[Elecraft] KAT100 project - removing the control board

[Stan AE7UT]

I'm just finishing my KAT100 build to use with K2/100 SN #7230.
I did not build the K2 and have never built one - so unfamiliar territory.

The instructions say to pull the control board and KAF2 if present.
It also says to use the "long handled Allen wrench" - yea I don't have
that .  This K2 has a KDSP2 installed.  I need to cut the trace and install
R12 between R8 and R9.  

I popped the top panel between the front panel and the KPA100 and can
see the board and the resistors.  This K2 has a jumper placed where the
R12 needs to go.  Before I start pulling stuff apart can someone give me
a bit of a clue how to pull this board?  I don't want to break an excellent
working radio.  If Don is reading this - it's the one you fixed for me.
I don't want to have to send it to you again.

"Dammit Jim I'm just an old country doctor!"

Thanks for any help you can be.

73
Stan AE7UT




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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[Tom H Childers]

Kevin,
How about "Elecraft CW Net D Day Celibration"?  06 JUNE 1944 was when
the Allied troops landed on the beaches of Normandy.

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member 

On Sat, 04 May 2013 18:49:38 -0700, kevinr  wrote:

>Good Evening,
> I have gone two full days without a fire; this is very unusual for 
>this time of year.  Looks like two more days of heat and then we go back 
>to normal.  Hopefully the coming cool weather will take care of this 
>year's black flies.  Right now it is no fun going outside unless it is 
>very windy.  Luckily these guys don't last long.
>
> Propagation was not good this week.  Maybe things have changed in 
>the last few days so tomorrow's nets will be well attended. The 10th 
>Anniversary of ECN is coming up in one month.  Landmarks like this 
>should be special.  I will need to think up something for the 6th of 
>June.  Any ideas?
>
>Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening.
>
>1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
>2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP  help)
>
>Sunday 2200z (Sunday 3 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
>Monday 0100z (Sunday 6 PM PDT)  7045 kHz
>
>Stay warm,
>   Kevin.  KD5ONS
>
>-
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement

[Phil Shepard]

The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (5/5/13) at 1800Z on 14.3035 MHz 
+/- QRM.  I will be the net control from western Oregon.  See you there.

73,

Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 kit suggestions? Response Part 2

[Mike Morrow]

Gil advised:

> If I was building another one, I would installed the capacitor required
> for the 80m filter board, so if you ever want to build a board with that
> band, you wouldn't have to remove the bottom cover again.

That is RF PCB C78.  The same advice is appropriate for RF PCB RFC8.
But...these parts are **only** supplied with an 80m two-band KFL1-2.
Neither are supplied with the four-band KFL1-4, which does not cover
80m.

> I also did change a capacitor to speed up AGC, can't remember which,
> but it should be easy to find.

It **is** easy to find...see the message I posted a few hours ago.  That's
RF PCB C31.  The most commonly used non-stock value is 1 uF, but people
have been happy with 0.47 uF and even smaller.  The stock 2.2 uF is just
terrible.

> I highly recommend using Spectrogram or even Fldigi to center the filters.

That is a nice approach, but only for adjusting the value of product detector
tuning capacitor RF PCB C20.  It is a waste of effort to use those techniques
to set **anything** on the filter board itself.  If one does that, the
immediate result is very precise adjustment of the filter board capacitors
for optimal received signal performance.  But...these same circuits are used
in transmission mode.  If left without further adjustment, in transmission
mode one will likely have little or no transmitter output.  The adjustments
of the capacitors of the KFL1-4 (or inductors of the KFL1-2) are far far far
more critical for transmit than for receive.  That's why the manual makes
**all** of the final adjustments of filter board variable reactances in
**transmit** mode.  So...that will upset every one of those fine adjustments
that had been made earlier in receive mode during the alignment process.

It is unnecessary to use anything other than the simple straightforward
method that is described in the K1 manual, no part of which mentions the
use of Spectrogram or the like. 

> I did opt for the 150KHz bandwidth, works fine, but it is a bit touchy.

