[Elecraft] W2 Watt Meter firmware load?

2023-11-14 Thread Glenn Maclean
I recently put my K line station together K3S, KAT500, KPA500, P3. They are all 
working great! I have added a brand new  W2 watt meter. It came with version 
1.0 firmware which from what I understand has not changed in many years and is 
the latest version. I was testing my new W2 watt meter and it does not seem to 
go into firmware load mode. I hold both the on button and sensor button while 
powering the W2 on. I do not get the left blinking light as the manual states. 
What am I doing wrong? I would like the firmware load mode to work in the event 
I need to reload firmware. I am able to send commands to the W2 with my 
computer.
Any help would be appreciated. 
Thank you,
Glenn Maclean WA7SPY
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[Elecraft] KPA500 / KAT500 and W2 watt meter question

2023-10-10 Thread Glenn Maclean
I just ordered the KPA500/KAT500 combo and W2 watt meter for my K3S. Should I 
use the key line interrupt connected to the W2 watt meter or should I connect 
the key line interrupt to the KAT500? Do I even need to use key line interrupt 
with the K line set up?
Thanks in advance
Glenn WA7SPY

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[Elecraft] K2100 and KAT100 FS

2008-08-15 Thread Glenn Maclean
I have for sale a bare bones K2 100 S/N 6062 100 watts out on all bands, 
no options and a KAT100 all manuals included. This K2 has been carefully 
aligned and tested and works great!


asking $800.00 for the K2100 and KAT100 or BO

Reason for selling need to pay some bills.

Glenn WA7SPY
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[Elecraft] KPA100 no output above 11 watts

2007-11-03 Thread Glenn Maclean
I just finished putting a KPA100 kit together. All the initial tests 
were satisfactory until I got to the point where it is time to check the 
output of the PA above 11 watts. When I set my K2 above 11 watts I get a 
High Current message with no power out. I set CAL current to 3.5 amps. I 
set the CAL current to 4 amps with the same issue. The K2 works with the 
amp connected at power levels below 11 watts.


Where do I start looking? I have looked around T1 and components per the 
manual. The component values are correct.


Thanks,
Glenn WA7SPY

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Re: [Elecraft] Help with troubleshooting K2 receiver?

2007-04-01 Thread Glenn Maclean
I found my problem. I left C158 out some how. I now have signal and the 
7. birdie.I am able to peak L1 and L2 without the slugs bottomed out 
in the cans.


I do have a concern The highest I can get L30 to adjust to is 5.5 volts 
with the slug in L30 all the way to the bottom of the can. I am using a 
battery with a voltage of 12.5 volts. I am using a Fluke model 87 meter 
to take the voltage readings. I went back through and checked all 
component values and orientations as if I was starting over building the 
receiver section. All component values are correct as well as 
orientation. T5 is wound with 16 counted turns on 1-2 and 4 turns on 
2-4. It looks exactly as the diagram. Here are my VCO voltages:


80m 3500 2.23v  4000 5.5v
40m 7000 1.887v  7300 3.63v
30m 1 3.11v 10150 3.67v
20m 14000 2.607v 15000 4.31v
17m 18000 3.196 18200 3.396v
15m 21000 2.349 21450 3.47
12m 24800 4.26v 25000 4.66v
10m 28000 3.372v 28800 4.22v

Do I have a problem or is this acceptable?

Thanks,
Glenn WA7SPY
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[Elecraft] Help with troubleshooting K2 receiver?

2007-04-01 Thread Glenn Maclean
I have my K2 built to the second alignment step. It passed all the tests 
on the first part of the build on initial power up. My K2 is not hearing 
the 7. birdie. I am not hearing anything on 40 meters from receive 
signals with an outside antenna connected or my broad band generator 
connected to the antenna connector. The PLL linearization worked fine 
with no errors and the end message showed up when it was finished.


I do hear the signal at J15 C6 on the left side as viewed looking down 
from the top of my K2. I get a small signal increase when I inject my 
broadband signal generator to the top of the case of Q21. I get an 
increase in signal on pins 3 and 4 of the K1 relay. No increase on any 
other pins when the 40 meter band is selected. I get a signal increase 
at jumper W5 and W2. I get a small increase at W1. I get a small 
increase on both sides of D6 diode. I get an increase at the case of 
Q22. I have tripled checked component orientation and values, cold 
solder joints.


