these are round versions and I wonder if these are
difficult
> to line up in the display due to any manufacturing differences.  Do you
have
> a Picture of your finished product?
>
> 73,
>
> Bill
> K9YEQ
> K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joel Curneal
> Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 4:22 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [MM] The W1 LED Experiment
>
> Has anyone else tried high intensity leds in their W1?  I replaced the
leds
> in my W1 with high intensity red,  yellow (amber), and green leds from
> Sparkfun Electronics.  A pic can drive them to a much higher light output
> without any other changes to the W1 circuit board.  The light output from
> the different colors is almost the same on a stock W1 board.
>
> Joel,  N1JEO
>
> - Original Message - 
>
>
> > I apologize for taking so long to conduct the LED experiment and get
> > back with everyone interested. I had some lead times on parts I ordered
> > not to mention getting some time to run everything through. I must
> > mention first that I had to do numerous swaps of different LEDs and
> > resistor packs and this simply would not have been possible to do in a
> > timely manner without using my new Hakko 808 desoldering tool. I'm sure
> > I would have damaged the W1 PCB trying to do it manually over and over
> > again. That thing was worth every penny I paid for it.
> >
> > The slight differences in forward voltages of the various LEDs played no
> > appreciable role in current consumption. So I'll just list the 3
> > resistor pack values I used. I did look up the LM78L05 regulator spec
> > sheet and found out it will produce up to 100ma output current. The
> > current W1 design operates at far less than that. The LEDs are probably
> > pulse width modulated (or simply polled) by the PIC also so the current
> > draw per LED seems to be about half of what you would calculate with a
> > voltage of around 3v and the resistor pack value.
> >
> > Here is some of the data:
> >
> > W1 idle current: 13.8 ma
> >
> > Current draw regardless of LED type per resistor pack value (18 out of
> > 20 LEDs lit):
> >
> > 2.0k - 27.5ma
> > 1.0k - 39.3ma
> > 470  - 63.0ma
> >
> > I wanted to try an 810 or 680 ohm resistor pack, but could not get them
> > in time from Digi-Key. As I personally wanted to stay within the 50ma
> > range, the 1.0k value works for me. Like I said, to my eyes in a well
> > lit environment, this value seemed to work fine with the Lumex LEDs
> > although the Avago red LEDs were a hair brighter.
> >
> > Part numbers:
> > My configuration:
> >
> > All Digi-Key part #'s
> >
> > Lumex Red 2x5mm LED- 67-1047-ND
> > Lumex Yellow 2x5mm LED - 67-1050-ND
> > Lumex Green 2x5mm LED  - 67-1046-ND
> >
> >
> >
> > 73,
> > Dave W8FGU
> >
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Heil PR-781 and K3?

[James Sarte]

Hi Phil,

Just for clarification, would that be the CC1 XLR-K cable?

73,
James KC2UEE

-Original Message-
From: Phil LaMarche [mailto:plama...@verizon.net] 
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 4:45 PM
To: 'James Sarte'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Heil PR-781 and K3?


That's all you need.  I use an Electro voice RE 27 with mine and use the
Heil/Kenwood XLR connector.

Phil 


Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com 
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605
W9DVM 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James Sarte
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 4:40 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Heil PR-781 and K3?

What do I need to interface this microphone to my K3?  To my understanding,
the K3 uses the same pin configuration as a Kenwood, so would all I need is
this mic, a trigger, and a Heil Kenwood cable??

 

73,

James KC2UEE

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604]

And then there are a few of us "13-wpm Extras" who were Advanced class
until they changed the criteria, and then got an Extra on the basis of
our 5 wpm Novice licenses.  I passed the Extra written about 4 times,
but never could stop thinking enough to get 20wpm.

73, doug

   From: "James Sarte" 
   Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 16:38:33 -0400

   Yup... that would make me a "no-code Extra."

   I am working on learning the code though!  

   73,
   James KC2UEE 

   -Original Message-
   From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
   [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rob May
   Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 4:26 PM
   To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra


   No Dick, that would be no code Extra, Extra-lite is 5 wpm.  Glad to be able
   to clear that up for you.  Don't matter, cause they all have the same
   privileges. ;-)  
   Rob
   NV5E (Extra-lite)
   (Tongue in cheek, not meant as a criticism to anyone, please do not flame!)


   > From: groll...@planet.nl
   > To: kc2...@gmail.com; kw...@comcast.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   > Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 20:51:09 +0100
   > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra
   > 
   > Isn't that Extra-light? with no code?
   > 
   > 73 de Dick PA3FQA, N7QA
   > also Extra
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[Elecraft] Heil PR-781 and K3?

[James Sarte]

What do I need to interface this microphone to my K3?  To my understanding,
the K3 uses the same pin configuration as a Kenwood, so would all I need is
this mic, a trigger, and a Heil Kenwood cable??

 

73,

James KC2UEE

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Dick Dievendorff]

Since the code test is no longer administered, even if one were to request
it, it's a bit of a flame-bait question.  What choice would he have?

He's accomplished a meaningful milestone.  Congratulations!

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dick Grolleman
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 12:51 PM
To: James Sarte; 'Mike B'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

Isn't that Extra-light? with no code?

