Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM-500 (cushions)
Tryheadphones.com 73, RoyK6XK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K3/0 to K3 RemoteRig issue
Thanks a lot guys. Both of these explanations are excellent. I have been messing with routers for years, as we live in places that have complicated and multiple structures. I learned a lot from having to daisy-chain routers to get my wifi signals to cover a variety of places. We left New York City for Key West in 2010. In NYC we had Time Warner cable internet, pretty fast when the whole neighborhood wasn't home using it. The beauty of that was the modem was separate from the primary (most upstream) router. I could buy whatever router I wanted, and then run downstream routers, (some with little 500mw rf amps and bigger antennas) off of that one. I had no problem getting good results throughout our 5 story Manhattan brownstone by stringing wires up and down the outside of the building to downstream routers on each floor. I used, with good result, Linksys, D-Link and Netgear. BTW, not totally OT, it would be great to hear what people have to say about reliability and durability of all three ( or other ) brands. They are equally easy to set up and use, all with nice webpage interfaces, The ATT DSL and the more advanced ATT U-VERSE DSL use routers (2-Wire in the first case, Motorola in the 2nd) that DO NOT separate the modem from the router. I despair of trying to explain the problems this creates to an ATT customer service rep in St. Paul or Bangladesh. There are a gazillion posts on-line from people having problems with the Motorola NVG510. The only time I seriously messed with the 2-wire, before I upgraded to U-Verse service, I lost internet for the whole family for several days. I am tiptoeing around now to avoid a re-run. Several of the posts said they had solved the NVG510 problems by using that device just as a bridge and then putting a regular (maybe Linksys) router behind that to handle all the router functions. I assume bridge means essentially a modem only. I'd love to know more about that, but I am terrified to try much more messing with it. I am familiar with port-forwarding, as you have to port-forward to set up the radio-end RemoteRig for the remotely controlled K3. I also have a very robust remotely controlled Web7 power switch that lets me turn things on and off up at the big station in MD that I am remotely controlling. That also requires port-forwarding. I also leave a PC running in MD on an uninterruptible power supply, and I use that to move my rotor and control the KAT500 if needs be. I have put that on a static ip on the LAN. The external static ip that I need here in Key West, for which I pay $5 per month extra, is needed for a system of remotely viewable surveillance cameras. Those were installed by our alarm company, and they wanted me to get the static ip. My problems with the K3/0 started after that visit by the ATT technician. So, unwilling to try the bridge approach for fear of really getting screwed up, I tried plugging the RemoteRig Control unit into a downstream ( daisy-chained) router from the NVG510, and the problem went away. I am throwing no parades until this fix proves to be lasting, What was so bizarre in all this --- i should be able to take the K3/0 plus RemoteRig control box (RRC) to a local Starbucks and get on the air using wifi. I should not have to do more than change network addresses in the RRC. Why the NVG510 isn't similarly blind to the device attaching to it seems illogical. But, nevertheless, once the tech left, having set up 5 static external ip addresses, the RRC and K3/0 would turn on the remote K3, I could hear it, tune it, change modes, filters, key up, etc., but none of the changes made at the radio end were reflected in the front panel of the K3/0. It just sat there saying 21.000.00 CW. Now, having plugged the RRC in one box downstream, it all works again. Further mysteries remain, but I am going to pretend all is well. Sorry for this long screed, but I am hoping it will: A. Help someone else or B. Stimulate someone to offer a better fix. 73 to all. Happy Holidays to all. Brian, W3BW On Dec 20, 2013, at 1:02 AM, Alan Bloom n...@sonic.net wrote: This may be the blind leading the blind since I also am not a computer networking expert, but I've learned a few things in the School of Hard Knocks. On 12/19/2013 09:01 PM, Rick Tavan N6XI wrote: FWIW, I have just about completed a transition from slow DSL to moderately fast cable Internet (30Mb down, 2Mb up on a good day), motivated by the desire for smoother audio in my K3 Remote setup. In the process, I've learned more than I ever wanted to know about routers and, perhaps most important, their control facilities. It may be helpful to you, Brian, and others. Note that I am not an expert on modern, computer networking. If you are, you need read no further OK guys. Don't waste time on this. The problem is definitely the router. I cannot successfully ping my remote router in Maryland (where the remote
Re: [Elecraft] K-3 rig interface for N3FJP
I've been using N3FJP AClog with my K3 for over 5 years. Just do as posted above in the settings menu. It's just a matetr of matching the baud rate more than anything else. All the other settings match the K3 defaults and just make sure you have the baud rates matched. 73 Bill NZ0T -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K-3-rig-interface-for-N3FJP-tp7581835p7581872.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K1 Power Out vs. Current Draw
Wayne N6KR has addressed the matter of K1 transmit efficiency in his note at http://www.elecraft.com/TechNotes/k1_battery_op.htm Wayne's formula shows the most efficient power setting as a function of supply voltage. It's easy to remember: square the supply voltage and divide by 25. Basically, impedances need to be matched at DC in for greatest DC efficiency, just as they do at RF out for greatest RF efficiency. As the battery voltage decreases, the optimal K1 power setting will also decrease, but quadratically--not linearly. The voltage that should be used in the calculations is that displayed by the K1, that is, after reduction for the loss in the polarity-protection diode. 73, Paul W8TM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K3/0 to K3 RemoteRig issue
I ran an internet service provider for a couple of decades. The sad part of this is that there is a standard solution to all of this, the same one that works for Skype and BitTorrent. The radio end needs to send a message to some central server (run by RemoteRig) that says I'm on, my 'name' is N1AL or whatever identifier seems reasonable. The server sees the message, gets the apparent public IP from the header, and records it. The updates have to be every minute or two, but they can be UDP to minimize bandwidth and connections. The client (at Starbucks) sends a message to the central server saying I want to operate N1AL and the server says connect to this IP using these port numbers. The next time the station checks in (about half the update interval on average) the server tells the station connect to the operator's IP using these port numbers. Because the typical firewall opens up circuits for outgoing connections, the NAT firewall at Starbucks and the NAT firewall at the station both open the correct ports, thinking that they're connecting out, and not realizing they're being tricked into allowing a connection in -- it's okay because it has been coordinated through the central server. No static IP addresses, no messing with port forwarding, no trying to get your IT department to let you operate during your lunch break. There are a few missing details, but that's how most everything else works. -- Lynn On 12/20/2013 5:15 AM, bwru...@gmail.com wrote: What was so bizarre in all this --- i should be able to take the K3/0 plus RemoteRig control box (RRC) to a local Starbucks and get on the air using wifi. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha cm500 earpads
