[Elecraft] Kitchen Radio

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

Would someone please tell me how to find the message about the improvised 
radios made from kitchen finds?
Thanks,
Wilson
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[Elecraft] MH2 Mic Problem

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

Well, perseverance pays, sometimes.I realize this mic probably came from China, 
but...
the connections to the end of the cable, in the mic housing, weren't well 
handled.
The connection of the black wire to the shield was made so near the end of the 
outer jacket that overheating other wires was very likely.
When all reheating had failed I had nothing to lose, so cut back the cable 
jacket a half inch or so and, What Ho!
There  was a tiny holiday in the insulation of the yellow wire, the hot audio 
downstream of the white wire from the element.
Naturally, the open spot attracted the strands of the cable shield and they 
eventually made contact with the conductor in the yellow wire!
Could I have nicked the yellow wire? Of course, but the fact is the mic didn't 
work before and now does.
I've done nothing but separate the wires, as they come out of the cable, so I'm 
sticking to my guns and blaming the loss of a couple of hours of my precious 
time on careless work terminating the cable in the housing.
There really is no free lunch and sometimes we have to get to the bottom of 
things to know the truth.
Reminds me of when I found the filaments of a pair of 813s wired in series 
rather than in parallel!
Or the time I found a 2500V power supply in a HB linear hooked up BACKWARD.
Why those builders stopped at those crucial times I'll never know, but both 
amps are decently built and are now on the air.
73,
Wilson
W4BOH
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[Elecraft] Mic Element

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

Further toubleshooting has not found a problem, so I'm still thinking element.
When I was involved with cell phones, they cost a quarter!
I'll check the plant.
WL
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[Elecraft] MH@ Mic

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

My MH2 was dropped onto concrete and is now dead,
Is there an element available?
I don't see anything else that could be wrong.
Wilson
W4BOH
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[Elecraft] Field Day Operation

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

I know it's OT, but want to comment on FD operation here in NC.
I wouldn't even consider going on SSB for FD!But our SSB station on 40/15 made 
over 700 QSO, with several ops of modest experience but sensible people.  K3 
and double bazooka.  They were pleased.
I made almost 400 CW QSOs, K3 and 80m dipole/window line/MFJ tuner.  
I had a 98% success when calling and many replies, often multiples, when 
running.
There were MANY strong signals on 40 and 20 at all hours I was on, so I didn't 
do 80.
Almost all CW was good, partly thanks to computer keying, and I encountered 
maybe three poor ops, not rude, just inexperienced/unpracticed.  I like SK and 
used it about 30% of the time.  I prefer SK for FD, because one can taylor 
speed/weight style to conditions and other op's experience.  There's no reason 
to expect everyone to deal with 25 WPM from the computer.  They all did fine 
with 15 WPM from the SK, sometimes with the dahs stretched a little.
The little rudeness seen was obviously competent ops who couldn't muster the 
manners to wait their turn.
A couple times I had to ignore them several times to ever get my weaker 
station's exchange!  I expect they are the same people who call DX stations 
when the DX is trying to reply to someone else.  Owning a big station and 
expensive gear IS NOT empowerment to trounce everyone in your way!
All in all, one could hardly ask for better conditions and operation.  Most, 
NOT ALL, people who go to the trouble to learn CW seem to pick up some manners 
along the way!  Of course, there are many fine SSB ops, including a couple of 
our XYLs, but the low bar to entry does cause problems!  
Perhaps we need a new mode designator, CBSSB?


One problem I see is that people have the feeling that a slipshod antenna, or a 
commercial whizbang/wonderthingy, will get them by.  It does, but with many 
fewer QSOs and more frustration than they could have with a little more work!
After 66 years of hamming, I'm becoming fonder of ladder line and window line.  
The commercial window line has saved my bacon many times and tolerates more 
poor practice than expected.  After some outdoor tuner problems, I gave up 
"proper" practice and ran my window line under our van and up through the port 
in the floor, past many other cables, to my little MFJ tuner.  It worked very 
well, as reported above.  Yes, I may have lost a dB or two, but the flat top at 
65 feet got them back!  Besides, there's no connector problem and I can make 
fine splices in one minute, using a pocket knife and a pair of pliers!  I 
expect a better BALUN would get me a dB back, but the tiny one in the MFJ seems 
to be fine at 100W.


We also had successful K3 digi which were successful, as was our HB BBQ/potluck 
dinner for 35 ops!


