Re: [Elecraft] Taxes Due
It's either a miss-post or Larry's email has been hijacked! However, I wish I had taxes that low - all mine do it go up :-( 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108 -- When I am working on a problem I never think about beauty. I only think about how to solve the problem. But when I have finished, if the solution is not beautiful, I know it is wrong. -R. Buckminster Fuller, engineer, designer, and architect (1895-1983) On 2 Apr 2011, at 06:07, Larry East wrote: Karen, Looks like you owe $236 this year -- $200 less than last year. Your self-employed income was greater but your rental income was less. I want to double check everything before I file it electronically. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Taxes Due
Indeed, if my taxes were that low I would rejoice! On Fri, 01 Apr 2011 23:50:22 -0700, David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk wrote: It's either a miss-post or Larry's email has been hijacked! However, I wish I had taxes that low - all mine do it go up :-( 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Taxes Due
I would guess the figures mentioned refer to the check she has to write, not her total tax burden. In other news, it appears nobody wants to know her call sign? 73 de na6m On 4/2/2011 1:55 AM, Kevin Rock wrote: Indeed, if my taxes were that low I would rejoice! On Fri, 01 Apr 2011 23:50:22 -0700, David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk wrote: It's either a miss-post or Larry's email has been hijacked! However, I wish I had taxes that low - all mine do it go up :-( 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Taxes Due
*Chuckle..hey guy's your all overpaid...:-))* * * *I'm poor on account of Elecraft keep snaffling my savings...:-))* * * *73's* *Gary - retired - emphasis on the 'tired' * On 2 April 2011 16:55, Kevin Rock kev...@coho.net wrote: Indeed, if my taxes were that low I would rejoice! On Fri, 01 Apr 2011 23:50:22 -0700, David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk wrote: It's either a miss-post or Larry's email has been hijacked! However, I wish I had taxes that low - all mine do it go up :-( 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- *VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile Elecraft Equipment K3 #679, KPA-500 #018 Living the dream!!!* __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] RE Taxes Due
At 10:15 PM 4/1/2011, John Stevens wrote: I think you had an addressing oops! :-) This went to the Elecraft List! Ah crap!! One entry in the address book off! :-[ But you don't know who's taxes! :-) __ On the web at http://www.w1hue.us (Solar Energy info at http://solar.w1hue.us/http://Solar.w1hue.us) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
I'm a new K3 owner, and I chose the K3 in part because of its small size, because I intend to install it in my boat, which is already cramped for space. I am re-wiring the boat to comply with ABYC (American Boat Yacht Council) standard E-11, /AC and DC Electrical Systems on Boats/. I have a conventional negative-ground DC system. The ABYC E-11 standard requires that in such a system, overcurrent protection (fuse or circuit breaker) to protect the boat's wiring shall be in the ungrounded (positive, red) conductor and that the grounded (negative, black or yellow) conductors in branch circuits (such as the one that one powers my ham station) shall /not/ have fuse or circuit breakers in them. The /K3 Owner's Manual/, however, states (under Specifications, on page 8) that [w]hen a battery is used, both sides of the battery cable should be protected by fast-blow fuses. I wonder why the manual recommends that the negative lead should be fused? Can anyone explain this for me? I intend to wire the K3 power lead with fast-blow fuse in the positive (red) conductor only, in compliance with the ABYC E-11 standard. But ,still, I wonder: why does the K3 manual recommend fuses in /both /conductors: the black (grounded, -12V) as well as the red (ungrounded, +12V)? Jim Maynard, K7KK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] RE Taxes Due
The US Governments, by the sound of it ! 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108 -- I need someone to protect me from all the measures they take in order to protect me. -Banksy, street artist (b. 1974) On 2 Apr 2011, at 08:33, Larry East wrote: At 10:15 PM 4/1/2011, John Stevens wrote: I think you had an addressing oops! :-) This went to the Elecraft List! Ah crap!! One entry in the address book off! :-[ But you don't know who's taxes! :-) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
With car electrics (and a boat may be similar), the reason is that if the engine grounding strap fails (or is removed and not replaced), the starter motor can draw current via the radio negative lead which leads to damage and possibly fire. 73 Dave, G4AON - I wonder why the manual recommends that the negative lead should be fused? Can anyone explain this for me? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500
Well for myself anyway, I wouldn't say that the price of the thing wouldn't matter. It seems to me anyway that $2K seems a bit high. I'm imaging that most of the discussion on price so far has been speculation. I'm in the process of getting my feet wet with Elecraft. I'm hoping to have a K3 with a P3 up and running by the end of May. Since I'm setting up my first shack, I'm not diving into the pool of kickers just yet. However, I'm leaving room in my antenna plans, etc. for an amplifier down the road. I've figured that picturing a ~500W would be pretty spot on. I don't want to start getting close to a kW since the extra power starts to bring unwanted consequences. The KPA500 is news to me as of tonight. I'm glad to see that Elecraft is really widening their RF product line to include this kind of stuff. I can definitely say that I'll be keeping an eye out for the KPA500 in the future be because it's a perfect match for the K3. Can't wait for the details! Geoffrey Wolf University of Pittsburgh '14 AB3LS - Amateur radio call sign gr...@pitt.edu ab...@arrl.net liltechd...@liltechdude.com (717)319-1396 Sent from my iPad On Apr 1, 2011, at 9:21 PM, Martin Staffa geitaem...@gmail.com wrote: Does anybody know the cost of this unit? Not that it will matter Hi N1KGP Martin __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 - LED Diffuser Installation Question
Hi, On 9/12/10, Stan wrote: I noticed the LCD backlight assembly is labeled (top down) A and K on one side and K and A on the other side. The corresponding board positions for D2 and D3 have + signs. The manual doesn't say anything about polarity or even if there is a top and bottom to the diffuser; just to install it and ensure it is exactly 1/8 off the board using the spacers provided. I just wanted to double check with someone who has already been through this. Do the A and K have something to do with polarity? These are little LEDs and normally polarity is important. Thanks, Stan Levandowski WB2LQF I've reached the same step and have the same question, but for some reason my reflector search did not list the responses. Thank you in advance for your help. Wes...KH6HRY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - LED Diffuser Installation Question
It's indeed Anode and Kathode (in German). I checked data sheets for similar parts on Mouser and LED backlight panels that have A and K on them have these leads attached to combined anodes and cathodes of the LED group. See SSB-COB10025GWhttp://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/SSB-COB10025GW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlvmHaYoGmZXTwJQogLTy2wt%2fgFdHF7zk%3das an example. On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 2:54 AM, Wesley Inouye wkino...@gmail.com wrote: Hi, On 9/12/10, Stan wrote: I noticed the LCD backlight assembly is labeled (top down) A and K on one side and K and A on the other side. The corresponding board positions for D2 and D3 have + signs. The manual doesn't say anything about polarity or even if there is a top and bottom to the diffuser; just to install it and ensure it is exactly 1/8 off the board using the spacers provided. I just wanted to double check with someone who has already been through this. Do the A and K have something to do with polarity? These are little LEDs and normally polarity is important. Thanks, Stan Levandowski WB2LQF I've reached the same step and have the same question, but for some reason my reflector search did not list the responses. Thank you in advance for your help. Wes...KH6HRY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
