Re: [Elecraft] RTTY Problems on K3

[Nr4c]

I think you need another program to make this work. It intercepts the serial 
port for the FSK/PTT and makes it all work together. 

I use 2-Tone instead of myth and seem to get by with just it and n1mm. 

For interface I use my WINKEYER-USB with the latest firmware. I use a “Y” 
adapter in the KEY line. The second line goes to K3/Acc2 FSK pin. “Diddles” go 
to FSK and “Dit-Dahs” go to CW.  works well. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On May 24, 2020, at 1:14 AM, "k...@pa.net"  wrote:
> 
> I am fairly new to the K3 but have no problems setting up N1MM and other 
> software, getting things to work properly. My problem is I cannot get RTTY to 
> send/TX. I have made a homebrew interface with optoisolators for both the FSK 
> line and the PTT line. I'm going from a separate serial port, pins 3 and 7, 
> for FSK and PTT, to the Assy(15 pin) connector. To pins 1 for FSK, 4 for PTT 
> and 5 for ground.
> 
> When I run MMTTY I cannot get the rig to key. If I switch to SSB or CW and 
> use the CAT line to work the PTT, no problem. If I switch to RTTY and try to 
> use the CAT line it will not key the TX. I've tried a variety of setting in 
> MMTTY and get no TX. I have a 1000MP set up with a similar homebrew interface 
> and have no issues.
> 
> Can anyone shed some help on me?
> 
> 73 Bill K3SV
> 
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[Elecraft] RTTY Problems on K3

[k...@pa.net]

I am fairly new to the K3 but have no problems setting up N1MM and  
other software, getting things to work properly. My problem is I  
cannot get RTTY to send/TX. I have made a homebrew interface with  
optoisolators for both the FSK line and the PTT line. I'm going from a  
separate serial port, pins 3 and 7, for FSK and PTT, to the Assy(15  
pin) connector. To pins 1 for FSK, 4 for PTT and 5 for ground.


When I run MMTTY I cannot get the rig to key. If I switch to SSB or CW  
and use the CAT line to work the PTT, no problem. If I switch to RTTY  
and try to use the CAT line it will not key the TX. I've tried a  
variety of setting in MMTTY and get no TX. I have a 1000MP set up with  
a similar homebrew interface and have no issues.


Can anyone shed some help on me?

73 Bill K3SV

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 distorted audio on certain freq.

[Mike Duke]

 Thank you Keith. I had forgotten to say that, this particular K2 has
only one add on board and that would be the side band board. There is no
noise blanker.
 Now I did go through each band looking for a aegment of distortion
that may be present on the other bands but being the time of day is
evening, could only check on 80 and 40 meters. Although earlier before
sunset there was still traffic on 20 meters but the whole band was clean.
 All of 80 meters was clean as well was 40 (except again on 7.184). It
sounds like a warbly distortion that a Ten-Tec Omni D or Corsair would
demonstrate when the VFO needs to be rebuilt.
 Tomorrow I will record an audio clip and post it.

 Thank you again.

Mike
Kj4pom


On Sat, May 23, 2020, 23:32 Keith Onishi  wrote:

> If you have strong pulse noise and noise blanker enabled for eliminating
> the noise, you may hear signals with some level of distortion.
> How distorted depends on the noise strength or pulse width of the noise.
> You may reduce RF gain of your receiver to improve relative signal to
> noise ratio and disable the noise blanker.
>
> 73 de JH3SIF, Keith
>
> > 2020/05/24 11:38、Mike Duke のメール:
> >
> > I have a new acquisition. I traded my Corsair II for a K2. Going
> > through it and finding small issues that need to be addressed.
> > Besides just needing a thorough alignment, have noticed that on 40
> > meters at 7184.00, the audio is extremely distorted but not on any other
> > part of that band. I have the owners manual, nothing in trouble shooting
> > about distortion.
> > Ser. #3631.  K2 IOC 1.07.  K2 MCU 203.   KSB2 1.07
> >
> > Every 5 minutes I also here a noise like a quick cyclic pulsing for
> > about 5 seconds and it goes away.
> >
> >  Does anyone know of a  regimen of procedures I could start to
> > troubleshoot and check these issues?
> >
> > Thank you
> >
> > Mike
> > Kj4pom
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 distorted audio on certain freq.

[Keith Onishi]

If you have strong pulse noise and noise blanker enabled for eliminating the 
noise, you may hear signals with some level of distortion.
How distorted depends on the noise strength or pulse width of the noise.
You may reduce RF gain of your receiver to improve relative signal to noise 
ratio and disable the noise blanker.

73 de JH3SIF, Keith

> 2020/05/24 11:38、Mike Duke のメール:
> 
> I have a new acquisition. I traded my Corsair II for a K2. Going
> through it and finding small issues that need to be addressed.
> Besides just needing a thorough alignment, have noticed that on 40
> meters at 7184.00, the audio is extremely distorted but not on any other
> part of that band. I have the owners manual, nothing in trouble shooting
> about distortion.
> Ser. #3631.  K2 IOC 1.07.  K2 MCU 203.   KSB2 1.07
> 
> Every 5 minutes I also here a noise like a quick cyclic pulsing for
> about 5 seconds and it goes away.
> 
>  Does anyone know of a  regimen of procedures I could start to
> troubleshoot and check these issues?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Mike
> Kj4pom
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[kevinr]

Good Evening,

   The sun came out about an hour ago, it may hit 60 degrees by 
sunset.  Spring is slowly bringing the forest to life.  The hummingbirds 
need their first refill of the season.  The cool weather has me baking 
bread struggling to get the dough to rise. The stores have been out of 
yeast for the last few months so I've gone over to sour dough.  Now I'm 
eating a lot of bread of improving quality.  My skills were rusty.