Well, VFO span...not bandwidth.  It's touchy because the VFO pot has almost
no resistance to rotation.  When fingers are removed from the knob, it is
difficult to avoid some slight angular displacement of the knob.  I like
the 150 kHz VFO span option (one will actually get about 170 kHz), for
which 120 pF is used as RF PCB C2.  That'll allow coverage of the Morse
activity that is still common above 7.1 MHz, as well as allowing copy of
10 MHz WWV on the 30m band.  I placed some hand-cut thin felt washers
between the VFO knob's back and the front panel to give some needed light
rotational resistance.  The VFO pot system is fairly linear...there will
be about 17 kHz per complete turn of the VFO knob.

The K1 receiver operates in LSB mode, given currently-supplied filter board
heterodyne crystal frequencies.  A 170 kHz VFO span allows the possibility
of cross-mode contacts on 40m.  LSB is intelligible when the K1 is set for
its maximum IF bandwidth of about 850 Hz, but it's not going to be hi-fi!

The KFL1-4 can cover either 17m or 15m.  The 17m band is a fine band, but
it no way matches 15m during the solar cycle maximum.  When open, 15m is
the best QRP band ever, IMHO.

The K1 is a mature product, with its first deliveries in Fall 2000.  All
of the hardware issues were resolved more than a decade ago.  The
significant errors in the manuals were removed a few years ago.  There's
not too much that can go wrong as long as the K1 manual is followed
closely and exactly (note the proper toroid turns counting described
on page 14).  There's not even an errata sheet for K1 manual revision I!

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] Mini-mic

[Gary K9GS]

Can't beat the price...silly as this whole thread is.  $0.99/ea 
including free shipping.



On 5/3/2013 8:58 AM, Ray Sills wrote:
For those in a quest for a very small mic for a KX3, something like 
this item might do the job.  There are many similar items out there.


 



No interest in the company, etc... and I have not purchased from 
them.  But it's typical of offerings.  YMMV.


73 de Ray
K2ULR


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--


73,

Gary K9GS

Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org



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[Elecraft] K2 IF alignment

[Tom Field]

I'm at the building stage of IF alignment for the K2 I'm supposed to hear a
signal around 7000 kHz. I hear nothing. I've done the 40 meter filter
alignment and checked with an XG 3. The tuning seems spot on, but I only
hear the X3 when set t0 50 uVolts. The 1uvolt signal doesnt' get through.
Any ideas

Tom
KI6NRD.
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[kevinr]

Good Evening,
I have gone two full days without a fire; this is very unusual for 
this time of year.  Looks like two more days of heat and then we go back 
to normal.  Hopefully the coming cool weather will take care of this 
year's black flies.  Right now it is no fun going outside unless it is 
very windy.  Luckily these guys don't last long.


Propagation was not good this week.  Maybe things have changed in 
the last few days so tomorrow's nets will be well attended. The 10th 
Anniversary of ECN is coming up in one month.  Landmarks like this 
should be special.  I will need to think up something for the 6th of 
June.  Any ideas?


   Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening.

1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP  help)

Sunday 2200z (Sunday 3 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0100z (Sunday 6 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

   Stay warm,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

-
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Use with K3.

[Fred Jensen]

Alan, your results sound about like mine.  I calibrated my S-meter [I 
use the ABS mode] using my service monitor and then calibrated the P3. 
you didn't say, but if you're comparing signals on the air, there is 
going to be a difference.


The P3 averages, I believe the minimum is 2 samples, mine's set at 4, 
and depending on the span you're using, the "pixel BW" on the P3 can be 
much less than the BW your K3 is currently at.  That's just inherent in 
the math of the FFT that produces the spectrum and WF displays.  In the 
end, you can't argue with mathematics. :-)


You may have nothing at all wrong and may have done everything right.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013
- www.cqp.org

On 5/4/2013 5:58 PM, Alan Hawrylyshen wrote:


After following the guidelines in the K3 and P3 manuals, I've
calibrated the S-Meter on the K3 and the level calibration on the P3
(using an XG3 as the signal source). I notice that regardless of what
I seem to do, the S meter reads 1-2 S units higher on the K3 than on
the P3 'peak envelope' display. Is something amiss, am I
misinterpreting things, or is there something I should check for?


