Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support

[John Pitz]

Guys, don't let SMT parts intimidate you.  With a little practice it
isn't difficult.  Especially if you know how to make a good solder joint
on a through hole part  The hardest part is getting magnification.
There are some very affordable stereo microscopes available, you will
probably want 20x magnification.  On Amazon I have seen prices in the
$137 range on a quick search.  I was able to convince my eye doctor to
prescribe a pair of low vision aid glasses, not quite 20x, that work
really well for the larger, 0603 and .5mm pitch 100 pin QFPs.  These
things have coke bottle lenses and they put the soldering iron a few
inches from my nose ;)  If you are into making your own circuits you
will find that 0603 parts, as well as SOT23 work well on .1 pitch
protoboard, if you are creative enough.

Other helpful hints: Buy the finest diameter leaded solder you can find,
no need to make your life any more difficult on this scale with lead
free solder.
Buy a flux pen.  Sometimes a little bit of extra flux will help.  

One advantage of SMT parts is they are VERY inexpensive, at least
resistors and capacitors, and you can store an awful lot of them in a
small space.

Other resources are Schmartboards, these are used to adapt SMT ICs to .1
lead pitch perfboard.  Sparkfun and Adafruit are great resources as well
if you want to operate at a slightly higher level of abstraction then
the base hardware level.

If you ENJOY building it yourself, don't let small parts intimidate you.

73,
KD8CIV



On Mon, 2017-01-09 at 18:29 -0600, Kevin wrote:

> I don't either. I read every single post in this thread and I didn't 
> think anybody was trying to start a holy war.
> 
> To the guys who built all your gear from through hole parts...good for 
> ya. Those days are gone. There will be no more rigs like the K2 when the 
> parts are unobtainable. Better get you heads around SMT.
> 
> To all the guys who just want to operate...good for you. You are at 
> distinct disadvantage when it comes to how the radio works. Quality time 
> with ALL the manuals, including the assembly manuals, can help.
> 
> To all the guys who like and do both...I'm one of you. K2/100 #4684 was 
> my main rig for years. I will NEVER sell it.
> 
> 
> On 1/8/2017 5:33 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> > I've been following this thread noting how the focus of many Hams has 
> > changed. I see no "appliance operator vs builder" argument.
> >
> > 73, Ron AC7AC
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
> > Walter Underwood
> > Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 2:43 PM
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Support
> >
> > Please everyone, we don’t need the “appliance operators vs builders” 
> > argument here. Those are flavors of amateur radio, not levels of goodness.
> >
> > I was an appliance operator in 1970, with a BC-348 receiver and an ARC-5 
> > transmitter. My Elmer got those working for me.
> >
> > See you on the æther,
> >
> > wunder
> > K6WRU
> > Walter Underwood
> > CM87wj
> > http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
> >
> >
> > __
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> > Message delivered to ksto...@ac0h.net
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position recommendation needed

[John Pitz]

Actually there is a much simpler way to do this using linear 3 pin
regulators.  Take a fictional regulator that has a fixed output voltage
of 1V.  Assuming you want 15mA through your LEDs, make sure the output
current of the voltage regulator is 15mA by placing a 67 Ohm resistor
from the output pin to ground.  The current out the VOUT of a 3 pin
regulator will be equal to the current at the VIN of the regulator.
Then put your string of LEDs from the "unregulated" voltage in and the
Vin pin of your regulator.  You will have to add up the expected voltage
drops of the LEDs. and subtract that value from the unregulated Voltage
supply.  then subtract the voltage regulators output voltage, in this
case 1V from whats left.  Now, make sure that the remaining voltage is
at least a little bit higher than the dropout voltage of the regulator.
I have done this countless times.  It should be pretty simple to use a
POT and a resistor to dim the LEDs within a preset range, or if your
regulator has a shutdown pin you could PWM it from your favorite
microcontroller.

You should avoid putting LEDs in series when using a simple dropping
resistor.  That scheme will seem to work well for a little while then
you may find your LEDs failing.  In my experience this doesn't work long
term and in this scheme the LEDs fail one by one shorted.  I don't think
the voltage drop on each LED is all that constant over time and
temperature.

73
KD8CIV

On Sat, 2017-01-07 at 02:14 -0800, Dave Fifield wrote:

> An LED is basically a fancy diode, so a linear voltage regulator to control
> its brightness will not work well.
> 
> Starting from around 2V output (say) the LED/s will be OFF. As you increase
> the regulator's output voltage, somewhere around 2.5V (depends on the exact
> type of LED you're using), the LED will begin to conduct forward current and
> start to emit light. At this point, increasing the regulator's output
> voltage just a tiny bit will increase the brightness of the LED a lot (it's
> basically an exponential curve). So at just a couple hundred mV above the
> voltage where the LED began to emit light, you will reach full brightness.
> Any further increase in the drive voltage will merely result in the series
> current-limiting resistor dissipating more heat.
> 
> What is really needed here is a linearly-variable constant-current generator
> circuit. This is a fairly simple circuit to design, usually consisting of a
> voltage reference, a comparator, and a drive transistor, with some feedback
> from a current sensing resistor. It will need to be designed so that it can
> generate enough voltage to overcome the LED's forward voltage (Vf), and with
> an output current that's variable from 0mA to around 20mA (or whatever the
> LED's maximum forward current (If max) is specified at). 
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Cheers es 73,
> Dave
> AD6A
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
> D'Eau Claire
> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2017 8:17 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position
> recommendation needed
> 
> A linear voltage regulator is very quiet. That's just a bipolar transistor
> passing the current with adjustable base voltage. I use them on my HB power
> supplies for the same reason. No square switching, no RFI. 
> 
> 73, Ron AC7AC
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
> Frantz
> Sent: Friday, January 6, 2017 6:07 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dimmable LED desk lamp for operating position
> recommendation needed
> 
> To avoid color shifts with dimming, most LED dimmers use Pulse Width
> Modulation (PWM). PWM has the potential to generate RFI, so be careful. The
> LEDs themselves should be very quiet. Using LEDs with resistors to limit the
> current should also be quiet. A system that switches LEDs for brightness
> control would be a safe solution, but I don't know of any commercial systems
> which do this.
> 
> On the other hand, I have not noticed a problem with the LED dimmers in my
> house, so perhaps most of the problem is in the wall-wart power supply.
> 
> 73 Bill AE6JV
> 
> On 1/6/17 at 3:50 AM, elecraft@mailman.qth.net (Marc Veeneman via Elecraft)
> wrote:
> 
> >I mounted (dual side adhesive tape) an LED strip to the underside of an 
> >equipment shelf.  The strip came with a 12v switcher that I ignored.  I 
> >use my 12 volt supply.  The strip was, I think, 24 inches long and has 
> >a dimmer that can be inserted in the power lead.  No RFI.  Plenty 
> >bright.  Mine came from Amazon but there are many to choose from these 
> >days; you can even select color temperature when you order.
> ---
> Bill Frantz| Truth and love must prevail  | Periwinkle
> (408)356-8506  | over lies and hate.  | 16345 
> Englewood 

