Re: [Elecraft] K3: REF IN

2009-12-04 Thread Jan Holmer SM6TUW

Since some time I am working on a solution just for fun (
http://n2.nabble.com/KREF-EXT-Option-tc2461086.html#a2461086 ). 
My GPS-derived clock was built from VE2ZAZ design and it works fine ( it is
also used for other purpose in lab).  PLL is a ADF4001 programmed from a AVR
ATtiny2313. 
So far the system is running stand alone with a VCXO external to the K3
since my KTCXO3 does not have a voltage control connection. It is certainly
possible to modify the KTCXO3 to a VCTCXO but I didn´t dare to do that yet.
Maybe Elecrafts supplier can provide such a beast?

If you are planning to use the K144XV as IF for higher order transverters it
would be important to get this reference accuracy.

73  Jan


Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
 
 David Pratt wrote:
Page 17 of the K3 Owner's Manual (Rev D2) shows an SMA connector for 
Input for external standard frequency reference for which a KREF3-EXT 
option purports to be available eventually.  I understand from what has 
been said earlier is that this will be for a 10MHz standard so you will 
need to use the 60kHz MSF signal to lock a 10MHz TCXO or use a GPS, 
Rubidium or Caesium standard.

 
 The schematic of the KSYN3 board shows a header (J4) with connections to 
 the 10MHz input, the 49.380MHz output from the existing oscillator 
 module and a V_ctrl line going back to the oscillator module. This 
 suggests that the KREF3-EXT module will have a phase-locked loop to lock 
 the oscillator to 10MHz.
 
 (Also on J4 is a mysterious 100Hz bus which wanders around many other 
 areas of the K3... anyone know what that is?)
 
 However, phase locking to an external reference still doesn't mean that 
 the K3 will be precisely on frequency.  Due to the internal arithmetic 
 of the K3's synthesis and mixing scheme, the frequency you see on the 
 display is not quite the frequency you actually get. As Wayne pointed 
 out on 17 November, this translates to a VCO step size of about 0.5 Hz 
 on 160 m, 1 Hz on 20 m, and 2 Hz on 6 m. Other bands are between these 
 values.
 
 What the KREF3-EXT module should be able to deliver is complete freedom 
 from frequency drift, for almost all practical purposes. There could 
 also be great communication value in being able to lock a pair of K3s to 
 the same global GPS standard, even when they are half a world apart
 
 In the meantime, the K3 already has the most important kind of frequency 
 and phase locking - between its own two receivers for true diversity 
 reception.
 
 
 -- 
 
 73 from Ian GM3SEK
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Broken AF knob and bad service to get a replacement.

2009-12-04 Thread AD6XY


All this is very interesting. It certainly demonstrates the need for the
continual product testing Elecraft undertake. Sending spares to remote
regions with poor postal services, e.g. the UK is an expensive and slow
business.

The problem with the wrench - or hex key is a real one. It also applies to
all the nuts and bolts used in the K3. For unknown reasons of patriotism the
USA is non-metric so these are all in imperial sizes. Getting these outside
of the USA is getting harder and harder. 

Failing Eric or Wayne running for president and changing this, and with
Elecraft now becoming a major international force, would it not be better to
use metric for new Elecraft designs?

Mike, UK.
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Re: [Elecraft] Top Ten Devices band decoder interfacing

2009-12-04 Thread Paul Ormandy ZL4PW
Hi all,

Problem solved!

Thanks to Dave N3RD.

Cheers,

Paul


-- 
Paul Ormandy ZL4PW ZM4M
www.radiodx.com
www.zl4pw.orcon.net.nz

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: REF IN

2009-12-04 Thread AD6XY



Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
 
 What the KREF3-EXT module should be able to deliver is complete freedom 
 from frequency drift, for almost all practical purposes. There could 
 also be great communication value in being able to lock a pair of K3s to 
 the same global GPS standard, even when they are half a world apart
 

And as long as the world is not moving relative to itself the TX and RX
could be dead on frequency for low bandwidth modes. Usually things are
moving. We could measure the Doppler on the HF signals due to the movement
of the ionosphere and do many other things...

The KX144 can not be locked to the reference, it uses a different LO. If it
were based on the reference oscillator we would not be hearing of crystal
supply problems.

It ought to be possible to lock the supplied TCXO - or a replacement to GPS
using the 1PPS or 10kHz signals from a GPS receiver. That might be more
useful to most amateurs than a 10MHz reference input.

As an interim solution - I wonder if Wayne could produce a routine to
automatically correct the K3 based on a user settable reference frequency?
It could be WWV or a GPS locked beacon, a shack based 10MHz source. If that
is done after the K3 has warmed up it should stay within a Hz or so for
hours.

Currently I do this manually for the transverter bands - where it matters
for me. I tune to my 70MHz beacon in CW mode and trim the XV offset to zero
beat with the CW tone. It requires iteration to do this. Measuring an offset
in frequency is the sort of thing the DSP could do much better and quicker
than I can.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: REF IN

2009-12-04 Thread Julian, G4ILO



AD6XY wrote:
 
 
 Measuring an offset in frequency is the sort of thing the DSP could do
 much better and quicker than I can.
 
 
That's a pretty neat idea. That's what the WSPR 2 calibration routine does -
measure an audio frequency to 2 decimal places. The K3 DSP clock is probably
more accurate than a computer sound card.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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[Elecraft] First-timer's K3 experiences in WW CW

2009-12-04 Thread Zoli Pitman HA1AG
Hello, 

I just received my K3 2 weeks before the WW CW so it was a rough transition 
taking this rig in use. Steve K6AW helped me a lot, spending lots of time with 
me on Skype explaining and giving tips about how to use the K3 in contesting 
optimally. (TNX!!) I took the K3 to Portugal where I had a mini M/S with Con 
DF4SA and Marq CT1BWW. 

