Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference - GPSDO

[Edward R Cole]

Olli,

Referring to page 8 in the K3 Owner's Manual (may be a different page 
for the K3s):


"Frequency Stability  +/- 5 ppm for the TCXO standard; +/- 1ppm for 
the optional TCXO."

TCXO-1 and TCXO-3 respectively mentioned above.

ppm means one part per million (1Hz per million Hz which is 1Hz per MHz).
So frequency drift is proportional to the operating frequency.

1ppm at 10-MHz is 10-Hz;1ppm at 28-MHz is 28-Hz
TCXO-1 provides 5ppm (+/- 50 Hz at 10-MHz and +/- 140 Hz at 28-MHz)
TCXO-3 provides 1ppm (+/- 10 Hz at 10-MHz and +/- 28 Hz at 28-MHz)

the basic frequency stability is determined by which TCXO is 
installed in your K3.


EXREF "essentially" checks frequency drift of whichever TCXO you have 
installed at a fixed time interval of about 4-seconds.  It uses a 
high stability 10-MHz external signal to compare with the 49.380-MHz 
TCXO and corrects the drift that occurs over the 4-second interval.


My measurements of the TCXO-3 show about half the published spec of 
1ppm (14 Hz at 28-MHz) and the EXREF limits the drift of the TCXO-3 
to about 2 Hz.  If I had the TCXO-1 installed, I would expect five 
times as much drift.


So which TCXO you install directly impacts frequency stability.  The 
EXREF reduces that by about an order of five.  The EXREF is not the 
source of stable LO but merely improves what you have 
installed.  Does that clear it up?


73, Ed - KL7UW

The question to ask is what amount of frequency stability and 
accuracy is important for your type of operations.


Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 08:17:32 +0100
From: Oliver Dr?se 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference - GPSDO
Message-ID: <56e3c28c.90...@necg.de>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Why would I need the TCXO-3 instead of the TCXO-1 when using the K3EXREF
if the accuracy and stability is provided by the EXREF? Am I overlooking
something here?

Tnx & 73, Olli - DH8BQA

Contest, DX & radio projects: http://www.dh8bqa.de



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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[Elecraft] InRad 700 Hz Filters

[Mark Stennett]

I have two of these, brand new in the box.

$140 each, shipped to lower 48.


73 de na6m

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Re: [Elecraft] Foot Switch wiring question...

[Don Wilhelm]

Clay,

Use twisted pair wire between the switch and the RCA Plug.  The tighter 
the twist the better.

If you use that, there is no need for shielding.
If you do use a shield, connect it to the outside of the enclosure of 
the K3S (the RCA jack is grounded, but not to the outside of the enclosure).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/12/2016 4:46 PM, Clay Autery wrote:

Hooking up a Linemaster Clipper Model No. 632-S to my K3s rear PTT RCA jack.

Obviously, the RCA is 2-conductor unbalanced and there is no issue about
which terminals to use on the foot switch for normally open switching.

BUT, I want to make sure the foot switch cable is never an issue for RFI
in or out.




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Re: [Elecraft] Foot Switch wiring question...

[Clay Autery]

Well, I'm not BUYING any Canare cable...  just re-purposing 1/3 of a
component cable I made a long time ago (and haven't needed in a decade),
OR using some leftover Star Quad (if I can find it).  I happen to have
50 NEW, unused Canare RCA connectors in the size required for L5-CFB
cable (think slightly bigger than 1/4", but 75 Ohm).
I realize broadcast quality cable is overkill... simply trying to not
buy new stuff right now if I don't need to... but don't want to "get by
for now" and let a potential RFI candidate into the system.

The REAL question is should I worry about an isolated chassis to chassis
shield, or simply use a flexible coax, or a nice and flexible
twisted-pair mic cable without a separate shield?

