[Elecraft] K2 Remote DC Power Control
I am assembling a remotely-operated K2 station. I need a timer that will kill a runaway transmitter. I am planning to install a kill-switch on the 12 volt DC supply, as that is the only way I can be sure to disable the transmitter. If I have a K2 and the separate 100W power amp, is it sufficient/safe to just disable the power to the K2 base unit (leaving power to the amp connected)? Anybody else experienced in auto-shutoff of a K2? Thanks, Tom, KG3V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Remote DC Power Control
Don, Thanks for the reply, and for all your other help in configuring my K2 station over the last 5 years. Just out of curiosity - can this not be done if they are mounted in the same box? I think when mine were configured that way, there still were two separate 12V inputs - or do they get tied together? I would like to know if my timeout-switch approach would be useable by someone with the KPA-100 in the same chassis as the K2-base. Interesting that it sound like it is not as safe to pull power from the K3 during operation. What about a natural power outage event? Would there be some complications in the recovery process? 73, Tom KG3V On , Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, Yes, it is sufficient to kill the power to the base K2 (when the KPA100 is mounted remotely). Unlike the K3, there is little to be lost (bits mixed up) if you turn the power source off for the K2 during normal operation. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/15/2012 2:14 PM, kg3vt...@gmail.com wrote: I am assembling a remotely-operated K2 station. I need a timer that will kill a runaway transmitter. I am planning to install a kill-switch on the 12 volt DC supply, as that is the only way I can be sure to disable the transmitter. If I have a K2 and the separate 100W power amp, is it sufficient/safe to just disable the power to the K2 base unit (leaving power to the amp connected)? Anybody else experienced in auto-shutoff of a K2? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Remote DC Power Control
Don, I get it. Thanks for the details. Just one more reason I am glad I converted to the separate Amp/ATU box. This makes it very easy. 73, Tom KG3V On , Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, First the answer about the K3 - there is some cleanup work that must be done when the K3 is powered off, so the power off button should be used rather than just pulling the plug. With the K2, there is no difference between pulling the plug and using the power switch. Yes, just like your computer, the K3 is exposed to writing bad data if the plug is pulled (or a power outage occurs). The chances of anything really disastrous is small, but some strange happenings may reveal themselves after such an event - the real answer is it all depends on what the K3 was doing at the time power went out - if it was writing something to storage, that last used frequency, mode, etc. may not be preserved properly. If the base K2 and the KPA100 are mounted in the same box, then the situation is different - you would have to interrupt the higher current connection (to the KPA100) if everything were connected normally. Now, there is a way -- if you do not connect the AUX 12V connector from the KPA100 to the base K2, the base K2 will not be powered by the KPA100 power supply connection - you will have to power the base K2 from the coaxial connector. That makes the power off conditions the same as with the remotely mounted KPA100. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/15/2012 8:26 PM, kg3vt...@gmail.com wrote: Don, Thanks for the reply, and for all your other help in configuring my K2 station over the last 5 years. Just out of curiosity - can this not be done if they are mounted in the same box? I think when mine were configured that way, there still were two separate 12V inputs - or do they get tied together? I would like to know if my timeout-switch approach would be useable by someone with the KPA-100 in the same chassis as the K2-base. Interesting that it sound like it is not as safe to pull power from the K3 during operation. What about a natural power outage event? Would there be some complications in the recovery process? 73, Tom KG3V On , Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, Yes, it is sufficient to kill the power to the base K2 (when the KPA100 is mounted remotely). Unlike the K3, there is little to be lost (bits mixed up) if you turn the power source off for the K2 during normal operation. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/15/2012 2:14 PM, kg3vt...@gmail.com wrote: I am assembling a remotely-operated K2 station. I need a timer that will kill a runaway transmitter. I am planning to install a kill-switch on the 12 volt DC supply, as that is the only way I can be sure to disable the transmitter. If I have a K2 and the separate 100W power amp, is it sufficient/safe to just disable the power to the K2 base unit (leaving power to the amp connected)? Anybody else experienced in auto-shutoff of a K2? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: How close ???