Re: [Elecraft] OT: Fixing Slow Internet

[John Pitz]

Don't forget that you will have to send your call sign every 10 minutes,
and at the start and end of your QSO with your router.  


On Sat, 2016-12-10 at 10:13 -0800, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:

> Of course, you can't do anything "commercial" while running higher 
> power, like streaming video.
> 
> If you're using a remote that you pay for, using your QRO WiFi to access 
> it through the internet might be "commercial."
> 
> On 12/10/2016 10:07 AM, Bob Nielsen wrote:
> > Channels 1 through 8 are in a ham band so you could legally run much 
> > higher power than non-licensed devices are allowed.
> >
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and FLDIGI

[John Pitz]

There is also no harm in using IQ.  If you are jumping from digital to
ssb you may not want to be continuously plugging and unplugging any more
cables than necessary.


On Fri, 2016-12-02 at 12:41 -0800, Walter Underwood wrote:

> There is no advantage to using the I/Q output for fldigi. It only cares about 
> one channel,
> so use the regular audio output. 
> 
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
> 
> > On Dec 2, 2016, at 12:25 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> > 
> > On Fri,12/2/2016 12:15 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> >> Fldigi and other similar applications only use the left channel. 
> > 
> > Yes. MMTTY can be set to decode L or R, but only transmits Mono. 2Tone (an 
> > excellent RTTY program) can easily be set to RX and TX on L or R. WSJT-X 
> > can easily select L and R for both TX and RX, but WSJT10 is left channel 
> > only. Development of WSJT has shifted to WSJT-X, with more modulation 
> > schemes added to WSJT-X as time goes by, and it is intended to eventually 
> > replace WSJT10 for all modes. Before you fall in love with any digital mode 
> > software, check out its limitations in this regard.
> > 
> > 73, Jim K9YC
> > 
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and FLDIGI

[John Pitz]

I have been and it seems to work just fine.  I have made contacts using
that setup with PSK31 and have decoded PSK31, RTTY, as well as one other
mode-can't remember which at the moment.  I have also been told rather
emphatically that fldigi would not work with the IQ signal.  My
experience is it works just fine.  The width of the spectrum is quite a
bit less than what I think a full panadaptor would give.



On Fri, 2016-12-02 at 14:43 -0500, Kevin - K4VD wrote:

> When using the KX3 with fldigi can I use the RX I/Q output from the radio
> to the computer? I can't find any reference to i/q in the fldigi docs so
> I'm assuming the answer is no but thought I'd ask before giving up.
> 
> Kev K4VD
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[Elecraft] KX3 audio muting during RS232 communications

[John Pitz]

Hello,

Last night I was trying to use my KX3 with 2M module to decode weather
satellite images.  I have been working at this for a while now with very
limited success.  I am using Gnome predict to find the satellites and
control the radio using rigctld.  I am using xwxtoimg to decode the
sounds coming off the radio.  The antenna is a Quadrifilar Helix
antenna.  Often I will get a very noisy picture, with what appear to be
clouds near the middle and increasing noise toward the top and bottom
edge.  I have the FM deviation as high as it will go in the menu.
Finally last night I was near(life is busy, usually I set it up and get
called away) the radio as a satellite was entering the horizon so I
unplugged the radio from the computer and listened.  I could very
clearly hear the signal, but as the satellite got closer and closer to
over head as shown on gnome predict the audio started muting.  It seemed
to mute as the frequency was being adjusted by gnome predict.  By
default the frequency is adjusted every 1 second.  When I changed it to
every 2 seconds it seemed to get better.  Any idea why this is happening
and is there any sort of workaround?  It doesn't seem to happen until
there is a strong signal.  The software seems to be continuously
adjusting the radio's frequency even well before the satellite comes
into view and the static doesn't mute.  Incidentally, initially I think
squelch was set to a 3, I ended up setting it to 0.

Any ideas?

What is the theoretical maximum deviation for FM this module can do?  Be
helpful for this kind of thing to widen it up more...

Incidentally, the satellites transmit in the vicinity of 137MHz.
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 RS-232 problem

[John Pitz]

It is likely a RS232 speed issue like Dick Dievendorff said.  Something
else you may want to do is change the KX3 baud rate to match the
KXPA100.  The KXPA100 doesn't care what the baud rate of the KX3 is and
will auto detect it.  This way you will be able to seamlessly use the
KX3 by itself if for some reason you don't want or need the amp.