End of OT report.  Did YOU work W4EZ?


Wilson
W4BOH
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[Elecraft] Auxx Spkr Out K3

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

Will the K3 be harmed if a mono plug is put into the jack?
I know it's a stereo output, but don't know how it reacts to a mono plug 
shorting one channel to ground?
WL
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[Elecraft] Subject: Using the Antenna Tuner in the XPA100

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

 
Mike, I lived in New England for about 15 years and know I'm not the first to 
talk to you in direct terms. 
Used to sail in Marblehead and know just how snotty people there can be. 
If you don't find my very useful and concise advice to be "constructive" that's 
your problem. 
I'm 80 and find the judgements of others less and less interesting, especially 
when I'm trying to help them. 
It's great you have antenna tuner experience, although it's pretty irrelevant 
to your question. 
The fact that you would suggest plugging the end of a wire into an automatic 
tuner AT ALL shows a fundamental misunderstanding of both the wire and the 
tuner.  The autotune, has a two conductor output and you really have to use 
both of them!  I suggested some reading topics that would help you understand 
what you asked about, because it's unlikely anyone here will have time to start 
from scratch and explain the subject to you. 
  
You say your self that the tuner is built for unbalanced coax, so why ask about 
end fed wires? 
  
Sure, you'll always get "replies."  How much did they help?   
You'll mote that al the BALUN/UNUN talk involves USING A COAX, TWO CONDUCTOR 
line on the output of the tuner, NOT plgging a wire into it!  Sounds a lot like 
what I was trying to tell you! 
  
Sure, you sometimes get away without an earth ground.  That's because the 
shield of whatever feedline you hook up forms enough counterpoise to handle the 
current coming back to the chassis of the tuner. 
  
Don't lecture me about ham spirit.  I've likely helped as many hams as you, 
with GOOD advice. 
I've also been told, in no uncertain terms, that my question really showed that 
I had reading to do. 
  
Yes, I meant to be a little short but I did not mean to be offensive. 
If you can't deal with the answer, simply ignore it. 
If you think people talking to you about long runs of coax and various coupling 
means answers your question about end fed wire in your tuner, there's nothing I 
can do. 
Did you actually think about any of the issues I raised? 
  
My time is very short, because of care I have to give to others, and you are 
lucky to receive any of it, since I have my own problems to solve. 
This note constitutes the LAST of it that you will receive and I promise the 
esteemed members of the list that I'm off the subject. 
If you want to destroy a valuable piece of equipment, go for it! 
WL  
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Birdies

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

Thanks, Wayne. 
I'm glad they are normal. 
They have never caused a problem. 
WL 
    

-Original Message-

  
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[Elecraft] Birdies

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

I've meant  for years to ask about the birdies I hear from my K3. 
At many frequencies across HF, I hear obviously internally generated birdies. 
They are very narrow and quite strong. 
I've noticed recently that I can cause them to occur by setting the high and 
low ends of the filter to overlap (zero or negative bandwidth), but there are 
still come heard with normal settings. 
I see this regularly, on two K3, so feel it must be something experts know 
about? 
Thanks, 
WL 
 
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[Elecraft] Com Port Problems

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

Please read my rant about Ham Qualifications and Technology. 
We are at the mercy of MANY programmers and "software engineers." 
The operating system people have no resistance to making things steadily more 
obscure and complicated. 
They don't know or care what the programmers of our many programs are doing and 
have little incentive to find out. 
The programmers typically have only a nodding acquaintance with what the 
Operating System really does and don't have time/ability to find out. 
WE are way out on a thin limb that gets more and more likely to break or sag 
down to the ground. 
All the people mentioned above are whittling away at the limb, each 
contributing to its weakness/impending breakage, and none have much incentive 
to help US. 
I really hope you find it and I guarantee, if you do, there will be a gotcha 
that someone will tell you should have seen and that will make you feel 
inadequate!  In this area, we are all inadequate! 
I know this doesn't help.  It's meant as sympathy. 
I have been building and using computers since the 50s, when I helped build one 
that used relays and I still have NO interest in software except to say what it 
should do, at which I've been pretty successful. 
Good luck and remember, there are knobs on the radio and they will probably 
work for you, since the software in the radio has likely had a few years to get 
sorted out and the worst bugs found. 
WL
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[Elecraft] Using the Antenna Tuner in the XPA100

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

This is so far off the wall it can't be answered...there is no answer. 
Please read my rant on Ham Qualifications. 
Then ask yourself why the tuner might have a two wire output connection. 
Then read about what impedance is. 
Then read about what the impedance at the end of your wire might be. 
The answer is that it can be too high for your tuner or too low and anywhere in 
between. 
Then read about matching networks and what they do. 
Then read about how the end fed wire needs to be used with a ground of some 
kind. 
You'll soon see, if you do the above, that what you propose is a recipe for 
getting an RF burn, confusing your internet modem and phone system, or even 
damaging your radio or tuner. 
  