73 de Dick PA3FQA, N7QA
also Extra

- Original Message - 
From: "James Sarte" 
To: "'Mike B'" ; 
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra


> Hi Mike,
>
> Thanks for your email.  Good deal on the brownie points!  I however, even 
> as
> a new Extra don't impress some of my colleagues at work.  One of them is 
> the
> station master for 4UN1UN (I work at the UN), so I have a lot to live up
> too!
>
> 73,
> James KC2UEE
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike B
> Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 2:31 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra
>
> Congratulations, James!  It's a definite accomplishment, and one to be 
> proud
> of.
> Heck, I even put it on my resume!  (I found out after being hired in my
> current
> position that my boss is a Tech-class, so having an Extra-class was a
> definite
> brownie point.)
>
> 73,
>
> Mike
> KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[James Sarte]

Yup... that would make me a "no-code Extra."

I am working on learning the code though!  

73,
James KC2UEE 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rob May
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 4:26 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra


No Dick, that would be no code Extra, Extra-lite is 5 wpm.  Glad to be able
to clear that up for you.  Don't matter, cause they all have the same
privileges. ;-)  
Rob
NV5E (Extra-lite)
(Tongue in cheek, not meant as a criticism to anyone, please do not flame!)


> From: groll...@planet.nl
> To: kc2...@gmail.com; kw...@comcast.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 20:51:09 +0100
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra
> 
> Isn't that Extra-light? with no code?
> 
> 73 de Dick PA3FQA, N7QA
> also Extra


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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Rob May]

No Dick, that would be no code Extra, Extra-lite is 5 wpm.  Glad to be able to 
clear that up for you.  Don't matter, cause they all have the same privileges. 
;-)  
Rob
NV5E (Extra-lite)
(Tongue in cheek, not meant as a criticism to anyone, please do not flame!)


> From: groll...@planet.nl
> To: kc2...@gmail.com; kw...@comcast.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 20:51:09 +0100
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra
> 
> Isn't that Extra-light? with no code?
> 
> 73 de Dick PA3FQA, N7QA
> also Extra


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[Kevin Rock]

Good Afternoon,
   It appears I have done it again.  Each year when the time changes it seems I 
just cannot get the time correct.  I am aiming at 4 PM and 6 PM local but 
things did not work out that way.

Monday 0100z (Sunday 4 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0300z (Sunday 6 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

Should read:

Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0100z (Sunday 6 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

It is Spring ahead and Fall behind.  I guess I simply keep falling behind over 
and over.  Much like the snail and the well!

Thank you for the private reminders :)  

I will see you all in a few hours.
   73,
  Kevin.





-Original Message-
>From: John Reilly 
>Sent: Mar 8, 2009 3:29 PM
>To: kevinr...@earthlink.net
>Subject: Elecraft CW Net Announcement
>
>Did you do the time conversions right? I think 0100Z will be 1800 PDT 
>(and I think 20m will be dead). Also, I think 0300Z is 2000PDT.
>
>Did I move my clocks the wrong way. BTW, I changed my callsign from 
>W0JFR to N0TA -- much shorter.
>   - 73, John

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Dick Grolleman]

Isn't that Extra-light? with no code?

73 de Dick PA3FQA, N7QA
also Extra

- Original Message - 
From: "James Sarte" 
To: "'Mike B'" ; 
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra


> Hi Mike,
>
> Thanks for your email.  Good deal on the brownie points!  I however, even 
> as
> a new Extra don't impress some of my colleagues at work.  One of them is 
> the
> station master for 4UN1UN (I work at the UN), so I have a lot to live up
> too!
>
> 73,
> James KC2UEE
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike B
> Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 2:31 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra
>
> Congratulations, James!  It's a definite accomplishment, and one to be 
> proud
> of.
> Heck, I even put it on my resume!  (I found out after being hired in my
> current
> position that my boss is a Tech-class, so having an Extra-class was a
> definite
> brownie point.)
>
> 73,
>
> Mike
> KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Gary Smith]

Hey hey, 

Congratulations! Welcome to the new places.

It's all the same club o'course, just a different room.

Well done,

Gary
KA1J

> Hello fellow Elecrafters,
> 
>  
> 
> Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you that I
> passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors.  Hope to have my license
> info updated on the ULS within a few days!
> 
>  
> 
> 73,
> 
> James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[James Sarte]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for your email.  Good deal on the brownie points!  I however, even as
a new Extra don't impress some of my colleagues at work.  One of them is the
station master for 4UN1UN (I work at the UN), so I have a lot to live up
too!

73,
James KC2UEE

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike B
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 2:31 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

Congratulations, James!  It's a definite accomplishment, and one to be proud
of.
 Heck, I even put it on my resume!  (I found out after being hired in my
current
position that my boss is a Tech-class, so having an Extra-class was a
definite
brownie point.)

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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[Elecraft] Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Ken Kopp]

Congrats, Jim!!!