  The sun has remained as quiet as it has been for the last two years.  
Any sunspots have been small and short lived.  But there is some local 
magnetic activity with a weakening area in the south Atlantic.  The 
poles may flip in the near future.  Since this occurs regularly every 
500,000 years the timing is rather open ended.  I do know the magnetic 
north pole has been moving quickly the last few years.  Enough so that 
aeronautic maps have been readjusted sooner than normal.  Wonder how a 
pole flip will effect HF propagation?


Please join us on (or near):

14050 kHz at 2200z Sunday (3 PM PDT Sunday)
  7047 kHz at z Monday (5 PM PDT Sunday)

   73,
  Kevin. KD5ONS


_



//

Probability factor of 1 to 1 achieved. We have normality.

Anything you still cannot deal with is therefore your own problem.

   HHGTTG

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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Jim Brown]

On 5/23/2020 5:01 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:

Sadly, it seems like most consumer-grade audio equipment is optimized more
for cost than for design quality and RFI suppression, even equipment that's
supposed to be "high-end."  And then sometimes you can buy a piece of cheap
gear and it rejects RF better than high-end stuff.  Kind of a crap shoot.


For more than 30 years, virtually ALL electronics has been built with 
Pin One Problems. This has as much to do with stupid as it does with 
cheap. When Neil Muncy, ex-W3WJE, now SK, first exposed it in 1994, 
virtually all Pro equipment had Pin One Problems. Every ham rig I 
studied the last time I was in Dayton and last year in Visalia had Pin 
One Problems, including Elecraft.


THAT'S the major reason we need ferrite chokes on all the "receiving 
antennas."  It's also a major mechanism coupling for RF noise OUT of the 
box. The Pin One Problem occurs with the AC "Green Wire" (Equipment 
Ground) and with antenna jacks in home entertainment systems AND in CATV 
and DSL systems. They all put noise on the coax shield and the Green Wire.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] K2 distorted audio on certain freq.

[Mike Duke]

 I have a new acquisition. I traded my Corsair II for a K2. Going
through it and finding small issues that need to be addressed.
 Besides just needing a thorough alignment, have noticed that on 40
meters at 7184.00, the audio is extremely distorted but not on any other
part of that band. I have the owners manual, nothing in trouble shooting
about distortion.
 Ser. #3631.  K2 IOC 1.07.  K2 MCU 203.   KSB2 1.07

 Every 5 minutes I also here a noise like a quick cyclic pulsing for
about 5 seconds and it goes away.

  Does anyone know of a  regimen of procedures I could start to
troubleshoot and check these issues?

 Thank you

Mike
Kj4pom
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 193, Issue 39

[just.one.hill]

Finally got it on screen.  Were you on bicycle?

fd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 11:50 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 193, Issue 39

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than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Keyer goes berserk (j...@kk9a.com)
   2. Re: Recommended Power for K3/100 for 100% Data Modes (Randy Lake)
   3. K4 NR & NB (Drew AF2Z)
   4. Re: Keyer goes berserk (Madison Jones)
   5. Re: Keyer goes berserk (Nr4c)
   6. Re: Reset Third-Hand KX3 (Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT)
   7. Re: K4 NR & NB (Wayne Burdick)
   8. Re: Reset Third-Hand KX3 (Walter Underwood)
   9. Re: Recommended Power for K3/100 for 100% Data Modes (Brian Hunt)
  10. Re: Keyer goes berserk (Madison Jones)
  11. Re: KX3 SPL N/A Message (Jwahar Bammi)
  12. Re: Keyer goes berserk (Nr4c)
  13. FS: K3, K3s and P3 (benny aumala)
  14. KPA-1500 power supply fan noise (Peter Dougherty)
  15. Re: KPA-1500 power supply fan noise (NW0M)
  16. Re: KPA-1500 power supply fan noise (Larry (K8UT))
  17. Re: KPA-1500 power supply fan noise
  (Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft)
  18. ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation
  transformers? (Nicklas Johnson)
  19. Re: ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation
  transformers? (Dave Cole)
  20. Re: ferrites for subwoofer: before or after   isolation
  transformers? (Peter Dougherty)
  21. Re: ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation
  transformers? (Nicklas Johnson)
  22. Re: KPA-1500 power supply fan noise (Dr. William J. Schmidt)
  23. Re: ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation
  transformers? (Walter Underwood)


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 20:29:45 -0400
From: 
To: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Keyer goes berserk
Message-ID: <000201d63099$4297c320$c7c74960$@com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"

It is sounding like he plugged the key directly in and it still did not
work. Maybe there is a K3 setting incorrect like the mode or it is set to TX
split on the wrong mode. Does the K3 side tone make any sound?  I am curious
if RTTY sends with the key plugged in?

KK9A

Don Wilhelm W3FPR wrote:
Madison,

Eliminate everything except the K3 and your paddles.

Plug the paddles into the paddle jack on the K3 - does the K3 make CW?
Then plug the paddles (assuming you do not have a straight key) into the 
KEY jack.  Do you have a 'straight key' on one side of the paddles?.
If both those conditions are OK, then the K3 is OK.
Look to a problem with MORTTY or your computer application.

