[Elecraft] [OT]: Antenna Tuners - one more reason

2010-04-15 Thread Al Lorona
There are many hams who dislike antenna tuners and will go to great lengths to 
avoid having to use one, including putting up multiple antennas, trimming 
antennas inch by inch, and using elaborate matching schemes involving 
transmission lines of various lengths and Zo.

Besides the tremendous freedom a good antenna tuner gives you with regard to 
the length of your antenna, length of your feedline, type of feedline, and 
choice of operating frequency, there is one other advantage that many often 
forget and which I rarely hear explained.

I use a homebrew link-coupled balanced tuner. It's getting harder to find a 
commercially-built link-coupled unit, but the most famous example is the good 
old Johnson Matchbox which most folks are familiar with.

Anyway, the advantage I'm talking about is that when properly adjusted, a 
link-coupled tuner acts as a high-pass filter. This means that it provides 
additional rejection of AM broadcast stations in the 530 - 1710 kHz band. This 
is really important to many hams, particularly when they live close to one of 
these high-powered transmitters which are always on and have plenty 
of potential for causing problems in the receiver.

I have run simulations of my particular tuner (which is not exactly like a 
Johnson) which show that I enjoy a minimum of -30 dB of rejection at 1710 kHz 
(the closest end of the broadcast band and thus, the worst case) when I am 
tuned up on 80 meters, and -50 dB when I'm tuned on 40 meters. I have confirmed 
these numbers with measurements.

I have troublemakers at 1110 and 1300 kHz, both 50 kW only about 1.5 miles 
away. I believe they would cause me some problems if I did not have this tuner 
in the line which knocks them down by 42 and 38 dB, respectively, when I am 
operating on 80 meters. When you knock down a 50 kW signal by 40 dB, it looks 
like a mere 5 W signal!

So the next time someone complains about lossy tuners, or having to twirl 
dials, remind them that there is this hidden benefit to using a good 
old-fashioned, link-coupled tuner.
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Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!

2010-04-15 Thread Tom W8JI
 On SSB it isn't so much the folks on ESSB, although we 
have a few of those
here also unfortunately, but rather the poorly adjusted 1KW 
plus amplifierrs
and badly adjusted audio that causes me to screw up my nose 
and do a quick
QSY..(:-))

If we are every going to fix things we need to honestly 
discuss the real problems.

I have been doing a survey of ops on 20 and 40 meters with 
very bad signals, and nearly all the nasty signals were not 
high power. Most, after I broke in for a friendly chat, we 
running small amps and just mistuning or overdriving them. 
A significant number had peaked their radios up and were 
running a bit more output from a 100 watt radio. As a matter 
of fact a contestor who brought his FT1000MP's to me had his 
100 watt radios screwed up to 130-140 watts, so this may be 
a more common practice then we think. I lowered his radios 
to 100 watts, and after a while when the radios came back 
for another update they were back up to 130-140 watts again. 
At that power level the radios had IM3 in the -20 dB PEP 
range, and products out to the 17th order were still strong.

For all those intent on boosting low power radios with a 
cheap external PA, you can see measurements here:
http://www.w8ji.com/rm_hla-150_test.htm

The very best the RM Italy amp gets on *any band at any 
power* is about like a FT1000MP on the very WORSE band for 
the MP.

There is no convincing people that our 100 watt radios at 
100 watts are barely acceptable as is, and that all these 
little tricks that give another 1-2 dB more power can 
increase splatter 15 dB or more. Worse yet, those cheap 
illegal amplifiers that make 10-watt radios into 100 watters 
are going to be our undoing.

73 Tom 

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT]: Antenna Tuners - one more reason

2010-04-15 Thread Tom W8JI
Using a tuner to get rid of BCB problems often works quite 
well. That's a good suggestion because most of the time it 
works, although there are cases where it might not work as 
well or can even make things worse.

The typical T-network tuner is a highpass configuration  and 
will generally reject lower frequency signals at a more 
rapidly increasing attenuation than above the tuner 
frequency. Most link coupled tuners are actually a 
bandpass circuit, not a highpass.

In all cases we should remember the exact suppression 
characteristics depend on the impedances presented by the 
radio and the antenna system at the undesired frequency to 
the network. There are cases where a tuner (of nearly any 
type) can actually increase the level of an undesired 
out-of-band signal, even though that same tuner looks good 
into a 50-ohm resistor from a 50-ohm source.

It is the characteristics of the antenna, tuner, and radio 
as a combination of impedances at the **unwanted** signal 
frequency that determine the real attenuation.not how it 
acts into 50-ohm loads from infinite bandwidth 50-ohm 
sources found in models.

Anyway, the advantage I'm talking about is that when 
properly adjusted, a link-coupled tuner acts as a high-pass 
filter. This means that it provides additional rejection of 
AM broadcast stations in the 530 - 1710 kHz band. This is 
really important to many hams, particularly when they live 
close to one of these high-powered transmitters which are 
always on and have plenty of potential for causing problems 
in the receiver. 

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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Bill NY9H
It's up on the website ,  time to order


bill 
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Bill NY9H
ooppsnow i can't find it ,sri


bill

At 08:23 AM 4/15/2010, Bill  NY9H wrote:
It's up on the website ,  time to order


bill
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

Elecraft have sent an e-mail to all of those on their P3 waiting 
list with an order link.  Since the P3 is not on the order form 
and does not have any other link (that I an find) from the web 
page, I will not repost the link from the e-mail.  

However, if you want to be among the first on your block to have a 
P3, I suggest contacting Elecraft by e-mail (sa...@elecraft.com),  
phone or fax. 

The e-mail sets the initial price at $699.95 with first shipments 
around July 15, 2010. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
  

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill NY9H
 Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 8:29 AM
 To: Elecraft Reflector
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3 
 
 
 ooppsnow i can't find it ,sri
 
 
 bill
 
 At 08:23 AM 4/15/2010, Bill  NY9H wrote:
 It's up on the website ,  time to order
 
 
 bill
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_p3.htm

Please use the link above to order instead of via the phone. If everyone 
calls today our sales staff will be in big trouble :-)

We're just completing building the complete P3 web page now and will 
have more info up later today.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ

_..._


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill NY9H
 Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 8:29 AM
 To: Elecraft Reflector
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3 


 ooppsnow i can't find it ,sri


 bill

 At 08:23 AM 4/15/2010, Bill  NY9H wrote:
 
 It's up on the website ,  time to order


 bill
   
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread David Lankshear
Did you see a price, Bill?

73 DaveL
On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 05:27:08 -0700 Bill NY9H wrote:

ooppsnow i can't find it ,sri

bill

At 08:23 AM 4/15/2010, Bill  NY9H wrote:
It's up on the website ,  time to order


bill

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Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!

2010-04-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

This is the all knobs to the right syndrome.  It just does not sink 
into some minds that 100 watts is about the maximum that can be realized 
from a typical automotive battery voltage of 13.8 volts without 
running into unacceptable IMD regions.

I certainly don't know how to counter it.  There are so many hams who 
try to squeeze every last ounce of power from whatever transceiver thay 
may be using that it amazes me.  Some will even complain endlessly about 
all the bad signals on the air while cranking their power control to the 
maximum and putting out a signal that is as bad or worse than those they 
are complaining about.  I just don't understand the logic because it 
certainly is not logical.

73,
Don W3FPR


Tom W8JI wrote:
  On SSB it isn't so much the folks on ESSB, although we 
 have a few of those
 here also unfortunately, but rather the poorly adjusted 1KW 
 plus amplifierrs
 and badly adjusted audio that causes me to screw up my nose 
 and do a quick
 QSY..(:-))

 If we are every going to fix things we need to honestly 
 discuss the real problems.