I am able to get the pre amp and attenuator to work when I inject the 
signal at W5. I am able to get all the freq readings on the BFO and 
filters adjust fine. The cans for L1 and L2 have the big slots no marks. 
I had to adjust them bottomed out and then got a slight signal increase. 
It is almost as if the cans a for L1 and L2 are not the proper value. I 
was only able to get 5.5 volts out of L30 with the slug all the to the 
bottom. All of the VCO voltages came out with in specs. 1.887 volts 
being the lowest on 40 meters at 7. L25 and L26 are wound correctly 
and have good continuity between the pads.


Where should I start looking for a problem ?

Thanks,
Glenn WA7SPY
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[Elecraft] Need Help with K2 build

2007-03-20 Thread Glenn Maclean
I recently purchased a new K2 to replace my older one that I sold a 
while ago. I am to the first power up test stage. Everything checks out 
normal except when I go to measure the 4.0 freq on the control board 
at the left side of C22. I get all 00s. I have checked the freq 
probe for shorts and all is normal. I removed the heat shrink and 
checked the coax to the capacitor and it checks good as well as checking 
good at the solder joints on the back side of of P6. I even tried to 
measure the freq at pin 14 on U6 and get all 0s. I checked X2 for 
shorts to ground and none were found as well as shorts between the 
crystal leads and none were found. I have continuity to pin 14 to C22 on 
U6. The freq probe does work when I touch my finger on the tip.


I am suspecting a bad component Where do I look? Can I continue to the 
next build stage?


Thanks,
Glenn WA7SPY
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[Elecraft] OT Wullenweber Array

2006-11-30 Thread Glenn Maclean

Hi Guys,
A friend of mine told me about this and thought I would share it with 
the group. Point your Google Earth program to these coordinates:


61.264375
-149.851108334

You will be looking at one of the last remaining
Wullenweber Arrays in the world.

"What is a Wullenweber Array" you might ask.  Go here
for the explanation -

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wullenweber

I wish I had room in my back yard for one of these and hook my K2 up to it!

Glenn Maclean WA7SPY

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[Elecraft] Complete K2 station sold

2006-07-03 Thread Glenn Maclean

The K2 station I had for sale has been sold.

Thanks to all who inquired,

Happy 4th of July!
Glenn Maclean WA7SPY
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[Elecraft] FS Complete Elecraft K2 100 watt station reduced price

2006-07-03 Thread Glenn Maclean
I have for sale a K2-100 serial number 323. This is a complete HF 
station ready to go on the air. All you need is a power supply and 
antenna to be on the air! $1,000.00  plus shipping and it is yours. I 
have reduced the price $100 and the KAT-100 automatic antenna tuner is 
included. this is my last post before it goes on E-Bay.


K2 radio (transceiver)

KPA100 (100 watt amp incorporated as the top cover to the K2)

KSB2 (SSB board)

K160RX (160meters)

K60XV (60 meters)

KNB2 (Noise Blanker)

KDSP2 (DSP filter)

Yeasu FT100 tuning knob

KAT100-1 100 watt automatic antenna tuner

Power cords and cables included with all manuals and documentation.

Heil MH2 hand mic

Heil Desk mic and stand

$1,000 firm plus shipping.

All of the approved Elecraft mods have been accomplished to the current 
production K2's as well as the 100 watt amp mods including thermal 
stability and the keying shaping mod. Rev A to Rev B current firmware.


The K2 works perfectly full 100 watts out on all bands and has been 
tested and aligned by Gary at Elecraft.




Glenn Maclean WA7SPY


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[Elecraft] FS K2100 built with extras

2006-06-25 Thread Glenn Maclean
I have for sale a K2100 serial number 323. This is an oldie but a goody 
with the following options and mods.


K2 radio (transceiver)

KPA100 (100 watt amp incorporated as the top cover to the K2)

KSB2 (SSB board)

K160RX (160meters)

K60XV (60 meters)

KNB2 (Noise Blanker)

KDSP2 (DSP filter)

Yeasu FT100 tuning knob

$1,100 firm plus shipping.

All of the approved Elecraft mods have been accomplished to the current 
production K2's as well as the 100 watt amp mods including thermal 
stability and the keying shaping mod.