The real best answer is to get a manual tuner, connect the antenna AND A GROUND 
(rod) and learn to use it. 
Yes, the auto tuner "can" work, given a ground, but it pretty surely won't work 
on all bands. 
The end of the antenna and the tuner "should" be well up above your radio, like 
at the top of a window, and connected back to your station with coax. 
  
Someone here may have time to explain all of the above to you, but it's a tall 
order. 
WL 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Strong Signals FD

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

Thanks, Wayne, I figured as much, clever, as usual! 
I think it was the SSB station, because the notice sppeared for only a second, 
if that. 
The surprising part is that tuning was disabled during the strong signal 
period. 
Our previous FDs (two clubs) have been QRP for years, so it couldn't happen. 
Our CW did very well,#2, but we wanted the SSB people to have more fun this 
time, which they did. 
We had 4xK3, 1xK3s, and one I never saw.   
I had digi hash from a nearby station.  Should have given them my updated 
(synth) unit, but forgot. 
Thanks, 
WL 
    

-Original Message-

From: Wayne 
To: Wilson 
Cc: Elecraft 
Date: Wednesday, 29 June 2022 7:27 PM GMT
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Strong Signals FD

Hi Wilson, 

The K3 looks for "reverse power" coming back into the antenna jacks in receive 
mode. This is possible if there's a nearby transmitter, typically when the 
antennas are in each other's near field. On 40 m this could happen even at 
100'. 

If reverse power becomes excessive, the K3 will cut off RF input to the 
receiver for some period of time and display the Strong Signal message. When 
the reverse power condition disappears, operation returns to normal. 

The solution is to separate the antennas more or reduce power. 

73, 
Wayne 
N6KR 



> On Jun 29, 2022, at 10:25 AM, Wilson Lamb via Elecraft 
>  wrote: 
> 
> 
> There's always something new... 
> Our clubs went to 100W this year, after being leaders in QRP for some years, 
> up to #2. 
> We wanted new hams and the SSB crowd to have more fun. 
> I operated CW with one of my two K3, which worked fine, as usual. 
> But I experienced something never seen before. There was a 40m SSB station 
> not far from me, with a dipole about 45 degrees and 100 feet away. 
> I would occasionally get "Strong Signal" on my display, accompanied by very 
> brief interruptions to my anility to change frequency. I'd start turning the 
> knob and the VFO would take 200-500 mS (guess) to respond. 
> I also noticed the same thing re keying. Sometimes the first dit or dah would 
> be dropped when I started sending! 
> Is this normal, common? 
> It didn't cause a problem and there was no lingering effect. 
> WL 
> 
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[Elecraft] Strong Signals FD

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

There's always something new... 
Our clubs went to 100W  this year, after being leaders in QRP for some years, 
up to #2. 
We wanted new hams and the SSB crowd to have more fun. 
I operated CW with one of my two K3, which worked fine, as usual. 
But I experienced something never seen before.  There was a 40m SSB station not 
far from me, with a dipole about 45 degrees and 100 feet away. 
I would occasionally get "Strong Signal" on my display, accompanied by very 
brief interruptions to my anility to change frequency.  I'd start turning the 
knob and the VFO would take 200-500 mS (guess) to respond. 
I also noticed the same thing re keying.  Sometimes the first dit or dah would 
be dropped when I started sending! 
Is this normal, common?   
It didn't cause a problem and there was no lingering effect. 
WL 
 
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[Elecraft] Ham Qualifications, Customer Service

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

I wish this board could stay technical. 
Maybe we should have another one for service issues and rants? 
Ham qualifications were mentioned in the signal quality discussion. 
Someone should man up and state the obvious:  
  
Radios have become appliances that only a tiny minority could work on in any 
competent way and even then they would need pretty spiffy test equipment.  I am 
a lifelong hacker and 65 year call holder, with radar, BC, and radio experience 
of all sorts, but I have near zero interest in repairing my old K3.  I might 
look for a loose connection, but I've never opened either of my two, bought 
used. 
  