Once you have identified the source of the problem, then you can address 
it with the appropriate forum for that particular piece of the puzzle.
If it is the K3 that is misbehaving, then email support at elecraft.com for 
assistance.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/22/2020 6:25 PM, Madison Jones wrote:
> Thanks to everyone. The entire configuration which I described has worked
> just fine ever since I acquired MORTTY last fall. I have used it in this
> configuration for thousands of contacts - paddle [and usb from computer ]
> into MORTTY and then into K3. The last time it all worked was for the 19z
> CWT on Wednesday. However, when I was setting up for the 03z CWT without
> making any changes from 19z except to change contests on N1MM+, when I set
> and saved the configuration, it first acted as a straight key [which is to
> say, either paddle simply gave a steady dah until I released it]. I then
> rebooted N1MM+, hit F3 [tu], and at that point the K3 gave some dits and
> dahs, and then would not do anything.
> 
> When I took everything apart, I suspected the MORTTY, but putting the
> paddle directly into either paddle or key port on K3 produced nothing at
> all - would not key K3 no way no how. Tried the MORTTY on my K/W 480, and
> it worked fine. Key into 480 works fine in either the paddle or key port.
I
> can only conclude that since the MORTTY works fine, the cables work fine,
> and the paddle works fine, that leaves only the K3 which does not work
fine.
> 
> Today I rebooted the K3 and computer several times in various
> configurations - N1MM, paddle with MORTTY, paddle direct to key port and
> then to paddle port. The first time I did it I noticed that both red and
> green lights on MORTTY lit up the first time I hit Enter on N1MM after
> configuring it, but no response that I remember from K3. I thought ESM

Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[Dave]

Thanks Eric. I have s/n 423 and will email support.

Dave wo2x

Sent from my iPad

> On May 23, 2020, at 9:07 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
> 
> I believe he is talking about PS fans, which is not on the menu.  However,
> there is a mod kit from Elecraft that includes the resistor.  It is very
> easy to install.  No soldering is required, and the most time-consuming
> part of the install is removing the cover.  Contact Elecraft support and
> they will send it to you, if they are in stock during the shutdown.  It
> helped my KPA1500 SN 4XX.
> 
> 73 Eric WD6DBM
> 
>> On Sat, May 23, 2020, 11:22 AM Jim Brown  wrote:
>> 
>>> On 5/23/2020 7:33 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>>> Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if
>>> the amp is in standby mode?
>> 
>> You did read the manual, right? Fan speed is on the menu.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[Eric Norris]

I believe he is talking about PS fans, which is not on the menu.  However,
there is a mod kit from Elecraft that includes the resistor.  It is very
easy to install.  No soldering is required, and the most time-consuming
part of the install is removing the cover.  Contact Elecraft support and
they will send it to you, if they are in stock during the shutdown.  It
helped my KPA1500 SN 4XX.

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Sat, May 23, 2020, 11:22 AM Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 5/23/2020 7:33 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
> > Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if
> > the amp is in standby mode?
>
> You did read the manual, right? Fan speed is on the menu.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Nicklas Johnson]

I certainly agree.  And of course there's no "one size fits all" for RFI
problems.  I think it's somewhat likely I have multiple problems going on
here too; I noticed, for example, that even when it's completely
disconnected from all its audio inputs, I can still hear a little racket on
the sub; it may need a hefty ferrite on the power cord, or I suppose it's
always possible it's picking up 20m from the speaker coil, then rectifying
that.  I won't know until I get some appropriate ferrites delivered to test
out (mid-week).

Sadly, it seems like most consumer-grade audio equipment is optimized more
for cost than for design quality and RFI suppression, even equipment that's
supposed to be "high-end."  And then sometimes you can buy a piece of cheap
gear and it rejects RF better than high-end stuff.  Kind of a crap shoot.

I appreciate all the suggestions and pointers.  In the absolute worst case,
I can always play on another band when my better half wants to watch a
movie or play a game, too.

   Nick


On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 16:39, Dave Cole  wrote:

