[Elecraft] MicroHAM DigiKeyer II with K3S

[john]

I have two MicroHAM DigiKeyer II's that I have used for years with Yaesu
FT1000 Mark-V transceivers. I recently switched to using Elecraft K3S radios
and purchased two new MicroHAM cables. I cannot get the MicroHAM router to
recognize the frequency of my newest K3S. I have the radio RS232 set to
38400 b and the MicroHam set to radio K3 38400 baud. I am also having other
issues getting this to work on RTTY, but those could be configuration
problems. I switched cables and DigiKeyers with a working system and this
still does not work. Is there a K3S setting that I am missing or is
something wrong the RS232 port of my new transciever?

John KK9A

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Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksysproduces birdies)

[John Shadle]

I tried putting loads of mix 31 toroids on the lines, and it did very
little. I'm wondering of moving to gigabit will change things.

I tried using different power supplies I had on hand, but those had
absolutely no effect on the noise. It's coming from the network switch.

-john NE4U
On Feb 6, 2016 11:24 AM, "Larry Gauthier (K8UT)"  wrote:

> John
>
> I think I have been mis-understood; or perhaps I mis-spoke. ;-)
>
> I could not migrate to gigabit ethernet from 10 MBPS because the CAT5
> cable I was using only had two available pairs. I replaced the CAT5 with
> CAT6 with 4 available pairs, but that alone would not have solved my birdie
> problem. The real "fix" was in the move from 10 -> 1000. I do not believe
> that changing cables alone will solve your problem.
>
> -larry (K8UT)
> -Original Message- From: John Shadle
> Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 10:14 AM
> To: David Ahrendts
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka
> Linksysproduces birdies)
>
> Thank, all. I may have to look into that. It may just involve changing out
> some runs of the cable. I used either CAT5 or CAT5e in all my runs. Just
> odd that the noise is coming from the one location and not the others,
> though. Ah well!
>
> -john NE4U
>
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:15 AM, David Ahrendts 
> wrote:
>
> John, I’ll concur with Larry. I have several D-Link gigabit switches using
>> CAT6 cable with no apparent noise, and I believe their “green” technology
>> actually shuts off unused ports when not in use. Amazon.
>>
>> David A., KK6DA, LA
>>
>> On Feb 5, 2016, at 1:48 AM, Larry Gauthier (K8UT) 
>> wrote:
>>
>> John,
>>
>> I had a similar situation here with a LinkSys switch. Tried a NetGear
>> switch and the birdies moved - but were still present. Solved the problem
>> by moving all networked devices from cat5 10 mb to cat6 1000t gigabit
>> ethernet.
>>
>> -larry (K8UT)
>> -Original Message- From: John Shadle
>> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 1:07 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka
>> Linksysproduces birdies)
>>
>> I just completed my K3S build and initial configuration. Woohoo. I was
>> tuning around the bands, and I noticed birdies *everywhere*. Every 20-30Hz
>> on 40m there was one -- and it was LOUD. I thought that something was up
>> with my build, but then started doing an internet search for "K3 birdies".
>> I saw one person (from a 2010 post on this list) note that the birdies
>> could be coming from network devices (routers). A-ha!
>>
>> Initially, I thought it had something to do with my ASUS wireless router
>> being extremely close to my operation location. I unplugged it, and the
>> noise went away. Then I plugged it back in and removed, one by one, the
>> connections to various devices (network storage, my shack computer, and
>> the
>> line that runs to my upstairs office). It just so happens that I had
>> installed a network switch recently (produced by Linksys, and on sale at
>> Best Buy last week). I unplugged the cable going to that switch, and the
>> noise went away. I then plugged it back in, and went to the office and
>> disconnected the power from the Linksys switch. Noise is gone again.
>>
>> So, I'm looking for a new network switch. Does anyone have advice on what
>> has worked for them?
>>
>> Alternately, any idea on how to get the network switch from producing
>> these
>> awful birdies?
>>
>> I'm *not* looking for a new router -- but just a switch.
>>
>> Thanks.
>> -john NE4U
>> Madison, WI
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>> David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

[David Woolley]

Noise reduction is a difficult problem and hearing aid manufacturers 
have been trying to solve it for the last couple of decades.


One important point to note is that noise reduction is normally aimed at 
reducing subjective noise and therefore reducing fatigue.  Generally 
what you are doing is actually recognising signal, then suppressing 
those frequencies that are not conveying the signal.  The noise on the 
same frequencies as important parts of the signal still gets through.


You cannot remove noise unless you have first identified the signal, so 
you cannot remove the noise that is masking an unknown signal.


The simplest noise reduction is a narrow band CW filter!  The ultimate 
noise reduction for CW would be to decode the signal, and regenerate it, 
but that is currently only possible for signals that are already clean 
an well formed.


Decode and  recreate might be the ultimate solution for hearing aids, as 
well.


--
David Woolley
Owner K2 06123

On 06/02/16 03:35, drewko wrote:

I'm glad that noise solutions are being investigated. I think advances
in NR/NB would be of more importance to many hams than close-in dynamic
range, however useful the improvement in those attention-getting figures
are. On a day to day basis noise is the top culprit for many of us.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S and RTTY Contesting with N1MM+/MMTTY

[Richard Ferch]

There is some confusion evident in your post on the roles of the 
connections between the radio and the computer.


There are three separate connections needed for operation in data modes 
(possibly four in FSK).


The first of these connections is for rig control from N1MM+. On a K3, 
this is the RS232 port. On a K3S, you can use the USB connection 
instead, provided the K3S's CONFIG:RS232 is set for USB. Either way, 
this represents one serial port in the software. N1MM+ must be 
configured to use this port for rig control, and this port cannot be 
used by MMTTY when it is run from within N1MM+. This last limitation 
(inability to share a serial port between the two programs) is why the 
configuration that you use in MMTTY stand-alone does not work when you 
run MMTTY from N1MM+.


The second connection is for audio to and from MMTTY. On a K3, there are 
actually two cables for audio, one in and one out, but on a K3S, these 
can be replaced by a single USB connection to the USB codec inside the 
radio. This happens to be shared with the same USB cable that conveys 
rig control, but there are two separate and independent devices as far 
as the software is concerned - one is a serial port, the other is a 
sound card, and there is no interaction between the two in the 
application software.


This audio connection is used for receive audio, and in AFSK, for 
transmit audio. MMTTY is configured to use the radio's USB codec as its 
sound card; N1MM+ does not need to use the sound card at all in data 
modes (SSB is another story, but I won't go into that here).


The third connection is for TX/RX control, or PTT. There are several 
ways of doing this on the K3/K3S, and it can be controlled either in the 
radio, or in N1MM+, or in MMTTY - pick one.


In AFSK (or in CW), the method internal to the radio is VOX. If you use 
VOX, you do not need to, and for the sake of avoiding confusion you 
should not, configure any other method of PTT either in N1MM+ or in 
MMTTY. However, VOX does not work in FSK D. If the radio is in FSK D, 
PTT must be controlled some other way (either via radio command or via a 
hardware PTT connection).


A second method is to use software radio commands from N1MM+ over the 
radio control line to control PTT. This method can be used by MMTTY when 
it is run stand-alone, but it is not available to MMTTY when it is run 
from within N1MM+ because of the inability to share the port. If you use 
this method, you do not need either a hardware connection or VOX.


A third method is to use serial port keying, by convention usually done 
on RTS, although it is possible to use DTR. In most radios, this has to 
be a separate port from the radio control port, and it has to be through 
a keying circuit. The K3 and K3S are exceptions - you can use RTS on the 
radio control port without any keying circuitry by setting 
CONFIG:PTT-KEY to RTS-OFF (or RTS-DTR to allow CW keying on DTR). This 
must be done from N1MM+, not from MMTTY, because the radio control port 
cannot be shared between the two programs.


You can also use a different serial port for PTT control, in which case 
it would be connected through a keying circuit to either the PTT IN jack 
or to the ACC connector on the K3/K3S. Since this is a different serial 
port from the radio control port, you can choose to use it either from 
N1MM+ or from MMTTY.


The fourth possible connection (which may be shared with the third PTT 
method) is for FSK keying from MMTTY, which is applied via the ACC 
connector. This can be done from a serial port through a keying circuit, 
but it must be a different serial port from the one used for rig 
control. This is a hardware limitation, not just software. The FSK 
serial port must be configured in MMTTY, and there is normally no need 
to mention it at all in N1MM+. MMTTY can also use this same port for PTT 
control, in which case you do not need to configure a PTT method in N1MM+.