I was impressed by the RX, it worked ufb, I only had a few issues, which are 
either config
issues (most likely my pilot errors) and some are supposedly design issues, 
like: 

- I
failed to find a way to get VFO-B freq permanently on display. My K3
keeps showing PA temp, time, PS current and voltage etc and it toggles
between these when I toss the dial of the sub-VFO. Having to push that
SUBVFO-SET button sucks. I would like to have the VFO-B dial to be used
only for VFO-B whenever the SUB-VFO is activated. I checked the manual back
and forth on the plane back and could not find such an option. What I
found is that I either tune VFO-A or press BSET (have to hold and not
even tap only!) and then and only then can change VFO-B freq. I badly missed the
capability of the MP to tune A and B independently and engage and
disengage dual-rx quickly.

-
I also failed to find a way to put the CLAR offset permanently on
display. It keeps switching back to that PA temp etc. Sometimes I
wandered too much off my run freq  without noticing it. Having the CLAR offset 
permanently displayed whenever activated would be a useful reminder. It seems
CLAR offset is only displayed when I change it.

- The hint to turn AGC off whenever possible and control with RF-gain was
really a good one. it really helped me to pick up the weaker USA calls
among the pile of EUs. It was a very enjoyable challange. However I
missed a sort of AGC in the audio stage, because when I got called by
some really strong stations my eardrums were in pain... 

- I purchased
250/500 Hz CW filters. There is a dramatic change between those. In addition it 
seemed AGC was pumped badly when I went for a narrower DSP BW than the roofing 
filter. I
think for contesting I should put 250/400 and for casual DXing the
loose 500Hz filters are perfect. 250/400/500 would give me a very
gradual change. Lowbands in WW are the ultimate test for IF design I guess. 

- Having optical encoders for speed and power is
not optimal in my opinion. First I don't need the capability to set 56
instead of 57 Watts, second, those buttons are very close and roll very
easily so I happened to change accidentally the power when I only
wanted to change keying speed even though I do not have a big hand.
Plus they lack the visual indication (possible with a simple potmeter)
which would come handy for a simple visual sanity check for the sleep deprived 
mind. 

-
If I understand correctly I need to buy the KXV3A module just to
have an RX antenna capability. Maybe there is a workaround to connect RX
ant to the AUX ANT connector and use the SUB RX for RX and the main RX
to TX or vica versa, but I need to figure out exactly how. Or I need to
build in a relay and add an extra connector to the place of ANT2 or 3.
Something I need to put in later.

Any feedback would be gratefully appreciated, 73!

zoli HA1AG (CR5X in WWCW)



  
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Re: [Elecraft] First-timer's K3 experiences in WW CW

2009-12-04 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I recommend you download 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Owner's_Man_Rev_D5_Hi_Res.pdf
or the lower res 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Owner's_Man_Rev_D5_web_res.pdf

and search DISPLAY in there, but see below for specifics ...

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--  
Men build too many walls and not enough bridges.
-Isaac Newton, philosopher and mathematician (1642-1727)



On 4 Dec 2009, at 11:47, Zoli Pitman HA1AG wrote:

 Hello,

 I just received my K3 2 weeks before the WW CW so it was a rough  
 transition taking this rig in use. Steve K6AW helped me a lot,  
 spending lots of time with me on Skype explaining and giving tips  
 about how to use the K3 in contesting optimally. (TNX!!) I took the  
 K3 to Portugal where I had a mini M/S with Con DF4SA and Marq CT1BWW.

 I was impressed by the RX, it worked ufb, I only had a few issues,  
 which are either config
 issues (most likely my pilot errors) and some are supposedly design  
 issues, like:

 - I
 failed to find a way to get VFO-B freq permanently on display.

Use the DISPLAY button, in one setting it displays data about the rig  
(temp etc) in the other it displays VFO B (all the time).

Quote from pg 21 of Owners Manual:
The VFO B display can show a variety of
useful parameters in addition to the normal
frequency display. To see these, tap DISP (left
of the display), then rotate the VFO B knob.
The VFO B display will cycle through time,
date, RIT/XIT offset, supply voltage, current
drain, etc. (pg. 36).switches, PF1 , PF2 , and M1 – M4 (tap or hold).
Function menu entries can only be used via such
a switch assignment. (Examples, from the CONFIG
menu:  VFO B-A and TTY LTR.)
To set up a programmable function switch, first use



  Having to push that
 SUBVFO-SET button sucks. I would like to have the VFO-B dial to be  
 used
 only for VFO-B whenever the SUB-VFO is activated.

VFO-B is active all the time I believe and you just change it with the  
VFO-B knob

 press BSET (have to hold and not
 even tap only!)

BSET changes the VFO that all the controls affect, so by default they  
change VFO-A, hold BSET and now everything that controlled VFO-A  
(including the large VFO-A knob) now affects VFO-B (or the sub Rx if  
fitted) instead.

 I also failed to find a way to put the CLAR offset permanently on
 display. It keeps switching back to that PA temp etc.

This is because you've got the DISPLAY set to show that, just try  
tapping it.



Just a note:
Wayne and Eric (and everyone else involved with design etc) are radio  
amatures too, so if something doesn't work the way it normally would,  
chances are you're doing something wrong. The do get things wrong  
sometimes, they are human as well :-)
But generally, they know how a rig should work and how everyone will  
want it to work

73 de M0XDF 
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[Elecraft] Anyone using K3 only for VHF ?

2009-12-04 Thread Lionel Lhermitte
Hi guy's,

 

Quick question from today, is someone using K3 for VHF only ?(I'm using 2
SSB meters bands) What are the results ? Better than a jap's one ?

I'm ready to buy another K3 only to use in vhf mode. May be this looks
stupid for some of you, but if RX quality is here..I will not hesitate.

VHF frequency is displayed on main or sub ?

Any comments are attended

73, Lionel, Paris, France.