 I have been doing a survey of ops on 20 and 40 meters with 
 very bad signals, and nearly all the nasty signals were not 
 high power. Most, after I broke in for a friendly chat, we 
 running small amps and just mistuning or overdriving them. 
 A significant number had peaked their radios up and were 
 running a bit more output from a 100 watt radio. As a matter 
 of fact a contestor who brought his FT1000MP's to me had his 
 100 watt radios screwed up to 130-140 watts, so this may be 
 a more common practice then we think. I lowered his radios 
 to 100 watts, and after a while when the radios came back 
 for another update they were back up to 130-140 watts again. 
 At that power level the radios had IM3 in the -20 dB PEP 
 range, and products out to the 17th order were still strong.

 For all those intent on boosting low power radios with a 
 cheap external PA, you can see measurements here:
 http://www.w8ji.com/rm_hla-150_test.htm

 The very best the RM Italy amp gets on *any band at any 
 power* is about like a FT1000MP on the very WORSE band for 
 the MP.

 There is no convincing people that our 100 watt radios at 
 100 watts are barely acceptable as is, and that all these 
 little tricks that give another 1-2 dB more power can 
 increase splatter 15 dB or more. Worse yet, those cheap 
 illegal amplifiers that make 10-watt radios into 100 watters 
 are going to be our undoing.

   
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Eric, can you remind us what is required in the K3 to run the P3, I have an 
original KXV3
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
Accuracy Transcends Speed

On 15 Apr 2010, at 14:44, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:

 http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_p3.htm
 
 Please use the link above to order instead of via the phone. If everyone 
 calls today our sales staff will be in big trouble :-)
 
 We're just completing building the complete P3 web page now and will 
 have more info up later today.
 
 73, Eric  WA6HHQ
 
 _..._
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill NY9H
 Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 8:29 AM
 To: Elecraft Reflector
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3 
 
 
 ooppsnow i can't find it ,sri
 
 
 bill
 
 At 08:23 AM 4/15/2010, Bill  NY9H wrote:
 
 It's up on the website ,  time to order
 
 
 bill
 
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
The earlier KXV3 is fine for the P3.(The KXV3a added internal 
transverter connections for the K144XV).

No other options are required.

73, Eric

_..._



David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
 Eric, can you remind us what is required in the K3 to run the P3, I have an 
 original KXV3
 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
   
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[Elecraft] K3 ATU TUNE per band only?

2010-04-15 Thread Jorge Diez - CX6VM
Hello,

Actually ATU TUNE is configured per band. Is there any option to have it OFF
in all bands and not to be remembered?

Something like SPLT SV (yes/no) for the SPLIT mode. But I couldn´t find the
same for ATU TUNE.

Thanks,
Jorge
CX6VM
 

-Mensaje original-
De: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] En nombre de Ted Roycraft
Enviado el: Miércoles, 07 de Abril de 2010 01:11 p.m.
Para: Richard Zwirko
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Split option idea

That option to save the split state per band is already there.  Turn  
SPLT SV to YES.

73, Ted, W2ZK

On 4/7/2010 12:01 PM, Richard Zwirko wrote:
 I wonder what other K3 users think about having this SPLIT option
available
 on the K3. Like many K3 users,  chase DX stations and DXpeditions. Many of
 them working split, listening on a different frequency. With many radios
 that I have used, when a band switch is made, not only are both the 'A'
and
 'B' VFO FREQUENCIES stored for each band, but they also retain the SPLIT
 /NON-SPLIT conditions for that band. When chasing multiple DX stations,
 often switching between between bands, I have to remember to hold in the
 SPLIT button each time I change between bands. If I forget, I get
'reminded'
 by the KHz Cops. Am I the only one?

 Would it be possible to allow K3 users to have the capability of
retaining
 the SPLIT condition on each band, if desired, with a menu option?

 If there is concern about accidentally going back to a band and forgetting
 that the radio is still in the split mode, how about having a blinking
SPLIT
 icon?  I know that the blinking SPLIT icon is used to warn of the 2 VFOs
 being set to different modes and that the yellow LED is on when there is a
 difference between RX and TX frequencies. How about the idea of the SPLIT
 icon blinking when the K3 is in the SPLIT mode on instead.

 Thoughts/Comments?

 73,
 Rich - K1HTV
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Bill W4ZV


Eric Swartz -WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
 
 The earlier KXV3 is fine for the P3.(The KXV3a added internal 
 transverter connections for the K144XV).
 
 No other options are required.
 

But you probably should do the IF OUT mod if you haven't yet done so:

http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/IF_Output_Buffer_Gain_Mod_Rev_A.pdf

This modification increases the signal level at the I.F. output by more
than 10 dB. It requires changing one
easily-accessible resistor on the K3’s main RF board with either another
surface mount device (SMD) or a leaded 1/8 watt resistor. A kit containing
both an SMD and leaded resistor is available from Elecraft: K3IOBUFFKT.

This change has been incorporated into all new K3’s beginning in September
2009.

73,  Bill

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/OT-Antenna-Tuners-one-more-reason-tp4905802p4907763.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ATU TUNE per band only?

2010-04-15 Thread Jorge Diez - CX6VM
Ok Greg,

What I want is for example:

I am in 40 mts with ATU ON, I move to other bands and then return to 40 mts
and want to have ATU in bypass. I don´t want K3 to remember that ATU was ON
in this band. 

Maybe is an option to say yes/no to remember this point?

Thanks,
Jorge
CX6VM


-Mensaje original-
De: Greg - AB7R [mailto:a...@cablespeed.com] 
Enviado el: Jueves, 15 de Abril de 2010 11:01 a.m.
Para: 'Jorge Diez - CX6VM'
Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ATU TUNE per band only?

Jorge,



Just set the ATU to Bypass on the bands (all if that's what you want) and it
will 

remember that setting next time you go back to it.



-

73,

Greg - AB7R

Whidbey Island WA

NA-065





On Thu Apr 15  6:58 , 'Jorge Diez - CX6VM' cx6vm.jo...@adinet.com.uy sent:



Hello,



Actually ATU TUNE is configured per band. Is there any option to have it
OFF

in all bands and not to be remembered?



Something like SPLT SV (yes/no) for the SPLIT mode. But I couldn´t find the

same for ATU TUNE.



Thanks,

Jorge

CX6VM

 



-Mensaje original-

De: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net

[elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net','','','')elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.
net] En 

nombre de Ted Roycraft

Enviado el: Miércoles, 07 de Abril de 2010 01:11 p.m.

Para: Richard Zwirko

CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Split option idea



That option to save the split state per band is already there.  Turn  

SPLT SV to YES.



73, Ted, W2ZK



On 4/7/2010 12:01 PM, Richard Zwirko wrote:

 I wonder what other K3 users think about having this SPLIT option

available

 on the K3. Like many K3 users,  chase DX stations and DXpeditions. Many
of

 them working split, listening on a different frequency. With many radios

 that I have used, when a band switch is made, not only are both the 'A'

and

 'B' VFO FREQUENCIES stored for each band, but they also retain the SPLIT

 /NON-SPLIT conditions for that band. When chasing multiple DX stations,

 often switching between between bands, I have to remember to hold in the

 SPLIT button each time I change between bands. If I forget, I get

'reminded'

 by the KHz Cops. Am I the only one?



 Would it be possible to allow K3 users to have the capability of

retaining

 the SPLIT condition on each band, if desired, with a menu option?



 If there is concern about accidentally going back to a band and
forgetting

 that the radio is still in the split mode, how about having a blinking

SPLIT

 icon?  I know that the blinking SPLIT icon is used to warn of the 2 VFOs

 being set to different modes and that the yellow LED is on when there is
a

 difference between RX and TX frequencies. How about the idea of the SPLIT

 icon blinking when the K3 is in the SPLIT mode on instead.



 Thoughts/Comments?



 73,

 Rich - K1HTV

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Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!

