Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2021-12-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Snowy,

I am glad to hear that it is now working for you.  It sounds like you 
had a soldering problem somewhere.
A surplus of solder usually means that the lead and solder pad were not 
heated sufficiently.
If you have other areas where you find excess solder, just reheat and if 
necessary, wick away the excess - you may have a fully functional K2 
sooner than you think.


It sounds as though some (or perhaps all) of the K2 A to B mods were 
installed in an attempt to get it working.
Which of the group of mods is installed is important to keeping track of 
the level of the K2.
You may want to download the K2ATOB instructions and all the other mod 
instructions to do a physical check of the installed components.  
Knowing the level of mods installed is important when chasing problems.  
Make a log of the A to B mods installed for future reference.  The  
level of the IF crystals  on the RF board and the KSB2 option is also 
important to having a good filter response - those crystals should be 
marked with a "-S" suffix.K2s above SN 2560 have the new crystals.


If the wiring mod for the sidetone source with firmware 2.04 has not 
been installed, do it.  It is required for the
KIO2 or the KPA100 (see the instructions for those options) .  If you 
have MCU 2.04r firmware it is mandatory  - you will not have sidetone 
without it.  If your firmware is 2.04P or earlier set the menu sidetone 
to U4-8.


73 - Merry Christmas and Happy New Year,
Don W3FPR

On 12/19/2021 5:36 PM, snowy howell via Elecraft wrote:
Good Evening Don Sorry for the late reply, not used to the format of  > the reflector and stumbled onto your suggestions to solve my BFO > 
problem. I am please to say that I have now got it working > correctly. 
Getting nowhere with the test I decided to dismantle the > radio down to 
just the RF board, removed a surplus of solder from the > D36/37 area, 
re-flowed the pins of U10, lifted the leg of the 5.1meg > resistor and 
L33, didn’t know about the rubber bung being conductive > however once 
again removed a surplus of solder from that area, I also > added a small 
cut of insulation tape to form a bed for the resistor > on L33, thinking 
that turns may be shorted, at this point I ought to > explain I 
purchased this as a built but non worker, it is an early > radio as it 
has a Rev A mother-board with a small pot for R60 and an > early control 
board with the 12v switch rather than the berg > connectors, I have 
built 5 or 6 of these for people and never had a > problem certainly not 
as many faults as this one appears to have had, > there is no serial 
number on the radio, but it has had the PLL > thermistor conversion as 
well as the D36 done. Have to thank Dave for > sticking with me on this 
one, without his guidance I would still be > trying to sort the PLL 
problem. > > Have a good Christmas and New Year 2022 > > 73 > > Snowy 
G0HZE > > Sent from Mail for Windows > > 
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Elecraft mailing list Home: > 
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: > 
http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: > mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this > 
email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to > 
d...@w3fpr.com

ere
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2021-12-19 Thread snowy howell via Elecraft
Good Evening Don
Sorry for the late reply, not used to the format of the reflector and stumbled 
onto your suggestions to solve my BFO problem.
I am please to say that I have now got it working correctly.
Getting nowhere with the test I decided to dismantle the radio down to just the 
RF board, removed a surplus of solder from the D36/37 area, re-flowed the pins 
of U10, lifted the leg of the 5.1meg resistor and L33, didn’t know about the 
rubber bung being conductive however once again removed a surplus of solder 
from that area, I also added a small cut of insulation tape to form a bed for 
the resistor on L33, thinking that turns may be shorted, at this point I ought 
to explain I purchased this as a built but non worker, it is an early radio as 
it has a Rev A mother-board with a small pot for R60 and an early control board 
with the 12v switch rather than the berg connectors, I have built 5 or 6 of 
these for people and never had a problem certainly not as many faults as this 
one appears to have had, there is no serial number on the radio, but it has had 
the PLL thermistor conversion as well as the D36 done.
Have to thank Dave for sticking with me on this one, without his guidance I 
would still be trying to sort the PLL problem.

Have a good Christmas and New Year 2022

73

Snowy G0HZE

Sent from Mail for Windows

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2021-12-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Snowy,

It sounds as though you have the proper BFO crystals installed at X3 and X4.