On 2011-04-02 01:03 AM, Dave, G4AON wrote: With car electrics (and a boat may be similar), the reason is that if the engine grounding strap fails (or is removed and not replaced), the starter motor can draw current via the radio negative lead which leads to damage and possibly fire. 73 Dave, G4AON Thank you, Dave, your answer reassures me. In fact, boats are quite different from cars. In cars, it is common to use the chassis as a common ground return. In boats, this is forbidden. To avoid ground loops, the various types of grounds on a boat (the DC safety ground [green], the AC safety ground [green or green with yellow stripe], the lightning ground terminal, the bonding ground for prevention of electrolysis, the RF radio ground, etc.) have only one common point, which is usually the engine negative terminal. In boats, only the starter motor is connected directly to the engine negative terminal. Other DC circuits on a boat have three (3) wires: the ungrounded normally current-carrying conductor (red, DC+), the grounded current-carrying conductor (black or yellow, DC-) and the grounding conductor which normally does not carry current (safety ground, green or bare wire). Similarly for AC circuits: the ungrounded normally current-carrying conductor (in the USA, black, in the EU, brown), the ungrounded current-carrying conductor (in the USA, white, in the EU, light blue), and grounding conductor that normally does not carry current (in the USA green, in the EU, green with yellow stripe). Both the DC and AC safety grounds have only one common point: the engine negative terminal. Other circuits, such as the ham radio circuits, are on the other side of a main circuit breaker which cuts both the DC+ (red wire) and the DC- (black or yellow wire). Likewise, AC branch circuits are on the other side of a main circuit breaker which cuts both the hot conductor (ungrounded, black in US, brown in EU) and the neutral conductor (grounded, white in US, light blue in EU). The safety ground (green with yellow stripe) is never switched. So in the scenario that you describe, if the engine grounding strap should fail or be removed, my boat's main DC circuit breaker will trip, disconnecting both the DC- (black or yellow) and DC+ (red) conductors but leaving the grounding safety ground (green wire) connected to the safety ground bus. The branch circuits downstream of the DC main circuit breaker then have fuses or circuit breakers only in the ungrounded (red) conductors. Thank you, Dave; your explanation reassures me - because I know how boat wiring differs from automobile wiring. 73, Jim, K7KK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - LED Diffuser Installation Question
Thanks Alexey. Now it seems obvious, once you pointed it out that is. Aloha, Wes...KH6HRY On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 12:38 AM, Alexey Kats alexeyk...@gmail.com wrote: It's indeed Anode and Kathode (in German). I checked data sheets for similar parts on Mouser and LED backlight panels that have A and K on them have these leads attached to combined anodes and cathodes of the LED group. See SSB-COB10025GWhttp://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/SSB-COB10025GW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlvmHaYoGmZXTwJQogLTy2wt%2fgFdHF7zk%3das an example. On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 2:54 AM, Wesley Inouye wkino...@gmail.com wrote: Hi, On 9/12/10, Stan wrote: I noticed the LCD backlight assembly is labeled (top down) A and K on one side and K and A on the other side. The corresponding board positions for D2 and D3 have + signs. The manual doesn't say anything about polarity or even if there is a top and bottom to the diffuser; just to install it and ensure it is exactly 1/8 off the board using the spacers provided. I just wanted to double check with someone who has already been through this. Do the A and K have something to do with polarity? These are little LEDs and normally polarity is important. Thanks, Stan Levandowski WB2LQF I've reached the same step and have the same question, but for some reason my reflector search did not list the responses. Thank you in advance for your help. Wes...KH6HRY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500
*Geoff,* * * ***When you look at the THP products you will see quality inside. The KPA-500 is an extremely good design with excellent specs and if you use an amplifier you want it to be clean, robust and simple to use...the KPA-500 meets all the above.* * * *Now if you look at the Ameritron product you will notice the quality of the design/build IS lacking and is priced accordingly.* * * *I have had many amplifiers including solid state units and I can tell you I have done everything to break the one I have for field test and it has performed flawlessly.* * * *I don't have shares in Elecraft but I am a convert to their products after many years of throwing my money away on equipment that needed upgrading to meet my requirements and that always entailed buying a new model.* * * *Whatever decision you make, try before you buy because nobody wants to pay top dollar for an average amplifier on the used market.* * * *YMMV* * * *73's* *Gary * On 2 April 2011 19:10, Geoff Wolf liltechdud...@gmail.com wrote: Well for myself anyway, I wouldn't say that the price of the thing wouldn't matter. It seems to me anyway that $2K seems a bit high. I'm imaging that most of the discussion on price so far has been speculation. I'm in the process of getting my feet wet with Elecraft. I'm hoping to have a K3 with a P3 up and running by the end of May. Since I'm setting up my first shack, I'm not diving into the pool of kickers just yet. However, I'm leaving room in my antenna plans, etc. for an amplifier down the road. I've figured that picturing a ~500W would be pretty spot on. I don't want to start getting close to a kW since the extra power starts to bring unwanted consequences. The KPA500 is news to me as of tonight. I'm glad to see that Elecraft is really widening their RF product line to include this kind of stuff. I can definitely say that I'll be keeping an eye out for the KPA500 in the future be because it's a perfect match for the K3. Can't wait for the details! Geoffrey Wolf University of Pittsburgh '14 AB3LS - Amateur radio call sign gr...@pitt.edu ab...@arrl.net liltechd...@liltechdude.com (717)319-1396 Sent from my iPad On Apr 1, 2011, at 9:21 PM, Martin Staffa geitaem...@gmail.com wrote: Does anybody know the cost of this unit? Not that it will matter Hi N1KGP Martin __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- *VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile Elecraft Equipment K3 #679, KPA-500 #018 Living the dream!!!* __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