It is possible to configure a serial port used by MMTTY in N1MM+ in such 
a way that N1MM+ only uses it in CW/SSB and hands it over to MMTTY in 
data modes, but this is only necessary if you need to time-share the FSK 
port with other uses in other modes, or if you want to use FSK with the 
built-in MMVARI engine in N1MM+.


There is another way to do FSK, and that is via radio control commands 
embedded in CAT1ASC macros in N1MM+, but this method is not supported by 
the N1MM+ programming team, i.e. you are on your own if you try it.


There is no TCP/IP connection to the radio. HRD may use TCP/IP for 
intercommunication between its software modules, but the K3 or K3S has 
no Ethernet connection and no way to use TCP/IP.


Bottom line: You may use VOX in AFSK if you choose to do so, but it is 
not necessary if you have correctly configured one of the other PTT 
control methods.


73,
Rich VE3KI


KD3TB wrote:


I have a new K3S radio that uses the new  USB for Sound and Radio Control.
For RTTY contesting I use N1MM+ with the MMTTY 

[Elecraft] FS: K3/100 w/options

[cx7tt]

K3/100 Serial #250 with following options:
KAT3 internal tuner
KXV3 IO board
KPA100
500 hZ cw filter.
Gold pins on KPA and KREF boards. 12V rear panel mod. DSP upgrade board.
Back from Elecraft in Jan 2016. Reason for selling-bought K3s.  Will be
shipped from W3FPR QTH to CONUS. $1995 plus 1/2 shipping.Checks OK.
Tom K6CT 305-767-1927
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Re: [Elecraft] MicroHAM DigiKeyer II with K3S

[john]

I think I spent too long trying to resolve this when I really had some other
plans on this beautiful sunny day and I did a poor job of swapping devices
for troubleshooting.  I believe that the problem is related to one of my
DigiKeyer IIs.  I just tried an old original design DigiKeyer that I had
laying around and it seems to function properly. Sorry for the bandwidth!

73,
John KK9A

-Original Message-
From: j...@kk9a.com [mailto:j...@kk9a.com] 
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 4:15 PM
To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: MicroHAM DigiKeyer II with K3S

I have two MicroHAM DigiKeyer II's that I have used for years with Yaesu
FT1000 Mark-V transceivers. I recently switched to using Elecraft K3S radios
and purchased two new MicroHAM cables. I cannot get the MicroHAM router to
recognize the frequency of my newest K3S. I have the radio RS232 set to
38400 b and the MicroHam set to radio K3 38400 baud. I am also having other
issues getting this to work on RTTY, but those could be configuration
problems. I switched cables and DigiKeyers with a working system and this
still does not work. Is there a K3S setting that I am missing or is
something wrong the RS232 port of my new transciever?

John KK9A

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Jim Allen]

Almost all of G3TXQ's tests on his website with ferrite core baluns involved 
RG58, so I figured RG8X would be even better.  I have a lot of it, and no RG58.

Luckily, these things are easy to work with, so if I ever have/want/need to 
change it, it's so easy even a lawyer can do it, 3 out of 5 tries, anyway.

I see also that Steve's test methods involve equipment I don't have or ever 
heard of!

Thanks for the inputs, men, and the off list e-mails, too.  At least I won't be 
as dumb for the rest of my life as I was last week.

73 de W6OGC Jim Allen 

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

[Gary Smith]

David,

My father made something like that many 
years ago. I'm thinking it is still here, 
one of the many things yet to be uncovered 
in his shack. Its in a blue plastic 
enclosure, I'll know it when I see it. 

He'd been a ham since 36 or 37 and he was 
an EE, worked for General Dynamics in 
their Sub division. He made an audio 
filter for CW that managed to not have 
noise affect the generated signal unless 
the signal was garbled past 
intelligibility, in which case no tone was 
generated. I remember him remarking how 
much more narrow the audio was and that it 
was narrower by far than the narrowest CW 
filter on his Collins.

It would regenerate that garbled CW tone 
into a regenerated tone devoid of any 
noise in the background. It had to have a 
decent enough sound to work with but I 
remember hearing the pure generated note 
being free of any garbage with it.

73,
Gary
KA1J


> The simplest noise reduction is a narrow band CW filter!  The ultimate 
> noise reduction for CW would be to decode the signal, and regenerate it, 
> but that is currently only possible for signals that are already clean 
> an well formed.
> 
> Decode and  recreate might be the ultimate solution for hearing aids, as 
> well.
> 
> -- 
> David Woolley
> Owner K2 06123

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Bob makes an excellent point. I've seen cases where even "solid" dielectric
did that over time because, after all, it is not really solid. The
dielectric is plastic so the coax can be bent. 

All coax has a minimum bending radius specification. Specific data is
available on line but, in general, RG58 size cable usually has a minimum
radius of 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) and RG8 size cable has a minimum
radius of at least 2 inches (5 cm). Note that is radius. If you curl the
cable into a circle the minimum diameter of that circle should be at least
twice that or 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm). 

It's not something I've found especially critical in HF applications at
least around my shack, but tighter bends, which may not actually cause a
short (yet), alter the impedance as the center conductor migrates toward one
side so it is no longer equally spaced within the shield. This can be a
serious issue in microwave and even UHF installations. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
I would have concern that long term usage of RG-8X, being foam core
dielectric material and bent in a tight radius, may allow the center
conductor to migrate to the inside radius of the bend.  The Minimum Bend 
Radius for RG-8X is 2.50". Thus the tight bend will allow the center 
conductor to short to the shield.  A solid core dielectric coax such as
RG-303  is much preferred.

73
Bob, K4TAX


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Re: [Elecraft] MicroHAM DigiKeyer II with K3S

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

How have you connected Digikeyer II to the "RS-232 Port" in your K3S?

Are you sure the RJ-45 connector is seated correctly and none of the
wire/contacts have been crossed/dislocated?

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


On 2/6/2016 4:14 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I have two MicroHAM DigiKeyer II's that I have used for years with Yaesu
FT1000 Mark-V transceivers. I recently switched to using Elecraft K3S radios
and purchased two new MicroHAM cables. I cannot get the MicroHAM router to
recognize the frequency of my newest K3S. I have the radio RS232 set to
38400 b and the MicroHam set to radio K3 38400 baud. I am also having other
issues getting this to work on RTTY, but those could be configuration
problems. I switched cables and DigiKeyers with a working system and this
still does not work. Is there a K3S setting that I am missing or is
something wrong the RS232 port of my new transciever?

John KK9A

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Dave Olean]

Tell me about it! I made a 1/2 wave balun for a 432 yagi. I used Times FM-8 
foam coax. (RG-8 sized with low loss foam dielectric) and it was bent in a U 
shape that did not exceed the bending radius.  I tested it with a 700 watt 
output amplifier and the VSWR went through the roof in under a second. The 
coax center conductor drifted away from the center at the midway point of 
the balun and caused the high VSWR. It did not short out, but was rendered 
unuseable. I ended up making a 1/4 wave balun with copper pipe and a Delta 
match. Don't use foam coax for high voltage either!


Dave K1WHS
- Original Message - 
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 

To: 
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions


Bob makes an excellent point. I've seen cases where even "solid" 
dielectric

did that over time because, after all, it is not really solid. The
dielectric is plastic so the coax can be bent.

All coax has a minimum bending radius specification. Specific data is
available on line but, in general, RG58 size cable usually has a minimum
radius of 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) and RG8 size cable has a minimum
radius of at least 2 inches (5 cm). Note that is radius. If you curl the
cable into a circle the minimum diameter of that circle should be at least
twice that or 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm).

It's not something I've found especially critical in HF applications at
least around my shack, but tighter bends, which may not actually cause a
short (yet), alter the impedance as the center conductor migrates toward 
one

side so it is no longer equally spaced within the shield. This can be a
serious issue in microwave and even UHF installations.

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
I would have concern that long term usage of RG-8X, being foam core
dielectric material and bent in a tight radius, may allow the center
conductor to migrate to the inside radius of the bend.  The Minimum Bend
Radius for RG-8X is 2.50". Thus the tight bend will allow the center
conductor to short to the shield.  A solid core dielectric coax such as
RG-303  is much preferred.

73
Bob, K4TAX


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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

If one wants a small 50 ohm coax that will take QRO with a very large
margin and was *designed* for bending and use in aircraft wiring harnesses
then use RG400 to wind around your core. RG400 uses a fine stranded
silvered copper center conductor that is more flexible than its Teflon
dielectric. It has a double shield made from silvered copper strands.

That's silvered strands whose silver sulphide patina or tarnish is
conductive as opposed to the green copper sulphate that separates copper
strands that have been water soaked.

Wind the coil form with RG59 to get the length and buy just what RG400 you
need. You can buy brand new RG400 by the foot.  With the Teflon dielectric
you can solder the RG400 without worrying about melting it.