Do check the values of C173 and C174 first
Then check L33 to make certain it is well soldered and the leads are 
attached to the 1/8 watt resistor leads.
Check D37 and D38 to be certain they are oriented properly and well 
soldered.


Lastly, lift one side of L33 (and its resistor and remove the rubber pad 
- check the resistance of the pad itself - there were a few (a while 
ago) that were found to be conductive causing problems such as yours.  
Since you did not state the vintage (or serial number of the K2), do 
that check if those items above do not correct the problem.


While you have the rubber pad out, make certain that about 1/2 of the 
stem has been cut away.  That is to allow the 1/8 watt resistor to be 
pushed down into the center of L33 to tighten the leads and hold L33 
securely in place.


If the rubber pad under L33 is found to be conductive, get a new one 
from Elecraft, or -- If you have an unassembled KAT2, you will find 
several of the rubber bumpers in that kit - a conductive one will work 
fine in the KAT2, but not in the BFO circuit.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/16/2021 5:35 PM, ROLAND HOWELL via Elecraft wrote:


having repaired my PLL problem with a great deal of help and advice 
from Dave at tech support, Elecraft i moved onto the next set of tests 
which was the bfo frequencies, on selecting CAL, Counter i get a 
reading of 4.9136, on pressing either the band up or down all i get is 
zero's.

Fitted crystals are 4.91s in X3 and X4 positions
Have checked all the details in the trouble shooting paragraph, i can 
find no fault with any of the components, all values and positions are 
correct.

I have to add that this was purchased as a non-runner.
Any advice appreciated
Snowy,G0HZE
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem, need JFET advice

2011-07-01 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Tyler,

Since you have low audio output during receive, I would suggest you are 
looking in the wrong place.
Q24 is not involved during receive, and will show no signal at TP2 
during receive.

The 400 mV at the gate of Q24 is just fine.  Put the K2 menu into CAL 
FCTR and then check the RF level at TP2 - it should be somewhere between 
25 and 70 millivolts.

You may be in for some Signal Tracing.  Use the steps found in Appendix 
E of the manual.

On 7/1/2011 10:45 AM, Tyler Barnett wrote:
 Symptom:

 K2 with very low audio output, only the strongest stations can be copied.
 Have eliminated the BPF, attenuator, pre-amp, and so forth with signal 
 tracing.
 Transmit stops increasing at about 4W, the control runs out of effect.
 So the K2 is alive, but something is wrong in the signal path.

 The BFO area was redone with a mod (which I have no paperwork on, somebody 
 else's radio).
 The components were dead-bugged onto the area around the T33 BFO toroid, and 
 I believe they shorted out on the bottom cover.
 Using the included kit RF probe, test point TP2 has only 1 millivolt on it, 
 but Q24 has about 0.4Vrms on the gate, which is fed from U11 pin 6 and 
 through the BFO components.

 Thus, it appears to be a blown Q24, which is a JFET  J310.
 Radio Shack has a MPF102, would that be OK to use?
 I've checked the respective datasheets of J310 vs MPF102, and I haven't found 
 much difference in ratings, even the noise figure is about the same.

 Your comments appreciated ASAP!


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2010-07-23 Thread Ken Mohler
You were right, Don, as usual.  The problem was an unsoldered point on the
control board. I was looking on the wrong board the whole time. All tests
and adjustments on Part II are complete and I'm moving forward.  Thanks for
all the help!

Ken
K0WKM

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 9:06 AM
To: Ken Mohler
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

Ken,

You are likely chasing a bad solder connection - things that change by 
themselves is usually an indication of a solder problem.
You are getting close if it was the Q24 drain voltage changing.  Check 
RF Board R98, and then go to the Control Board and check the components 
shown on the Control Board schematic area marked ALC (at the top of 
the page).  Double-check the position of the components soldered on the 
back of the board.   When in CAL FCTR, tapping BAND+ should result in a 
high voltage on the VALC line, and tapping BAND-, it should drop to 
zero.  Don't forget to check the connectors between the Control Board 
and the RF Board.

