[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for July 25th & 26th, 2010
Good Evening, When I received weather reports this afternoon I had the next to hottest temperature. Only Steve, K4JPN, in Georgia was warmer at 95 degree. Even now I am still sticking to the desks at which I seat myself. The breeze running through the house is regulated by where the most shade is around the house. Now that the sun is behind the canopy of the trees it is cooling down some. No matter what you may think Oregon is not all that humid. Nothing like the Midwest or South. So when the sun goes down it cools off quickly. Conditions on twenty meters were weak to the East but better to the North and South of me. I am still waiting for propagation to get back to where it was during the spring. Even though the solar cycle is on a rising note it is taking its own sweet time about improving. Forty meters greeted me with heavy QRN. You may have been calling me but my noise level was S5 during the entire net so I may not have heard you. Walking out to listen to the trees and birds was quite soothing afterward. On to the lists => On 14050 kHz at 2200z: N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398 KL7QOW - Mike - AK - K3 - 3144 N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422 W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767 W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139 W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457 WB5BKL - Nick - TX - K3 - 231 WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392 K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113 On 7045 kHz at z: KL7QOW - Mike - AK - K3 - 3144 K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183 K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113 N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994 Hopefully my weather will cool off just a little so I can get back to work on my wood pile. There is a lot cut in the woods but it needs to get split and find its way home with me. Once I clear the entire loop I will be able to gather more wood more quickly but until then I am practicing backing up my F250 along a winding path through the trees. I tried marking the trees with surveyor's tape only to find I could not tell right from left. So I have modified my scheme to yellow on one side and pink on the other. That helps me not run into trees. Until next week stay cool, 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) - __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Misc stuff for sale
K3 stuff for sale: 1. Heil Proline Gold and Heil stand with cable. $100.00 plus shipping. 2. Kenwood Headphones HS-5, covered to stereo. $30.00 plus shipping. 3. Astron SS-30m. $85.00 plus shipping. 4. Buddipole ant package. minus one whip ( $12.00 new ) plus isolator Radio Works. $200.00. plus shipping. Karl Marderian karl...@sbcglobal.net. N6XVT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable
Brett, You are correct, I read the wrong item on the data sheet. But still, there are two of them on the K3 cable, and I just tested a pair. It took oveer 8 pounds of weight to dislodge the connection. The weight of a fully loaded K3 is 8.5 pounds, so you could not quite hold the K3 up with the power cord, but the basic K3/10 should be able to dangle on the power cord without breaking the connection (but, I am certainly not going to try that with MY K3 :-) ). 73, Don W3FPR Brett Howard wrote: > Thats 25 pounds of pull to pull the metal bit out of the plastic bit... > But it should require 3-5 pounds (depending on what connector detent > style you have) of force before a mated connection separates. > > ~Brett (N7MG) > > On Sun, 2010-07-25 at 13:28 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: > >> Susan, >> >> That usually means the APP was not assembled properly. Make certain the >> blades are fully inserted into the housing. The blades must latch over >> the spring fingers that are in the housing and it takes a good push with >> a thin screwdriver or other tool to seat properly. When properly >> assembled, it takes about a 25 pound pull to disengage them. >> If you assembled your K3 from a kit, check the connector on the K3 as >> well as the one on the cable - OR just check it anyway, there is always >> a chance that a factory assembler did not push hard enough to lock the >> blade. >> >> If you mean that the red and black housings come apart, put a drop of >> superglue on the mating surfaces and they should be tight. There is a >> hole intended for a roll-pin, but often the roll pin comes out and gets >> into places no metal should be, so if you do use a roll-pin, secure it >> with a bit of superglue. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >> ussv dharma wrote: >> >>> The power pole connector cable I recd with my k3 has no place for a pin. >>> >>> The darned thing keeps disconnecting. >>> >>> >>> HELP >>> >>> >>> Great Grandmaw Susan >>> >>> If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! >>> Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm AFA9SM USSV DHARMA >>> >>> >>> --- On Sun, 7/25/10, Jim Brown wrote: >>> >>> >>> From: Jim Brown Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" Date: Sunday, July 25, 2010, 6:41 AM On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 11:13:22 -0700 (PDT), ab2tc wrote: > Where should I look for a top quality connector? > > I've converted all of my DC wiring to Power Poles, so I've put together more than a hundred of these connectors. There are three sizes of pins that fit the red and black shells used by Elecraft. The small size is best for wires smaller than #18; the middle size (most common) works up to #12, the larger size goes up to #8 (and can be a very snug fit in the shell). I've always bought them from hamfest vendors, but there are several vendors who advertise in QST who sell them. They usually come in packs of ten, or ten pairs. I've never crimped them, always soldered. Remember that voltage drop is proportional to length, so shorter is better. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>> __ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >>> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>> >>> >>> >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (7-25-10)
Propagation seemed a little better this week. The only discussion this week was about the shipment dates of P3s. There were 29 of us over 30 minutes. Thanks to everyone who checked in. Here is the list of participants. Station NameQTH Rig S/N N6JWJohnCA K3 936 AD5SX PaulNM TS480 VE3QF TonyON K3 137 W8OVDaveTX K3 3139 AE2JAl NY K3 302 NT5QDon NM K3 4179 W0FMTerry MO K3 474 W5ETJ GaryTX K3 3227 AC0NM Glenn CO K3 2843 K4TMCaryVA K3 3449 W4RKS Jim AL K3 3618 VE1CHW Rob NS K3 1680 KA0NCR/mArnie IA W0CZKen ND K3 457 AA3CS Chuck MD K3 4072 W8YMO Harry OH K2 166 KL7QOW MikeAK K3 3159 K6DSW Don CA K3 3138 KG7UY Dennis OR K2 1982 KK7PLyleWA K3 3036 N6CCH Rebar CA K3 3680 N8RRI JohnMI N5ZMEarlAR K3 3223 K4GCJ Gerry NC K3 1597 N1WRWayne MD K3 1945 W6GFGeorge CA K3 4452 W7AVK Bob WA K3 4365 AB7QDaveAZ K3 2138 NS7PPhilOR K3 1826 73, Phil, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable
Thats 25 pounds of pull to pull the metal bit out of the plastic bit... But it should require 3-5 pounds (depending on what connector detent style you have) of force before a mated connection separates. ~Brett (N7MG) On Sun, 2010-07-25 at 13:28 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Susan, > > That usually means the APP was not assembled properly. Make certain the > blades are fully inserted into the housing. The blades must latch over > the spring fingers that are in the housing and it takes a good push with > a thin screwdriver or other tool to seat properly. When properly > assembled, it takes about a 25 pound pull to disengage them. > If you assembled your K3 from a kit, check the connector on the K3 as > well as the one on the cable - OR just check it anyway, there is always > a chance that a factory assembler did not push hard enough to lock the > blade. > > If you mean that the red and black housings come apart, put a drop of > superglue on the mating surfaces and they should be tight. There is a > hole intended for a roll-pin, but often the roll pin comes out and gets > into places no metal should be, so if you do use a roll-pin, secure it > with a bit of superglue. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > ussv dharma wrote: > > The power pole connector cable I recd with my k3 has no place for a pin. > > > > The darned thing keeps disconnecting. > > > > > > HELP > > > > > > Great Grandmaw Susan > > > > If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! > > Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm AFA9SM USSV DHARMA > > > > > > --- On Sun, 7/25/10, Jim Brown wrote: > > > > > >> From: Jim Brown > >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable > >> To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" > >> Date: Sunday, July 25, 2010, 6:41 AM > >> On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 11:13:22 -0700 > >> (PDT), ab2tc wrote: > >> > >> > >>> Where should I look for a top quality connector? > >>> > >> I've converted all of my DC wiring to Power Poles, so I've > >> put > >> together more than a hundred of these connectors. There are > >> three > >> sizes of pins that fit the red and black shells used by > >> Elecraft. > >> The small size is best for wires smaller than #18; the > >> middle size > >> (most common) works up to #12, the larger size goes up to > >> #8 (and > >> can be a very snug fit in the shell). I've always bought > >> them from > >> hamfest vendors, but there are several vendors who > >> advertise in QST > >> who sell them. They usually come in packs of ten, or ten > >> pairs. I've > >> never crimped them, always soldered. > >> > >> Remember that voltage drop is proportional to length, so > >> shorter is > >> better. > >> > >> 73, Jim K9YC > >> > >> > >> > >> __ > >> Elecraft mailing list > >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > >> > >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > >> > >> > > > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable
Hi Susan: The pin inserts BETWEEN the RED and BLACK connector, NOT between the PAIRS of them. If your APP connector separated from the radio too easily, there's an all too good chance that one of the (4) connectors is not fully 'seated' with its mate and is a fraction of an inch ahead of (or behind) the other connector of the pair. Another possibility is that (particularly on the power cable end) one (or both) of the push-in connector contacts has not been fully seated to the point that it has successfully (and completely) slipped over the leaf spring in each of the plastic housings. It MUST LOCK over the front of the leaf spring or it will not allow the 2-connector assembly to seat properly. If you wish, I can send you some illustrations of properly seated APP contacts, but I can't send 'em thru the reflector (which doesn't support file attachments OR embedded images). 73, Tom Hammond N0SS At 12:15 07/25/2010, you wrote: >The power pole connector cable I recd with my k3 has no place for a pin. > >The darned thing keeps disconnecting. > > >HELP > > >Great Grandmaw Susan > >If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're >headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper >W7KFI-mm AFA9SM USSV DHARMA > > >--- On Sun, 7/25/10, Jim Brown wrote: > > > From: Jim Brown > > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable > > To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" > > Date: Sunday, July 25, 2010, 6:41 AM > > On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 11:13:22 -0700 > > (PDT), ab2tc wrote: > > > > >Where should I look for a top quality connector? > > > > I've converted all of my DC wiring to Power Poles, so I've > > put > > together more than a hundred of these connectors. There are > > three > > sizes of pins that fit the red and black shells used by > > Elecraft. > > The small size is best for wires smaller than #18; the > > middle size > > (most common) works up to #12, the larger size goes up to > > #8 (and > > can be a very snug fit in the shell). I've always bought > > them from > > hamfest vendors, but there are several vendors who > > advertise in QST > > who sell them. They usually come in packs of ten, or ten > > pairs. I've > > never crimped them, always soldered. > > > > Remember that voltage drop is proportional to length, so > > shorter is > > better. > > > > 73, Jim K9YC > > > > > > > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > > >__ >Elecraft mailing list >Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > >This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable
When assembling APP connectors, I prefer to jam a wooden toothpick tightly into the hole and cut off both ends. No risk of a short. 73, Paul W8TM Don W3FPR sed: If you mean that the red and black housings come apart, put a drop of superglue on the mating surfaces and they should be tight. There is a hole intended for a roll-pin, but often the roll pin comes out and gets into places no metal should be, so if you do use a roll-pin, secure it with a bit of superglue. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable
On 7/25/2010 10:28 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > If you mean that the red and black housings come apart, put a > drop of superglue on the mating surfaces and they should be > tight. There is a hole intended for a roll-pin, but often the > roll pin comes out and gets into places no metal should be, so if > you do use a roll-pin, secure it with a bit of superglue. I have found that using the smallest size cable tie a.k.a."Ty-Rap" (tm) through the holes serves to keep the connectors together and the bodies from separating. Easy enough to separate if needed. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Off Topic Hearing Aid
My current hearing aids are top of the Phonak line (22-channel DSP) and are OTE (over the ear) style recommended by my audiologist. I had Resound in the ear cannal style, before. With either I have no problems with feedback "whistles". Those are generally an indication of a poor fit by the ear bud. The over ear model could offer superior noise cancellation because they can separate the front and back microphones sufficiently. When I upgraded to the new hearing aids it took some adjustment to all the sounds I could now hear. I had to lower the volume a bit. Rustling paper sounded like a sheet of aluminum. Tapping pencils by bored employees in a meeting were irritating to listen to. The street noise outside the conference room covered up voices. They were all new sounds that my brain had to re-learn to filter (i.e. reprograming the wet-ware). The new hearing aids work automatically to shift between four sound programs that include shifts in noise reduction routines, noise cancellation, and