I agree. I would prefer they don't take orders until they have radios ready to ship. Why is everybody in such a hurry to part with their money? We also don't want them to ship radios until they are ready. Once we get them, we want them to be good for many years of use. I am as impatient as the next guy, but let's wait till it is ready. For all of you who really can't wait, I could take you money now and hold it... Just contact me off list 73, Tom KG3V On , TJ Campie tom.cam...@gmail.com wrote: THOSE BLASTED FIELD TESTERSIn reality, the day to take orders is fairly meaningless... none of us are going to get our new little toys until February anyway. That is going to be the hardest part... TJ W0EA On Sun, Dec 11, 2011 at 4:42 PM, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote: kb3...@msn.com wrote: Seems like all questions on the KX3 get an answer pretty quick from the inventors except the when question. Maybe testing is a little behind, maybe parts are not available, maybe manufacturing is taking longer to gear up than expecpted Hi Curron, As usual with a complex product release it's a bit of all of the above. Last month, we gave early field-test units to several very picky operators who've been scrutinizing every detail on behalf of future customers. Several opportunities for improvement have come out of this, and it's critical that we get such changes in now, rather than impose field-upgrades later. I already mentioned the change to the internal battery; the battery holders will now be included, even if you don't purchase the charger module. Our testers also just convinced us to switch to a much nicer (but more expensive) optical shaft encoder for VFO A. These and other last-minute tweaks necessitated layout changes to both of the main PC boards. Since costs also went up, we've been working with vendors to get better pricing on other parts, where possible, so we can hold the line on the retail price. My seven year-old, Griffin, may be the most impatient future KX3 user of all. He's got his own corner at my workbench where he tests batteries, rigs up improbable assemblies of scrapped parts, and makes sure I'm working instead of playing my guitar. When? is his favorite question, and he'll be the first to know. We're still hoping to take orders in December. Wayne N6KR Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KX3/ Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KX3/join (Yahoo! ID required) To change settings via email: kx3-dig...@yahoogroups.com kx3-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: kx3-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ __._,_.___ Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post | Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (10) Recent Activity: New Members 24 New Photos 6 New Links 1 Visit Your Group MARKETPLACE Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now. Switch to: Text-Only, Daily Digest • Unsubscribe • Terms of Use . __,_._,___ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [HAM] Hi Q versus Vertical
I have the Hi-Q 4/80 screwdriver antenna and have only used it mobile so far. It is a great antenna as far as mobile operation goes. I may use it parked in the driveway as one of my fixed antennas for some upcoming contests.You could use the Hi-Q antenna with radials or just leave it on your vehicle, then you don't need the radials. I don't know if that is convenient for you (location of the vehicle relative to the operating position), but it is an option. Good luck, Tom, KG3V On Jan 3, 2010 7:00pm, Maarten van Rossum pd2r.maar...@gmail.com wrote: The antenna by itself maybe small, but keep in mind that in order to make it function properly, you need radials and lots of 'em. If you mount the vertical on the ground, radial length is less important. If you mount is with elevated radials you need at least 2 tuned radials for each band to make it work. But you can find that info on the SteppIR Website as well so you probably no this already ;-) 73, Maarten PD2R 2010/1/3 Mike K2MK k...@comcast.net Hi Frank: Lots of K3 users have the SteppIR BigIR vertical. I know this from being a member of both Yahoo groups. You might want to pose the same question on the SteppIR Yahoo group. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SteppIR/ And I just thought you would like to know that SteppIR has just announced the addition of an optional coil to the SmallIR that will make that antenna work on 80 through 6 meters as does the BigIR. The SmallIR is half the height of the BigIR. Just a bit more stealthy. Maybe it can be made to look like a flagpole. 73, Mike K2MK From Frank KD8FIP: I am looking for an antenna to work 6 thru 80 meters in a condo development. I presently own a k3/10. Stealth is a very strong consideration. It seems that a SteppIR Vertical or Hi Q antenna would make sense. Does anyone have experience with these two antennas for this type of application? Thanks you for your time and expertise. Frank KD8FIP -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Hi-Q-versus-Vertical-tp4246657p4247140.html Sent from the [HAM] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Is the K2 old technology?
Paul, I see you got some good answers but just wanted to add some of my experience. If you are interested in building a kit you can not beat the K2. K3 is a great radio but is not really a kit. The K2 you build starting from a box of parts. One of the greatest things about the K2 kit is that there are almost no wires, so you are not building wiring harnesses (which I do not consider to be fun). You are building boards and building up the chassis. If there was a K3 kit that started with a bag of parts, there would be no decision to make, but that is not the case. If you mainly want a CW rig, I don't see how you could need anything more. BUT if you want mainly a SSB rig, I would suggest you consider the K3 instead. K2 works fine on SSB, but some of the creature comforts could be better. As far as the reflector, some of us urged Elecraft to separate the K2 and K3 lists in some way, but they have opted not to do so. As a result, this is not the resource it used to be for a K2 owner. You can still get ALL your questions answered here, so don't get me wrong, but you will drown in K3 trivia if you just monitor the list, and there is no easy way to receive only K2-related threads that I know of. Go for the K2 and enjoy it. Tom KG3V On Dec 10, 2009 7:20pm, Paul Huff ph...@mi.rr.com wrote: I think that I have finally saved up enough money to purchase my long-desired K2. But there are two thoughts that cause me to hesitate: First, is the K2 long in the tooth? Am I spending a significant amount of money on technology that is on it's way to being obsolete? Second, I will only be able to purchase a basic K2 and plan on adding the extras to it over the next couple of years. Will Elecraft still be offering those products for that length of time? I guess that I will ask that 2nd question directly to Elecraft, but any opinions on the first question would be appreciated. Thanks in advance and 73, Paul - N8XMS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 Clean or replace AF Gain control?