On the surface, they look like common ear pads, very much like Heil or Sony uses. I use ear pad covers on all mine. Keeps the oil off the vinyl so it should, in theory, last longer. --- 73 de W3AB/GEO http://www.w3ab.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: filter for those with nearby AM broadcast stations
On 12/19/2013 8:13 PM, Bill Frantz wrote: When I was recently testing some Collins gear, built between 1960 and 1975 for a local woman who inherited it and wanted to sell it, I noticed that the RF connections were RCA jacks. The RF output from the transmitter which was rated 160 watts input to the final amplifier was a RCA jack. (The manual said it was about 100 watts output.) The only exception was the high power amp which had RCA for input and N for output. How things have changed. When Collins came out with the RCA jacks early in my ham career, it made a very heavy push that only a 50-ohm load be connected to it - lest the jack self-destruct from a standing-wave high voltage! 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K3/0 to K3 RemoteRig issue
here is a you tube video to bridge your uverse router to use your own device http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpYROv9Fjis From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of bwru...@gmail.com [bwru...@gmail.com] Sent: Friday, December 20, 2013 5:15 AM To: Alan Bloom Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K3/0 to K3 RemoteRig issue Thanks a lot guys. Both of these explanations are excellent. I have been messing with routers for years, as we live in places that have complicated and multiple structures. I learned a lot from having to daisy-chain routers to get my wifi signals to cover a variety of places. We left New York City for Key West in 2010. In NYC we had Time Warner cable internet, pretty fast when the whole neighborhood wasn't home using it. The beauty of that was the modem was separate from the primary (most upstream) router. I could buy whatever router I wanted, and then run downstream routers, (some with little 500mw rf amps and bigger antennas) off of that one. I had no problem getting good results throughout our 5 story Manhattan brownstone by stringing wires up and down the outside of the building to downstream routers on each floor. I used, with good result, Linksys, D-Link and Netgear. BTW, not totally OT, it would be great to hear what people have to say about reliability and durability of all three ( or other ) brands. They are equally easy to set up and use, all with nice webpage interfaces, The ATT DSL and the more advanced ATT U-VERSE DSL use routers (2-Wire in the first case, Motorola in the 2nd) that DO NOT separate the modem from the router. I despair of trying to explain the problems this creates to an ATT customer service rep in St. Paul or Bangladesh. There are a gazillion posts on-line from people having problems with the Motorola NVG510. The only time I seriously messed with the 2-wire, before I upgraded to U-Verse service, I lost internet for the whole family for several days. I am tiptoeing around now to avoid a re-run. Several of the posts said they had solved the NVG510 problems by using that device just as a bridge and then putting a regular (maybe Linksys) router behind that to handle all the router functions. I assume bridge means essentially a modem only. I'd love to know more about that, but I am terrified to try much more messing with it. I am familiar with port-forwarding, as you have to port-forward to set up the radio-end RemoteRig for the remotely controlled K3. I also have a very robust remotely controlled Web7 power switch that lets me turn things on and off up at the big station in MD that I am remotely controlling. That also requires port-forwarding. I also leave a PC running in MD on an uninterruptible power supply, and I use that to move my rotor and control the KAT500 if needs be. I have put that on a static ip on the LAN. The external static ip that I need here in Key West, for which I pay $5 per month extra, is needed for a system of remotely viewable surveillance cameras. Those were installed by our alarm company, and they wanted me to get the static ip. My problems with the K3/0 started after that visit by the ATT technician. So, unwilling to try the bridge approach for fear of really getting screwed up, I tried plugging the RemoteRig Control unit into a downstream ( daisy-chained) router from the NVG510, and the problem went away. I am throwing no parades until this fix proves to be lasting, What was so bizarre in all this --- i should be able to take the K3/0 plus RemoteRig control box (RRC) to a local Starbucks and get on the air using wifi. I should not have to do more than change network addresses in the RRC. Why the NVG510 isn't similarly blind to the device attaching to it seems illogical. But, nevertheless, once the tech left, having set up 5 static external ip addresses, the RRC and K3/0 would turn on the remote K3, I could hear it, tune it, change modes, filters, key up, etc., but none of the changes made at the radio end were reflected in the front panel of the K3/0. It just sat there saying 21.000.00 CW. Now, having plugged the RRC in one box downstream, it all works again. Further mysteries remain, but I am going to pretend all is well. Sorry for this long screed, but I am hoping it will: A. Help someone else or B. Stimulate someone to offer a better fix. 73 to all. Happy Holidays to all. Brian, W3BW On Dec 20, 2013, at 1:02 AM, Alan Bloom n...@sonic.net wrote: This may be the blind leading the blind since I also am not a computer networking expert, but I've learned a few things in the School of Hard Knocks. On 12/19/2013 09:01 PM, Rick Tavan N6XI wrote: FWIW, I have just about completed a transition from slow DSL to moderately fast cable Internet (30Mb down, 2Mb up on a good day), motivated by the desire for smoother audio in my K3 Remote setup. In
[Elecraft] K3 Macro Problem
Hi everyone.. Merry Christmas to all!! I have two macros that I use to select the audio input to my K3. Macro 1 selects the mic input on the front and Macro 2 selects Line In on the back. Here is what they look like. Macro 1: MN053;DN;DN;DN;MN255; Macro 2: MN053;DN;DN;DN;UP;MN255; Macro 1 works great. However, Macro 2 leaves the K3 display at the MIC SEL. They worked previously when I set them up about a year ago and today, poof, no work. Ideas? Thoughts? You can respond on list or off list. Thanks. Larry, KN8N __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K3/0 to K3 RemoteRig issue
That is great. I will do it as soon as I get another router. Query: what router brands and models have folks had the most success with --- especially freedom from failure? Thanks so much, Chris! 73 de Brian -- 70 is the new 40. Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A. 1107 Key Plaza, PMB 447 Key West, FL 33040 Summers: P.O.Box 57, 7400 Augustine Herman Highway, Georgetown, MD 21930 eFax 305.768.0278 Skype bwruble On Dec 20, 2013, at 1:49 PM, Chris Tate - N6WM ct...@ewnetinc.com wrote: here is a you tube video to bridge your uverse router to use your own device http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpYROv9Fjis __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Macro Problem
