Re: [Elecraft] K3 Noise Reduction..revisited
Hmm, are Lyle's other irons in the fire being heated for Eric's other fish to fry? :-) More seriously, I also would love to see changes to the noise reduction, particularly to help with weak signal work. I'm not sure why anyone cares about noise reduction for strong signals -- I just turn down the AF gain and the noise goes away :-) Steve N9SZ Don W3FPR wrote: Perhaps Lyle is looking at other alternatives for NR in the K3, but I do know that he is quite busy with other 'irons in the fire' right now, so patience is a virtue for now and we could possibly discover improvements down the road. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Filter feature request
The filter reset function (knob press) that selects NORM, NORM 1, and NORM 2 is helpful in getting the filter width back to a preset value which can be different for each mode. It would be helpful, however, if the lower display briefly showed the filter width after the knob is pressed. Right now it displays -NOR-, NORM 1, or NORM 2 while the knob is being pressed and then immediately jumps back to the VFO B frequency. I have to rotate the filter width knob (or double press it) if I want to know the current width. 73, Mike K2MK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] For the small UI wishlist
- revert to .000 by pushing CLR+FINE, this simplifies coarse tuning on round kHz. - for European XV transverter users: Coarse steps 6,25 and 12,50 kHz(common raster here for FM144/430) - speed up tuning with factor x10 when spinning the VFO fast. 73' Paul PD0PSB -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/For-the-%22small%22-UI-wishlist-tp2753711p2753711.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Noise Reduction..revisited
Regarding noise reduction and the BHI products; I've noticed that the BHI ANEM works substantially better than the K3's NR. For whatever reason, whenever I switch NR on, the band noise seems to get attenuated slightly, but then reshaped to resemble noise in a tunnel. It's very tiring to listen too. Any suggestions? 73 de James K3JPS Trevor Smithers wrote: As far as I'm aware there are two companies that produce this technology for the amateur market, BHI in the UK and Michels-Engineering in Germany. The german unit is designed specifically for the extraction of the speech waveform when surrounded by noise. BHI is similar but works with cw as well. Here are a couple of links to audio samples of both units in operation http://www.ing-michels.de/audio_demonstrations.html http://www.radio.bhinstrumentation.co.uk/html/demonstration.html There is a downside to using these units in that they only work with a mono input so you loose the binaural function. To get around this I purchased two of the internal modules (DX21) from Michels-Engineering and wired them to each stereo channel. This allows independent control of the noise reduction in each ear and retains the AFX/binaural function. 73 Trevor G0KTN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
Wayne said Our little 2D fasteners are an integral part of these designs, holding together PCBs and panels at edges and corners. Wayne, I have thought about your unique construction technique and am impressed with the results. When the K3 box arrived a year ago I thought: Where's the case? Something must be missing. All of us home builders fret over cases. I know you guys are not in the parts business but it would be nice if you could offer 2-D fasteners and blank panels. Mike Scott - AE6WA Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA) NAQCC 3535 K3-100 #508 / KX1 #1311 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Noise Reduction..revisited
Lyle is looking at the NR code. Let's rest this thread for now. We'll pop up here when we have something new to try. :-) 73, Eric WA6HHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 switching to split freq question
Rob, I'm not saying that some logging programs and K3 control programs are not in need of some changes but your problem could have at least been avoided/circumvented by something that I reported to K3 support some time back. CONFIG parameter CW WGHT was enhanced to provide a SSB+CW function which allows CW keying in SSB mode. Works great when not in SPLIT but does not work while in SPLIT. The response from support was that this was on the 'fix' list but again that was quite a while ago. If this would have resolved your problem perhaps another note to support would help. Jerry N8BM K9RBorowski wrote: I noticed this evening that after working a station on 18 meter SSB, I saw a spot on the DX packet reflector for XW1B on 20 meter CW. Curious if I could hear him, I double clicked on the spot and DX4WIN sent the rig to his frequency, which was stated to be 14,005.00 QSX 14,006.20 perfectly, or so I thoughtWhen XW1B finished the present QSO, he said QRZ NA UP. He was S9 at my QTH and I thought I would see if I could work him. Imagine my surprise when my keying was doing