Do it with the good stuff to start with and put it in your will.

73, Guy K2AV

On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

> Bob makes an excellent point. I've seen cases where even "solid" dielectric
> did that over time because, after all, it is not really solid. The
> dielectric is plastic so the coax can be bent.
>
> All coax has a minimum bending radius specification. Specific data is
> available on line but, in general, RG58 size cable usually has a minimum
> radius of 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) and RG8 size cable has a minimum
> radius of at least 2 inches (5 cm). Note that is radius. If you curl the
> cable into a circle the minimum diameter of that circle should be at least
> twice that or 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm).
>
> It's not something I've found especially critical in HF applications at
> least around my shack, but tighter bends, which may not actually cause a
> short (yet), alter the impedance as the center conductor migrates toward
> one
> side so it is no longer equally spaced within the shield. This can be a
> serious issue in microwave and even UHF installations.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> I would have concern that long term usage of RG-8X, being foam core
> dielectric material and bent in a tight radius, may allow the center
> conductor to migrate to the inside radius of the bend.  The Minimum Bend
> Radius for RG-8X is 2.50". Thus the tight bend will allow the center
> conductor to short to the shield.  A solid core dielectric coax such as
> RG-303  is much preferred.
>
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
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[Elecraft] APF (audio peaking filter) on the K3/K3S/KX3

[Chuck Guenther]

I've been using APF in my K3 since it was in Beta testing.  I love it!  
I've found it necessary to use both the shift and Fine tuning-- these 
are not optional for effective use of APF.  I've been using macros to 
engage and dis-engage the APF.


One reason I keep combing through the Elecraft Reflector postings is for 
gems such as Brian's suggestion below.  There is always something new to 
learn.  Thanks, Brian.

73,
Chuck  NI0C
KX1, K2-10, K3


Quote:

The technique I'm using with the APF also involves NR like so:

On an uncrowded band, set the DSP BW to 700 to 1000 Hz. If you have a roofing 
filter in that range stay within it.

Turn on NR set to mF5-3 or there about. The wide BW helps the NR work well. The 
"mix" mode lets a little unprocessed signal+noise through. This is a good weak 
signal search mode.

When you find a signal you want to copy, turn on APF and peak it in the filter. 
Fine tuning helps. There is little ringing because NR has reduced the noise 
amplitude. You can decrease the DSP BW a little but the NR is more effective 
with uncorrelated noise.

This technique has gotten me many pelts in the QRP Fox Hunts.

73,
Brian, K0DTJ


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Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksysproduces birdies)

[Kevin Stover]

I am of the opinion that most if not all the issues associated with 
"noisy networks" is cheap switching power supplies that comes with the 
equipment. Cat5/6 cable in and of itself is pretty immune to noise 
pickup because of the twist in the conductors. That twist is there to 
knock down crosstalk on the 4 pairs when in full duplex Ethernet 
service. The only warning I'm aware of concerning routing of Cat5/6 is 
to keep it away from power runs. Most definitely do not run it parallel 
for any distance with unshielded romex, and if you have to cross romex 
do it perpendicular to the romex run.


I've seen new houses built with all the wire running parallel in a piece 
of conduit in the wall. Looks pretty but a recipe for all sorts of 
problems like slower than expected or advertised network performance 
etcPower up from the basement and Ethernet down from the attic is a 
good idea.


On 2/6/2016 12:03 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
After reading all of this, I investigated my system here.  First, no 
birdies found on any of the bands.  WHEW!   Noise on the 160M center 
fed wire w/balanced feed line is about S-3 this morning, noise on the 
coax fed 75M inverted V is S-2, and noise on the coax fed  40M 
inverted V is S-3, and noise on the coax fed 20M inverted V is S-3. 
These seem to be a bit higher then normal but it is Saturday and 
everybody is home in the neighborhood.


Our system arrives with fiber underground to the box the TELCO 
provided on the end of the house.  Out of that box runs a CAT5E cable 
up the wall, into the attic, across the attic and drops through the 
ceiling, then around the bookcase desk to the modem/switch sitting 
under the desk.The modem/switch is a CISCO LinkSys EA4500.  Two of 
the ports are being used, printer and laptop,  and the other two are 
open.   The power for the modem/switch, power for the computer, the 
printer, the CLF lamp on the desk along with the radios all come from 
one power source being a dedicated 20A service back to the main 
breaker panel, again at the far end of the house, on the inside wall, 
being the same wall the CAT5E cable runs up to the attic.   The run 
from the TELCO box to the station is about 75 ft.  Same from the 
breaker panel to the operating position for station and amp power.  
Those feeds are #12-2 w/ ground and #10-3 w/ground respectively.  
Being in the middle and upstairs of a 2 story house there is no 
station ground to the outside world, other than the provided safety 
3rd pin ground as required.  I do have a dedicated 240V 20A service 
for the amp and that service is in the attic back to the main breaker 
panel.


Antennas are all above the roof, no more than 50 ft and less with the 
tower at the corner of the house, and mostly less with a couple, 40M 
wire and 20M wire actually having the ends terminated at the eve of 
the 2nd story.  The point being, there is not a lot of physical 
separation between the CAT5E cable and the antennas and power wiring.


To me it is very puzzling why so many seem to have issues and a few do 
not.  I could elaborate about station equipment connectivity.  It 
would most likely start a controversy as to what is correct and what 
is incorrect.  My point, if one is having issues, this should trigger 
a thought to investigate how and what is configured with the station.  
In some cases, I'm sure certain equipment is more prone to generate 
noise/birdies than others.


73
Bob, K4TAX



--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Jim Allen  wrote:

>  I used RG8X coax, a 2.4" core, not sure exactly what mix, and 11 turns.
>

There is a *huge* variation in core materials and performance specifics found
in the FT241 form factor.

It really matters what the actual material is. On 160 the variation in the
balun could be performance anywhere between fairly decent
and amazingly pathetic.

73, Guy K2AV

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

[john]

Even if this works for your noise, I wonder how well it will work using a
wide roofing filter in contest conditions.

Perhaps for RX testing only you can select a different narrower TX filter?

John KK9A



Bill W4ZV btippett at alum.mit.edu 
Sat Feb 6 05:34:34 EST 2016

I've been having a problem with a pulse type electric fencer (not the 60 Hz
cycling buzz type which is impossible to cure with a blanker).  Most radios'
NBs deal effectively with pulses but for some reason (firmware change) my K3
(#4717) is not.  I decided to try Wayne's suggestion even though I only have
the 2.7 kHz stock filter.  

The problem with Wayne's suggestion is that the K3 Utility will not accept
0.45 as a valid width for the 2.7 kHz filter because it is used for TX on
CW/SSB and bandwidths <2.7 kHz are not allowed.  Is there a workaround for
this or am I doing something wrong?

73,  Bill  W4ZV

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Jim Allen]

Ok, so this morning, I went out to the shack and whipped up a balun, from a 
G3TXQ design I found on the website of W5DXP.com.  It is coax wrapped around a 
ferrite core, with appropriate connectors in a plastic weathertight box.  I 
used RG8X coax, a 2.4" core, not sure exactly what mix, and 11 turns.

How do I test this device to get its properties, impedance at various 
frequencies, etc?  

It appears to function when I put it inline.  The KAT100 seems happy.  It 
produces a decent match on 40-10m using the 44' long rotating dipole at ~37' 
fed with 450 ohm twin lead.  I have no idea how efficient it might be, of 
course, if at all.

I still don't hear the VP8 much above the noise. :>(

73 de W6OGC Jim Allen 

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Wes (N7WS)]

If you're driving a 50 ohm load, then the cable wound around the core is just an 
extension of the transmission line and has no impedance modifying effects.


The significant parameter is the common mode (CM) impedance. G3TXQ discusses a 
way to measure it here: http://www.karinya.net/g3txq/chokes/#measurement


You can back into whether the CM is high enough by terminating each output with 
a resistive load to ground and measuring the two output voltages and phases with 
something like an HP8405 Vector Voltmeter.  Walt Maxwell, W2DU, discussed this 
in his book, "Reflections II" (p, 21-8 thru 21-10)


On 2/6/2016 11:06 AM, Jim Allen wrote:

Ok, so this morning, I went out to the shack and whipped up a balun, from a G3TXQ 
design I found on the website of W5DXP.com.  It is coax wrapped around a ferrite 
core, with appropriate connectors in a plastic weathertight box.  I used RG8X coax, 
a 2.4" core, not sure exactly what mix, and 11 turns.

How do I test this device to get its properties, impedance at various 
frequencies, etc?

