[Elecraft] K1EL wnk mini

[brianchapnick]

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Re: [Elecraft] what tripod to use?

[brianchapnick]

The Buddipole Tripod with mast is quite substantial and will get your antenna 
up higher than any photographic tripod. In windy situations you will want to 
guy it or at least put a weight at the base.

I've done this a few times with the AX1.

For a quick mount the Buddipole bracket with the adapter is a perfect fit for 
the AX1 and may work for your Comet.

Brian VE3GMZ 




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  Original Message  


From: fra...@pwpconsult.com
Sent: July 30, 2020 8:37 p.m.
To: wd8oep2...@sbcglobal.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] what tripod to use?


Welcome to the list Harry

Given that your antenna isn't an Elecraft product, you are kind
of on your own. Does Comet have a tripod adapter? Elecraft has a
tripod adapter for its portable antenna, the AX1.
 Will
that adapter work for your use?

If that adapter won't work, you can build an adapter. The
standard tripod thread is 1/4" x 20. You should be able to get
some nuts of that size and glue them to the necessary bracket to
attach the adapter to your antenna. Or you can get a drill and
tap and tap it yourself. There are many other choices and ways
to proceed.

As to the tripod, a lot depends on what you intend to do. If you
are doing SOTA activations, you probably want a very light
weight tripod for backpacking. If you can stand something
heavier, there are photographic tripods in a bewildering array
of models.

I will also note that photographic light stands also have 1/4" x
20 threads and can be used as well. They aren't as useful on
uneven ground as a tripod, but they go up higher.

These things are available at a wide range of prices. Amazon and
eBay are likely to have cheap choices.

73 Bill AE6JV

On 7/30/20 at 6:04 PM, wd8oep2...@sbcglobal.net (Harry Brown) wrote:

>I'm new here.
>
>I have a kx3, and I have the Comet hfj350M telescopic antenna, which works 
>from 80 down to 6 meters.
>
>I need to put it on a tripod, and then I can get the tripod adapter from 
>Elecraft.
>
>Can someone, please tell me which tripod to get?
>
>If possible, I'd like it to be heavy enough to withstand high
>winds, because we have those kind of winds on the east coast of Michigan.
---
Bill Frantz    | When an old person dies, a   | Periwinkle
(408)348-7900  | library burns. - Joe McGawon | 150
Rivermead Rd #235
www.pwpconsult.com | Irish Ethnographer   |
Peterborough, NH 03458

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 power cable polarity?

[brianchapnick]

You guys should be on the air this weekend. Ìts Field Day! Just worked a kh6 
with 4 watts and an EFHWD up in a portable situation operating 1BB. Bands are 
busy. Take advantage.

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: donw...@embarqmail.com
Sent: June 28, 2020 12:02 a.m.
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Reply to: donw...@embarqmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 power cable polarity?


For Elecraft gear, the shell is always V- (ground).
Other gear may be different.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/27/2020 8:08 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On 6/27/2020 2:22 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>> Measure which wire goes to the outside shell of the connector, that’s
>> ground.
>
> Not always -- I have at least one consumer product and one piece of pro
> test gear that has V+ to the outside of the connector.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 running PSK31

[brianchapnick]

Must be missing something. I really like psk but seems there aren't many psk 
sigs on the band. Everyone has jumped to FT8. What are u Using? I run dm780 
with HRD and a signal link. It is quite easy once you figure out how to set 
your level. You don't need signal link. Ive done it without the interface but 
with signal link its easier.

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: ve...@bell.net
Sent: May 15, 2020 12:08 a.m.
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 running PSK31


I've spent a couple of hours this evening trying to figure out
how to setup the KX3 for PSK31.

Following the manual numerous times with out any success.

Is there a secret to running the KX3 in PSK31 mode or am I
missing something?

Bert VE3NR


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/KX2 remote for FD

[brianchapnick]

How do you manage to keep a log at the same time?

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: n...@elecraft.com
Sent: May 14, 2020 3:05 p.m.
To: donw...@embarqmail.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3/KX2 remote for FD


Thanks for the memory, Don.

FD has always been a contest to me--more fun than any other. I nearly always 
operate QRP/portable, sometimes entirely hand-held (with the KX2), dragging a 
counterpoise wire for miles, up and down hills. (Who needs a gym membership?)