Jim, You said: Likewise, AC branch circuits are on the other side of a main circuit breaker which cuts both the hot conductor (ungrounded, black in US, brown in EU) and the neutral conductor (grounded, white in US, light blue in EU). The safety ground (green with yellow stripe) is never switched. The neutral or white wire in USA residential wiring is never cut by a circuit breaker. Both neutral and protective ground circuits are continuous and tie together only in the main circuit breaker panel (typically) and neither are cut by a circuit breaker. In the case of normal residential 120/240v single phase circuit panels, both hot wires are indeed broken by a Main 2-pole circuit breaker. 240v branch circuits (2 hots) also use 2-pole breakers. In 120v branch circuits, only the single hot wire(black) is cut by a circuit breaker. 73, Bob W5OV (retired electrician) -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James Maynard Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 5:41 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery? On 2011-04-02 01:03 AM, Dave, G4AON wrote: With car electrics (and a boat may be similar), the reason is that if the engine grounding strap fails (or is removed and not replaced), the starter motor can draw current via the radio negative lead which leads to damage and possibly fire. 73 Dave, G4AON Thank you, Dave, your answer reassures me. In fact, boats are quite different from cars. In cars, it is common to use the chassis as a common ground return. In boats, this is forbidden. To avoid ground loops, the various types of grounds on a boat (the DC safety ground [green], the AC safety ground [green or green with yellow stripe], the lightning ground terminal, the bonding ground for prevention of electrolysis, the RF radio ground, etc.) have only one common point, which is usually the engine negative terminal. In boats, only the starter motor is connected directly to the engine negative terminal. Other DC circuits on a boat have three (3) wires: the ungrounded normally current-carrying conductor (red, DC+), the grounded current-carrying conductor (black or yellow, DC-) and the grounding conductor which normally does not carry current (safety ground, green or bare wire). Similarly for AC circuits: the ungrounded normally current-carrying conductor (in the USA, black, in the EU, brown), the ungrounded current-carrying conductor (in the USA, white, in the EU, light blue), and grounding conductor that normally does not carry current (in the USA green, in the EU, green with yellow stripe). Both the DC and AC safety grounds have only one common point: the engine negative terminal. Other circuits, such as the ham radio circuits, are on the other side of a main circuit breaker which cuts both the DC+ (red wire) and the DC- (black or yellow wire). Likewise, AC branch circuits are on the other side of a main circuit breaker which cuts both the hot conductor (ungrounded, black in US, brown in EU) and the neutral conductor (grounded, white in US, light blue in EU). The safety ground (green with yellow stripe) is never switched. So in the scenario that you describe, if the engine grounding strap should fail or be removed, my boat's main DC circuit breaker will trip, disconnecting both the DC- (black or yellow) and DC+ (red) conductors but leaving the grounding safety ground (green wire) connected to the safety ground bus. The branch circuits downstream of the DC main circuit breaker then have fuses or circuit breakers only in the ungrounded (red) conductors. Thank you, Dave; your explanation reassures me - because I know how boat wiring differs from automobile wiring. 73, Jim, K7KK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - LED Diffuser Installation Question
Wesley, The board layout along with the orientation of the LEDs assures you that it cannot be mounted backwards, no matter how it is oriented. Just follow the manual instructions and all will be OK. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 5:54 AM, Wesley Inouye wrote: Hi, On 9/12/10, Stan wrote: I noticed the LCD backlight assembly is labeled (top down) A and K on one side and K and A on the other side. The corresponding board positions for D2 and D3 have + signs. The manual doesn't say anything about polarity or even if there is a top and bottom to the diffuser; just to install it and ensure it is exactly 1/8 off the board using the spacers provided. I just wanted to double check with someone who has already been through this. Do the A and K have something to do with polarity? These are little LEDs and normally polarity is important. Thanks, Stan Levandowski WB2LQF I've reached the same step and have the same question, but for some reason my reflector search did not list the responses. Thank you in advance for your help. Wes...KH6HRY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Invitation to connect on LinkedIn
LinkedIn Bob Dobson requested to add you as a connection on LinkedIn: -- Robert, I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn. - Bob Accept invitation from Bob Dobson http://www.linkedin.com/e/sn8jl7-gm0j3636-6z/vIZouyBzrLpSeNIbQZaoTwgkanZSTcIQqfdYZL/blk/I112941746_11/1BpC5vrmRLoRZcjkkZt5YCpnlOt3RApnhMpmdzgmhxrSNBszYNclYSd3sNd3AOcj59bRgUqREObmESbP8UcPwUej4Odz8LrCBxbOYWrSlI/EML_comm_afe/ View invitation from Bob Dobson http://www.linkedin.com/e/sn8jl7-gm0j3636-6z/vIZouyBzrLpSeNIbQZaoTwgkanZSTcIQqfdYZL/blk/I112941746_11/34NnPoQdP4Qej8NckALqnpPbOYWrSlI/svi/ -- (c) 2011, LinkedIn Corporation __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Local Noise Problem
There is a very serious problem with the local noise source from low voltage lighting systems. These are sold as pendants, single lights, or multiple lights on a support, such as a bar. The retailer supplies them with a choice of two types of transformers, either a regular magnetic type (non interfering), or an electronic supply, which is a very noisy switching supply. The latter is most popular because it's small enough to be contained within the smallest fixture. I have two neighbors _a block away_ who have incorporated these into a remodel project. These are kitchen overhead lights that create paralyzing noise, particularly on 40m. I sent the manufacturer/model number (Kovacs) to W1RFI, who plans testing to measure radiation intensity. Retrofit for such lighting is very expensive, mostly because of the mechanical changes involved. One of those neighbors was also causing me a problem with his cheap Chinese laptop supply, which I replaced. On the ARRL website there is a list of letters sent to consumers by FCC indicating a need to correct the noise generated by certain devices; several are listed for lighting systems, which undoubtedly are about the switching power supplies in low voltage systems. FCC Part 15, Sections 15.5 and 18.111 prohibit such interference to a licensed radio station. If you know a neighbor who plans a remodel or someone who is building a house nearby, suggest they select the magnetic transformer. These lights are almost always a part of every remodel project. This is a noise source that could seriously affect our hobby when new construction begins en masse again. 73, Jim W6YA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
I'm not positive (forgive the pun), but I think ideas have changed on that in the UK and you again don't fuse the -ve lead, but I'll need to check. 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108 -- In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense divine? On 2 Apr 2011, at 09:03, Dave, G4AON wrote: With car electrics (and a boat may be similar), the reason is that if the engine grounding strap fails (or is removed and not replaced), the starter motor can draw current via the radio negative lead which leads to damage and possibly fire. 73 Dave, G4AON - I wonder why the manual recommends that the negative lead should be fused? Can anyone explain this for me? __ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
Where will the current will flow if there is a fault? That is the question. There are two things involved here - wiring the radio negative directly to the battery or wiring it to the vehicle chassis. It does make a difference because of the way most vehicle batteries are tied on the negative terminal. If one wires both positive and negative directly to the battery, the negative should be fused to protect the RADIO in case of a fault between the battery and the engine block. It is not a safety issue. Note carefully that the battery negative is wired both to the engine block and to the chassis by direct wires from the battery negative. If the battery were tied only to the engine block and then the chassis were also tied to the engine block (as was pointed out in the case of the boat), the failure mode would not exist. And it is all because the radio is grounded to the chassis through the antenna connection in addition to the negative lead. If both these grounds go to the chassis instead of the battery negative, the problem solved by the fuse in the negative lead would not exist. If the radio negative is connected to the vehicle chassis, the problem does not exist and the negative lead should NOT be fused. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 9:40 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote: I'm not positive (forgive the pun), but I think ideas have changed on that in the UK and you again don't fuse the -ve lead, but I'll need to check. 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: KPA500..Now?