2010-04-15 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 For all those intent on boosting low power radios with a 
 cheap external PA, you can see measurements here: 
 http://www.w8ji.com/rm_hla-150_test.htm
 
 The very best the RM Italy amp gets on *any band at any 
 power* is about like a FT1000MP on the very WORSE band for 
 the MP.

If you had not documented that the transistors were only rated 
for 70W PEP, I would have thought that one of the push-pull pair 
was open with those results.  I don't know what transistors 
are but those IM plots would suggest the bias is incorrect - 
which might be logical if RM Italia are using an undersized 
heatsink. 

 There is no convincing people that our 100 watt radios at 
 100 watts are barely acceptable as is, and that all these 
 little tricks that give another 1-2 dB more power can 
 increase splatter 15 dB or more. Worse yet, those cheap 
 illegal amplifiers that make 10-watt radios into 100 watters 
 are going to be our undoing.

Very true ... we would be better off with 48V transistors 
with power levels below 200W PEP.  There are several devices 
capable of 3rd and 5th order IMD better than -40 dB at that 
power level. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom W8JI
 Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 7:11 AM
 To: Gary Gregory; lstavenhagen
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!
 
 
  On SSB it isn't so much the folks on ESSB, although we 
 have a few of those
 here also unfortunately, but rather the poorly adjusted 1KW 
 plus amplifierrs
 and badly adjusted audio that causes me to screw up my nose 
 and do a quick
 QSY..(:-))
 
 If we are every going to fix things we need to honestly 
 discuss the real problems.
 
 I have been doing a survey of ops on 20 and 40 meters with 
 very bad signals, and nearly all the nasty signals were not 
 high power. Most, after I broke in for a friendly chat, we 
 running small amps and just mistuning or overdriving them. 
 A significant number had peaked their radios up and were 
 running a bit more output from a 100 watt radio. As a matter 
 of fact a contestor who brought his FT1000MP's to me had his 
 100 watt radios screwed up to 130-140 watts, so this may be 
 a more common practice then we think. I lowered his radios 
 to 100 watts, and after a while when the radios came back 
 for another update they were back up to 130-140 watts again. 
 At that power level the radios had IM3 in the -20 dB PEP 
 range, and products out to the 17th order were still strong.
 
 For all those intent on boosting low power radios with a 
 cheap external PA, you can see measurements here: 
 http://www.w8ji.com/rm_hla-150_test.htm
 
 The very best the RM Italy amp gets on *any band at any 
 power* is about like a FT1000MP on the very WORSE band for 
 the MP.
 
 There is no convincing people that our 100 watt radios at 
 100 watts are barely acceptable as is, and that all these 
 little tricks that give another 1-2 dB more power can 
 increase splatter 15 dB or more. Worse yet, those cheap 
 illegal amplifiers that make 10-watt radios into 100 watters 
 are going to be our undoing.
 
 73 Tom 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Good point, since I'm paying for shipping, I might as well order any mod kits I 
have yet got - applying them would be a good idea - including the ones I've had 
for a year :-(
-- 
Study without desire spoils the memory, and it retains nothing that it takes 
in.  -- Leonardo da Vinci

On 15 Apr 2010, at 15:16, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 
 
 Eric Swartz -WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
 
 The earlier KXV3 is fine for the P3.(The KXV3a added internal 
 transverter connections for the K144XV).
 
 No other options are required.
 
 
 But you probably should do the IF OUT mod if you haven't yet done so:
 
 http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/IF_Output_Buffer_Gain_Mod_Rev_A.pdf
 
 This modification increases the signal level at the I.F. output by more
 than 10 dB. It requires changing one
 easily-accessible resistor on the K3’s main RF board with either another
 surface mount device (SMD) or a leaded 1/8 watt resistor. A kit containing
 both an SMD and leaded resistor is available from Elecraft: K3IOBUFFKT.
 
 This change has been incorporated into all new K3’s beginning in September
 2009.
 
 73,  Bill
 
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/OT-Antenna-Tuners-one-more-reason-tp4905802p4907763.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Trevor Smithers
I assume the item shown on the order page is for the pre built unit - will you 
be offering a kit 
version ?

73
Trevor G0KTN

 Original Message 

http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_p3.htm

Please use the link above to order instead of via the phone. If everyone 
calls today our sales staff will be in big trouble :-)

We're just completing building the complete P3 web page now and will 
have more info up later today.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ
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[Elecraft] [K3] K3DSPUPGD or K3DSPLPF

2010-04-15 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Since I'm having the P3 shipped, I might as well have some other outstanding 
mods shipped too.

I've read the instructions for K3DSPLPF and don't think I'd have any trouble 
making that mod.

I'd like some advice from those that have done or considered it, is it worth 
getting the K3DSPUPGD instead, does it give me anything that the K3DSPLPF does 
not?

I also find I have a RXAMDKT, but don't see that on the web site - what is that 
mod?

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
It is almost impossible to carry the torch of truth through a crowd without
singeing somebody's beard. -George Christopher Lichtenberg, scientist and
philosopher (1742-1799)

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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
ah - I hope that's the kit!

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
Success is the ability to go from failure to failure without losing your 
enthusiasm. - Winston Churchill (1874 - 1965).

On 15 Apr 2010, at 15:48, Trevor Smithers wrote:

 I assume the item shown on the order page is for the pre built unit - will 
 you be offering a kit 
 version ?
 
 73
 Trevor G0KTN
 
  Original Message 
 
 http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_p3.htm
 
 Please use the link above to order instead of via the phone. If everyone 
 calls today our sales staff will be in big trouble :-)
 
 We're just completing building the complete P3 web page now and will 
 have more info up later today.
 
 73, Eric  WA6HHQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!

2010-04-15 Thread Wes Stewart
I don't know how we got trom Ten Tec to here but...

If you follow this forum you might remember that I have complained bitterly 
about the lousy IMD performance of modern transceivers.  I have, only slightly 
tongue-in-cheek, suggested that there should be a transceiver figure of merit 
that balanced receiver performance against transmitter performance by measuring 
the former while using a pair of the latter as the signal generators.

That said, I do not blame the operator who after buying a 100-watt radio, 
sees nothing wrong with actually running it at 100 watts, if he's running it at 
rated supply voltage.  This does not excuse the ops, some who have said this 
here, The K3 works fine a 11V input.

But when run at rated supply voltage if the transmitter can't deliver decent 
IMD performance at 100 watts then I fault the manufacturer for calling it a 
100-watt radio.  I guess 100 is such a nice round number that it is the target, 
but I remember lots of older radios that were 75-watt and no one seem to have 
heartache over that.

For the life of me I can't understand why radios continue to be designed around 
an automobile storage battery when fewer than 1% will ever operate in a mobile 
environment.

IMHO, there are simple too many design compromises necessary when designing for 
12 volts and/or low receiver current consumption.

Wes  N7WS

--- On Thu, 4/15/10, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Thursday, April 15, 2010, 7:48 AM
 Tom,
 
 This is the all knobs to the right syndrome.  It
 just does not sink 
 into some minds that 100 watts is about the maximum that
 can be realized 
 from a typical automotive battery voltage of 13.8 volts
 without 
 running into unacceptable IMD regions.
 
 I certainly don't know how to counter it.  There are
 so many hams who 
 try to squeeze every last ounce of power from whatever
 transceiver thay 
 may be using that it amazes me.  Some will even
 complain endlessly about 
 all the bad signals on the air while cranking their power
 control to the 
 maximum and putting out a signal that is as bad or worse
 than those they 
 are complaining about.  I just don't understand the
 logic because it 
 certainly is not logical.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 
 Tom W8JI wrote:
   On SSB it isn't so much the folks on ESSB,
 although we 
  have a few of those
  here also unfortunately, but rather the poorly
 adjusted 1KW 
  plus amplifierrs
  and badly adjusted audio that causes me to screw up my
 nose 
  and do a quick
  QSY..(:-))
 
  If we are every going to fix things we need to
 honestly 
  discuss the real problems.
 