The "qualifications" we claim to have are a farce.  People with NO IDEA about 
anything technical can memorize enough answers to get by the test.  No offense, 
but this covers about 90% of new licensees.  But maybe it doesn't matter.  We 
need the numbers for political reasons and those who know enough, or want to 
learn enough, to do something technical can ignore the others.  Of course we 
can choose to help some of the others in the rare instance when they actually 
want to learn something.  Mostly they want someone to set up their appliance so 
they can pretend to be hams and press the button.  Or go over and put up an 
antenna or two for them. 
  
I feel for the "company" but, for whatever reason, they have abandoned the 
owners of very expensive equipment they indicated they would maintain and 
support.  They are no more, or less, culpable than the big guys.  And "we" 
share the blame.  Anyone who expects a piece of advanced  techie equipment, 
with 100 or so man-years of programming and a handfull of specialized ICs in it 
to have a long (decade+) commercial life is a dreamer.  I just threw away an 
expensive wall oven because the SECOND $350 control board failed and I wasn't 
about to buy a third one!  If you think Elecraft is bad, just try dealing with 
Whirlpool!  I bought a GE (control board $75) with half the bells and whistles 
and it cooks fine.  If I could, I'd buy one with a knob!  Front load washers 
are thrown away regularly because of door gasket leaks.  FYI, Speed Queen makes 
a fine top loader with mechanical timer and NO SCREEN or flashing numbers! 
  
What can we do?  Adjust our expectations!  DON'T buy a K4 if you can't afford 
to throw it away in a few years.  It's probably less maintainable than the K3 
and Elecraft is bleeding the talent and excitement that served them so well in 
the beginning.  Who of us believes there will suddenly appear a supply of 
brilliant, loyal, YOUNG engineers and programmers to keep the tradition alive.  
If you want to keep your rig going for decades, get a Heathkit, Drake, or 
Collins.  They do most of what a K- does and you already have most of the parts 
to fix them, or one of your friends does, or Mouser does!  Otherwise, buy an 
FT-450 and dump it the same way you dumped your digi tv converter!  The labor 
to fix it would cost more than a new one anyway.  Mass production and 
specialized hardware have done a great job of giving us marvelous stuff, at the 
price of maintainability and support.  Who has had their TV repaired lately?  
Would anyone like to buy an IC-746?  All it needs is a display?  Or one of 
those Yaesus that just needs a microprocessor or two? 
  
Me?  I am as thrilled to work NY with a 2W Millen Variarm VFO (1941) as I am to 
work China with my K3, actually more so because I spent a day or so  making the 
Variarm work, realizing full well that a day of reasonably competent service 
would cost enough to buy an FT-450, or some other low end rig.  
  
Writing checks and struggling with menus produces NO intellectual reward and 
often leads to frustration! 
  
OK, I feel better, like after a nice trip to  the Field Day Porta Potty, so  
let the flames begin.  Better yet, if you want to discuss your SW-3, Wasp, 
Comet Pro, RME-70, SX-16, SB-401, HT-9, or Gonset Communicator, just let me 
know.  And remember, you'll be old someday too.  I'll keep trying to figure out 
receiving antenna assignment on the K3... 
  
Wilson 
K4OGP (1957), W4BOH (Dad 1932, me 1987) 
 
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[Elecraft] D-104 Mic Element Replacement

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

Thanks for the references. 
Some of the elements from the harmonica place are interesting, but expensive.  
A good source, if they are OK. 
Emboldened by  D-104 Element Repair - Mike Harrison (smugmug.com) I tore into 
one and found the diaphragm glue gone and the linkage between the diaphragm and 
element loose on both ends. 
The repair is easy and preliminary indications are it's working OK. 
I don't know if it's a crystal or ceramic element, but it's hot, so I expect 
ceramic. 
I'd bet quite a few cartridges have been replaced because of these problems! 
Wilson
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[Elecraft] D-104 Element Replacement