Wasn't it Dayton? bill, W7KXB/7 Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 22:02:12 -0700 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net From: ve...@dccnet.com Subject: [Elecraft] K3: KPA500..Now? Okay it is now April. Is the announcement for the KPA500 anywhere in sight? Well, let's see now Didn't they start taking orders for the K3 at Visalia? Just guessing. Ralph, VE7XF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
Who's on first Sam kf4yox Sent from my iPhone On Apr 2, 2011, at 10:19 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Where will the current will flow if there is a fault? That is the question. There are two things involved here - wiring the radio negative directly to the battery or wiring it to the vehicle chassis. It does make a difference because of the way most vehicle batteries are tied on the negative terminal. If one wires both positive and negative directly to the battery, the negative should be fused to protect the RADIO in case of a fault between the battery and the engine block. It is not a safety issue. Note carefully that the battery negative is wired both to the engine block and to the chassis by direct wires from the battery negative. If the battery were tied only to the engine block and then the chassis were also tied to the engine block (as was pointed out in the case of the boat), the failure mode would not exist. And it is all because the radio is grounded to the chassis through the antenna connection in addition to the negative lead. If both these grounds go to the chassis instead of the battery negative, the problem solved by the fuse in the negative lead would not exist. If the radio negative is connected to the vehicle chassis, the problem does not exist and the negative lead should NOT be fused. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 9:40 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote: I'm not positive (forgive the pun), but I think ideas have changed on that in the UK and you again don't fuse the -ve lead, but I'll need to check. 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Hardened K2 for HFPack?
Perhaps these images from the Elecraft web site will provide inspiration: http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/NewPics2/wj4p_rugged_fr.jpg http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/NewPics2/wj4p_rugged_caps.jpg http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/old_pics3.htm On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 10:22 PM, eric norris gliderboy1...@yahoo.com wrote: It seems to me you could produce side panels for the K2 that were longer in front and back to protect the controls in front and connectors in the back. 73, Byron N6NUL K1 #2799 K2 #7077 - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Hardened K2 for HFPack?
I left out this nifty looking ruggedized K2 from G3LUB: http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/g3lub_rugged_k2.jpg On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 9:01 AM, Byron Servies by...@n6nul.org wrote: Perhaps these images from the Elecraft web site will provide inspiration: http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/NewPics2/wj4p_rugged_fr.jpg http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/NewPics2/wj4p_rugged_caps.jpg http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/old_pics3.htm -- 73, Byron N6NUL - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement
The weekly SSB net will be held tomorrow (4/3/11) at 1800z on 14.316 MHz. This is tail ending with the Icom net that will be ending at that time on that frequency. Ken, KO5Y, will again be the net control station from NM. Thanks to Ken for the great job in my absence. Have a good net. 73, Phil, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500
Hi Gary, On 2 April 2011 12:47, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote: *Geoff,* * * ***When you look at the THP products you will see quality inside. The KPA-500 is an extremely good design with excellent specs and if you use an amplifier you want it to be clean, robust and simple to use...the KPA-500 meets all the above.* What's the deal with the *'s in your messages, it makes them very hard to read! Is it some feature I've overlooked or am I viewing it in the wrong format? 73, Thomas 2E0ETT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
On 4/2/2011 3:40 AM, James Maynard wrote: In fact, boats are quite different from cars. In cars, it is common to use the chassis as a common ground return. In boats, this is forbidden. While the chassis serves as an acceptable return for DC current, using it in this manner is a recipe for AC problems, like alternator while and RFI. Ham gear should ALWAYS be powered by paired conductors running directly from the power source, preferably a twisted pair. 73, Jim Brown K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Local Noise Problem
On 4/2/2011 6:21 AM, Jim McCook wrote: There is a very serious problem with the local noise source from low voltage lighting systems. These are sold as pendants, single lights, or multiple lights on a support, such as a bar. The retailer supplies them with a choice of two types of transformers, either a regular magnetic type (non interfering), or an electronic supply, which is a very noisy switching supply. The latter is most popular because it's small enough to be contained within the smallest fixture. SNIP This is a noise source that could seriously affect our hobby when new construction begins en masse again. Absolutely on target, Jim. I inherited a half dozen of these little monsters in the home I bought in California five years ago. There are two major components of the probem -- first, that these types of devices are exempt from Part 15, thanks to ARRL being asleep at the switch when the exemption was made (perhaps so focused on BPL that they saw nothing else), and to lobbying effort for small government that has essentially gutted the FCC. Second, a real 12V transformer big enough to handle the load of these lights is at least 2-4X larger than the the limited space available in the electrical back-box for the fixture. So from a practical point of view, these switching power supplies are the only option. Those sold by the electrical supply houses here in Santa Cruz county, CA, are unbranded and carry no FCC labels. One piece of good news -- most, if not all, of the noise is radiated as a common mode signal on the AC power wiring, so a good AC line filter can make a big dent in the RFI. I was able to fit a filter in the backbox with one of these power supplies. It's also possible to suppress the noise with a multi-turn toroid choke plus a line-voltage rated capacitor across the line. There are two pieces on my website about this -- one on RFI and Ham radio, and the other specificcally about these filters -- how to use them and where to buy them. http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish.htm 73, Jim Brown K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
On 4/2/2011 10:45 AM, Jim Brown wrote: While the chassis serves as an acceptable return for DC current, using it in this manner is a recipe for AC problems, like alternator while and RFI. Ham gear should ALWAYS be powered by paired conductors running directly from the power source, preferably a twisted pair. Bad fingers -- I meant to say alternator whine. :) 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2] Hardened K2 for HFPack?