It appears to function when I put it inline.  The KAT100 seems happy.  It 
produces a decent match on 40-10m using the 44' long rotating dipole at ~37' 
fed with 450 ohm twin lead.  I have no idea how efficient it might be, of 
course, if at all.

I still don't hear the VP8 much above the noise. :>(

73 de W6OGC Jim Allen

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksysproduces birdies)

[Larry Gauthier (K8UT)]

John

I think I have been mis-understood; or perhaps I mis-spoke. ;-)

I could not migrate to gigabit ethernet from 10 MBPS because the CAT5 cable 
I was using only had two available pairs. I replaced the CAT5 with CAT6 with 
4 available pairs, but that alone would not have solved my birdie problem. 
The real "fix" was in the move from 10 -> 1000. I do not believe that 
changing cables alone will solve your problem.


-larry (K8UT)
-Original Message- 
From: John Shadle

Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 10:14 AM
To: David Ahrendts
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka 
Linksysproduces birdies)


Thank, all. I may have to look into that. It may just involve changing out
some runs of the cable. I used either CAT5 or CAT5e in all my runs. Just
odd that the noise is coming from the one location and not the others,
though. Ah well!

-john NE4U

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:15 AM, David Ahrendts  wrote:


John, I’ll concur with Larry. I have several D-Link gigabit switches using
CAT6 cable with no apparent noise, and I believe their “green” technology
actually shuts off unused ports when not in use. Amazon.

David A., KK6DA, LA

On Feb 5, 2016, at 1:48 AM, Larry Gauthier (K8UT) 
wrote:

John,

I had a similar situation here with a LinkSys switch. Tried a NetGear
switch and the birdies moved - but were still present. Solved the problem
by moving all networked devices from cat5 10 mb to cat6 1000t gigabit
ethernet.

-larry (K8UT)
-Original Message- From: John Shadle
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 1:07 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka
Linksysproduces birdies)

I just completed my K3S build and initial configuration. Woohoo. I was
tuning around the bands, and I noticed birdies *everywhere*. Every 20-30Hz
on 40m there was one -- and it was LOUD. I thought that something was up
with my build, but then started doing an internet search for "K3 birdies".
I saw one person (from a 2010 post on this list) note that the birdies
could be coming from network devices (routers). A-ha!

Initially, I thought it had something to do with my ASUS wireless router
being extremely close to my operation location. I unplugged it, and the
noise went away. Then I plugged it back in and removed, one by one, the
connections to various devices (network storage, my shack computer, and 
the

line that runs to my upstairs office). It just so happens that I had
installed a network switch recently (produced by Linksys, and on sale at
Best Buy last week). I unplugged the cable going to that switch, and the
noise went away. I then plugged it back in, and went to the office and
disconnected the power from the Linksys switch. Noise is gone again.

So, I'm looking for a new network switch. Does anyone have advice on what
has worked for them?

Alternately, any idea on how to get the network switch from producing 
these

awful birdies?

I'm *not* looking for a new router -- but just a switch.

Thanks.
-john NE4U
Madison, WI
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David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com






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[Elecraft] K3S and RTTY Contesting with N1MM+/MMTTY

[KD3TB]

I am just posting to see what is the experience with others.

 

I have a new K3S radio that uses the new  USB for Sound and Radio Control.
For RTTY contesting I use N1MM+ with the MMTTY interface.  Since the USB
Codec control appears to act differently than a standard serial port, I need
to put the Radio in VOX to key RTTY in N1MM+.  In the past with my older K3
which used a standard Serial port connection, I did not have to do this.  My
K3 Settings are: Tx Data Mode (AFSK A), with PTT-KEY in rts-dtr . No
difference in Safe versus unsafe modes. It also requires the VOX on in FSK
mode too. When I use must MMTTY by itself, I can key with the correct Com
port.  I am sure this has something to do with how N1MM+ interfaces with the
new K3S USB Codec . I have not tried this with other RTTY programs such as
FLdigi, etc.  Everything works fine in CW, DVR Memory keying with the
correct codes, etc. 

 

With Ham Radio Deluxe, since it uses a TC/IP connection between the software
and radio, I do not need to have TX Data in VOX on mode. 

 

I am not sure to eliminate the requirement for VOX on, if it requires an
update in either K3S firmware or how N1MM+ interfaces with the K3S USB Codec
commands. -  Or we just stay with VOX on when contesting.

 

Food for thought and what are others experience with the K3S and N1MM+/MMTTY
in RTTY contesting?

 

Thanks, Irwin - KD3TB

 

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Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksysproduces birdies)

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

After reading all of this, I investigated my system here.  First, no 
birdies found on any of the bands.  WHEW!   Noise on the 160M center fed 
wire w/balanced feed line is about S-3 this morning, noise on the coax 
fed 75M inverted V is S-2, and noise on the coax fed  40M inverted V is 
S-3, and noise on the coax fed 20M inverted V is S-3. These seem to be a 
bit higher then normal but it is Saturday and everybody is home in the 
neighborhood.


Our system arrives with fiber underground to the box the TELCO provided 
on the end of the house.  Out of that box runs a CAT5E cable up the 
wall, into the attic, across the attic and drops through the ceiling, 
then around the bookcase desk to the modem/switch sitting under the 
desk.The modem/switch is a CISCO LinkSys EA4500.  Two of the ports 
are being used, printer and laptop,  and the other two are open.   The 
power for the modem/switch, power for the computer, the printer, the CLF 
lamp on the desk along with the radios all come from one power source 
being a dedicated 20A service back to the main breaker panel, again at 
the far end of the house, on the inside wall, being the same wall the 
CAT5E cable runs up to the attic.   The run from the TELCO box to the 
station is about 75 ft.  Same from the breaker panel to the operating 
position for station and amp power.  Those feeds are #12-2 w/ ground and 
#10-3 w/ground respectively.  Being in the middle and upstairs of a 2 
story house there is no station ground to the outside world, other than 
the provided safety 3rd pin ground as required.  I do have a dedicated 
240V 20A service for the amp and that service is in the attic back to 
the main breaker panel.


Antennas are all above the roof, no more than 50 ft and less with the 
tower at the corner of the house, and mostly less with a couple, 40M 
wire and 20M wire actually having the ends terminated at the eve of the 
2nd story.  The point being, there is not a lot of physical separation 
between the CAT5E cable and the antennas and power wiring.


To me it is very puzzling why so many seem to have issues and a few do 
not.  I could elaborate about station equipment connectivity.  It would 
most likely start a controversy as to what is correct and what is 
incorrect.  My point, if one is having issues, this should trigger a 
thought to investigate how and what is configured with the station.  In 
some cases, I'm sure certain equipment is more prone to generate 
noise/birdies than others.


73
Bob, K4TAX



On 2/6/2016 11:24 AM, Larry Gauthier (K8UT) wrote:

John

I think I have been mis-understood; or perhaps I mis-spoke. ;-)

I could not migrate to gigabit ethernet from 10 MBPS because the CAT5 
cable I was using only had two available pairs. I replaced the CAT5 
with CAT6 with 4 available pairs, but that alone would not have solved 
my birdie problem. The real "fix" was in the move from 10 -> 1000. I 
do not believe that changing cables alone will solve your problem.


-larry (K8UT)
-Original Message- From: John Shadle
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 10:14 AM
To: David Ahrendts
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka 
Linksysproduces birdies)


Thank, all. I may have to look into that. It may just involve changing 
out

some runs of the cable. I used either CAT5 or CAT5e in all my runs. Just
odd that the noise is coming from the one location and not the others,
though. Ah well!

-john NE4U

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:15 AM, David Ahrendts  
wrote:


John, I’ll concur with Larry. I have several D-Link gigabit switches 
using
CAT6 cable with no apparent noise, and I believe their “green” 
technology

actually shuts off unused ports when not in use. Amazon.

David A., KK6DA, LA

On Feb 5, 2016, at 1:48 AM, Larry Gauthier (K8UT) 
wrote:

John,

I had a similar situation here with a LinkSys switch. Tried a NetGear
switch and the birdies moved - but were still present. Solved the 
problem

by moving all networked devices from cat5 10 mb to cat6 1000t gigabit
ethernet.

-larry (K8UT)
-Original Message- From: John Shadle
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 1:07 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka
Linksysproduces birdies)

I just completed my K3S build and initial configuration. Woohoo. I was
tuning around the bands, and I noticed birdies *everywhere*. Every 
20-30Hz

on 40m there was one -- and it was LOUD. I thought that something was up
with my build, but then started doing an internet search for "K3 
birdies".

I saw one person (from a 2010 post on this list) note that the birdies
could be coming from network devices (routers). A-ha!