On Fri, 2016-11-04 at 06:37 -0700, Thomas Beltran wrote:

> I have read some emails concerning the RS-232 connector on the KXPA100's
> back panel not working with software applications that need the rig's data,
> but I did not see any resolution.  In my case, I just set up a ciro mazzoni
> midi loop.  This loop will follow the radio's frequency, getting data from
> the rig.  Unfortunately, the loop's control box only works automatically
> when the the RS-232 connector from the control box is hooked directly to the
> KX3's side panel, meaning I can only run 10 watts.  BTW, there is a slight
> delay in setting the frequency, but loop works pretty nicely.  However, it
> will not work when plugged into the RS-232 connector on the KXPA100's back
> panel.If it makes any difference, the loop control box uses a DB9, so I
> am using the KXSER (3.5mm to DB9-F) Cable.  Hopefully, someone on this list
> has not only encountered this problem but has a remedy.  Thanks in advance.
> Tom W2CRN
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] kxpa100 computer interface

[John Pitz]

My advice would be to set the comm speed of the KX3 to 38400 as well,
that way you can seamlessly use the KX3 when the amp is off or not
connected.  The amp will autodetect the new speed for the KX3 and you
will not have to change anything else.


On Mon, 2016-10-03 at 23:15 +, Gary Slagel via Elecraft wrote:

> Thanks Don I took a look and I've got the cables all right.  But, Dick at 
> elecraft suggested I look at communication speed that I had n1mm+ set at and 
> set it to 38,400 and that took care of it.
> Thanks for the answers and hope this helps someone else as well. Gary 
> SlagelAce Hardware #14814207 So ChicagoHot Springs, SD 57747(605) 890-2310KT0A
>  
> 
>   From: Don Wilhelm 
>  To: Gary Slagel ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>  Sent: Monday, October 3, 2016 4:17 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] kxpa100 computer interface
>
> Gary,
> 
> You did not specify the cable connections that you are using.  You 
> should have the KXPACBL for best integration with the KX3.  See pages 14 
> and 15 of the KXPA100 manual.
> 
> If you do have those cables and have them connected correctly, then I 
> would say that you have a problem with the KXPA100 and that you should 
> contact Elecraft support.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 10/3/2016 5:53 PM, Gary Slagel via Elecraft wrote:
> >  I'd like to be able to use my kx3/kxpa100 along with my k3 for so2r.  I've
> > got n1mm+ talking to both the k3 and the kx3 and I can even talk to the kx3
> > through the kxpa100 connection.  However, I can only talk to the kx3 through
> > the kxpa100 connection when the kxpa100 is off!  This kind of defeats the
> > purpose of having the kxpa100.  Is there a solution to this problem?
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[John Pitz]

On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I
remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty
similar to the one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success
crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I
have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to
extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do
manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to
push into the housing.  Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip
cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better cable to use, ideally something
really flexible?  A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is
always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.

KD8CIV


On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:

> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
> 
> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
> 
> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
> 
> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
> 
> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
> 
> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
> > The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
> > non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has 
> > anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong 
> > connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the 
> > connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct 
> > the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in 
> > strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. 
> > Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. 
> > Thank you all.
> >
> > Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
> > r.trist...@gmail.com 
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
> > https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 
> > 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] A Message from Elecraft

[John Pitz]

They are not asking for permission to email you, they are assuming that
permission has been granted and are asking you to opt out if that
bothers you.



On Thu, 2016-09-01 at 09:29 -0700, KD6QZX wrote:

> Keep sending.. 
>  
> 
> On Thursday, September 1, 2016 9:23 AM, KD3RF [via Elecraft] 
>  wrote:
>  
> 
>   Here's something that's rere DX...
> A message from a company ASKING FOR PERMISSION TO E-MAIL ME !
> I want to get Elecraft eMails and really appreciate these guys asking.
> Thanks guys!
> 
> 
>  
> - Forwarded Message -
>  From: Elecraft <[hidden email]>
>  To: 
>  Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2016 12:04 PM
>  Subject: A Message from Elecraft
>
>  A Message from Elecraft #yiv3777184306 p{ margin:10px 0;padding:0;} 
> #yiv3777184306 table{ border-collapse:collapse;} #yiv3777184306 h1, 
> #yiv3777184306 h2, #yiv3777184306 h3, #yiv3777184306 h4, #yiv3777184306 h5, 
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> #yiv3777184306 a img{ 
> border:0;min-height:auto;outline:none;text-decoration:none;} #yiv3777184306 
> body, #yiv3777184306 #yiv3777184306bodyTable, #yiv3777184306 
> #yiv3777184306bodyCell{ min-height:100%;margin:0;padding:0;width:100%;} 
> #yiv3777184306 #yiv3777184306outlook a{ padding:0;} #yiv3777184306 img{ } 
> #yiv3777184306 table{ } #yiv3777184306 .yiv3777184306ReadMsgBody{ 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The Heathkit clocks are back!

[John Pitz]

Unfortunately Heathkit seems to be stuck in some sort of Lazarus loop.  

I just hope that a Chinese company isn't using such a venerable name to
give credibility to sell more poorly made electronic goods.



On Mon, 2016-08-08 at 10:59 -0700, EricJ wrote:

> Given that we've heard "Heathkit has risen" [BentonHarbor 28:6]  monthly 
> for the last 40 years, I'd want to hear from someone who actually 
> ordered and received something before I sent any money. I''m not 
> implying anything dishonest at all, but vaporware is vaporware.
> 
> In the mean time, I wish them all the luck in the world. My first rig 
> was a DX-35 for my 15th birthday. It was sad to see them fall on hard times.
> 
> Eric KE6US
> 
> ex-KN1DCK
> 
> 
> On 8/8/2016 9:03 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:
> > Likely of interest to many of us.
> >
> > www.heathkit.com
> > __
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> >
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 firmware wish

[John Pitz]

I would like to second that request!



On Thu, 2016-07-07 at 09:39 +0200, Erlend Grimseid wrote:

> When switching to data modes, the mic btn and mic bias settings in the menu
> is disabled.
> I use vox in some settings and have rigged a cable with ptt for my TNC.
> Also if i forget to turn of mic bias before connecting my smartphone, the
> phone goes crazy and thinks I'm pushing buttons on my headset.
> 
> With the current firmware I have to go to voice mode, change settings and
> then back to data A mode.
> 
> 
> Would it be possible to enable changing mic settings in data mode?
> 
> 73
> De
> LA4TTA
> Erlend
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 LEDs

[John Pitz]

I keep mine on their lowest settings too, wish they would go lower from
a battery use standpoint.  For me the lowest setting is more than
adequate for use in bright sunlight which for me is pretty rare.  It
would also be nice to be able to turn down the display brightness,
Assuming the display back light is on a PWM channel...