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Re: [Elecraft] Top Ten Devices band decoder interfacing

2009-12-04 Thread Jim McDonald
Paul,

I can't answer your question but N3RD of Top Ten Devices no doubt can.

I use the Yaesu TT decoder that I had used with my FT-2000D, now sold, but I
bought the Top Ten cable for the K3 rather than making my own.  It works
fine with my 160, 80, 40, 30M antennas and a SteppIR that covers 20-6M.  I
have to manually switch to the SteppIR for 6M, but the others switch
automatically my DX Engineering switch on top of the tower.

Jim N7US




-Original Message-

Hi all,

Have purchased a Top Ten Devices band decoder and am about to build a 
cable to connect it to the K3.

Can someone please tell me if the band switching matrix is as follows?

Band A - Band 0
Band B - Band 1
Band C - Band 2
Band D - Band 3

Thanks in advance,

Cheers,

Paul


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Re: [Elecraft] Obtaining spares from Elecraft

2009-12-04 Thread Mike Harris
G'day,

If I post something to the UK it is usually delivered within five 
working days of departing VP8 (including a day in the air).  When I 
order anything from Elecraft it takes 2-3 weeks to arrive, always 
has done.  All my Elecraft stuff comes air letter post (expensive) 
because the US parcel services have no clue about the Falklands, at 
least in California they don't.  Other companies like LL Bean or 
Landsend manage perfectly well.  However, I must stress that in 2000 
Lisa went out of her way to try and sort it out, even contacting LL 
Bean.

So it looks like it's just the system.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO
K2 #1400
K3 #345


- Original Message - 
From: Julian, G4ILO julian.g4...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 6:16 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Obtaining spares from Elecraft





 AD6XY wrote:


 All this is very interesting. It certainly demonstrates the need 
 for the
 continual product testing Elecraft undertake. Sending spares to 
 remote
 regions with poor postal services, e.g. the UK is an expensive 
 and slow
 business.


 International post is slow, period, unless you are prepared to pay 
 FedEx
 prices. I recently ordered two Finger Dimples, one for my K2 and 
 one for the
 Griffin PowerMate remote tuning knob for the K3, and they took 4 
 weeks to
 arrive. It is definitely worse than 10 years ago when a part for 
 my K2 took
 just 4 days to get here.

 I don't know what the answer is short of a European distributor 
 that also
 carries spares and handles servicing.

 -
 Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.

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[Elecraft] OT - Motorola Droid

2009-12-04 Thread Jim McDonald
As a former Motorola employee, I belong to the Motorola Amateur Radio Club.
The MARC reflector has had a few postings on ham apps for the Droid.  Rather
than send them to this list, I can forward them to anyone interested.

Jim N7US





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Re: [Elecraft] P3 specs?

2009-12-04 Thread paul bijpost
K PSE ?:-)

I may have missed this but were any preliminary specifications published on
the P3?
Such as maximum bandwidth and dynamic range.
What is the exact injection point in K3's frontend?
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Re: [Elecraft] First-timer's K3 experiences in WW CW

2009-12-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Zoli,

The solution to your VFO B display request is easy - just tap the DISP 
button.

73,
Don W3FPR

Zoli Pitman HA1AG wrote:
 - I
 failed to find a way to get VFO-B freq permanently on display. My K3
 keeps showing PA temp, time, PS current and voltage etc and it toggles
 between these when I toss the dial of the sub-VFO. Having to push that
 SUBVFO-SET button sucks. I would like to have the VFO-B dial to be used
 only for VFO-B whenever the SUB-VFO is activated. I checked the manual back
 and forth on the plane back and could not find such an option. What I
 found is that I either tune VFO-A or press BSET (have to hold and not
 even tap only!) and then and only then can change VFO-B freq. I badly missed 
 the
 capability of the MP to tune A and B independently and engage and
 disengage dual-rx quickly.

   

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Re: [Elecraft] First-timer's K3 experiences in WW CW

2009-12-04 Thread drewko
You can set the SLOPE to minimum value and THR to maximum value for a
more non-AGC AGC. 

Also, set AF LIM to a setting that will protect your ears when the AGC
is turned off; this will clip excessive volume (and therefore it will
sound distorted) but does save your ear drums

VFOB can be made to permanently display with the DISP control.

I also would like to have the receive antenna but have no use for KXV3
otherwise.

-- 
73,
Drew
AF2Z


On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 03:47:14 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

Hello, 

I just received my K3 2 weeks before the WW CW so it was a rough transition 
taking this rig in use. Steve K6AW helped me a lot, spending lots of time with 
me on Skype explaining and giving tips about how to use the K3 in contesting 
optimally. (TNX!!) I took the K3 to Portugal where I had a mini M/S with Con 
DF4SA and Marq CT1BWW. 

I was impressed by the RX, it worked ufb, I only had a few issues, which are 
either config
issues (most likely my pilot errors) and some are supposedly design issues, 
like: 

- I
failed to find a way to get VFO-B freq permanently on display. My K3
keeps showing PA temp, time, PS current and voltage etc and it toggles
between these when I toss the dial of the sub-VFO. Having to push that
SUBVFO-SET button sucks. I would like to have the VFO-B dial to be used
only for VFO-B whenever the SUB-VFO is activated. I checked the manual back
and forth on the plane back and could not find such an option. What I
found is that I either tune VFO-A or press BSET (have to hold and not
even tap only!) and then and only then can change VFO-B freq. I badly missed 
the
capability of the MP to tune A and B independently and engage and
disengage dual-rx quickly.

-
I also failed to find a way to put the CLAR offset permanently on
display. It keeps switching back to that PA temp etc. Sometimes I
wandered too much off my run freq  without noticing it. Having the CLAR offset 
permanently displayed whenever activated would be a useful reminder. It seems
CLAR offset is only displayed when I change it.

- The hint to turn AGC off whenever possible and control with RF-gain was
really a good one. it really helped me to pick up the weaker USA calls
among the pile of EUs. It was a very enjoyable challange. However I
missed a sort of AGC in the audio stage, because when I got called by
some really strong stations my eardrums were in pain... 