nothing! Upon a bit of further observation, I found that the QSY frequency on VFO B was in the SSB mode. To correct this I pressed the A=B button and then the A/B button and dialed the QSX frequency back to VFO B, where the mode was now stated to be CW. I used A/B once more to return to listening to the A VFO just as I heard NA UP sent my callsign once and worked him on the first call. Is it something that I am doing wrong or is this a bug in the PC control of the K3 ? I am using a conventional serial po rt and DX4WIN software. I've only had the rig a couple of weeks and this is the first problem I have encountered. Anyone else experience this or have a solution? Thanks for your time and vy 73, Rog-K9RB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-switching-to-split-freq-question-tp2750917p2754428.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
Hi Mike, Wayne said Our little 2D fasteners are an integral part of these designs, holding together PCBs and panels at edges and corners. Wayne, I have thought about your unique construction technique and am impressed with the results. When the K3 box arrived a year ago I thought: Where's the case? Something must be missing. All of us home builders fret over cases. I know you guys are not in the parts business but it would be nice if you could offer 2-D fasteners and blank panels. I believe we have sold 2D fasteners to experimenters in the past; check with sa...@elecraft.com. We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15 (1.5) and ETS2 (2.5). You'll find these on our order page. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3: rear panel fitment/alignment
Hello all, My K3 has been built for some time, and working quite well. However, I've been a bit curious about the rear panel alignment especially as it relates to the ground post and power pole connection. Those two never seemed to line up right with the cutouts in the rear panel, while all other things did. The powerpole connector in the back was quite off-centered. As it is, the rear panel cutout for the power connecter sits in the recess of the connector, and if you look at the back, the powerpole connector is shifted over to the left leaving a small gap. It doesn't seem stressed, but I was wondering if that's typical? I've done just about everything to make sure everything was lined up, including readjusting the 2D fasteners, but that didn't help. 73, James K3JPS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
I believe we have sold 2D fasteners to experimenters in the past; check with sa...@elecraft.com. We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15 (1.5) and ETS2 (2.5). You'll find these on our order page. 73, Wayne N6KR Would love to see a K3 size cabinet (parts) with a blank front and rear panel, would like to enclose a switching power supply, speaker etc in a matching cabinet. Merv KH7C __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
I agree. The EC2 is too small for my anticipated balanced tuner project. John W2XS Merv wrote: Would love to see a K3 size cabinet (parts) with a blank front and rear panel. -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Noise-Reduction-tp2727716p2754922.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] Small additions UI (for the wishlist)
- revert to .000 by pushing CLR+FINE, this simplifies coarse tuning on round kHz. - for European XV transverter users: FM coarse steps 6,25 and 12,50 kHz (common rasters here for FM144/430) - speed up tuning with factor x10(?) when spinning the VFO fast. 73' Paul PD0PSB -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Small-additions-UI-%28for-the-wishlist%29-tp2755135p2755135.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
The 2D (where did that name come from?) fasteners are handy, but they don't maintain much in the way of shielding integrity. If you want decent shielding then you need continuous contact between panels and a lot of screws. You could always make your own, for example, here's a photo of an amplifier I built about 30 years ago that shows what I'm talking about (although for *really* tight shielding twice as many screws would be called for): http://k6mhe.com/n7ws/N7WS_8877_1.jpg Wes Stewart, N7WS ps. If you would like to own this, contact me off list. --- On Fri, 5/1/09, Mike Scott m...@paxsen.com wrote: From: Mike Scott m...@paxsen.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 11:34 AM Wayne said Our little 2D fasteners are an integral part of these designs, holding together PCBs and panels at edges and corners. Wayne, I have thought about your unique construction technique and am impressed with the results. When the K3 box arrived a year ago I thought: Where's the case? Something must be missing. All of us home builders fret over cases. I know you guys are not in the parts business but it would be nice if you could offer 2-D fasteners and blank panels. Mike Scott - AE6WA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Is my AFSK A problem a Ghost?