73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2010-07-19 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ken,

You are likely chasing a bad solder connection - things that change by 
themselves is usually an indication of a solder problem.
You are getting close if it was the Q24 drain voltage changing.  Check 
RF Board R98, and then go to the Control Board and check the components 
shown on the Control Board schematic area marked ALC (at the top of 
the page).  Double-check the position of the components soldered on the 
back of the board.   When in CAL FCTR, tapping BAND+ should result in a 
high voltage on the VALC line, and tapping BAND-, it should drop to 
zero.  Don't forget to check the connectors between the Control Board 
and the RF Board.

73,
Don W3FPR

Ken Mohler wrote:
 Don -

 It gets weirder and weirder.  I did the test of the Q24 drain voltage.  When
 I tapped Band+ I got 3.4V.  BAND- dropped to a little less than a volt.
 Then I went on to check the following things you suggested.  Now here's
 where it got weird... I went back to redo the Q24 drain voltage and now I
 get around 0 volts no matter which BAND button I tap.  I didn't change
 anything - honest!  I'm less convinced that the problem lies within Q24.
 Perhaps Q24 is not getting the right signals from the other side. 

 My first K2 went together with nary a glitch, and I have been even more
 deliberate and careful with this one.

 If you still have the patience, suggest what I ought to do next.

 73,
 Ken
 K0WKM

 -Original Message-
 From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
 Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 7:57 PM
 To: Ken Mohler
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

 Ken,

 The fuzzy waveform on the 'scope is normal - but how much so is 
 difficult for me to say whether yours is normal or abnormal.

 Check the value of C169 - it should be 390 pF (marked 391).

 OK, the BFO is oscillating, so look at Q24 carefully - is it oriented 
 correctly?  If so, enter CAL FCTR and tap the BAND+ button while 
 measuring the voltage on the drain (see the schemastic key page if you 
 are not familiar with the pinout).  The voltage should go high(almost 8 
 volts), and then tap BAND- and the voltage should go nearly to zero.

 Other things to check - look for a solder bridge between pins 1 and 2 of 
 U10;, check the SMT1B for correct orientation; re-check the orientation 
 of D36, and check the soldering of R98, C168, D36, R99 and SMT1B.

 If all the above is correct, try replacing Q24.  If you have a J309 
 around, try that (if you have the KDSP2 kit, there are J309s in there).

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 Ken Mohler wrote:
   
 Don -

 You have me on the right track.  I have a valid frequency reading at pin 6
 of U11 and I can follow it back through L33 and C169 to the gate of Q24.
 
 The
   
 waveform gets fuzzier and has lower amplitude past L33 (I do have a scope)
 but is still countable at C169.  Past Q24 I don't have anything
 recognizable.  I have reflowed the solder on everything around there.  D36
 appears to be installed correctly. I don't have an extra J310 to swap out
 Q24, but will get one if you think that's the next step.  BTW, I measured
 the voltages at U11 and all are what you told me to expect except pin 8 is
 around 6 volts.  Still, the BFO seems to be working, just not getting
 anything as far as TP2.  Thanks for the help and please keep it coming.

 73,
 Ken
 K0WKM

 -Original Message-
 From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
 Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 6:49 PM
 To: Ken Mohler
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

 Ken,

 Did you obtain a good frequency reading when you did the PLL Reference 
 Oscillator test back on page 36?  If so, check the probe again by 
 putting the probe into either TP3 or TP1.  If you see a valid frequency 
 displayed, your probe is OK.

 The most common problem builders have are soldering problems.  Re-flow 
 the soldering in the BFO  and U11 area with a hot soldering iron (750 
 deg/F).  Also check carefully for solder bridges.  Unfortunately, one 
 lead of both X3 and X4 are under the pad for L33, so ignore those for 
 the time being (if nothing else works, Lift one end of the resistor 
 securing L33 and re-flow the soldering at those leads).
 Do you have near 8 volts at U11 pin 8?  Is U11 pin 1 and 2 close to 1.4 
 volts?  Do you have about 6 volts at U11 pin 6?

 Touch the counter probe to U11 pin 6 (careful not to short to an 
 adjacent pin).  Do you have a valid frequency reading?  If you do, then 
 the BFO is working, and the problem is with Q24 and its associated 
 components.  Be certain you have mounted D36 (the SMT1B) part correctly, 
 and the soldering of Q24, RP6, R98, and R99 is good.