Larry, Try reloading the macros with the utility. I have occasionally had the same behavior, and reloading the macros cleared up the problem. 73, Hoop K9QJS On Dec 20, 2013, at 11:49 , Larry Boekeloo lboeke...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Hi everyone.. Merry Christmas to all!! I have two macros that I use to select the audio input to my K3. Macro 1 selects the mic input on the front and Macro 2 selects Line In on the back. Here is what they look like. Macro 1: MN053;DN;DN;DN;MN255; Macro 2: MN053;DN;DN;DN;UP;MN255; Macro 1 works great. However, Macro 2 leaves the K3 display at the MIC SEL. They worked previously when I set them up about a year ago and today, poof, no work. Ideas? Thoughts? You can respond on list or off list. Thanks. Larry, KN8N __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: filter for those with nearby AM broadcast
“When I was recently testing some Collins gear, built between 1960 and 1975 for a local woman who inherited it and wanted to sell it, I noticed that the RF connections were RCA jacks. The RF output from the transmitter which was rated 160 watts input to the final amplifier was a RCA jack. (The manual said it was about 100 watts output.) The only exception was the high power amp which had RCA for input and N for output. How things have changed.Cheers - Bill AE6JV” My Heathkit SB-line also used RCA connectors for up to 100-watt interfaces. Phil – AD5X __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K3/0 to K3 RemoteRig issue
Exactly. I have a friend who uses this service so he can always reach his home network by name without having a static IP. Perhaps this can be of use to some on the list. http://dyn.com/support/clients/ And it has been working very well according to him. David K0LUM On Dec 20, 2013, at 11:46 AM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote: I ran an internet service provider for a couple of decades. The sad part of this is that there is a standard solution to all of this, the same one that works for Skype and BitTorrent. The radio end needs to send a message to some central server (run by RemoteRig) that says I'm on, my 'name' is N1AL or whatever identifier seems reasonable. The server sees the message, gets the apparent public IP from the header, and records it. The updates have to be every minute or two, but they can be UDP to minimize bandwidth and connections. The client (at Starbucks) sends a message to the central server saying I want to operate N1AL and the server says connect to this IP using these port numbers. The next time the station checks in (about half the update interval on average) the server tells the station connect to the operator's IP using these port numbers. Because the typical firewall opens up circuits for outgoing connections, the NAT firewall at Starbucks and the NAT firewall at the station both open the correct ports, thinking that they're connecting out, and not realizing they're being tricked into allowing a connection in -- it's okay because it has been coordinated through the central server. No static IP addresses, no messing with port forwarding, no trying to get your IT department to let you operate during your lunch break. There are a few missing details, but that's how most everything else works. -- Lynn __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K3/0 to K3 RemoteRig issue
Dynamic DNS services are a different way of achieving a similar goal. What they don't do is free someone from configuring a firewall at the radio-end. The method I outlined works with just about every translating firewall. You don't have to mess with pass-thrus or proxies or know port numbers or fiddle with a DMZ (which is never a true DMZ). You don't even care about the private IP of the radio end or how many times the address gets translated. On 12/20/2013 12:52 PM, David Christ wrote: Exactly. I have a friend who uses this service so he can always reach his home network by name without having a static IP. Perhaps this can be of use to some on the list. http://dyn.com/support/clients/ And it has been working very well according to him. David K0LUM On Dec 20, 2013, at 11:46 AM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote: I ran an internet service provider for a couple of decades. The sad part of this is that there is a standard solution to all of this, the same one that works for Skype and BitTorrent. The radio end needs to send a message to some central server (run by RemoteRig) that says I'm on, my 'name' is N1AL or whatever identifier seems reasonable. The server sees the message, gets the apparent public IP from the header, and records it. The updates have to be every minute or two, but they can be UDP to minimize bandwidth and connections. The client (at Starbucks) sends a message to the central server saying I want to operate N1AL and the server says connect to this IP using these port numbers. The next time the station checks in (about half the update interval on average) the server tells the station connect to the operator's IP using these port numbers. Because the typical firewall opens up circuits for outgoing connections, the NAT firewall at Starbucks and the NAT firewall at the station both open the correct ports, thinking that they're connecting out, and not realizing they're being tricked into allowing a connection in -- it's okay because it has been coordinated through the central server. No static IP addresses, no messing with port forwarding, no trying to get your IT department to let you operate during your lunch break. There are a few missing details, but that's how most everything else works. -- Lynn __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Fwd: Fwd: K3/0 to K3 RemoteRig issue
For those of you have been following this, here is a text message string with the ATT tech who installed my router. He is a good guy. Me: OK, I think I worked around my problem, but I don't much care for the Motorola router. Tech: Everybody hates it. Me: I am going to set it up as a bridge and put an Asus router behind it. Tech: That's what a lot of people do, cascade a router. 73 de Brian W3BW *Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A. *70 is the new 40.* * Mail: 1107 Key Plaza, PMB 447 Key West, FL 33040-4077 Summers: P.O.Box 57, 7400 Augustine Herman Highway, Georgetown, MD 21930 eFax 305.768.0278 -- Forwarded message -- From: bwru...@gmail.com bwru...@gmail.com Date: Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 3:06 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K3/0 to K3 RemoteRig issue To: Chris Tate - N6WM ct...@ewnetinc.com Cc: Alan Bloom n...@sonic.net, elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net That is great. I will do it as soon as I get another router. Query: what router brands and models have folks had the most success with --- especially freedom from failure? Thanks so much, Chris! 73 de Brian -- 70 is the new 40. Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A. 1107 Key Plaza, PMB 447 Key West, FL 33040 Summers: P.O.Box 57, 7400 Augustine Herman Highway, Georgetown, MD 21930 eFax 305.768.0278 Skype bwruble On Dec 20, 2013, at 1:49 PM, Chris Tate - N6WM ct...@ewnetinc.com wrote: here is a you tube video to bridge your uverse router to use your own device http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpYROv9Fjis __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] JT9
Anyone know what version of WSJT has JT9 and the sub modes. I know that it's not WSJT-X , WSJT-X has only JT9-1. Thanks Ken K5DNL / WG2XXM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Odd K3 behavior
I am experiencing the following behaviors with one of my K3s: -I am unable to vary the PB shift. I rotate the knob without change -The wings on the PB display are present even if I change the PB width -In CW the + is on in the lower right hand corner of the display Any assistance is greatly appreciated 73 HH, MC, HNY Gregg w6izt __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Configuration instructions