Doug I use DM-780 and discovered the same thing you are experiencing once in a while. I finally figured out what I was doing wrong. I narrowed down my K3 filter to 250 hz and saw on the display that I was centered on 1500 hz in Data A mode but when I switched to AFSK for RTTY it was centered on 1000 hz. If If I click on a waterfall very far from the 1000 hz I will not hear or tx the tones. Try finding your center BW tone/freq on the waterfall and tune the station to that and see if your monitor and tx output works. Ron NA9F no RF and do not hear anything on Monitor playback. Everything works OK in Data A both RTTY and PSK. 73s, Doug - W5ION _ Doug Freeman d...@dougfree.com www.dougfree.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Is-my-AFSK-A-problem-a-Ghost--tp2748776p2755343.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] W1 Power Meter and W8FGU Case
Hello Elecrafters, I just completed assembly of a W1 Power Meter kit. It seems to work well with good accuracy. For some reason I had a bit of trouble making good solder connections. This is the first RoHS board that has given me trouble. It seemed like it took extra amounts of time and heat to make good solder joints. Is there some special solder flux that should be used when using normal lead solder on an RoHS board? The W8FGU case is very nice. Fit and finish were perfect and the installation instructions on his web site are very clear. I have some experience working with plastics and probably could have made my own case. However, considering time and the cost of materials a DIY case would probably cost more and might not turn out as nice. Many thanks to Dave for providing this service. 73, Bill - K6WLM K2 KX1 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Absolutely fantastic customer service!!
With the help of Gary, AB7MY, of Elecraft, and Don, W3FPR, of this list, I've just resolved the most crazy problem of my nearly 50 year ham career. About a month ago, I decided to upgrade my K2/10 (#337) to a K2/100. After inquiring here about how the KPA100+KAT100 in an EC2 enclosure might work (the answer was very well), a list participant offered his already built KPA100+KAT100+EC2 to me and I accepted. Then I needed to complete the a-to-b upgrade of my K2 that I had only done part of before. After that I discovered that when using the KPA100, I had all sorts of weird RF-related symptoms that I'd never experienced before. I then did all the KPA100 upgrades that Elecraft recommends, with no change in the problems. Then I began e-mailing with Gary and Don and they gave me lots of advice, most of which I followed, with no change to the problem. I'll spare you the details, but will mention that one thing I played with a good bit was the length of my 450 ohm feedine to my inverted vee dipole. None of that helped. A couple of days ago, I e-mailed Gary that I was ready to give up. He encouraged me to hang in there, and then yesterday suggested that I just try adding some coax between the KAT100 and the BL2 balun that I use. I grabbed a random piece of RG-58 with connectors on it - about 6' worth - and plugged it in. Voila! Problem solved! After all the stuff I tried, I'm floored that the problem was resolved by such a simple change!! I guess its a kind of mojo!! Anyway, thanks to Gary and Don for not letting me give up, and for having the patience and persistence to keep suggesting stuff to try! This is one of the reasons I stick with Elecraft!!! We're extremely lucky to have these guys out there! 73, Randy, KS4L __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Noise Reduction..revisited
Don Wilhelm wrote: Those Noise Reduction algorithms you refer to seem to be quite clever and effective. They appear to be close to the NR that I have in my hearing aids which does a great job of extracting speech from noise. Unfortunately, the NR in my hearing aids also thinks sustained musical notes are noise, and by the same token, CW can also be considered noise. My experience also. The VA gave me some new digital [DSP] hearing aids a few years ago. They will notch a fire truck siren down to a tolerable level, and do a fine job of extracting voice and music from noise [except for sustained notes]. I hadn't heard birds in nearly 40 years until I got