 If still no progress, either assemble the parts provided in your K2 kit 
 for the RF Probe (schematic in Appendix E) or let us know that you have 
 an oscilloscope available.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Ken Mohler wrote:
   
 
 Hi Gang -

  

 I'm building my 2nd K2 and am at the point of Alignment and Test, Part

Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2010-07-18 Thread Ken Mohler
Don -

It gets weirder and weirder.  I did the test of the Q24 drain voltage.  When
I tapped Band+ I got 3.4V.  BAND- dropped to a little less than a volt.
Then I went on to check the following things you suggested.  Now here's
where it got weird... I went back to redo the Q24 drain voltage and now I
get around 0 volts no matter which BAND button I tap.  I didn't change
anything - honest!  I'm less convinced that the problem lies within Q24.
Perhaps Q24 is not getting the right signals from the other side. 

My first K2 went together with nary a glitch, and I have been even more
deliberate and careful with this one.

If you still have the patience, suggest what I ought to do next.

73,
Ken
K0WKM

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 7:57 PM
To: Ken Mohler
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

Ken,

The fuzzy waveform on the 'scope is normal - but how much so is 
difficult for me to say whether yours is normal or abnormal.

Check the value of C169 - it should be 390 pF (marked 391).

OK, the BFO is oscillating, so look at Q24 carefully - is it oriented 
correctly?  If so, enter CAL FCTR and tap the BAND+ button while 
measuring the voltage on the drain (see the schemastic key page if you 
are not familiar with the pinout).  The voltage should go high(almost 8 
volts), and then tap BAND- and the voltage should go nearly to zero.

Other things to check - look for a solder bridge between pins 1 and 2 of 
U10;, check the SMT1B for correct orientation; re-check the orientation 
of D36, and check the soldering of R98, C168, D36, R99 and SMT1B.

If all the above is correct, try replacing Q24.  If you have a J309 
around, try that (if you have the KDSP2 kit, there are J309s in there).

73,
Don W3FPR


Ken Mohler wrote:
 Don -

 You have me on the right track.  I have a valid frequency reading at pin 6
 of U11 and I can follow it back through L33 and C169 to the gate of Q24.
The
 waveform gets fuzzier and has lower amplitude past L33 (I do have a scope)
 but is still countable at C169.  Past Q24 I don't have anything
 recognizable.  I have reflowed the solder on everything around there.  D36
 appears to be installed correctly. I don't have an extra J310 to swap out
 Q24, but will get one if you think that's the next step.  BTW, I measured
 the voltages at U11 and all are what you told me to expect except pin 8 is
 around 6 volts.  Still, the BFO seems to be working, just not getting
 anything as far as TP2.  Thanks for the help and please keep it coming.

 73,
 Ken
 K0WKM

 -Original Message-
 From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
 Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 6:49 PM
 To: Ken Mohler
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

 Ken,

 Did you obtain a good frequency reading when you did the PLL Reference 
 Oscillator test back on page 36?  If so, check the probe again by 
 putting the probe into either TP3 or TP1.  If you see a valid frequency 
 displayed, your probe is OK.

 The most common problem builders have are soldering problems.  Re-flow 
 the soldering in the BFO  and U11 area with a hot soldering iron (750 
 deg/F).  Also check carefully for solder bridges.  Unfortunately, one 
 lead of both X3 and X4 are under the pad for L33, so ignore those for 
 the time being (if nothing else works, Lift one end of the resistor 
 securing L33 and re-flow the soldering at those leads).
 Do you have near 8 volts at U11 pin 8?  Is U11 pin 1 and 2 close to 1.4 
 volts?  Do you have about 6 volts at U11 pin 6?

 Touch the counter probe to U11 pin 6 (careful not to short to an 
 adjacent pin).  Do you have a valid frequency reading?  If you do, then 
 the BFO is working, and the problem is with Q24 and its associated 
 components.  Be certain you have mounted D36 (the SMT1B) part correctly, 
 and the soldering of Q24, RP6, R98, and R99 is good.