  I have been doing a survey of ops on 20 and 40 meters
 with 
  very bad signals, and nearly all the nasty signals
 were not 
  high power. Most, after I broke in for a friendly
 chat, we 
  running small amps and just mistuning or overdriving
 them. 
  A significant number had peaked their radios up and
 were 
  running a bit more output from a 100 watt radio. As a
 matter 
  of fact a contestor who brought his FT1000MP's to me
 had his 
  100 watt radios screwed up to 130-140 watts, so this
 may be 
  a more common practice then we think. I lowered his
 radios 
  to 100 watts, and after a while when the radios came
 back 
  for another update they were back up to 130-140 watts
 again. 
  At that power level the radios had IM3 in the -20 dB
 PEP 
  range, and products out to the 17th order were still
 strong.
 
  For all those intent on boosting low power radios with
 a 
  cheap external PA, you can see measurements here:
  http://www.w8ji.com/rm_hla-150_test.htm
 
  The very best the RM Italy amp gets on *any band at
 any 
  power* is about like a FT1000MP on the very WORSE band
 for 
  the MP.
 
  There is no convincing people that our 100 watt radios
 at 
  100 watts are barely acceptable as is, and that all
 these 
  little tricks that give another 1-2 dB more power can
 
  increase splatter 15 dB or more. Worse yet, those
 cheap 
  illegal amplifiers that make 10-watt radios into 100
 watters 
  are going to be our undoing.
 
    
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT]: Antenna Tuners - one more reason

2010-04-15 Thread Wes Stewart
Antenna tuners have their place---just not in my shack.  That said, your tuner 
is actually a band-pass filter whose performance as a filter is dependent on 
what it's matching.

If you really need a high-pass filter to correct an issue, then I think that 
you should use a purpose-built filter.

Just my HO.

Wes  N7WS

--- On Thu, 4/15/10, Al Lorona alor...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 From: Al Lorona alor...@sbcglobal.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] [OT]: Antenna Tuners - one more reason
 To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Thursday, April 15, 2010, 12:08 AM
 There are many hams who dislike
 antenna tuners and will go to great lengths to avoid having
 to use one, including putting up multiple antennas, trimming
 antennas inch by inch, and using elaborate matching schemes
 involving transmission lines of various lengths and Zo.
 
 Besides the tremendous freedom a good antenna tuner gives
 you with regard to the length of your antenna, length of
 your feedline, type of feedline, and choice of operating
 frequency, there is one other advantage that many often
 forget and which I rarely hear explained.
 
 I use a homebrew link-coupled balanced tuner. It's getting
 harder to find a commercially-built link-coupled unit, but
 the most famous example is the good old Johnson Matchbox
 which most folks are familiar with.
 
 Anyway, the advantage I'm talking about is that when
 properly adjusted, a link-coupled tuner acts as a high-pass
 filter. This means that it provides additional rejection of
 AM broadcast stations in the 530 - 1710 kHz band. This
 is really important to many hams, particularly when they
 live close to one of these high-powered transmitters which
 are always on and have plenty of potential for causing
 problems in the receiver.
 
 I have run simulations of my particular tuner (which is not
 exactly like a Johnson) which show that I enjoy a minimum of
 -30 dB of rejection at 1710 kHz (the closest end of the
 broadcast band and thus, the worst case) when I am tuned up
 on 80 meters, and -50 dB when I'm tuned on 40 meters. I have
 confirmed these numbers with measurements.
 
 I have troublemakers at 1110 and 1300 kHz, both 50
 kW only about 1.5 miles away. I believe they would cause
 me some problems if I did not have this tuner in the line
 which knocks them down by 42 and 38 dB, respectively,
 when I am operating on 80 meters. When you knock down a 50
 kW signal by 40 dB, it looks like a mere 5 W signal!
 
 So the next time someone complains about lossy tuners, or
 having to twirl dials, remind them that there is this
 hidden benefit to using a good old-fashioned,
 link-coupled tuner.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ATU TUNE per band only?

2010-04-15 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
K3 remembers whether ATU is engaged or bypassed per ANT1/ANT2 per
band, and remembers L/C settings per band.  You are asking it
specifically to return to bypass when you leave a band?

It's not like you have to do some complicated thing down in the menus.
 Front panel button HOLD ATU TUNE toggles from bypassed to engaged,
and the current state is plainly shown (ATU showing on the display
means it's engaged).  Some have asked for ATU to drop out if an amp is
in-line, but I've not heard of that being taken up.  Current K3
behavior is pretty standard.

73, Guy.

On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 10:18 AM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM
cx6vm.jo...@adinet.com.uy wrote:
 Ok Greg,

 What I want is for example:

 I am in 40 mts with ATU ON, I move to other bands and then return to 40 mts
 and want to have ATU in bypass. I don´t want K3 to remember that ATU was ON
 in this band.

 Maybe is an option to say yes/no to remember this point?
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Phil Hystad
I ordered mine -- I don't care whether it is a kit or not-a-kit.  I wanted the 
P3.

On Apr 15, 2010, at 8:15 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

 ah - I hope that's the kit!
 
 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
 Success is the ability to go from failure to failure without losing your 
 enthusiasm. - Winston Churchill (1874 - 1965).
 
 On 15 Apr 2010, at 15:48, Trevor Smithers wrote:
 
 I assume the item shown on the order page is for the pre built unit - will 
 you be offering a kit 
 version ?
 
 73
 Trevor G0KTN
 
  Original Message 
 
 http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_p3.htm
 
 Please use the link above to order instead of via the phone. If everyone 
 calls today our sales staff will be in big trouble :-)
 
 We're just completing building the complete P3 web page now and will 
 have more info up later today.
 
 73, Eric  WA6HHQ
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
well I ordered too, but I really want the kit, both for the fun and 
understanding and for the reduced cost - no custom charges on a kit
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
One can pay back the loan of gold, but one dies forever in debt to those
who are kind. -Malayan Proverb

On 15 Apr 2010, at 16:58, Phil Hystad wrote:

 I ordered mine -- I don't care whether it is a kit or not-a-kit.  I wanted 
 the P3.
 
 On Apr 15, 2010, at 8:15 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
 
 ah - I hope that's the kit!
 
 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
 Success is the ability to go from failure to failure without losing your 
 enthusiasm. - Winston Churchill (1874 - 1965).
 
 On 15 Apr 2010, at 15:48, Trevor Smithers wrote:
 
 I assume the item shown on the order page is for the pre built unit - will 
 you be offering a kit 
 version ?
 
 73
 Trevor G0KTN
 
  Original Message 
 
 http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_p3.htm
 
 Please use the link above to order instead of via the phone. If everyone 
 calls today our sales staff will be in big trouble :-)
 
 We're just completing building the complete P3 web page now and will 
 have more info up later today.
 
 73, Eric  WA6HHQ
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[Elecraft] [elecraft] k2 alignment testing

2010-04-15 Thread Dickinson, Joe
Current status from n0xdb.

I have alignment phase 2 working for the most part (don't' have an antenna yet 
so skipped that part for the moment).

Alignment phase 1 still no tone.  I tried this alignment before, and resoldered 
the phone jack, but am not sure if it's making a solid connection because the 
leads don't go through the board, they just appear at the holes.

I was hearing some static, now I don't hear jack.

I have a 60ohm headphones (it calls for 30ohm) not sure if this is a big deal.

What should I check to verify sound going into or out of my phone jack?
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3DSPUPGD or K3DSPLPF

2010-04-15 Thread Fred Jensen
David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

 I also find I have a RXAMDKT, but don't see that on the web site -
 what is that mod?

You have an Elecraft mod but don't know what it is for?  I have a little 
2-tone generator unbuilt mini-kit.  I would build it if I could find it.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2010 Cal QSO Party 2-3 Oct 2010
- www.cqp.org


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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Oops - I made a mistake getting this up quickly last night.  The P3 
listed on the order form was the kit version.