> All of Jim's material is like gold for RFI suppression.
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>
> On 5/23/20 2:02 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> > Thanks, Dave.  A very good point about the amp picking up stray RF off
> > the cable and returning it as audio; I'll be sure to clamp down on both
> > ends.
> >
> > It's definitely not a new problem, and I've used Jim's recommendations
> > to much success in the past.  In fact, I referenced it again today
> > because I couldn't remember which mix of Fair-Rite was the right one.
> >
> > Nick
> >
> > On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:58, Dave Cole  > > wrote:
> >
> > I would put the ferrite material as close to the speaker as possible,
> > and as close as possible to the amp...
> >
> > It is important you also protect the amp from stray RF.  If the
> speaker
> > cable is picking up RF, and feeding it back into the audio amp output
> > stage, you can get rectification within that stage in the amp, thus
> > feeding actual audio, (not RF), back down the speaker cable into the
> > speaker(s), and then you start hearing things on the speaker(s).
> >
> > I had a ham friend living 700 or 800 feet from me-- when he lit off
> his
> > KW, I would hear SSB in the speakers, even with the amp off, and
> > unplugged.  This was happening via the method above.
> >
> > See Jim's paper on quieting things down:
> >
> > http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf
> >
> > 73, and thanks,
> > Dave (NK7Z)
> > https://www.nk7z.net
> > ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> > ARRL Technical Specialist
> > ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
> >
> > On 5/23/20 10:19 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> >  > I've got a set of these on the way, as well as a handful of their
> > next two
> >  > smaller siblings, just because I like to have a variety in my
> > desk for
> >  > various applications:
> >  >
> https://www.fair-rite.com/product/round-cable-snap-its-2631181381/
> >  >
> >  > Given the arrangement at the subwoofer of
> wall-connection-->isolation
> >  > transformers-->subwoofer, would you put the ferrite right before
> the
> >  > subwoofer then?
> >  >
> >  > I didn't think about adding one at the amp; though I haven't had
> > problems
> >  > with any common mode noise getting into the amp from the other
> > speakers in
> >  > the room, I can't be sure about the LFE coaxial cable, so that
> > wouldn't
> >  > hurt.
> >  >
> >  > Nick
> >  >
> >  >
> >  > On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:08, Dave Cole  > > wrote:
> >  >
> >  >> Grab some FT-240/31 ferrites from Fair-Rite, (these are the large
> >  >> rings), and put seven or eight turns of speaker cable through
> each,
> >  >> tight wound.  Add one at the speaker, and one at the amp.
> >  >>
> >  >> 73, and thanks,
> >  >> Dave (NK7Z)
> >  >> https://www.nk7z.net
> >  >> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> >  >> ARRL Technical Specialist
> >  >> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
> >  >>
> >  >> On 5/23/20 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> >  >>> The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my
> > home
> >  >>> theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so
> > required
> >  >>> running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house
> and
> >  >> plugging
> >  >>> the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver;
> > this in turn
> >  >>> resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in
> > potential
> >  >>> between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
> >  >>> low-frequency 

Re: [Elecraft] New home for K3, new photos added.

[Dave Cole]

This was my first time using Panduit for a ham radio project.  I have 
used it before prior to retirement, but it sure does neaten things up.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 5/23/20 3:15 PM, Tim McDonough N9PUZ wrote:
Very nice Dave!  I especially like the cable raceway to keep the power 
leads and coax neat.


Tim N9PUZ

On 5/22/2020 7:10 PM, Dave Cole wrote:

To the new home for my K3 project...

https://www.nk7z.net/rf-patch-panel/

See last 4 at the bottom.


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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Dave Cole]

All of Jim's material is like gold for RFI suppression.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 5/23/20 2:02 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
Thanks, Dave.  A very good point about the amp picking up stray RF off 
the cable and returning it as audio; I'll be sure to clamp down on both 
ends.


It's definitely not a new problem, and I've used Jim's recommendations 
to much success in the past.  In fact, I referenced it again today 
because I couldn't remember which mix of Fair-Rite was the right one.


    Nick

On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:58, Dave Cole > wrote:


I would put the ferrite material as close to the speaker as possible,
and as close as possible to the amp...

It is important you also protect the amp from stray RF.  If the speaker
cable is picking up RF, and feeding it back into the audio amp output
stage, you can get rectification within that stage in the amp, thus
feeding actual audio, (not RF), back down the speaker cable into the
speaker(s), and then you start hearing things on the speaker(s).

I had a ham friend living 700 or 800 feet from me-- when he lit off his
KW, I would hear SSB in the speakers, even with the amp off, and
unplugged.  This was happening via the method above.

See Jim's paper on quieting things down:

http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 5/23/20 10:19 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
 > I've got a set of these on the way, as well as a handful of their
next two
 > smaller siblings, just because I like to have a variety in my
desk for
 > various applications:
 > https://www.fair-rite.com/product/round-cable-snap-its-2631181381/
 >
 > Given the arrangement at the subwoofer of wall-connection-->isolation
 > transformers-->subwoofer, would you put the ferrite right before the
 > subwoofer then?
 >
 > I didn't think about adding one at the amp; though I haven't had
problems
 > with any common mode noise getting into the amp from the other
speakers in
 > the room, I can't be sure about the LFE coaxial cable, so that
wouldn't
 > hurt.
 >
 >     Nick
 >
 >
 > On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:08, Dave Cole mailto:d...@nk7z.net>> wrote:
 >
 >> Grab some FT-240/31 ferrites from Fair-Rite, (these are the large
 >> rings), and put seven or eight turns of speaker cable through each,
 >> tight wound.  Add one at the speaker, and one at the amp.
 >>
 >> 73, and thanks,
 >> Dave (NK7Z)
 >> https://www.nk7z.net
 >> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
 >> ARRL Technical Specialist
 >> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
 >>
 >> On 5/23/20 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
 >>> The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my
home
 >>> theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so
required
 >>> running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and
 >> plugging
 >>> the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver;
this in turn
 >>> resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in
potential
 >>> between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
 >>> low-frequency audio isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is
of a type
 >>> that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but
also on the
 >>> left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires
along with
 >> the
 >>> coaxial cable.
 >>>
 >>> Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which
isn't
 >>> terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
 >>> electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial
ferrite
 >>> clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get
through
 >>> them.
 >>>
 >>> My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on
will be
 >>> immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the
speaker
 >>> side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the
opinions of
 >>> folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if
there's any
 >> reason
 >>> the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.
 >>>
 >>> Thoughts?
 >>>
 >>>      Nick
 >>>
 >> __
 >> Elecraft mailing list
 >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
 >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
 >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

 >>
 >> This 

Re: [Elecraft] New home for K3, new photos added.

[Tim McDonough N9PUZ]

Very nice Dave!  I especially like the cable raceway to keep the power 
leads and coax neat.