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[Elecraft] [P3] Use with K3.

[Alan Hawrylyshen]

All;

I have a question about whether or not this is normal behavior and if it is, an 
explanation for the differences I'm perceiving will help me feel less 
inadequate about my knowledge here.


After following the guidelines in the K3 and P3 manuals, I've calibrated the 
S-Meter on the K3 and the level calibration on the P3 (using an XG3 as the 
signal source). I notice that regardless of what I seem to do, the S meter 
reads 1-2 S units higher on the K3 than on the P3 'peak envelope' display. Is 
something amiss, am I misinterpreting things, or is there something I should 
check for?

I have SMTR MD nor. SMTR PK Off. (but have tried with on).

The K3 S-meter displays no bars with antenna disconnected and S-2 at 1uV and 
S-9 at 50uV as expected. The factory default settings for the calibration 
values more or less 'just worked'. 
The transfer gain in the P3 is set to -10bBm IIRC.

Comments or thoughts anyone?

Thanks
Alan
K2ACK

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 kit suggestions?

[Gil G.]

On Sat, 2013-05-04 at 21:25 +0100, David G4DMP wrote:
> One thing I would recommend, Jim, is to get the K1BKLTKIT-X for your K1
> at $29.95.  This is the LCD backlight kit for your unbuilt K1.  You can
> add the backlight later if you want, but it would be more difficult and
> will cost you an extra $10.

Yes! Definitely do that!

No great difficulties building the K1.. Just take your time.

If I was building another one, I would installed the capacitor required
for the 80m filter board, so if you ever want to build a board with that
band, you wouldn't have to remove the bottom cover again..
I also did change a capacitor to speed up AGC, can't remember which, but
it should be easy to find.

I highly recommend using Spectrogram or even Fldigi to center the
filters.

I did opt for the 150KHz bandwidth, works fine, but it is a bit touchy..

Make sure you let the K1 warm up before adjusting your frequency
display.. Best way to do that is to call CQ and look at your reported
frequency on a few reverse beacons (see reverse beacon network).

It's a great little rig for sure!

Gil.

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[Elecraft] Enhancement request: CW skimmer in P3

[WX2S]

Dear Elecraft,

I would really appreciate it if you'd add CW skimming capability to the P3.
I can kind of get it with a second SDR receiver, but it's clunky and
kludgey. Please consider it for the next major P3 enhancement.

73,
- Steve WX2S




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and KPA 100

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Yes, it's designed to do just that. Furthermore, you can have the KAT2 ATU
and even the battery in your QRP K2 while traveling. 

You just change the top part of the radio. Your K2 comes with a "QRP cover"
that contains the speaker and, if you desire, the KAT2 ATU and battery. You
remove a few screws, lift the KPA100 amplifier module off of your K2 and
replace it with the QRP cover. It takes less than 5 minutes. Not only is the
K2 now self-contained with, if you choose, battery and ATU, it's a lot
lighter, Hi! 

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Christophe F8ACF-56
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 12:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 and KPA 100


Good evening to all,

is there a way to put off the K2 100 kPa for the 10w version for travel and
100W QRP version home
 
73 , Christophe F8ACF-56
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 kit suggestions?

[David G4DMP]

One thing I would recommend, Jim, is to get the K1BKLTKIT-X for your K1
at $29.95.  This is the LCD backlight kit for your unbuilt K1.  You can
add the backlight later if you want, but it would be more difficult and
will cost you an extra $10.

You will enjoy your K1; it's an excellent little rig.

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, Jim Hahn  writes
>Can any of you that have or are building the K1 give me a heads up on
>any things to be aware of as this is my first time building a Elecraft
>kit?   I purchased the K1/4 band version kit.

-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 kit suggestions?