On Wed, 2016-06-22 at 11:30 -0400, Kevin - K4VD wrote:

> Does anyone else find the LEDs on the KX3 to be a little too bright?
> Especially the green one. It seems the red and yellow are frosted/diffuse​
> a little but the green one is blinding at the wrong angle.
> 
> I have the LED BRT set to 1. Any chance of making position #1 even dimmer
> in a future release? For now I just display PS voltage which keeps the
> yellow lights off. Tape will work to cover them up too. But increasing the
> range of the adjustment seems more elegant.
> 
> 73,
> Kevin K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] KXPD2 Vs. KXPD3

[John Pitz]

In operating hammock mobile, did you find the SWR to be more favorable
than operating in other situations?  As a followup question do you think
there is a correlation between discount rate and DX? ;)
 


On Sat, 2016-06-11 at 13:11 -0700, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> Hi Phil,
> 
> We're getting close to shipping KXPD2s. We made some minor changes to the 
> design, and we always extensively retest in this case to ensure high 
> reliability in the field. I've been using my updated unit all over the place, 
> from the storied riparian forests of San Mateo county to the 10% discounted 
> Home Depot hammock in my back yard.
> 
> The KXPD2 has the following features:
> 
> - total length just 1.3" to minimized packed size
> - ultralight, 3-D printed polycarbonate housing 
> - rounded-end paddles for comfortable use over a wide range of angles
> - vibration-resistant contact adjustment screws
> - allen wrench stores on the paddle for easy field adjustment
> - works with KX2 or KX3
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> On Jun 11, 2016, at 1:14 AM, "Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com [KX3]" 
>  wrote:
> 
> > I just received my KX2, and have planned to add the KXPD2 as soon as it is 
> > available. No KXPD3 on hand because I use a Begali Adventure with my KX3. 
> > But for the KX2 I'd like a paddle with a smaller profile.
> > 
> > My KX2 order included a KXPD2, but I see from photos here and there that 
> > the KXPD3 looks nice on the KX2.
> > 
> > So now I'm wondering if I should get the KXPD3 for my KX2, rather than the 
> > KXPD2. My questions are (and hopefully the KX2 field testers have had a 
> > shot at using the KXPD2):
> > 
> > What are the differences between these two options? I see the KXPD3 is $20 
> > or so higher in price, but I'm more interested in construction and 
> > performance (how they feel) differences.
> > Is one easier to use than the other, or is the only plus of the KXPD2 its 
> > smaller size?
> > Are there other factors I should consider?
> > Since I've not used the KXPD3, I'm pretty much in the dark -- so any input 
> > appreciated!
> > 
> > 73, Phil W7OX
> > 
> > 
> > __._,_.___
> > Posted by: Phil Wheeler 
> > Reply via web post  •Reply to sender
> > •Reply to group •   
> > Start a New Topic   •   Messages in this topic (1)  
> >  
> >  
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> > __,_._,___
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] New products

[John Pitz]

Thus is born the KXi


On Sun, 2016-06-05 at 11:48 -0700, Phil Wheeler wrote:

> Good discussion, Tony.
> 
> Re "If my fantasy radio was developed it would be 
> quantum based system that would allow you call 
> through other dimensions over vast distances with 
> out any propagation delay." I'd settle for an 
> advancement which let me work you from California 
> running 5 Watts to a one meter indoor antenna and 
> no counterpoise -- during the low part of the 
> sunspot cycle :-)
> 
> 73, Phil W7OX
> 
> On 6/5/16 11:28 AM, Tony G6GLP wrote:
> > Hi All,
> > I thought I might put my oar in on this; New 
> > products need a market is true and trying to 
> > second guess it is another story.
> >
> > How would I go about developing a new product? I 
> > believe that we need to see a gap in the market 
> > since we are not going to create a new market 
> > like texting. The size of the addressable 
> > customer base needs to be large enough to 
> > support the development cost. One thing that 
> > many people see as improvement is the touch 
> > screen, while I support development in this area 
> > it is not core functionality to our hobby (can I 
> > see the flack coming on that?). The KX2 and 
> > K-POD are good examples of pushing the new 
> > product while building on current development ( 
> > no I dont have an inside view of the products 
> > but it stands to reason). Who was it that said 
> > there are many Japanese VHF txcvrs? The latest 
> > trend is into the digital coms so something in 
> > that area maybe the next thing but I would 
> > recommend an open source approach to the digital 
> > coms to get others helping with the future 
> > development of repeater type multi channel things.
> > I would personally be more interested in an 
> > integrated larger HF amp or even a combiner to 
> > use say three KPA500 to achieve the higher output.
> > If my fantasy radio was developed it would be 
> > quantum based system that would allow you call 
> > through other dimensions over vast distances 
> > with out any propagation delay. Maybe in a few 
> > thousand years :-)
> >
> > 73 de Tony G6GLP
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product for Dayton?

[John Pitz]

new KXPAFULLLEGALLIMIT amp?



On Fri, 2016-05-06 at 09:56 -0400, Warren Merkel wrote:

> I ran across this in an undisclosed location.  Could this be the next
> Elecraft box radio for Dayton?
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24789865/Elecraft2016DaytonSecretProject.jpg
> 
> Warren, KD4Z
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Re: [Elecraft] New shack PC...