I've now corrected the order form and added the -F assembled version 
($50 more).

http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_p3.htm

If you placed an order and want to change it to a -F please email 
sa...@elecraft.com to let them know, with your order confirmation number 
copied in the email. That will help us quickly match it with your order.

Just moving too fast here! (We're also working hard to get ready to head 
out to the Visalia International DX Convention tonight.)

73, Eric   WA6HHQ


On 4/15/2010 7:48 AM, Trevor Smithers wrote:
 I assume the item shown on the order page is for the pre built unit - will 
 you be offering a kit
 version ?

 73
 Trevor G0KTN


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Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!

2010-04-15 Thread Phil Kane
On 4/15/2010 8:25 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:

 For the life of me I can't understand why radios continue to be
 designed around an automobile storage battery when fewer than 1%
 will ever operate in a mobile environment.

  For those of us who insist that our communications gear operate
  when the mains power goes off, the 12V DC battery system is the
  most reasonable backup.  Few if any of us have the resources to
  install a commercial 48V battery system  - which is the
  commercial standard currently - or the 40 KW backup generator
  or solar array which is what is needed (but don't have) to run
  my house off the grid.

  For communications backup purposes we don't use automobile
  storage batteries which are designed for a large current draw
  for a short time (engine cranking) and relatively little current
  draw afterward while the alternator picks up the load.  Deep-cycle
  totally sealed batteries are the standard for communication
  backup systems of this capacity.

  My engineering firm designs commercial communication sites
  primarily for the public safety community and such backup
  power systems are a very important part of what we do for our
  clients.

--  73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Wes Stewart
Although I had a P3 in my hand a month ago and saw it operate (briefly) before 
I order one, I would like to see a manual and get some idea of what it brings 
to the table.

ps. Did you add that steel plate inside that I recommended to keep it from 
skidding off the table when I push a button and that makes the XYL think that 
there really is something inside worth $700? :-)

--- On Thu, 4/15/10, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft e...@elecraft.com wrote:

 From: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft e...@elecraft.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3   
 To: tsmith...@cix.co.uk
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Thursday, April 15, 2010, 11:04 AM
 Oops - I made a mistake getting this
 up quickly last night.  The P3 
 listed on the order form was the kit version.
 
 I've now corrected the order form and added the -F
 assembled version 
 ($50 more).
 
 http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_p3.htm
 
 If you placed an order and want to change it to a -F please
 email 
 sa...@elecraft.com
 to let them know, with your order confirmation number 
 copied in the email. That will help us quickly match it
 with your order.
 
 Just moving too fast here! (We're also working hard to get
 ready to head 
 out to the Visalia International DX Convention tonight.)
 
 73, Eric   WA6HHQ
 
 
 On 4/15/2010 7:48 AM, Trevor Smithers wrote:
  I assume the item shown on the order page is for the
 pre built unit - will you be offering a kit
  version ?
 
  73
  Trevor G0KTN
 
     
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[Elecraft] How is the P3 Connected to the K3?

2010-04-15 Thread rmthorne

I'm curious how the P3 is connected to the K3.  Currently I have the RS-232 and 
the 15pin Accessory port connected to my Microham Microkeyer II.  Will the P3 
need the same connections? if so is there a way to get the P3 and MicrokeyerII 
to coexist.

Rich - N5ZC
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Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!

2010-04-15 Thread Wes Stewart
I think I've mentioned this here before, but I actually *do* have a battery 
backup system in my shack and also operate using 12V in my travel trailer.  The 
home system has a 90AH 12V AGM battery, continually charged with a HB smart 
charger and the trailer uses a pair of deep-cycle RV batteries with a similar 
charger.  An EU2000 Honda is also used if necessary.

That said, in both cases I use a boost regulator to maintain a minimum of 13.8V 
AT THE K2 INPUT.  Since, IMHO, a boost regulator is always a good idea, it 
could just as well boost to 24 or 30 or whatever voltage a cleaner transceiver 
would require.

Wes  N7WS

--- On Thu, 4/15/10, Phil Kane k2...@kanafi.org wrote:

 From: Phil Kane k2...@kanafi.org
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!
 To: Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com
 Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Thursday, April 15, 2010, 11:56 AM
 On 4/15/2010 8:25 AM, Wes Stewart
 wrote:
 
  For the life of me I can't understand why radios
 continue to be
  designed around an automobile storage battery when
 fewer than 1%
  will ever operate in a mobile environment.
 
   For those of us who insist that our communications
 gear operate
   when the mains power goes off, the 12V DC battery
 system is the
   most reasonable backup.  Few if any of us have
 the resources to
   install a commercial 48V battery system  -
 which is the
   commercial standard currently - or the 40 KW backup
 generator
   or solar array which is what is needed (but don't
 have) to run
   my house off the grid.
 
   For communications backup purposes we don't use
 automobile
   storage batteries which are designed for a large
 current draw
   for a short time (engine cranking) and relatively
 little current
   draw afterward while the alternator picks up the
 load.  Deep-cycle
   totally sealed batteries are the standard for
 communication
   backup systems of this capacity.
 
   My engineering firm designs commercial communication
 sites
   primarily for the public safety community and such
 backup
   power systems are a very important part of what we
 do for our
   clients.
 
 --  73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
     Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
 
 


  
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Ruben Navarro Huedo
It is also important for me, read the manual.
I can't test it before order, then i need read the manual.
My order will wait until it.


El 15/04/2010 19:57, Wes Stewart escribió:
 Although I had a P3 in my hand a month ago and saw it operate (briefly) 
 before I order one, I would like to see a manual and get some idea of what it 
 brings to the table.

 ps. Did you add that steel plate inside that I recommended to keep it from 
 skidding off the table when I push a button and that makes the XYL think that 
 there really is something inside worth $700? :-)

 --- On Thu, 4/15/10, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecrafte...@elecraft.com  wrote:


-- 
Rubén Navarro Huedo - EA5BZ
http://www.palotes.com
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Re: [Elecraft] How is the P3 Connected to the K3?

2010-04-15 Thread Ruben Navarro Huedo
i think it is connect to the IF OUT.
I am using also the rs-232.
Needs the p3 also the rs232?

El 15/04/2010 20:04, rmtho...@suddenlink.net escribió:

 I'm curious how the P3 is connected to the K3.  Currently I have the RS-232 
 and the 15pin Accessory port connected to my Microham Microkeyer II.  Will 
 the P3 need the same connections? if so is there a way to get the P3 and 
 MicrokeyerII to coexist.

 Rich - N5ZC

-- 
Rubén Navarro Huedo - EA5BZ
http://www.palotes.com
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Re: [Elecraft] How is the P3 Connected to the K3?

2010-04-15 Thread Dick Dievendorff
There are three connections between the P3 and your K3. The necessary cables
are supplied.

1) A +12V cable connects between the P3 and the RCA +12V connector on the
back of the K3.
2) A short coaxial cable with BNC connectors connects to the IF OUT
connector on the KXV3 or KXV3A of your K3.
3) A short RS-232 cable connects between the P3 and the DB-9 RS-232
connector on the back of your K3.

Your PC or microHAM RS-232 connector plugs into the DB-9 connector on the
P3. The P3 passes computer-initiated commands and their responses to/from
your K3. The P3 also communicates with the K3 over this same serial
connection.  The PC/microHAM device sees the combination as a K3.

Note that a computer is *not* required to operate the P3, except for
firmware loading.

However if you wish to connect a computer to the K3/P3 combination, it goes
onto the back of the P3.  

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
rmtho...@suddenlink.net
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 11:04 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] How is the P3 Connected to the K3?


I'm curious how the P3 is connected to the K3.  Currently I have the RS-232
and the 15pin Accessory port connected to my Microham Microkeyer II.  Will
the P3 need the same connections? if so is there a way to get the P3 and
MicrokeyerII to coexist.