these. However, they apparently think CW is a fire truck. I am finding that my K3 NR performance is very sensitive to other RX settings as well as the DSP BW. The recently posted suggestions for AGC settings have helped a lot. I'm pretty much CW-only because of my hearing, I have the stock roofing filters, and I usually run the DSP around 250 Hz. Engaging NR at one of the lesser aggressive settings raises the volume of the signal, I turn down the AF Gain, and the noise subsides nicely with the signal now standing out in my headphones better. There seems to be a threshold level below which a very weak signal can't be found by the NR algorithm but I haven't had time to experiment with the NR settings yet. Possibly a more agressive setting will lower that threshold. Really agressive settings seem to create more garbage than they reduce noise. Haven't gotten to SSB yet. My K3 is definitely NOT your father's radio :-) 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - Auburn CA [Placer County, CM98LW] __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter and W8FGU Case
I recently also completed the W1 with the W8FGU case and was at least as pleased as Bill. I didn't notice any problems with the soldering, however. I'm still using my non-RoHS Kester solder and simple Weller single temp soldering iron that I bought 10 years ago to build my K2 #337! Anyway, the W1 and the W8FGU case are a great combo! 73, Randy, KS4L Bill Miner wrote: Hello Elecrafters, I just completed assembly of a W1 Power Meter kit. It seems to work well with good accuracy. ... The W8FGU case is very nice. Fit and finish were perfect and the installation instructions on his web site are very clear. ... 73, Bill - K6WLM K2 KX1 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Is my AFSK A problem a Ghost?
Doug, DM-780 appears to start with its tuning guides at 1415/1585, which does not match any of the K3's RTTY pitch settings exactly, but is quite close to the K3's 1445 Hz setting. With the K3 in AFSK A sub-mode, hold the K3's PITCH button (just above the VFO B knob) to see the pitch displayed in the main display. Using the VFO A knob, you can adjust the K3's Pitch setting to 2125, 1445, 1275 or 915 Hz. I would suggest that for DM-780, you start by setting the K3's pitch in AFSK A to 1445. This will work fine at wider filter settings. If you are using a very narrow filter setting on the K3, you may have to move DM-780's tuning guides slightly to center them on 1530 Hz instead of 1500 Hz. I would also suggest disabling AFC in DM-780, as that can cause the tuning guides to move away from the center of the filter bandpass. If you use the K3's tuning knob to do all of your tuning, you will always be centered in the bandpass. If the radio's tuning seems too touchy for this, try pressing the K3's FINE button to see if that helps. I don't usually use DM-780 (DM-780 and HRD each seem to work on their own, but the combination locks up on my computer), so I am not very familiar with it. However, it looks to me as if DM-780 expects the radio to be on upper sideband, whereas the K3's AFSK A uses lower sideband. You may have to press the Reverse button in DM-780 to get it to decode RTTY correctly in AFSK A sub-mode. DATA A works fine for you because it is centered on 1500 Hz (the same as DM-780), and it uses upper sideband (ditto). On the other hand, in DATA A mode you do not have access to the K3's RTTY-specific features (the Dual PB filter, spot tones and CWT tuning aids, and text decode). Note also that with DM-780 you must use AFSK A and not FSK D sub-mode for RTTY. AFAIK, DM-780 does not support FSK keying, only AFSK. 73, Rich VE3KI no RF and do not hear anything on Monitor playback. Everything works OK in Data A both RTTY and PSK. 73s, Doug - W5ION __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Noise Reduction..revisited
k6...@foothill.net wrote: They will notch a fire truck siren down to a tolerable level I don't know if I like that or not ;-) However, they apparently think CW is a fire truck. I can safely say that for the many years I have on the job, CW is definitely not a fire truck :-) Drivers would probably get out of the way for CW ;-) 73, Dave W8FGU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Is my AFSK A problem a Ghost?