I would be interested in a set of these elongated end panels too. Unfortunately it seems the person who used to make them, Randy K3QO (ex WJ4P) was killed in a plain accident a while back. John K2QY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Hardened K2 for HFPack?
Anyone with a good woodworking or metalworking shop should be able to build a set of suitable extensions for the K2 side panels. If built out of wood, I would likely use 1/2 inch Baltic Birch plywood (it is 9 ply and has no voids) for its strength in all directions, but a 1/2 inch thick piece of most any hardwood (oak, cherry, walnut, or even some of the exotic species) planed to 1/2 inch would look nice IMHO. I would just fasten the wood to the existing side panels and make the added sides extend to the plane of the furthermost projection on the front and back of the K2. Longer screws could be used to secure both the added panel and the original to the K2. A similar procedure could be used with metal, but it does not have to be as thick as the wood. In my judgment, 3/16 to 1/4 inch aluminum material would be great. Anyway, that is how I would do it, and NO, I am not going to supply them. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 2:46 PM, John Fritze wrote: I would be interested in a set of these elongated end panels too. Unfortunately it seems the person who used to make them, Randy K3QO (ex WJ4P) was killed in a plain accident a while back. John K2QY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Cursor color
I have absolutely no complaint with my P3! I do have a request regarding the color of the cursor. Currently is is the same color as the peak level which in many instances overwhelms the cursor. It would be very useful of, in a future version of the soft ware affiliated with the P3, a choice of colors for the cursor was made available John Kountz, WO1S/T6EE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Local Noise Problem
Jim, Thanks for those suggestions! It never occurred to me to decouple the transformers from the AC line. In other words, disconnect the antenna from the monster. I'm told that many of these little switchers have toroids or little transformers in them that are pretty effective with noise supression, and therefore able to get Type Acceptance. However, when they are manufactured in China or Indonesia, etc., they get creative in order to save cost. They can still claim Type Acceptance. Elimination of the toroid winding or small transformer and replacement with plain wire is the answer, so now we have a noise generator. AD6ZJ deals directly with some of these devices and explained this to some of us this morning. He also mentioned that the frequency of many of these switchers has become progressively higher than before, some being up in the 3 MHz region! I'll check out your site for suggestions. My preference would be to purchase something that the electrician can install, since putting some sort of homemade device would probably not be acceptable to the electrician or the consumer. It also is a matter of my own responsibility. I'm open to any suggestions. You may have the answer to the problem! 73, Jim W6YA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
While the chassis serves as an acceptable return for DC current, using it in this manner is a recipe for AC problems, like alternator whine and RFI. In addition, it's a recipe for ignition noise and corona noises since using the chassis of the vehicle as a DC return makes every noise source in the vehicle (plus antenna return currents) common to the transceiver power supply. Consider the impedance between the transceiver's chassis connection and the negative terminal of the battery to be equivalent to the modulation choke in an old AM transmitter ... every noise and all of the antenna return current modulates the DC reference (DC return) of the transceiver! Proper installation of communications equipment calls for separately fused power connections directly to both terminals of the battery and a substantial common mode choke in the antenna feedline at the feedpoint of the antenna. 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 4/2/2011 1:45 PM, Jim Brown wrote: On 4/2/2011 3:40 AM, James Maynard wrote: In fact, boats are quite different from cars. In cars, it is common to use the chassis as a common ground return. In boats, this is forbidden. While the chassis serves as an acceptable return for DC current, using it in this manner is a recipe for AC problems, like alternator while and RFI. Ham gear should ALWAYS be powered by paired conductors running directly from the power source, preferably a twisted pair. 73, Jim Brown K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] UK Elecraft SSB net
Hi all, I will be running the UK net tomorrow morning from 09:00BST on 3658 +/- QRM. I hope to see you there. Regards Ian -- Ian J Maude, G0VGS SysOp GB7MBC HB9DRV-9 DX Clusters Member RSGB, GQRP 9838, FISTS 14077 | K3 #455 http://www.m0scg.org.uk __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
Joe and all, Tom Rauch W8JI (whom I believe is well versed in the installation of radios in vehicles) has disagreed with that about a year ago on this reflector. Those interested in his statements may want to search the archives. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 4:09 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: Proper installation of communications equipment calls for separately fused power connections directly to both terminals of the battery and a substantial common mode choke in the antenna feedline at the feedpoint of the antenna. 73, ... Joe, W4TV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 - No CW Sidetone
Hi, I seemed to have lost my CW sidetone (and the spot function as well) on my K2 - s/n 1103. I'm getting audio from the receiver out of the speakers and the transmitter seems to be transmitting. Any ideas? is there a menu setting I may have accidentally turned off? Tnx tom WB2QDG K2 1103 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 and MARS use
How do I go about getting my K3 to transmit on MARS frequencies? I seem to recall there was some software to turn that on. Thanks and 73 de Dave, W5SV / NNN0SLA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 and MARS use
Dave, Send an email to k3supp...@elecraft.com. You may have to supply authentication that you are a MARS member (I don't know for sure), and you should receive the package to open up the bands. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 5:17 PM, David F. Reed wrote: How do I go about getting my K3 to transmit on MARS frequencies? I seem to recall there was some software to turn that on. Thanks and 73 de Dave, W5SV / NNN0SLA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - No CW Sidetone
Tom, Yes, there is a menu item - it is the sidetone source. Enter the menu for STL, then set the parameter for something loud enough for you to hear - use 25 if you have no other idea. Then while still in the menu edit, tap the DISPLAY button to toggle between the 2 sidetone sources (it sometimes takes multiple taps). Stop when you hear sidetone and tap the menu button twice to exit the menu. If you frequently change the sidetone level, there is a chance of accidently tapping the Display button while still editing the sidetone level. When zero beating, I recommend you change the AF gain to make the signal about the same amplitude as the signal rather than changing the sidetone level - it is faster and less chance of an error. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 5:15 PM, Tom McCulloch wrote: Hi, I seemed to have lost my CW sidetone (and the spot function as well) on my K2 - s/n 1103. I'm getting audio from the receiver out of the speakers and the transmitter seems to be transmitting. Any ideas? is there a menu setting I may have accidentally turned off? Tnx tom WB2QDG K2 1103 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - No CW Sidetone