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

No actual replacement found so far, but several nice dynamic/electret 
conversions. 
Encouraged by this posting on QRZ, D-104 Element Repair - Mike Harrison 
(smugmug.com), I decided there was nothing to lose by looking inside. 
It's actually no problem at all and I found multiple problems: linkage between 
diaphragm and element loose at both ends, diaphragm perimeter glue completely 
gone, wooly stuff between screen and diaphragm completely gone. 
I did a very quick repair, attaching the linkage to the element with beeswax 
and the diaphragm to the linkage with rubber cement. 
Preliminary testing on the air indicates the response is very similar to that 
of a believed good unit, so I'm declaring conditional victory until better 
tests are available. 
SO, the moral;  You may not need an element at all, if you are willing to fool 
around a while and repair what's wrong! 
Not like I had nothing to do, but it's nice to get to the bottom of something. 
WL 
 
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[Elecraft] D-104 Mic Element Replacement

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

OK, discriminating operators, does anyone know of a good replacement D-104 
element. 
Yes, I have been on the web and see dynamic and electret replacements.  My uses 
don't involve electret empowered radios. 
I also see statements that all the ceramic replacements have been sold, but I 
hold out hope. 
Does anyone know of a good ceramic element? 
Does anyone know if the dynamic/transformer replacement is near the same 
sensitivity as the original crystal? 
I have three D-104, one of which was my dad's, from the 540s.  It's lost its 
midrange. 
Thanks, 
Wilson 
W4BOH 
 
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[Elecraft] Seeking input on 3rd-party microphones used with our transceivers

[Wilson Lamb via Elecraft]

I use a 35 year old mic from my TS-450 Kenwood.   
It has a better feel than the Elecraft mic and I think it sounds better. 
Wilson 
W4BOH 
 
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[Elecraft] Ham Radio Near HV Power Lines

[Wilson Lamb]

The imagination runs wild...shunt feed a power pylon on 160m!
Midnight climb?
Bribery of lineman.
Inconspicuous coupling box in the bushes or underground.
Near invisible  wire going up to feed point.
Couple some RF to the power lines?
How long would the coax be?
An idle mind is the devil's workshop!
WL
 
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[Elecraft] Drafting

[Wilson Lamb]

"I never took a drafting class nor anything like it in high school, yet its
absence never hurt me professionally. Making a straight line is not a skill
required of a lawyer." 
  
This cries out for several clever and potentially offensive responses, but it's 
a new day and I'm not going to post them. 
Besides, the poster may be a nice guy, making them unfair. 
Most everyone will know them anyway, so I'll just say  
73, 
WL 
    

-Original Message-

From: elecraft-request 
To: elecraft 
Date: Sunday, 25 April 2021 5:24 PM EDT
Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 204, Issue 17

Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..." 


Today's Topics: 

1. K2 For Sale (Robie Elms) 
2. Re: OT: High school drafting class, ~1975 (Dave Sublette) 
3. Need a tuning knob for K2 (Frank Krozel) 
4. XV432 (Ken Roberson) 
5. OT: High school drafting class, (eda...@aya.yale.edu) 
6. Speaker upgrade (Bob McGraw) 
7. Re: Need a tuning knob for K2 (Don Wilhelm) 
8. Re: Need a tuning knob for K2 (Frank Krozel) 
9. Re: Need a tuning knob for K2 (Don Wilhelm) 
10. Re: Need a tuning knob for K2 (Frank Krozel) 
11. Re: OT: High school drafting class, (Hank) 
12. Re: OT: High school drafting class, (Louandzip) 
13. Re: OT: High school drafting class, (Grant Youngman) 
14. Re: K3/KPA500 question (Bob Wilson, N6TV) 
15. MC-43S Mic for K2 (Aaron K5ATG) 
16. Re: MC-43S Mic for K2 (Julia Tuttle) 
17. FS - unbuilt KAF2 (Tom Ewing) 
18. Re: OT: High school drafting class, ~1975 (Chris R. NW6V) 
19. Re: OT: High school drafting class, (Jim Brown) 
20. Kenwood MC - 43S mic for K2 (Aaron K5ATG) 
21. Re: OT: High school drafting class, (Hal Massey) 
22. K3/KPA500 question (Andy Durbin) 
23. Re: K3/KPA500 question (Lou) 
24. Re: OT: High school drafting class, (MIKE ZANE) 


-- 

Message: 1 
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2021 06:43:00 -0500 
From: Robie Elms  
To: Elecraft Mail List  
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 For Sale 
Message-ID: 
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" 

Here's the info on the K2 

I built it in 2007, Serial No 61XX. It is the 15 w version and includes 
the following: 


- KSB2 SSB Adapter 
 
- KNB2 High Performance Noise Blanker 
 
- K160M 160M and 2nd RX Port 
 
- KIO2 RS-232 Interface and Aux I/0 
 
- KAT2 Automatic Antenna Tuner 
 
- KBT2 Battery 
 

I have used it extensively for several years, but it is in good condition. 
The K2's battery is a SLA unit and my battery became exhausted several 
years ago so it is not included. A new battery can be purchased from 
Elecraft or other sources and installed. I don't recommend replacing it as 
a LiFePO is a much better choice today. 