I am also including the Heil Elecraft MH2 hand mike, and the Elecraft 
Heil desk Mike.


The K2 works perfectly full 100 watts out on all bands and has been 
tested and aligned by Gary at Elecraft.


I will consider throwing in the KAT100-1 100 watt automatic tuner.

Glenn Maclean WA7SPY


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[Elecraft] Resolve to K2 failing first test

2006-01-29 Thread Glenn Maclean
I feel very stupid as an experienced kit builder I made a rookie 
mistake. I could not get the K2 to power up at all. I checked and 
rechecked everything. I ended up taking my old working K2 s/n323 apart 
and started swapping things around. The control board was good in my K2. 
My front panel worked fine on the rf board of the K2 being built. The 
new front panel did not power up my K2. Ha the problem is in the front 
panel board. I started looking around. What do you know U2 is upside 
down. Thank God I have a Hakko 808 desoldering tool! I removed U2 
installed it the correct orientation. The K2 now passed all initial 
tests. Never a dull moment! stupid stupid stupid!


Thanks for your input Don

Glenn Maclean WA7SPY

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Glenn,

While it certainly does sound like your 7805 regulator has gone 'belly up'
(you said it clicked relays at first and then stopped), I would revisit the
resistance readings at the output pin of U5 as a first order of business.
If you still fine >2k resistance on that line, then suspect the regulator -
OTOH, if the resistance is significantly lower, find the short or solder
splash - and remember to examine the soldering on the connectors too - yes,
with a solder splash it could have worked initially and only became shorted
when things were moved a bit.

73,
Don W3FPR

  

-Original Message-

Hi Guys,
I am building a K2 for a friend. I am at the first power test point in
the manual. The K2 has no display and no relays clicking on power up. I
have checked the basics and here is what I have found so far:

I have gone over the front panel board, control board and RF boards with
my optivisor magnifier. All solder connections look good. All the
initial resistance tests on the boards checked out. I am finding the 5
volt regulator on the control board U5 is only putting out 1.2 volts on
the output. The input is reading 13.5 volts. The input on  U4 has 13.5
volts and 8 volts output. Can I unplug the control board and power up
the 5 volt regulator by applying 13 volts to the input to the 5 volt
regulator with the control board un-plugged without hurting anything? I
suspect the 5 volt regulator is defective or something else is dragging
the voltage down. The 5 volt regulator is verified as a L7805 installed.
When the K2 was first powered up the relays started to click and then it
went dead. I am getting power through the resettable fuse and through
the power switch.





  

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[Elecraft] K2 fails first test

2006-01-29 Thread Glenn Maclean

Hi Guys,
I am building a K2 for a friend. I am at the first power test point in 
the manual. The K2 has no display and no relays clicking on power up. I 
have checked the basics and here is what I have found so far:


I have gone over the front panel board, control board and RF boards with 
my optivisor magnifier. All solder connections look good. All the 
initial resistance tests on the boards checked out. I am finding the 5 
volt regulator on the control board U5 is only putting out 1.2 volts on 
the output. The input is reading 13.5 volts. The input on  U4 has 13.5 
volts and 8 volts output. Can I unplug the control board and power up 
the 5 volt regulator by applying 13 volts to the input to the 5 volt 
regulator with the control board un-plugged without hurting anything? I 
suspect the 5 volt regulator is defective or something else is dragging 
the voltage down. The 5 volt regulator is verified as a L7805 installed. 
When the K2 was first powered up the relays started to click and then it 
went dead. I am getting power through the resettable fuse and through 
the power switch.


This is the first time I have had a major problem with an Elecraft kit. 
I have built  most all of the Elecraft products without a hitch.


Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Maclean WA7SPY
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 #01221 Alive but shy of stated power?

2005-08-05 Thread Glenn Maclean

Bill Johnson wrote:


Bill




 


WHAT are the changes to R11 and R30 Everyone is referring to them,
 


but
 


no-one has said what they are!!
 



 


Must be a dark secret, Grif.  Nobody seems to want to tell, apparently
least of all the folks who report having performed the mods!
   