In my previous message I forgot to mention one other difference between AFSK A and DATA A sub-modes. In AFSK A, the K3's dial displays the actual mark frequency, whereas in DATA A the dial displays the suppressed carrier frequency. Thus, to tune in the W1AW RTTY bulletins on 14095 kHz, in AFSK A you would simply set the K3's tuning dial to 14095. In DATA A, if you wanted to center the signal on exactly 1500 Hz, you would set the radio's dial to 14093.415 kHz (1585 Hz below the desired mark frequency). I don't know for sure what frequency DM-780/HRD would log in each of these two cases, nor how to correct any offset if there is one. 73, Rich VE3KI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter and W8FGU Case
Bill, I have not had any problems myself, but some boards suck away the heat from the soldering iron tip more so than others - and that is true whether the boards are RoHS or not. I routinely use about 750 deg F for soldering and bump it up to 800 deg if the board traces are large or there is a large ground plane. Leaded solder usually works fine with the RoHS boards too. Just be certain to heat the pads adequately - watch for the point when the solder flows out onto the pad. If the solder pads are not adequately heated there will be a poor solder connection just waiting until some crucial moment to fail. Murphy strikes at the worst possible moments. Many, boards that I repair are solved by reflowing the solder with a hot soldering iron. There seems to be a tendency among some builders to not heat the solder pads. Whether that stems from old experiences of lifting solder pads on poor boards or fear of damaging components, I just don't know, but when using a temperature controlled soldering iron and applying heat until the solder flows, those fears should be put to rest. Elecraft uses thru-plated holes on the boards and components will stand soldering temperatures for short times (usually 6 to 10 seconds), so there should not be a fear of damaging components with soldering heat applied for 2 to 3 seconds. On a normal size solder pad, if the solder does not flow in 3 seconds, the iron is not hot enough and if it flows in less than 2 seconds the iron is too hot. My other 'rule' is to use a solder thin enough so you can control the amount of solder applied easily (.015 to .020 inch diameter) and a mildly activated flux so the flux does not create a mess (Kester 285 is my opinion of good solder and flux). 73, Don W3FPR Bill Miner wrote: Hello Elecrafters, I just completed assembly of a W1 Power Meter kit. It seems to work well with good accuracy. For some reason I had a bit of trouble making good solder connections. This is the first RoHS board that has given me trouble. It seemed like it took extra amounts of time and heat to make good solder joints. Is there some special solder flux that should be used when using normal lead solder on an RoHS board? The W8FGU case is very nice. Fit and finish were perfect and the installation instructions on his web site are very clear. I have some experience working with plastics and probably could have made my own case. However, considering time and the cost of materials a DIY case would probably cost more and might not turn out as nice. Many thanks to Dave for providing this service. 73, Bill - K6WLM K2 KX1 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
From: wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 11:20:30 -0700 Hi Mike, Wayne said Our little 2D fasteners are an integral part of these designs, holding together PCBs and panels at edges and corners. I believe we have sold 2D fasteners to experimenters in the past; check with sa...@elecraft.com. We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15 (1.5) and ETS2 (2.5). You'll find these on our order page. I bought a few, and then built a box that's the same width and depth as the K2, but high enough for the Clifton Labs Z90 panadapter. It's got one piece with two bends in parallel (the front panel), two pieces with only one bend (bottom and top) and two pieces that are just flat. I had to set the shear fence ONCE to get the widths cut. There's no nothcing necessary either in the sheet metal nor in the brake. I think the design shows genius. 73, doug __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 FS
Hi It looks like I will need to sell my K3 SN/575 The radio is equipped as follows: K3/100100 watt radio KBPF3band GC pass filter KFL3A-400400 HZ 8 pole filter KFL3A-2.8KHz2.8 khz 8 pole filter KFL3A-FM13 KHz FM filter Prosetboom mike headset New in box Elecraft MD-2 desk mike USB adapter Assembled ready to go but will need firmware upgrade and any optional mods listed on the Elecraft website. $2500 Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB K3 S/N 0575 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
