[Elecraft] Serial port control line CW keying with KPA100 supplied cable - where to find the modification schematic ?
Hi there, On page 63 in the KPA100 manual (CW keying and PTT-section) there is a vague comment at the end of the section referring to the Elecraft homepage for references to the NPN-transistor and diode circuit that can be added to the K2 / 100 to use the white wire in the Serial cable for CW keying of the rig, while keeping at the same time the possibility to use a dual-lever paddle. Does anyone know where to find this piece of information on the Elecraft homepage - as I cannot seem to find it ... ? 73 Brian OZ2BRN K2/100 # 6936 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 / KPA100 - net shorted on KPA100 -- C31 / D13 ... failure modes ?
Yep, that was it. You can add this to the list of do's and particularly the DON'Ts of the KPA-100 assembly: * When soldering Q1 and Q2, be careful not to nick the nearby components with the solder iron(s). * If the checkout step of resistance measuring D13 cathode fails and you read something like a short to ground on this net, this could be caused by C31 shorting out as a consequence of the solder process failure above. C31 had shorted out - I guess the two foils were shorted when I hit them with my auxillary solder iron. Replacement done with 2x100 nF / 63V polyester caps in parallel, and we're back again in the alignment buisness. 73' Brian OZ2BRN K2 / KPA100 # 6936 PS: and Don; Reason for asking was to check any other issues the group would have suggested at the same time, now that I had to take off the whole heat sink anyway, in order not to take it off too many times and risk damaging the heat transfer pads in the process. Den 22-01-2011 21:40, Don Wilhelm skrev: Brian, Why speculate, just remove C31 (it needs to be replaced anyway) and remeasure to confirm that C31 is indeed the problem - it quite likely is. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/22/2011 3:11 PM, OZ2BRN Brian Lodahl wrote: Hi there, After 100 % flawless work with the whole K2 journey, the KPA100 and all the add-on modules with bell's and whistles, it seems my turn has come now to have a build error on # 6936, or more specificly; the KPA-100: When doing the 2nd alignment step of KPA100, I measure all the resistances OK but one; The cathode of D13 seems very low resistance to ground and not10 kohms as expected. I measured some 6-7 ohms. The intial checkout in 1st alignment step round confirmed all diodes pass and having the expected forward and reverse voltages / resistances as expected, so I assume for now the Diodes are OK still. Now I may have myself an idea to the failure mode, but can any of you think of other (known) failure modes to this ? My assumption is that I have shorted out the two foil layers of capacitor C31; effectively putting both sides of C31 to ground - as I managed to nick the house of C31 with my auxillary 30W solder iron, when soldering the emitters of Q1 and Q2, and the plastic housing of C31 is now slightly open and the internal foil visible. ( and yes; I'm givin' myself a hard time and cursing my own lack of being careful :-) !! ) Any other bright ideas beyond the obvious C31 defect, hence replace ? 73' Brian OZ2BRN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 / KPA100 - net shorted on KPA100 -- C31 / D13 ... failure modes ?
Hi there, After 100 % flawless work with the whole K2 journey, the KPA100 and all the add-on modules with bell's and whistles, it seems my turn has come now to have a build error on # 6936, or more specificly; the KPA-100: When doing the 2nd alignment step of KPA100, I measure all the resistances OK but one; The cathode of D13 seems very low resistance to ground and not 10 kohms as expected. I measured some 6-7 ohms. The intial checkout in 1st alignment step round confirmed all diodes pass and having the expected forward and reverse voltages / resistances as expected, so I assume for now the Diodes are OK still. Now I may have myself an idea to the failure mode, but can any of you think of other (known) failure modes to this ? My assumption is that I have shorted out the two foil layers of capacitor C31; effectively putting both sides of C31 to ground - as I managed to nick the house of C31 with my auxillary 30W solder iron, when soldering the emitters of Q1 and Q2, and the plastic housing of C31 is now slightly open and the internal foil visible. ( and yes; I'm givin' myself a hard time and cursing my own lack of being careful :-) !! ) Any other bright ideas beyond the obvious C31 defect, hence replace ? 73' Brian OZ2BRN K2 # 6936 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 / KPA100: How to install chokes RFC6-7-8-9 near J8 ?