[Mike Morrow]

Jim wrote:

> Can any of you that have or are building the K1 give me a heads
> up on any things to be aware of as this is my first time building
> a Elecraft kit?

(1) Priority Number One - If you have not purchased the LCD backlight kit,
**do so as soon as possible** and skip the building of the front panel until
it arrives!  I've owned a K1 (S/N 175) for almost 13 years and the most
important and useful addition (after the four-band filter board) was
the LCD backlight.  It is extremely easy to install as part of the front
panel board construction, but a *real* aggravating pain in the behind to
do so after the front panel board has been completed.  The LCD backlight
is important...to the point the Elecraft should not be selling a K1
without the LCD back light, IMHO.

(2) When you are told to install RF board C22, install it with tack
solder joints below the RF board without putting leads through PCB holes.
That will make it much easier to remove if/when the PCB connector that
comes with the KNB1 noise blanker option is to be installed.

(3) RF board C31 is a 2.2 uF AVC delay capacitor.  Almost everyone who
has built a K1 finds this value causes an AVC delay that is much much
too long...a characteristic that is never desirable for CW operation.
So tack solder C31 in below the RF PCB when the manual calls for that,
without putting leads through PCB holes.  That will make it much easier to
remove and replace with a 1 uF (or less) capacitor later, after you see
how much undesirable delay the stock capacitor causes.

(4) Triple check in every detail the marking of each semiconductor that
you are about to install.  The device to be installed must be **exactly**
the device called for in the manual...not something that just "seems close".
Every year someone installs a transistor that he thinks is "close enough"
(!!!) and winds up with an inoperative radio.  Amazing, but true!

That's about all I can think of right now for the basic K1.  

Great rig!  Great choice!  Welcome to Elecraft.  Post questions here anytime
as often as needed and someone will respond.

73,
Mike / KK5F


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and KPA 100

[Walter Underwood]

If you do not already have a KPA100, you might look at the very very soon to be 
released KXPA100. It designed as an add-on amp for the KX3.

wunder
K6WRU

On May 4, 2013, at 1:13 PM, Jim Wiley wrote:

> Christophe -
> 
> The easiest way to do this, if you will be changing from one configuration to 
> the other frequently, is to mount the KPA100 in a separate EC2 cabinet.  I do 
> this with my K2, and it works great. I also have the KAT100 antenna coupler 
> in the same EC2 box, but you can do this with just the KPA100 alone.   It 
> makes for a beautifully integrated station that converts instantly from 
> 10-watt QRP portable to 100-watt base operation in less than a minute.  There 
> are numerous articles on various web sites that detail how to to this.  You 
> will need the KIO2 interface module in the base K2 if it doesn't already have 
> one.
> 
> - Jim, KL7CC
> 
> 
> On 5/4/2013 11:54 AM, Christophe F8ACF-56 wrote:
>> Good evening to all, is there a way to put off the K2 100 kPa for the 10w 
>> version for travel and 100W QRP version home 73 , Christophe F8ACF-56
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and KPA 100

[Jim Wiley]

Christophe -

The easiest way to do this, if you will be changing from one 
configuration to the other frequently, is to mount the KPA100 in a 
separate EC2 cabinet.  I do this with my K2, and it works great. I also 
have the KAT100 antenna coupler in the same EC2 box, but you can do this 
with just the KPA100 alone.   It makes for a beautifully integrated 
station that converts instantly from 10-watt QRP portable to 100-watt 
base operation in less than a minute.  There are numerous articles on 
various web sites that detail how to to this.  You will need the KIO2 
interface module in the base K2 if it doesn't already have one.


- Jim, KL7CC


On 5/4/2013 11:54 AM, Christophe F8ACF-56 wrote:
Good evening to all, is there a way to put off the K2 100 kPa for the 
10w version for travel and 100W QRP version home 73 , Christophe F8ACF-56


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[Elecraft] K2 and KPA 100

[Christophe F8ACF-56]

Good evening to all,

is there a way to put off the K2 100 kPa for the 10w version for travel and 
100W QRP version home
 
73 , Christophe F8ACF-56
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[Elecraft] K1 kit suggestions?