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 3/12/2016 3:58 PM, GRANT YOUNGMAN wrote:
> I’ve never had any problem with RFI on my footswitch, running legal
> limit from not all that far away.  Any old shielded cable ought to do
> just fine — think Radio Shack quality junk.
>
> Certainly no need for Canare in this application.
>
>
> Grant NQ5T
> K3 #2091, KX3 #8342
>
>
>
>
>> On Mar 12, 2016, at 3:46 PM, Clay Autery > > wrote:
>>
>> Hooking up a Linemaster Clipper Model No. 632-S to my K3s rear PTT
>> RCA jack.
>>
>> Obviously, the RCA is 2-conductor unbalanced and there is no issue about
>> which terminals to use on the foot switch for normally open switching.
>>
>> BUT, I want to make sure the foot switch cable is never an issue for RFI
>> in or out.
>>
>> Options:
>>
>> 1) Use one-third of the Component cable assembly I built a long time ago
>> with nice Canare RCA connectors and L5-CFB coax. (simply cut of one
>> connector and connect the center conductor to the NO terminal and the
>> braid to the C terminal) for a quick and free solution.  Kind of stiff
>> with solid center conductor.
>>
>> 2) Use unshielded twisted-pair 2-conductor (or shielded leaving shield
>> disconnected) cable. (Have to buy a an RCA connector.)
>>
>> 3) Use shielded 2-4 conductor mic cable (nice and flexible).  I think I
>> have some Canare Star Quad around somewhere (Still have to buy the RCA
>> connector).
>>
>> My question is:
>>
>> *Do I need to worry about shielding this cable?*  I've got a ground to
>> pick up the shield in the foot switch, but no place to pick up a chassis
>> ground cleanly in the back of the K3s...  I could terminate the shield
>> to the RCA housing at the radio end, but that's going to the connector
>> board...
>>
>> Alternatively, I could pull the shield out of the cable near the RCA
>> cable plug at sufficient length to pick up the chassis ground screw on
>> the back of the chassis with a ring terminal (not clean, have to buy RCA
>> connector and MAYBE the cable if I can't find my spare Canare Star Quad
>> mic cable).
>>
>> I'm going to use the re-purposed component cable described above for
>> now, but I don't really want to EVER have to worry about this control
>> cable giving me issues.  I know it's a small thing, but if I cover all
>> the small things as I go along, it'll be less work to isolate problems
>> if/when they crop up down the line.
>>
>> Jim?
>>
>> Thanks a bunch!
>>
>> -- 
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KG5LKV
>> (318) 518-1389
>>
>> __
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>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>

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Re: [Elecraft] Foot Switch wiring question...

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

I’ve never had any problem with RFI on my footswitch, running legal limit from 
not all that far away.  Any old shielded cable ought to do just fine — think 
Radio Shack quality junk.

Certainly no need for Canare in this application.


Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342




> On Mar 12, 2016, at 3:46 PM, Clay Autery  wrote:
> 
> Hooking up a Linemaster Clipper Model No. 632-S to my K3s rear PTT RCA jack.
> 
> Obviously, the RCA is 2-conductor unbalanced and there is no issue about
> which terminals to use on the foot switch for normally open switching.
> 
> BUT, I want to make sure the foot switch cable is never an issue for RFI
> in or out.
> 
> Options:
> 
> 1) Use one-third of the Component cable assembly I built a long time ago
> with nice Canare RCA connectors and L5-CFB coax. (simply cut of one
> connector and connect the center conductor to the NO terminal and the
> braid to the C terminal) for a quick and free solution.  Kind of stiff
> with solid center conductor.
> 
> 2) Use unshielded twisted-pair 2-conductor (or shielded leaving shield
> disconnected) cable. (Have to buy a an RCA connector.)
> 
> 3) Use shielded 2-4 conductor mic cable (nice and flexible).  I think I
> have some Canare Star Quad around somewhere (Still have to buy the RCA
> connector).
> 
> My question is:
> 
> *Do I need to worry about shielding this cable?*  I've got a ground to
> pick up the shield in the foot switch, but no place to pick up a chassis
> ground cleanly in the back of the K3s...  I could terminate the shield
> to the RCA housing at the radio end, but that's going to the connector
> board...
> 
> Alternatively, I could pull the shield out of the cable near the RCA
> cable plug at sufficient length to pick up the chassis ground screw on
> the back of the chassis with a ring terminal (not clean, have to buy RCA
> connector and MAYBE the cable if I can't find my spare Canare Star Quad
> mic cable).
> 
> I'm going to use the re-purposed component cable described above for
> now, but I don't really want to EVER have to worry about this control
> cable giving me issues.  I know it's a small thing, but if I cover all
> the small things as I go along, it'll be less work to isolate problems
> if/when they crop up down the line.
> 
> Jim?
> 
> Thanks a bunch!
> 
> -- 
> __
> Clay Autery, KG5LKV
> (318) 518-1389
> 
> __
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[Elecraft] Foot Switch wiring question...