I was 14 at my first FD. I learned some hard lessons about how *not* to put a 
PL259 connector on RG8. A grizzled veteran laughed at my mess, then showed me 
The Way.

Wayne
N6KR



> On May 14, 2020, at 11:46 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>
> Yes Wayne, it was one of the greatest Field Days of all.  You could track the 
> course of sunlight on 10 meters (which went dead at sundown), and there was a 
> lot of activity.
> I was 17 in 1957, and had been licensed since '55
>
> While the ARRL did not list it as a contest, it was regarded as a contest by 
> most all operators - the ARRL also posted the high scorers at the top of each 
> category.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 5/14/2020 2:20 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>> Jim,
>> I bet FD in 1957 was a real hoot (at the record peak of the sunspot cycle).
>> (FWIW, I was born in '57, which explains a lot.)
>> Wayne
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Re: [Elecraft] Establishing A New Station

[brianchapnick]

And how does the AX1 perform from inside your Apartment? What floor are you on?

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: May 13, 2020 4:14 p.m.
To: kg9hfr...@gmail.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Reply to: k7...@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Establishing A New Station


Hi all,
I live in a senior apartment. There is no balcony so my best is the Elecraft 
AX1 with the extra 40 mtr coil right next to the window. No fiddling just 
assemble.Set the dip switch for the band and you are on the air. 10 min max and 
if you change freq retune the ATU.

73Jim Hk7sss
In a message dated 5/13/2020 12:59:29 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
kg9hfr...@gmail.com writes:

Hmm not a a permanent situation but I tried for years now to put up a small 
antenna, end fed whip etc when at my condo.  I ended up with an AlexLoop and 
never looked back.  Best contact was on 20 meters, 2,000 miles on 2 watts, SSB 
on 17 meters.

-73-  Frank    KG9H
kg9hfr...@gmail.com




> On May 13, 2020, at 2:42 PM, brianchapn...@rogers.com wrote:
>
> Your mention of apartment living perked my interest as I will be moving into 
> a condo on the 34th floor in a few months. I'll have a beautiful unobstructed 
> view. An antenna has been on my mind. I don't like the idea of dropping a 
> wire from the balcony. The wind could cause trouble. Im thinking of a loop. 
> I've had good luck with them. Any thoughts?
>
> Brian VE3GMZ

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Re: [Elecraft] Establishing A New Station

[brianchapnick]

Your mention of apartment living perked my interest as I will be moving into a 
condo on the 34th floor in a few months. I'll have a beautiful unobstructed 
view. An antenna has been on my mind. I don't like the idea of dropping a wire 
from the balcony. The wind could cause trouble. Im thinking of a loop. I've had 
good luck with them. Any thoughts?

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: May 13, 2020 9:33 a.m.
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Reply to: tso...@icloud.com
Subject: [Elecraft] Establishing A New Station


Good Morning Don,

> Tommy,
>
> The KX2, KX3, and K3 are all fine radios for CW - and data modes and SSB
> as well.
>
> Do you want 100 watts - then choose the K3 (or K3S).  You can also add
> the P3 for a panadapter display.
I would, at some time, like to add the panadapter display.
>
> Do you want something small that you can tote in a backpack, then the
> KX2 is the obvious choice.  You can use it at home with the KXPA100 for
> a 100 watt home station.
>
> Do you want something that is small enough for 'picnic table portable’,
Yes, I need something that is picnic table portable.  There is absolutely no 
room to set up a station in this RV.
>
> but has more buttons and up-front controls than the KX2, then choose the
> KX3.  It also can serve as a 100 watt home station with the addition of
> the KXPA100 and can also be used with the PX3 for a panadapter display.
>
> If you are planning portable work, the internal tuner is a must.
Yes, the tuner is a must. 
I ordered a fiberglass mast and enough parts to assemble a 40meter inverted V 
and will place a permanent mount in the ground to support this configuration.  
I plan on being able to set-up/take down the pole/antenna easily whenever I 
want to get on the air.  Of course it’ll stay up most all the time when I’m in 
residence here.
> At the home station, if you do not have resonant antennas,
I used to enjoy tuning antennas to a fairly specific frequency so will try to 
do that with this one too.
> then you
> should have the internal tuner in the K3/K3S or the KXPA100.
>
> Those are the basics that I can convey, the choice is yours to make
> depending on your station aspirations.
> Try not to base your decision on price alone
That is good advice - I went to our credit union and after figuring out the 
cost of a complete station took out a share backed loan to get the best 
interest and be a forced saving account of sorts because of paying it off.  
Most always do this when making outlandish purchases.
> - decide what you want and
> then proceed from there.
>
> I have the K3 with the P3. KX3 with the PX3 and KXPA100 as well as the
> KX2.  So I can say that they are all good, but for the home station, I
> usually go with the K3 with the KX3/PX3 and KXPA100 (with KXAT100) as an
> alternate.  The KX2 is reserved for portable operation, and I use it
> rarely since I no longer go on hiking ventures.
The KX2 is the logical choice in this situation mostly because when back in my 
home in the 17th floor apartment in a 400 person retirement facility I’m not 
sure I will be able to operate.  If I do it will be most likely be with an end 
weighted wire suspended off a balcony - it’s a hundred feet or so to the 
ground.  So my permanent home will be the portable place and this country RV 
will be the more permanent place - especially until this coronavirus epidemic 
is better controlled.
That virus delights in getting into large facilities housing the older more 
infirm population.  There is only one case there AT THIS TIME.  I read where 
similar facilities have a large percentage of the in house population testing 
positive.
Anyway, so much for the logical choice, maybe having more buttons and knobs to 
fiddle with would add to the fun…

