RE: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-26 Thread Dean Gerard (gdean)


We are users of many types of electro-medical equipment, all of which we
subject to basic safety testing before placing into service in our hospital.

Our experience is that metal-to-metal is the only relaible means of chassis
earth-bonding. We regularly find that equipment delivered to us which has
relied upon star-washers or other types of fastening to cut through surface
coatings to achieve reliable bonding fails to do so properly, leaving
accessible parts at intermediate resistances to earth.
(The use of rasping fasteners may produce satisfactory results on the
individual device sent for type-testing, but it would appear to be difficult
to consistently achieve the same result on the assembly-line) 

Ged Dean,
Nottingham City Hospital,
UK.




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RE: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-25 Thread Price, Ed


-Original Message-
From: Ron Pickard [mailto:rpick...@hypercom.com]
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 7:28 AM
To: jo...@exchange.scotland.ncr.com
Cc: emc-p...@ieee.org
Subject: RE: chassis bonding - star washers enough?




Hi John,

You wrote:

We use screws which have combined hex/posidriv heads with
serrations under the head, which eliminates the need for star washers.
We find these work very well for zinc plated parts. On epoxy painted
parts,  they also seem to cut thru the paint and give a satisfactory
result - you might feel happier if you have more than one screw
for any given part.

Using these screw types may be satisfactory at the time of 
production, but what will be expected
when the product is placed into service and into varying 
environments? Will the newly exposed
chassis surfaces (I agree that they would very small) become 
so oxidized that the oxidation leaches
to the satisfactory ground connection? Probably not, but 
IMHO, due diligence might prescribe an
evaluation.

We also use self-clinching PEM nuts with good results.
Typically we find that where a grounding conductor has been
brought to a particular area of our products, we would still
pass the 0.1 ohm, 25A test when we remove the conductor.

May I ask how you pass this test when, as you stated, the 
conductor is removed (just curious).
Please provide clarification.

Best regards,

Ron Pickard
rpick...@hypercom.com



PEM nuts may have their proper place, but I don't like to use them, since
they are prone to being driven out by the pressure applied to a bolt during
tightening. If the assembler just leans on the bolt a little, the nut pushes
out of the clinch, and then spins in the bolt. This can turn into a bad
problem if the nut is in a blind area.

I prefer to use Rivnuts, which clench with a shoulder on the front surface
and a deformation area on the rear. These will not fall out with axial
loading.

Regards,

Ed


Ed Price
ed.pr...@cubic.com
Electromagnetic Compatibility Lab
Cubic Defense Systems
San Diego, CA  USA
858-505-2780  (Voice)
858-505-1583  (Fax)
Military  Avionics EMC Services Is Our Specialty
Shake-Bake-Shock - Metrology - Reliability Analysis

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RE: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-25 Thread Crabb, John

I knew I shouldn't have commented on this subject !!

We perform the IEC 60950 grounding test by connecting our 
25A source between the ground pin of the mains cord and 
the metalwork we want to check - and measure the volt drop
between the two points. If the surface was painted, we 
might have to dig through the coating with our test probe.
Basically, our products consist of many steel parts all 
screwed together, most of them plated, but some of them 
painted. Where we have an ac operated module within our 
products, such as a printer, monitor, or power supply,
invariably with a plated chassis, (screwed down 
with the afore-mentioned screws), we supply it from a 3 core cord, 
but if we removed the ground wire from this cord (which 
would run back to an ac distribution circuit), there is no 
noticeable difference in the results we get.

Regards,
John Crabb, Development Excellence (Product Safety) , 
NCR  Financial Solutions Group Ltd.,  Discovery Centre, 
3 Fulton Road, Dundee, Scotland, DD2 4SW
E-Mail :john.cr...@scotland.ncr.com
Tel: +44 (0)1382-592289  (direct ). Fax +44 (0)1382-622243. 



-Original Message-
From: Ron Pickard [mailto:rpick...@hypercom.com]
Sent: 25 March 2002 15:28
To: Crabb, John
Cc: emc-p...@ieee.org
Subject: RE: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

Hi John,

You wrote:

We use screws which have combined hex/posidriv heads with
serrations under the head, which eliminates the need for star washers.
We find these work very well for zinc plated parts. On epoxy painted
parts,  they also seem to cut thru the paint and give a satisfactory
result - you might feel happier if you have more than one screw
for any given part.