Initially, I thought it had something to do with my ASUS wireless router
being extremely close to my operation location. I unplugged it, and the
noise went away. Then I plugged it back in and removed, one by one, the
connections to various devices 

Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I would have concern that long term usage of RG-8X, being foam core 
dielectric material and bent in a tight radius, may allow the center 
conductor to migrate to the inside radius of the bend.  The Minimum Bend 
Radius for RG-8X is 2.50". Thus the tight bend will allow the center 
conductor to short to the shield.  A solid core dielectric coax such as 
RG-303  is much preferred.


73
Bob, K4TAX



On 2/6/2016 1:22 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Jim Allen  wrote:


  I used RG8X coax, a 2.4" core, not sure exactly what mix, and 11 turns.


There is a *huge* variation in core materials and performance specifics found
in the FT241 form factor.

It really matters what the actual material is. On 160 the variation in the
balun could be performance anywhere between fairly decent
and amazingly pathetic.

73, Guy K2AV




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[Elecraft] Script for setting tuner values?

[kevino z]

I was wondering if anyone has written a script using the CAT commands for the 
KX3 or KXPA100 to incrementally go through the ham bands and tune?

Something like:

Change VFO A to frequency at bottom of band
TUNE //the value for that match is stored in memory of tuner
Change VFO A to previous frequency plus some delta (for example, increment by 
10kHz)
TUNE //the value for the match is stored in memory
Repeat until at end of band.


I often try different antennas and think this would be helpful to pre-populate 
the values as I clear old ones when I start with a new antenna.

If no one has already done this, I may try to undertake this endeavor myself.

Thank you
-Kevin (KK4YEL) 


No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number of 
electrons were terribly inconvenienced !
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

Hi Bill. Does the same thing happen if you use the filters in the SubRX for
the experiment?  73, Guy K2AV

On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Bill W4ZV  wrote:

> wayne burdick wrote
> > 2.8 kHz should give some improvement over a narrow filter on some types
> of
> > noise. Worth a try. Just temporarily tell the firmware that it's a little
> > bit wider than your narrow filter, then use the WIDTH control to switch
> > between narrow and wide. Re-optimize the NB settings each time.
>
> I've been having a problem with a pulse type electric fencer (not the 60 Hz
> cycling buzz type which is impossible to cure with a blanker).  Most
> radios'
> NBs deal effectively with pulses but for some reason (firmware change) my
> K3
> (#4717) is not.  I decided to try Wayne's suggestion even though I only
> have
> the 2.7 kHz stock filter.
>
> The problem with Wayne's suggestion is that the K3 Utility will not accept
> 0.45 as a valid width for the 2.7 kHz filter because it is used for TX on
> CW/SSB and bandwidths <2.7 kHz are not allowed.  Is there a workaround for
> this or am I doing something wrong?
>
> 73,  Bill  W4ZV
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-K3S-noise-blanker-performance-greatly-enhanced-at-my-QTH-need-testers-tp7613491p7613631.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Yep, good stuff.  Be sure of your budget before buying a roll.  It is a 
bit pricey.  Handles legal limit HF power with a reasonable SWR.


73
Bob, K4TAX



On 2/6/2016 7:10 PM, Robert Nobis wrote:

I have used RG303/U for chokes.  A bit smaller diameter than RG400 (0.170 
versus 0.195 inches). RG303/U has a solid copper center conductor that is 
silver plated.  The shield for RG303 is also silver plated copper. The jacket 
is Class 9 Teflon. Also the dielectric material is teflon.

73,


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net



On Feb 6, 2016, at 17:49, Guy Olinger K2AV  wrote:

If one wants a small 50 ohm coax that will take QRO with a very large
margin and was *designed* for bending and use in aircraft wiring harnesses
then use RG400 to wind around your core. RG400 uses a fine stranded
silvered copper center conductor that is more flexible than its Teflon
dielectric. It has a double shield made from silvered copper strands.

That's silvered strands whose silver sulphide patina or tarnish is
conductive as opposed to the green copper sulphate that separates copper
strands that have been water soaked.

Wind the coil form with RG59 to get the length and buy just what RG400 you
need. You can buy brand new RG400 by the foot.  With the Teflon dielectric
you can solder the RG400 without worrying about melting it.

Do it with the good stuff to start with and put it in your will.

73, Guy K2AV

On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:


Bob makes an excellent point. I've seen cases where even "solid" dielectric
did that over time because, after all, it is not really solid. The
dielectric is plastic so the coax can be bent.

All coax has a minimum bending radius specification. Specific data is
available on line but, in general, RG58 size cable usually has a minimum
radius of 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) and RG8 size cable has a minimum
radius of at least 2 inches (5 cm). Note that is radius. If you curl the
cable into a circle the minimum diameter of that circle should be at least
twice that or 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm).

It's not something I've found especially critical in HF applications at
least around my shack, but tighter bends, which may not actually cause a
short (yet), alter the impedance as the center conductor migrates toward
one
side so it is no longer equally spaced within the shield. This can be a
serious issue in microwave and even UHF installations.

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
I would have concern that long term usage of RG-8X, being foam core
dielectric material and bent in a tight radius, may allow the center
conductor to migrate to the inside radius of the bend.  The Minimum Bend
Radius for RG-8X is 2.50". Thus the tight bend will allow the center
conductor to short to the shield.  A solid core dielectric coax such as
RG-303  is much preferred.

73
Bob, K4TAX


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Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksysproduces birdies)

[W Paul Mills]

The answer for me was shielded CAT 5. Different switches just produced
noise at different places. Was also greatly affected by devices plugged in.

On 02/06/2016 01:11 PM, Kevin Stover wrote:
> I am of the opinion that most if not all the issues associated with
> "noisy networks" is cheap switching power supplies that comes with the
> equipment. Cat5/6 cable in and of itself is pretty immune to noise
> pickup because of the twist in the conductors. That twist is there to
> knock down crosstalk on the 4 pairs when in full duplex Ethernet
> service. The only warning I'm aware of concerning routing of Cat5/6 is
> to keep it away from power runs. Most definitely do not run it parallel
> for any distance with unshielded romex, and if you have to cross romex
> do it perpendicular to the romex run.
> 
> I've seen new houses built with all the wire running parallel in a piece
> of conduit in the wall. Looks pretty but a recipe for all sorts of
> problems like slower than expected or advertised network performance
> etcPower up from the basement and Ethernet down from the attic is a
> good idea.
> -- 
/*
* Amateur Radio Station AC0HY*
* W. Paul Mills SN807*
* Assistant EC Alpha-1 ARES Shawnee/Wabunsee, KS *
* President Kaw Valley Amateur Radio Club*
*/
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Re: [Elecraft] MicroHAM DigiKeyer II with K3S

[john]

The connectors on the MicroHAM cable and the Elecraft RJ-45 adaptor are
properly seated. If I plug (swap) the MicroHAM DB-15  and USB into an
obsolete DigiKeyer using the same radio, cables and computer the router
recognizes the K3S frequency and it all appears to work properly. The other
strange thing I was having using this DigiKeyerII is when I opened Writelog
the K3S immediately went into transmit mode, that is something that I have
never seen before. I had not used this DigiKeyer II in six months and never
with a K3S.

John KK9A



Joe Subich, W4TV lists at subich.com 
Sat Feb 6 16:47:19 EST 2016

Are you sure the RJ-45 connector is seated correctly and none of the
wire/contacts have been crossed/dislocated?

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2/6/2016 4:14 PM, john at kk9a.com wrote:
> I have two MicroHAM DigiKeyer II's that I have used for years with Yaesu
> FT1000 Mark-V transceivers. I recently switched to using Elecraft K3S
radios
> and purchased two new MicroHAM cables. I cannot get the MicroHAM router to
> recognize the frequency of my newest K3S. I have the radio RS232 set to
> 38400 b and the MicroHam set to radio K3 38400 baud. I am also having
other
> issues getting this to work on RTTY, but those could be configuration
> problems. I switched cables and DigiKeyers with a working system and this
> still does not work. Is there a K3S setting that I am missing or is
> something wrong the RS232 port of my new transceiver?
>
> John KK9A

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Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksysproduces birdies)

[Jim Brown]

On Sat,2/6/2016 9:24 AM, Larry Gauthier (K8UT) wrote:
I could not migrate to gigabit ethernet from 10 MBPS because the CAT5 
cable I was using only had two available pairs. 


I'm confused by this statement. CAT5, 5e, and 6 are four pair cables. 
The pairs have a tight twist but each has a different twist ratio 
("lay") to minimize crosstalk. If the cables are wired per the Ethernet 
standard, each circuit should utilize one of the pairs, and in a 
specified order. What am I missing?