- I purchased
250/500 Hz CW filters. There is a dramatic change between those. In addition 
it seemed AGC was pumped badly when I went for a narrower DSP BW than the 
roofing filter. I
think for contesting I should put 250/400 and for casual DXing the
loose 500Hz filters are perfect. 250/400/500 would give me a very
gradual change. Lowbands in WW are the ultimate test for IF design I guess. 

- Having optical encoders for speed and power is
not optimal in my opinion. First I don't need the capability to set 56
instead of 57 Watts, second, those buttons are very close and roll very
easily so I happened to change accidentally the power when I only
wanted to change keying speed even though I do not have a big hand.
Plus they lack the visual indication (possible with a simple potmeter)
which would come handy for a simple visual sanity check for the sleep deprived 
mind. 

-
If I understand correctly I need to buy the KXV3A module just to
have an RX antenna capability. Maybe there is a workaround to connect RX
ant to the AUX ANT connector and use the SUB RX for RX and the main RX
to TX or vica versa, but I need to figure out exactly how. Or I need to
build in a relay and add an extra connector to the place of ANT2 or 3.
Something I need to put in later.

Any feedback would be gratefully appreciated, 73!

zoli HA1AG (CR5X in WWCW)



  
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Re: [Elecraft] Obtaining spares from Elecraft

2009-12-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike,

I believe the answer to the delays can be found in your country's 
customs house.  Apparently items from LandsEnd or LL Bean pass through 
quickly.

73,
Don W3FPR

Mike Harris wrote:
 G'day,

 If I post something to the UK it is usually delivered within five 
 working days of departing VP8 (including a day in the air).  When I 
 order anything from Elecraft it takes 2-3 weeks to arrive, always 
 has done.  All my Elecraft stuff comes air letter post (expensive) 
 because the US parcel services have no clue about the Falklands, at 
 least in California they don't.  Other companies like LL Bean or 
 Landsend manage perfectly well.  However, I must stress that in 2000 
 Lisa went out of her way to try and sort it out, even contacting LL 
 Bean.

 So it looks like it's just the system.
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Broken AF knob and bad service to get an replacement.

2009-12-04 Thread Craig WØLV

I have had my K3 for almost two years now and NO problems either.  Also
VERY good service from all at Elecraft.

Craig W0LV



Tord wrote:
 
 Hi Elecrafters! 
 Must tell you!
 Broken AF Knobs.And bad service to get a replacement.
 Still same shit? very very bad quality? its happend again, broken in
 pieces.
 
 Purchased a new factory built K3  03/18/2009.A week after I get it AF
 button  went to pieces. 
 Ordered new and had to wait eight weeks for a new one. Now it is broken
 again,
 in three pieces and how long should I wait to get a replacement this time? 
 three months? 
 Also unable to find Allen wrench 0.050 here!
 This is really bad. really bad! 
 Sorry to say.My experience of Elecraft service is really bad. But its
 true.
 73/ SM3ALR Tord 
  K3/100 #2926.
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View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Broken-AF-knob-and-bad-service-to-get-an-replacement-tp4105121p4112608.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Broken AF knob and bad service to get a replacement.

2009-12-04 Thread drewko
Nah, fractions are better than metric-- more rational.

-- 
73,
Drew
AF2Z


On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 00:24:44 -0800 (PST), Mike, UK. wrote:


Failing Eric or Wayne running for president and changing this, and with
Elecraft now becoming a major international force, would it not be better to
use metric for new Elecraft designs?

Mike, UK.

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Re: [Elecraft] Obtaining spares from Elecraft

2009-12-04 Thread Mike Harris
Hi Don,

Stick to the K2, you know something about that.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Mike Harris mike.har...@cwimail.fk
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Obtaining spares from Elecraft


 Mike,

 I believe the answer to the delays can be found in your country's
 customs house.  Apparently items from LandsEnd or LL Bean pass 
 through
 quickly.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Mike Harris wrote:
 G'day,

 If I post something to the UK it is usually delivered within five
 working days of departing VP8 (including a day in the air).  When 
 I
 order anything from Elecraft it takes 2-3 weeks to arrive, always
 has done.  All my Elecraft stuff comes air letter post 
 (expensive)
 because the US parcel services have no clue about the Falklands, 
 at
 least in California they don't.  Other companies like LL Bean or
 Landsend manage perfectly well.  However, I must stress that in 
 2000
 Lisa went out of her way to try and sort it out, even contacting 
 LL
 Bean.

 So it looks like it's just the system.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Broken AF knob and bad service to get a replacement.

2009-12-04 Thread Gary D Krause
No way.  Decimals are much easier to work with.  Our frequencies are measured 
in decimal and I sure wouldn't like to see my rig display it in fractions. 
 Our money is written in decimals.  It's just a matter of not comparing 
imperial with metric.  If you do that you will never get it, in my opinion. 
 It's kind of like learning code.  If you constantly visualize each letter or 
number after you hear it, you will never get past five words a minute.  You 
have to learn it by ear.  Same with metrics.  You have to forget about 
imperial and stop trying to convert one system to another.

I work in an industry that has gone from imperial to metric and then back to 
imperial again.  Each time it was because, of politicians.  Metric is much 
better.  Just my opinion.

Gary, N7HTS


On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 09:15:04 -0500
  drewko drew...@verizon.net wrote:
 Nah, fractions are better than metric-- more rational.
 
 -- 
 73,
 Drew
 AF2Z
 
 
 On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 00:24:44 -0800 (PST), Mike, UK. wrote:
 

Failing Eric or Wayne running for president and changing this, and with
Elecraft now becoming a major international force, would it not be better to
use metric for new Elecraft designs?

Mike, UK.
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Broken AF knob and bad service to get a replacement.