 If still no progress, either assemble the parts provided in your K2 kit 
 for the RF Probe (schematic in Appendix E) or let us know that you have 
 an oscilloscope available.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Ken Mohler wrote:
   
 Hi Gang -

  

 I'm building my 2nd K2 and am at the point of Alignment and Test, Part
II.
 All of the tests and alignment steps through the VCO alignment have been
 completed successfully.  Everything has been right in the center of the
 expected parameters.  Then I got to the BFO test.  I'm getting a reading
 
 of
   
 .00.  Here's what I know so far:  D37 and D38 are the correct types
 
 and
   
 oriented properly.  I have measured the resistance across the resistor
 holding L33 down (or up?) and get a reading of 1.5 ohms, indicating to me
 that L33 is intact and effectively soldered to the resistor leads.  I
have
 checked the positioning of Q24 and it looks correct.  The right crystals
 
 are
   
 installed at X3 and X4 and grounding the cases went smoothly, so I don't
 think I overheated them.  I have

Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2010-07-17 Thread John Fritze
Ken,

Make sure you have your probe plugged into the correct jack.  Sounds
like what first happened to me, until I turned the rig around (back to
me) I forgot there were 2 jacks.  Probably not the problem, but hey,
you never know.

John
K2QY
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2010-07-17 Thread Ken Mohler
Don -

You have me on the right track.  I have a valid frequency reading at pin 6
of U11 and I can follow it back through L33 and C169 to the gate of Q24. The
waveform gets fuzzier and has lower amplitude past L33 (I do have a scope)
but is still countable at C169.  Past Q24 I don't have anything
recognizable.  I have reflowed the solder on everything around there.  D36
appears to be installed correctly. I don't have an extra J310 to swap out
Q24, but will get one if you think that's the next step.  BTW, I measured
the voltages at U11 and all are what you told me to expect except pin 8 is
around 6 volts.  Still, the BFO seems to be working, just not getting
anything as far as TP2.  Thanks for the help and please keep it coming.

73,
Ken
K0WKM

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 6:49 PM
To: Ken Mohler
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

Ken,

Did you obtain a good frequency reading when you did the PLL Reference 
Oscillator test back on page 36?  If so, check the probe again by 
putting the probe into either TP3 or TP1.  If you see a valid frequency 
displayed, your probe is OK.

The most common problem builders have are soldering problems.  Re-flow 
the soldering in the BFO  and U11 area with a hot soldering iron (750 
deg/F).  Also check carefully for solder bridges.  Unfortunately, one 
lead of both X3 and X4 are under the pad for L33, so ignore those for 
the time being (if nothing else works, Lift one end of the resistor 
securing L33 and re-flow the soldering at those leads).
Do you have near 8 volts at U11 pin 8?  Is U11 pin 1 and 2 close to 1.4 
volts?  Do you have about 6 volts at U11 pin 6?

Touch the counter probe to U11 pin 6 (careful not to short to an 
adjacent pin).  Do you have a valid frequency reading?  If you do, then 
the BFO is working, and the problem is with Q24 and its associated 
components.  Be certain you have mounted D36 (the SMT1B) part correctly, 
and the soldering of Q24, RP6, R98, and R99 is good.

If still no progress, either assemble the parts provided in your K2 kit 
for the RF Probe (schematic in Appendix E) or let us know that you have 
an oscilloscope available.

73,
Don W3FPR

Ken Mohler wrote:
 Hi Gang -

  

 I'm building my 2nd K2 and am at the point of Alignment and Test, Part II.
 All of the tests and alignment steps through the VCO alignment have been
 completed successfully.  Everything has been right in the center of the
 expected parameters.  Then I got to the BFO test.  I'm getting a reading
of
 .00.  Here's what I know so far:  D37 and D38 are the correct types
and
 oriented properly.  I have measured the resistance across the resistor
 holding L33 down (or up?) and get a reading of 1.5 ohms, indicating to me
 that L33 is intact and effectively soldered to the resistor leads.  I have
 checked the positioning of Q24 and it looks correct.  The right crystals
are
 installed at X3 and X4 and grounding the cases went smoothly, so I don't
 think I overheated them.  I have reflowed the solder on the parts around
the
 BFO area.  A symptom that may or may not mean anything: the S-Meter is
 showing S5.  It was properly adjusted back in Alignment and Testing Part
I.
 What should I do next?