Hi Bruce K1FFX, Yep, this is also pretty much similar to what I ended up doing - gently bending the leads down below the body of the miniature RFC package, letting them rest elevated about 1mm above the PCB. Good picture - shows the detail of it, and good that there was a backstory to this and I was not the only one loosing my mind over such otherwise perefect build record. May I suggest you still check (as mentioned in the manual) with an ohmmeter that there is good DC contact through each of the RFC 6-7-8-9 to be sure that the bending of the leads does not cause for internal breakage ? 73' Brian OZ2BRN Den 05-01-2011 21:52, K1FFX skrev: I believe this is what you are looking for: http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Builder%20Alert%20Installing%20Small%20Chokes%20Rev%20B.pdf I found it after breaking one of the leads off RFC9 (!). You can have a look at the photo at: http://build-k2.blogspot.com/2010/12/rfc9.html Cheers - Bruce - Bruce Rosen K1FFX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ON4UN has a K3?
Yep, it's been on Youtube for the better part of 2 years now ... Mr. Low-band DX'ing made the big step from Ten-tec Orion's to K3's some time ago. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DT_NwIsz54k 73' Brian OZ2BRN Den 04-01-2011 14:17, Bill W4ZV skrev: Oops, I meant to include the link to W8JI's comments below: http://www.w8ji.com/polarization_and_diversity.htm 73, Bill Craig-89 wrote: I happened to tune across John ON4UN on 40 meters working a JA this morning(his evening). John was soliciting opinions from the JA on the audio quality of a K3.(he sounded great) It will be interesting to hear what John thinks of his? K3. Can anyone confirm that John owns one, or maybe was he just testing someone else's K3? An evaluation from this highly respected author should make for some interesting reading. Sorry for the reference to Craig's old 2008 post above but I searched the archives to see if anyone had mentioned ON4UN's new 5th edition of his Low-Band DXing. I just received my copy a few days ago and the K3 was most definitely the star of Chapter 3 - Receiving and Transmitting Equipment. John's concluding comment at the end of the chapter: You can buy the best transceiver there is on the market for a very reasonable price, the Elecraft K3. And no, I have no connection with Elecraft, and paid the full price for my K3s. I would be ashamed asking for a discount for such a wonderful piece of equipment at such a very reasonable price. For those who may not have seen it, here's another nice endorsement from Tom W8JI regarding diversity and the K3: I implement stereo diversity by phase locking two separate receivers (heavily modified R4C's) together so audio outputs are exactly locked in phase. The receivers are virtually identical, even to the point where I hand select crystal filters for equal group delay change over the filter passband. Every oscillator in the receiver system is common to both receivers. I'm aware of only one commercially available amateur receiver that does true stereo diversity, the Elecraft K3. I currently use an Elecraft K3 since it is the only system that phase-locks two identical receivers, it interfaces a good transmitter with the receivers, and is a modern stable design with accurate frequency readout. SNIP There are articles describing how to electronically lock the receiver tuning of the FT1000D (and other receivers) so the sub-receiver tracks the main receiver. This does somewhat work in the FT1000, because the oscillators share a common time base. The main problem with the FT1000 is the second receiver isn't a very good receiver, the filters do not match, the AGC does not match, and phase shift through the receivers (especially as the signal moves off the filter center) is not at all similar. I had similar disappointment with the Orion system. To the best of my knowledge the K3 Elecraft is the only receiver that has absolutely identical receivers that share one common reference system. That is what I have switched to now. I thought some of you might be interested to see what two of the best low band DXers thought about their K3s. 73 HNY, Bill W4ZV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 / KPA100: How to install chokes RFC6-7-8-9 near J8 ?