The K2 is wired for an Icom microphone. 

I purchased a KX3 about 3 yrs ago and since then the K2 has not seen much 
use. 

I'm asking $850 for the package including all manuals, documentation & 
tools. 

Payment Via PayPal 

Please contact me @ rule...@gmail.com if interested. 

Robie - AJ4F 


-- 

Message: 2 
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2021 08:45:49 -0400 
From: Dave Sublette  
To: Elecraft Discussion List  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: High school drafting class, ~1975 
Message-ID: 
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" 

To clarify, my Dad was not a ham. But he did teach me and the rest of the 
scouts the code. He was my first scoutmaster. When I joined the Navy at 
age 19, he got interested and got his novice ticket as a surprise. I was 
at K6NCG, going to ET'A' school on Treasure Island. He called me on the 
phone, which was a big deal long distance from Indiana to California in 
1962. We met on the 40M Novice band and I was his first QSO. He refused 
to work anyone else until he worked me. When he died in 1999, I found the 
QSL I had sent him from K6NCG, hanging on his bedroom wall. He never got 
his general. 

As I said before, memories are priceless. 

73, 

Dave, K4TO 

On Sat, Apr 24, 2021 at 8:29 AM Dave Sublette  wrote: 

> My relationship with drafting class goes back to before I was born. My 
> Dad, born in 1918, took drafting class in 1936. After he died, I found a 
> pen and ink drawing of his from that class. It was a schematic of two 
> different crystal sets. 

[Elecraft] Cheap Keyer Paddle

[Wilson Lamb]

Seems a perfect time to revive ham tradition and make one.
Do you have any tools, soldering iron?
Hacksaw blade comes to mind, maybe a couple of quarters for pads, screws for 
contacts?
I know you can Google:  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sps6gsqwzws

I love the paper clamp idea!  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be=RtEYI4aF7j4=desktop

WL
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[Elecraft] Filter Question

[Wilson Lamb]

Would someone please explain the relationship between our plug in filters (K3) 
and the variable filter response provided by our width control.
As I understand the situation, the plug in filters we buy are roofing filters, 
used to prevent intermod from strong signals outside the pass band.
Is there more to it?
If there were no other signals, would the width control work the same with and 
without the plug in filters?
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 196, Issue 17

[Wilson Lamb]