I just noticed my K2 has a problem with the AF Gain control. It is scratchy in the area where I use it most. I see that the RIT control (rarely used) also has some linearity issues. The rig is about three years old. I do not use it on a daily basis, but I do use it in contests , where it gets stressed pretty well. I must either clean or replace the AF Gain control ASAP, and I see it will be rather hard to get at. Can anyone tell me if these controls can be accessed to clean them, or should I just order replacement parts? It would help to know before I tear the rig apart. Thanks and 73, Tom, KG3V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Need KAT2 Help
Don, Thanks again for the help. I think this is working and I will move ahead. I just need to install my new KNB2 and I should be ready to get the rig back in the operating position. I do not have a major gripe with the KAT-2 directions, but it could use an update. I have a fair amount of building experience at this point, and I found myself in 2 or 3 uncertain situations. But the end result is fine, as with all my other Elecraft builds so far. I continue to be very impressed with the design of the K2 and accessories. 73, Tom KG3V On Sep 11, 2009 1:53pm, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, Yes, the balance point is very 'touchy' - such is the situation anytime you are trying to get a null (on any kind of equipment - the null range is very small, and ideally is a single point). On the KAT2, the normal lowest reading on the display is in the 009 to 011 range as you have found - from that I would say all is well. Yes, the Elecraft K2 option manuals do not have as much detailed supplemental information as the K2 manual because the builder would normally have already experienced the details in the K2 manual. That was true initially, but now many K2 are being purchased used and the new owner adds options without having that initial K2 building experience. As far as removing stuff that was not there, the manual must be written to cover any possible K2 configuration - thus, it is important to observe all the If statements - if you do not have a particular option installed, you will have nothing to remove. 73, Don W3FPR kg3vt...@gmail.com wrote: Thanks to both of you for the sugestions. I actually got this to work, and I am not sure if it originally worked, or if my resoldering fixed a problem. I was able to obtain a voltage reading but only over about 20 degrees of the rotation of C55. I had no idea it would be this touchy. Also, the lowest I can get is about 009-011 on the reading. If this sounds normal, I may be OK. If not, I may still want to do some more checking/debugging. The ATU does now appear to be working. In general, I found the KAT2 instructions were not quite up to th elevel of excellance of the other K2 components I have assembled. A couple small things like telling you that R6 was nt yet installed at the end of board assembly would have helped. Also, I was told to remove some stuff that was not there, and told to add some stuff that was already there (of course the later made me happy). As always, thanks for the help. Tom, KG3V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Need KAT2 Help
Thanks to both of you for the sugestions. I actually got this to work, and I am not sure if it originally worked, or if my resoldering fixed a problem. I was able to obtain a voltage reading but only over about 20 degrees of the rotation of C55. I had no idea it would be this touchy. Also, the lowest I can get is about 009-011 on the reading. If this sounds normal, I may be OK. If not, I may still want to do some more checking/debugging. The ATU does now appear to be working. In general, I found the KAT2 instructions were not quite up to th elevel of excellance of the other K2 components I have assembled. A couple small things like telling you that R6 was nt yet installed at the end of board assembly would have helped. Also, I was told to remove some stuff that was not there, and told to add some stuff that was already there (of course the later made me happy). As always, thanks for the help. Tom, KG3V On Sep 10, 2009 8:19pm, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, You must obtain a low balance reading before you can do any *valid* power or SWR calibration. If you cannot null with the capacitor, there is something wrong - normally that something is associated with T1 and the other wattmeter components, but you say you have checked those. OK, the next logical step is to find out for certain whether you have a problem with the wattmeter or the LC board. Separate the Control board from the LC board and place a jumper from J4 pin 2 to J5 pin 15 (yes, it is a long jumper - the second pin in from the far ends). Now, with only the Control Board (you must use the ANT1 connector) - connect a dummy load and again try to balance the wattmeter - if you find that the capacitor now achieves a null, look for the problem (likely a relay) on the LC Board -but if you still cannot null the wattmeter, take another look at T1 and its associated components. 73, Don W3FPR kg3vt...@gmail.com wrote: Just finished assembling a KAT2 for my K2. When I started testing I found a problem. I only get HI on the display in the CALn step, where you are supposed to adjust for a reading of 000. Reducing power as low as I can go, I can get a 000 display, but as soon as I increase the power, I get HI. I tried CALP and I did get readings that made some sense (a high value for FWD and low value for REF power) but the FWD was something like 22 watts, which seems too high. I disassembled and reveiwed the SWR bridge section, counted turns on T1, removed the link on T1 and pulled up T1 to inspect the leads and soldering. Also verified all the component values and soldering in that area. So my streak is over. Thought you just finished assembl, turned on power, and all this Elecraft stuff just worked! Guess it had to happen. Any ideas/ Thanks/73, Tom, KG3V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Need KAT2 Help