Hi, It appears to me that all the mini-chokes RFC6-7-8-9 supplied with the KPA100 kit is not yet small enough to fit into the outline on the PCB, as shown near J8 (the DB-9 connector). The assembly manual does not state anything about the assembly direction of these chokes, if or if not they may be installed upright instead of flat on the PCB - but it appears there may be room to do so. I'm worried that if i attempt to force them in lying flat, I will damage the chokes insulation or cause for an open joint. Any experience here from previous KPA100 builders - what to go for ? 73' Brian OZ2BRN K2 # 6936 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 / KPA100: How to install chokes RFC6-7-8-9 near J8 ?
Thanks, Don - but I just checked again this morning, and it appears neither to be mentioned in the latest assembly manual nor in the latest errata sheets for KPA100. @ Eric, Wayne; Maybe this is to be mentioned in next revision of the errata sheets ? 73' Brian OZ2BRN K2 # 6936 Den 02-01-2011 20:51, Don Wilhelm skrev: Brian, I believe this is addressed on the errata sheet (it used to be). Yes, you can install them upright or at an angle, or with both leads bent under the body to enable horizontal mounting - the choice will depend on your version of which is more aesthetically pleasing. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/2/2011 1:52 PM, OZ2BRN Brian Lodahl wrote: Hi, It appears to me that all the mini-chokes RFC6-7-8-9 supplied with the KPA100 kit is not yet small enough to fit into the outline on the PCB, as shown near J8 (the DB-9 connector). The assembly manual does not state anything about the assembly direction of these chokes, if or if not they may be installed upright instead of flat on the PCB - but it appears there may be room to do so. I'm worried that if i attempt to force them in lying flat, I will damage the chokes insulation or cause for an open joint. Any experience here from previous KPA100 builders - what to go for ? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Control Board Resistance Checks
Hi Paul WN2K, What I propose you do is: 1) Set the return/ground/neutral lead - typically the black lead - of your multimeter, to one of the grounding terminals that you soldered into the control board using a piece of component lead. The easiest way for you to do this is to use an alligator clip, preferably if your multimeter already is supplied with this. 2) You may wish to start with self-testing the ohm meter by itself: Short the two test leads and read out something around 0 ohms. Take a couple of resistors from your junk box, say 1k, 10k, 100k, 1M and measure each of them with the appropriate range. You should see your ohmmeter respond accordingly. Purpose of this test is to build up your own confidence to your test instrument measuring correctly, before you start measureing on your assembled control board and suspect this being wrong. 3) For each of the measurements you need to perform according to the checklist, you set the Ohmmeter's range on the closest level ABOVE this range. Say you need to measure U3 pin 8 to 10k ohms, and your ohmmeter has a 20k range, you set it to 20k. Then you probably in this case see the meter indicate open, so you change to the next range - e.g. 200k ohms and try again. Then if still no reading, change to 2M ohms and try again, until you get a proper reading. Write down this reading in(or by) the right column of the checklist in the assembly manual, in case you need to come back later and debug any further. 4) For some of the system you may see a slow change over time, but this should not be orders of magnitude and should NOT approach the limit listed in the checklist, so I suspect your reading on P2 P1 is ok in this case. 73' Brian OZ2BRN K2 # 6936 Den 05-12-2010 20:18, Paul Agoglia skrev: I have just finished the assembly of the K2 Control Board and am doing resistance checks, as per assembly instructions. Since I have not done something like this before I am hoping I have interpreted the directions correctly. The directions say to take measurements with respect to ground. I am taking that to mean that after I set my multimeter to an appropriate ohms range, that I touch one test lead to the pin to be tested, and the other test lead to a place on the circuit board that is labeled 'ground'. Can someone tell me if my interpretation of the directions is correct, and if so, then I have the following readings. I have highlighted in red the readings that do not fall within the expected outcomes. Any insights would be helpful! I am using a Radio Shack DMM. Pin TestedShould ReadWhat I got P2 P110k slowly moves to 360k -400k U5 5V pin2k13.96k U4 8V pin3-7k3.58k Q1 Collector1MOhm no reading Q2 Collector1MOhm no reading U3 Pin 810k193k U6 Pin 13100k316k U6 Pin 14100k326k U6 Pin 2970-90k13.97k U6 Pin 3070-90k0.0 ohms U8 Pin2100k257k U8 Pin 15100k245k U8 Pin 16100k251k Thanks, 73 de WN2K Paul Agoglia __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - CQWW CW Contest