[Clay Autery]

Hooking up a Linemaster Clipper Model No. 632-S to my K3s rear PTT RCA jack.

Obviously, the RCA is 2-conductor unbalanced and there is no issue about
which terminals to use on the foot switch for normally open switching.

BUT, I want to make sure the foot switch cable is never an issue for RFI
in or out.

Options:

1) Use one-third of the Component cable assembly I built a long time ago
with nice Canare RCA connectors and L5-CFB coax. (simply cut of one
connector and connect the center conductor to the NO terminal and the
braid to the C terminal) for a quick and free solution.  Kind of stiff
with solid center conductor.

2) Use unshielded twisted-pair 2-conductor (or shielded leaving shield
disconnected) cable. (Have to buy a an RCA connector.)

3) Use shielded 2-4 conductor mic cable (nice and flexible).  I think I
have some Canare Star Quad around somewhere (Still have to buy the RCA
connector).

My question is:

*Do I need to worry about shielding this cable?*  I've got a ground to
pick up the shield in the foot switch, but no place to pick up a chassis
ground cleanly in the back of the K3s...  I could terminate the shield
to the RCA housing at the radio end, but that's going to the connector
board...

Alternatively, I could pull the shield out of the cable near the RCA
cable plug at sufficient length to pick up the chassis ground screw on
the back of the chassis with a ring terminal (not clean, have to buy RCA
connector and MAYBE the cable if I can't find my spare Canare Star Quad
mic cable).

I'm going to use the re-purposed component cable described above for
now, but I don't really want to EVER have to worry about this control
cable giving me issues.  I know it's a small thing, but if I cover all
the small things as I go along, it'll be less work to isolate problems
if/when they crop up down the line.

Jim?

Thanks a bunch!

-- 
__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

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Re: [Elecraft] Field repair of blown K3 front end?

[Randy Farmer]

Must be D5. Removing the KXV3 and shorting pins 8 &10 and 13 & 15 on its 
socket restores full sensitivity to the Main receiver. Thanks again, guys.


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 3/12/2016 1:32 PM, Randy Farmer wrote:
Excellent! Thanks to Dave, Joe and Don for the useful information. The 
K3 is now on the bench and I'll start work soon. It most likely is D5 
on the KXV3.


Thank y'all for the quick response.

73...
Randy, W8FN


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Re: [Elecraft] Field repair of blown K3 front end?

[Randy Farmer]

Excellent! Thanks to Dave, Joe and Don for the useful information. The 
K3 is now on the bench and I'll start work soon. It most likely is D5 on 
the KXV3.


Thank y'all for the quick response.

73...
Randy, W8FN

On 3/12/2016 9:43 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Randy,

I suggest you contact K3support - they can likely give you a small 
number of probable failure points.  That will allow you to choose 
field repair or send it to Watsonville.


73,
Don W3FPR 


On 3/12/2016 11:24 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


Randy,

Is the main RX dead all the time (when using only Main RX - Sub RX
off)?

Two quick things to check ...

1) if the Main RX is dead all the time and you have KXV3/A/B boards
   in each rig, swap them.  If the problem moves with the KXV3, the
   problem is most likely D5.

2) If the Main RX works if the Sub RX is off and you have KRX3 in
   in each rig, swap the SUB IN boards.  This eliminates an issue
   with T1 (the splitter) and D1/D2 T/R switch PIN Diodes.

The first thing to check is the KXV3 ... If you don't have a second
KXV3, check the schematics for bypassing the potentially defective
one (J66, pins 13 & 15 and pins 8 & 10).