73! Rose - N7HKW
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Bob Tellefsen]

FB James
You're certainly in a situation that calls for some
innovative thinking to have a working antenna.
I hope the MP-1 and Buddipole at least let you get
on the air.
Best wishes for a new house with a good rf QTH.
73, Bob N6Wg

- Original Message - 
From: "James Sarte" 
To: "'Bob Tellefsen'" ; 
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 11:54 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra


> Hi Bob,
>
> Thanks for your email!  Not sure what I'll do for an encore... I think I'm
> pretty set for now.  Perhaps my next move will involve buying another 
> house
> (sold my first one, and now in an apartment), where I can actually put up 
> a
> real antenna instead of my little MP-1 or Buddipole. :)
>
> 73,
> James KC2UEE
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Bob Tellefsen [mailto:n...@comcast.net]
> Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 2:52 PM
> To: James Sarte; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra
>
> Congratulations, James.
> It's always satisfying to reach a goal.
>
> Now what will you do for an encore?
> Good luck and 73
> Bob N6WG
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "James Sarte" 
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 10:59 AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra
>
>
>> Hello fellow Elecrafters,
>>
>>
>>
>> Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you that
>> I
>> passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors.  Hope to have my
>> license
>> info updated on the ULS within a few days!
>>
>>
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)
>>
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[James Sarte]

Hi Bob,

Thanks for your email!  Not sure what I'll do for an encore... I think I'm
pretty set for now.  Perhaps my next move will involve buying another house
(sold my first one, and now in an apartment), where I can actually put up a
real antenna instead of my little MP-1 or Buddipole. :)

73,
James KC2UEE

-Original Message-
From: Bob Tellefsen [mailto:n...@comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 2:52 PM
To: James Sarte; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

Congratulations, James.
It's always satisfying to reach a goal.

Now what will you do for an encore?
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: "James Sarte" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 10:59 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra


> Hello fellow Elecrafters,
>
>
>
> Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you that 
> I
> passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors.  Hope to have my 
> license
> info updated on the ULS within a few days!
>
>
>
> 73,
>
> James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Congrats James. I'm sure you feel a fine sense of accomplishment.

See you on the bands.

73,
Dave W8FGU
--Original Message--
From: James Sarte
Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra
Sent: Mar 8, 2009 1:59 PM

Hello fellow Elecrafters,

 

Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you that I
passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors.  Hope to have my license
info updated on the ULS within a few days!

 

73,

James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Bob Tellefsen]

Congratulations, James.
It's always satisfying to reach a goal.

Now what will you do for an encore?
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: "James Sarte" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 10:59 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra


> Hello fellow Elecrafters,
>
>
>
> Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you that 
> I
> passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors.  Hope to have my 
> license
> info updated on the ULS within a few days!
>
>
>
> 73,
>
> James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

Congrats!

James S wrote:
> Hello fellow Elecrafters,
>
>  
>
> Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you 
> that I passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors.  Hope to 
> have my license info updated on the ULS within a few days!
>
>  
>
> 73,
>
> James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)
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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Mike B]

Congratulations, James!  It's a definite accomplishment, and one to be proud of.
 Heck, I even put it on my resume!  (I found out after being hired in my current
position that my boss is a Tech-class, so having an Extra-class was a definite
brownie point.)

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Dale Putnam]

Way to go James!! You're the MAN!

Hope to see you in the Extra parts of the bands

and elsewhere too..

Isn't this a kick?

--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


 
> From: kc2...@gmail.com
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 13:59:02 -0400
> Subject: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra
> 
> Hello fellow Elecrafters,
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you that I
> passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors. Hope to have my license
> info updated on the ULS within a few days!
> 
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
> James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)
> 
> __
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> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [MM] The W1 LED Experiment

[Bill Johnson]

Joel,

Do you have the part #'s as I note there are a couple different in each
color?  I note these are round versions and I wonder if these are difficult
to line up in the display due to any manufacturing differences.  Do you have
a Picture of your finished product?

73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joel Curneal
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 4:22 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [MM] The W1 LED Experiment

Has anyone else tried high intensity leds in their W1?  I replaced the leds
in my W1 with high intensity red,  yellow (amber), and green leds from
Sparkfun Electronics.  A pic can drive them to a much higher light output
without any other changes to the W1 circuit board.  The light output from
the different colors is almost the same on a stock W1 board.

Joel,  N1JEO

- Original Message - 


> I apologize for taking so long to conduct the LED experiment and get
> back with everyone interested. I had some lead times on parts I ordered
> not to mention getting some time to run everything through. I must
> mention first that I had to do numerous swaps of different LEDs and
> resistor packs and this simply would not have been possible to do in a
> timely manner without using my new Hakko 808 desoldering tool. I'm sure
> I would have damaged the W1 PCB trying to do it manually over and over
> again. That thing was worth every penny I paid for it.
>
> The slight differences in forward voltages of the various LEDs played no
> appreciable role in current consumption. So I'll just list the 3
> resistor pack values I used. I did look up the LM78L05 regulator spec
> sheet and found out it will produce up to 100ma output current. The
> current W1 design operates at far less than that. The LEDs are probably
> pulse width modulated (or simply polled) by the PIC also so the current
> draw per LED seems to be about half of what you would calculate with a
> voltage of around 3v and the resistor pack value.
>
> Here is some of the data:
>
> W1 idle current: 13.8 ma
>
> Current draw regardless of LED type per resistor pack value (18 out of
> 20 LEDs lit):
>
> 2.0k - 27.5ma
> 1.0k - 39.3ma
> 470  - 63.0ma
>
> I wanted to try an 810 or 680 ohm resistor pack, but could not get them
> in time from Digi-Key. As I personally wanted to stay within the 50ma
> range, the 1.0k value works for me. Like I said, to my eyes in a well
> lit environment, this value seemed to work fine with the Lumex LEDs
> although the Avago red LEDs were a hair brighter.
>
> Part numbers:
> My configuration:
>
> All Digi-Key part #'s
>
> Lumex Red 2x5mm LED- 67-1047-ND
> Lumex Yellow 2x5mm LED - 67-1050-ND
> Lumex Green 2x5mm LED  - 67-1046-ND
>
> 
>
> 73,
> Dave W8FGU
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[Mike-WE0H]