Bill, I do, in fact, have a copy of the first edition of Fred's book. I forgot it was on the shelf. At your suggestion I'm going back through it to get some ideas and already like what I've read. Thanks, 73, Happy Holidays, and all that jazz! -- Ian Ian Kahn, KM4IK Roswell, GA EM74ua km4ik@gmail.com K3 #281, P3 #688, KPA500 #1468 HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill W2BLC Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 3:22 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Configuration instructions You should have a copy of of Fred Cady's book at hand. Everything about the K3 is fully explained in same. Well worth buying. The Elecraft operator manual leaves a lot unexplained well enough to understand for mere mortals. Have fun - you will probably tinker for far more than a couple of hours. It is nearly endless what you can do with the settings of a K3 - making it a personalized rig fully designed for your personal needs and uses. Don't be afraid of making all your changes right from the panel. You do NOT need special software - however, you can use K3_EZ. I have done it both ways. For a good explanation of settings for the K3 receiver, take a look at http://www.w3fpr.com/K3_AGC.htmor, you can copy my settings at http://www.w2blc.net/K3.htm Bill W2BLC K-Line __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Odd K3 behavior
Turn off CONFIG:CW QRQ ... if CW QRQ is enabled several other functions are disabled. Check the Owners Manual for details. 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 12/20/2013 5:41 PM, Gregg W6IZT wrote: I am experiencing the following behaviors with one of my K3s: -I am unable to vary the PB shift. I rotate the knob without change -The wings on the PB display are present even if I change the PB width -In CW the + is on in the lower right hand corner of the display Any assistance is greatly appreciated 73 HH, MC, HNY Gregg w6izt __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Transmitter performance
I have recently received a copy of a publication known as DUBUS (for those outside of Europe, this is a technical publication dedicated to VHF, UHF and SHF equipment design and operating) and one particular article caught my eye. The reason being that I'd suffered from some wide bandwidth signals from a semi-local beacon during a band opening on 23cm where the transmitted signal from the beacon could be detected over a large frequency spread. The issue, in this case, was apparently down to the power supply used by the beacon. Now, in the article in DUBUS 3/2013 (Vol 42) a description of potential problems for various Amateur radios from the quality of their transmissions was discussed and a table of 'good', 'reasonable' and 'poor' results from tests taken from ARRL and Sherwood Engineering data (which I know people from Elecraft are often more than happy to quote, so I would guess it passes some engineering muster...) were presented showing not only the receiver performance, but the transmitter performance as well. Without wanting to quote the whole table (there may be copyright issues of course) but the K3 came top (distant cheering heard from Aptos, CA) but the KX3 came 6th. The criteria for the ranking being a TX Wide measurement in -dBc and the K3 scored 128@100kHZz or 120@360kHz - which only seemed to be included as two radios from a rival company were both ranked at the bottom of the table and could muster no better than a measurement in 300 and 350kHz bandwidth) but the KX3 scored 107@100kHz. The reason that this is important is that, in an area where people are tightly packed together, someone using a transmitter that generates significant wide band noise within a particular Amateur band is not the sort of neighbour that you want to have next to you on the VHF/UHF/SHF bands. You might be listening on, say 144.050MHz but if they are transmitting on, say, 144.350MHz then their wideband noise will affect you and, as is stated in the article, they may not even to be transmitting to generate significant signal levels. So, to my question. As I'm interested in VHF/UHF/SHF more than HF, why is the KX3 transmitter performance worse than the K3 and, other than selling the KX3 (which I'd prefer not to do) and buying a K3 (which is attractive, but financially a bit of a problem) what, if anything, can I do to improve the 'TX Wide' performance of my KX3? Dave (G0DJA) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Transmitter performance
I hate it when that happens! I missed deleting the capital Z that should not have been there. Sorry. As annoying as mW instead of MW (or even the other way round) and Kwh instead of kWh in my book... Dave (G0DJA) - Original Message - in -dBc and the K3 scored 128@100kHZz __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
Background: I got into ham radio back in the 1970s, getting my license at age 12, then life moved on and my license expired. Recently, going through my dad’s stuff after he passed away, I found his license, which brought back many fond memories, so I decided to get back into it. Now: I just passed the Technician and General test (no call sign yet) and have been looking at the state of the art - HOLY SMOKES have things changed! Anyhow, after a lot of research, I’ve decided to get a K3, but before that, I need an antenna. The K3 (with amp) outputs 100W. I’m pretty sure that I’m going with an inverted-L antenna, which requires a remote antenna tuner at its base. One promising remote tuner is the SG-230, but it can only handle “80 watts continuous.” My question: In CW mode, how much power does the K3 output? (assuming worst-case key down 100%). If the answer is “100W”, what remote tuner are you guys using with inverted-Lsand your K3s? Yes, I know that the K3 can have a built-in tuner, but I don’t think it can work with an inverted-L. Kurt – currently call-sign-less, but who was once WB6DSW. (I understand about keeping posts short, but this is my intro post. Follow-ons will be shorter :) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] FT-817
I'm trying to set my FT-817 to 5 watts output. The manual says If you set the power to 5 watts, the power level icon is the same as for 2.5 watt operation, but at 5 watts the icon is blinking. My 2.5 icon does not blink. Right now the icon looks like L))) but no blinking. When I press A, I can change the icon from L))) to L)), to L), then a blank icon screen and then back to L))) but no blinking. Any ideas pse? Tnx 72/73 Bruce ve5rc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] FT-817
I think that's only on battery power. 73,Rick W3BI From: ratt...@accesscomm.ca To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; q...@yahoogroups.com; memb...@qrp-canada.com Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:49:04 -0600 Subject: [Elecraft] FT-817 I'm trying to set my FT-817 to 5 watts output. The manual says If you set the power to 5 watts, the power level icon is the same as for 2.5 watt operation, but at 5 watts the icon is blinking. My 2.5 icon does not blink. Right now the icon looks like L))) but no blinking. When I press A, I can change the icon from L))) to L)), to L), then a blank icon screen and then back to L))) but no blinking. Any ideas pse? Tnx 72/73 Bruce ve5rc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
