RE: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

2006-05-23 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Jim K9YC wrote:

So what?  The significance of an RF ground is highly 
overemphasized. Park next the to end of the runway of your local 
airport and watch the 747's take off. Call me collect when you see 
one trailing a ground wire. Last I heard, the onboard electronics 
and radios work just fine without one. 

--

Of course an RF ground or a connection to the earth is not essential.
Indeed, my point was that a connection to the earth was NOT required. 

In the question I was responding to, the writer was trying to reduce the RF
voltage on the case of his equipment because everything was not floating
above ground, like in an airplane. I was suggesting ways he could reduce the
RF voltages on the gear without a connection to an earth ground.

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

2006-05-23 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

Well said - for years now I have been trying to convince folks that there is
a strong need for considering 2 'grounds' at a station.
The first is the Safety Ground which should be a low impedance path to
earth - large conductors, lots of heavy guage wire buried in the earth and
ground rods, and this must also be connected to the utility ground.
Properly implemented it should serve a a lightning protection ground.

The second is the RF Ground - and the Safety Ground may or may not suffice.
Consider a good Safety Ground with an 8 foot connection from the antenna
connection at the tuner - that combintion will likely produce a high
impedance for RF at 10 meters, thus there will be no RF Ground at that
frequency.  In such conditions, the use of quarterwave counterpoises for
each troublesome band is in order.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

So what?  The significance of an RF ground is highly
overemphasized. Park next the to end of the runway of your local
airport and watch the 747's take off. Call me collect when you see
one trailing a ground wire. Last I heard, the onboard electronics
and radios work just fine without one.

The earth is NOT a sump into which noise is dumped, nor will a
connection to earth make a radio more stable. An earth connection
has no beneficial effect on the operation of a radio transmitter,
nor on the elimination of RF interference. In fact, a connection
made to earth by a noise source or receiver will act as an
antenna, radiating or receiving interference.

A ground system for a long wire or vertical antenna is really a
COUNTERPOISE for the antenna -- it provides the other half of the
circuit for the transmitter (or receiver) as a load. This is why
it is VERY important to bond the shield of the coax in a mobile
antenna system to the body of the car at the base of the antenna.
It isn't noise (although it might reduce noise), it's the other
half of the antenna!

The surface of the earth also serves as a reflector for the radio
waves radiated by the antenna. That ground system will work better
(be more efficient, have less IR loss) if it is has low impedance
at the frequency where it is used. High moisture content results
in very low resitivity and better reflectivity in the soil. It is
the combination of the reflection(s) with the direct wave from the
antenna that determine the vertical directivity of the antenna
system. These two mechanisms are the significance of RF ground.

Jim Brown K9YC
http://audiosystemsgroup.com


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RE: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

2006-05-23 Thread Jim Brown
On Tue, 23 May 2006 10:29:50 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Well said - for years now I have been trying to convince folks that there 
is
a strong need for considering 2 'grounds' at a station.

Yes. It is also important to remember that a SAFE installation (from a 
lightning and power safety point of view) requires that ALL grounds be 
bonded together, prefereably outside the building. In other words, while 
we must consider the behavior of our ground systems at radio frequencies, 
we must also take into account how they behave at power frequencies, and 
how they will respond to lightning (think radio frequencies). 

There is a discussion of safe grounding in the Power and Grounding 
tutorial that is on my website. All pdf files, no cookies required, free 
download. While it is specifically written for pro audio systems, the same 
laws of physics apply equally to our ham stations. :)

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish

BTW -- sorry to have missed seeing you at Dayton -- I just completed a 
cross country move from Chicago to Santa Cruz, and am totally burned out 
on traveling for at least a month or two. So I stayed home. The good news 
that I'm now about 20 miles from Elecraft world headquarters! 

73,

Jim Brown K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

2006-05-23 Thread VR2BrettGraham

W3FPR continued from K9YC:


Well said - for years now I have been trying to convince folks that there is
a strong need for considering 2 'grounds' at a station.
The first is the Safety Ground which should be a low impedance path to
earth - large conductors, lots of heavy guage wire buried in the earth and
ground rods, and this must also be connected to the utility ground.
Properly implemented it should serve a a lightning protection ground.

The second is the RF Ground - and the Safety Ground may or may not suffice.
Consider a good Safety Ground with an 8 foot connection from the antenna
connection at the tuner - that combintion will likely produce a high
impedance for RF at 10 meters, thus there will be no RF Ground at that
frequency.  In such conditions, the use of quarterwave counterpoises for
each troublesome band is in order.