Good deal James!!! Always worth getting the Extra class for a bit more 
space on HF.

Mike
WE0H


James S wrote:
> Hello fellow Elecrafters,
>
>  
>
> Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you that I
> passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors.  Hope to have my license
> info updated on the ULS within a few days!
>
>  
>
> 73,
>
> James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)
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[Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

[James Sarte]

Hello fellow Elecrafters,

 

Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you that I
passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors.  Hope to have my license
info updated on the ULS within a few days!

 

73,

James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)

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[Elecraft] NB effective?

[Merv Schweigert]

Heres one I really dont want to bring up as I have seen so many
reports of how effective the NB is on the K3. 
In fact one of the key factors that tilted me over the edge to buy
the K3 was reports that it had the best NB people had used. 

This morning the long silent (at least on 40 meters) Chinese or
whom ever buzz saw was on again.  Not the one that was called
the dragon but one that sounds like power line noise buzz.  
The NB on the K3 was not only totally inefective, but actually
increased the noise by several S units.   There is no setting of
either blanker that even touches the noise, and if using the IF
blanker as you increase the setting the noise increased also to
the point of at a setting of 7 it was 2 s units stronger. 
I have also had almost zero effect on power line noise which is
very similar type buzz sound. 
I turned on the other brand X radio which has two blankers,
a standard NB and a wide NB,  on either setting the buzz was
completely eliminated at a low setting of the blanker control.

Perhaps there is a way for Aptos to hear that type of noise and
twiddle software to make it work on the K3.
Sure need some major help on this one,  makes the 40 meter
band unusable when its on and the blanker does not work.
Merv KH7C

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[Elecraft] [K2/OT] Free for pick-up. Four used sealed gel cell batteries 2 60A, 2 26A

[Daniel Paul Perez]

For free for anyone who wants to pick them up.  Recently sold my K2. 
Going smaller KX1, etc.

2 pairs sealed lead acid batteries.  ~3 years old.  60A good condition, 
  26A good/fair condition.

2 @ MK Battery 12 Volt 26 Amp Hour Sealed Gell-Cell $90 each new.
2 @ MK Battery 12 Volt 60 Amp Sealed Gel-Cell $200 each new.

And modular wheelchair battery charger input 90-240V, 50-60Hz, 1.2A, 
output 25V, 2.5A.  Needs be checked with DMM -- fairly certain still 
operational. ~$100 new.

Source: periodically replace batteries for my scooter and wheelchair as 
I don’t wait for them to quit under me.  E-mail me off reflector.

Best,

Dan, AD1P
Bedford, MA


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Jack, 

> The KRC2 has on-chip pullups that handle the task. They are enabled  
> whenever the KRC2 is in BCD input mode. Thus external pullups are 
> NOT needed for the KRC2.

Thank you for the clarification.  The pull-ups were not visible on 
the schematic. 

> The inputs are resistor-protected in case the driving device does  
> power the pullups. 

As is the case when connecting the KRC2 to either a computer LPT 
port or the Yaesu "band data" jack.  Yaesu in particular sources 
+13V on those lines (and the "inhibit" line from the Quadra). 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