Hi Mini Builder Kurt I run a K3 at 100 watts to a H-Gain Hy-Tower with a MFJ-927 tuner at the base. It is specified to match from 6 to 1600 ohms and handle 200 watts SSB and CW. It gets the 12 volts feed on the same coax as the RF signal. I have had my MFJ-927 for several years and in North Dakota it has had to work from 35 degrees below zero to 110 degrees above with no problem. I know you will get many more recommendations so I won't feel bad whatever you decide. Good luck and welcome back to ham radio. 73 Ken W0CZ w...@i29.net Sent from my iPad On Dec 20, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Mini Builder kiminicoop...@yahoo.com wrote: Background: I got into ham radio back in the 1970s, getting my license at age 12, then life moved on and my license expired. Recently, going through my dad’s stuff after he passed away, I found his license, which brought back many fond memories, so I decided to get back into it. Now: I just passed the Technician and General test (no call sign yet) and have been looking at the state of the art - HOLY SMOKES have things changed! Anyhow, after a lot of research, I’ve decided to get a K3, but before that, I need an antenna. The K3 (with amp) outputs 100W. I’m pretty sure that I’m going with an inverted-L antenna, which requires a remote antenna tuner at its base. One promising remote tuner is the SG-230, but it can only handle “80 watts continuous.” My question: In CW mode, how much power does the K3 output? (assuming worst-case key down 100%). If the answer is “100W”, what remote tuner are you guys using with inverted-Lsand your K3s? Yes, I know that the K3 can have a built-in tuner, but I don’t think it can work with an inverted-L. Kurt – currently call-sign-less, but who was once WB6DSW. (I understand about keeping posts short, but this is my intro post. Follow-ons will be shorter :) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] FT-817
Do you have external power hooked up? That is an internal battery option. If the external power source is hooked up when there are no icons you have five watts. 73 Scotty NU0S Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID Bruce Rattray ratt...@accesscomm.ca wrote: I'm trying to set my FT-817 to 5 watts output. The manual says If you set the power to 5 watts, the power level icon is the same as for 2.5 watt operation, but at 5 watts the icon is blinking. My 2.5 icon does not blink. Right now the icon looks like L))) but no blinking. When I press A, I can change the icon from L))) to L)), to L), then a blank icon screen and then back to L))) but no blinking. Any ideas pse? Tnx 72/73 Bruce ve5rc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
Welcome back to a great hobby Kurt!! I have an inverted L because my shack is at one extreme end of the best space to run a wire on my property. My L goes straight up 40 feet and horizontally just a tad over 60 feet for a bit above 100 feet overall. MATCHING TO THE ANTENNA The K3's ATU and the KAT500 both load it fine. To keep me away from the hot antenna, I use the KAT500 on a shelf above the operating desk. The trick to making it work is two-fold: 1) Use the best ground that you can if you work 160 with it (on 80 through 10 it's fine with a minimal ground, but something is good to keep the rig from floating high with RF voltage that can cause problems with the rig's circuits and which will cause your SWR to jump around when you touch the rig). A couple of wires on the ground, a connection to a metal water pipe, etc., are probably fine. 2) Be willing to tinker with the length a bit, if needed, so the tuner can find a match on all bands. The most difficult band is where the wire is near 1/2 wavelength long (80 meters for me). That's where the impedance is highest. Once you have it working on the band closest to where the antenna is 1/2 wavelength long, it should do fine on all of the others. When the wire is longer than 1/2 wavelength, the impedance it presents is never as extreme. The challenge with any tuner is to never present an impedance that produces voltages in the tuner that exceed its ratings. POWER RATING The SG230 is an excellent remote tuner. The critical rating is the peak which is 200 watts. The 80 watts continuous presumes that you put a brick on your key and leave it transmitting. We don't do that in normal CW operation. The SG230 will handle well over 100 watts in normal CW mode. Now, if you get into operating full-carrier A.M., you might want to limit your output power to 100 watts if you tend to be very long-winded, Hi! 73 Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mini Builder Sent: Friday, December 20, 2013 6:45 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners Background: I got into ham radio back in the 1970s, getting my license at age 12, then life moved on and my license expired. Recently, going through my dad’s stuff after he passed away, I found his license, which brought back many fond memories, so I decided to get back into it. Now: I just passed the Technician and General test (no call sign yet) and have been looking at the state of the art - HOLY SMOKES have things changed! Anyhow, after a lot of research, I’ve decided to get a K3, but before that, I need an antenna. The K3 (with amp) outputs 100W. I’m pretty sure that I’m going with an inverted-L antenna, which requires a remote antenna tuner at its base. One promising remote tuner is the SG-230, but it can only handle “80 watts continuous.” My question: In CW mode, how much power does the K3 output? (assuming worst-case key down 100%). If the answer is “100W”, what remote tuner are you guys using with inverted-Lsand your K3s? Yes, I know that the K3 can have a built-in tuner, but I don’t think it can work with an inverted-L. Kurt – currently call-sign-less, but who was once WB6DSW. (I understand about keeping posts short, but this is my intro post. Follow-ons will be shorter :) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
Hello Mini Builder Welcome back. The K3 internal tuner is the best choice. I have used tuners of every stripe and Elecraft internal tuners have a very wide tuning range and will match everything that my other tuners won't. Why do you need a remote tuner? If you only have one antenna - you need a multiband antenna that is a wire. An inverted L will need a lot of radials to be efficient and is good for the low bands. Various wire antennas which do not need radials will do you better for 40-10m. A K3 tuner will tune an inverted L provided you cut it right. It will also tune wires of every stripe. Ariel NY4G Sent from my iPad On Dec 20, 2013, at 9:44 PM, Mini Builder kiminicoop...@yahoo.com wrote: Background: I got into ham radio back in the 1970s, getting my license at age 12, then life moved on and my license expired. Recently, going through my dad’s stuff after he passed away, I found his license, which brought back many fond memories, so I decided to get back into it. Now: I just passed the Technician and General test (no call sign yet) and have been looking at the state of the art - HOLY SMOKES have things changed! Anyhow, after a lot of research, I’ve decided to get a K3, but before that, I need an antenna. The K3 (with amp) outputs 100W. I’m pretty sure that I’m going with an inverted-L antenna, which requires a remote antenna tuner at its base. One promising remote tuner is the SG-230, but it can only handle “80 watts continuous.” My question: In CW mode, how much power does the K3 output? (assuming worst-case key down 100%). If the answer is “100W”, what remote tuner are you guys using with inverted-Lsand your K3s? Yes, I know that the K3 can have a built-in tuner, but I don’t think it can work with an inverted-L. Kurt – currently call-sign-less, but who was once WB6DSW. (I understand about keeping posts short, but this is my intro post. Follow-ons will be shorter :) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