Using these screw types may be satisfactory at the time of production, but
what will be expected
when the product is placed into service and into varying environments? Will
the newly exposed
chassis surfaces (I agree that they would very small) become so oxidized
that the oxidation leaches
to the satisfactory ground connection? Probably not, but IMHO, due
diligence might prescribe an
evaluation.

We also use self-clinching PEM nuts with good results.
Typically we find that where a grounding conductor has been
brought to a particular area of our products, we would still
pass the 0.1 ohm, 25A test when we remove the conductor.

May I ask how you pass this test when, as you stated, the conductor is
removed (just curious).
Please provide clarification.

Best regards,

Ron Pickard
rpick...@hypercom.com


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RE: Masking - was: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-25 Thread Price, Ed


-Original Message-
From: Doug McKean [mailto:dmck...@corp.auspex.com]
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 6:16 AM
To: EMC-PSTC Discussion Group
Subject: Re: Masking - was: chassis bonding - star washers enough?



Very good question.  

In my experience, the corrosion issue with 
regard to masked off areas has never been 
a factor.  Yes, it will corrode, but the teeth 
will cut through that.  The masking off of 
areas has also been internal to the product. 
Yes, I've also used the star washers on painted 
areas (non-conductive paint at that) without 
a problem, but my *preference* is masked 
off areas. 

If you're subjecting your product to some 
extremes in environment other than normal 
office environment, then corrosion will most 
definitely be a concern. 

If you're going to use star washers on surfaces 
painted with non-conductive paint, then you 
may want to consider using a torque wrench 
for securing the nuts or bolts during assembly. 

Regards, Doug McKean 



The military generally doesn't like toothed lockwashers because:

1. As the teeth cut into the surface, you generate bits of paint and base
metal particles. That's not nice, because the particles can cause mechanical
and electrical problems.
2. Any fault current is conducted through the relatively small cross-section
contact points. This can result in arcing and even vaporization of the
conductive path.

Look at MIL-B-5087 for typical military bonding and ground stud practices.


Regards,

Ed


Ed Price
ed.pr...@cubic.com
Electromagnetic Compatibility Lab
Cubic Defense Systems
San Diego, CA  USA
858-505-2780  (Voice)
858-505-1583  (Fax)
Military  Avionics EMC Services Is Our Specialty
Shake-Bake-Shock - Metrology - Reliability Analysis

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RE: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-25 Thread Ron Pickard


Hi John,

You wrote:

We use screws which have combined hex/posidriv heads with
serrations under the head, which eliminates the need for star washers.
We find these work very well for zinc plated parts. On epoxy painted
parts,  they also seem to cut thru the paint and give a satisfactory
result - you might feel happier if you have more than one screw
for any given part.

Using these screw types may be satisfactory at the time of production, but 
what will be expected
when the product is placed into service and into varying environments? Will the 
newly exposed
chassis surfaces (I agree that they would very small) become so oxidized that 
the oxidation leaches
to the satisfactory ground connection? Probably not, but IMHO, due diligence 
might prescribe an
evaluation.

We also use self-clinching PEM nuts with good results.
Typically we find that where a grounding conductor has been
brought to a particular area of our products, we would still
pass the 0.1 ohm, 25A test when we remove the conductor.

May I ask how you pass this test when, as you stated, the conductor is removed 
(just curious).
Please provide clarification.

Best regards,

Ron Pickard
rpick...@hypercom.com



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Re: Masking - was: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-25 Thread Doug McKean

Very good question.  

In my experience, the corrosion issue with 
regard to masked off areas has never been 
a factor.  Yes, it will corrode, but the teeth 
will cut through that.  The masking off of 
areas has also been internal to the product. 
Yes, I've also used the star washers on painted 
areas (non-conductive paint at that) without 
a problem, but my *preference* is masked 
off areas. 

If you're subjecting your product to some 
extremes in environment other than normal 
office environment, then corrosion will most 
definitely be a concern. 

If you're going to use star washers on surfaces 
painted with non-conductive paint, then you 
may want to consider using a torque wrench 
for securing the nuts or bolts during assembly. 

Regards, Doug McKean 



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Re: Masking - was: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-25 Thread T.Sato

On Fri, 22 Mar 2002 16:53:27 -0800,
  Chris Wells cdwe...@stargate.net wrote:

 Masking
 As to all those who indicate masking off the metal what about oxidation?
 I'm concerned about the appearance of masking off the painted areas.