> -Original Message-
> From: Jack Brindle [mailto:jackbrin...@earthlink.net] 
> Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 12:36 AM
> To: li...@subich.com
> Cc: d...@w3fpr.com; 'elecraft'
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question
> 
> 
> The KRC2 has on-chip pullups that handle the task. They are enabled  
> whenever the
> KRC2 is in BCD input mode. Thus external pullups are NOT needed for  
> the KRC2.
> 
> The inputs are resistor-protected in case the driving device does  
> power the pullups. We spec
> those inputs only for the TTL voltage range.
> 
> -Jack Brindle, W6FB 
> ==
> =
> 
> 
> On Mar 7, 2009, at 8:42 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
> 
> >
> >> Unfortunately, much of the ham gear available uses bare, 
> open inputs 
> >> and depends on the driving device to provide the voltage 
> and levels 
> >> it needs at its inputs.
> >
> > Let's see ... that would apply to the KRC2 in the "parallel input 
> > mode" along with the W9XT BCD-10 and the Yaesu Quadra for 
> starters. On 
> > the other hand the TopTen Systems BD-Y, the original microHAM Band 
> > Decoder, the Yaesu FL-7000, and Tokyo High Power HL-1.5Kfx, have 
> > internal pull-up resistors.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> >   ... Joe, W4TV
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> >> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
> >> Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 2:56 PM
> >> To: Roger
> >> Cc: elecraft
> >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question
> >>
> >>
> >> Roger,
> >>
> >> That is where the situation gets 'sticky'.  It all depends on what 
> >> the circuits at the end away from the K3 have implemented. 
>  You have 
> >> two pullup resistors on each line and 2 separate voltage sources.
> >>
> >> 1) If the voltage to the pullup resistors in the internal 
> device do 
> >> not match the voltage to the pullup resistors in the K3, 
> there will 
> >> be a continuous flow of current through both pullups on any one
> >> line when the
> >> drivers are at their open, non-conducting state).  If the
> >> voltages are
> >> close to the same value, this may not cause a problem, but if
> >> they are
> >> quite different (say one is 12 volts and the other is 5 
> volts), that
> >> could create a big problem.
> >> 2) The drivers in the K3 (when at the low level) must carry
> >> the current
> >> provided by both pullup resistors.  Whether that is a 
> problem or not
> >> depends on the value of the pullup resistors and the current
> >> capability
> >> of the drivers.
> >>
> >> In my view of a good design, open collector (or open 
> drain) drivers 
> >> are the only thing to use.  The terminating device can 
> determine what
> >> voltage is needed for reliable switching at its input and 
> that device
> >> controls the high level by providing its own pullup resistors.
> >> Secondly, the pullup values can be sized according to the 
> high level
> >> input current required by that device and can control its 
> immunity to
> >> noise by controlling its input conditions.  All is under the
> >> control of
> >> the external device designer.  Unfortunately, much of the ham gear
> >> available uses bare, open inputs and depends on the 
> driving device to
> >> provide the voltage and levels it needs at its inputs.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >> Don W3FPR
> >>
> >> 73,
> >> Don W3FPR
> >>
> >> Roger wrote:
> >>> Mike Fatchett,
> >>>  OK, but what happens when you use
> >> them with devices that already work without them,e.g. 
> Array Solutions 
> >> 6 Pack and early band decoders?
> >>>Roger K8RS
> >>>
> >>>
> >> __
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> >
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> 

Re: [Elecraft] OT - Idiom Press CMOS Super Keyer 4 (and LogiKit 4) - Command Card

[David Woolley (E.L)]

Tom Hammond wrote:

> 
> While I cannot print and laminate the cards for you, I can however supply
> FREE) the card info in PDF or in MS Word (.DOC) formats. The two files will
> be ZIPped into a self-extracting .EXE file which you can RUN to extract the
> contents.
> 
I'd strongly advise not running the EXE (you won't be able to run in on 
non-Intel or non-Windows machines, anyway).  Rather you should rename it 
to .zip.  Windows Explorer in XP and later will treat such files as folders.

Self extracting EXEs provide a small convenience for a small proportion 
of users who have old systems and don't have PKZip, WinZip or InfoZIP, 
at the expense of encouraging poor security practice.

-- 
David Woolley
"The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to 
Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio"
List Guidelines 
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[Elecraft] UK Elecraft net report for Sunday 8th March

[Dave G4AON]

We had good conditions and plenty to talk about.

Subjects included:

The new 2.99 firmware and how it was needed to fix the "spiking" problem
when running linear amplifiers that require less than 100 Watts drive
(Acom, Expert, etc.).

An apparent anomaly between the front and rear microphone sockets on the
K3, where there appears to be unity gain from the rear socket and a gain
of 10 from the front panel one. See the K3 circuit...

Stations this week were:

G0MJW, Mike
G4DQP, Vince
G4CGG, Richard
GM0ELP, Doug
G0VGS, Ian
M0CKE, Jim
G3UCA, Peter
G7SYT, Chris
G3RXQ, Stewart
GW3YDX, Ron

(The last two called in after most had finished...)

73 until next week
Dave, G4AON
K3/100, Acom 1000, dipole antenna.
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[Elecraft] [K3] K3 NR on SSB

[Julius Fazekas n2wn]

The NR can do wonders... there were several QSOs I made that most likely
would not have been possible without it.

On the other hand, with a nearby LOUD station or splatter, it is very harsh
to listen to. This may just be a fact of life, but am interested in any
suggestions to improve it.

Turning the gain and volume waaay down helped some.

Some of the overdriven signals and splatter were downright ugly this weekend
on 160. There were several stations where it was virtually impossible to
copy anything within 3 Khz of their center frequency. I would have though
they were running AM they were so wide. (no this isn't a negative comment on
AM)

Still I was hearing stuff others weren't and that was way cool!

73,
Julius

-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Proset Ic and MicroKeyer

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Bob, 

> Is this an issue with using the Ic model Proset?

Open the (original) microKEYER and reset the jumpers on 
side of the daughter card to bypass the preamplifier. 
See page 38 of the manual - Setting Audio Levels. 