Thanks, guys. My reasoning for thinking that I need a remote tuner is that 1. It’s recommended in about every reference I've seen, and B. What’s the alternative? I assume it means going straight to coax (probably through a balun) at the feed point, and putting up with whatever mismatch there is, correct? Anyone know how much of a mismatch the K3 can handle? I know it's around 10:1 SWR, but what about impedance? Yes, I know about the importance of a good ground on an inverted-L, that's definitely on the list. On Friday, December 20, 2013 7:06 PM, Ariel Jacala n...@hotmail.com wrote: Hello Mini Builder Welcome back. The K3 internal tuner is the best choice. I have used tuners of every stripe and Elecraft internal tuners have a very wide tuning range and will match everything that my other tuners won't. Why do you need a remote tuner? If you only have one antenna - you need a multiband antenna that is a wire. An inverted L will need a lot of radials to be efficient and is good for the low bands. Various wire antennas which do not need radials will do you better for 40-10m. A K3 tuner will tune an inverted L provided you cut it right. It will also tune wires of every stripe. Ariel NY4G Sent from my iPad On Dec 20, 2013, at 9:44 PM, Mini Builder kiminicoop...@yahoo.com wrote: Background: I got into ham radio back in the 1970s, getting my license at age 12, then life moved on and my license expired. Recently, going through my dad’s stuff after he passed away, I found his license, which brought back many fond memories, so I decided to get back into it. Now: I just passed the Technician and General test (no call sign yet) and have been looking at the state of the art - HOLY SMOKES have things changed! Anyhow, after a lot of research, I’ve decided to get a K3, but before that, I need an antenna. The K3 (with amp) outputs 100W. I’m pretty sure that I’m going with an inverted-L antenna, which requires a remote antenna tuner at its base. One promising remote tuner is the SG-230, but it can only handle “80 watts continuous.” My question: In CW mode, how much power does the K3 output? (assuming worst-case key down 100%). If the answer is “100W”, what remote tuner are you guys using with inverted-Lsand your K3s? Yes, I know that the K3 can have a built-in tuner, but I don’t think it can work with an inverted-L. Kurt – currently call-sign-less, but who was once WB6DSW. (I understand about keeping posts short, but this is my intro post. Follow-ons will be shorter :) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net/ Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
Kurt, I have a K3 with tuner and amp. I have a 65 foot tower with a 3 element SteppIR antenna. Before Hurricane Ike I installed an inverted L with a homemade 80 meter trap. The tower supports the trap and the 80 meter portion runs from a ground stake with 5 50 foot long radials. Ike broke all the elements off my beam and while I had the beam down for repair I used the inverted L on all bands, 160 through 6 with a RG8X feed about 125 feet long and the internal tuner on the K3. I have also used the K3 with internal tuner to tune a 106 foot long wire on a submarine on all bands. I recommend you buy the K3 with the amp and tuner and skip the remote tuner. Remember, the vertical part of the inverted L does nearly all the work and the horizontal part contributes very little, so make the vertical part of the wire as long as you can. With 50 or 60 foot vertical it will be a good dx antenna. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart From: Mini Builder kiminicoop...@yahoo.com To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, December 20, 2013 8:44 PM Subject: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners Background: I got into ham radio back in the 1970s, getting my license at age 12, then life moved on and my license expired. Recently, going through my dad’s stuff after he passed away, I found his license, which brought back many fond memories, so I decided to get back into it. Now: I just passed the Technician and General test (no call sign yet) and have been looking at the state of the art - HOLY SMOKES have things changed! Anyhow, after a lot of research, I’ve decided to get a K3, but before that, I need an antenna. The K3 (with amp) outputs 100W. I’m pretty sure that I’m going with an inverted-L antenna, which requires a remote antenna tuner at its base. One promising remote tuner is the SG-230, but it can only handle “80 watts continuous.” My question: In CW mode, how much power does the K3 output? (assuming worst-case key down 100%). If the answer is “100W”, what remote tuner are you guys using with inverted-Lsand your K3s? Yes, I know that the K3 can have a built-in tuner, but I don’t think it can work with an inverted-L. Kurt – currently call-sign-less, but who was once WB6DSW. (I understand about keeping posts short, but this is my intro post. Follow-ons will be shorter :) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
On 12/20/2013 7:22 PM, Mini Builder wrote: My reasoning for thinking that I need a remote tuner is that 1. It’s recommended in about every reference I've seen, and B. That's probably because the writers aren't good engineers. See below. What’s the alternative? Coax to a turner in the shack. Depending on the type of coax, the length of the coax and the degree of mismatch, loss in the coax may be a lot less than you think. If you're going to put the tuner in the shack, spend the money for bigger coax -- a good RG8 or RG213 designed for transmitting that has a robust copper braid shield. I assume it means going straight to coax (probably through a balun) Not a balun, a common mode choke. See http://k9yc.com\RFI-Ham.pdf at the feed point, and putting up with whatever mismatch there is, correct? Anyone know how much of a mismatch the K3 can handle? I know it's around 10:1 SWR, but what about impedance? Yes, I know about the importance of a good ground on an inverted-L, Ground is the wrong word, and the wrong concept. What is needed is a good radial field, or, second best, a good counterpoise. Indeed, a connection to the earth degrades antenna performance! See the piece on my website about getting on 160M from a small lot. It's mostly about antennas, and the radial/counterpoise concept is thoroughly discussed. http://k9yc.com\publish.htm Obviously, divide the lengths by 2 for 80M, by 4 for 40M, and so on. While you're on that website, take a look at the Power Point about If I Could Mount My HF Vertical on My Roof, Should I? And the remote tuner or tuner in the shack? is addressed in the Power Point about the 43 Ft vertical. Welcome back to the hobby! Antennas are one of the most fun parts for me. (Contesting is first.) 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
Kurt, I have 5 separate wire antennas: a 160M Inv-L, a 80M inv-L, a 40M vert, a 30M vert a 20M vert. I've got 45 or so long radials attached to a radial plate. An Ameritron RCS-8V Remote Coax Switch allows me to select which of the 5 antennas to use. I have no external tuner to the K3. I use those antennas for these bands. I do have an internal tuner in the K3 to make its circuitry happy not fold back power. 16o Inv-L = 160M, 15M, 12M, 10M +6M 80 Inv-L = 80M, 17M + 12M 40M vert = 40M + 15M 30M vert = 30M 20M vert = 20M SWR readings via a LP-100A Watt Meter 160M = 1.19 SWR 80M = 1.70 40M = 1.48 30M = 2.05 20M = 1.79 17M = 1.29 (80M inv-L) 15M = 2.39 (160M inv-L) + 1.12 (40M Vert) 12M = 2.38 (160M inv-L) + 1.69 (80M Inv-L) 10M = 1.91 (160M Inv-L) 6M = 1.45 (160M Inv-L) I have no problem loading my tube amp into this system and on 15M 12M I listen on each of the two antenna options for the loudest signal that I want to work use that antenna. Though I do get 6M, there's enough coax loss that I don't bother doing much on 6M other than give out points for those in 6M contests that can hear me. Pretty much though if I can hear it I can work it (unless it's a pileup on a new DXpedition, then I have to wait till those with nice beams start to taper off) Hihi. I would like 1.1 across the bands but I don't know that it will make any difference on either end. YMMV Just another option 73, Gary KA1J snip I´ve decided to get a K3, but before that, I need an antenna. The K3 (with amp) outputs 100W. I´m pretty sure that I´m going with an inverted-L antenna, which requires a remote antenna tuner at its base. One promising remote tuner is the SG-230, but it can only handle 80 watts continuous. My question: In CW mode, how much power does the K3 output? (assuming worst-case key down 100%). If the answer is 100W, what remote tuner are you guys using with inverted-Lsand your K3s? Yes, I know that the K3 can have a built-in tuner, but I don´t think it can work with an inverted-L. Kurt - currently call-sign-less, but who was once WB6DSW. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