To avoid corrosion of the exposed steel surface, plating (Zn, Ni,
Cr, etc.) can be used.

You can mask off only the areas of metal plates where they will be
covered by the other metal plates when the enclosure is assembled
(i.e. area where the metal surface will contact with the other
metal surface), hence it can be designed so that it will not make
the appearance poor.

Regards,
Tom

--
Tomonori Sato  vef00...@nifty.ne.jp
URL: http://member.nifty.ne.jp/tsato/
   xvkbd-2.2 (virtual keyboard for X) available 


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Masking - was: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-23 Thread Chris Wells
Thanks for all the feedback - some very good info!

Masking
As to all those who indicate masking off the metal what about oxidation?
I'm concerned about the appearance of masking off the painted areas.
Can the screw be coated after assembly?
Hard to take apart for sure..

I have some problems with masking.
I have no issue with the electrical/mechanical principles
But it seems that the appearance will be very poor and the effort to accomplish 
high.
I suppose that is why plated surfaces are preferred..

What about conductive paint?
Too expensive?
Appearance?

Chris Wells
Senior Design Engineer
Cutler-Hammer
christopherdwe...@eaton.com

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Message-ID: 003e01c1d1f5$bc67da80$cb3e3...@corp.auspex.com
From: Doug McKean dmck...@corp.auspex.com
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altdp7bac3m8e...@jmwa.demon.co.uk
Subject: Re: chassis bonding - star washers enough?
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John Woodgate j...@jmwa.demon.co.uk

 Brilliant! Next: teeth both internal and external (I've seen some, but
 they are very rare). And after that, quick-release bolts, so that the
 washer can be easily taken off for microscopic inspection and
 metallurgical tests.

chuckle
Personally John, I'm waiting for the hand-held metallurgical
photo-microscopy micro-fracture x-ray scanner to be required.
But I hear it's held up in the test lab due to some problems with
the star washers they're using or somethin ... - Doug McKean



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RE: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-22 Thread Robert Wilson

Some answers to your questions:

- Star washers (internal, not external) will cut through any normal paints, 
including powder paints. I have never seen a situation where fully tightening a 
screw would fail to make a good connection if an internal tooth lock washer was 
used. But having said that, there are those who would say that this cannot be 
definitely proven, and so paint masking under the screw will be necessary, if 
only to make people (i.e. UL etc.) feel more comfortable.

- Standard internal tooth lock washers are as good as it gets.

- Star washers do make a gas-tight seal when the screw is tightened properly. 
Light oxidation becomes irrelevant, as does re-oxidation at the contact points.

- Because of the aforementioned gas-tight connection, special surface 
treatments are not beneficial.

- PEM nuts ARE self clinching. Because they cause metal to flow under very 
high pressure, they make a gas-tight connection to the metal they are inserted 
into. Any type of PEM (or similar other brand) nut is as good as any other in 
this regard. The differences are in the nut part, not the way that metal is 
displaced when inserting.

- The common type of captive lock washer screw is called a SEMS type, and is 
simply a normal screw with a normal internal tooth lock washer held captive by 
an undercut below the head. They function identically to screws with separate 
internal tooth lock washers.

- If a lock washer is used, there is no point in using an anerobic screw locker 
like Loctite. Nonetheless, because of the gas-tight nature of the lockwasher 
interface, the use of Loctite will not affect the electrical connection between 
washer and screw or part. The pressure at the points of the lockwasher 
amounts to many tens of thousands of psi. Any liquid (i.e. loctite) will be 
squeezed aside. As for preferred types. Anerobic thread lockers are all 
essentially the same (chemically), being based on a methacrylate ester 
formulation. Some are more viscous, others less so; some are more reactive 
(harden faster) others less so, but this matters little when they are subject 
to the extreme pressure at the points of the lockwasher.

- Use of a passivation coating like chromate conversion coating on zinc-plated 
steel (yellow, clear, or whatever), or Alodine on aluminum (also simply a 
type of chromate conversion coating) is a very good way to assure a stable 
interface under medium contact pressure. But its basic purpose is to ensure a 
consistent surface before connection is made. Since it is a sort of gel, 
literally mere MOLECULES thick, it is not going to affect a high pressure 
electrical connection in any way. It is common to hear people say that chromate 
coatings are conductive. This is completely false. Chromates are insulators. 
It is just that they are so thin that under influence of a high pressure 
connection, they are cut through with only minimal pressure. 