Don--- Your are amazing! How do you know all of this stuff? Once again thanks. I was getting no output from the U6-25 source and when I changed the menu to U8-4 there is was load and clear! I had just taken out my KI02 before this problem arose so I suspect that was the reason the re-setting needed to be done. I'll repeat myself -- Don, you're amazing!! Thanks once again. Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 On 4/2/2011 5:33 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Tom, Yes, there is a menu item - it is the sidetone source. Enter the menu for STL, then set the parameter for something loud enough for you to hear - use 25 if you have no other idea. Then while still in the menu edit, tap the DISPLAY button to toggle between the 2 sidetone sources (it sometimes takes multiple taps). Stop when you hear sidetone and tap the menu button twice to exit the menu. If you frequently change the sidetone level, there is a chance of accidently tapping the Display button while still editing the sidetone level. When zero beating, I recommend you change the AF gain to make the signal about the same amplitude as the signal rather than changing the sidetone level - it is faster and less chance of an error. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 5:15 PM, Tom McCulloch wrote: Hi, I seemed to have lost my CW sidetone (and the spot function as well) on my K2 - s/n 1103. I'm getting audio from the receiver out of the speakers and the transmitter seems to be transmitting. Any ideas? is there a menu setting I may have accidentally turned off? Tnx tom WB2QDG K2 1103 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K60XV Low Power Issue
Hi Gang, Setting my XV222 and XV432 up to run with my K2/10 with I/O has been an issue and I just found out why. With the K2 set for LP, split path, the power out at the phono plug is not 1.0 mW as setup in the menu, but 0.2 mW. The transverters work FB when set to single cable and HP, say 5W drive. I figure that the K60XV has a problem. The manual says to check the parts in the LP path. Without any RF voltage info to go with, I figure that just replacing Q1, D1, and D2 will likely solve the problem. It's a shotgun approach, but looks reasonable to me. Comments? I'm also on the fence. I really need a rig in the shack that'll do 100W on 6M and be a b/u on HF. I had a TS-690SAT and did not care for it much. Choices are the XV50 and TE Systems 170W amp or an FT-450D or maybe an FT-950. A K3 is not in the FY11 or FY12 budget. E-Skip season is almost here! 73, Mark K2QO K2 #543 FN03ra __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - No CW Sidetone
Not so much amazing - when you run across this problem many times, it becomes embedded in the brain. This has been a perpetual K2 support problem, and the selection was left in the firmware to support old K2s without the updated wiring for the KIO2 or KPA100 on the control board. Fortunately (for support), the last level of firmware (2.04R) eliminated the U6-25 source, so anyone upgrading firmware in an older K2 (less than SN 3000) will have to make the wiring change if it is not already done. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 5:41 PM, Tom McCulloch wrote: Don--- Your are amazing! How do you know all of this stuff? Once again thanks. I was getting no output from the U6-25 source and when I changed the menu to U8-4 there is was load and clear! I had just taken out my KI02 before this problem arose so I suspect that was the reason the re-setting needed to be done. I'll repeat myself -- Don, you're amazing!! Thanks once again. Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 On 4/2/2011 5:33 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Tom, Yes, there is a menu item - it is the sidetone source. Enter the menu for STL, then set the parameter for something loud enough for you to hear - use 25 if you have no other idea. Then while still in the menu edit, tap the DISPLAY button to toggle between the 2 sidetone sources (it sometimes takes multiple taps). Stop when you hear sidetone and tap the menu button twice to exit the menu. If you frequently change the sidetone level, there is a chance of accidently tapping the Display button while still editing the sidetone level. When zero beating, I recommend you change the AF gain to make the signal about the same amplitude as the signal rather than changing the sidetone level - it is faster and less chance of an error. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 5:15 PM, Tom McCulloch wrote: Hi, I seemed to have lost my CW sidetone (and the spot function as well) on my K2 - s/n 1103. I'm getting audio from the receiver out of the speakers and the transmitter seems to be transmitting. Any ideas? is there a menu setting I may have accidentally turned off? Tnx tom WB2QDG K2 1103 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K60XV Low Power Issue
Mark, Do you have the KAT2 installed in that K2? And if so, did you change the KAT2 R6 to 470 ohms as mentioned in the manual - the K60XV kit includes the 470 ohm resistor. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 5:46 PM, Mark Adams wrote: Hi Gang, Setting my XV222 and XV432 up to run with my K2/10 with I/O has been an issue and I just found out why. With the K2 set for LP, split path, the power out at the phono plug is not 1.0 mW as setup in the menu, but 0.2 mW. The transverters work FB when set to single cable and HP, say 5W drive. I figure that the K60XV has a problem. The manual says to check the parts in the LP path. Without any RF voltage info to go with, I figure that just replacing Q1, D1, and D2 will likely solve the problem. It's a shotgun approach, but looks reasonable to me. Comments? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 +sign in display
Hadn't paid much attention to the really little things in the display, but a while ago while operating CW that there was a + sign under and a little to the right of the B vfo indicator. Wondering what this was, I started digging in the book and didn't find anything except that it would indicate repeater offset in FM mode with the 2 meter transverter installed or that ESSB was on when in SSB mode. Nothing I could find mentioned CW. Since I had only recently started testing the new features Wayne had added in test version 4.30 (it still reports 4.29) of the firmware (not available yet on the website) I had QRQ turned on. Not being very observant I missed it, but the + in CW mode indicates that QRQ mode is ON in the configuration menu. It may be in the manual, but I couldn't find it so thought I'd post my observations here in case anyone else had wondered what it was for when in CW mode. Jim - W0EB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 +sign in display