Tim N9PUZ

On 5/22/2020 7:10 PM, Dave Cole wrote:

To the new home for my K3 project...

https://www.nk7z.net/rf-patch-panel/

See last 4 at the bottom.


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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Nicklas Johnson]

Thanks, Dave.  A very good point about the amp picking up stray RF off the
cable and returning it as audio; I'll be sure to clamp down on both ends.

It's definitely not a new problem, and I've used Jim's recommendations to
much success in the past.  In fact, I referenced it again today because I
couldn't remember which mix of Fair-Rite was the right one.

   Nick

On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:58, Dave Cole  wrote:

> I would put the ferrite material as close to the speaker as possible,
> and as close as possible to the amp...
>
> It is important you also protect the amp from stray RF.  If the speaker
> cable is picking up RF, and feeding it back into the audio amp output
> stage, you can get rectification within that stage in the amp, thus
> feeding actual audio, (not RF), back down the speaker cable into the
> speaker(s), and then you start hearing things on the speaker(s).
>
> I had a ham friend living 700 or 800 feet from me-- when he lit off his
> KW, I would hear SSB in the speakers, even with the amp off, and
> unplugged.  This was happening via the method above.
>
> See Jim's paper on quieting things down:
>
> http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>
> On 5/23/20 10:19 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> > I've got a set of these on the way, as well as a handful of their next
> two
> > smaller siblings, just because I like to have a variety in my desk for
> > various applications:
> > https://www.fair-rite.com/product/round-cable-snap-its-2631181381/
> >
> > Given the arrangement at the subwoofer of wall-connection-->isolation
> > transformers-->subwoofer, would you put the ferrite right before the
> > subwoofer then?
> >
> > I didn't think about adding one at the amp; though I haven't had problems
> > with any common mode noise getting into the amp from the other speakers
> in
> > the room, I can't be sure about the LFE coaxial cable, so that wouldn't
> > hurt.
> >
> > Nick
> >
> >
> > On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:08, Dave Cole  wrote:
> >
> >> Grab some FT-240/31 ferrites from Fair-Rite, (these are the large
> >> rings), and put seven or eight turns of speaker cable through each,
> >> tight wound.  Add one at the speaker, and one at the amp.
> >>
> >> 73, and thanks,
> >> Dave (NK7Z)
> >> https://www.nk7z.net
> >> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> >> ARRL Technical Specialist
> >> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
> >>
> >> On 5/23/20 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> >>> The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home
> >>> theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required
> >>> running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and
> >> plugging
> >>> the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in
> turn
> >>> resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential
> >>> between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
> >>> low-frequency audio isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type
> >>> that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on
> the
> >>> left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with
> >> the
> >>> coaxial cable.
> >>>
> >>> Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
> >>> terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
> >>> electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite
> >>> clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
> >>> them.
> >>>
> >>> My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
> >>> immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker
> >>> side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of
> >>> folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any
> >> reason
> >>> the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.
> >>>
> >>> Thoughts?
> >>>
> >>>  Nick
> >>>
> >> __
> >> Elecraft mailing list
> >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >>
> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >> Message delivered to n...@n6ol.us
> >>
> >
> >
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> Message delivered to n...@n6ol.us
>


-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have 

Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[Jim Brown]

Sorry, I missed that you were concerned with the PSU. I've never heard 
them because the fan(s) on the RF deck are so loud. :)


73, Jim

On 5/23/2020 1:22 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

Nothing in my manual (Revision B1, February 12, 2019).



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[rocketnj]

Hi Eric,

My 1500 is s/n 423. I do think the power supply fans are a bit loud in standby. 
Is my amp prior to the resistor change?
I have added the load resistor in the field and done the sample out mod for 
adaptive predistortion in the field also.

73
Dave wo2x



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 11:53 AM
To: Larry (K8UT) 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

Hi Peter,

If the amp is on, there needs to be at least some PS fan activity at a low 
speed to cool the PS in idle. 

What s/n is your 1500? On later s/ns we changed a resistor in the ps fan 
circuit to slow them down a bit more. 

An alternative is to swap your ant 1 and 2 connections, putting the 6m ant on 
ANT 1. Then you can listen to 6m with the amp off. 

73,
Eric
elecraft.com
---
Sent from my iPhone 6S

> On May 23, 2020, at 8:10 AM, Larry (K8UT)  wrote:
> 
> Peter
> 
> I built a slightly longer cable to match the length of the control cable that 
> came with the amplifier (about 3 feet longer if I recall correctly).
> 
> This allows the PS to operate "remote" in a closet with the door closed.
> 
> -larry (K8UT)
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Peter Dougherty" 
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: 2020-05-23 10:33:19 AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise
> 
>> Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the 
>> PSU if the amp is in standby mode?
>> 
>> I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season.
>> The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which 
>> requires the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid 
>> pops up, but I do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm 
>> working. My XYL is working from home, and is in the same room for 
>> about 9 or 10 hours a day, and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for 
>> her. Any suggestions?
>> 
>> Please-n-thanks.
>> 
>> -
>> 73 and Good DX
>> Peter, W2IRT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> President, North Jersey DX Association
>> 
>> DXCC Card Checker
>> Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __
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>> k...@charter.net
> 
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> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> eric.swa...@elecraft.com
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delivered to rocke...@gmail.com 

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[Peter Dougherty]

Giving her anything hot pink will be met with words not fit for family 
newsgroups, and possibly the forced removal of a part or parts that’s very near 
and dear to me. Besides, the racket bugs the heck out of me, too. 