73, Tommy
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> End of Elecraft Digest, Vol 193, Issue 22
> *

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Re: [Elecraft] Rig forCW

[brianchapnick]

May be there are more kx3 users because the kx3 was introduced long before the 
kx2 and we kx3 users love them. The only reason to have a kx2 over a kx3 is 
size and weight, and maybe curiosity.

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: May 12, 2020 7:53 a.m.
To: tso...@icloud.com
Reply to: djwilco...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rig forCW


I have both rigs and mostly use just the basic stuff for home and camping 
CW/SSB QRP contacts so the KX2 works, BUT The KX2 isn’t much of a cost savings 
over the KX3 and the KX3 has a lot more features.  The only reason I would 
choose the KX2 again is if I was backpacking and size/weight were important.  
The KX2 was “so cute” I had to have one and ran to the booth at Dayton the next 
morning after Eric’s introductory lecture about it at FDIM to purchase #34 from 
him.  It’s a fun rig, works well, but if you can have only one get the KX3.

And as a side note the Elecraft antenna tuners, in rigs or separately can’t be 
beat.  They will tune a wet noodle if that is needed for your ham radio 
experience. They almost make you think your really lousy antenna is the 
greatest because they will tune it, but again, if the results aren’t what you 
want it’s probably a poor antenna and the tuner is making it look better than 
it is.  Make a good antenna first and then use a tuner to take the pressure off 
your finals or expand the bandwidth. 

Dave K8WPE

David J. Wilcox K8WPE’s iPad

> On May 12, 2020, at 7:37 AM, Tommy Judson via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
>
> Good Morning,  I have a simple but difficult question for the CW ops.
>
> I’m wanting to get back to ham radio and specifically CW.  Since I’m starting 
> from scratch I am looking hard at all equipment needed to get on the air.  
> I’ve ordered supplies to assemble a 40M inverted V and have been thinking the 
> best first rig I ought to order would be a KX2.  Now reading the posts on 
> this forum I see that 95% of the ops use the KX3s.
>
> Would anyone please like to educate me on these very unbalanced rig ownership 
> numbers?
>
> Thank you, Tommy2
>
>> *
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Which Paddle?

[brianchapnick]

Thanks Bert. I'll try it.

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: ve...@bell.net
Sent: May 5, 2020 12:02 a.m.
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Which Paddle?


Hi Brian,

A business card with some DeOxit5 cleaner on it, usually does the trick!
Bert VE3NR