Now, we can do lots of things with that cable besides Ethernet -- I use 
it for RS232 and for running telephone pairs around my home.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Wes (N7WS)]

I can second Jim's concern about have one's work usurped by another.  I can 
recall Googling a topic and having a paper come up on some Canadian's website 
that appeared to be written by him but in fact was my ladderline paper.  I 
emailed him and asked him nicely to remove it and simply link to my site. He 
refused to do so, so I contacted his ISP and made them aware that he was 
violating their TOS.  I guess he gave them a ration of crap so they closed his 
account.


Bill Orr had my noise blanker circuit in his Handbook for years without me even 
knowing about it until a friend mentioned it.  Of course, Ham Radio Magazine 
held copyright and I suppose gave him permission but it would have been nice to 
know.  It would have been even nicer to have received a copy.


Another example: A good friend of mine who is a stunning photographer 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gauchocat/ had someone tell him, "Hey Glenn, I saw 
your photo in Audubon Magazine."  You guessed it, downloaded from Flickr.


Jim does excellent work; he should get credit for it.


On 2/6/2016 10:35 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Sat,2/6/2016 4:33 PM, Jim Allen wrote:
Almost all of G3TXQ's tests on his website with ferrite core baluns involved 
RG58, so I figured RG8X would be even better.  I have a lot of it, and no RG58.


Did you study the material on my website? My measurement method is clearly 
described in several of the publications, including the RFI tutorial, the AES 
Paper, and the Power Point for talks I've done for several ham clubs and 
conventions. The equipment consists of an HP Generator and HP Spectrum 
Analyzer (which was used as a terminated RF voltmeter).


My work, and its publication precedes G3TXQ's by at least five years. His work 
is clearly inspired by mine (and I would think by W1HIS's), yet he fails to 
credit either of us. All of my writing credits others who have made important 
contributions on the topic I'm writing about. I did, for example, reference 
work and texts by Henry Ott, Clayton Paul, W1HIS, E. C. Snelling, Neil Muncy, 
Bill Whitlock, Jerry Sevick, and Doug DeMaw in the RFI tutorial.


The "Cookbook" that is part of my RFI tutorial is based directly on the 
measured data that is discussed throughout the tutorial and summarized in 
Appendix One.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Robert Nobis]

Guy,

After reviewing specs from several manufacturers, the “recommended” minimum 
bend radius for RG303 and RG400 is essentially the same at 1.0 inches.  

73,



Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


> On Feb 6, 2016, at 23:07, Guy Olinger K2AV  wrote:
> 
> RG303 is not rated for the tight bends.  RG400 with its fine stranded center 
> conductor is rated for corner bends in aircraft wiring harnesses and will not 
> deform the dielectric within the bends. I would not wind any solid center 
> conductor coax on a toroid. 
> 
> I would only buy cut lengths of RG400 after the lengths for a project are 
> known. Some number of such suppliers on eBay. One currently listed at 1.98 
> per foot: 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/RG400-Coaxial-Cable-Mil-spec-by-the-ft-US-supplier-/251260159394?hash=item3a8045c5a2:g:WpAAAOxy43FRafUe
>  
> 
> 
> True it ain't ham cheep. The good stuff that lasts and lasts almost never is. 
> Back in the early days of eBay I came by a 142' length of RG400 for $25. 
> That's $0.178  a foot  I also came by bundles of miscellaneous 6 foot to 15 
> foot jumpers with various connectors on end for similar ridiculous low prices 
> per foot. 
> 
> The silvered copper strands stand up to migration of dampness in a way not 
> possible with same size copper strands minus the silvering. I have *measured* 
> the dry RF resistance at 1.83 MHz of a 67 foot length of corroded #14 
> stranded plain copper at 62 ohms. When new this wire had resistance at RF of 
> less than an ohm. I have never found the silvered copper equivalent in 
> anything remotely approaching that degraded state.
> 
> RG400 wound on the proper core for the job will last a lifetime.
> 
> 73, Guy K2AV 
> 
> On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Robert Nobis > wrote:
> I have used RG303/U for chokes.  A bit smaller diameter than RG400 (0.170 
> versus 0.195 inches). RG303/U has a solid copper center conductor that is 
> silver plated.  The shield for RG303 is also silver plated copper. The jacket 
> is Class 9 Teflon. Also the dielectric material is teflon.
> 
> 73,
> 
> 
> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
> n7...@nobis.net <>
> 
> 
> > On Feb 6, 2016, at 17:49, Guy Olinger K2AV > wrote:
> >
> > If one wants a small 50 ohm coax that will take QRO with a very large
> > margin and was *designed* for bending and use in aircraft wiring harnesses
> > then use RG400 to wind around your core. RG400 uses a fine stranded
> > silvered copper center conductor that is more flexible than its Teflon
> > dielectric. It has a double shield made from silvered copper strands.
> >
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Robert Nobis]

Bob,

Yes, it is a bit expensive: $2.91 per foot from “The Wireman” plus shipping.  
(For lengths under 100 feet.)

73,


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


> On Feb 6, 2016, at 18:21, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> Yep, good stuff.  Be sure of your budget before buying a roll.  It is a bit 
> pricey.  Handles legal limit HF power with a reasonable SWR.
> 
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> 
> On 2/6/2016 7:10 PM, Robert Nobis wrote:
>> I have used RG303/U for chokes.  A bit smaller diameter than RG400 (0.170 
>> versus 0.195 inches). RG303/U has a solid copper center conductor that is 
>> silver plated.  The shield for RG303 is also silver plated copper. The 
>> jacket is Class 9 Teflon. Also the dielectric material is teflon.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> 
>> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
>> n7...@nobis.net
>> 
>> 
>>> On Feb 6, 2016, at 17:49, Guy Olinger K2AV  wrote:
>>> 
>>> If one wants a small 50 ohm coax that will take QRO with a very large
>>> margin and was *designed* for bending and use in aircraft wiring harnesses
>>> then use RG400 to wind around your core. RG400 uses a fine stranded
>>> silvered copper center conductor that is more flexible than its Teflon
>>> dielectric. It has a double shield made from silvered copper strands.
>>> 
>>> That's silvered strands whose silver sulphide patina or tarnish is
>>> conductive as opposed to the green copper sulphate that separates copper
>>> strands that have been water soaked.
>>> 
>>> Wind the coil form with RG59 to get the length and buy just what RG400 you
>>> need. You can buy brand new RG400 by the foot.  With the Teflon dielectric
>>> you can solder the RG400 without worrying about melting it.
>>> 
>>> Do it with the good stuff to start with and put it in your will.
>>> 
>>> 73, Guy K2AV
>>> 
>>> On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:
>>> 
 Bob makes an excellent point. I've seen cases where even "solid" dielectric
 did that over time because, after all, it is not really solid. The
 dielectric is plastic so the coax can be bent.
 
 All coax has a minimum bending radius specification. Specific data is
 available on line but, in general, RG58 size cable usually has a minimum
 radius of 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) and RG8 size cable has a minimum
 radius of at least 2 inches (5 cm). Note that is radius. If you curl the
 cable into a circle the minimum diameter of that circle should be at least
 twice that or 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm).
 
 It's not something I've found especially critical in HF applications at
 least around my shack, but tighter bends, which may not actually cause a
 short (yet), alter the impedance as the center conductor migrates toward
 one
 side so it is no longer equally spaced within the shield. This can be a
 serious issue in microwave and even UHF installations.
 
 73, Ron AC7AC
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 I would have concern that long term usage of RG-8X, being foam core
 dielectric material and bent in a tight radius, may allow the center
 conductor to migrate to the inside radius of the bend.  The Minimum Bend
 Radius for RG-8X is 2.50". Thus the tight bend will allow the center
 conductor to short to the shield.  A solid core dielectric coax such as
 RG-303  is much preferred.
 
 73
 Bob, K4TAX
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

A favorite of mine for transmission line transformers or common-mode chokes 
(a.k.a. "baluns") is to use a twisted pair instead of coax. Cheap and effective 
and with a little calculation you can approximate any impedance line you want. 

K2 builders know this technique from winding T6 in their rigs. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
 I would have concern that long term usage of RG-8X, being foam core 
 dielectric material and bent in a tight radius, may allow the 
 center conductor to migrate to the inside radius of the bend.  The Minimum 
 Bend
 Radius for RG-8X is 2.50". Thus the tight bend will allow the center
 conductor to short to the shield.  A solid core dielectric coax 
 such as
 RG-303  is much preferred.
 
 73
 Bob, K4TAX

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Robert Nobis]

I have used RG303/U for chokes.  A bit smaller diameter than RG400 (0.170 
versus 0.195 inches). RG303/U has a solid copper center conductor that is 
silver plated.  The shield for RG303 is also silver plated copper. The jacket 
is Class 9 Teflon. Also the dielectric material is teflon.