Yes, important distinction  worth mentioning!

When not physically close to ground level, that safety ground
in the shack can bite you in the bum, such as in Don's example.
Few here can establish shack safety or antenna safety grounds
that are not going to do something untoward.

And antennas usually require roof access, a roof that often
has to be directly over your head (top floor flat).  This makes
RF in shack a big problem.

Computer keying, mic switching  voice keyers don't like RF.
In such an extreme environment, usually with no option to
move anything around, I have yet to try an artificial ground.

This despite four feeders plus few control cables running
straight into shack from series-fed roof tower as low band
vertical - common-mode chokes have always done the trick.
They also help keep noises from shack from getting back into
the antennas.

I could drop all the bonding between major boxes in the
shack (rigs, amps, switching gear), but that is my
solution for redundant safety ground when operating as
total disconnect is also practiced inside during lightning.  The
bonding also helps a bit with computer keying (often only way
to keep from latching key down when transmitting into the
roof tower vertical).

Few solar cycles of experience from two to 39 floors up here
that may help those in more pedestrian situations.  The
artificial ground is like what I am trying to avoid in the station,
so would really be a last resort  one that has yet to be
needed.  Saying that, I also will not use any end-fed wire or
similar antenna that is certain to be problematic - for a
temporary set-up where I had to use that sort of antenna then
an artificial ground could be the ticket but then certain to hear
that computer, telly, etc... unless near field dominates, choke
that common-mode stuff  you're likely to prevail.

73, VR2BrettGraham

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RE: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

2006-05-23 Thread Don Wilhelm
Brett,

I did not intend to say that you should disconnect your equipment from the
safety gound - only that you may need to supplment it with an RF ground at
the place where your equipment connects to the antenna system.  In other
words, both are necessary, and can work in conjunction with each other.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

W3FPR continued from K9YC:

Well said - for years now I have been trying to convince folks that there
is
a strong need for considering 2 'grounds' at a station.
The first is the Safety Ground which should be a low impedance path to
earth - large conductors, lots of heavy guage wire buried in the earth and
ground rods, and this must also be connected to the utility ground.
Properly implemented it should serve a a lightning protection ground.

The second is the RF Ground - and the Safety Ground may or may not suffice.
Consider a good Safety Ground with an 8 foot connection from the antenna
connection at the tuner - that combintion will likely produce a high
impedance for RF at 10 meters, thus there will be no RF Ground at that
frequency.  In such conditions, the use of quarterwave counterpoises for
each troublesome band is in order.

Yes, important distinction  worth mentioning!

When not physically close to ground level, that safety ground
in the shack can bite you in the bum, such as in Don's example.
Few here can establish shack safety or antenna safety grounds
that are not going to do something untoward.

And antennas usually require roof access, a roof that often
has to be directly over your head (top floor flat).  This makes
RF in shack a big problem.

Computer keying, mic switching  voice keyers don't like RF.
In such an extreme environment, usually with no option to
move anything around, I have yet to try an artificial ground.

This despite four feeders plus few control cables running
straight into shack from series-fed roof tower as low band
vertical - common-mode chokes have always done the trick.
They also help keep noises from shack from getting back into
the antennas.

I could drop all the bonding between major boxes in the
shack (rigs, amps, switching gear), but that is my
solution for redundant safety ground when operating as
total disconnect is also practiced inside during lightning.  The
bonding also helps a bit with computer keying (often only way
to keep from latching key down when transmitting into the
roof tower vertical).

Few solar cycles of experience from two to 39 floors up here
that may help those in more pedestrian situations.  The
artificial ground is like what I am trying to avoid in the station,
so would really be a last resort  one that has yet to be
needed.  Saying that, I also will not use any end-fed wire or
similar antenna that is certain to be problematic - for a
temporary set-up where I had to use that sort of antenna then
an artificial ground could be the ticket but then certain to hear
that computer, telly, etc... unless near field dominates, choke
that common-mode stuff  you're likely to prevail.

73, VR2BrettGraham

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RE: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

2006-05-23 Thread VR2BrettGraham

W3FPR added:


I did not intend to say that you should disconnect your equipment from the
safety gound - only that you may need to supplment it with an RF ground at
the place where your equipment connects to the antenna system.  In other
words, both are necessary, and can work in conjunction with each other.


No, I don't think you did.