On 5/4/2020 11:00 PM, brianchapn...@rogers.com wrote:
> So Wayne, how do you suggest cleaning the contacts? I have been slipping a 
> piece of paper between the contacts,  closing the paddle and pulling the 
> paper through. First time I've heard of the contact burnisher.
>
> Brian VE3GMZ
>
>  
>
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry Hub+ Inbox for Android
>
>
>    Original Message
>
>
> From: n...@elecraft.com
> Sent: May 4, 2020 10:43 p.m.
> To: tso...@icloud.com
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Which Paddle?
>
>
> Hi Tommy,
>
> I designed both keys, but I prefer the KXPD2. I use a KXPD2 with the KX2 
> frequently and have never had a problem. We improved the design over time.
>
> It weighs less than the KXPD3, takes up less space when packed, and is 
> shorter so when it’s used trailside, the paddle tips will be higher off the 
> ground. The adjustment tool is “docked” on the key as well so you can’t lose 
> it.
>
> (Bonus feature: if you use it outdoors often enough, it’ll gradually acquire 
> a slight amber tint that matches the LCD backlight color :)
>
> 72,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> 
> elecraft.com
>
>> On May 4, 2020, at 6:42 PM, Tommy Judson via Elecraft 
>>  wrote:
>>
>> Well, gotta make up my mind on which paddle to order along with the radio.  
>> Just checked and my CU deposited what I thought the cost of a complete 
>> station should be into my account.  These isolate in place options are 
>> dangerous, it was to easy to do this on-line.
>>
>> Not sure I want to spend it now though - preliminary buyer’s remorse?
>>
>> Think I’ll go over everything again, maybe have forgotten something.  Let's 
>> see, antenna and feed line, check; inverted V support pole, check; and 
>> radio, check (except what paddle).  Haven’t nailed down exactly what all 
>> other options might as well be purchased along with the radio either.
>>
>> That’s ok, got about a week before moving out to a nice country hill side a 
>> handful of miles out of the city limits.  Been looking forward to this for a 
>> long time and want to savor it for a while.
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Which Paddle?

[brianchapnick]

I have had the kx 3 for 5 +years. It was and is the only radio I have since 
getting back into Ham Radio after many years of inactivity. It is a wow radio 
and Elecraft support is excellent. You won't go wrong. I would add to your list 
an antenna analyzer. It will make your life alot easier. The ATU I would say is 
not an option, it is a must.  The panadapter is a  fabulous add on too, but you 
can always get that later. Get whatever key you want. You will get another no 
matter what you buy now. The forums are fabulous reservoirs of knowledge from 
experts. 

Good luck

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: May 5, 2020 12:07 a.m.
To: tso...@icloud.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Reply to: k7...@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Which Paddle?


Hi,My suggestions on options. Get the ATU, it tunes anything. If you are going 
to do SOTA, you need a battery and a charger. The KX2 internal battery is not 
cheap but it is inside the radio so you won't forget it and it is light weight. 
Mine lasts many hours. I'm not a CW operator so I can't say much but the KXPD2 
is slightly lighter and the adjustment tool is part of the paddle.
Jim HK7SSS

In a message dated 5/4/2020 6:44:32 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net writes:

Well, gotta make up my mind on which paddle to order along with the radio.  
Just checked and my CU deposited what I thought the cost of a complete station 
should be into my account.  These isolate in place options are dangerous, it 
was to easy to do this on-line.
Not sure I want to spend it now though - preliminary buyer’s remorse?
Think I’ll go over everything again, maybe have forgotten something.  Let's 
see, antenna and feed line, check; inverted V support pole, check; and radio, 
check (except what paddle).  Haven’t nailed down exactly what all other options 
might as well be purchased along with the radio either.
That’s ok, got about a week before moving out to a nice country hill side a 
handful of miles out of the city limits.  Been looking forward to this for a 
long time and want to savor it for a while.
__Elecraft mailing 
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Re: [Elecraft] Which Paddle?

[brianchapnick]

So Wayne, how do you suggest cleaning the contacts? I have been slipping a 
piece of paper between the contacts,  closing the paddle and pulling the paper 
through. First time I've heard of the contact burnisher.

Brian VE3GMZ 

 



Sent via BlackBerry Hub+ Inbox for Android


  Original Message  


From: n...@elecraft.com
Sent: May 4, 2020 10:43 p.m.
To: tso...@icloud.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Which Paddle?


Hi Tommy,

I designed both keys, but I prefer the KXPD2. I use a KXPD2 with the KX2 
frequently and have never had a problem. We improved the design over time.

It weighs less than the KXPD3, takes up less space when packed, and is shorter 
so when it’s used trailside, the paddle tips will be higher off the ground. The 
adjustment tool is “docked” on the key as well so you can’t lose it.