audio equalization. One program that I can manually select is for music-TV which renders nearly flat frequency response. I like it for ordinary listening as it produces crisper, flatter highs making voice easier to understand. Some of the other sound programs make voice muffled due to noise reduction. I would not say the hearing aids make hearing sound normal. Normal = not hearing anything! Wearing hearing aids means using DSP all the time. One has to give the brain time to assimilate and adjust (about 2-3 weeks for most folks). My hearing loss is >30-dB in both ears. I know this is very off-topic for the list, but may be interesting to some of you normal hearing folks. A few rules for talking to hearing-loss folks: Slow down your speech a bit - our cpu's are often in search mode for best fit of a sound to a word in memory face the person you are speaking to don't cover your mouth - many of us lip read with our eyes (not always a concious process) Don't shout - sometime we only missed a critical word to make the conversation make sense - but speak clearly. enounciate. listen to what we ask - we don't usually need you to repeat everything said this is similar to sending traffic on ham radio - noise bursts and low power or other factors cause missed words. -- Message: 8 Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 19:26:11 +0100 From: "David Woolley (E.L)" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic Hearing Aids To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: <4c4b3043.6020...@david-woolley.me.uk> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Quote 1: That style rings alarm bells, but I'll give it the benefit of the doubt. Quote 2: Unless you have a pure conductive loss, which is relatively rare, and tends to be early in onset, hearing aids that "sound natural" are not doing their job. Hearing aids have a similar job to that of noise reduction in the K3, with the added complication that they have to cope with a possibly very limited dynamic range between threshold of hearing and threshold of pain. They have to both stress the frequencies needed for speech comprehension and apply frequency selective dynamic range compression. Although modern hearing aids use a lot of echo cancellation to stop feedback whistling, deep in the ear ones so not have the level of isolation between input and output to allow for high powers and still maintain feedback suppression. The probable advantage of the deep positioning is that the feedback is less affected by the external environment, so you there are less occasions on which you have to wait for the feedback canceller to retrain. k...@baymoon.com wrote: > As a hearing-impaired operator, I wanted to let you all know about a > fairly recent hearing-aid technology. It is manufactured by a company in > Newark, California, and the device is called a "lyric." > The difference is nothing short of dramatic. Sounds are much more natural > sounding. There are no whistles like one gets with a partially in the > canal device. 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45 == BP40IQ 500 KHz - 10-GHz www.kl7uw.com EME: 144-QRT*, 432-100w, 1296-QRT*, 3400-fall 2010 DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com == *temp __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable
I buy my PowerPole stuff at http://www.connex-electronics.com/. Phil - AD5X __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT-100 Calibration Question
All, I am in the midst of calibrating my KAT-100 antenna tuner. I have it all set up per the manual and have started the process including setting the tuner to CAL and running the RF from the K2 "backwards" in to antenna port 1 on the tuner with the dummy load on the tuner radio port. Note, the antenna tuner was set up to antenna port 1 before I put it on to CAL. My question is: What should the K2 be indicating for SWR in this configuration ? When I press the "TUNE" button on the K2, the SWR is showing "Hi SWR" then 9.9:1. I was expecting a "pass through" to the dummy load with a 1:1. Does the high VSWR on the K2 indicate a problem somewhere, or should I just continue with the cal ? Thanks es 73, Gene K1NR - Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable
Susan, That usually means the APP was not assembled properly. Make certain the blades are fully inserted into the housing. The blades must latch over the spring fingers that are in the housing and it takes a good push with a thin screwdriver or other tool to seat properly. When properly assembled, it takes about a 25 pound pull to disengage them. If you assembled your K3 from a kit, check the connector on the K3 as well as the one on the cable - OR just check it anyway, there is always a chance that a factory assembler did not push hard enough to lock the blade. If you mean that the red and black housings come apart, put a drop of superglue on the mating surfaces and they should be tight. There is a hole intended for a roll-pin, but often the roll pin comes out and gets into places no metal should be, so if you do use a roll-pin, secure it with a bit of superglue. 73, Don W3FPR ussv dharma wrote: > The power pole connector cable I recd with my k3 has no place for a pin. > > The darned thing keeps disconnecting. > > > HELP > > > Great Grandmaw Susan > > If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! > Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm AFA9SM USSV DHARMA > > > --- On Sun, 7/25/10, Jim Brown wrote: > > >> From: Jim Brown >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable >> To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" >> Date: Sunday, July 25, 2010, 6:41 AM >> On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 11:13:22 -0700 >> (PDT), ab2tc wrote: >> >> >>> Where should I look for a top quality connector? >>> >> I've converted all of my DC wiring to Power Poles, so I've >> put >> together more than a hundred of these connectors. There are >> three >> sizes of pins that fit the red and black shells used by >> Elecraft. >> The small size is best for wires smaller than #18; the >> middle size >> (most common) works up to #12, the larger size goes up to >> #8 (and >> can be a very snug fit in the shell). I've always bought >> them from >> hamfest vendors, but there are several vendors who >> advertise in QST >> who sell them. They usually come in packs of ten, or ten >> pairs. I've >> never crimped them, always soldered. >> >> Remember that voltage drop is proportional to length, so >> shorter is >> better. >> >> 73, Jim K9YC >> >> >> >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> >> > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable
The power pole connector cable I recd with my k3 has no place for a pin. The darned thing keeps disconnecting. HELP Great Grandmaw Susan If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm AFA9SM USSV DHARMA --- On Sun, 7/25/10, Jim Brown wrote: > From: Jim Brown > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable > To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" > Date: Sunday, July 25, 2010, 6:41 AM > On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 11:13:22 -0700 > (PDT), ab2tc wrote: > > >Where should I look for a top quality connector? > > I've converted all of my DC wiring to Power Poles, so I've > put > together more than a hundred of these connectors. There are > three > sizes of pins that fit the red and black shells used by > Elecraft. > The small size is best for wires smaller than #18; the > middle size > (most common) works up to #12, the larger size goes up to > #8 (and > can be a very snug fit in the shell). I've always bought > them from > hamfest vendors, but there are several vendors who > advertise in QST > who sell them. They usually come in packs of ten, or ten > pairs. I've > never crimped them, always soldered. > > Remember that voltage drop is proportional to length, so > shorter is > better. > > 73, Jim K9YC > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable
On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 11:13:22 -0700 (PDT), ab2tc wrote: >Where should I look for a top quality connector? I've converted all of my DC wiring to Power Poles, so I've put together more than a hundred of these connectors. There are three sizes of pins that fit the red and black shells used by Elecraft. The small size is best for wires smaller than #18; the middle size (most common) works up to #12, the larger size goes up to #8 (and can be a very snug fit in the shell). I've always bought them from hamfest vendors, but there are several vendors who advertise in QST who sell them. They usually come in packs of ten, or ten pairs. I've never crimped them, always soldered. Remember that voltage drop is proportional to length, so shorter is better. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] Always power cycle after Configuration Menu Change
Gentlemen, I recently wrote if asking for help regarding an error message "ERR BP2" which indicates a KBF3, General Coverage Option problem. There was nothing wrong with the K3; it was my fault entirely. Not having used the KBF3 in two months I forgot that it was in my case located in the sub receiver and had inadvertently reconfigured the K3 to indicate it was in the main receiver. I then corrected the Configuration Menu but found that the general coverage feature still did not work. I ran several tests to prove there was a problem with the KBPF3 and for some of these tests switched the KBF3 in and out for before and after results. Well this does not work because I was not giving a five second plus power off period after each change.It appears that like many computers the K3 only recognizes changes to its configuration at power on. This has been mentioned before on the reflector but my memory is perhaps suffering from age - God I hope not the consequences are not nice. Maxima mea culpa Doug EI2CN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