Rich - N5ZC
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
OTOH, this means that I don't need to be in Visalia by noon on Friday.

I had a strong feeling that the orders would start there (just like
the K3, two years ago).  I was slightly wrong.

I think there's been enough discussion on this list to obviate the
necessity to read the manual before ordering.  And, of course, some
people will never read the fine manual.

73, doug

   Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:20:04 +0200
   From: Ruben Navarro Huedo runa...@gmail.com

   It is also important for me, read the manual.
   I can't test it before order, then i need read the manual.
   My order will wait until it.


   El 15/04/2010 19:57, Wes Stewart escribió:  Although I had a P3 in
   my hand a month ago and saw it operate (briefly) before I order
   one, I would like to see a manual and get some idea of what it
   brings to the table.
   
ps. Did you add that steel plate inside that I recommended to
keep it from skidding off the table when I push a button and that
makes the XYL think that there really is something inside worth
$700? :-)
   
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Re: [Elecraft] How is the P3 Connected to the K3?

2010-04-15 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Out of interest, can you perform a K3 update through the P3?
-- 
The secret of life is honesty and fair dealing. If you can fake that,
you've got it made. -Groucho Marx

On 15 Apr 2010, at 19:24, Dick Dievendorff wrote:

 There are three connections between the P3 and your K3. The necessary cables
 are supplied.
 
 1) A +12V cable connects between the P3 and the RCA +12V connector on the
 back of the K3.
 2) A short coaxial cable with BNC connectors connects to the IF OUT
 connector on the KXV3 or KXV3A of your K3.
 3) A short RS-232 cable connects between the P3 and the DB-9 RS-232
 connector on the back of your K3.
 
 Your PC or microHAM RS-232 connector plugs into the DB-9 connector on the
 P3. The P3 passes computer-initiated commands and their responses to/from
 your K3. The P3 also communicates with the K3 over this same serial
 connection.  The PC/microHAM device sees the combination as a K3.
 
 Note that a computer is *not* required to operate the P3, except for
 firmware loading.
 
 However if you wish to connect a computer to the K3/P3 combination, it goes
 onto the back of the P3.  
 

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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Wayne Burdick
Wes, N7WS, wrote:

 Did you add that steel plate inside that I recommended
 to keep it from skidding off the table when I push a button
 and that makes the XYL think that there really is something inside  
 worth $700? :-)

Actually, yes :)

The P3 enclosure is being fabricated entirely from corrosion-resistant  
steel (plated before painting) rather than aluminum. Production and  
field test units will weigh about twice as much as the prototype you  
tried out (about 5 pounds).

Besides making the unit heavy enough to not slide when you push the  
buttons, the steel enclosure will reduce EMI generally -- in or out.  
The use of steel also makes the enclosure very strong, so that you  
could, if you wanted, put a heavy 20 A linear power supply inside to  
power the K3, etc. While we don't have any current plan to offer an  
optional internal power supply for the P3, some of us (including me)  
will be rolling our own. In my case it will free up some valuable desk  
space. (Anyone need a Samlex power supply? Pick-up only!)

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] 12 volt PA

2010-04-15 Thread David Gilbert

I don't find emergency backup to be a very compelling argument for 
sticking with a 12 volt PA design.  I don't see why it would require a 
commercial system to provide backup for a ham rig, and I don't think it 
would be significantly more expensive to string four smaller capacity 
batteries in series instead of one larger 12 volt battery.  Charging 
could be done at 48 volts, or at 12 volts with the batteries in parallel.

My guess is that the only reason we still see 12 volt rigs is because 
they make mobile and portable use more convenient, which of course was 
Elecraft's roots anyway.  Possibly even that will go away eventually ... 
the automotive manufactures have for some time been exploring higher 
voltage (42 volts or something like that if I remember correctly) 
systems because of the increasing current requirements (requiring 
heavier wiring) of today's expanding vehicle electronics.  That was 
actively being discussed a dozen years ago, though, so most likely the 
voltage overshoot issues (relays and motors have a lot of inductance) 
have proven difficult to overcome.

73,
Dave   AB7E



On 4/15/2010 10:56 AM, Phil Kane wrote:
 On 4/15/2010 8:25 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:


 For the life of me I can't understand why radios continue to be
 designed around an automobile storage battery when fewer than 1%
 will ever operate in a mobile environment.
  
For those of us who insist that our communications gear operate
when the mains power goes off, the 12V DC battery system is the
most reasonable backup.  Few if any of us have the resources to
install a commercial 48V battery system  - which is the
commercial standard currently - or the 40 KW backup generator
or solar array which is what is needed (but don't have) to run
my house off the grid.

For communications backup purposes we don't use automobile
storage batteries which are designed for a large current draw
for a short time (engine cranking) and relatively little current
draw afterward while the alternator picks up the load.  Deep-cycle
totally sealed batteries are the standard for communication
backup systems of this capacity.

My engineering firm designs commercial communication sites
primarily for the public safety community and such backup
power systems are a very important part of what we do for our
clients.

 --  73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
  Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

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Re: [Elecraft] How is the P3 Connected to the K3?

2010-04-15 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
The P3 connects to theK3 via two cables that are supplied with the P3. A 
BNC RF cable that connects to the IF Out on the KXV3 (or KXV3a), and a 
RS-232 cable that connects to the K3's RS-232 control port. The P3 has 
another RS-232 connector that then optionally goes to your PC via a 
direct connection or the KUSB cable.

A PC is not required as part of the P3's regular operation, except for 
downloading new P3, or K3, firmware.

All P3-K3 communication is hidden from the remote PC. All PC control / 
logging commands to the K3, and K3 responses to those commands, pass 
through unimpeded via the P3.

Basically the P3/K3 combination is transparent with no changes needed to 
your external PC control and logging programs. The pair looks identical 
to the stand-alone K3 from a PC interface standpoint.

73, Eric   WA6HHQ
---

On 4/15/2010 11:04 AM, rmtho...@suddenlink.net wrote:
 I'm curious how the P3 is connected to the K3.  Currently I have the RS-232 
 and the 15pin Accessory port connected to my Microham Microkeyer II.  Will 
 the P3 need the same connections? if so is there a way to get the P3 and 
 MicrokeyerII to coexist.

 Rich - N5ZC


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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
If you are strong enough to pick it up!

I think a number of us will be interested in a supply to fit in the P3, perhaps 
some circuits for those of us you can build, but not design would be good - 
dual mains voltage of course.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
The soul is the same in all living creatures, although the body is
different. -Hippocrates, physician (460-c.377 BCE)

On 15 Apr 2010, at 19:51, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 Pick-up only

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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
What dimension will be available for stuffing a power supply in the back?

On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 2:51 PM, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:
 Wes, N7WS, wrote:

 Did you add that steel plate inside that I recommended
 to keep it from skidding off the table when I push a button
 and that makes the XYL think that there really is something inside
 worth $700? :-)

 Actually, yes :)

 The P3 enclosure is being fabricated entirely from corrosion-resistant
 steel (plated before painting) rather than aluminum. Production and
 field test units will weigh about twice as much as the prototype you
 tried out (about 5 pounds).

 Besides making the unit heavy enough to not slide when you push the
 buttons, the steel enclosure will reduce EMI generally -- in or out.
 The use of steel also makes the enclosure very strong, so that you
 could, if you wanted, put a heavy 20 A linear power supply inside to
 power the K3, etc. While we don't have any current plan to offer an
 optional internal power supply for the P3, some of us (including me)
 will be rolling our own. In my case it will free up some valuable desk
 space. (Anyone need a Samlex power supply? Pick-up only!)

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!

2010-04-15 Thread Edward Cole
Joe,

Very interesting.  Not too surprising.