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV 



On 3/12/2016 11:32 AM, Dave Hachadorian wrote:

Here ya go:
http://marc.info/?l=elecraft=145323127930319=2

If you have the KXV3 installed, it is probably D5.  I checked the 
Mouser part number for the heavy-duty replacement, and it's still good.



Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ


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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 no Ant. 1/2 switching

[Dick Dievendorff]

There's a KXPA Utility configuration option to disable ANT 1 or ANT 2, per
band.  Could you check that?

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Max
Cotton
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2016 09:53
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPA100 no Ant. 1/2 switching

Title says it all, works fine on ant 1 but will not switch to Ant 2. relay
is OK. Ideas? before I do any deep diagnostics.73, Max W8BX

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Utility and Programmable Macros??

[Jerry Moore]

Bear with me because this is from my memory. To the best of my knowledge you 
have to use the up button and down button to change values and cannot directly 
enter the value. As I recall Wayne stated it would be added to a future 
revision but apparently isn't present in the firmware you have which is likely 
the most recent.

This was a while back so I could be mistaken , however , this is exactly what I 
was doing at the time.

On March 12, 2016 12:58:08 PM EST, cx...@4email.net wrote:
>
>Attempting to set up K3s to do the following as per example in KE7X
>manual, p 212, under Macro Sequencing. His example is to program Macro
>4
>to change the AGC THR to 020 and Macro 5 to AGC 012 by using a Tap of
>M1.  I do not wish to lose the ability to send cw with M1 so wish to
>use
>M4.
>
>Here is my coding for:
>Macro 4:  MN074;MP020;SWT14;MN110;SWT27;SWH41;MN255;
>
>Macro 5:  MN074;MP012;SWT14;MN110;SWT24;SWH41;MN255;
>
>When I test, via the Utility using Macro 4 it changes AGC to 020
>confirmed by tapping M4.
>
>Same when selecting Macro 5, it changes AGC to 012, confirmed by
>tapping
>M4.
>
>However, repeated taps of M4 simply show the last selection, in case
>Macro 5.
>
>Also, after tapping M4 VFOs show 012 in A and AGC THR in B, until
>tapping M4 again.  For contesting, this does not work for an efficient
>operation.
>
>So, what have I missed with my programming? How can I use M4 to cycle
>between 012 and 020 and recover my freq display?
>
>73
>Tom
>HP1/K6CT
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-- 
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
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[Elecraft] K3s Utility and Programmable Macros??

[cx7tt]

Attempting to set up K3s to do the following as per example in KE7X
manual, p 212, under Macro Sequencing. His example is to program Macro 4
to change the AGC THR to 020 and Macro 5 to AGC 012 by using a Tap of
M1.  I do not wish to lose the ability to send cw with M1 so wish to use
M4.

Here is my coding for:
Macro 4:  MN074;MP020;SWT14;MN110;SWT27;SWH41;MN255;

Macro 5:  MN074;MP012;SWT14;MN110;SWT24;SWH41;MN255;

When I test, via the Utility using Macro 4 it changes AGC to 020
confirmed by tapping M4.

Same when selecting Macro 5, it changes AGC to 012, confirmed by tapping
M4.

However, repeated taps of M4 simply show the last selection, in case
Macro 5.

Also, after tapping M4 VFOs show 012 in A and AGC THR in B, until
tapping M4 again.  For contesting, this does not work for an efficient
operation.

So, what have I missed with my programming? How can I use M4 to cycle
between 012 and 020 and recover my freq display?

73
Tom
HP1/K6CT
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[Elecraft] KXPA100 no Ant. 1/2 switching

[Max Cotton]

Title says it all, works fine on ant 1 but will not switch to Ant 2. relay is 
OK. Ideas? before I do any deep diagnostics.73, Max W8BX

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Re: [Elecraft] Field repair of blown K3 front end?

[Dave Hachadorian]

Here ya go:
http://marc.info/?l=elecraft=145323127930319=2

If you have the KXV3 installed, it is probably D5.  I checked the 
Mouser part number for the heavy-duty replacement, and it's still 
good.



Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ


-Original Message- 
From: Randy Farmer

Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2016 8:36 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Field repair of blown K3 front end?