A small difference in power isn't worth consideration vs the importance of a
clean signal.  A change from 4 w to 2 w is only 3 db which is not notable
for audio difference. Thus some of us who have owned for the entire time
haven't paid any long lasting attention.  I have never operated any QRP rig
at it's full power.  The reduced power has a huge advantage in battery life
and has little to no impact on the receiving station's ability to copy.  

Bill 
K9YEQ

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I do not have a KX1 anymore. It is a long story. I was able to dig 
through my old sent email messages. I purchased and built an early 
serial number KX1. I hope this help you.

Glenn Maclean WA7SPY
Sacramento, CA

Here is what Gary at Elecraft had to say. I went by his guide lines. 33 
ohms worked well in my case. Your milage may very. Yes it is OK to 
change R30 do not go any more than 47 ohms. (See below)


Hi All;
Here is the comments from Gary at Elecraft concerning the Low Power 
conidition of the KX-1.


Those output levels are typical and are pretty normal. You will only get
3-4w if 13.8 to 14.0VDC is used, and the load is a good 50 ohm non-reactive
match.

The KX1 is not designed to produce 4-5w (or more) like the K1 can, as it 
has

a much simpler transmitter and is optimized for mainly portable and battery
use.

If all parts are correct, you can safely increase R30 at the base of the PA
transistor Q6, but not more than 33-47 ohms or increased spurious output
will result. 33 ohms would be a good first value to try.


--
73, Gary AB7MY

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[Elecraft] Station grounding question

2005-07-13 Thread Glenn Maclean
I recently up graded my house electrical panel from 100 to 200 amp 
service. In order to do the up grade I had to install a Ufer ground 
which was 20 feet of bare #4 copper wire in cement. Our local code 
allowed a 10 foot run of wire in a U shape in a 9 inch wide trench. The 
wire had to be 3 inches above the dirt 3 inches from the side of the 
dirt 3 inches between the wires and three inches away from the dirt on 
the other side of the trench. That allows for 3 inches of cement all 
around the bare copper wire. The more I found out about Ufer grounds the 
better they seem to be to me. The PH factor in the cement and the fact 
that the cement never completely dries out and retains moisture make it 
an excellent ground.


This leads me to my question. Is anyone out there using a Ufer ground as 
a counterpoise or to ground their tower and station? This seems way 
better than the old ground rod pounded in the dirt. Any comments would 
be appreciated.


Glenn WA7SPY
Sacramento, CA


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[Elecraft] SSB and M-2 microphone

2004-12-28 Thread Glenn Maclean
I want to say the combination of doing the 2.4 Khz cap mod, and
replacing the crystals on the RF board and SSB adapter( my ssb adapter
board was one of the very first ones to come out)and receiving a MD2
microphone for Christmas is a winning combination. Having a Hakko 908
de-soldering tool made replacing the caps and crystals a snap.

I am getting unsolicited compliments on the audio quality since doing
the cap mod. With the QSO's I have been having lately the folks do not
believe I am running a K2/100.

Prior to doing the SSB cap mod I was using a MH2 hand microphone. I was
always getting reports of bassy transmit audio even after replacing the
crystals and using spectrogram to align the ssb filters. I think the MH2
microphone will sound great now as well after doing the cap mod. I need
to do some comparisons with the two microphones to tell for sure,

If you have an older ssb adapter I highly recommend doing the cap mod.

A big thank you to Elecraft and Bob Heil for making the K2 a great SSB
rig!

Happy New year!
Glenn WA7SPY

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[Elecraft] SMD Version of the K6XX Visible LED CW Tuning Indicator

2004-11-02 Thread Glenn Maclean
I received my tuning indicator from Tom Hammond N0SS last week. I put it 
together on Sunday. To my dismay it did not work. I checked and tripled 
checked component placement and wiring. It all looked good. I still could 
not get the tuning indicator to work. Tom and I emailed back and forth. I 
was about ready to send my board to Tom for his evaluation. I got home from 
work tonight and started trouble shooting. I got out my trusty Hakko 808. I 
put the small long tip on it. I cleaned up all the solder off of all the 
components. I then touched up all the solder connections to all of the 
components. I plugged the board back into the K2. What do you know the 10th 
LED now lights up when the tuning is locked on a signal. I can adjust the 
LED to come on and off with the trim pot. If anyone else is having problems 
make sure you have good solder joints! Especially the little legs to the 
very tiny FSK chip which is the heart of the tuning indicator circuit. They 
are hard to see let alone solder. Make sure you have a very small soldering 
tip and you get in and out quickly with the tip so you do not over heat 
components or lift a trace.