2009-12-04 Thread Bob
Why not have displays in wavelengths and fractions of wavelengths as we 
are all familiar with them.

1/2 wave dipoles. 1/4 wave matching stubs, 5/8 wave verticals etc.  Also 
no band to frequency
conversions will be required.

Bob
K2TK

Gary D Krause wrote:
 No way.  Decimals are much easier to work with.  Our frequencies are measured 
 in decimal and I sure wouldn't like to see my rig display it in fractions. 

 Gary, N7HTS
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Broken AF knob and bad service to geta replacement.

2009-12-04 Thread Matt Zilmer
People will change the ID any way they want.  If that includes
changing knobs to something that wasn't custom designed, seems like
there's nothing to be done.  There was someone who put on a bluish
sidelight some time ago, and another that modified control labels.
Even one that stenciled something on the LCD panel lens...

Personally I like the knob set on the K3 as-is.  Reasons:

- Aesthetics.  Surface and groove radius are similar to the K3
enclosure.

- Just the right size.  YMMV here.

- Proper weighting, meaning torque to turn, and initial stiction.

- Deep enough to operate using finger tips or pads, but no so deep
that they change the unit's depth dimension by too much.

- Frobbing of the VFO knobs (both, imho) allows enough play to spin
them.  So the flywheel effect is about right.  You can adjust
flywheel-ability to suit yourself.

- Fine control just takes getting used to.  Same on any rig.

All in all, a good compromise between cost, look  feel, size, and
human engineering.  

Just my $0.02.  Don't start a flame war over this.  It's not worth it.
73,
matt W6NIA
K3 #24, K2 #2810

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 13:36:04 -0800, you wrote:

I may be biased (I designed the K3's knobs, switches, LCD, and  
packaging with intent to have everything match, aesthetically), but I  
strongly recommend *not* changing the knobs to anything else.

If you're only doing it because you have one that's defective, please  
request a replacement from Elecraft. We had a batch manufactured with  
the wrong material, and I thought we had sent replacements to all  
affected K3 owners, but perhaps not.

If you're doing it because you'd like machined aluminum knobs rather  
than plastic, send me a private email telling me how much you'd be  
willing to pay for a complete set of them :)  It is certainly possible  
to have them made from aluminum, but the cost would be dramatically  
higher. Off the top of my head I'm guessing it would have added  
$150-200 to the cost of the radio.

Mouser aluminum knobs (or any other off-the-shelf knobs) will not  
match the K3. I'd rather design new ones from scratch.

But I personally like the molded plastic knobs, which are easy on the  
fingers.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


p...@n4lcd.com wrote:

 To be honest I don't think they suit the look of the K3. They don't  
 even
 match the other knobs. It might be a solution in ten years time  
 when a knob
 breaks and Elecraft doesn't make them any more, but that's the  
 situation I'd
 really like to avoid.



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Re: [Elecraft] (Fwd) Re: Droid

2009-12-04 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
[Not OT]

Yes, there is a K3 / Elecraft connection here. ;-) Anyone interested in 
writing a K3 remote control app for the Droid/Android OS?  Contact me 
directly if you are. The Moto Droid makes an excellent platform for 
portable remote control. I'm -very- interested in doing this for the K3. 
I'm also in interested in using it for data modes etc.

[OT]

I'm extremely happy with the Motorola Droid. (I upgraded from using 
using several versions of the Palm Treo over the past 6 years.)

Battery life has not been a problem for my usage profile. I'm a heavy 
unlimited data plan user for email and web (many of my elecraft posts 
here come via my PDA phone), but I'm also trained to dock and charge my 
phone when I am in the car, office and at night. Same as I did for the 
Treo. But I frequently go all day without charging until I go to bed. I 
suspect many that quote short battery life during their early days of 
infatuation and heavy usage of the phone as they download apps, browse 
the web, call and email all their friends, view YouTube K3 videos and 
generally have fun with the new toy. ;-)
All of the apps I had on my Palm Treo were available for the Droid, and 
I was able to transfer over my contacts and data in short order. Via 
Google calendar I'm able to stay 100% in sync between my various PCs and 
the Droid. Its a huge productivity booster.

Bottom line for me: With its large high resolution touch color display, 
slide out keyboard, 3G + Wifi networks, 5 MP camera / vid cam, and its 
Google based Android open operating system, the Moto Driod on Verizon is 
a strong competitor for the iPhone on ATT's weaker network. Numerous 
phones from several manufacturers now available with the Android OS, 
which is rapidly creating a strong applications base as programmers jump 
on board. I've loaded numerous Ham Radio apps already. There are over 
10,000 apps on the Droid site so far, with hundreds more appearing each 
day. Rumor is that over 500,000 Droids have been shipped since its 
introduction a month ago.

73,
Eric  WA6HHQ

[Let's limit this thread to a 1-2 more posts today and then end it.]
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Broken AF knob and bad service to get a replacement. [END of Thread]

2009-12-04 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Let's end this thread for now.

(We currently supply the hex wrenches with all kit -and- built K3s to 
avoid this problem overseas.)

73, Eric


Rick Dettinger wrote:
 Its not patriotism, we just have a lot of inertia over here!  We are  
 probably another century away from joining the rest of the world.   
 But we do know what side of the road to drive on )-:
 
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Re: [Elecraft] knobs

2009-12-04 Thread r miles
I received mine VERY fast but I'm in the US. As a retired postal clerk I can 
tell you lots of stories about shipping thru customs. I retired before 911 but 
even in 2000 some countries were fast  some slow or stop. Even the smallest 
padded  bag took a month to clear customs in France. One customer sent cremated 
ashes to Mexico. That was over 3 months til delivery. I could speak  dozens of 
such stories. Hang in there. They'll arrive.
k9il K3 #2626
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[Elecraft] K3 mods

2009-12-04 Thread Steven Zabarnick
Yesterday I overcame my fears :-) and successfully performed the  
following mods on my K3 (S/N 1672):

K3 AF Mod (Line out  speaker)
IF Output Buffer Gain Mod
K3 Extreme Signal RX Protection Mod

But, I was not able to perform the K3 AF Output Mod (two 470 ohm  
resistors on the KIO3 board). I found it impossible to hold the  
resistor in place will soldering to the connector pins. Does anyone  
have any suggestions on techniques for installing these resistors?