Due to an unlucky combination of station configuration and a bad 
TX gain

calibration in my K3s (since corrected) I've managed to burn out
something in the front end chain in my second station K3. I've 
verified
the problem is in the signal path between the ATU inputs and the 
input

to the main receiver. The Sub receiver is working correctly when
connected via the AUX RF input connector, but dead in normal 
split mode.
I've had a look at the schematic and can see a couple of probable 
points

of failure.

But... I wonder if anyone else has encountered the problem and 
done a
successful field repair. I'd have no particular trouble replacing 
one or
two parts on the main board, but without a board layout it would 
take a
fair amount of effort to find the suspect parts. I'm also not 
interested
in completely dismantling the radio if that's what it would take 
to

effect the repair.

Has anyone else found and fixed such a problem? I'd be very 
interested

in hearing your experience.

73...
Randy, W8FN
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Re: [Elecraft] Field repair of blown K3 front end?

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Randy,

Is the main RX dead all the time (when using only Main RX - Sub RX
off)?

Two quick things to check ...

1) if the Main RX is dead all the time and you have KXV3/A/B boards
   in each rig, swap them.  If the problem moves with the KXV3, the
   problem is most likely D5.

2) If the Main RX works if the Sub RX is off and you have KRX3 in
   in each rig, swap the SUB IN boards.  This eliminates an issue
   with T1 (the splitter) and D1/D2 T/R switch PIN Diodes.

The first thing to check is the KXV3 ... If you don't have a second
KXV3, check the schematics for bypassing the potentially defective
one (J66, pins 13 & 15 and pins 8 & 10).

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/12/2016 10:36 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:

Due to an unlucky combination of station configuration and a bad TX gain
calibration in my K3s (since corrected) I've managed to burn out
something in the front end chain in my second station K3. I've verified
the problem is in the signal path between the ATU inputs and the input
to the main receiver. The Sub receiver is working correctly when
connected via the AUX RF input connector, but dead in normal split mode.
I've had a look at the schematic and can see a couple of probable points
of failure.

But... I wonder if anyone else has encountered the problem and done a
successful field repair. I'd have no particular trouble replacing one or
two parts on the main board, but without a board layout it would take a
fair amount of effort to find the suspect parts. I'm also not interested
in completely dismantling the radio if that's what it would take to
effect the repair.

Has anyone else found and fixed such a problem? I'd be very interested
in hearing your experience.

73...
Randy, W8FN
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Re: [Elecraft] Field repair of blown K3 front end?

[Don Wilhelm]

Randy,

I suggest you contact K3support - they can likely give you a small 
number of probable failure points.  That will allow you to choose field 
repair or send it to Watsonville.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/12/2016 10:36 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
Due to an unlucky combination of station configuration and a bad TX 
gain calibration in my K3s (since corrected) I've managed to burn out 
something in the front end chain in my second station K3. I've 
verified the problem is in the signal path between the ATU inputs and 
the input to the main receiver. The Sub receiver is working correctly 
when connected via the AUX RF input connector, but dead in normal 
split mode. I've had a look at the schematic and can see a couple of 
probable points of failure.


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[Elecraft] Field repair of blown K3 front end?

[Randy Farmer]

Due to an unlucky combination of station configuration and a bad TX gain 
calibration in my K3s (since corrected) I've managed to burn out 
something in the front end chain in my second station K3. I've verified 
the problem is in the signal path between the ATU inputs and the input 
to the main receiver. The Sub receiver is working correctly when 
connected via the AUX RF input connector, but dead in normal split mode. 
I've had a look at the schematic and can see a couple of probable points 
of failure.


But... I wonder if anyone else has encountered the problem and done a 
successful field repair. I'd have no particular trouble replacing one or 
two parts on the main board, but without a board layout it would take a 
fair amount of effort to find the suspect parts. I'm also not interested 
in completely dismantling the radio if that's what it would take to 
effect the repair.


Has anyone else found and fixed such a problem? I'd be very interested 
in hearing your experience.


73...
Randy, W8FN
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[Elecraft] K3/100 For Sale Mint

[Ron Durie]

Elecraft K3/100; Late #7504, which includes all factory upgrades.  
This is an excellent useable K3, out of the box.