(Bonus feature: if you use it outdoors often enough, it’ll gradually acquire a 
slight amber tint that matches the LCD backlight color :)

72,
Wayne
N6KR


elecraft.com

> On May 4, 2020, at 6:42 PM, Tommy Judson via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
>
> Well, gotta make up my mind on which paddle to order along with the radio.  
> Just checked and my CU deposited what I thought the cost of a complete 
> station should be into my account.  These isolate in place options are 
> dangerous, it was to easy to do this on-line.
>
> Not sure I want to spend it now though - preliminary buyer’s remorse?
>
> Think I’ll go over everything again, maybe have forgotten something.  Let's 
> see, antenna and feed line, check; inverted V support pole, check; and radio, 
> check (except what paddle).  Haven’t nailed down exactly what all other 
> options might as well be purchased along with the radio either.
>
> That’s ok, got about a week before moving out to a nice country hill side a 
> handful of miles out of the city limits.  Been looking forward to this for a 
> long time and want to savor it for a while.
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] "2" or "3" Paddle

[brianchapnick]

What kind of small burnishing wand are you using?

Brian VE3GMZ 



Sent via BlackBerry Hub+ Inbox for Android


  Original Message  


From: huntin...@coastside.net
Sent: May 4, 2020 7:10 p.m.
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] "2" or "3" Paddle




I've never used the KPDX3 but I bought the KPDX2 when I got my KX2.  At first I 
was disappointed in because it wasn't consistent in feel or accuracy.  I spent 
some quality time with it carefully adjusting the play in the pins that hold 
the paddles and the spacing and now it's very usable. 

The KX2 appears to be designed for very low current through the paddle 
contacts.  If there is any corrosion at all on the stainless steel contact or 
post, keying be inconsistent. A larger gap so there is more 'swing' for the 
contact will help.  Now I use a small burnishing wand and clean the contacts 
each time I install the paddles on the KX2.  Works well.

I normally use a full-sized iambic paddle with my K3 and I've found it takes a 
minute or two to get used to the smaller finger pieces and spacing.  Not a big 
deal.

I also tried the QRPGuys single lever paddle for the KX2 for a while but went 
back to the KPDX2.  A higher quality (more expensive) single lever paddle would 
likely be better.  Still debating that with myself (see Skip's comments about 
aging fingers).

GL & 73,
Brian, K0DTJ
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Re: [Elecraft] "2" or "3" Paddle

[brianchapnick]

It's an interesting question. I've been using the 3 for a few years on my kx3. 
I'm actually considering going to a winkey and external paddle so that I am 
able to get N1MM functional. I'm actually a little frustrated with the present 
3 paddle. From a convenience point of view it is great but I have a persistent 
recurring problem of incorrect responses. Sometimes i think it may be due to 
dirty contacts and sometimes stray RF? I dont know which. I always remove the 
key after use for storing. I clean the contacts regularly. Sometimes it is a 
joy to use, and at other times not so much. Maybe this is common to all 
paddles? I'm not a heavy user or super CW op. I've posted the issue before. 

Have fun. I guess everyone eventually uses multiple keys in the same way we 
have multiple antennae.

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: May 4, 2020 3:07 p.m.
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Reply to: tso...@icloud.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] "2" or "3" Paddle


Which one?

This is something like the guy with more than one watch, he never knows what 
the time really should be.

There is so much discussion about the two paddles it seems to me they both are 
good and it really comes down to just which one an operator owns to use.  (Yes, 
read reports from owners of both but could not read a specific reason one was 
chosen over the other - in the same operating scenario.)

So where I’m coming from is I’ve never used either.  I learned on a Vibroplex 
Lightening Bug but now with the advent of electronic keyers don’t want to dig 
it out to really use.  And am wondering if it makes any difference which I get 
when ordering a new radio.  Ie, which would be the easiest to take up and use 
considering my experience.  At this time I'm thinking the “3” because it has a 
longer pivot arm - maybe the same or close to the what the bug has.  This might 
not really be all oranges though since the fore arm will most likely just 
rotate instead pushing the dash lever with finger movement along with the arm 
movement as with the bug.

Guess when I order a radio I’ll just order its specifically designated 
components - unless there is something constructive to be said by anyone?

P.S.  Someone specifically wrote the beveled paddle pads on the “2” were more 
comfortable.
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Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?