Steve N9SZ

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[Elecraft] K3

2009-12-04 Thread CHARLES JORDON
K3 SN 1194 has all ways work fine no problems.Most problems is the operater
W8CDJ

Charles D Jordan
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Broken AF knob and bad service to get a replacement.

2009-12-04 Thread John
At 10:07 AM 04/12/09, you wrote:
  Its not patriotism, we just have a lot of inertia over here!  We are
  probably another century away from joining the rest of the world.
  But we do know what side of the road to drive on )-:

Also one must consider the large cost to replace almost all of your 
tools. For example, metric   pliers, side cutters, screwdrivers and 
adjustable wrenches (spanners), just to name a few items. Have you 
ever tried to price a metric hacksaw blade? Good luck!

John
k7up  
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Re: [Elecraft] Anyone using K3 only for VHF ?

2009-12-04 Thread Radio Amateur N5GE
On Fri, 4 Dec 2009 13:12:56 +0100, Lionel Lhermitte
f6...@orange.fr wrote:

In Line:

Hi guy's,

 

Quick question from today, is someone using K3 for VHF only ?(I'm using 2
SSB meters bands) What are the results ? Better than a jap's one ?

I have the following Japanese rigs; Kenwood TS-711A (2m only), Yaesu
FT-736R (2m and 70cm) and a Yaesu 857D (2m and 70cm).  I have two
K3's; one is dedicated to VHF/UHF.  The VHF/UHF K3 uses the XV144 and
XV432 Transverters.  It out performs all three of the Japanese rigs on
RX and TX.


I'm ready to buy another K3 only to use in vhf mode. May be this looks
stupid for some of you, but if RX quality is here..I will not hesitate.

VHF frequency is displayed on main or sub ?

VHF and UHF are displayed on both VFO's depending on which XVTR is
selected.

[snip]

Tom, N5GE

n...@n5ge.com
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

1 K144XV on order

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 6M operation

2009-12-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
The PRE icon pertains only to the K3's internal preamp. I suggest  
turning it off in most cases when you're using the PR6. Otherwise  
you'll have more gain than necessary, possibly degrading dynamic  
range. (With the PR6 on -- giving you an MDS of about -144 dBm --  
turning on the internal preamp would provide only a small fraction of  
a dB improvement.)

To turn the PR6 itself on, you need to turn on the RX ANT path (which  
you have done), but you also have to power the preamp. You can leave  
it powered all the time (via a jumper block, if I'm remembering  
correctly), or (preferably) turn it on/off using the DIGOUT1 signal on  
the 15-pin accessory jack. The PR6 manual should cover all of this.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Dec 4, 2009, at 10:32 AM, Mike wrote:

 No one knows?

 Mike wrote:
 I installed the PR6, hooked up to the control line. I set up the  
 CONFIG
 menu. When I put the rig on 6M, and tap RX ANT to turn on the PR6,  
 the
 display shows RX and PRE.
 Is the other preamp engaged at the same time? The PRE on the LCD  
 can be
 toggled by tapping the PRE button.

 73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 6M operation

2009-12-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi Mike,

The PRE setting is already stored separately in the RX ANT on and off  
cases, on a per-band basis. (This is also the case for the K2.)

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Dec 4, 2009, at 10:56 AM, Mike wrote:

 Thanks Wayne -
 Is there a way to disconnect the internal preamp from the RX ANT  
 button, so that tapping the RX ANT button doesn't turn on the  
 internal preamp?

 Mike
 Wayne Burdick wrote:
 The PRE icon pertains only to the K3's internal preamp. I suggest   
 turning it off in most cases when you're using the PR6. Otherwise   
 you'll have more gain than necessary, possibly degrading dynamic   
 range. (With the PR6 on -- giving you an MDS of about -144 dBm --   
 turning on the internal preamp would provide only a small fraction  
 of  a dB improvement.)

 To turn the PR6 itself on, you need to turn on the RX ANT path  
 (which  you have done), but you also have to power the preamp. You  
 can leave  it powered all the time (via a jumper block, if I'm  
 remembering  correctly), or (preferably) turn it on/off using the  
 DIGOUT1 signal on  the 15-pin accessory jack. The PR6 manual should  
 cover all of this.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


 On Dec 4, 2009, at 10:32 AM, Mike wrote:


 No one knows?

 Mike wrote:

 I installed the PR6, hooked up to the control line. I set up the   
 CONFIG
 menu. When I put the rig on 6M, and tap RX ANT to turn on the  
 PR6,  the
 display shows RX and PRE.
 Is the other preamp engaged at the same time? The PRE on the LCD   
 can be
 toggled by tapping the PRE button.

 73, Mike NF4L


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 6M operation

2009-12-04 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Just push the PRE button while RX ANT is enabled. That toggles it on/off 
for the RX ANT path. It is remembered separately for this path.

73, Eric


Mike wrote:
 Thanks Wayne -
 Is there a way to disconnect the internal preamp from the RX ANT button, 
 so that tapping the RX ANT button doesn't turn on the internal preamp?

 Mike
 Wayne Burdick wrote:
   
 The PRE icon pertains only to the K3's internal preamp. I suggest  
 turning it off in most cases when you're using the PR6. Otherwise  
 you'll have more gain than necessary, possibly degrading dynamic  
 range. (With the PR6 on -- giving you an MDS of about -144 dBm --  
 turning on the internal preamp would provide only a small fraction of  
 a dB improvement.)