Just finished assembling a KAT2 for my K2. When I started testing I found a problem. I only get HI on the display in the CALn step, where you are supposed to adjust for a reading of 000. Reducing power as low as I can go, I can get a 000 display, but as soon as I increase the power, I get HI. I tried CALP and I did get readings that made some sense (a high value for FWD and low value for REF power) but the FWD was something like 22 watts, which seems too high. I disassembled and reveiwed the SWR bridge section, counted turns on T1, removed the link on T1 and pulled up T1 to inspect the leads and soldering. Also verified all the component values and soldering in that area. So my streak is over. Thought you just finished assembl, turned on power, and all this Elecraft stuff just worked! Guess it had to happen. Any ideas/ Thanks/73, Tom, KG3V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Using K2 for both QRP 100 Watts
I have been using my K2 exclusively in the 100W configuration. I now want to have the option of taking just the base radio and using it stand-alone for QRP, but without compromising my normal use with the KPA100. I have separated the KPA100 in the case with the antenna tuner. I am consideinr adding the KAT2 tuner to the base radio. I see that you use the ANT 1/2 switch with the KAT2 for antenna selection on the QRP radio. Can I stil use this switch to select between my 2 antennas on the 100 Watt tuner (when I am bypassing the KAT2)? Thanks, Tom, KG3V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2: Audio stops until power is cycled
I have an intermittent problem. It rarely occurs, but since I mainly use the K2 for Contesting, it is a real annoyance. Suddenly all audio will go dead. The only remedy is to recylce power to the unit. It is very possible that this happens just after I make some control changes (like changing bands and/or filters). I have also had one other strange occurance, that may or may not be related. The LEDs on the KAT-2 will all go dark, and stay that way. I believe the unit still tunes, but no SWR indicators on the panel at all. Again, the only fix is to recycle power to the unit. Any ideas? I am guessing a communication problem, maybe AUX Bus related? 73, Tom, KG3V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2: Extending AUX cable length
Has anyone tried REALLY extending the cable between the K2 and the KAT-2? I would like to separate mine by 20 or 30 feet. What I want to do is get the KAT-2 and all the antenna conectors off of my oprating table, and close to the exit point of the shack. I have heard the main concerns are noise (pickup and radiation) and timing. It would seem that using optical converters and optical cable might take care of both. Any thoughts?? 73, Tom, KG3V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2: Extending AUX cable length
Thanks Don I guess this might have seemed like a good April fools joke, but actually, they do this with many other wire type interfaces. This includes Ethernet and RS-232. So if the drivers are fiber are affordable, I think it could be done. If anyone has any data of the required rise times or prop delays between the devices, plese let me know. I may try something along this line. Tom, KG3V On Apr 3, 2009 10:37am, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Tom, Pulse shaping as well as 'turnaround time' on the AUXBUS signal is important. Extra cable length adds to the capacitance and will round over the shape of the data pulses. Your proposed solution for using optical converters and cable may be a potential solution, but as far as I know has not been tested. You are certainly welcome to try it, and if you do, I would encourage you to share your results. I would be particularly interested in any data you could find on data distortion and delay times through such a system. 73, Don W3FPR kg3vt...@gmail.com wrote: Has anyone tried REALLY extending the cable between the K2 and the KAT-2? I would like to separate mine by 20 or 30 feet. What I want to do is get the KAT-2 and all the antenna conectors off of my oprating table, and close to the exit point of the shack. I have heard the main concerns are noise (pickup and radiation) and timing. It would seem that using optical converters and optical cable might take care of both. Any thoughts?? 73, Tom, KG3V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2} Headphone jack dead?
A couple times over the past year my audio died and I had to cycle power to the rig to get it back. Now suddenly plugging something into the headphone jack does not stop audio going to the speaker (internal or external). This is handy for PSK-31, but not what I want for normal operation. Is this the famous headphone jack failure? Or do I need to do some troubleshooting? I did just start using the headphone jack frequently, so I am guessing that is what has failed. Thanks, Tom KG3V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