[Jim Hahn]

Can any of you that have or are building the K1 give me a heads up on any 
things to be aware of as this is my first time building a Elecraft kit?   I 
purchased the K1/4 band version kit.  I have built quite a few Heathkits back 
in the day however this of course was when everything was point to point 
wiring.Thanks for your input!  jim  AC6OM/1 in Maine
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[Elecraft] KX3 Beta firmware rev. 1.47: Easier NR adjustment; DVR message play dropout fixed

[Wayne Burdick]

KX3 beta firmware rev. 1.47 (with DSP rev 1.18) is now available. See release 
notes below. This release includes important stability improvements associated 
with DVR message play, noise reduction, notch filtering, and dual watch (DUAL 
RX). We recommend that all KX3 users upgrade to this revision. 

You'll need the KX3 Utility application to download and install firmware. For 
full instructions on loading beta releases, refer to our KX3 software page:

  http://www.elecraft.com/KX3/KX3_software.htm

Wayne
N6KR

* * *

MCU 1.47 / DSP 1.18, 4-30-2013

* DVR PLAY/REPEAT FIX: DVR play no longer drops messages.

* NOISE REDUCTION (NR) MORE EASILY ADJUSTABLE: The overall level of noise 
reduction can now be set using the knob above the NR switch (AF/RF-SQL). When 
NR is turned on, the present setting will be displayed on VFO B for about 2 
seconds. To select a new setting, rotate the knob before the display times out. 
The setting is independent for CW and voice modes. Note: The range of this 
parameter is 0-10 and corresponds to the “mix” or “M” parameter of the RX NR 
menu entry; see below.

* RX NR MENU ENTRY CHANGES: The RX NR menu entry can be used to adjust all 
three NR parameters (B=beta, D=decay, M=wet/dry mix). The M parameter now has a 
range of 0-10, matching the range available when the knob above the NR switch 
is used (see above). As before, all parameters can be adjusted separately for 
CW and voice modes. In most cases the factory default settings can be used for 
beta and decay, and the mix adjusted for the desired overall amount of NR using 
the knob (without using the menu). You can also now reset all NR parameters to 
factory defaults by holding CLR.

* DSP IMPROVEMENTS: Eliminated problems having to do with S-meter pinging, “ERR 
DSX” error messages, loss of audio, etc. (DSP-intensive functions including 
noise reduction, autonotch, and dual watch required optimized for minimum 
execution time.)
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[Elecraft] FS - KIO2 RS-232 Interface and Aux I/O for Elecraft K2 Transceiver. $30

[Dan - VA3MA]

KIO2 RS-232 Interface and Aux I/O for Elecraft K2 Transceiver
I have a partially completed KIO2 kit - I no longer have a K2
>From the Elecraft website ="You'll be able to do full computer control of the 
>K2 with the KIO2 installed, and you won't need an external level converter, 
>since the KIO2 provides true RS-232 levels. Compatible with most contesting 
>and logging software, as well as our own K2VOICE and K2REMOTE programs. The 
>KIO2 Programmer's Reference provides extensive information for those writing 
>custom K2 control programs. "
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[Elecraft] [WTB] [Want] KXSER cable

[Ray Sills]

HI Gang:

Would any of you have a KXSER (RS-232) cable (3.5mm to DB9-F) that is  
surplus to your needs and would want to sell?


Please contact direct (off list): raysills3  a t  verizon.n e t

Thanks & 73 de Ray
K2ULR
KX3 #211


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[Elecraft] Looking for a K3 or KX3

[NZ8J]

I am looking to buy a K3 or possibly a KX3.  Any configuration or
accessories considered.

If you have something to offer please send details to include serial
number, options and price shipped to:

n...@woh.rr.com



Thanks 
Tim
Nz8J
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[Elecraft] KX3 Mic alternative

[Philip Godbold]

Reading the list with respect to adding an internal mic - there is an easier 
option.

Take a 90 deg 4 pole mic plug and mount an electret insert inside.