I have 2X K3, but am not even qualified to to talk about them.
I CAN say, without reservation, that our antennae are NOT our primary danger 
points, at least for those of us with modest (50' and under) installations.
In 65 years of operating all sorts of stuff, I have NEVER seen lightning damage 
due to antenna pickup.
I have seen LOTS of damage level stuff come in on phone lines, however!
Most thunderstorms in our area create firecracker discharges in my phone demarc 
box, which is just across the basement from my operating area.
They scare me, especially when they occur when I'm disconnecting my 
phones/modem, which are connected to the outside world with alligator clips.
I have lost multiple phones and modems to this stuff, when it exceeds the 
impressive levels the demarc can handle, but never anything to do with radio.
This is a great fringe benefit of WIFI.  The stuff we used to lose through 
ethernet connections is now airgapped from the modem.
Pulling the plug is almost foolproof protection.
I don't connect computers to radios, so there's an airgap already in place.
When I see the storm coming, I disconnect all radios from their antennae AND 
power supplies.
Now, I KNOW lots of people have suffered from antenna pickup, but I'm betting 
power/phone lines have produced far more incidents.
Trouble is, if you get a real hit on an antenna, all bets are off and my 
experience doesn't matter at all!
If you set up to run from a battery, you can achieve considerable isolation, 
especially if you unplug the charger before storms come.
It would be interesting to hear stories of damaging events caused by phone line 
transients coming into houses.
WL
- elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to
>   elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>   http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>   elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>   elecraft-ow...@mailman.qth.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>1. General Purpose Outputs on KX2 (Ken Simmons)
>2. Re: K4 Questions (Wayne Burdick)
>3. Re: K4 Questions (Barry LaZar)
>4. KRX3A Sync AM Mode K3S not working? (w4sc)
>5. Re: Lightning Season, disconnect COMPUTER etc. (Jim Brown)
>6. Re: K4 Questions (Grant Youngman)
>7. Re: K4 Questions (Barry LaZar)
>8. Re: Lightning Season, disconnect COMPUTER etc. (David Christ)
>9. Re: Lightning Season, disconnect COMPUTER etc. (Jim Brown)
>   10. Re: Elecraft K3 Problem (Mike K8CN)
>   11. S Meter RX numbers? (M1KTA)
>   12. KX3/KXPA connection (john daws)
>   13. K3 boards (NE9U - Scott Jasper)
>   14. There is a new release of Win4K3Suite (Tom)
>   15. Re: S Meter RX numbers? (Wayne Burdick)
>   16. For sale K3 with some K3S upgrades (w4sc)
>   17. Re: K3 boards (Eric Swartz)
>   18. Re: Lightning Season, disconnect COMPUTER etc. (Eric Swartz)
>   19. Re: K3 boards (N4ZR)
>   20. Elecraft CW Net Announcement (kevinr)
>   21. Re: Elecraft CW Net Announcement (Bill Frantz)
>   22. Re: K3 boards (NE9U - Scott Jasper)
>   23. KX3, PX3, 30A switching supply + accessories for sale.
>   (Aubrey Mason)
>   24. Bracket KPA3A E100719 (w4sc)
>   25. NJQRP Skeeter Hunt - What's next? (Larry Makoski)
>   26. Elecraft 20 Meter SSB Net - Sunday August 16, 2020
>   (Jim White NC0JW)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 15:03:31 +
> From: Ken Simmons 
> To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
> Subject: [Elecraft] General Purpose Outputs on KX2
> Message-ID:
>   
> 
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Is anyone using the General Purpose Outputs on the KX2 that comes with the 
> KXIO2 board? It says they are user programmable, but to what extent?
> 
> Thanks.
> Ken
> WR7D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 08:22:32 -0700
> From: Wayne Burdick 
> To: barrylaz...@gmail.com
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 Questions
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> Yes, IQ data will be available. 
> 
> Wayne 
> N6KR
> 
> 
> elecraft.com
> 
> > On Aug 11, 2020, at 5:52 PM, Barry LaZar  wrote:
> > 
> > ?I just saw the presentation Eric gave on the K4. It is really impressive. 
> > However, I've never been able to get the answer to a few questions. First, 
> > is the pan presentation fixed as to frequency span or can the frequency 
> > span be adjusted; I typically use 25-50 KHz on CW or less on data modes. 
> > Next can the xvter IF out be used as the IF out on the K4D? Or, is the I 
> > available for use o0n applications like CW Skimmer; This requires a MME 
> > format.
> > 
> > 

[Elecraft] CWT Calibration

[Wilson Lamb]

Not an operating question.
Didn't use a counter...was actually trying an old BC-221 frequency meter and 
wanted a quick indicator of drift.
I made my estimate using the Pitch setting...changing pitch and retuning.
Also moved signal and retuned to return CWT to middle, then read freq increment 
from display.
WL
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[Elecraft] CWT Calibration

[Wilson Lamb]

I have deduced that the bars in the CWT display are 25 Hz apart.
Does anyone know if that's right?
WL
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Re: [Elecraft] Voltage Drop

[Wilson Lamb]

Truth be told, I don't think so.
I use almost entirely low end consumer stuff, mostly because I blow up at least 
a meter a year two, when I put the 10A scale across a storage battery,
The 750VDC scale across 2KV, or 400V to the low Ohms scale.  When it's a free 
harbor Freight meter, I don't lose any sleep!
WL


- Harlan Sherriff  wrote:
> You have trouble with Fluke DMM’s? 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Jun 30, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Wilson Lamb  wrote:
> > 
> > Are we going to talk about RF getting into DMMs?
> > The DMMs I've used can't be used on tractors or under the hood of cars not 
> > even on the battery, because of ignition noise.
> > There's a lot to be said for old school needle meters!
> > WL
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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> > 
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
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> > Message delivered to hsherr...@reagan.com 
> 