Tom did an awesome job with this little project! I hope this may help 
someone else who has or may have problems with this SMD kit.


Thanks,
Glenn Maclean WA7SPY 


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Re: [Elecraft] Tuning indicator problem

2004-11-01 Thread Glenn Maclean

Hi Don,
Shorting pin 5 to 4 turns on the 10th LED. I guess my wiring to the front 
panel board is good.


Glenn WA7SPY
- Original Message - 
From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Glenn Maclean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tuning indicator problem



Glenn,

As a quick check on your wiring for the LED indicator, short pin 5 of the 
output connector to ground (pin 4) and you should see the LED turn on.  A 
short at this point will not damage the IC - because it is an open 
collector output.


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 
From: "Glenn Maclean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 9:40 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Tuning indicator problem



Hi Guys,
I put my tuning indicator kit together this weekend that Tom N0SS was 
selling. Tom you did an outstanding job packaging the kit. I soldered the 
SMD components on the board per the PDF file that Tom provided on his web 
site. My tuning indicator does not work. I have 5 volts on pins 1 and 8 
on the FSK chip. I have tripled cheked all the connections and the 
components on the circuit board. Every thing looks good with my high 
power magnifying glass. I am using 500 hz side tone. When I turn the trim 
pot on the SMD board clockwise or counter clockwis the 10th LED does not 
light up. I have turned it more than 5 turns both directions. I have the 
K2 tuned to the birdie at 4. on the 80 meter band.


Can anyone point me in the right direction for further trouble shooting?
Thanks,
Glenn WA7SPY
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[Elecraft] Tuning indicator problem

2004-11-01 Thread Glenn Maclean

Hi Guys,
I put my tuning indicator kit together this weekend that Tom N0SS was 
selling. Tom you did an outstanding job packaging the kit. I soldered the 
SMD components on the board per the PDF file that Tom provided on his web 
site. My tuning indicator does not work. I have 5 volts on pins 1 and 8 on 
the FSK chip. I have tripled cheked all the connections and the components 
on the circuit board. Every thing looks good with my high power magnifying 
glass. I am using 500 hz side tone. When I turn the trim pot on the SMD 
board clockwise or counter clockwis the 10th LED does not light up. I have 
turned it more than 5 turns both directions. I have the K2 tuned to the 
birdie at 4. on the 80 meter band.


Can anyone point me in the right direction for further trouble shooting?
Thanks,
Glenn WA7SPY 


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[Elecraft] Need help trouble shooting a K1

2004-06-19 Thread Glenn Maclean
Hi guys,
I am helping a friend trouble shoot a K1 that he just finished putting
together. This is a 2 band 40/20 meter K1. The 40 meter band is working
perfect with a full 7 watts output into a 50 ohm dummy load. The power
output can be adjusted up and down while in transmit on 40 meters. The 20
meter band has a problem. It will only put out 3.5 watts and once the power
is set all the way up you can not adjust it back down while in transmit. The
power can be adjusted up and down while in transmit on 40 meters. I have
used an RF probe on the filter board and here are the voltages I am getting:

RF Filter Board voltages using a RF probe 20Mtrs40Mtrs


P1-4 Premix oscillator signal 200-500mVpp   192mV 561mV
P1-6 Premix signal output signal   55mV
800mV

P2-1 TX Buffer output 1-3Vpp  740mV
880mV
P2-8 Filter board TX output to driver 1-3Vpp   624mV1.7V

P3-1 PA output up to 40-55Vpp   14V
19.8V
P3-8 Output from lowpass filter 40-55Vpp 13.59V
18.78V

The voltages are shown as to what should be expected using an O scope which
I do not have. The RF probe readings will be 35% or so less than what an O
scope will show according to Gary. I have verified the toroids and actually
rewound them all and made sure the leads were properly tinned and
reinstalled them. Where do I look for the problem? I am also guessing the
problem is on the Filter board and not the RF board due to the fact the 40
meter portion is working as advertised. The 20 meter crystal  on the filter
board was also replaced due to being suspect. I am guessing a bad capacitor?
Any help would be appreciated.

Glenn WA7SPY


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