And I won’t even get into the amp noise when I’m running FT8 on 6, but that’s 
to be expected, alas.

 

- pjd

 

From: Morgan Bailey  
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 2:11 PM
To: Peter Dougherty 
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

 

Head to walmart and buy a box of cheap hot pink foam ear plugs that have 30 db 
noise reduction. Or have her wear earbuds to a new ipod listen to music...sign 
her up for pandora.

 

LOL

 

Vy 73,

Morgan NJ8M

 

On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 9:35 AM Peter Dougherty mailto:li...@w2irt.net> > wrote:

Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if
the amp is in standby mode?

I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season.
The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which requires
the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid pops up, but I
do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm working. My XYL is
working from home, and is in the same room for about 9 or 10 hours a day,
and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions? 

Please-n-thanks.

-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT



President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[Peter Dougherty]

Giving her anything hot pink will be met with words not fit for family 
newsgroups, and possibly the forced removal of a part or parts that’s very near 
and dear to me. Besides, the racket bugs the heck out of me, too. 

And I won’t even get into the amp noise when I’m running FT8 on 6, but that’s 
to be expected, alas.

 

- pjd

 

From: Morgan Bailey  
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 2:11 PM
To: Peter Dougherty 
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

 

Head to walmart and buy a box of cheap hot pink foam ear plugs that have 30 db 
noise reduction. Or have her wear earbuds to a new ipod listen to music...sign 
her up for pandora.

 

LOL

 

Vy 73,

Morgan NJ8M

 

On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 9:35 AM Peter Dougherty mailto:li...@w2irt.net> > wrote:

Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if
the amp is in standby mode?

I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season.
The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which requires
the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid pops up, but I
do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm working. My XYL is
working from home, and is in the same room for about 9 or 10 hours a day,
and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions? 

Please-n-thanks.

-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT



President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau



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[Elecraft] KX3 - Missing ATU DATA Menu Item

[krug261--- via Elecraft]

The KX3 has two antenna memory sets: Set 1 (presumably for Home) and Set 2 (for 
somewhere else). These are selected by menu item ATU DATA. That feature was 
added in MCU 2.76 / DSP 1.50, 4-27-2017. I took my KX3 (#9842; up-to-date 
through MCU 2.90 / DSP 1.52, 12-10-2017) remote and changed to Set 2, as I have 
done several times. When finished with the session, I switched back to Set 1 
and powered down the unit. When I got home I decided to double check that Set 1 
was activated. Instead, the ATU Data menu item is no longer there. Instead, 
where it should have been there is now a N/A and recurring intermittent beep. 
The KX3 ATU appears to be functioning properly. It is connected to the KXPA100 
with its own ATU, but I tuned the KX3 ATU with the KXPA100 in Bypass. All seems 
well except for the missing menu item. So, what is the easiest/safest means of 
bringing the menu item back? 
1) Download my last configuration file?
2) Hit the "Send All Firmware to KX3" button in the KX3 Utility?
3) Other?
73 and thanks,
Bob, KA2TQV
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 NR & NB

[Brian Hunt]

Will the NR "mixed mode" (NRmF5-x and above) where some of the 
unprocessed signal is mixed with the processed signal be available on 
the K4 as it is on the K3?  I've discovered that feature coupled with 
the APF is an excellent way of copying near-the-noise CW signals.


Thanks & 73,
Brian, K0DTJ

On 5/22/2020 20:08, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Hi Drew,

The K4 has one linear control range of 0-15 for both NR and NB, making
adjustment far simpler. There's virtually no delay in setting up NR.

73,
Wayne
N6KR






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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Jim Brown]

On 5/23/2020 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:

The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home
theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required
running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and plugging
the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn
resulted in ground-loop hum 


NOT "ground loop hum"  but "buzz," which is triplen harmonics of 60 Hz 
-- 180 Hz, 360, 540, etc..

(because of a tiny difference in potential

Yes, but it's a difference in potential of the green wires.

The solution -- run AC for the subwoofer from same outlet that powers 
the receiver.



between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
low-frequency audio isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type
that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the
left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with the
coaxial cable.

Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
electronics. 


Consumer electronics is notorious for this problem.

I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite

clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
them.


What three connections are we talking about here? Is it speaker cable or 
unbalanced audio coax? If speaker cable, replace with twisted pair, 
which can be built from two colors of ordinary THHN house wire. Spool 
out lengths of the two colors, put one end in a vise (or equivalent), 
the other end in a drill, and slowly twist a lot. When you've twisted 
more that you think is needed, lay the drill down overnight to let the 
cable develop some memory. When you do remove it from the drill, it will 
untwist some. That's why it's best to twist it a lot.


Chokes as Dave recommended should be applied individually to each audio 
cable and the AC cables for both the receiver and the sub-woofer.


My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker
side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of
folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any reason
the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.


If you have run AC as I've recommended, the transformers are probably 
not needed.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[Jim Brown]

On 5/23/2020 7:33 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if
the amp is in standby mode?


You did read the manual, right? Fan speed is on the menu.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[Morgan Bailey]

Head to walmart and buy a box of cheap hot pink foam ear plugs that have 30
db noise reduction. Or have her wear earbuds to a new ipod listen to
music...sign her up for pandora.

