Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[djmd]

Thanks Don, this did the trick!

Unfortunately I can't test it again on the dipole... mother nature decided
to dump an inch of ice on us which weighted down the antenna and took down
the mast holding up one end of it. booo... I'm still a little bit
concerned about the strange noises I was hearing on and off throughout the
band when I was connected to the big antenna. But I think I am just going to
start part 3.





Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
> 
> The first thing you should do when you get back to it Thursday is to put 
> the bottom cover on (using all 6 screws) if it is not already mounted, 
> and then run CAL PLL.  That should set your tuning straight. 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[David Woolley (E.L)]

djmd wrote:
> 
> Well, now I'm even more confused. I installed those toroids. I checked the
> pads for connectivity, and they are ok. The signal seems to be present on

Both ends of the filter are grounded when the filter is not selected, 
and the power off relay positions are not defined (probably last 
setting).  That could give a false indication of continuity.

> the "top" pad of L25 and L26, but still nothing on C226 or C227. I guess I
> should remove them, re-wind them and re-strip/tin? Like I said, I checked
> them on the DMM but I guess I'm not 100% sure. I'm having way more trouble
> stripping the enamel off these than I did with the KX1 for some reason.
> 
-- 
David Woolley
"The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to 
Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio"
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[Don Wilhelm]

The first thing you should do when you get back to it Thursday is to put 
the bottom cover on (using all 6 screws) if it is not already mounted, 
and then run CAL PLL.  That should set your tuning straight.  Right now 
it would appear that you have random data in the EEPROM, and a CAL PLL 
run will straighten that out by storing new values.

You might also strongly consider also using CAL FIL to move to each BFO 
in turn and change its frequency slightly (set it back to the original 
if your filters are already set correctly).  Doing that will cause the 
K2 to store new values in the EEPROM for the BFO frequencies.

If that does not cure the tuning issue, then please ask again and we can 
provide some troubleshooting aid.

73,
Don W3FPR

djmd wrote:
> Yeah, that was more or less it. I remembered that when I did the KX1 I used a
> much bigger tip on the iron, so I switched to that and it worked just like I
> remembered. So now I am definitely hearing the outside world loud and clear.
> However, this has brought to attention a couple new problems.
>
> First of all, very strange noises in certain portions of the band. They seem
> to disappear suddenly while I am tuning. Hard to explain, it's not any kind
> of noise that I have ever heard before... hopefully it's related to this
> problem:
>
> When listening to CW (and SSB) signals and tuning across the band, the pitch
> of the heard signals are staying constant... it's like the frequency is only
> changing every so often, not steadily as I move up and down. A friend is
> saying it's probably a VCO issue. Just to be clear, all VCO voltages were in
> range when I checked them yesterday. 
>
> I will be unable to work on the radio until Thursday afternoon, but would
> love to know what I should be checking when I get back. Thanks for all the
> help! 
>
>
>
> Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
>   
>> If you are having trouble stripping the toroid leads, that is cause to 
>> suspect that they are the problem.  If you are using the 'solder blob' 
>> method, remember to increase the heat on the iron - at least 800 deg F 
>> or even 850.  Wait until the enamel starts to smoke a bit before moving 
>> the lead through the solder blob.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>
>> 
>
>   
> 
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.13/1916 - Release Date: 1/26/2009 
> 7:08 AM
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[djmd]

Yeah, that was more or less it. I remembered that when I did the KX1 I used a
much bigger tip on the iron, so I switched to that and it worked just like I
remembered. So now I am definitely hearing the outside world loud and clear.
However, this has brought to attention a couple new problems.

First of all, very strange noises in certain portions of the band. They seem
to disappear suddenly while I am tuning. Hard to explain, it's not any kind
of noise that I have ever heard before... hopefully it's related to this
problem:

When listening to CW (and SSB) signals and tuning across the band, the pitch
of the heard signals are staying constant... it's like the frequency is only
changing every so often, not steadily as I move up and down. A friend is
saying it's probably a VCO issue. Just to be clear, all VCO voltages were in
range when I checked them yesterday. 

I will be unable to work on the radio until Thursday afternoon, but would
love to know what I should be checking when I get back. Thanks for all the
help! 



Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
> 
> If you are having trouble stripping the toroid leads, that is cause to 
> suspect that they are the problem.  If you are using the 'solder blob' 
> method, remember to increase the heat on the iron - at least 800 deg F 
> or even 850.  Wait until the enamel starts to smoke a bit before moving 
> the lead through the solder blob.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[Don Wilhelm]

If you are having trouble stripping the toroid leads, that is cause to 
suspect that they are the problem.  If you are using the 'solder blob' 
method, remember to increase the heat on the iron - at least 800 deg F 
or even 850.  Wait until the enamel starts to smoke a bit before moving 
the lead through the solder blob.

73,
Don W3FPR

djmd wrote:
> Well, now I'm even more confused. I installed those toroids. I checked the
> pads for connectivity, and they are ok. The signal seems to be present on
> the "top" pad of L25 and L26, but still nothing on C226 or C227. I guess I
> should remove them, re-wind them and re-strip/tin? Like I said, I checked
> them on the DMM but I guess I'm not 100% sure. I'm having way more trouble
> stripping the enamel off these than I did with the KX1 for some reason.
>
> Unfortunately I won't be able to continue till Thursday, as I am heading out
> of town this afternoon. I will report back then... in the meantime if you
> have any thoughts, they surely are welcome.
>
> 73
> K8DJW
>   
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[Don Wilhelm]

I was just going to tell you to check the lead tinning on L25 and L26 
when I saw your note here.
Great that you found that omission.

