Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Matt,

I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the 
crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order 
a new housing too.

See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.

It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would 
just have to assemble it even with all new parts.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
 Hi there,

 I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

 Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
 batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
 which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
 transceiver.

 Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

 73,

 Matt, AC9BQ

 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Matt Hancock
That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
the batteries?

... Matt

On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
 crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
 new housing too.

 See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.

 It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
 have to assemble it even with all new parts.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:

 Hi there,

 I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

 Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
 batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
 which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
 transceiver.

 Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

 73,

 Matt, AC9BQ

 Sent from my iPhone
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-- 
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twitter.com/mwhancock
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Matt,

If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the 
old crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones.  There is a diagram 
in the Final Assembly section of the manual.
If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the 
leads instead of soldering, but very few have that tool.

The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- 
only about 1 1/2 inches should be free.  When you remove the back to 
change the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from 
the KX1 board.

Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly.

There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the 
back of the housing.  You must slide the crimp pins in with some 
pressure toward that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside 
of the housing where the flanges of the crimp pin slide.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
 That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
 pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
 leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
 the batteries?

 ... Matt

 On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
 crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
 new housing too.

 See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.

 It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
 have to assemble it even with all new parts.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:

 Hi there,

 I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

 Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
 batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
 which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
 transceiver.

 Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

 73,

 Matt, AC9BQ

 Sent from my iPhone
 __**__**__
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 http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecrafthttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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 Post: mailto:elecr...@mailman.qth.**net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Matt Hancock
Got it. Bottom line is, even after cutting and adding the new crimp
pins, I'll have enough wire to open the back.

Will make sure to disconnect the connector from the board when opening
up in the future!

... Matt

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 9, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old 
 crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones.  There is a diagram in the 
 Final Assembly section of the manual.
 If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the leads 
 instead of soldering, but very few have that tool.

 The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- only 
 about 1 1/2 inches should be free.  When you remove the back to change the 
 batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1 board.

 Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly.

 There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back of 
 the housing.  You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward that 
 side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing where the 
 flanges of the crimp pin slide.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
 That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
 pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
 leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
 the batteries?

 ... Matt

 On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
 crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
 new housing too.

 See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.

 It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
 have to assemble it even with all new parts.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:

 Hi there,

 I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

 Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
 batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
 which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
 transceiver.

 Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

 73,

 Matt, AC9BQ

 Sent from my iPhone
 __**__**__
 Elecraft mailing list
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 http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecrafthttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.**htmhttp://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Matt,

If your wire leads are more than 1.5 inches long, the original builder 
did not dress the wires under the battery holders correctly. refer to 
the manual instructions for the battery holder installation for the 
proper way to route the battery wires.

Properly routed, the connector pulls off when you remove the back cover, 
and it is easy to put back on its mating connector after you change the 
batteries.  If the wires are not routed properly, you have to fuss 
with them every time you remove/replace the back cover.

Yes,many builders have trouble with not only the proper installation of 
the crimp pins, but also the routing of the battery wires.  My method is 
to mount the right battery holder, then push its red wire under the 
holder (up to the point where the heat-shrink has been added), then hold 
the black wire from the left battery holder under the holder in 
approximately the correct position and fasten that holder loosely with 
the screw closest to the edge of the cover.
Now, you can fiddle with the wires - the black one from the right holder 
is routed around the corner of the holder - that is usually not a 
problem.  The black wire from the right holder is routed outside the 
black wire from the left one, and goes behind the mounting foot 
projection - you can lift the edge of the battery holder a bit and slide 
a thin screwdriver point in to position that wire.  The short red wire 
from the left holder goes under the holder and behind the round tab, 
exiting the battery holder about the same place as the black wire.

Look at the diagram in the manual.

If your wires are not routed like that, I strongly recommend you arrange 
then that way - they will give you fewer problems in the future.

On 8/9/2012 6:25 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
 Got it. Bottom line is, even after cutting and adding the new crimp
 pins, I'll have enough wire to open the back.

 Will make sure to disconnect the connector from the board when opening
 up in the future!

 ... Matt

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 9, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old 
 crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones.  There is a diagram in the 
 Final Assembly section of the manual.
 If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the leads 
 instead of soldering, but very few have that tool.

 The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- 
 only about 1 1/2 inches should be free.  When you remove the back to change 
 the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1 
 board.

 Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly.

 There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back 
 of the housing.  You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward 
 that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing 
 where the flanges of the crimp pin slide.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
 That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
 pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
 leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
 the batteries?

 ... Matt

 On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
 crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
 new housing too.

 See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.

 It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
 have to assemble it even with all new parts.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:

 Hi there,

 I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

 Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
 batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
 which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
 transceiver.

 Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

 73,

 Matt, AC9BQ

 Sent from my iPhone
 __**__**__
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 http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecrafthttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.**htmhttp://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Matt, if you look at the connector, you'll see that there is a little
locking tab on the side of the connector opposite the ears. If you press
down on the tab so it no longer hits the connector housing, then push back,
you should be able to remove the old female connectors easily. I've done
that and, with careful soldering, salvaged the existing connectors to attach
to new wires. 

When you reinsert the connectors in the housing, be sure those springy
locking tabs pop up to positively lock each connector in the housing. If
they won't insert far enough, it's certain you have too much solder on the
connection. 

My KX1 has the stock battery wire length and I have plenty of room to open
the back and lay it end-to-end next to the front panel to change batteries
without even disconnecting the battery cable, although unplugging it and
replacing it is no problem at all. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Matt Hancock
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 3:26 PM
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

Got it. Bottom line is, even after cutting and adding the new crimp pins,
I'll have enough wire to open the back.

Will make sure to disconnect the connector from the board when opening up in
the future!

... Matt

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 9, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old
crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones.  There is a diagram in the
Final Assembly section of the manual.
 If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the
leads instead of soldering, but very few have that tool.

 The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.-
only about 1 1/2 inches should be free.  When you remove the back to change
the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1
board.

 Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly.

 There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back
of the housing.  You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward
that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing
where the flanges of the crimp pin slide.

 73,

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Of course, Ron is correct, those crimp pins can be removed from the 
housing, but I have seen many that had the crimp pins mangled so neither 
the crimp pins nor the housing were able to be salvaged.

As far as removing the back without popping the connector, yes, it can 
be done, but the connector is so easy to put back on, and it takes a lot 
of care to keep it connected, I just simplify and remove the connector 
when the back is removed.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2012 6:53 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 Matt, if you look at the connector, you'll see that there is a little
 locking tab on the side of the connector opposite the ears. If you press
 down on the tab so it no longer hits the connector housing, then push back,
 you should be able to remove the old female connectors easily. I've done
 that and, with careful soldering, salvaged the existing connectors to attach
 to new wires.

 When you reinsert the connectors in the housing, be sure those springy
 locking tabs pop up to positively lock each connector in the housing. If
 they won't insert far enough, it's certain you have too much solder on the
 connection.

 My KX1 has the stock battery wire length and I have plenty of room to open
 the back and lay it end-to-end next to the front panel to change batteries
 without even disconnecting the battery cable, although unplugging it and
 replacing it is no problem at all.

 73, Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-08 Thread Matt Hancock
Hi there,

I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
transceiver.

Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

73,

Matt, AC9BQ

Sent from my iPhone
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