- Plating or coating treatments under aluminum or steel are useless as an aid 
to connection, since a) it is likely that it will be required to clear the 
paint under the screw head/lockwasher anyway, and b) the extreme pressure 
presented by the points of the lockwasher will cut through the coating and into 
the base metal. The main purpose for these coatings is paint adhesion. Proper 
paint adhesion to metal requires a conversion coating. For steel, phosphatizing 
is commonly used. For aluminum, Alodine chromate conversion is one of the 
common ones. For zinc or cadmium plated steel, a chromate conversion coating is 
used. But this is a paint adhesion issue, and as pointed out above, these have 
no effect on a high pressure connection.

- Basically, as far as the electrical interface is concerned, plating on the 
screw and the lockwasher is irrelevant. The interface is gas-tight. An unplated 
screw will look like hell after a while, but that is another issue. When 
tightened, the points of the lock washer will cut through ANY plating present 
and make a gas-tight interface, so your plating choice should be made based on 
galvanic compatibility issues, not electrical connection issues.


But all this above assumes that paint is masked under the screw/lockwasher 
interface. It is not a matter that with any paint system, and any reasonable 
sized screw/lockwasher (say, #6 or larger), there is no way that a good 
electrical connection cannot be made if the screw is fully tightened! And if 
the screw is NOT fully tightened, then you cannot guarantee a good connection, 
no matter what interface arrangement is used. It is simply that regulatory 
agencies are unlikely to accept this relatively obvious reality, and that they 
will insist that paint masking is needed. 


Bob Wilson 
TIR Systems Ltd. 
Vancouver. 


-Original Message-
From: Chris Wells [mailto:cdwe...@stargate.net] 
Sent: March 21, 2002 4:40 PM
To: 'emc-pstc'
Subject: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

Looking for some feedback on bonding various parts of a painted

Re: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-22 Thread John Woodgate

I read in !emc-pstc that Doug McKean dmck...@corp.auspex.com wrote (in
000b01c1d1ac$ba5b72e0$cb3e3...@corp.auspex.com) about 'chassis bonding
- star washers enough?', on Fri, 22 Mar 2002:

Thirdly, I've had some very serious discussions with 
some NRTL test engineers regarding external toothed 
star washers versus internal toothed start washers. 
It was *require* at one time for me to use internal 
toothed star washers to protect the integrity of the 
cutting action of the teeth to chassis. It was *suggested* 
at another time by another engineer to use external 
toothed star washers so that the integrity of the teeth 
could be easily inspected. 

Brilliant! Next: teeth both internal and external (I've seen some, but
they are very rare). And after that, quick-release bolts, so that the
washer can be easily taken off for microscopic inspection and
metallurgical tests. 
-- 
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only. http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk 
Interested in professional sound reinforcement and distribution? Then go to 
http://www.isce.org.uk
PLEASE do NOT copy news posts to me by E-MAIL!

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Re: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-22 Thread Doug McKean

The following is strictly my own opinion regarding star washers. 
Others here probably have lots more experience than I. 
The following is also regarding bare metal-to-metal 
contact only.  I always require masking off around the 
area where grounding is done. 

First, the only way the grounding integrity of whatever 
you end up doing can be checked as being sufficient 
is to check it with the ground current test. 

Second, the integrity of the ground is highly dpendent 
upon the torque imposed upon the the nut or screw 
used for securement.  Get a calibrated torque tool 
for the job. 

Thirdly, I've had some very serious discussions with 
some NRTL test engineers regarding external toothed 
star washers versus internal toothed start washers. 
It was *require* at one time for me to use internal 
toothed star washers to protect the integrity of the 
cutting action of the teeth to chassis. It was *suggested* 
at another time by another engineer to use external 
toothed star washers so that the integrity of the teeth 
could be easily inspected. 

My personal preferences are: 
1) use only metal-to-metal contact for any sort of ground, 
2) if in any doubt - test it. 

Regards, Doug McKean 



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RE: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-22 Thread Wan Juang Foo


I will not really trust the gripping action of star washers unless such
thing are custom made and fitted for their intended design.  In general
star washers tend to loosen their grip over time especially if the chassis
has to experience some form of vibrations.