 To turn the PR6 itself on, you need to turn on the RX ANT path (which  
 you have done), but you also have to power the preamp. You can leave  
 it powered all the time (via a jumper block, if I'm remembering  
 correctly), or (preferably) turn it on/off using the DIGOUT1 signal on  
 the 15-pin accessory jack. The PR6 manual should cover all of this.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 6M operation

2009-12-04 Thread Mike
OK! Thanks again Wayne.

74, Mike NF4L

Wayne Burdick wrote:
 Hi Mike,

 The PRE setting is already stored separately in the RX ANT on and off 
 cases, on a per-band basis. (This is also the case for the K2.)

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR

 On Dec 4, 2009, at 10:56 AM, Mike wrote:

 Thanks Wayne -
 Is there a way to disconnect the internal preamp from the RX ANT 
 button, so that tapping the RX ANT button doesn't turn on the 
 internal preamp?

 Mike
 Wayne Burdick wrote:
 The PRE icon pertains only to the K3's internal preamp. I suggest  
 turning it off in most cases when you're using the PR6. Otherwise  
 you'll have more gain than necessary, possibly degrading dynamic  
 range. (With the PR6 on -- giving you an MDS of about -144 dBm --  
 turning on the internal preamp would provide only a small fraction 
 of  a dB improvement.)

 To turn the PR6 itself on, you need to turn on the RX ANT path 
 (which  you have done), but you also have to power the preamp. You 
 can leave  it powered all the time (via a jumper block, if I'm 
 remembering  correctly), or (preferably) turn it on/off using the 
 DIGOUT1 signal on  the 15-pin accessory jack. The PR6 manual should 
 cover all of this.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


 On Dec 4, 2009, at 10:32 AM, Mike wrote:


 No one knows?

 Mike wrote:

 I installed the PR6, hooked up to the control line. I set up the  
 CONFIG
 menu. When I put the rig on 6M, and tap RX ANT to turn on the 
 PR6,  the
 display shows RX and PRE.
 Is the other preamp engaged at the same time? The PRE on the LCD  
 can be
 toggled by tapping the PRE button.

 73, Mike NF4L


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[Elecraft] K2 and then what?

2009-12-04 Thread Gary D Krause
I should be receiving the KPA100 today for my K2.  I started thinking about 
what I'm going to do, kit wise, after installing it?  I've got all of the 
options that I want now and I don't want to build a K1 or any of the smaller 
kits.  The K3 looks appealing but, it's not a kit in the same sense as the K2 
is with having to solder components.  It sure would be nice if Elecraft had 
another HF kit that is somewhere between a K2 and K3 or maybe a kit that is 
more for home station use than portable.

Gary, N7HTS



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 6M operation

2009-12-04 Thread Mike
Thanks Mike -

My questions have been amply and fully answered, except why turning on 
the PR6 turned on the internal preamp as well. But since I now know how 
to prevent that, all is good.

73, Mike(2) NF4L

Mike Harris wrote:
 G'day Mike,

 Control of the K3 internal pre-amp is independent of the PR6.  That is 
 you can have neither, either or both. You should be able to hear the 
 difference.

 RX ANT will switch the PR6 and PRE will switch the K3 internal pre-amp.

 If you are switching the PR6 using the CONFIG DIGOUT 1 setting note 
 that you have to enable it for each ANT if you have a KAT3 installed.  
 You might not always use the same antenna port for 6M. This wasn't 
 mentioned in the PR6 paperwork and I had a deaf moment until I figured 
 that one out.

 You can select CONFIG: DIGOUT 1 and toggle the ANT to check that both 
 are On.

 I trust that answers your question.

 Regards,

 Mike VP8NO
 - Original Message - From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
 To: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 3:32 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 6M operation


 No one knows?

 Mike wrote:
 I installed the PR6, hooked up to the control line. I set up the CONFIG
 menu. When I put the rig on 6M, and tap RX ANT to turn on the PR6, the
 display shows RX and PRE.
 Is the other preamp engaged at the same time? The PRE on the LCD can be
 toggled by tapping the PRE button.

 73, Mike NF4L




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Broken AF knob and bad service to get a replacement.

2009-12-04 Thread Jim Miller KG0KP
I have been dreading the day we go to metric TIME. That will take some 
getting use to.

73, de Jim KG0KP

- Original Message - 
From: John k...@hughes.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Broken AF knob and bad service to get a 
replacement.


 At 10:07 AM 04/12/09, you wrote:
  Its not patriotism, we just have a lot of inertia over here!  We are
  probably another century away from joining the rest of the world.
  But we do know what side of the road to drive on )-:

 Also one must consider the large cost to replace almost all of your
 tools. For example, metric   pliers, side cutters, screwdrivers and
 adjustable wrenches (spanners), just to name a few items. Have you
 ever tried to price a metric hacksaw blade? Good luck!

 John
 k7up
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[Elecraft] K3 Power Problem ??

2009-12-04 Thread Jim Harris

Hi Folks,

When doing RTTY at 100 watts a high current warning flashes in the VFO B 
display area and RF power is automatically cut back to about 60 watts.  SWR is 
about 1.1:1 or there abouts; nothing approaching 1.5:1.  I have found there is 
0.6 volts drop in the Elecraft supplied power cable (Power Poles are soldered) 
and about 0.2 volt drop between my power supply and the output of the 
Rigrunner.  It's between the power supply and the K3.  Voltage at the radio 
drops to 13.2 vdc and current is 23-24 amps on transmit.  Under that load the 
voltage at the power supply drops 0.01 volts.  I run the power supply (it's 
variable) at 14.0 volts at the supply.  It's a 40 amp power supply.  I have a 
popular off shore rig that has no problem with the existing power setup.

In reading the Supply/Voltage Current specifications on page eight (8) of the 
Owners Manual I find it recommends  When using reduced supply voltage 
(12volts), power output should be reduced (e.g. 70 W at 11 V).  Further, For 
best results, use the supplied 5 foot (1.3 m) power cable.  Those two 
statements appear to be in error when applied to my radio.