I have found RF ground to be pretty elusive, so don't bother.
Safety ground beyond mains leads sometimes makes things
worse, though has obvious downside.  With 220 volt mains,
a failure is more dangerous, though also more obvious.  The
overall situation must be kept in mind, but what I am saying
is that grounding as everyone thinks it has to be done is not
done here  therefore might be kept in mind when having to
tame RF nastiness in some situations.

Frequency of lightning even this far north drives the need
for total disconnect, so that mains lead safety ground
already there could be the place to stop  attention turned
to choking if near field isn't dominate.  Bonding of major
bits at least keeps case of failed box tied to a safety ground
that I keep an eye on (and usually helps tame the nasties).  A
compromise, but workable where no way to really build for
no-need-to-disconnect.

I don't think I'm implying giving up the safety ground (at least
not when operating), either.  If it gets too exciting, will have
already yanked everything, as the 1N5711s become
dominate. ;^)

Artificial ground plus choking could still be the ticket for
end-fed wires, etc.  I just find ground makes things worse
sometimes  I sit right under my antennas.  Like black
magic, RF is.  Extra grounding might not be your friend.

73, VR2BrettGraham

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[Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

2006-05-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Getting an effective RF ground at the higher frequencies isn't really
difficult, but it sometimes takes thinking about it a little differently.
The problem is that wires going to an earth ground are usually quite long in
terms of wavelength. That makes them ineffective. 

For example, you have a 23 foot wire running from the rig to a solid earth
ground on 30 meters, you'll have no RF ground at all at the rig. Indeed,
just the opposite will occur and the rig will tend to float at a high RF
voltage while transmitting. The reason is that 23 feet of wire is about 1/4
wavelength at 30 meters. A 1/4 wavelength long wire inverts the impedance
seen at each end. If the end at the earth ground is truly grounded, the
other end of the wire at the rig will be at a very high impedance. In short,
the copper ground wire will look like an excellent RF insulator at 30
meters. 

Most situations aren't that simple, but it gives a good example of how a
seemingly innocent ground wire running to a good earth ground may not
provide an RF ground at all. Even a 10 foot wire or less will show
substantial impedance at 30 meters and hold the rig well above RF ground. 

We can put that impedance inversion that occurs at the ends of a 1/4 wave
long wire to work for us to produce a simple, effective RF ground. Connect
one end of the wire to the rig and insulate the other end. The insulated end
is forced to be at a high RF impedance, so the rig end is, by definition, at
a low RF impedance (i.e. at RF ground). It is important to insulate the far
end of the 1/4 wavelength long wire, not just to avoid RF burns while
transmitting, but to force it to remain at a high impedance.

That technique gets the ground impedance down in the vicinity of 35 ohms,
which is generally a very good RF ground (most grounds using ground stakes
or a few radials on or buried in the ground have an impedance in the range
of hundreds of ohms at RF). The value can be lowered even further though by
shortening the wire and then resonating it to a 1/4 wavelength on the
operating frequency. Some companies sell 'tuners' specifically for this
purpose. MFJ makes one called an Artificial Ground. They are also easy to
construct. Basically, all that's needed is a loading coil. A coil and
capacitor may be easier to tune because the taps on the coil become less
critical. A low-power 'antenna tuner' can also be used. 

What we're doing is turning something that is a big problem if we're making
an antenna into an advantage to make a good RF ground. When we're forced to
use an electrically short antenna that we resonate to 1/4 wave long using
loading coils or an antenna tuner, we have to accept relatively low
efficiency because such an antenna has a very low RF impedance. The shorter
we make it, the lower the feed point impedance. The lower the feed point
impedance the lower the efficiency. 

If we use it as an RF ground, we put that low impedance to work for us. By
resonating a short wire at 1/4 wavelength at the operating frequency and
connecting it to the rig ground, we supply a very low RF impedance that
keeps troublesome RF voltages off of the rig. The disadvantage of such a
ground is that the system Q, or sharpness of tuning, gets high. That means
that for a given adjustment, it will provide an effective RF ground over a
fairly narrow range of frequencies. Such systems normally must be retuned
whenever you QSY around within the band more than a few kHz. That can be a
pain to do and rather defeats the convenience of an automatic antenna tuner!


For that reason, most operators use a 1/4 wavelength long wire, which has a
low enough impedance to provide an effective RF ground for most purposes and
which still has a low enough Q that it doesn't need adjustment while tuning
across the band. 

Ron AC7AC

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