[John Pitz]

Linux Mint 17.3


On Mon, 2016-04-18 at 13:21 -0600, David Davis wrote:

> I am curious what flavor of Linux everyone prefers with respect to being 
> able to run the Elecraft utilities for the KX3 and other software 
> related to amateur radio.
> 
> Thanks in advance for the replies.
> 
> David
> KG6MTI
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod Control Panel for K3S and K3 Transceivers

[John Pitz]

I don't want to cause excessive topic drift here, but I really
appreciate the various simple options that the KX3 provides.  If I want
to do digital, there is the IQ output.  If I want to do ssb, there is
mic input.  If I want computer control or to update the firmware there
is an RS232 input.  I can use any or all of them as my needs at the
moment dictate.  Having the rs232 by the way enables me to use a
microcontroller to control the radio.  If the KX3 used USB there is no
way that most people will be able to put together a microcontroller
project to control their radio.  Just about anyone can program for
RS232, very few can deal with a USB stack.  I will gladly deal with the
cabling in exchange of the flexibility that it enables.  Just one
customer's pennies worth.  Have a great night everyone.


On Thu, 2016-04-14 at 17:38 -0700, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> Done. For most applications, a single USB cable to the radio (K3S, or a K3 
> with a KIO3B module) is all that's required for combined computer data and 
> audio. 
> 
> We provide lots of other DC, audio, and digital I/O too, just in case you 
> need it. For example, we provide a second headphone jack, second mic jack, 
> and stereo speaker outputs on the back. Just in case.
> 
> No way to get rid of the DC input jack, antenna jack, and ground screw, of 
> course. 
> 
> I suppose the keyer paddle could go to Bluetooth?
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> On Apr 14, 2016, at 5:22 PM, Barry Jablonski  wrote:
> 
> > Hi Keith,
> > 
> > I totally agree.  In the software world it's called spaghetti code -- in 
> > the hardware world it's an octopus's garden.  RS-232 is so 30 years old!  
> > All modern radios
> > have one go's into and one go's out'a.  Using standard modern protocols.  
> > Elecraft needs to join the modern world.
> > 
> > Barry
> > 
> > 
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Re: [Elecraft] What's best Soundcard Interface for KX3

[John Pitz]

On the topic of sound cards, I was wondering what the advantages are to
using the IQ output of the KX3 as opposed to feeding the headphone jack
into the input of the soundcard?  I believe the IQ output requires
stereo input to work, but what are the advantages?  I have seen on this
list quite a few people with radios that have an IQ output still use the
headphone output to decode the digital modes.  I am under the impression
that the PX3 can display a 200KHz slice of the RF spectrum using the IQ
outputs whereas the best I can get out of fldigi is about 4KHz.  Is
there any way to coerce fldigi to display a wider chunk of the band?  I
am running fldigi on Linux.


John 
KD8CIV

On Sun, 2016-04-10 at 14:56 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> George,
> 
> You laptop may have only a mono input for the mic/line-in, but for 
> digital modes, only one channel is used, so it should work - just be 
> sure to turn off sounds from your OS so those are not transmitted on the 
> air.
> 
> A simple and inexpensive USB soundcard can eliminate the problem of 
> sounds from the OS.  Just make certain the USB soundcard is *not* the 
> default sound device.
> 
> For digital modes, you do not need an expensive interface.  Yes, some 
> provide ready made cables to connect with your radio, some have galvanic 
> isolation on the audio lines, and some provide PTT to the transceiver, 
> but VOX works just great with the KX3 for digital modes (you don't need 
> PTT).
> 
> The big difference between soundcards (including those built into 
> interface boxes) for digital modes is the noise floor of the soundcard.  
> You mentioned Signalink, and while popular, it is not the best interface 
> available.
> 
> Try your laptop internal soundcard before buying anything else, it may 
> be all you need.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 4/10/2016 2:09 PM, George_yv5wz wrote:
> > Thank you Don!
> >
> > So  you mean  I don't need to buy anything just my laptopthat's
> > interesting!
> >
> > however, I'm kind of confusewhy so many brands of expensive interface
> > sound carddoes it represent any better signal or any using interface
> > ?I mean 100 Box (signlink)  against simple USB soundcard (12 box)
> > .does it really matter?
> >
> >
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/PX3 Linux Utilities for Raspberry Pi?

[John Pitz]

I would find a KX3 utility program targeting the Pi to be helpful too.
I would find it especially helpful if the KX3 utility was made open
source, then we could compile it for any platform we wish.  Plus, I
could take care of a certain, irksome programming error...


On Thu, 2016-04-07 at 15:50 +0100, Andy McMullin wrote:

> Hi All,
> 
> I’ve had a go at searching back through the archives, but couldn’t find the 
> question being asked, let alone the answer so here goes….
> 
> The Linux versions of the utilities are for an X86-based machine. Has anyone 
> asked for them to be recompiled for an ARM machine? In particular, now that 
> the Raspberry Pi 3 is about — with astounding performance for the price (at 
> only £25) — for Raspbian?
> 
> I’ve got my Raspberry Pi 3 running WSJT-X and FLDIGI just fine to my KX3. 
> With a small screen and suitable supply it makes a fine 12v-based portable 
> system. It would be nice, therefore, if I could also use the same small 
> machine for any firmware updates, Macro settings and to work CW etc direct 
> with the KX3.
> 
> BUT, is it just me? Anyone else interested?
> 
> —
> Regards
> Andy, G8TQH  
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[Elecraft] KX3 Baud rate

[John Pitz]

Hello,

I was wondering if there is any particular reason the default BAUD rates
for the KX3 and KXPA100 are different.  Does the amp need a higher baud
rate than the KX3?  Can I set the KX3 to use the same baud rate as the
amp?  The reason I would like to do this is I only occasionally have the
amp connected, and it would be nice if when I do hook up the amp I don't
have to go into the settings of fldigi and wsjtx and keep changing
things whenever my setup changes.

John 
KD8CIV
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Re: [Elecraft] Raspberry PI 3 and K3

[John Pitz]

It is interesting that you mention this, I am quite a ways into a
similar project.  I have a Pi3 connected to a 7" touch screen display.
I also have a USB soundcard setup on it and this last weekend made a
contact using my KX3 and fldigi to make a very clumsily executed on my
part contact with a HAM in Florida.  I have found that a stylus makes
life much easier with tiny displays.  The Pi is an aweful lot of
computer for so little money.