With the iC mic (or any microphone that uses bias on 
the audio line) the preamplifier must be bypassed to 
allow the bias from the soundcard to reach the mic 
element.  Conversely, with a dynamic element (e.g. 
the HC4/HC5) the preamplifier must be enabled to 
keep the bias from damaging the coil of the element. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
   


> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Naumann
> Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 9:42 AM
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Heil Proset Ic and MicroKeyer
> 
> 
> I do not operate SSB very much, but I wanted to get my 
> Microham MicroKeyer working with N1MM for "voice keying". I 
> have the Heil Proset Ic from Elecraft and it works well 
> plugged into the 1/8" mic jack of the MicroKeyer and the 
> MicroKeyer mic output is plugged into the rear panel mic jack 
> of the K3. FB thus far.
> 
> Now, when trying to record in N1MM, I get nothing. The 
> interval of the recording is correct but apparently there is 
> no audio getting from the mic to the soundcard. I have tried 
> all of the audio switching options. The preamp jumpers are 
> both set to ON, but I tried setting them OFF and it made no 
> difference.
> 
> Is this an issue with using the Ic model Proset? In the past, 
> with other radios I have used a standard Proset with HC4 and 
> have not had any trouble. I do not have that headset any 
> longer though, so I can't try it out. 
> 
> The main reason for doing this is so my XYL does not hear me 
> saying my callsign over and over which drives her crazy. This 
> is another reason I prefer CW and RTTY! With voice keying, I 
> could continue to operate without her knowing it!
> 
> Has anyone else been through this with the Proset Ic reaching 
> a solution?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob W5OV
> 



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[Elecraft] [K3] K3 in ARRL DX N1MM experience

[Julius Fazekas n2wn]

I've had an interesting experience in the contest using N1MM. When changing
bands, I use N1MM because it's so darn easy. I would type in a Frequency say
3550 from some other band. N1MM would take me to 3552.13... That got me
scratching my head. I tried this a few times, with the same result on
various bands. In band, no problem, the radio went right where I told it to
go.

So the question was why? It appears, at some point, I changed bands with the
RIT offset by 2.13 khz. This was unintentional on my part (can see where it
would be helpful if I had been on the other end of the QSO). I was able to
get it back, but was wondering how to turn this feature off.

160 was no picnic this weekend, much QRN. Friday night was better than
Saturday, still had fun working ummm "QRP" with 100 watts ;o) Even TI5N was
running LP!

73,
Julius


-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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[Elecraft] New K3 Configuration Software and SSB DX Contest QRP

[JOHN LAWRENCE]

I've just started using the latest 2.0 version of N2BC's freeware K3_EZ and 
find it fills the my need for the Graphical User Interface oriented software to 
configure my radio.  There are software packages similar to this for most 
professional instruments and test sets found in the electronics industry and 
it's nice to have it for the K3.  Like all new Beta versions of software there 
are areas of enhancement that each of us would like to suggest but I'm going to 
use it for a while longer before offering my thoughts.  The Rev 2.0 is well 
within 80/20 rules for a Beta freeware offering.  Nice Job!

However I've another learning curve funny story.  Yes, I'm still on that steep 
learning curve having fun with the K3.  Now that the "quick split", "quick 
spot” operation is down after the K5D expedition was my training ground, I'm 
venturing into software configuration and control options for this radio.  Last 
week I set up K3_EZ to run on my two month old K3 s/n 2274.  Not yet completely 
understanding how it configures the K3 and without this intention I found out 
something exciting.  First of all, this proves I'd achieved proper setting of 
the TX audio giving it the clean punch needed to get through in a contest.  I'd 
unknowingly left the power level to 3 watts not thinking K3_EZ would leave it 
set at that level after I disconnected the serial connection and turned off my 
radio.

On Saturday morning I turned it on and started listening around on 15 and 10 
meters for openings in the contest.  There was some weak signal activity to the 
south.  Using the ATU tap to tune the antenna and meter displaying ALC and 
Comp, I couldn't easily observe the power output setting.   Yes, I was working 
weak marginal opening stations mostly 1 kw level contesters with only 3 watts!  
I went quickly through all of them on 15 meters then switched quickly to 10 
meters and did the same thing.  Finally my lights went on when I lhappened to 
look over at the external wattmeter that wasn't moving as it should.  That 
means I'd worked all the Central and South Americans on the first or second 
call this Saturday with only 3 watts to and a G5RV antenna.  Amazing!  Who 
needs an amp?  Mine is till in the boxes.  Sorry I tasked some of the 
contesters by making them flex their inner ears and slowing them down for a 
second or third try at getting my reportMe?  I'm left being thrilled with 
my new radio and confirming the  "location location location" factor by this 
memorable 3-watt experience from here on my farm in Maine.

73,
John, W1QS, ex N6JL
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[Elecraft] FS:

[Phil LaMarche]

I have a KRC-2 controller that I've never used for 125.00 shipped.
 
Phil
 

Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
  www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com   
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605
W9DVM 


 
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[Elecraft] Pelican Case For Sale

[Scott Walker]

I have for sale a Pelican 1060 case which can hold a KX1 and
accessories.  It is in very good shape with no scratches or dings.
Includes some foam insert material.  The existing foam insert has been
cut out for a KX1.  Yellow color.
Asking $15 plus shipping.
-Scott N3SW
-New Cumberland PA
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Cancelled this Week

[Phil and Christina]

Hi gang,

The weekly Elecraft SSB net would normally meet today (Sunday, 3/8/09) at
1800Z. However, the band is filled with the DX contest. Let's skip this week
and avoid the frustration of trying to copy each other through the QRM.  See
you next week at the usual time and place.  Thank you.