[brianchapnick]

I'm glad I asked the question. Thanks for your thoughtful replies. I'm a very 
casual QRP operator. I have used many of the digital modes,  cw, ssb and FM  
too, but certainly not with the sophistication you suggest. There appears to be 
a lot more to it than I thought. Certainly food for thought.
Again, thanks.

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: a.dur...@msn.com
Sent: April 5, 2020 1:05 p.m.
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?


"With high power is it your practice to start with lower levels and work your 
way up or do you go for broke from the start?"

For FT8 I make the initial call with the power that I think is required for the 
propagation path.  If the station replies I may increase or reduce power based 
on their report.  If the station does not reply I look at PSKReporter to find 
reports from the station I called or from others in the same area.  If no one 
in the area reported my signal I may increase power.

My station controller automatically sets "FT8 power" on band change if that 
option is enabled.  "FT8 power" is not max power on any band.  It is set for 
each band based on antenna and experience of propagation conditions for that 
band.   I can reduce power, or increase to band max power, whenever it is 
appropriate but I enjoy making QSO with the lowest power I can.

Some people think that WSJT-X modes require no skill but it's not just blast 
and log.  Those who put some thought into operating technique may make the QSO 
where bigger stations fail.

I've been using WSJT-X since before version 1.0 was released but still have 
worked more DX using CW than any digital mode in the last 8 or so years.

Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?

[brianchapnick]

My only rig is a kx3 so I have no experience at high power. With digital modes, 
does it matter at the receiving end whether the signal is -15db or 1db? Will 
not both signals be decoded the same way?  With high power is it your practice 
to start with lower levels and work your way up or do you go for broke from the 
start? I understand the advantage of higher power with modes that you actually 
have to use your ears to make sense of things.

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: rick.n...@gmail.com
Sent: April 5, 2020 12:13 a.m.
To: brianchapn...@rogers.com
Cc: rmcg...@blomand.net; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?


Because it’s weak signal at the receiving end; you use what power it takes to 
succeed in making the contact, up to the legal limit.

On 160M, 1500 watts out is common.

Rick NK7I

Smell Czech corruptions are inevitable

> On Apr 4, 2020, at 9:02 PM, brianchapnick  wrote:
>
> This discussion fascinates me only in that I wonder why you are using so 
> much power for weak signal modes? 5 or 10 watts should be plenty even with a 
> compromised antenna and poor band conditions..or am I missing 
> somthing.Brian VE3GMZ Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>  Original message From: Bob McGraw K4TAX 
>  Date: 2020-04-04  8:19 p.m.  (GMT-05:00) To: 
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 
> 100? Frank et al;Just quoted what is in the K3S manual.   No interpretation 
> provided.   I agree that 100 watts key down is a lot for a SSB amplifier 
> running in CW mode.   To me that says 100 watts for 10 minutes and then RX 
> for 10 minutes.   Otherwise equal TX and RX times.   Who does that?And if one 
> is running "100 watts" then running CW or SSB for 10 minutes might be the 
> limit.  Just speculation.   On AM I might talk for 10 minutes but that is at 
> 25% rated power output for carrier, yet it is 100 watts PEP.   The 60 C is MY 
> guideline. The KPA3A will shut down about 85 C or so.On 6M I run my KPA500 at 
> about 300 to 400 watts.  The K3S is running about 25 to 30 watts on 6M.   At 
> this point I'm watching the KPA500 temperature.There is NO DX worth blowing a 
> PA either in the K3S or the KPA500.    But I know guys that will blow things 
> up, pushing things to the max and beyond  trying to work that DX station.  I 
> say bah humbug to that!I just pay attention to the PA temp, specially when 
> running digital modes. Likewise for the KPA500.73Bob, K4TAXOn 4/4/2020 3:41 
> PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:> Thanks for the replies.>> I've enabled the PA 
> temp display (currently showing 22C right after > power-up but before 
> transmitting), and will keep an eye on that.>> Bob, I noticed that line in 
> the K3S manual about the CW/SSB duty > cycle. Does "100% - 10 min, 100 W 
> key-down" mean that if you key down > without stop in CW mode it can go 10 
> minutes at 100 watts? That seems > like an awful lot.>> Where do the 
> recommended TPO's for 6 meters, the 50% value for JT9, > and the 60C 
> guideline for the PA temp come from?>> Thanks again,>> Frank K6FOD>>> On 
> 4/4/20 6:22 AM, John Simmons wrote:>> Fred Cady's book:>>>> "There are four 
> fans speeds that turn on at different temperatures.">> "If the temperature 
> reaches 84 degrees C the KPA3 will be bypassed >> until the temperature falls 
> to stop any damage as a last-ditch backup >> measure to protect your 
> expensive power transistors from the excess >> heat.">>>> -de John NI0K>>>>>> 
> Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote on 4/3/2020 6:39 PM:>>> Frank:>>>>>> The duty cycle 
> for the transmitter, as stated in the manual, is;  CW >>> and SSB modes, 100% 
> - 10 min, 100 W key-down at 25C ambient.   Do >>> note that 6M has reduce 
> power values of 85 watts {51 -52 MHz} or 70 >>> watts {52 - 54 MHz}>>>>>> The 
> duty cycle for JT-9, 1 minute transmit, 1 minute receive would >>> be 50%.   
> I frequently run 100 watts on WSJT-X FT-8 with no issues.  >>> Just pay 
> attention to PA temperature.  It should be 60 C or less.   >>> Also this is 
> with FANS in the automatic mode.>>>>>> 73>>>>>> Bob, K4TAX>>>>>>>>> On 
> 4/3/2020 4:18 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:>>>> I've been using JT9 mode on 630m 
> this winter with my K3S outputting >>>> to an external class D amp.>>>>>>>> 
> Now I'm interested in trying some JT9 QSOs with some people >>>> currently 
>

Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?

[brianchapnick]

This discussion fascinates me only in that I wonder why you are using so much 
power for weak signal modes? 5 or 10 watts should be plenty even with a 
compromised antenna and poor band conditions..or am I missing 
somthing.Brian VE3GMZ Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Bob McGraw K4TAX  
Date: 2020-04-04  8:19 p.m.  (GMT-05:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: 
Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100? Frank et al;Just quoted what is 
in the K3S manual.   No interpretation provided.   I agree that 100 watts key 
down is a lot for a SSB amplifier running in CW mode.   To me that says 100 
watts for 10 minutes and then RX for 10 minutes.   Otherwise equal TX and RX 
times.   Who does that?And if one is running "100 watts" then running CW or SSB 
for 10 minutes might be the limit.  Just speculation.   On AM I might talk for 
10 minutes but that is at 25% rated power output for carrier, yet it is 100 
watts PEP.   The 60 C is MY guideline. The KPA3A will shut down about 85 C or 
so.On 6M I run my KPA500 at about 300 to 400 watts.  The K3S is running about 
25 to 30 watts on 6M.   At this point I'm watching the KPA500 temperature.There 
is NO DX worth blowing a PA either in the K3S or the KPA500.    But I know guys 
that will blow things up, pushing things to the max and beyond  trying to work 
that DX station.  I say bah humbug to that!I just pay attention to the PA temp, 
specially when running digital modes. Likewise for the KPA500.73Bob, K4TAXOn 
4/4/2020 3:41 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:> Thanks for the replies.>> I've 
enabled the PA temp display (currently showing 22C right after > power-up but 
before transmitting), and will keep an eye on that.>> Bob, I noticed that line 
in the K3S manual about the CW/SSB duty > cycle. Does "100% - 10 min, 100 W 
key-down" mean that if you key down > without stop in CW mode it can go 10 
minutes at 100 watts? That seems > like an awful lot.>> Where do the 
recommended TPO's for 6 meters, the 50% value for JT9, > and the 60C guideline 
for the PA temp come from?>> Thanks again,>> Frank K6FOD>>> On 4/4/20 6:22 AM, 
John Simmons wrote:>> Fred Cady's book: "There are four fans speeds that 
turn on at different temperatures.">> "If the temperature reaches 84 degrees C 
the KPA3 will be bypassed >> until the temperature falls to stop any damage as 
a last-ditch backup >> measure to protect your expensive power transistors from 
the excess >> heat." -de John NI0K>> Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote on 4/3/2020 
6:39 PM:>>> Frank:>> The duty cycle for the transmitter, as stated in the 
manual, is;  CW >>> and SSB modes, 100% - 10 min, 100 W key-down at 25C 
ambient.   Do >>> note that 6M has reduce power values of 85 watts {51 -52 MHz} 
or 70 >>> watts {52 - 54 MHz}>> The duty cycle for JT-9, 1 minute transmit, 
1 minute receive would >>> be 50%.   I frequently run 100 watts on WSJT-X FT-8 
with no issues.  >>> Just pay attention to PA temperature.  It should be 60 C 
or less.   >>> Also this is with FANS in the automatic mode.>> 73>> 
Bob, K4TAX> On 4/3/2020 4:18 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote: I've been 
using JT9 mode on 630m this winter with my K3S outputting  to an external 
class D amp. Now I'm interested in trying some JT9 QSOs with some 
people  currently operating on 160m. For me this would mean outputting  
directly from the K3S (with internal tuner) to the antenna. Given the 
1-minute cycle time for JT9, are there recommendations  (official from 
Elecraft, or otherwise) on maximum power to use in a  situation like this? 
And/or, is the answer dependent on the SWR I  can achieve with the 
antenna? Thanks and 73, Frank K6FOD>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Not moving your wrist sending CW ?