On Mon, 2016-04-04 at 11:08 -0600, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:

> Here's an interesting observation - just setup my newly received 
> Raspberry Pi 3.  After setting it, which was very simple, I selected 
> fldigi and flrig from the software directory.  After the installed I 
> plugged in my K3 USB cable and setup fldigi just as I would on any other 
> linux computer.  Slightly amazed that it worked great.  So, imagine - a 
> $39 computer that can run any linux ham software and its smaller than 
> your hand.
> 
> Doug -- K0DXV
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Re: [Elecraft] Too much of a good thing is just fine

[John Pitz]

There is truth to the boat thing...  Anyone here interested in buying a
1978 San Juan 28 sailboat?  She has been very well maintained.
Currently she is in Saint Joseph, MI.


On Thu, 2016-03-24 at 21:56 -0500, Kevin Stover wrote:

> Na, it could be worse.
> You could be buying or building boats.
> A boat being defined as a "hole in the water you pour money into".
> 
> On 3/24/2016 1:35 PM, lstavenhagen wrote:
> > sorry, gents, I'm not going to be any help to you at _all_ LOL. The only
> > effective treatment available is probably a 2nd job or a rich XYL hi hi.
> > Other than that, I think we're just screwed...
> >
> > 73,
> > LS
> > W5QD
> >
> >
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Strong recommendation: MFJ 18xx-series single-band whips for KX3, etc.

[John Pitz]

Hello All,

Please excuse the amateurishness of this question, but could you get one
of these whips for a low band such as 40M and use it on say 20M if you
don't extend it fully?  

John Pitz
KD8CIV



On Wed, 2016-03-23 at 22:02 -0700, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> "Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org [KX3]"  
> wrote:
> 
> > I got the whip for 17m. I figure there is not much difference between a 
> > coil at the base of the whip and a coil inside the ATU. Neither one will 
> > radiate. So get a whip for the highest band you want to use and let the ATU 
> > provide loading for lower bands.
> 
> That is not my experience. A high-Q loading coil, combined with the whip, is 
> resonant near a given band and provides much lower loss than a whip of the 
> same length with no coil, matched using the internal ATU. So while the ATU 
> *can* match the whip on bands other than the design band, the farther you get 
> from the design band, the greater the loss. 
> 
> That said, a 17-meter whip is a good choice if you want to occasionally use 
> it on 20 and 15 meters and you're willing to accept the comopromise. I'll try 
> to put some numbers this. I have whips for all three bands for comparison. 
> 
> When I operate mobile I use a 17-meter whip for this reason. A mobile whip 
> with a larger tunable coil would work much better outside the design band, 
> but my XYL (when she's riding in my CRV) prefers the svelte look of that 
> skinny, single-band radiator :)
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > wunder
> > K6WRU
> > Walter Underwood
> > CM87wj
> > http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Just Received my New KX3

[John Pitz]

It would actually be nice to be able to lock out any arbitrary control.
I keep accidentally adjusting MIC gain.  Be nice to turn off the ability
to adjust it in the menu until I want to do so more deliberately than
the "random tweaks" I keep giving it :)


On Wed, 2016-03-23 at 20:54 -0500, Tim Henrion wrote:

> Hi Wayne,
> Is there an ‘official’ channel for firmware feature requests? I’d really love 
> to see an easy way to adjust NR mix without having to disable/reenable it or 
> to go through the menus. It would be nice to be able to tweak it while tuning 
> around the bands. The other thing I’d like to do is to be able to disable or 
> lock the RF gain control (i.e. put it on 0db and leave it there to prevent 
> ‘accidentally’ changing it and wondering why the band went quiet).
> 
> I also need to agree with another poster here that the PX3 is freakin’ 
> awesome. Just got mine.
> 
> Thanks,
> Tim Henrion
> KC1EOQ
> 
> Both of the newer Yaesu radios that I have (FTDX-3000 and FT-991) give a way 
> to do this to one degree or another.
> 
> 
> > On Mar 23, 2016, at 8:22 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> > 
> > Tom,
> > 
> > Glad you like the rig. If you have a question that stumps the experts, drop 
> > me an email. I have a unique perspective as the guy who wrote the firmware 
> > and owner's manual :)
> > 
> > 73,
> > Wayne
> > 
> > 
> > On Mar 23, 2016, at 12:02 PM, TFJM via Elecraft  
> > wrote:
> > 
> >> I'd like to thank everyone who took the time to respond to my posting about
> >> just buying my new KX3 (first radio purchased since 1980) and answering 
> >> some
> >> of my questions I had and providing suggestions and feedback. Much
> >> appreciated.
> >> 
> >> I have to say this KX3 is amazing and I'm very happy that I made this
> >> purchase. I spoke with Elecraft just the other day with a few questions and
> >> Craig there was great just as he was answering questions last month before 
> >> I
> >> ordered my KX3.
> >> 
> >> Again, thanks!
> >> 
> >> 73,
> >> 
> >> Tom / W1PDI
> > 
> > 
> > 
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[Elecraft] KX3 err dsx

[John Pitz]

Hello,

I just had an issue with my KX3 and was wondering if anyone else has
seen this error before.

I was using memory location 1 to call CQ on 20M SSB.  While the the
message was playing back I unplugged my headphones and plugged in my
Pioneer steareo so the other occupant of the room, my 4 year old
daughter, could hear if anyone responded.  When I plugged in the the
steareo the KX3 audio stopped and displayyed on the LCD was 
d=000
err DSX
Even when I unplugged the steareo there was still no audio.  When I
pushed a random button the error message disappeared and the radio
APPEARED to function normally except for no audio.  I power cycled the
radio and everything went back to normal.  Is this normal?  According to
the manual this is a DSP error?  
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Re: [Elecraft] Filtering RFI from LED & flouresence Dimmer Switches

[John Pitz]

For what it's worth, when LEDs first became affordable I thought the
perfect place to try one out was in the garage door opener.  With all
the vibration and the constant cycling on and off every time the beam
was broken an LED bulb seemed like a perfect fit.  We ran into an issue
immediately.  When we opened the door in the morning to go to work, the
controller would turn on the light bulb.  The light bulb somehow
clobbered the receiver so we were unable to close the garage door with
the remote.  We would have to get out of the car and go into the garage
to use the push button then try to scamper out without breaking the
beam.  When we got home from work we would be able to open the door with
the remote.  The only time the remote didn’t work was when the the light
was on.  The wife was convinced the opener was going bad.  I got to be
the hero and fixed the opener, by replacing the light bulb.  That was
one of the easiest repairs I have done to that thing hi hi! 