73,

Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] S/N 6698 is alive now!!!

[KC9QQ]

Congratulations Mike!

I completed my K2 about 5 weeks ago and have been having a great time
operating low power CW.  I purchased the SSB, DSP, NB ant Antenna tuner, but
I have been enjoying the base radio so much, I haven't gotten around to
finishing up the options.  They will make nice rainy day projects.  I hope
you have as much fun with the K2 as I am having.

Fred, KC9QQ




WE0H wrote:
> 
> Just got done testing the TX & RX on K2 S/N 6698 and all is working per 
> the manual. Now onto the options...
> 
> Mike
> WE0H
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Power output pot tight on CCW end

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

That often happens if the knob is placed too close to the panel - the 
knob rubs on the metal housing that holds the shaft.  Try loosening the 
knob and moving it out just a bit.

73,
Don W3FPR

Mike-WE0H wrote:
> My power output pot on my K2 is tight turning the last 1/4th until full 
> CCW. Is this the way it is supposed to be or? It was that way before I 
> installed it. It works but is tight turning at the low <1w range.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
> WE0H
> K2 S/N 6698
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Where is it in the MANUAL???

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave and All,

An index has already happened.
Take a look at the manual currently on the Elecraft website Rev D2, 
January 1, 2009.
That version of the manual *does* have an Index, and has been shipping 
with K3s since early January.

Download the .pdf version of the manual and you can use the search 
function of Adobe Reader to find things in the manual as well.

73,
Don W3FPR

dyarnes wrote:
> Jim, Steve, and All,
>
> ...  The manual really needs a good index. ... 
>
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[Elecraft] Heil Proset Ic and MicroKeyer

[Robert Naumann]

I do not operate SSB very much, but I wanted to get my Microham MicroKeyer
working with N1MM for "voice keying". I have the Heil Proset Ic from
Elecraft and it works well plugged into the 1/8" mic jack of the MicroKeyer
and the MicroKeyer mic output is plugged into the rear panel mic jack of the
K3. FB thus far.

Now, when trying to record in N1MM, I get nothing. The interval of the
recording is correct but apparently there is no audio getting from the mic
to the soundcard. I have tried all of the audio switching options. The
preamp jumpers are both set to ON, but I tried setting them OFF and it made
no difference.

Is this an issue with using the Ic model Proset? In the past, with other
radios I have used a standard Proset with HC4 and have not had any trouble.
I do not have that headset any longer though, so I can't try it out. 

The main reason for doing this is so my XYL does not hear me saying my
callsign over and over which drives her crazy. This is another reason I
prefer CW and RTTY! With voice keying, I could continue to operate without
her knowing it!

Has anyone else been through this with the Proset Ic reaching a solution?

Thanks,

Bob W5OV

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[Elecraft] [K2] Power output pot tight on CCW end

[Mike-WE0H]

My power output pot on my K2 is tight turning the last 1/4th until full 
CCW. Is this the way it is supposed to be or? It was that way before I 
installed it. It works but is tight turning at the low <1w range.

Thanks,
Mike
WE0H
K2 S/N 6698
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Re: [Elecraft] Where is it in the MANUAL???

[dyarnes]

Jim, Steve, and All,

Well, Steve is being a little hard on Jim, but the point is that most 
questions are answerable in the manual---somewhere!  The problem is that the 
"contents" page at the front isn't all that helpful with regard to many 
specific questions.  A lot of things you want to find out more about aren't 
going to be specifically identified there.  The manual really needs a good 
index.  Maybe one day that will happen.  In the meantime, one of the best 
ways to track down stuff is to use the "online" version of the manual, and 
do a search.  Choosing the right key word is always tricky, but that seems 
to be a good option.

Speaking of the manual!  I just received my 2nd RX.  Included in the packet 
is an installation guide, which had several sheets of errata.  In this case, 
2 full pages are completely replaced.  Since the manuals are all spiral 
bound, it isn't that easy to insert updates.  However, it can be done if you 
have a little patience, and carefully unbind the manual, then re-insert the 
binding after inserting the updates.  Problem is, the update pages are not 
pre-punched.  I sure wish Elecraft would do that (most of us don't have the 
little gadget that punches holes for spiral binding), especially when there 
are complete pages that need to be replaced.  Alternatively, I would just as 
soon Elecraft not bind their manuals at all!  It's not too difficult (or 
costly) for us to buy our own 3 hole punch (or whatever system you want to 
use), and then updating would be considerably easier.  Yes, I know we can 
make our own copies and do that, but printer ink cartridges are very 
expensive, and mass duplication is fairly inexpensive on a per copy basis.

Spiral binding is a very inexpensive process comparatively, but it wasn't 
meant for documents requiring frequent updates.  It was designed for 
reports, etc. that are in final form.  Just about every updatable manual 
system you find in business employs some sort of ring binding system to 
facilitate easy updating.  It also makes it much easier to insert your own 
notes, etc.  Also, once a manual has been punched for spiral binding, it 
can't be repunched for ring binding very effectively because the old 
punching process weakens the new holes.