This is an element of dogma...
Personally I would would expect to find from a cabinet of electronic
equipment running from a normal 50 Hz mains supply, a good Earth connection
made to the equipment metalwork using a corrosion-resistant technique and
situated close to where the mains lead enters the cabinet.
All equipment metalwork should be electrically bonded in a manner which
does not rely on 'hopeful' electrical conduction through anti-corrosive
treatment like anodised aluminium and paint.  Careful attention to the
assembly process have to be done to weed out things like ball-bearings
races, nylon runners and coasters, or other insulating materials.
Conduction through painted panels should not be dependent on the gripping
action of star washers.  The design should be such that no currents flows
in any part of the metal work.  The objective is to ensure that any part of
the metalwork can be relied upon as an effective electrostatic screen and
not the reverse, a radiator

regards
:-)
Tim Foo


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| |   owner-emc-pstc@majordo|
| |   mo.ieee.org   |
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| |   03/22/02 08:56 AM |
| |   Please respond to |
| |   Kazimier_Gawrzyjal|
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  |To:  cdwe...@stargate.net, emc-p...@ieee.org 
  |
  |cc:  (bcc: Wan Juang Foo/ece/staff/npnet)
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  |Subject: RE: chassis bonding - star washers enough?  
  |
  
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Chris,

Admittedly I'm not expert on materials or on grounding principles/issues
but the relevance of a rock solid bond to ground is usually beyond dispute.
In a previous life, I've found star washers had a varied level of
difficulty in penetrating painted materials ...it all depended on the type
of paint being used.  For example, the powder coat type of paint found
on numerous enclosures and frames is extremely durable and you might find
that star washers will barely make a dent much less provide a good bond
connection.  Due to the power levels involved we would make sure that bond
connections were masked off as opposed to relying on a star washer for
adequate bonding.  At times we found they were a point of failure when
conducting the Earthing test to the CSA C22.2 No. 0.4 standard as invoked
by the binatcould get them glow a nice shade of red.

I don't have them handy but I do recall reading some studies indicating
ground connections due to the use of star washers or the like were a likely
source of ignition under extreme transient eventsIEEE I think.


My personal opinion and not that of my employer.

Regards,
Kaz Gawrzyjal
Dell
-Original Message-
From: Chris Wells [mailto:cdwe...@stargate.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 6:40 PM
To: 'emc-pstc'
Subject: chassis bonding - star washers enough?

Looking for some feedback on bonding various parts of a painted metal
chassis together for safety and EMC performance issues.
I know we have a lot of experts out there on this topic and can remember a
number of threads on the topic.
Please help me pull it together:
  When screwing the cover on the base will star washers cut through
  paint, even epoxy paint and provide a reliable connection?
  Are there special versions of electrical star washers that work
  better than others?
  What about oxidation of the mating surface? I understand star washers
  can make a gas tight seal.
  Should there be a special treatment to the painted area where the
  screw/washer come together?
  Do PEM nuts act as a good mating mechanism for the screw?  There are
  many types are some better than others?  What about the self
  clenching types?
  One can get screws with captive washers.  Are there any issues with
  these?  Preferred Vendors and types?
  There are various chemical materials to keep screws from

chassis bonding - star washers enough?

2002-03-22 Thread Chris Wells
Looking for some feedback on bonding various parts of a painted metal chassis 
together for safety and EMC performance issues.
I know we have a lot of experts out there on this topic and can remember a 
number of threads on the topic.
Please help me pull it together:
  a.. When screwing the cover on the base will star washers cut through paint, 
even epoxy paint and provide a reliable connection? 
  b.. Are there special versions of electrical star washers that work better 
than others? 
  c.. What about oxidation of the mating surface? I understand star washers can 
make a gas tight seal. 
  d.. Should there be a special treatment to the painted area where the 
screw/washer come together? 
  e.. Do PEM nuts act as a good mating mechanism for the screw?  There are many 
types are some better than others?  What about the self clenching types? 
  f.. One can get screws with captive washers.  Are there any issues with 
these?  Preferred Vendors and types? 
  g.. There are various chemical materials to keep screws from backing out and 
are applied to the threads of a screw such as those from Loctite.  Do these 
interfere or help?  Are some formulas better than others? 
  h.. Under the paint if the base metal is steel are there any treatments or 
plating that help?  For Steel, for Aluminum? 
  i.. If the chassis is plated steel instead like zinc chromate yellow.  What 
changes? 
  j.. Proper plating on screw and star washer?  (assume painted steel)
Any advice on the topic welcome!
Thanks in advance!

Chris Wells
Senior Design Engineer
Cutler-Hammer
christopherdwe...@eaton.com