Kurt, I have yet to find any reasonable antenna that my K3 tuner will not match except extremely short. There are no absolutes in antennas. The remote antenna matching device will be a little more efficient and will depend on what kind of coax you use and how long the coax. Bear in mind that a lot of people use QRP which is more loss than a horrendous swr on 100 feet of small coax. From what you are telling us, you will be much better off with the built in tuner. The K3 will put out at least 100 watts on all bands through 6 meters. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart From: Mini Builder kiminicoop...@yahoo.com To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, December 20, 2013 9:22 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners Thanks, guys. My reasoning for thinking that I need a remote tuner is that 1. It’s recommended in about every reference I've seen, and B. What’s the alternative? I assume it means going straight to coax (probably through a balun) at the feed point, and putting up with whatever mismatch there is, correct? Anyone know how much of a mismatch the K3 can handle? I know it's around 10:1 SWR, but what about impedance? Yes, I know about the importance of a good ground on an inverted-L, that's definitely on the list. On Friday, December 20, 2013 7:06 PM, Ariel Jacala n...@hotmail.com wrote: Hello Mini Builder Welcome back. The K3 internal tuner is the best choice. I have used tuners of every stripe and Elecraft internal tuners have a very wide tuning range and will match everything that my other tuners won't. Why do you need a remote tuner? If you only have one antenna - you need a multiband antenna that is a wire. An inverted L will need a lot of radials to be efficient and is good for the low bands. Various wire antennas which do not need radials will do you better for 40-10m. A K3 tuner will tune an inverted L provided you cut it right. It will also tune wires of every stripe. Ariel NY4G Sent from my iPad On Dec 20, 2013, at 9:44 PM, Mini Builder kiminicoop...@yahoo.com wrote: Background: I got into ham radio back in the 1970s, getting my license at age 12, then life moved on and my license expired. Recently, going through my dad’s stuff after he passed away, I found his license, which brought back many fond memories, so I decided to get back into it. Now: I just passed the Technician and General test (no call sign yet) and have been looking at the state of the art - HOLY SMOKES have things changed! Anyhow, after a lot of research, I’ve decided to get a K3, but before that, I need an antenna. The K3 (with amp) outputs 100W. I’m pretty sure that I’m going with an inverted-L antenna, which requires a remote antenna tuner at its base. One promising remote tuner is the SG-230, but it can only handle “80 watts continuous.” My question: In CW mode, how much power does the K3 output? (assuming worst-case key down 100%). If the answer is “100W”, what remote tuner are you guys using with inverted-Lsand your K3s? Yes, I know that the K3 can have a built-in tuner, but I don’t think it can work with an inverted-L. Kurt – currently call-sign-less, but who was once WB6DSW. (I understand about keeping posts short, but this is my intro post. Follow-ons will be shorter :) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net/ Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
1) A good ground is only important when the length is significantly less than 1/2 wavelength. Otherwise the impedance at the feed point will be relatively high, meaning a ground is needed only to keep the rig from floating to a problematic RF potential as I explained in my first post. 2) You want adequate distance between you and the radiator to comply with the FCC RF exposure guidelines. You need spacing at the higher frequencies. There are a variety of guidelines for that, but I always use 2 meters at 30 MHz. It's less on the lower frequency bands. 73 Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mini Builder Sent: Friday, December 20, 2013 7:22 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners Thanks, guys. My reasoning for thinking that I need a remote tuner is that 1. It’s recommended in about every reference I've seen, and B. What’s the alternative? I assume it means going straight to coax (probably through a balun) at the feed point, and putting up with whatever mismatch there is, correct? Anyone know how much of a mismatch the K3 can handle? I know it's around 10:1 SWR, but what about impedance? Yes, I know about the importance of a good ground on an inverted-L, that's definitely on the list. On Friday, December 20, 2013 7:06 PM, Ariel Jacala n...@hotmail.com wrote: Hello Mini Builder Welcome back. The K3 internal tuner is the best choice. I have used tuners of every stripe and Elecraft internal tuners have a very wide tuning range and will match everything that my other tuners won't. Why do you need a remote tuner? If you only have one antenna - you need a multiband antenna that is a wire. An inverted L will need a lot of radials to be efficient and is good for the low bands. Various wire antennas which do not need radials will do you better for 40-10m. A K3 tuner will tune an inverted L provided you cut it right. It will also tune wires of every stripe. Ariel NY4G Sent from my iPad On Dec 20, 2013, at 9:44 PM, Mini Builder kiminicoop...@yahoo.com wrote: Background: I got into ham radio back in the 1970s, getting my license at age 12, then life moved on and my license expired. Recently, going through my dad’s stuff after he passed away, I found his license, which brought back many fond memories, so I decided to get back into it. Now: I just passed the Technician and General test (no call sign yet) and have been looking at the state of the art - HOLY SMOKES have things changed! Anyhow, after a lot of research, I’ve decided to get a K3, but before that, I need an antenna. The K3 (with amp) outputs 100W. I’m pretty sure that I’m going with an inverted-L antenna, which requires a remote antenna tuner at its base. One promising remote tuner is the SG-230, but it can only handle “80 watts continuous.” My question: In CW mode, how much power does the K3 output? (assuming worst-case key down 100%). If the answer is “100W”, what remote tuner are you guys using with inverted-Lsand your K3s? Yes, I know that the K3 can have a built-in tuner, but I don’t think it can work with an inverted-L. Kurt – currently call-sign-less, but who was once WB6DSW. (I understand about keeping posts short, but this is my intro post. Follow-ons will be shorter :) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net/ Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: filter for those with nearby AM broadcast
On 12/20/2013 12:49 PM, Phil Debbie Salas wrote: My Heathkit SB-line also used RCA connectors for up to 100-watt interfaces. Most RCA connectors around today are crap, and so is the cable they are attached to, but that was not true back then. The RCA connectors that Switchcraft still mfrs for cable mounting are first rate, and typical of what the designers of that gear had in mind. Switchcraft 3502 is the male, 3503 is the female, and there are a couple of variations. They fit RG58 quite well -- don't know if they fit anything larger. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