I am building a CCI HF 300w amplifier kit (Motorola Engineering 
Bulletin: EB-27A), that uses 28-volt transistors.  I bought a matched 
pair of the Toshiba equivalent for the MRF-422 (2SC2510 rated at 
150w/each; power gain = 12.2 dB).  IMD min (-30 dB) is at 85w.  The 
K3 will drive it possibly to 200w output (100w per 
transistor).  Running at 170w would probably be the cleanest 
level.  Table-I in the engineering bulletin shows Harmonic 
performance (2-30 MHz)
http://www.communication-concepts.com/eb27a.htm
http://www.communication-concepts.com/appnotes/EB27A300Sharp.pdf

If I like how the amplifier turns out, I may start building a few of 
these for the ham radio market.

Ed - KL7UW

--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:20:28 -0400
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!
To: 'Tom W8JI' w...@w8ji.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 85e31a466596414d860b7ac081725...@laptop
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii


  For all those intent on boosting low power radios with a
  cheap external PA, you can see measurements here:
  http://www.w8ji.com/rm_hla-150_test.htm
 
  The very best the RM Italy amp gets on *any band at any
  power* is about like a FT1000MP on the very WORSE band for
  the MP.

If you had not documented that the transistors were only rated
for 70W PEP, I would have thought that one of the push-pull pair
was open with those results.  I don't know what transistors
are but those IM plots would suggest the bias is incorrect -
which might be logical if RM Italia are using an undersized
heatsink.

  There is no convincing people that our 100 watt radios at
  100 watts are barely acceptable as is, and that all these
  little tricks that give another 1-2 dB more power can
  increase splatter 15 dB or more. Worse yet, those cheap
  illegal amplifiers that make 10-watt radios into 100 watters
  are going to be our undoing.

Very true ... we would be better off with 48V transistors
with power levels below 200W PEP.  There are several devices
capable of 3rd and 5th order IMD better than -40 dB at that
power level.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 144-600w, 432-100w, 1296-60w, 3400-fall 2010
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
== 

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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Paul

The earlier KXV3 is fine for the P3.(The KXV3a added internal
transverter connections for the K144XV).

No other options are required.

So the two parts required to have a working panadapter kit total $810? 

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[Elecraft] power

2010-04-15 Thread Dennis Watkins
Anybody know how much current the thing draws??

Dennis  W7JX
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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3

2010-04-15 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 So the two parts required to have a working panadapter kit 
 total $810? 

Since the P3 only uses the IF out, one could roll his own cable 
(TMP to BNC) and mount the jack on the empty panel. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of p...@n4lcd.com
 Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 2:53 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3 
 
 
 
 The earlier KXV3 is fine for the P3.(The KXV3a added internal
 transverter connections for the K144XV).
 
 No other options are required.
 
 So the two parts required to have a working panadapter kit 
 total $810? 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] power

2010-04-15 Thread Mark Bayern
 Anybody know how much current the thing draws??

Thing? Is that a bare K2, a fully tricked out (with DSP) K2/100? or ...

I you're looking for minimum current drain the K1 (QRP CW only) is a
good choice.


Mark  AD5SS



On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 2:26 PM, Dennis Watkins androm...@wildblue.net wrote:
 Anybody know how much current the thing draws??

 Dennis  W7JX
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Re: [Elecraft] power

2010-04-15 Thread Gary Hvizdak
On Thu Apr 15 at 1526 EDT Dennis Watkins (W7JX) wrote ...

Anybody know how much current the thing draws??

--

Dennis,

If that the thing you are referring to is the P3, FYI the P3 can be
powered from the K3's 12VDC switched power jack, which is rated at 500 mA.

73,
Gary  KI4GGX
K3 #2724

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Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!

2010-04-15 Thread Phil Kane
On 4/15/2010 11:14 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:

  [ System described - much like my own system ]

 That said, in both cases I use a boost regulator to maintain a
 minimum of 13.8V AT THE K2 INPUT.

  As do I.  I have two banks of circuit breakers on the 12V
  distribution system (I run 6 VHF/UHF transceivers and 5
  receivers in the comm center in addition to the K2) and I have
  a separate boost regulator for each bank.

 Since, IMHO, a boost regulator is always a good idea, it could
 just as well boost to 24 or 30 or whatever voltage a cleaner
 transceiver would require.

  Better to put the boost regulator inside the transceiver, as
  Motorola does in many of their high-power products.

  Memories of my conversion of a 6V Volkswagen Beetle to 12V
  many years ago, so I could finally get rid of the 6V-to-12V
  booster that was being overloaded as I added stuff in the
  vehicle that required 12V.  That was an interesting project.

--  73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

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Re: [Elecraft] 12 volt PA

2010-04-15 Thread Phil Kane
On 4/15/2010 11:51 AM, David Gilbert wrote:

 My guess is that the only reason we still see 12 volt rigs is because
 they make mobile and portable use more convenient, which of course was
 Elecraft's roots anyway.  Possibly even that will go away eventually ...
 the automotive manufactures have for some time been exploring higher
 voltage (42 volts or something like that if I remember correctly)
 systems because of the increasing current requirements (requiring
 heavier wiring) of today's expanding vehicle electronics.  That was
 actively being discussed a dozen years ago, though, so most likely the
 voltage overshoot issues (relays and motors have a lot of inductance)
 have proven difficult to overcome.

  Memories of my conversion of a 6V Volkswagen Beetle to 12V
  many years ago, so I could finally get rid of the 6V-to-12V
  booster that was being overloaded as I added stuff in the
  vehicle that required 12V.  That was an interesting project.

  In the last several years, commercial comm sites have gone to
  the telephone industry's 48 volt standard, with the major comm
  equipment manufacturers putting the 48V-to-12V down-converter
  as an integral part of their equipment or a needed accessory.
  The railroad industry has been at 72 volts down-converted to
  12V for ages.

  I for one am happy to stay with 12V on my K2 which usually runs
  at about 40 watts for data modes.

--  73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

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Re: [Elecraft] 12 volt PA

2010-04-15 Thread George A. Thornton
My understanding is that lower volt systems are preferred by electrical
safety codes because they pose less danger to human life. From what I
understand, the only way you could cause death from a 12 volt circuit is
if the short circuited path goes through the human heart.

That is why electrical safety codes demonstrate a preference for lower
volt systems in highly mobile uses such as motor vehicles.  
 
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Kane
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 1:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 12 volt PA

On 4/15/2010 11:51 AM, David Gilbert wrote:

 My guess is that the only reason we still see 12 volt rigs is because
 they make mobile and portable use more convenient, which of course was
 Elecraft's roots anyway.  Possibly even that will go away eventually
...
 the automotive manufactures have for some time been exploring higher
 voltage (42 volts or something like that if I remember correctly)
 systems because of the increasing current requirements (requiring
 heavier wiring) of today's expanding vehicle electronics.  That was
 actively being discussed a dozen years ago, though, so most likely the
 voltage overshoot issues (relays and motors have a lot of inductance)
 have proven difficult to overcome.

  Memories of my conversion of a 6V Volkswagen Beetle to 12V
  many years ago, so I could finally get rid of the 6V-to-12V
  booster that was being overloaded as I added stuff in the
  vehicle that required 12V.  That was an interesting project.

  In the last several years, commercial comm sites have gone to
  the telephone industry's 48 volt standard, with the major comm
  equipment manufacturers putting the 48V-to-12V down-converter
  as an integral part of their equipment or a needed accessory.
  The railroad industry has been at 72 volts down-converted to
  12V for ages.

  I for one am happy to stay with 12V on my K2 which usually runs
  at about 40 watts for data modes.