73,


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


> On Feb 6, 2016, at 17:49, Guy Olinger K2AV  wrote:
> 
> If one wants a small 50 ohm coax that will take QRO with a very large
> margin and was *designed* for bending and use in aircraft wiring harnesses
> then use RG400 to wind around your core. RG400 uses a fine stranded
> silvered copper center conductor that is more flexible than its Teflon
> dielectric. It has a double shield made from silvered copper strands.
> 
> That's silvered strands whose silver sulphide patina or tarnish is
> conductive as opposed to the green copper sulphate that separates copper
> strands that have been water soaked.
> 
> Wind the coil form with RG59 to get the length and buy just what RG400 you
> need. You can buy brand new RG400 by the foot.  With the Teflon dielectric
> you can solder the RG400 without worrying about melting it.
> 
> Do it with the good stuff to start with and put it in your will.
> 
> 73, Guy K2AV
> 
> On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:
> 
>> Bob makes an excellent point. I've seen cases where even "solid" dielectric
>> did that over time because, after all, it is not really solid. The
>> dielectric is plastic so the coax can be bent.
>> 
>> All coax has a minimum bending radius specification. Specific data is
>> available on line but, in general, RG58 size cable usually has a minimum
>> radius of 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) and RG8 size cable has a minimum
>> radius of at least 2 inches (5 cm). Note that is radius. If you curl the
>> cable into a circle the minimum diameter of that circle should be at least
>> twice that or 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm).
>> 
>> It's not something I've found especially critical in HF applications at
>> least around my shack, but tighter bends, which may not actually cause a
>> short (yet), alter the impedance as the center conductor migrates toward
>> one
>> side so it is no longer equally spaced within the shield. This can be a
>> serious issue in microwave and even UHF installations.
>> 
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> I would have concern that long term usage of RG-8X, being foam core
>> dielectric material and bent in a tight radius, may allow the center
>> conductor to migrate to the inside radius of the bend.  The Minimum Bend
>> Radius for RG-8X is 2.50". Thus the tight bend will allow the center
>> conductor to short to the shield.  A solid core dielectric coax such as
>> RG-303  is much preferred.
>> 
>> 73
>> Bob, K4TAX
>> 
>> 
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksysproduces birdies)

[Clay Autery]

ALL Cat-5 and CAT-5e is 4-pair wire.   All Cat-5 wires are NOT alike... 
Just like NOT all HF+6 radios are alike...  Buy "Elecraft" quality
CAT-5e cables, and you shouldn't have to worry about it.  Unless you're
worried about signal leakage arounf or above the design frequency of
near about 300 MHz.

If y'all really want to know the concrete vs. spec diffs in Cat-5e to
CAT-6, again... I will outline them to you...

Cannot imagine what kind of wire you think was 2-pair and Cat-5 
Only POTS wire is usally seen as 2 pair... and I'm pretty sure it is not
twisted pair...  Even CAT-3 is 3-pair...

Whatever works for you, though.

__
Clay Autery

On 2/6/2016 11:24 AM, Larry Gauthier (K8UT) wrote:
> John
>
> I think I have been mis-understood; or perhaps I mis-spoke. ;-)
>
> I could not migrate to gigabit ethernet from 10 MBPS because the CAT5
> cable I was using only had two available pairs. I replaced the CAT5
> with CAT6 with 4 available pairs, but that alone would not have solved
> my birdie problem. The real "fix" was in the move from 10 -> 1000. I
> do not believe that changing cables alone will solve your problem.
>
> -larry (K8UT)
> -Original Message- From: John Shadle
> Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 10:14 AM
> To: David Ahrendts
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka
> Linksysproduces birdies)
>
> Thank, all. I may have to look into that. It may just involve changing
> out
> some runs of the cable. I used either CAT5 or CAT5e in all my runs. Just
> odd that the noise is coming from the one location and not the others,
> though. Ah well!
>
> -john NE4U
>
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:15 AM, David Ahrendts 
> wrote:
>
>> John, I’ll concur with Larry. I have several D-Link gigabit switches
>> using
>> CAT6 cable with no apparent noise, and I believe their “green”
>> technology
>> actually shuts off unused ports when not in use. Amazon.
>>
>> David A., KK6DA, LA
>>
>> On Feb 5, 2016, at 1:48 AM, Larry Gauthier (K8UT) 
>> wrote:
>>
>> John,
>>
>> I had a similar situation here with a LinkSys switch. Tried a NetGear
>> switch and the birdies moved - but were still present. Solved the
>> problem
>> by moving all networked devices from cat5 10 mb to cat6 1000t gigabit
>> ethernet.
>>
>> -larry (K8UT)
>> -Original Message- From: John Shadle
>> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 1:07 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka
>> Linksysproduces birdies)
>>
>> I just completed my K3S build and initial configuration. Woohoo. I was
>> tuning around the bands, and I noticed birdies *everywhere*. Every
>> 20-30Hz
>> on 40m there was one -- and it was LOUD. I thought that something was up
>> with my build, but then started doing an internet search for "K3
>> birdies".
>> I saw one person (from a 2010 post on this list) note that the birdies
>> could be coming from network devices (routers). A-ha!
>>
>> Initially, I thought it had something to do with my ASUS wireless router
>> being extremely close to my operation location. I unplugged it, and the
>> noise went away. Then I plugged it back in and removed, one by one, the
>> connections to various devices (network storage, my shack computer,
>> and the
>> line that runs to my upstairs office). It just so happens that I had
>> installed a network switch recently (produced by Linksys, and on sale at
>> Best Buy last week). I unplugged the cable going to that switch, and the
>> noise went away. I then plugged it back in, and went to the office and
>> disconnected the power from the Linksys switch. Noise is gone again.
>>
>> So, I'm looking for a new network switch. Does anyone have advice on
>> what
>> has worked for them?
>>
>> Alternately, any idea on how to get the network switch from producing
>> these
>> awful birdies?
>>
>> I'm *not* looking for a new router -- but just a switch.
>>
>> Thanks.
>> -john NE4U
>> Madison, WI
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>> David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> 

Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

RG303 is not rated for the tight bends.  RG400 with its fine stranded
center conductor is rated for corner bends in aircraft wiring harnesses and
will not deform the dielectric within the bends. I would not wind any solid
center conductor coax on a toroid.

I would only buy cut lengths of RG400 after the lengths for a project are
known. Some number of such suppliers on eBay. One currently listed at 1.98
per foot:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RG400-Coaxial-Cable-Mil-spec-by-the-ft-US-supplier-/251260159394?hash=item3a8045c5a2:g:WpAAAOxy43FRafUe

True it ain't ham cheep. The good stuff that lasts and lasts almost never
is. Back in the early days of eBay I came by a 142' length of RG400 for
$25. That's $0.178  a foot  I also came by bundles of miscellaneous 6 foot
to 15 foot jumpers with various connectors on end for similar ridiculous
low prices per foot.

The silvered copper strands stand up to migration of dampness in a way not
possible with same size copper strands minus the silvering. I have
*measured* the dry RF resistance at 1.83 MHz of a 67 foot length of
corroded #14 stranded plain copper at 62 ohms. When new this wire had
resistance at RF of less than an ohm. I have never found the silvered
copper equivalent in anything remotely approaching that degraded state.

RG400 wound on the proper core for the job will last a lifetime.

73, Guy K2AV

On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Robert Nobis  wrote:

> I have used RG303/U for chokes.  A bit smaller diameter than RG400 (0.170
> versus 0.195 inches). RG303/U has a solid copper center conductor that is
> silver plated.  The shield for RG303 is also silver plated copper. The
> jacket is Class 9 Teflon. Also the dielectric material is teflon.
>
> 73,
>
>
> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
> n7...@nobis.net
>
>
> > On Feb 6, 2016, at 17:49, Guy Olinger K2AV  wrote:
> >
> > If one wants a small 50 ohm coax that will take QRO with a very large
> > margin and was *designed* for bending and use in aircraft wiring
> harnesses
> > then use RG400 to wind around your core. RG400 uses a fine stranded
> > silvered copper center conductor that is more flexible than its Teflon
> > dielectric. It has a double shield made from silvered copper strands.
> >
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Vic Rosenthal]

Wow, that is eye opening! I always thought I was just lazy/cheap when I merely 
polished my amplifier tank coils and sprayed them with clear plastic (Krylon), 
but it seems I was doing the right thing after all.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 7 Feb 2016, at 3:48 AM, Wes (N7WS)  wrote:
> 
> On oft repeated myth.
> 
> See: http://k6mhe.com/n7ws/Plating.pdf
> 
> 
>> On 2/6/2016 5:49 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
>> 
>> That's silvered strands whose silver sulphide patina or tarnish is
>> conductive as opposed to the green copper sulphate that separates copper
>> strands that have been water soaked.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Jim Brown]

On Sat,2/6/2016 4:33 PM, Jim Allen wrote:

Almost all of G3TXQ's tests on his website with ferrite core baluns involved 
RG58, so I figured RG8X would be even better.  I have a lot of it, and no RG58.