K3SYN3AUPG newest Synthesizer option installed.  This significantly improves
receiver performance.  

KXV3A Receive ANT IF out and XVRTR Interface board.  
KIO3 I/O board option.  

Standard KTCXO3 Reference Oscillator, 0.5PPM. 
KBPF3 General Coverage Receive option.  

Standard 5 pole 2.7 kHz crystal filter.
KAT3 Internal automatic antenna tuner option.  

In "Like New" condition.  No scratches or blemishes.  Even all the front
panel knobs are new.  One owner nonsmoker.  It is 18 months old. 

This is the 4th K3 I have built.  When I build, these I treat every
connector pin with Caig De-Oxit Pro gold solution, to prevent pin Oxidation;
intermittent connections; easy connector insertion; and very low contact
resistance.  

Includes PowerPole Power cable; Allen wrenches; PA Jumper; and all manuals. 

Contact me off line at:  WB4OOA at gmail.com 
$2795 Shipped CONUS.  PayPal; add 2%.  Check ok when cleared.  Pictures
available upon request. 

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Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz external reference - GPSDO

[David Anderson]

Oliver, I was wondering about this, I guess it is just that the short term 
drift is lower so it won't drift as much between frequency measurement 
corrections which are made for 1 second every 4 seconds according to some info 
recently published. I doubt it matters much though. I would be tempted to try 
it with the standard TCXO first.

Maybe someone from Elecraft would like to comment.

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 12 Mar 2016, at 07:17, Oliver Dröse  wrote:
> 
> Why would I need the TCXO-3 instead of the TCXO-1 when using the K3EXREF if 
> the accuracy and stability is provided by the EXREF? Am I overlooking 
> something here?
> 
> Tnx & 73, Olli - DH8BQA
> 
> Contest, DX & radio projects: http://www.dh8bqa.de
> 
> 
>> Am 11.03.2016 um 22:30 schrieb Edward R Cole:
>> First one needs to realize that the TCXO establishes the basic stability, so 
>> choosing the TCXO-3 over the TCXO-1 will provide better stability and 
>> accuracy (these are two different things).  I bought the TCXO-3 with my 
>> initial K3/10 purchase so the rest of what I say is with the better TCXO-3 
>> installed (if frequency is important then that is first thing I recommend 
>> updating).
>> 
>> Mostly, I use 28-MHz as a testing frequency since it is my VHF transverter 
>> IF.  On 28-MHz with only the TCXO-3, I see 14-Hz inaccuracy.  This 
>> 14/2800 = 0.5 ppm (I think this is better than Elecraft specs the 
>> TCXO-3).  Adding the EXREF I see 2-Hz which is "about" 0.1ppm.  Measurements 
>> on 50-MHz are proportional.  I see 3-4 Hz accuracy using the EXREF.
> 
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[Elecraft] FS: K3/100 w/options

[Ken K3IU]

I have purchased a new K3s and no longer have use for my old 
K3 friend #202. Of course, it is not pristine having been 
opened up and put back together many times over the last 9 
year, but it is fully functional and has been well 
maintained over the years with all known official mods and 
updates applicable to this serial number. Additionally, it 
has the new, and improved synthesizer board(KSYN3A) and 
Interface module (KXV3B) installed (Same as in new K3s). 
Upon request, I will provide a listing of all mods and 
updates accomplished. I am original owner and radio has 
always been in a non-smoking environment.


This is a K3/100 with the following options/updates installed.

K3/100 s/n 202
KBPA3   100 watt Internal PA
KAT3  Auto Tuner unit
KSYN3ANew Synthesizer board. Same as is in the K3s ($220)
KXV3B   New with 2 level preamp for 6, 10, & 12 meters. 
Same as in the K3s ($200)

Standard 5 pole 2.7 kHz crystal filter

All critical non-gold pin connectors nave been replaced with 
gold pin connectors.
All manuals, documentation, update details, power cord, hex 
wrenches, and RF board jumper block included.


New similarly equipped K3 sells for about $3200 plus s/h. 
Asking $2295 shipped UPS ground to CONUS. Will accept 
PayPal, USPS Money Order or bank draft.


Please reply off-reflector to 

73, Ken K3IU

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