QRG mode. May not be in the manual or manual errata yet, but it is in the release notes, though I don't recall which release. Ed - W0YK Jim, W0EB, asked: Hadn't paid much attention to the really little things in the display, but a while ago while operating CW that there was a + sign under and a little to the right of the B vfo indicator. Wondering what this was, I started digging in the book and didn't find anything except that it would indicate repeater offset in FM mode with the 2 meter transverter installed or that ESSB was on when in SSB mode. Nothing I could find mentioned CW. Since I had only recently started testing the new features Wayne had added in test version 4.30 (it still reports 4.29) of the firmware (not available yet on the website) I had QRQ turned on. Not being very observant I missed it, but the + in CW mode indicates that QRQ mode is ON in the configuration menu. It may be in the manual, but I couldn't find it so thought I'd post my observations here in case anyone else had wondered what it was for when in CW mode. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Hardened K2 for HFPack and K3
Saylors Machine Design Works also made some nice thick aluminum side panels for the K2 with rack-type handles at the front and rear. I got a set for my K2, and also had them do a matching pair for my K3. Not sure if they still do them. A Google search for the above name brings up the web site but no mention of the Elecraft items. 73, Henry - K4TMC -Original Message- From: John Fritze fritzej...@gmail.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sat, Apr 2, 2011 2:46 pm Subject: [Elecraft] [K2] Hardened K2 for HFPack? I would be interested in a set of these elongated end panels too. Unfortunately it seems the person who used to make them, Randy K3QO (ex WJ4P) was killed in a plain accident a while back. John K2QY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 +sign in display
Ed Muns wrote: QRG mode. QRQ. May not be in the manual or manual errata yet... It has been in the manual for quite awhile, actually. Or see firmware release notes for revision 4.03. 73, Wayne N6KR but it is in the release notes, though I don't recall which release. Ed - W0YK Jim, W0EB, asked: Hadn't paid much attention to the really little things in the display, but a while ago while operating CW that there was a + sign under and a little to the right of the B vfo indicator. Wondering what this was, I started digging in the book and didn't find anything except that it would indicate repeater offset in FM mode with the 2 meter transverter installed or that ESSB was on when in SSB mode. Nothing I could find mentioned CW. Since I had only recently started testing the new features Wayne had added in test version 4.30 (it still reports 4.29) of the firmware (not available yet on the website) I had QRQ turned on. Not being very observant I missed it, but the + in CW mode indicates that QRQ mode is ON in the configuration menu. It may be in the manual, but I couldn't find it so thought I'd post my observations here in case anyone else had wondered what it was for when in CW mode. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
Right, Bob. What you say is true of AC residential wiring. Boats are different. The so-called main AC breaker on a correctly wired boat breaks both the hot wire(s) -- black or in 120/240 VAC single phase, black and red) and the neutral (white) wire -- coming from the boat's shore power inlet. Also, boats are required (by ABYC E-11) to have a reverse polarity indicator or alarm to alert the user if he plugs his shore power cable into an incorrectly wired shore power pedestal outlet at the marina. The marina's shore power outlet at the pedestal near your slip is, from the point of view of the requirements for residential or factory wiring, a BRANCH outlet, and one in a particularly damp and hazardous location, where a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter would be appropriate. (Most marinas lack GFCIs however.) The shore power coming on board a boat at its shore power inlet has its neutral and safety ground conductors tied together only at the main power inlet for the whole marina. At the shore power pedestal at your slip, there is usually a noticeable different in AC voltage between the neutral and safety ground. (If indeed, there *is* a safety ground -- too often marinas are wired incorrectly!) This can be a particular hazard in marinas in fresh water. If there were a wiring fault aboard your boat - or a nearby boat - there can be an AC potential gradient in the fresh water surrounding the boats, and anyone swimming nearby can be electrocuted by that AC voltage gradient. (People are more conductive than fresh water, but less conductive than salt water. So-called ESD -- electro-shock drowning -- can and does occur.) So I am wiring my boat acccording to the current ABYC E-11 standard rather than according to the National Electric Code that applies to residential wiring. I am installing ELCIs (Equipment Leakage Circuit Interrupters) for each shore power inlet, and I am also installing an isolation transformer, wired according to E-11, with the case connected to the boatside ground, and the shield between the windings connected to the shoreside neutral (white wire coming from the marina's shoreside pedestal). You are correct, Bob, in describing residential wiring. But boats are different! Jim Maynard, K7KK At 2011-04-02 05:14 AM (Pacif Daylight Savings Time), Bob Naumann wrote: Jim, You said: Likewise, AC branch circuits are on the other side of a main circuit breaker which cuts both the hot conductor (ungrounded, black in US, brown in EU) and the neutral conductor (grounded, white in US, light blue in EU). The safety ground (green with yellow stripe) is never switched. The neutral or white wire in USA residential wiring is never cut by a circuit breaker. Both neutral and protective ground circuits are continuous and tie together only in the main circuit breaker panel (typically) and neither are cut by a circuit breaker. In the case of normal residential 120/240v single phase circuit panels, both hot wires are indeed broken by a Main 2-pole circuit breaker. 240v branch circuits (2 hots) also use 2-pole breakers. In 120v branch circuits, only the single hot wire(black) is cut by a circuit breaker. 73, Bob W5OV (retired electrician) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Vol 84, Issue 2 Battery Negative
Hi all, The UK Code of Practice for vehicle installations is FCS 1362 http://www.fcs.org.uk/my%20files/fcs_pdfs/codesofpractice/fcs1362_2010.pdf It is a change, in December 2010, from MPT 1362. The old MPT version said both leads to battery, both fused. The negative lead did provide an alternative connection from the vehicle chassis to the battery negative and even with the engine/starter earth strap intact the current through the rig was non-zero. With a duff strap it could be over 100A. FCS 1362 avoids that risk by saying positive fused to battery, negative to nearest chassis bonding point, no fuse. That does introduce a common negative impedance for the rig and the vehicle electrics, providing a route for import and egress of interference. The FCS took a value/hazard judgement on the relative magnitudes of the problem and the probability of occurrence. There is no solution for avoiding both problems but with a substantial chassis and a close or common bonding point for the battery negative to chassis and engine strap to chassis that aspect is minimised. Outstanding then is the vehicle management electronics earthing. Regards 73 Alan G0HiQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Hardened K2 for HFPack?