On 12/20/2013 8:15 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: 1) A good ground is only important when the length is significantly less than 1/2 wavelength. Otherwise the impedance at the feed point will be relatively high, meaning a ground is needed only to keep the rig from floating to a problematic RF potential as I explained in my first post. Ron is correct, a half-wave is *nearly* insensitive to grounding [i.e. radial field]. However, strangely enough, feeding an EFHW, it really helps to have a radial hanging off the coax shield at the balun/xfmr at the antenna ... about 6in [15cm] long on 20m. Learned this from EZNEC and verified it in the real universe. 2) You want adequate distance between you and the radiator to comply with the FCC RF exposure guidelines. You need spacing at the higher frequencies. There are a variety of guidelines for that, but I always use 2 meters at 30 MHz. It's less on the lower frequency bands. Sadly, RF exposure may be the least of your worries if you're close to the antenna. I have a 3 pipe that runs vertically from a 1 ft sq utility box in the wall, opens under the desk and in the wall outside in the carport, weather head on the top. It carries all my coax up and to the messenger to the tower. I decided to mount a GAP Titan vertical on the pipe just below the weatherhead. The antenna works great ... as an antenna ... but it is 12ft over my head in the shack. All seems well in the shack on 40 and 30m. Alas, on 20 and above, at 500W, everything electronic in the shack either forgets everything it ever knew, or goes totally berserk. Still working on ferrite therapy. Don't know about the exposure issue [math major, not biomed], but in the late 50's/early 60's [late teens/very early 20's] working at the TV station to support myself in college, I got $50 twice a year to climb the tower [~400ft] and replace the clearance lamps which was an FAA requirement. Station had the gear, they had it inspected twice a year by the mfr, they sent me to climbing school at PGE [power company], I climbed inside the tower on a ladder, and had a fall arrester on the steel cable down the center. A work-out to the top, but I was really young and it wasn't exactly the most dangerous thing I'd ever do. I climbed in the middle of the day, TX was on a ridge just off the Pacific and the wind was constant and cold. We were also on the air, 10KW visual and 10KW aural, and at the top lamps, where the mast started up to the turnstile antenna, I would linger a little because I got warm for the trip down. :-) OSHA today would have a major cow. The station hired riggers to service the beacon on top, it had a automatic spare. $50 was a lot then, the first check fixed the brakes on my old truck, lack of which was probably far more dangerous than the tower. :-) 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org 73 Ron AC7AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
Thanks for all the input! Sorry, I misspoke about grounding - yes, I know that it's not really ground, but a grid against which the signal is balanced. It's very promising to hear that the K3's internal tuner will work, as it's less money and one less thing to deal with. Haven't decided where the antenna will go, but it'll probably be 20-30 feet from the K3, using RG-8U. Also haven't decided whether to string up wire off a tree, or build a flag pole, stringing the horizontal wire off the top. Going that route would allow around a 50-ft vertical section without being too obvious. FWIW, the name Mini Builder is getting auto-appended by Yahoo; I may change accounts to fix that. It comes from me having built several cars from scratch - you can waste hours at http://www.kimini.com/, and http://www.midlana.com/, but I know this isn't the place for that. On Friday, December 20, 2013 9:29 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote: On 12/20/2013 8:15 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: 1) A good ground is only important when the length is significantly less than 1/2 wavelength. Otherwise the impedance at the feed point will be relatively high, meaning a ground is needed only to keep the rig from floating to a problematic RF potential as I explained in my first post. Ron is correct, a half-wave is *nearly* insensitive to grounding [i.e. radial field]. However, strangely enough, feeding an EFHW, it really helps to have a radial hanging off the coax shield at the balun/xfmr at the antenna ... about 6in [15cm] long on 20m. Learned this from EZNEC and verified it in the real universe. 2) You want adequate distance between you and the radiator to comply with the FCC RF exposure guidelines. You need spacing at the higher frequencies. There are a variety of guidelines for that, but I always use 2 meters at 30 MHz. It's less on the lower frequency bands. Sadly, RF exposure may be the least of your worries if you're close to the antenna. I have a 3 pipe that runs vertically from a 1 ft sq utility box in the wall, opens under the desk and in the wall outside in the carport, weather head on the top. It carries all my coax up and to the messenger to the tower. I decided to mount a GAP Titan vertical on the pipe just below the weatherhead. The antenna works great ... as an antenna ... but it is 12ft over my head in the shack. All seems well in the shack on 40 and 30m. Alas, on 20 and above, at 500W, everything electronic in the shack either forgets everything it ever knew, or goes totally berserk. Still working on ferrite therapy. Don't know about the exposure issue [math major, not biomed], but in the late 50's/early 60's [late teens/very early 20's] working at the TV station to support myself in college, I got $50 twice a year to climb the tower [~400ft] and replace the clearance lamps which was an FAA requirement. Station had the gear, they had it inspected twice a year by the mfr, they sent me to climbing school at PGE [power company], I climbed inside the tower on a ladder, and had a fall arrester on the steel cable down the center. A work-out to the top, but I was really young and it wasn't exactly the most dangerous thing I'd ever do. I climbed in the middle of the day, TX was on a ridge just off the Pacific and the wind was constant and cold. We were also on the air, 10KW visual and 10KW aural, and at the top lamps, where the mast started up to the turnstile antenna, I would linger a little because I got warm for the trip down. :-) OSHA today would have a major cow. The station hired riggers to service the beacon on top, it had a automatic spare. $50 was a lot then, the first check fixed the brakes on my old truck, lack of which was probably far more dangerous than the tower. :-) 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org 73 Ron AC7AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net/ Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Transmitter performance
Normally I would not post this to the Elecraft Reflector, but since Dave brings it up, My wife and I are the North American representatives for Dubus Magazine (i.e. we process subscriptions for US, Canadian and Mexican hams, providing payment is in US funds. If you are interested in the magazine contact us at dubus...@gmail.com. Thanks for allowing the OT. Ed Janet Cole --- From: Dave d...@g0dja.co.uk Subject: [Elecraft] Transmitter performance I have recently received a copy of a publication known as DUBUS (for those outside of Europe, this is a technical publication dedicated to VHF, UHF and SHF equipment design and operating) -snip 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com Kits made by KL7UW Dubus Mag business: dubus...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