LOL

Vy 73,
Morgan NJ8M

On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 9:35 AM Peter Dougherty  wrote:

> Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if
> the amp is in standby mode?
>
> I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season.
> The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which
> requires
> the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid pops up, but I
> do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm working. My XYL is
> working from home, and is in the same room for about 9 or 10 hours a day,
> and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions?
>
> Please-n-thanks.
>
> -
> 73 and Good DX
> Peter, W2IRT
>
>
>
> President, North Jersey DX Association
>
> DXCC Card Checker
> Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Dave Cole]

I would put the ferrite material as close to the speaker as possible, 
and as close as possible to the amp...


It is important you also protect the amp from stray RF.  If the speaker 
cable is picking up RF, and feeding it back into the audio amp output 
stage, you can get rectification within that stage in the amp, thus 
feeding actual audio, (not RF), back down the speaker cable into the 
speaker(s), and then you start hearing things on the speaker(s).


I had a ham friend living 700 or 800 feet from me-- when he lit off his 
KW, I would hear SSB in the speakers, even with the amp off, and 
unplugged.  This was happening via the method above.


See Jim's paper on quieting things down:

http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 5/23/20 10:19 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:

I've got a set of these on the way, as well as a handful of their next two
smaller siblings, just because I like to have a variety in my desk for
various applications:
https://www.fair-rite.com/product/round-cable-snap-its-2631181381/

Given the arrangement at the subwoofer of wall-connection-->isolation
transformers-->subwoofer, would you put the ferrite right before the
subwoofer then?

I didn't think about adding one at the amp; though I haven't had problems
with any common mode noise getting into the amp from the other speakers in
the room, I can't be sure about the LFE coaxial cable, so that wouldn't
hurt.

Nick


On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:08, Dave Cole  wrote:


Grab some FT-240/31 ferrites from Fair-Rite, (these are the large
rings), and put seven or eight turns of speaker cable through each,
tight wound.  Add one at the speaker, and one at the amp.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 5/23/20 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:

The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home
theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required
running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and

plugging

the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn
resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential
between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
low-frequency audio isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type
that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the
left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with

the

coaxial cable.

Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite
clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
them.

My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker
side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of
folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any

reason

the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.

Thoughts?

 Nick


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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Walter Underwood]

I know you already ran the cables, but twisted pair would probably help.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On May 23, 2020, at 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:
> 
> The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home
> theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required
> running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and plugging
> the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn
> resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential
> between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
> low-frequency audio isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type
> that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the
> left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with the
> coaxial cable.
> 
> Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
> terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
> electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite
> clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
> them.
> 
> My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
> immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker
> side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of
> folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any reason
> the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
>   Nick
> 
> -- 
> *N6OL*
> Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
> real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
> worth supporting.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
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> Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org 

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[Dr. William J. Schmidt]

I have a little bit different question.  I've been stuck on J6 since Feb 20 and 
not much to do here but play radio.  The K3 and KPA1500 are on 24/7 in  a dusty 
humid atmosphere (but made over 86,000 QSOs so far since Feb 20).  I can 
imagine a time in the NEAR FUTURE where the fans will need to be replaced due 
to use.  Is there any recognition of this with a "replacement fan kit" when 
it's time...?


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ 

Moderator – North American QRO Group at Groups.IO.

email:  b...@wjschmidt.com



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - 
Elecraft
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 10:53 AM
To: Larry (K8UT) 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

Hi Peter,

If the amp is on, there needs to be at least some PS fan activity at a low 
speed to cool the PS in idle. 

What s/n is your 1500? On later s/ns we changed a resistor in the ps fan 
circuit to slow them down a bit more. 

An alternative is to swap your ant 1 and 2 connections, putting the 6m ant on 
ANT 1. Then you can listen to 6m with the amp off. 

73,
Eric
elecraft.com
---
Sent from my iPhone 6S

> On May 23, 2020, at 8:10 AM, Larry (K8UT)  wrote:
> 
> Peter
> 
> I built a slightly longer cable to match the length of the control cable that 
> came with the amplifier (about 3 feet longer if I recall correctly).
> 
> This allows the PS to operate "remote" in a closet with the door closed.
> 
> -larry (K8UT)
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Peter Dougherty" 
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: 2020-05-23 10:33:19 AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise
> 
>> Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the 
>> PSU if the amp is in standby mode?
>> 
>> I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season.
>> The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which 
>> requires the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid 
>> pops up, but I do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm 
>> working. My XYL is working from home, and is in the same room for 
>> about 9 or 10 hours a day, and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for 
>> her. Any suggestions?
>> 
>> Please-n-thanks.
>> 
>> -
>> 73 and Good DX
>> Peter, W2IRT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> President, North Jersey DX Association
>> 
>> DXCC Card Checker
>> Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> 
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this 
>> email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
>> k...@charter.net
> 
> __
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> eric.swa...@elecraft.com
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delivered to b...@wjschmidt.com 


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Nicklas Johnson]

I've got a set of these on the way, as well as a handful of their next two
smaller siblings, just because I like to have a variety in my desk for
various applications:
https://www.fair-rite.com/product/round-cable-snap-its-2631181381/

Given the arrangement at the subwoofer of wall-connection-->isolation
transformers-->subwoofer, would you put the ferrite right before the
subwoofer then?

I didn't think about adding one at the amp; though I haven't had problems
with any common mode noise getting into the amp from the other speakers in
the room, I can't be sure about the LFE coaxial cable, so that wouldn't
hurt.