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[Elecraft] Voltage Drop

[Wilson Lamb]

Are we going to talk about RF getting into DMMs?
The DMMs I've used can't be used on tractors or under the hood of cars not even 
on the battery, because of ignition noise.
There's a lot to be said for old school needle meters!
WL
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[Elecraft] Motorboat

[Wilson Lamb]

Connect ground to engine/rudder.
Use tallest possible mast, with capacitive hat if shorter than 1/4 wavelength.
Tune antenna to resonance and match with a tuner.
WL


--
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[Elecraft] K3 at Low Voltage

[Wilson Lamb]

Did you notice the 10-20 cars sitting around the FD site, each with a good 
battery therein?
If you can find them, laptop supplies made for 12V car use will raise 
efficiency some.
100W of solar will carry a station several hours Saturday afternoon and kick in 
again for several hours Sunday, a big help.
WL
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[Elecraft] Upper Limit of KPA-500

[Wilson Lamb]

I obviously have time on my hands.
I have two K3, but they were bought used.  Am I qualified to be on the list?
One of them is the one originally reviewed by QST.
The concern with KPA-500 temperature and noise is amusing, given that the 
hardware is so expensive.
 For amps, I run 4-125As and 4-400As in several configurations, with most of 
the tubes at least 50 years old.
With either a pair of 125s or a single 400, I can run a KW, key down CW, all 
day.
The electric stove element I use for a dummy load gives off a pleasant warmth 
in winter.
The blowers are scrounged from microwave ovens, cost a few minutes of fun 
destruction.  Not much noise.
All the other components are legacies dating back to my childhood or collected 
through swaps or rescues from sheds and garages.
If I didn't have something to build, fix, or test I'd quit hamming, since 
watching for alarm lights on a black box is even less fun than watching reruns 
of Blue Bloods!
I do have one commercial amp, a Loudenboomer (1960?), from before the company 
was bought by Hallicrafters.  3-400Z tube, seems to be bulletproof.
73,
Wilson
W4BOH

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[Elecraft] A broken K3

[Wilson Lamb]

Why wouldn't you change  the synth?
I wouldn't even think of troubleshooting such a complicated, but free, board!
A bad one will obviously shut down both RX and TX!
WL
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[Elecraft] Looking for Li-ion battery packs in VK

[Wilson Lamb]

This probably isn't what's wanted, but might appeal to the hard core DIY ham.
My son gets piles of dead laptop batteries from a computer shop.
Most of the 18650 cells are quite good.
He screens for capacity and discards any under 2Ahr capacity.
He made a bulk charger for the individual cells, using cheaper than dirt single 
cell chargers and cell holders from Ebay.
I think it does 20 at a time, and now has dozens ready to work.
He buys hardware on Ebay that can be used to make up packs of any configuration.
Subsequent charging can be done by wiring a pigtail to connect the same 
chargers to the cells in the pack.
Obviously this requires some bench work, but once set up it's pretty efficient.

There's plenty of RC model activity in VK.
Airplane packs are available in a wide range of voltage and current capability, 
as are chargers.
This is likely the best commercial source.

Wilson
W4BOH
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[Elecraft] Amp Failure, Efficiency

[Wilson Lamb]

It's heat that stresses the transistors, not efficiency.
The numbers show more dissipation with increasing power level.
WL
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[Elecraft] Battery Charger for Small Solar Power Syatem

[Wilson Lamb]

Start simple...car battery, or borrow from your lawn tractor.
Small charge controller selected for min RFI.
If the kid can concentrate on a job, salvage 18650 cells from old laptop 
batteries and build packs of whatever size you need.
"Dead laptop batteries usually have just a couple of bad cells and some shops 
will give/sell them cheap.
Ebay has the plastic hardware for assembling packs without duct tape.
Get single cell chargers from ebay for initial conditioning.
There's a lot of potential learning here!
73,
Wilson
W4BOH
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[Elecraft] Installing a Sub Receiver

[Wilson Lamb]

It seems the OP has it covered, but, if one isn't ready to spend on the new 
synth, one can get an old synth for next to nothing and run with two old ones.
The upgrade isn't a big deal for most ops.
WL
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[Elecraft] Replaced Module Value

[Wilson Lamb]

I bought a used K3 (works fine) with updated synth and transverter interface.
I was politely told that the interface module was worth the cost of postage.
Are the original synths worth anything?
Wilson
W4BOH
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