Method

Open the plug cut the cable strain relief down to about 2.5mm  1/10 inch 
remaining from the end of the plug

Mount the electret insert behind this, inside of the plug.

Wire to ground and mic

Put a tiny piece of sponge in the end of the strain relief, close the plug.

You now have a miniature mic to use with VOX - it works !  

You can turn the mic to the direction required and it takes the minimum of 
space, you can even leave installed ready to use.

I have a picture available if needed.

Phil G4UDU  AG4ML


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Re: [Elecraft] 6 m reception comparing with KX3

[Stephen Prior]

Skip,

I can hear no difference on FM between the K3 and the KX3.  1uV from the
XG3 on 50.120 MHz gives much the same level of smooth noise from both
radios.  My KX3 is #434 so yours is not an 'age' issue,  there must be
something else wrong.

73 Stephen G4SJP


On 4 May 2013 02:56, Skip Davis  wrote:

> John and the group,
>
> From my experience I own both a K3 and KX3. I have found that the K3 hears
> better on 6m FM using the same antenna switching between both rigs. I have
> only used both on 6m in FM mode only in the 53 MHz range for a local
> repeater.
> The repeater will be S9 and clear on the K3 and will only be an S3 and
> noisy to the point it is almost unintelligible. On transmit running at 8
> watts both rigs I'm told are full quieting into the repeater.
> At one point before a firmware update I could only tell on the KX3 that
> the repeater was accessed and the beep tone was clear but audio sounded
> garbled. Any signal over S5 was clear.
> I am using all the preamp settings for 6 as outlined in the manual and I
> have the latest DSP and firmware loaded. Now having said all this my KX3
> serial number is under 1000 so I don't know if there was any changes to the
>  unit that my have addressed this or that mine is unique.
> I did noticed that on the schematics for the bandpass filters there is a
> outline for a LNA in the 6 meter bandpass filter. So I am wondering if this
> is already thought of and the boards are setup to accommodate one in the
> future, I hope so.
> Also as a side note when I hook up my FT817 to the same antenna the
> repeater is S9 and full quieting.
>
> Skip Davis
> NC9O
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal microphone

[Fred Smith]

Tom

I have 50' of coax that I run from the shack to the living room where I take
my KX3 and a small Power supply. I sit it on a TV table beside my recliner
with a laptop running and work DX with it on SSB using the hand mic. One
small matter I can only do that when the wife is gone but then I'm in real
comfort for QRP action 8>)


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100
P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom H Childers
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:02 AM
To: 'Elecraft Mailing List'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal microphone

Oops!

K3 in the second paragraph should b "KX3"

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

On Fri, 03 May 2013 09:54:40 -0500, Tom H Childers 
wrote:

>I can see it now.
>
>You're sitting in the easy chair, reading a book with a nice cup of tea 
>on the table beside the KX3.  You reach over to pick up the K3 then 
>raise it to your mouth to speak into the internal microphone.
>The coax cable knocks the tea cup over which dumps tea into your mini 
>power supply, causing it to lose all it's smoke and the power cord 
>pulls your YF's favorite lamp over and breaks it.
>
>One hour later your YF banishes you from the den.
>
>;o)
>
>73,
>Tom
>Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
>ARRL Lifetime Member
>QCWA Lifetime Member
>
>
>
>On Fri, 03 May 2013 06:31:15 -0700, Richard 
>wrote:
>
>>This is a good idea.  I have my KX3 in a camera flash bag.  Everything I
need fits into that bag-- except the hand mic.  An internal mic would make
it ' grab-n-go'. 
>>
>>Rich
>>NU6T
>>
>>Dave Lankshear  wrote:
>>
>>>That's a darned good idea, David.
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>I'm looking at a camera right now and its mic orifice is only about 
>>>half a mm in diameter and looking at the size of the camera, its 
>>>whizzy in and out lens, battery et al, the mic must be very small indeed.
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>Maybe a $20 retro-fit kit? Mic, wiring and a tiny drillbit Hi!
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>73 Dave G3TJP
>>>
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