   Nick


On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:08, Dave Cole  wrote:

> Grab some FT-240/31 ferrites from Fair-Rite, (these are the large
> rings), and put seven or eight turns of speaker cable through each,
> tight wound.  Add one at the speaker, and one at the amp.
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>
> On 5/23/20 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> > The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home
> > theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required
> > running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and
> plugging
> > the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn
> > resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential
> > between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
> > low-frequency audio isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type
> > that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the
> > left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with
> the
> > coaxial cable.
> >
> > Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
> > terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
> > electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite
> > clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
> > them.
> >
> > My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
> > immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker
> > side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of
> > folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any
> reason
> > the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> > Nick
> >
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-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Peter Dougherty]

I'm experiencing something similar. I have my sub-2 output connected to bass
shakers on my sofa, and the wiring picks up an incredible amount of RF on
20. As my wife found out when she was taking a nap in the room while I was
contesting. As soon as I switched to 20 she was getting rumbled to the
pattern of CQ TEST. That was an interesting conversation, and something I
will look at this summer.

As for your low frequencies getting into your left and right main, why not
switch them to "small" in the AVR menu, and let the sub do all the work
below 80 Hz?

I have had some luck putting ferrites just before the speaker terminals in
the past. I sadly cut all my speaker cable to length so there's no room to
wind around a core, so these will need to be clamp-ons for me. I get into my
center and surrounds on 40 and 20.

Or I can tell my XYL to nap in the living room, since there's just the two
of us in the house.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Nicklas Johnson
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 12:38 PM
To: elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation
transformers?

The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home theater
subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required running two
speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and plugging the subwoofer
into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn resulted in
ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential between the two
outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1 low-frequency audio
isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type that produces a signal
based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the left and right speaker
channels, thus the two speaker wires along with the coaxial cable.

Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite
clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
them.

My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker side
of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of folks who
have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any reason the
ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.

Thoughts?

   Nick

--
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Dave Cole]

Grab some FT-240/31 ferrites from Fair-Rite, (these are the large 
rings), and put seven or eight turns of speaker cable through each, 
tight wound.  Add one at the speaker, and one at the amp.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 5/23/20 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:

The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home
theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required
running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and plugging
the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn
resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential
between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
low-frequency audio isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type
that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the
left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with the
coaxial cable.

Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite
clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
them.

My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker
side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of
folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any reason
the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.

Thoughts?

Nick


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[Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Nicklas Johnson]

The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home
theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required
running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and plugging
the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn
resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential
between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
low-frequency audio isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type
that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the
left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with the
coaxial cable.

Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite
clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
them.

My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker
side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of
folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any reason
the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.

Thoughts?

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft]

Hi Peter,

If the amp is on, there needs to be at least some PS fan activity at a low 
speed to cool the PS in idle. 

What s/n is your 1500? On later s/ns we changed a resistor in the ps fan 
circuit to slow them down a bit more. 

An alternative is to swap your ant 1 and 2 connections, putting the 6m ant on 
ANT 1. Then you can listen to 6m with the amp off. 

73,
Eric
elecraft.com
---
Sent from my iPhone 6S

> On May 23, 2020, at 8:10 AM, Larry (K8UT)  wrote:
> 
> Peter
> 
> I built a slightly longer cable to match the length of the control cable that 
> came with the amplifier (about 3 feet longer if I recall correctly).
> 
> This allows the PS to operate "remote" in a closet with the door closed.
> 
> -larry (K8UT)
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Peter Dougherty" 
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: 2020-05-23 10:33:19 AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise
> 
>> Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if
>> the amp is in standby mode?
>> 
>> I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season.
>> The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which requires
>> the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid pops up, but I
>> do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm working. My XYL is
>> working from home, and is in the same room for about 9 or 10 hours a day,
>> and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions?
>> 
>> Please-n-thanks.
>> 
>> -
>> 73 and Good DX
>> Peter, W2IRT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> President, North Jersey DX Association
>> 
>> DXCC Card Checker
>> Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[Larry (K8UT)]

Peter

I built a slightly longer cable to match the length of the control cable 
that came with the amplifier (about 3 feet longer if I recall 
correctly).


This allows the PS to operate "remote" in a closet with the door closed.

-larry (K8UT)

-- Original Message --
From: "Peter Dougherty" 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 2020-05-23 10:33:19 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise


Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if
the amp is in standby mode?

I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season.
The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which requires
the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid pops up, but I
do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm working. My XYL is
working from home, and is in the same room for about 9 or 10 hours a day,
and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions?

Please-n-thanks.

-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT



President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[NW0M]

HI Peter,

Put the 6M antenna on Antenna Port 1 for now.

73, Mitch
NWØM



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

[Peter Dougherty]

Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if
the amp is in standby mode?

I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season.
The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which requires
the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid pops up, but I
do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm working. My XYL is
working from home, and is in the same room for about 9 or 10 hours a day,
and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions? 

Please-n-thanks.

-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT



President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau

 

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[Elecraft] FS: K3, K3s and P3

[benny aumala]

Will sell following:

K3 100W    +KAT3 +KSYN3 +K144XV +500Hz filter

1450 Euro

K3s 100W     +2xKSYN3 +KRX3 +200 / 500 / 1800 Hz filter

2450 Euro

P3K

550 Euro

Benny Aumala   OH9NB   +358 400 696 070

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