John Pitz
KD8CIV


On Mon, 2016-01-25 at 17:57 -0800, David Ahrendts wrote:

> Thanks to all who have posted on this thread. Very informative. I have an 
> entire house full of Lutron dimmers — all servicing halogens — circa 2001 
> design (pre-LED). And being a green guy with solar panels on the roof and 
> plug-in hybrid, I was considering LEDs for the whole house. Will step very 
> carefully now because of this discussion. Curious, does anyone have an 
> example of LED noise recorded?
> 
> David Ahrendts, KK6DA (formerly KC0XT), LA
> 
> 
> > On Jan 25, 2016, at 5:22 PM, Kevin Stover  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > My simple (=cheaper) solution is to get rid of the dimmers all together.
> > How much is a good old fashioned light switch at the big three, $1.50, two 
> > buck if you want a matching switch plate.
> > When we bought our house I replaced six dimmers. Didn't hear a peep from 
> > "she who must be obeyed".
> > I have about that many CFL's to swap out for LED's. The garage fluorescents 
> > will be a different story. They get to stay as long as they stay radio 
> > quiet.
> > 
> > On 1/25/2016 6:52 PM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
> >> My simple (= cheep) solution is to simply turn off
> >> all dimmer controlled lights when I'm on the
> >> air.
> >> For me, this is easy since there's only two in the
> >> whole house!
> >> 
> >> Charlie k3ICH
> >> 
> >> 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > R. Kevin Stover
> > AC0H
> > ARRL
> > FISTS #11993
> > SKCC #215
> > NAQCC #3441
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com   
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Anti Static Bench

[John Pitz]

I would think that just a simple blue ESD mat, and a wrist strap, on
your favorite workbench is more than sufficient for any home based hobby
operation.  If you really wanted to be thorough about it a warm mist
humidifier going in the room your workbench is in would be a helpful and
inexpensive addition.  Just be sure your blue mat is solidly connected
to ground...


On Sun, 2016-01-24 at 18:29 -0500, Jerry Moore wrote:

> Seems to massive overkill if you're only casually needing ESD once in a 
> while. If you're going to go all the way then you need a temp/humidity 
> controlled clean room with full ESD. For 99% of us a matt/strap setup and 
> basic precaution is more than sufficient. It all comes down to risk 
> management. 
> Anyway,  to each their own. 
> 
> On January 23, 2016 8:50:16 PM EST, Mark Goldberg  
> wrote:
> >I agree with the previous responses. ESD material does wear out,
> >especially in my dry climate. It has to be replaced once in a while.
> >In commercial operations is is tested on a schedule and discarded if
> >it does not pass. It has to be conductive enough to keep parts from
> >damage and resistive enough to not allow a shock.
> >
> >I would like to offer another option.
> >
> >Home Depot will sell you workbench legs, I bought these but they have
> >several sizes. They were shipped free
> >
> >http://www.homedepot.com/p/Edsal-33-in-Adjustable-Height-Workbench-Legs-ABL30/204417821;jsessionid=E3520EC0F5BF7CC72323A1EF2F5C2DE0
> >http://www.homedepot.com/p/Edsal-5-in-x-72-in-Work-Bench-Stringer-ST72/204417825
> >
> >I then laminated 1/8 masonite on a solid core door, routed the edges
> >and put oak edge banding on just for grins to make the bench tops. I
> >also but blocks under the legs to make it taller for a stand up bench.
> >
> >Take a look at my qrz.com page for pictures.
> >
> >It saved a bunch of money over a standard lab type workbench and I had
> >fun making it. A standard countertop or similar would go on the legs
> >easily, they just screw onto the bottom. The legs are very sturdy. I
> >just put ESD mat on the work surface area. The edge banding was not
> >the best idea, it tends to chip easily. I connected my ground system
> >to the metal legs, maybe it helps as a counterpoise, maybe it makes no
> >difference.
> >
> >73,
> >
> >Mark
> >W7MLG
> >
> >
> >On Sat, Jan 23, 2016 at 6:28 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX 
> >wrote:
> >> Places such as LOWE'S and HOME DEPOT carry stock counter tops.
> >Usually in 4
> >> ft, 6 ft, 8 ft and 10 ft lengths of several different colors. 
> >Standard
> >> depth including the back splash is about 25".I have used one for
> >years.
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft web site

[John Pitz]

Try rebooting any network access hardware you have, such as cable
modems, routers, switches, etc.  I had a similar issue the other day
except that I couldn't get to fox news and a few other sites I visit
regularly.  Ended up rebooting the cable modem and wireless switch.
Everything worked as expected afterward.

John
KD8CIV

On Wed, 2015-12-30 at 16:56 -0500, JJ wrote:

> Dead here as well.  Same results with Google Chrome and Windows
> Explorer. Browsing data, browser cache and DNS cache cleared, still
> dead.
> 
> Jon
> WS1K
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Re: [Elecraft] HELP!!!

[John Pitz]

Mine does that as well.  I have found two solutions.  The first and
easiest is to turn off the mic button.  In the menu settings MIC BTN
change from UP.dn to off, then turn on VOX, just to the left of VFO A
tuning knob.  The other solution which is a little more elegant is to
tell your JT65 software to use CAT control as the PTT method.  I use
WSJT-X on Linux, the setting is in File->Settings, then click on the
radio tab.  Under RIG select Elecraft K3/KX3, then whatever serial port
you are using, then your baud rate-probably gong to be 4800, unless you
are using a KXPA100 then the bauud rate will be 38400 most likely.  On
the right hand side of the window under PTT method select CAT.