Stan, I can tell you that I envy you quite a bit ! I was operating at OZ5E as M2 HP station with two Yaesu FT-1000 MP Mark Five's, with all of Inrad's complete inventory of filters added, stubs here, there and everywhere, and two Acom 1010's on the back punching out a full legal limit. Even if we did very well and broke the Danish records (which we did) on CQWW CW points, I missed to try out the K2's receiver and sweet sound on CW, but most of all, I missed it's unparallel in-band blocking when the pile-ups were getting thick and the larger stations from eastern Europe was working as close as 300 Hz on my side most of the time - this really becomes difficult on the FT-1000, even with all the post-production filters one could possibly add. They have so much trouble coping with the large-signal conditions of our own harmonics in the shack from the other running station that they suffer from inter-modulation birdies, bleeps, and blops. I am looking forward to the day where I can finally try out a pair of K2's or K3's in a M2 HP contesting setup on CQWW or similar high-activity CW contest. I get so exited wanting to test for real on real harsh conditions on an over-crowded 40m band how the crystal filters add to the joy of the Elecraft receiver. 73' Brian OZ2BRN K2 # 6936 Den 29-11-2010 21:36, stan levandowski skrev: My barefoot K2 at 5 watts and my 62' attic doublet with the SG-237 autocoupler produced 43 countries, 25 states, and six Canadian provinces for me. I operated on 80, 40, 20, and 15. The K2 performed flawlessly. Stan Levandowski WB2LQF HF QRP CW -- Doing more with less for over 50 years! QCWA #35038 OOTC #4558 NAQCC #4740 SKCC #6488 FISTS #14992 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] # 6936 complete - all FB - in which order to install options now ?
__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] # 6936 complete - all FB - in which order to install options now ?
Hi, # 6936 completed tonigh, all FB. Complete flawless build and calibration throughout the whole phase. (Still riding bareback on K2/10 watt, CW only) Now to my question: Before I go ahead and plug in all the options one by one, is there a certain (and smart) order in which to install the different options listed below ? * KSB-2 SSB option * 160m + 2nd Rx option * Audio filter + real time clock option * Noise blanker option * KPA-100, 100 watt + RS-232 option ( and last but not least the K-ATU-100, which Is external and can be done at the end, I assume) Second question: I have calibrated frequency reference, VFO/BFO using my own signal generator + frequency counter at home. I have aligned the filters using the description in the manual and yet not the method using spectrogram software on PC / soundcard. ( I was supposed to have built a GPS-controlled presicion 10 MHz frequency reference (VE2ZAZ) prior to starting the K2, but I managed to kill the VCO with a drill bit and I'm still waiting to find a new good one ) Before I proceed with any of the options, is there any reason to repeat my calibrations to more precise level of performance ? 73' Brian OZ2BRN K2/10 # 6936 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2] #6936: IF AGC Amp SMT1 missing from RF board inventory check
Hi gents, Done with the inventory check of the RF board, all there EXCEPT ... I cannot seem to find the SMT1, IF-AGC amp, that is SMT mounted on a daughter board. I do however have the two pcs 4-pin headers that go along with it, and the other small SMT component (the pin diode). So far, so good. Now i have experience now a few times during inventory check that special parts can be hidden some funny places in all the packaging material, and this is not really described very well in the manual, so are there anyone besides me that have been missing this one part and found it in a perculiar place in the all the envelopes ? Please advise, so I may have to avoid calling up Elecraft and request this one without reason - HI HI 73- OZ2BRN Brian K2 #6936 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2] What microphone to choose wire - I'd like to hear your experiences - good and bad?