Perhaps the top and bottom could be extended too, at least in front, creating a box around the controls for protection. The K2's are available for: $45 The K3's are available for: $50 (plus shipping) See photo about 3/4 down this page: http://saylorsmachine.com/ShopPhotos.html 73, Bill W4ZV -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Hardened-K2-for-HFPack-tp6233257p6234503.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 and MARS use
Thanks Don, not a problem. --Dave, W5SV / NNN0SLA On 4/2/11 4:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Dave, Send an email to k3supp...@elecraft.com. You may have to supply authentication that you are a MARS member (I don't know for sure), and you should receive the package to open up the bands. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 5:17 PM, David F. Reed wrote: How do I go about getting my K3 to transmit on MARS frequencies? I seem to recall there was some software to turn that on. Thanks and 73 de Dave, W5SV / NNN0SLA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500..Now?
I wasn't kidding. (Some may have mistakenly thought I was partaking in April fools..) 73, Eric www.elecraft.com _..._ On Apr 1, 2011, at 6:29 PM, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft e...@elecraft.com wrote: Next week. :-) 73, Eric _..._ Mike AI6II ai...@att.net wrote: Okay it is now April. Is the announcement that Elecraft will start taking orders for the KPA500 anywhere in sight? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 and MARS use
Only ham callsign and K3 s/n are required. 73, Eric www.elecraft.com _..._ On Apr 2, 2011, at 2:32 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Dave, Send an email to k3supp...@elecraft.com. You may have to supply authentication that you are a MARS member (I don't know for sure), and you should receive the package to open up the bands. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2011 5:17 PM, David F. Reed wrote: How do I go about getting my K3 to transmit on MARS frequencies? I seem to recall there was some software to turn that on. Thanks and 73 de Dave, W5SV / NNN0SLA __ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Thinking outside (or inside) the box
I have a K-3, S/N 1997 that I am very happy with. So here's my questions: I read that the K-3 can be run as a remote station. Is anyone doing this? Does anyone have any comments on how this works compared to the Kenwood TS 2000, which a friend of mine let's me use remotely, using W4MQ's software, which works well. Any recommendations on other software? I recently took my Sprint mobile hotspot, http://shop2.sprint.com/NASApp/onlinestore/en/Action/DisplaySelPhoneDetail?p honeSKU=SWAC802ECID=SEM:Google:R:Sprint:Generic In the car (don't worry, I was a passenger) along with my laptop and got on the remote station and was able to work stations nicely. So as you can see, I'm thinking this could be a good way to run radio remote from my car over the internet to my home station. There are many issues I need to resolve; like how to handle the microphone while driving. I did order a Bluetooth headset, a Blue Parrot Road Warrior which gets good reviews from truckers re wind noise. On the W4MQ software you need to click on the transmit icon. Anyone have an idea on how to do that without having to look at the computer screen? I previously had a Don Johnson screwdriver on my old car, which I just turned in on a lease and am reluctant to put the screwdriver on the new car as it was a lot of work, but worked very well using a Yaesu 857D in the car. Please only comment if you have constructive comments/suggestions. I know that some people don't think this is ham radio and I understand that position, but still want to try this. BTW, driving around the L.A. area the mobile hot spot stays connected 99% of the time. 73 Ron AE6RH __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Local Noise Problem
On 4/2/2011 1:07 PM, Jim McCook wrote: You may have the answer to the problem! Your electricians should be happy with one of the small 1A line filters, Corcom, Delta, or equiv. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
On 4/2/2011 1:09 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: a substantial common mode choke in the antenna feedline at the feedpoint of the antenna. Yes. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Why fuse the negative lead from a battery?
On 4/2/2011 2:06 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Tom Rauch W8JI (whom I believe is well versed in the installation of radios in vehicles) has disagreed with that about a year ago on this reflector. I don't often disagree with Tom, but sometimes I think he's mistaken. One place we differ is that he recommends powering gear from the alternator rather than the battery. Tom has done a lot of work with serious mobile installations, and he has reasons for his recommendations. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Hardened K2 for HFPack?
Actually, I was hoping that something like that would be the next Elecraft product. Maybe a K2-field, or a K2-A; a ruggedized, updated, version with lessons learned from the K3. Perhaps in a SG-2020 like package, with 20W and a antenna tuner mounted on the top with both a front and rear RF connector to allow use of the radio with a whip antenna in a pack. Use the external KPA-100 with KAT-100 for non-portable operation. Battery could mount inside the radio or on the bottom. Just a thought.. : - ) 73, K1NR On Fri, 01 Apr 2011 22:31:07 -0700 Kevin Rock kev...@coho.net wrote: Check the archives. I think someone did that in the past and may be available to make more of them for you. Kevin. KD5ONS On Fri, 01 Apr 2011 22:22:11 -0700, eric norris gliderboy1...@yahoo.com wrote: I recently saw a string of posts on the HFPack forum about a dream radio for HFPack, Pedestrian Mobile, etc. Almost everything asked for by various contributors is already part of the K2--effective NB, DSP, 15-20 watt output power, miserly receiver, built-in battery pack, etc. What the K2 doesn't have are the physical characteristics for carrying it. It seems to me you could produce side panels for the K2 that were longer in front and back to protect the controls in front and connectors in the back.These same side panels could have attached metal strap loops for carrying the K2 with a shoulder strap, and strap loops for tieing it down to an ALICE frame, etc., Perhaps the top and bottom could be extended too, at least in front, creating a box around the controls for protection. Has anyone with a machine shop experimented with this, or has Elecraft considered making some extra-long panels? Just a thought 73, Eric WD6DBM K3, K2, K1, KX1, P3, XV432, XV144, mini-modules, 64-oz glass for the Kool-Aid __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html - Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening, Propagation was decent this week. The weather was not. It has been snowing on and off all day. I get enough sun between storms that it all melts but still this is getting old. I would like spring to really show up and stay for a while. I had very high winds a few days this week but the antennas are still up. The same cannot be said for a number of branches. Some of those have been awakening me in the middle of the night as they whack the roof. On the way back home yesterday I saw more wind damage down below. Then I saw a deer running through a Christmas tree farm who was half way through the seasonal color change. Half greyish and half reddish brown. In another week she will blend in much better. The most colorful sight was the various mosses going through their haploid phase. Bright, almost neon, green. If anyone is interested in acting as a relay station on either net please email me. I will turn the net over to you for a few minutes so you can call areas in my skip zone. It sure would prove helpful to those I cannot reach directly. Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening. 1) Hail signs (first letter or two of the suffix of your call) 2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP relay help) Sunday 2200z (Sunday 3 PM PDT) 14050 kHz Monday z (Sunday 5 PM PDT) 7045 kHz Stay well, Kevin. KD5ONS - __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