On Fri, 1 May 2009 11:20:30 -0700, wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote: [snip] We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15 (1.5) and ETS2 (2.5). You'll find these on our order page. 73, Wayne N6KR [snip] I'd like to see some small enclosures for things like the home brew in shack end of things like coaxial switching units, Mic switching assemblies, etc. (4x3x2, 4x6x3, etc.) Now that I have two k3 XCVR's I'd like to construct some Mic switching assemblies, etc. For my VHF UHF activities I'd like to have a small enclosure for switching coaxial relays up on the tower. Tom, N5GE K3 #806, K3 #1055 XV144, XV432 W1 and other small kits. http://www.n5ge.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
Tom, If you want smaller than the K3, the EC1 and EC2 enclosures sound like what you may be looking for. Of course, they are K2 gray color, but a bit of spray paint can change them to K3 black (but with a wrinkle texture). Of course, there is alway the TenTec enclosures if the EC1 and EC2 do not fit the bill - and several other enclosures are available from the catalog pages of Mouser and DigiKey. 73, Don W3FPR Radio Amateur N5GE wrote: On Fri, 1 May 2009 11:20:30 -0700, wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote: [snip] We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15 (1.5) and ETS2 (2.5). You'll find these on our order page. 73, Wayne N6KR [snip] I'd like to see some small enclosures for things like the home brew in shack end of things like coaxial switching units, Mic switching assemblies, etc. (4x3x2, 4x6x3, etc.) Now that I have two k3 XCVR's I'd like to construct some Mic switching assemblies, etc. For my VHF UHF activities I'd like to have a small enclosure for switching coaxial relays up on the tower. Tom, N5GE K3 #806, K3 #1055 XV144, XV432 W1 and other small kits. http://www.n5ge.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
On Fri, 01 May 2009 23:29:53 -0400, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, If you want smaller than the K3, the EC1 and EC2 enclosures sound like what you may be looking for. Of course, they are K2 gray color, but a bit of spray paint can change them to K3 black (but with a wrinkle texture). Of course, there is alway the TenTec enclosures if the EC1 and EC2 do not fit the bill - and several other enclosures are available from the catalog pages of Mouser and DigiKey. 73, Don W3FPR [snip] Thanks, Don. I'll take a look at them. Now to bed. Going to Oklahoma in the morning to look at some possible rover sites for VHF/UHF. 73, Tom, N5GE K3 #806, K3 #1055 XV144, XV432 W1 and other small kits. http://www.n5ge.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] How do I make my K3 go to HP (100 W)
Many thanks to W6NIA,NT6A,N5GE, AB7R for advice and suggestions, but still no success. Finally went to Elecraft Utility, did a update and turned the radio off. Sometime later I turned the radio on and it was on HP! All operation seemed normal; it could be switched from HP to LP and then back to HP with the PWR knob, just as it should and as it didn't when the problem ocurred. Sort of an unsatisfactory fix, don't know the cause or the cure. 73, Jim w3cp __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX1 guide for non-builders
I just finished building a KX1 for a friend and it occurred to me that you pick up a lot of information about the radio during the build process that could come in handy as an owner/operator of the radio. Unfortunately this information is lost if someone else builds your KX1 or if you buy one on eBay. I wrote up a little 3-page guide for my friend and thought some of you might find it useful. I've posted it as a PDF on my site: http://www.craigr.com/Elecraft%20KX1%20Maintenance%20Guide.pdf If you have trouble with the link just let me know and I'll send it to you. The goal of the guide is not to repeat information from the manuals but to help you find it. In some cases (such as a complete disassembly procedure) there's nothing in the manual. In other cases (such as receiver alignment) the procedure is split between two or more manuals. Hope it's useful. Craig NZ0R K3/100 #25 K2/100 #4941 K1 #1966 KX1 #1499 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] How do I make my K3 go to HP (100 W)
And strangely, this problem will never trouble you again I hope so, anyway. 73, matt W6NIA On Sat, 02 May 2009 05:23:43 +, you wrote: Many thanks to W6NIA,NT6A,N5GE, AB7R for advice and suggestions, but still no success. Finally went to Elecraft Utility, did a update and turned the radio off. Sometime later I turned the radio on and it was on HP! All operation seemed normal; it could be switched from HP to LP and then back to HP with the PWR knob, just as it should and as it didn't when the problem ocurred. Sort of an unsatisfactory fix, don't know the cause or the cure. 73, Jim w3cp __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