--  73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

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Re: [Elecraft] 12 volt PA

2010-04-15 Thread Grant Youngman
Voltage doesn't kill.  Current kills.  You can kill yourself on very few volts, 
if it isn't current limited.  12V, 48v, no real difference.  Maybe the K5 will 
have a couple of big honking ceramic tubes in the box and we'll need 3000v at 
1.5A CCS.   Going to have to upgrade my 180 A/h 12V backup battery system for 
that, for sure :-)



Grant/NQ5T


On Apr 15, 2010, at 4:59 PM, George A. Thornton wrote:

 My understanding is that lower volt systems are preferred by electrical
 safety codes because they pose less danger to human life. 
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[Elecraft] [K3] K3DSPUPGD or K3DSPLPF

2010-04-15 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Continuing on this thread, I understand to make the K3DSPUPGD  mod oneself is 
very hard. I can make the K3DSPLPF  mod with no problem. Do people think the 
K3DSPUPGD would be of benefit to my failing 56 year old ears?
Just how much does better response below 300 Hz help?

---
Since I'm having the P3 shipped, I might as well have some other outstanding 
mods shipped too.

I've read the instructions for K3DSPLPF and don't think I'd have any trouble 
making that mod.

I'd like some advice from those that have done or considered it, is it worth 
getting the K3DSPUPGD instead, does it give me anything that the K3DSPLPF does 
not?

I also find I have a RXAMDKT, but don't see that on the web site - what is that 
mod?

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
It is almost impossible to carry the torch of truth through a crowd without
singeing somebody's beard. -George Christopher Lichtenberg, scientist and
philosopher (1742-1799)

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Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!

2010-04-15 Thread juergen

Hi Tom

Good information the cheap amp. Another  model amplifier  that has a  cult 
following on the ham bands, especially with new hams is the HLA300. This amp is 
another IMD disaster. Without people like yourself who highlight these problems 
we not going to win the battle with these cheap garbage amps being used on the 
ham bands.

These amps seem very attractive to new hams who dont know any  better.

John
--- On Thu, 4/15/10, Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com wrote:

 From: Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!
 To: Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com, lstavenhagen 
 lstavenha...@hotmail.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Thursday, April 15, 2010, 4:10 AM
  On SSB it isn't so much the
 folks on ESSB, although we 
 have a few of those
 here also unfortunately, but rather the poorly adjusted 1KW
 
 plus amplifierrs
 and badly adjusted audio that causes me to screw up my nose
 
 and do a quick
 QSY..(:-))
 
 If we are every going to fix things we need to honestly 
 discuss the real problems.
 
 I have been doing a survey of ops on 20 and 40 meters with
 
 very bad signals, and nearly all the nasty signals were not
 
 high power. Most, after I broke in for a friendly chat, we
 
 running small amps and just mistuning or overdriving them.
 
 A significant number had peaked their radios up and were
 
 running a bit more output from a 100 watt radio. As a
 matter 
 of fact a contestor who brought his FT1000MP's to me had
 his 
 100 watt radios screwed up to 130-140 watts, so this may be
 
 a more common practice then we think. I lowered his radios
 
 to 100 watts, and after a while when the radios came back 
 for another update they were back up to 130-140 watts
 again. 
 At that power level the radios had IM3 in the -20 dB PEP 
 range, and products out to the 17th order were still
 strong.
 
 For all those intent on boosting low power radios with a 
 cheap external PA, you can see measurements here:
 http://www.w8ji.com/rm_hla-150_test.htm
 
 The very best the RM Italy amp gets on *any band at any 
 power* is about like a FT1000MP on the very WORSE band for
 
 the MP.
 
 There is no convincing people that our 100 watt radios at 
 100 watts are barely acceptable as is, and that all these 
 little tricks that give another 1-2 dB more power can 
 increase splatter 15 dB or more. Worse yet, those cheap 
 illegal amplifiers that make 10-watt radios into 100
 watters 
 are going to be our undoing.
 
 73 Tom 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!

2010-04-15 Thread Bob McGraw - K4TAX
I've found many a discussion where one has a 100 watt radio that only puts 
out 90 watts according to their meter an they are mighty unhappy about it. 
Hence, they push the critter trying to get 100 watts out of the box or 
worse, tweak the radio until the meter reads 100 watts, never giving a 
though to what they've done or the side effects.  Never a minute did they 
think the meter might be off by 10 watts.

Perhaps there is still a reason to validate DC input power as the means of 
power measurement.

73
Bob, K4TAX




- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ten Tec never sounded so good!


 Tom,

 This is the all knobs to the right syndrome.  It just does not sink
 into some minds that 100 watts is about the maximum that can be realized
 from a typical automotive battery voltage of 13.8 volts without
 running into unacceptable IMD regions.

 I certainly don't know how to counter it.  There are so many hams who
 try to squeeze every last ounce of power from whatever transceiver thay
 may be using that it amazes me.  Some will even complain endlessly about
 all the bad signals on the air while cranking their power control to the
 maximum and putting out a signal that is as bad or worse than those they
 are complaining about.  I just don't understand the logic because it
 certainly is not logical.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 Tom W8JI wrote:
  On SSB it isn't so much the folks on ESSB, although we
 have a few of those
 here also unfortunately, but rather the poorly adjusted 1KW
 plus amplifierrs
 and badly adjusted audio that causes me to screw up my nose
 and do a quick
 QSY..(:-))

 If we are every going to fix things we need to honestly
 discuss the real problems.

 I have been doing a survey of ops on 20 and 40 meters with
 very bad signals, and nearly all the nasty signals were not
 high power. Most, after I broke in for a friendly chat, we
 running small amps and just mistuning or overdriving them.
 A significant number had peaked their radios up and were
 running a bit more output from a 100 watt radio. As a matter
 of fact a contestor who brought his FT1000MP's to me had his
 100 watt radios screwed up to 130-140 watts, so this may be
 a more common practice then we think. I lowered his radios
 to 100 watts, and after a while when the radios came back
 for another update they were back up to 130-140 watts again.
 At that power level the radios had IM3 in the -20 dB PEP
 range, and products out to the 17th order were still strong.

 For all those intent on boosting low power radios with a
 cheap external PA, you can see measurements here:
 http://www.w8ji.com/rm_hla-150_test.htm

 The very best the RM Italy amp gets on *any band at any
 power* is about like a FT1000MP on the very WORSE band for
 the MP.

 There is no convincing people that our 100 watt radios at
 100 watts are barely acceptable as is, and that all these
 little tricks that give another 1-2 dB more power can
 increase splatter 15 dB or more. Worse yet, those cheap
 illegal amplifiers that make 10-watt radios into 100 watters
 are going to be our undoing.


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Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3, design details?

2010-04-15 Thread juergen

Hi

Wheres all the technical specifications and design details on the P3? All that 
I see on the Elecraft web page is the old P3 original pictures. I would like to 
know what I am buying! Is there a link with a manual somewhere?

John


--- On Thu, 4/15/10, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:

 From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3   
 To: p...@n4lcd.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Thursday, April 15, 2010, 12:49 PM
 
  So the two parts required to have a working panadapter
 kit 
  total $810? 
 
 Since the P3 only uses the IF out, one could roll his own
 cable 
 (TMP to BNC) and mount the jack on the empty panel. 
 
 73, 
 
    ... Joe, W4TV 
  
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]
 On Behalf Of p...@n4lcd.com
  Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 2:53 PM
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] time to order your P3
 
  
  
  
  The earlier KXV3 is fine for the P3.   
 (The KXV3a added internal
  transverter connections for the K144XV).
  
  No other options are required.
  
  So the two parts required to have a working panadapter
 kit 
  total $810? 
  
 
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[Elecraft] FS: Rigblaster Plus

2010-04-15 Thread Randy Moore
$80 shipped in CONUS. Original manual, all cables and AC (wall wart)  
power supply. Currently jumpered internally for my Kenwood MC-43 and  
my K2, but manual tells how to set up for many mics/rigs. Fully  
functional and cosmetically a 9/10 with a couple of scratches on the  
case.

Please reply off-list.

73,
Randy, KS4L
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