My K3 appears to be overly sensitive to voltage and current.  The only 
adjustment I can locate that might relate to this is the menu CONFIG:ADC REF 
entry. However, I seriously doubt it will have any impact on this as this 
appears to be a serious error and adjust appears to be for fine tuning at best.

I certainly would appreciate any ones constructive input on this situation.  I 
could appreciate knowing the gauge of the supplied cableI'm hoping that 
doubling or tripling the size might help.  But, that seems to be a bandaide 
rather that eliminating the root cause.

Thank, have a good day and 73.

Jim, W0EM


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Problem ??

2009-12-04 Thread Bob Naumann
Jim,

23 to 24 amps is excessive current to be drawing at 14v and probably means
that you are drawing too much.

Have you verified that those watt meters are accurate?

As some comparison data, running 100 watts out of my K3 into a 1:1.1 SWR it
only draws 17.1 amps.

73,

Bob W5OV



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Harris
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 10:41 PM
To: w...@w5ov.com; Elecraft Email; Gary Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Problem ??


Hi,

Exactly 100 watts set on K3.  Measured about 90 watts out on two external
watt meters.  One on an MFJ antenna tuner and the other is a high end MFJ
power meter.  They agree within a couple of watts near 100 watts measured.

Have a good day and 73.

Jim, W0EM




 From: w...@w5ov.com
 To: w...@q.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net; g...@elecraft.com
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Power Problem ??
 Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 21:51:35 -0600
 
 Jim,
 
 23 to 24 amps on transmit? The manual says you should have 17 to 22. At
14v
 it sure sounds like you're running a lot more than 100w out. 
 
 How are you measuring the output?
 
 W5OV
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Harris
 Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 7:46 PM
 To: Elecraft Email; Gary Elecraft
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Power Problem ??
 
 
 Hi Folks,
 
 When doing RTTY at 100 watts a high current warning flashes in the VFO B
 display area and RF power is automatically cut back to about 60 watts.
SWR
 is about 1.1:1 or there abouts; nothing approaching 1.5:1.  I have found
 there is 0.6 volts drop in the Elecraft supplied power cable (Power Poles
 are soldered) and about 0.2 volt drop between my power supply and the
output
 of the Rigrunner.  It's between the power supply and the K3.  Voltage at
the
 radio drops to 13.2 vdc and current is 23-24 amps on transmit.  Under that
 load the voltage at the power supply drops 0.01 volts.  I run the power
 supply (it's variable) at 14.0 volts at the supply.  It's a 40 amp power
 supply.  I have a popular off shore rig that has no problem with the
 existing power setup.
 
 In reading the Supply/Voltage Current specifications on page eight (8) of
 the Owners Manual I find it recommends  When using reduced supply voltage
 (12volts), power output should be reduced (e.g. 70 W at 11 V).  Further,
 For best results, use the supplied 5 foot (1.3 m) power cable.  Those
two
 statements appear to be in error when applied to my radio.
 
 My K3 appears to be overly sensitive to voltage and current.  The only
 adjustment I can locate that might relate to this is the menu CONFIG:ADC
REF
 entry. However, I seriously doubt it will have any impact on this as this
 appears to be a serious error and adjust appears to be for fine tuning at
 best.
 
 I certainly would appreciate any ones constructive input on this
situation.
 I could appreciate knowing the gauge of the supplied cableI'm hoping
 that doubling or tripling the size might help.  But, that seems to be a
 bandaide rather that eliminating the root cause.
 
 Thank, have a good day and 73.
 
 Jim, W0EM
 
 
 
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[Elecraft] AF/RF Knob situation - joined the club

2009-12-04 Thread ajsoenke
After 2+ years of operation K-3 SN31 has just succumbed to a compound failure 
of the smaller Main control AF and RF knobs.
I thought I was pretty lucky when I first saw list notes about the knobs 
failing and figured maybe a bad batch, etc. The rig SN 31 was originally placed 
in service in late October 2007. Last week during CQWW I lost AF control, 
determined the knob ws slipping and took a closer look. One of the set screws 
was at the face of a fracture that ran across the entire half of the shaft 
recess. For a quick fix, I decided to swap knobs with RF control. I no sooner 
slipped the other knob on the AF shaft and it split lengthwise. Quick trip to 
the junk box and an old Heathkit all metal knob saved the day. 

Today I take a look at the list and WOW what do I see, 3 days of knobitis has 
hit the fan.  So, maybe the problem is not going to go away that soon. I figure 
if Elecraft hasn't been real responsive about the problem, they are at a loss 
for answers and need a few days to regroup. It does happen now and then. So, I 
haven't called for or requested any replacement pars right now. What I have 
done is take a look at some of the vast number of oscilloscopes I have piled up 
around my classroom. I have Leader, Heath, Phillips, Toshiba, Hitachi, Tek, ad 
HPs - several dozen. The only one that doesn't have a mini shaft control onit 
anywhere is a 60 year old DuMont. At least 75% of these scopes are over 25 
years old and have had pretty rough handling in school room. Some I even 
brought to the classroom after 20 years use in my engineering Labs. Not one has 
ever had to have a knob replaced for breakage.

So what's the difference?  As far as I can tell the main difference, besides 
color, is the old well used knobs are made of a platic that is more compliant, 
and most have a metal collar inserted in them, but not all. The Heatkits from 
early days - up til about 1970 used metal knobs in most ham rig applications. 
My 54 year old Hallicrafters use plain plastic knobs - no inserts but larger 
shaft size. 

I have always used a very light touch when tightening the set screws, so I have 
no fear I overdid it.

Right now the plan here is to get the operation stabilized with the best thing 
I can find, then, if I like the feel and appearance, stick with it til Elecraft 
gets a handle on things and can supply good replacements.  Some of the Heath 
metal knobs are an almost perfect match and could be anodized black for a 
durable finish.

Al,  WA6VNN   
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