   

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2010-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ken,

The fuzzy waveform on the 'scope is normal - but how much so is 
difficult for me to say whether yours is normal or abnormal.

Check the value of C169 - it should be 390 pF (marked 391).

OK, the BFO is oscillating, so look at Q24 carefully - is it oriented 
correctly?  If so, enter CAL FCTR and tap the BAND+ button while 
measuring the voltage on the drain (see the schemastic key page if you 
are not familiar with the pinout).  The voltage should go high(almost 8 
volts), and then tap BAND- and the voltage should go nearly to zero.

Other things to check - look for a solder bridge between pins 1 and 2 of 
U10;, check the SMT1B for correct orientation; re-check the orientation 
of D36, and check the soldering of R98, C168, D36, R99 and SMT1B.

If all the above is correct, try replacing Q24.  If you have a J309 
around, try that (if you have the KDSP2 kit, there are J309s in there).

73,
Don W3FPR


Ken Mohler wrote:
 Don -

 You have me on the right track.  I have a valid frequency reading at pin 6
 of U11 and I can follow it back through L33 and C169 to the gate of Q24. The
 waveform gets fuzzier and has lower amplitude past L33 (I do have a scope)
 but is still countable at C169.  Past Q24 I don't have anything
 recognizable.  I have reflowed the solder on everything around there.  D36
 appears to be installed correctly. I don't have an extra J310 to swap out
 Q24, but will get one if you think that's the next step.  BTW, I measured
 the voltages at U11 and all are what you told me to expect except pin 8 is
 around 6 volts.  Still, the BFO seems to be working, just not getting
 anything as far as TP2.  Thanks for the help and please keep it coming.

 73,
 Ken
 K0WKM

 -Original Message-
 From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
 Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 6:49 PM
 To: Ken Mohler
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

 Ken,

 Did you obtain a good frequency reading when you did the PLL Reference 
 Oscillator test back on page 36?  If so, check the probe again by 
 putting the probe into either TP3 or TP1.  If you see a valid frequency 
 displayed, your probe is OK.

 The most common problem builders have are soldering problems.  Re-flow 
 the soldering in the BFO  and U11 area with a hot soldering iron (750 
 deg/F).  Also check carefully for solder bridges.  Unfortunately, one 
 lead of both X3 and X4 are under the pad for L33, so ignore those for 
 the time being (if nothing else works, Lift one end of the resistor 
 securing L33 and re-flow the soldering at those leads).
 Do you have near 8 volts at U11 pin 8?  Is U11 pin 1 and 2 close to 1.4 
 volts?  Do you have about 6 volts at U11 pin 6?

 Touch the counter probe to U11 pin 6 (careful not to short to an 
 adjacent pin).  Do you have a valid frequency reading?  If you do, then 
 the BFO is working, and the problem is with Q24 and its associated 
 components.  Be certain you have mounted D36 (the SMT1B) part correctly, 
 and the soldering of Q24, RP6, R98, and R99 is good.

 If still no progress, either assemble the parts provided in your K2 kit 
 for the RF Probe (schematic in Appendix E) or let us know that you have 
 an oscilloscope available.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Ken Mohler wrote:
   
 Hi Gang -

  

 I'm building my 2nd K2 and am at the point of Alignment and Test, Part II.
 All of the tests and alignment steps through the VCO alignment have been
 completed successfully.  Everything has been right in the center of the
 expected parameters.  Then I got to the BFO test.  I'm getting a reading
 
 of
   
 .00.  Here's what I know so far:  D37 and D38 are the correct types
 
 and
   
 oriented properly.  I have measured the resistance across the resistor
 holding L33 down (or up?) and get a reading of 1.5 ohms, indicating to me
 that L33 is intact and effectively soldered to the resistor leads.  I have
 checked the positioning of Q24 and it looks correct.  The right crystals
 
 are
   
 installed at X3 and X4 and grounding the cases went smoothly, so I don't
 think I overheated them.  I have reflowed the solder on the parts around
 
 the
   
 BFO area.  A symptom that may or may not mean anything: the S-Meter is
 showing S5.  It was properly adjusted back in Alignment and Testing Part
 
 I.
   