Hi, Not entirely there yet, but I am trying to think ahead of the build plan with K2/100 #6936 with KSB2 option (etc...): What microphones to choose and use for SSB ? -What are your experiences - good and bad - with misc. makes and models of microphones with K2 ? Go for dynamic or electret condenser with biasing ? My preference is headset over table mic's and hand-mic's. Default contesting headset is Heil Proset. 73' Brian OZ2BRN K2 #6936 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2] #6936: IF AGC Amp SMT1 missing from RF board inventory check
No worries, guys. this is not yet setting me back, at least :-) I will complete 100% the inventory check before I proceed to contact Elecraft customer service, that is certain. It is just that I have, as probably many of us, mistakenly been missing stuff until now, only to realize that this was safely packed away in another envelope etc. And - I must admit much to the appreciation of the Elecraft staff - this is until now also the only thing I have found missing. I have a little DX-pedition coming up next week anyway, visiting my sister state-side, so I need not worry about delayed shipments overseas etc., as I will anyway wait with the last part of the build until I return back again. I will in this case off course arrange for the shipment with US mail to my temporary address in US, so that I can bring home with me the missing part(s). 73' Brian OZ2BRN K2 # 6936 Den 09-09-2010 18:34, Guy Olinger K2AV skrev: Hi, Brian. Always go through ALL the components at the beginning. There should be no unopened, un-inventoried envelopes when you start construction. Personally, I've never seen loose components outside envelopes from Elecraft. You could have an entire envelope that got moved somehow. That would be caught by missing an envelope's worth of stuff. That said... Nobody at Elecraft will be bothered that you did not search the Queen Mary with a magnifying glass before you got in touch. Particularly since you are across the pond, get the process started early. The post sometimes puts irritating delays on stuff. If there is a workaround for you to let you get started anyway, based on the part you are missing, they will tell you. 73, Guy. On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 7:20 AM, OZ2BRN Brian Lodahl oz2...@post.cybercity.dk wrote: Hi gents, Done with the inventory check of the RF board, all there EXCEPT ... I cannot seem to find the SMT1, IF-AGC amp, that is SMT mounted on a daughter board. I do however have the two pcs 4-pin headers that go along with it, and the other small SMT component (the pin diode). So far, so good. Now i have experience now a few times during inventory check that special parts can be hidden some funny places in all the packaging material, and this is not really described very well in the manual, so are there anyone besides me that have been missing this one part and found it in a perculiar place in the all the envelopes ? Please advise, so I may have to avoid calling up Elecraft and request this one without reason - HI HI 73- OZ2BRN Brian K2 #6936 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Cleaning a completed PC board
Hi Stan WB2LQF, IN the event that you may decide to do an isolated cleaning of some area of flux that is particularly nasty, then I can definately reccomend this channel on Youtube - it contains loads of good instructions and step-by-step guides to proper work on and around PCB's and components: http://www.youtube.com/user/SolderingGeek#p/u In regards to the cleaning of a PCB, as also Don W3FPR was so correctly pointing out, DO NOT splash this all over your board like its' a bottle of after shave, but rather deposit in small areas with only trace amounts of alcohol at the time. You may find a cotton swab a suitable and more gentle alternative to a brush. You can see in an example here (timestamp 3:58) how this can be performed. http://www.youtube.com/user/SolderingGeek#p/u/37/G14rFgAfwXk 73 - Brian OZ2BRN Den 08-09-2010 20:22, Don Wilhelm skrev: Stan, Do NOT attempt to remove the flux - it is not conductive and will cause no problems, even though it may look slightly messy. In fact, attempts at removing flux can result in unanticipated problems. If the flux residue plus solvent gets under connector headers or relays, or even ICs, it will not be completely removed and the residue left in those places can later make conductive paths where they should not be. I did work on one K1 that had been completely ruined by an attempt at removing the flux. If you must clean a board, do it in small areas - do NOT flood the board with the solvent (yes, use de-natured alcohol, acetone can etch plastic components) - apply the solvent sparingly in a small area at a time, and blot it off with a paper towel. Alcohol attracts water from the air rapidly, and the reduced temperature of the board caused by rapid evaporation will cause the water to condense on the board - wipe it up too, but do not apply power until it has completely dried. If you feel you must remove the flux, build up a small board (like the RF Probe from the parts provided in the K2 kit), and practice your flux removal technique on that first so you know what to expect. If you want to avoid a large flux residue, use a solder with a mildly reactive flux, such as Kester 285. While Kester 44 is much better know, it has a highly reactive flux and leaves much more residue than the mildly reactive flux. Save the highly reactive flux for soldering jobs that have noticeable oxidation on the surfaces. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/8/2010 1:43 PM, stan levandowski wrote: I've been told that it is good practice to clean a completed PC board with either acetone or denatured alcohol and a small toothbrush. I could not bring myself to do this when I completed my KX1 - it just seemed (at least to me) somewhat risky to be brushing a liquid with a nylon toothbrush all over a populated board. Now I'm faced with the same issue as I begin my K2. I want to do everything right because this K2 is going to be my baby -- but. So I am asking for some opinions on just what the risk/benefits are and perhaps to get some idea as to whether this is really a practical and useful process or a purist finishing touch that returns marginal bang for the buck. This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2] S/N 6936 assembly started
After having the kit on my desk since Dayton Hamvention in May, and little or no time to start up, today was the day of days. I am as exited as a 5-year-old at christmas morning :-) 73 OZ2BRN Brian __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Assembly
__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2: How to read errata sheets manual revisions (kit # 6936)
Hehe, the neat tricks keep comin' to me... :-) Thanks guys, this will probably save me hours of preperations for build. Much appreciated ! 73, Brian OZ2BRN Den 30-08-2010 11:13, Stephen Prior skrev: Hi Ian That's _so_ useful! 73 Stephen G4SJP PS See you at the HF Convention in October! On 30/08/2010 07:43, Ian White GM3SEKgm3...@ifwtech.co.uk wrote: Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: It's always a good idea to check the Elecraft web site to see if you have the latest manual and errata just in case an update occurred after your kit was in transit. The easy way to check for recent updates to all Elecraft manuals is: http://www.elecraft.com/manual/?M=D The ?M=D option in the directory listing sorts all manual files into date order, newest at the top. You only need to check the top of the list for recent changes, and your browser will change the link colour on files you have already downloaded. Likewise, the following listing will show any recent modifications: http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/?M=D __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2: How to read errata sheets manual revisions (kit # 6936)
Hi Ele-crafter's, Looking so much forward to the coming weekend, when my vacation starts... because: First full week is devoted to assembly, calibration and checkout of my beautiful K2 kit # 6936 with all options included... I Can't wait :-) Now my question to you: With the kit shipped from Elecraft there are manuals and some errata sheets supplied, but do I need to go in manually to the Elecraft homepage and check for further errata, updates, notes etc. or can I rely that the instructions supplied is enough and will cover the corrections needed ? 73, Brian OZ2BRN / 5P9A __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2: How to read errata sheets manual revisions (kit # 6936)
Excellent explanation, Ron ! This was exactly what I needed to know. Thanks :-) -and yes; I am almost certain I will have a lot of fun next week. Looking so much forward to the process. 73, Brian OZ2BRN Den 29-08-2010 22:27, Ron D'Eau Claire skrev: It's always a good idea to check the Elecraft web site to see if you have the latest manual and errata just in case an update occurred after your kit was in transit. The latest K2 Owner's manual is Revision G and the current errata is G-10. The errata is identified by the revision letter of the manual, in this case Revision G, followed by a sequential number each time the errata is updated, in this case it's the 10th update to the Rev G errata. The latest errata is complete, containing all changes since G-1, so you only need to incorporate the changes shown in G-10 to have your manual completely up to date. Have fun! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi Ele-crafter's, Looking so much forward to the coming weekend, when my vacation starts... because: First full week is devoted to assembly, calibration and checkout of my beautiful K2 kit # 6936 with all options included... I Can't wait :-) Now my question to you: With the kit shipped from Elecraft there are manuals and some errata sheets supplied, but do I need to go in manually to the Elecraft homepage and check for further errata, updates, notes etc. or can I rely that the instructions supplied is enough and will cover the corrections needed ? 73, Brian OZ2BRN / 5P9A __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