73,
Don W3FPR

djmd wrote:
> Haha!
>
> I skipped over L25 and L26. I'll get those on there and get back to ya'll :)
>
> Seriously though, I learned more about the circuit this morning than I have
> in the whole process of the build, so I'm glad this happened. 
>
> Wow... 
>
>
>   
> 
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.13/1916 - Release Date: 1/26/2009 
> 7:08 AM
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[djmd]

Well, now I'm even more confused. I installed those toroids. I checked the
pads for connectivity, and they are ok. The signal seems to be present on
the "top" pad of L25 and L26, but still nothing on C226 or C227. I guess I
should remove them, re-wind them and re-strip/tin? Like I said, I checked
them on the DMM but I guess I'm not 100% sure. I'm having way more trouble
stripping the enamel off these than I did with the KX1 for some reason.

Unfortunately I won't be able to continue till Thursday, as I am heading out
of town this afternoon. I will report back then... in the meantime if you
have any thoughts, they surely are welcome.

73
K8DJW
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[djmd]

Haha!

I skipped over L25 and L26. I'll get those on there and get back to ya'll :)

Seriously though, I learned more about the circuit this morning than I have
in the whole process of the build, so I'm glad this happened. 

Wow... 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[djmd]

Alrighty! Bear with me, this is new territory. I followed the signal through
the radio per the Cheap and Dirty tracing... cool stuff. I thought I had a
problem at C5, as the signal was a bit louder on the other end of C5 (vs.
the junction to C4) but I kept going. C228 seems to be where the buck stops.
I hear it on C225, I don't hear it at all on C226. On 228 I hear it on the
225 side but not the other side, the junction to 226. Would the first step
be to replace this cap?



At this point of construction, the 40 meter receiver should be as good 
as it gets - the following assembly only adds the other bands and the 
transmit section.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[m0trx]

Hello,

See page 59 of the manual for installation instructions for C6. Ensure that
it is indeed soldered into the outer of the two pins

i.e. [here][   ][and here] 

(if the [][][] were to represent the three pins)

Merlin





djmd wrote:
> 
> Hello Elecraft(ers)!
> 
> I just wrapped up part II of the RF board assembly, test, and alignment. 
> I was elated to discover that all the VCO values were in range and that 
> I could hear my KX1 screaming in the headphones attached to the K2. But 
> I have a question - I brought the K2 upstairs and attached it to my 
> outdoor dipole... verified that there was plenty of activity on 40m with 
> my FT840... but didn't hear a THING in the K2. Didn't even hear a blip 
> when I removed/re-attached the antenna cable. I am guessing that the 
> circuitry isn't built up enough to bring in signals generated more than 
> a few feet away, but I don't know... I don't feel that I have the RF 
> electronics background necessary to build this thing, but I'm darn good 
> at soldering and construction :) Should I be concerned or should I move 
> on and finish this thing??
> 
> I completed the KX1 this past fall... only made one contact (due to 
> time/effort constraints) but it was a good 300 miles away or so... so 
> I'm really excited to get this rig on the air!!
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[Don Wilhelm]

At this point of construction, the 40 meter receiver should be as good 
as it gets - the following assembly only adds the other bands and the 
transmit section.

You do have a problem somewhere that should be investigated.

The easiest first step is to try the "Quick and Dirty Signal Tracing" 
technique that is in the Builder's Resource page at the Elecraft 
website.  If that does not reveal the area of failure, then one can 
resort to the Receiver Signal Tracing steps in Appendix E of the manual.

73,
Don W3FPR

David J. Wallace wrote:
> Hello Elecraft(ers)!
>
> I just wrapped up part II of the RF board assembly, test, and alignment. 
> I was elated to discover that all the VCO values were in range and that 
> I could hear my KX1 screaming in the headphones attached to the K2. But 
> I have a question - I brought the K2 upstairs and attached it to my 
> outdoor dipole... verified that there was plenty of activity on 40m with 
> my FT840... but didn't hear a THING in the K2. Didn't even hear a blip 
> when I removed/re-attached the antenna cable. I am guessing that the 
> circuitry isn't built up enough to bring in signals generated more than 
> a few feet away, but I don't know... I don't feel that I have the RF 
> electronics background necessary to build this thing, but I'm darn good 
> at soldering and construction :) Should I be concerned or should I move 
> on and finish this thing??
>
> I completed the KX1 this past fall... only made one contact (due to 
> time/effort constraints) but it was a good 300 miles away or so... so 
> I'm really excited to get this rig on the air!!
>
>
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> 
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.13/1914 - Release Date: 1/24/2009 
> 8:40 PM
>
>   
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[Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

[David J. Wallace]

Hello Elecraft(ers)!

I just wrapped up part II of the RF board assembly, test, and alignment. 
I was elated to discover that all the VCO values were in range and that 
I could hear my KX1 screaming in the headphones attached to the K2. But 
I have a question - I brought the K2 upstairs and attached it to my 
outdoor dipole... verified that there was plenty of activity on 40m with 
my FT840... but didn't hear a THING in the K2. Didn't even hear a blip 
when I removed/re-attached the antenna cable. I am guessing that the 
circuitry isn't built up enough to bring in signals generated more than 
a few feet away, but I don't know... I don't feel that I have the RF 
electronics background necessary to build this thing, but I'm darn good 
at soldering and construction :) Should I be concerned or should I move 
on and finish this thing??

I completed the KX1 this past fall... only made one contact (due to 
time/effort constraints) but it was a good 300 miles away or so... so 
I'm really excited to get this rig on the air!!


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