[brianchapnick]

Jim, pardon my ignorance but KN means end of transmission or invite a specific 
station to transmit from what I see. Why would that deter a reply from a CQ? I 
am sure you are right but I would like to know the experienced understanding 
from a pro.

Brian VE3GMZ 



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  Original Message  


From: w...@cox.net
Sent: March 29, 2020 4:52 p.m.
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Reply to: w...@cox.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Not moving your wrist sending CW ?


I learned CW back in 1961 as a "Morse Intercept Operator" in the Army
Security Agency.  They didn't teach us to send, other than after we
passed 18 groups (yes, 5 leter/number groups, not English words) per
minute copying on a "Mill" they gave us a 4 hour class on sending with a
hand key.  To pass that class we had to send a paragraph of text which
was recorded in the morning and then in the afternoon we had to copy
back the text we sent and get 75 percent perfect copy to pass.  THAT is
extremely difficult when you learned to copy 5 letter/number groups and
then the sending test was a paragraph of English and your own sending to
boot!

I taught myself higher speed sending using a TO keyer and a Vibroplex
single lever paddle (Iambic keying hadn't been invented at that time). 
I didn't get to where I could get my ham license until I got to Japan in
1963 and took the old "Conditional" test.  Once I had my license I
bought a Vibroplex bug and again taught myself to use it.  I do roll my
wrist slightly, and for me that is very comfortable.  I also taught
myself (took a couple years to master) to switch back and forthe between
paddles and the bug, a skill I maintain to this day and I'm turning 78
in a few days.  I can still copy 60 wpm or so in my head but with the
bug or paddles, my comfortable sending speed is between 25 and 30.

My pet peeve these days with the newer ops that actually can send CW is
they call CQ and then end the CQ sequence with "KN" and then wonder why
nobody answers them - LOL.

Jim, W0EB

-- Original Message --
From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 3/29/2020 3:24:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Not moving your wrist sending CW ?

>On 2020-03-29 2:01 PM, EricJ wrote:
>>The bug was developed to minimize destructive wrist action. Operators
>>learned to roll their wrist, but not really flex it in any way. I've
>>noticed most of the high speed ops on youtube demonstrating Begali
>>(what else?) keys use two fingers and thumb with no wrist movement.
>
>The only place I know that Morse was sent using "fingers only" was with
>iambic/squeeze keying using an electronic keyer.
>
>I learned on a straight key 50+ years ago where I was taught to use the
>entire forearm.  I moved to a bug where I was taught to roll the forearm
>(confirmed after the fact by my wife's grandfather who was a long time
>Western Electric landline operator/station manager) to a single paddle
>TO keyer and eventually to a dual paddle keyer.  I still roll my wrist
>and use very little finger movement (obviously I don't "squeeze").
>
>73,
>
>    ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
>On 2020-03-29 2:01 PM, EricJ wrote:
>>Sending Morse by foot isn't so rare. It's common enough that a Q-code was 
>>developed especially for it.
>>
>>Most of us started on a straight key (62 years) where wrist action is more 
>>important. The bug was developed to minimize destructive wrist action. 
>>Operators learned to roll their wrist, but not really flex it in any way. 
>>I've noticed most of the high speed ops on youtube demonstrating Begali (what 
>>else?) keys use two fingers and thumb with no wrist movement. I've only seen 
>>it on youtube as nobody I've known since the Army ever sent that fast!
>>
>>Eric KE6US
>>
>
>
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