Lastly, a ring binder system would enable you to put all your accessory 
manuals in a "tabbed" section  with the main manual, and in a single binder.

I know I'm spitting into the wind, but I hope Elecraft will re-evaluate 
their manual process in the future.  We are fortunate to have a radio that 
keeps evolving.  I think the manual system for it should be improved to 
better support it.

Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "S Sacco" 
To: "JIM DAVIS" 
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Where is it in the MANUAL???


> Whatever you do:
>
> 1) Do NOT look at the K3 Owner's Manual
> 2) ESPECIALLY, do NOT look at the "Contents"
> 3) Really, do NOT look under the "Configuration" section in "Contents"
> 4) If it's the last thing you do, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES look at 
> the
> "Miscellaneous Setup" line, which would indicate Page 47.
> 5) If, my some horrible mistake, you actually go to page 47, DO NOT READ 
> the
> section where it says:
>
> Time and Date
> CONFIG:TIME sets the 24-hour real-time-clock
> (RTC). Tap 1 / 2 / 3 to adjust HH/MM/SS using
> VFO A. This URL shows UTC as well as all U.S.
> time zones: tycho.usno.navy.mil/cgi-bin/timer.pl
> CONFIG:DATE MD selects US (MM.DD.YY). or
> EU (DD.MM.YY) date format using VFO A.
> CONFIG:DATE is used to set the date. Tap 1 / 2 /
> 3 to adjust MM/DD/YY or DD/MM/YY.
>
>
> In my older version of the manual, it was found on page 44.
>
> ;-)
>
> 73,
> Steve  NN4X <-- in UPPERCASE, 'cause I'm proud of my callsign.
> Saint Cloud, Florida
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 7, 2009 at 7:11 PM, JIM DAVIS  wrote:
>
>> I'd like to SET the internal clock of the K3 to be somewhere near 
>> accurate,
>> but where is that
>> EXPLAINED IN THE K3 manual?
>>
>> Jim/nn6ee
>>
>> PS,
>> Even Elecraft needs to EXPLAIN more in the manuals because not ALL OF US
>> ARE "IT" GENIUSES!!!
>>
>> Jim/nn6ee
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Re: [Elecraft] accurate time

[SM6TUW]

> While on the subject of time, where is the oscillator that is used by
> the built-in clock on the K3?

Front panel board.

> Is it adjustable?

No. Sorry...

73,
Lyle KK7P

I consulted the data sheet for the clock circuit PCF8563T (U16 in the K3
circuit diagram ) You can adjust the average deviation over one year less
than +- 5 minutes. Adjustment of one capacitior (C60) is required though.
http://www.nxp.com/acrobat_download/datasheets/PCF8563_6.pdf

I feel that i have less accuracy  on my K3 than my quarz clocks in the
schack so i will try this approach.
Lyle - when will we get a service manual (with PCB layout ) for
this wonderful station?

73
Jan SM6TUW
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[Elecraft] OT - Idiom Press CMOS Super Keyer 4 (and LogiKit 4) - Command Card

[Tom Hammond]

Good Morning Folks:

Since we have had a somewhat spirited discussion of the virtues of various
external Keyers for use with the Elecraft rigs, I thought I might offer a
succinct command card which I developed for laminating, cutting out, and
then sticking directly to the top of the case for the Idiom Press CMOS Super
Keyer 4 and LogiKit 4 keyers.

The command card measures 2.5" X 4.3" and I attach a trimmed copy directly
to the TOP of the keyer case using double-stick tape. It fits nicely within
the margins of the top cover.

While I cannot print and laminate the cards for you, I can however supply
FREE) the card info in PDF or in MS Word (.DOC) formats. The two files will
be ZIPped into a self-extracting .EXE file which you can RUN to extract the
contents.

The card makes a really nice reference point which you can access without
having to turn the keyer upside down to read the (somewhat limited) info
printed on the bottom of the case.

If you are interested, just drop me a note and I'll send both file formats
to you.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] K3 - Transverter/HF

[Stewart Baker]

I don't know if I am trying to do the impossible, wanting to 
listen on 2m and 80m simultaneously.

I have a homebrew 2m transverter connected via the KXV3 with a 
28MHz I/F setting.

If I set up 2m on Main RX , then I cannot get anything out of the 
Sub RX when set to 80m.

If I set up 80m on Main RX , then I cannot get anything out of the 
Sub RX when set to 2m. Further, when I tune the Sub RX the display 
changes from a 2m to the I/F frequency.

What's going on ?

73
Stewart G3RXQ




 
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Re: [Elecraft] accurate time

[hb9brj]

Lyle Johnson wrote:
> 
>> While on the subject of time, where is the oscillator that is used by  
>> the built-in clock on the K3?
> 
> Front panel board.
>> Is it adjustable?
> No. Sorry...
> 

U16 is the RTC (real-time clock) chip: 
http://www.nxp.com/acrobat_download/datasheets/PCF8563_6.pdf PCF8563 
In theory, frequency pulling is possible via C60 while monitoring CLKOUT
(32768Hz) on pin7. The datasheet recommends a 5...25pF trimmer capacitor.
In reality this might be difficult since U16 must be powered up during the
alignment...

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