On Sat, 2015-11-21 at 18:49 +, James Rodenkirch wrote:

> Tnx Kevin ...but, even with the computer off and regardless if in USB or data 
> A mode and with PTT selected the xmt light comes on...
> 
> 
> From: kevino z 
> Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2015 11:43 AM
> To: James Rodenkirch
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] HELP!!!
> 
> it is probably best to turn off before connecting any cables.
> even when you plug / unplug the mic cable from the KX3, you will see it go 
> into transmit. I believe it has to do with the plug as you are passing one of 
> the TRRS parts in, the KX3 senses as if two of them are shorted.
> 
> -Kevin (KK4YEL)
> 
> 
> No trees were killed in the sending of this message. However, a large number 
> of electrons were terribly inconvenienced !
> 
> > On Nov 21, 2015, at 1:33 PM, James Rodenkirch  
> > wrote:
> >
> > I am trying to set up my KX3 for JT65 operation...when ever I plug my audio 
> > cable from the computer into the mic input jack the kx3 goes in to 
> > xmt.what is up with that??? I am using supplied cable from Elecraft...
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Re: [Elecraft] Using fldigi with KX3 and KXPA100

[John Pitz]

OK, thanks to a couple of off list email exchanges between an Elecrafter
and another person I found the solution.  In my defense it was not
ENTIRELY operator error.  First, the KX3's default baud rate is 4800.
The KXPA100's default baud is 38400.  fldigi, and in fact wsjtx probably
should have their baud rates set to that value.  secondly, the postwrite
delay in fldigi was set to 5mS.  That value should be increased.  I set
it to 25mS.  It is all working great now.

Thank you to the two people who pointed me in the right direction and 73
to all!

John Pitz
KD8CIV


On Tue, 2015-10-13 at 11:18 -0400, John Pitz wrote:

> I have a KX3 and a KXPA100,  When I have the two connected as per the
> manual with the KXPA100 off, fldigi can connect to the KX3.  As soon as
> I turn on the KXPA100 fldigi can no longer communicate with the KX3.
> How do I get fldigi to communicate to the KX3 with the KXPA100 powered
> up?  It seems that this should be a lot easier than what I am making it.
> 
> My setup is:
> A laptop running Linux mint
> KX3 
> KXPA100
> fldigi v3.23.03 using Hamlib
> 
> I can connect without any trouble with both the KX3 utility and the
> KXPA100 utility.  I was under the impression that both units used
> different command sets and that the KXPA100 would forward anything it
> does not recognize on to the KX3.  
> 
> Incidentally, I did try powering on the amp, then connecting with the
> KX3 utility, then closing the KX3 utility and launching fldigi.  
> 
> It would be really helpful for my education on the digital modes to be
> able to see the frequency I am using on the waterfall display.
> 
> John Pitz
> KD8CIV
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[Elecraft] Using fldigi with KX3 and KXPA100

[John Pitz]

I have a KX3 and a KXPA100,  When I have the two connected as per the
manual with the KXPA100 off, fldigi can connect to the KX3.  As soon as
I turn on the KXPA100 fldigi can no longer communicate with the KX3.
How do I get fldigi to communicate to the KX3 with the KXPA100 powered
up?  It seems that this should be a lot easier than what I am making it.

My setup is:
A laptop running Linux mint
KX3 
KXPA100
fldigi v3.23.03 using Hamlib

I can connect without any trouble with both the KX3 utility and the
KXPA100 utility.  I was under the impression that both units used
different command sets and that the KXPA100 would forward anything it
does not recognize on to the KX3.  

Incidentally, I did try powering on the amp, then connecting with the
KX3 utility, then closing the KX3 utility and launching fldigi.  

It would be really helpful for my education on the digital modes to be
able to see the frequency I am using on the waterfall display.

John Pitz
KD8CIV
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Re: [Elecraft] This Sunday's SSB Net Cancelled

[John Pitz]

What frequency?


On Thu, 2015-09-24 at 12:17 -0600, lmarion wrote:

> There have been some approvals and no objections
> 
> so I will do the Sunday 1800Z net from Montana.
> 
> I will be running K2 serial number 40,
> 
> at 10 watts SSB. Use whatever power you want,
> 
> but it might be fun to try 10 watts and see if you
> 
> can get thru. All are welcome.
> 
> Leroy AB7CE
> 
> 
> -Original Message- 
> From: lmarion
> Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2015 10:31 AM
> To: Ian - Ham ; 'Elecraft List'
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] This Sunday's SSB Net Cancelled
> 
> If there is interest, I could do a retro net from Montana.
> 
> By that I mean, back to what started it all.
> 
> A  QRP SSB 10 watts on my K2  SN 40.
> 
> On my 160 mtr loop  I will hear most of you and the 20 mtr beam is there to
> help you hear me.
> 
> Since the K2 has the capability to listen on the loop and xmit on the beam,
> 
> probably work most and with relays the rest.
> 
> What say ye?
> 
>   Leroy AB7CE
> 
> -Original Message- 
> From: Ian - Ham
> Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2015 8:38 AM
> To: 'Elecraft List'
> Subject: [Elecraft] This Sunday's SSB Net Cancelled
> 
> All,
> 
> 
> 
> Due to my travels this weekend, and nobody offering to take the net, I'm
> cancelling this Sunday's Elecraft Sideband Net. We will resume when I'm back
> in town on Sunday, October 4. I apologize for the inconvenience.
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone have a great weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 73 de,
> 
> 
> 
> --Ian
> 
> Ian Kahn, KM4IK
> Roswell, GA  EM74ua
> km4ik@gmail.com 
> 
> 10-10 #74624, North Georgia Chapter #2038
> 
> PODXS 070 #1962
> K3# 281, P3 #688, KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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