 What should I do next?

   
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

2010-07-16 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ken,

Did you obtain a good frequency reading when you did the PLL Reference 
Oscillator test back on page 36?  If so, check the probe again by 
putting the probe into either TP3 or TP1.  If you see a valid frequency 
displayed, your probe is OK.

The most common problem builders have are soldering problems.  Re-flow 
the soldering in the BFO  and U11 area with a hot soldering iron (750 
deg/F).  Also check carefully for solder bridges.  Unfortunately, one 
lead of both X3 and X4 are under the pad for L33, so ignore those for 
the time being (if nothing else works, Lift one end of the resistor 
securing L33 and re-flow the soldering at those leads).
Do you have near 8 volts at U11 pin 8?  Is U11 pin 1 and 2 close to 1.4 
volts?  Do you have about 6 volts at U11 pin 6?

Touch the counter probe to U11 pin 6 (careful not to short to an 
adjacent pin).  Do you have a valid frequency reading?  If you do, then 
the BFO is working, and the problem is with Q24 and its associated 
components.  Be certain you have mounted D36 (the SMT1B) part correctly, 
and the soldering of Q24, RP6, R98, and R99 is good.

If still no progress, either assemble the parts provided in your K2 kit 
for the RF Probe (schematic in Appendix E) or let us know that you have 
an oscilloscope available.

73,
Don W3FPR

Ken Mohler wrote:
 Hi Gang -

  

 I'm building my 2nd K2 and am at the point of Alignment and Test, Part II.
 All of the tests and alignment steps through the VCO alignment have been
 completed successfully.  Everything has been right in the center of the
 expected parameters.  Then I got to the BFO test.  I'm getting a reading of
 .00.  Here's what I know so far:  D37 and D38 are the correct types and
 oriented properly.  I have measured the resistance across the resistor
 holding L33 down (or up?) and get a reading of 1.5 ohms, indicating to me
 that L33 is intact and effectively soldered to the resistor leads.  I have
 checked the positioning of Q24 and it looks correct.  The right crystals are
 installed at X3 and X4 and grounding the cases went smoothly, so I don't
 think I overheated them.  I have reflowed the solder on the parts around the
 BFO area.  A symptom that may or may not mean anything: the S-Meter is
 showing S5.  It was properly adjusted back in Alignment and Testing Part I.
 What should I do next?

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem - need suggestions

2010-06-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

That behavior is indicative of a bad solder connection.  The main 
components in the BFO area are X3 and X4, C173 and C174, D37 and D38, 
L33, and RP6.  The path to the TP2 BFO counter probe also includes Q24, 
C169, R98 and C168, but since the  problem seems to be frequency 
oriented, I would suggest that the last list is only of secondary concern..

On a 4 year old K2, I believe you have the yellow core toroid at L33.  
You may do well to upgrade with the BFOMDKT which will provide an extra 
degree of temperature stability for the BFO.  If you have the L33 toroid 
wound with #36 wire (many turns, comes pre-wound), then you already have 
that mod installed.

It is also possible that you have a bad BFO crystal, but check out the 
other possibilities before reaching that conclusion.  Of course, if you 
have to order parts from Elecraft, it is probably more economical to 
just order the BFO crystals at the same time whether they are needed or not.

73,
Don W3FPR

Elmore's wrote:
 Greetings everyone,
 I have a 4+ year old K2 which has provided spotless service for me until 
 recently. I began to have an audio issue in that on power up I would not 
 have audio. I could get it back intermittently by either powering down and 
 back up or by switching through the modes.
 In doing some basic troubleshooting I discovered that by touching the 
 L33 coil in the BFO I would have audio again. While checking the BFO 
 frequency using the internal frequency counter I discovered that when I did 
 not have audio the frequency was reading either 4.5 or 5.5 Mhz depending on 
 the sideband selected. After regaining audio the frequency would be back at 
 4.9 MHz.
 Thus, it appears the oscillator is oscillating but at an incorrect 
 frequency until I introduce my body capacitance.
 Can anyone help me in troubleshooting so that I could isolate the 
 component or does anyone know of the most likely cause of such a problem?
 Thanks fo your help,
 Jim WA4YWM 

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