Did you study the material on my website? My measurement method is 
clearly described in several of the publications, including the RFI 
tutorial, the AES Paper, and the Power Point for talks I've done for 
several ham clubs and conventions. The equipment consists of an HP 
Generator and HP Spectrum Analyzer (which was used as a terminated RF 
voltmeter).


My work, and its publication precedes G3TXQ's by at least five years. 
His work is clearly inspired by mine (and I would think by W1HIS's), yet 
he fails to credit either of us. All of my writing credits others who 
have made important contributions on the topic I'm writing about. I did, 
for example, reference work and texts by Henry Ott, Clayton Paul, W1HIS, 
E. C. Snelling, Neil Muncy, Bill Whitlock, Jerry Sevick, and Doug DeMaw 
in the RFI tutorial.


The "Cookbook" that is part of my RFI tutorial is based directly on the 
measured data that is discussed throughout the tutorial and summarized 
in Appendix One.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka > Linksysproduces birdies)

[Al Gulseth]

Bob,

Just a quick question here. Are your power feeds Romex/NM, or is everything 
run in conduit? Would/could that make a difference (i.e. can electrical noise 
from a device such as a modem/router or its power supply be radiated via the 
home's AC wiring?)

TNX/73, Al

On  Sat, 6 Feb 2016 12:03:39 -0600 Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

> After reading all of this, I investigated my system here.  First, no
> birdies found on any of the bands.  WHEW!   Noise on the 160M center fed
> wire w/balanced feed line is about S-3 this morning, noise on the coax
> fed 75M inverted V is S-2, and noise on the coax fed  40M inverted V is
> S-3, and noise on the coax fed 20M inverted V is S-3. These seem to be a
> bit higher then normal but it is Saturday and everybody is home in the
> neighborhood.
>
> Our system arrives with fiber underground to the box the TELCO provided
> on the end of the house.  Out of that box runs a CAT5E cable up the
> wall, into the attic, across the attic and drops through the ceiling,
> then around the bookcase desk to the modem/switch sitting under the
> desk.The modem/switch is a CISCO LinkSys EA4500.  Two of the ports
> are being used, printer and laptop,  and the other two are open.   The
> power for the modem/switch, power for the computer, the printer, the CLF
> lamp on the desk along with the radios all come from one power source
> being a dedicated 20A service back to the main breaker panel, again at
> the far end of the house, on the inside wall, being the same wall the
> CAT5E cable runs up to the attic.   The run from the TELCO box to the
> station is about 75 ft.  Same from the breaker panel to the operating
> position for station and amp power.  Those feeds are #12-2 w/ ground and
> #10-3 w/ground respectively.  Being in the middle and upstairs of a 2
> story house there is no station ground to the outside world, other than
> the provided safety 3rd pin ground as required.  I do have a dedicated
> 240V 20A service for the amp and that service is in the attic back to
> the main breaker panel.
>
> Antennas are all above the roof, no more than 50 ft and less with the
> tower at the corner of the house, and mostly less with a couple, 40M
> wire and 20M wire actually having the ends terminated at the eve of the
> 2nd story.  The point being, there is not a lot of physical separation
> between the CAT5E cable and the antennas and power wiring.
>
> To me it is very puzzling why so many seem to have issues and a few do
> not.  I could elaborate about station equipment connectivity.  It would
> most likely start a controversy as to what is correct and what is
> incorrect.  My point, if one is having issues, this should trigger a
> thought to investigate how and what is configured with the station.  In
> some cases, I'm sure certain equipment is more prone to generate
> noise/birdies than others.
>
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Wes (N7WS)]

On oft repeated myth.

See: http://k6mhe.com/n7ws/Plating.pdf


On 2/6/2016 5:49 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:


That's silvered strands whose silver sulphide patina or tarnish is
conductive as opposed to the green copper sulphate that separates copper
strands that have been water soaked.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

[Dave Cole]

Isn't that how the Transporter in Star Trek works?  :)
-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave

For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

For MixW support see:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info

For SSTV help see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info



On Sun, 2016-02-07 at 00:03 +, David Woolley wrote:
> Noise reduction is a difficult problem and hearing aid manufacturers 
> have been trying to solve it for the last couple of decades.
> 
> One important point to note is that noise reduction is normally aimed
> at 
> reducing subjective noise and therefore reducing fatigue.  Generally 
> what you are doing is actually recognising signal, then suppressing 
> those frequencies that are not conveying the signal.  The noise on
> the 
> same frequencies as important parts of the signal still gets through.
> 
> You cannot remove noise unless you have first identified the signal,
> so 
> you cannot remove the noise that is masking an unknown signal.
> 
> The simplest noise reduction is a narrow band CW filter!  The
> ultimate 
> noise reduction for CW would be to decode the signal, and regenerate
> it, 
> but that is currently only possible for signals that are already
> clean 
> an well formed.
> 
> Decode and  recreate might be the ultimate solution for hearing aids,
> as 
> well.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] APF (audio peaking filter) on the K3/K3S/KX3

[Bill W4ZV]

N1EU wrote
> I suspect that when the K3 APF was first engineered, the Yaesu FT-1000D
> APF
> (original hi-Q version) was used as the model because many prominent
> dx'ers/topbanders always raved about it.

I lifted the "original" FT-1000D APF from the schematic in 2009 and Al W6LX
did a circuit simulation on it.  Al's description provided the roadmap for
what Elecraft eventually implemented in the K3's DSP in 2010.  

http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft%40mailman.qth.net/msg105227.html

As Wayne has suggested previously, APF works best if you use a relatively
wide DSP setting (I use 400 Hz).  I trick my K3 into using my 200 Hz XFIL at
DSP=400 by setting the XFIL BW to 400 (similar idea to what Wayne recently
suggested with the 2.7/2.8 XFIL for better NB).  The wider DSP BW keeps the
ringing down and gives your ear/brain a better background to discriminate
signals through the 30 Hz APF without ringing while the wide (5 pole) 200 Hz
XFIL still gives good protection from nearby strong signal overload. 
Setting the VFO is not as critical compared to narrow DSP settings, and I
use APF virtually all the time...even in contests.  This signal path may
help visualize what I'm doing:

signal >> 200 Hz XFIL >> 400 Hz DSP >> 30 Hz APF >>  ear/brain

73,  Bill  W4ZV



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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I just discovered the same thing. I found the perfect noise to try it on 
on 15m, too.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 6 Feb 2016 12:34, Bill W4ZV wrote:

wayne burdick wrote

2.8 kHz should give some improvement over a narrow filter on some types of
noise. Worth a try. Just temporarily tell the firmware that it's a little
bit wider than your narrow filter, then use the WIDTH control to switch
between narrow and wide. Re-optimize the NB settings each time.


I've been having a problem with a pulse type electric fencer (not the 60 Hz
cycling buzz type which is impossible to cure with a blanker).  Most radios'
NBs deal effectively with pulses but for some reason (firmware change) my K3
(#4717) is not.  I decided to try Wayne's suggestion even though I only have
the 2.7 kHz stock filter.

The problem with Wayne's suggestion is that the K3 Utility will not accept
0.45 as a valid width for the 2.7 kHz filter because it is used for TX on
CW/SSB and bandwidths <2.7 kHz are not allowed.  Is there a workaround for
this or am I doing something wrong?

73,  Bill  W4ZV

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

[Bill W4ZV]

wayne burdick wrote
> 2.8 kHz should give some improvement over a narrow filter on some types of
> noise. Worth a try. Just temporarily tell the firmware that it's a little
> bit wider than your narrow filter, then use the WIDTH control to switch
> between narrow and wide. Re-optimize the NB settings each time.

I've been having a problem with a pulse type electric fencer (not the 60 Hz
cycling buzz type which is impossible to cure with a blanker).  Most radios'
NBs deal effectively with pulses but for some reason (firmware change) my K3
(#4717) is not.  I decided to try Wayne's suggestion even though I only have
the 2.7 kHz stock filter.  

The problem with Wayne's suggestion is that the K3 Utility will not accept
0.45 as a valid width for the 2.7 kHz filter because it is used for TX on
CW/SSB and bandwidths <2.7 kHz are not allowed.  Is there a workaround for
this or am I doing something wrong?

73,  Bill  W4ZV




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